Clippings by jrzygrl_2006

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In the Laundry Room with Samsung

posted by: whirlpool_trainee on 05.20.2010 at 11:18 am in Laundry Room Forum

Samsung's largest washer - bigger than the current Electrolux washers.

SAMSUNG Launches New 2010 Home Appliance Line Up

Powerful, Quiet Cleaning With Smart Details That Lighten the Load

High Capacity Front-Loading Washer and Dryer (WF520 and DV520) offers a spacious 5.0 cu.ft. capacity to help moms get more wash done in less time. The WF520 also features the newly improved Vibration Reduction Technology Plus, which reduces rattling and noise, making it so quiet families hardly know theyre on and allowing them to put their laundry machines anywhere they prefer. Samsung helps eliminate the need for all those stain-treatment sticks with the new PowerFoam feature that pre-dissolves detergent into powerful foam for a more thorough washing. In addition, PureCycle alerts consumers with a gentle chime after 40 washes and allows consumers to clean their machine with the press of a button using hot water, not harsh chemicals. The WF520 are DV520 are both available in colors stainless platinum or white, and prices range from $1,599-$1,499 for the WF520 and $1,399-$1,549 for the DV520. See it.

There will also be new kitchen appliances. See the Appliance Forum.

Read all and discuss. :)


clipped on: 03.18.2011 at 06:03 pm    last updated on: 03.18.2011 at 06:07 pm

RE: BlueStar No. 24 (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cloud_swift on 02.28.2007 at 11:42 pm in Appliances Forum

wyorafter, here is what I did to adjust simmer on my Bluestar burners. You will need a fairly thin flat head screwdriver.

Pull off the burner knob. This can be difficult because they fit on tightly and are very smooth. Some people put double sided carpet tape on them. We just put blue painters tape on them - one loop extending out to make a longer grab space and some wraped around to give more traction and hold the loop on.

Turn the burner on and set as low as it will go. Turn the screw an 1/8 turn at a time to lower or raise the flame.

What I did was to turn it low to the point where the flame wouldn't stay on continuously. Then I turned it up until the flame stayed on well even when I created a bit of air movement by blowing softly or moving a pan.

Afterwards, I put a sauce pan on the burner with a couple of inches of water in it and a temperature probe and put the burner on low. It got up to about 160 or 170 degrees depending on the burner.

Did the tech do anything like that to adjust your burners? There is another adjustment for flame looseness or yellow tips but that wouldn't help with simmer being too high.

I don't think you should do anything to try to clean the burners. Igniters are sensitive things. I'll give them a little wipe staying away from the igniter if anything lands on them but other than that I just let them burn off any grease.


How to adjust the flame on Bluestar Range
clipped on: 05.11.2007 at 06:46 am    last updated on: 05.11.2007 at 06:47 am

RE: Does Anyone Have 42 Inch Wide Drawers?? Too Big?!?! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cloud_swift on 05.02.2007 at 01:14 am in Kitchens Forum

We have some 36" drawers which are great and fairly common - especially for pots and pans. I don't think I've ever seen 42" ones but it is only 6" more so they should be okay. You will probably want to put some dividers to organize the interior space.

Is the counter top installed yet? If it isn't and you really want a change you could order two 21" drawer stacks or an 18" and a 24". Or you could do a 36" and a 12" wide cabinet for tray storage and cutting boards or oils and such pullout. If the counter is in, I think it would be pretty hard to change.


clipped on: 05.02.2007 at 11:45 am    last updated on: 05.02.2007 at 11:45 am

Answering your post (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.16.2007 at 10:37 am in Bathrooms Forum

so I should just use hardibacker for the ceiling?


The weight makes me nervious (there is no "approved" way to attach it to a ceiling)

Actually, there is. if you've got standard framing (16" on center) in your ceiling, you want to put some kind of strapping across the joists, spaced at 12" on center, either attached to the bottom of the joists, or in your case, being that the ceiling is low to begin with, install the strapping in the bays between the joists. Then screw or nail the hardiboard with no more than 8" between the screws going down each length of strapping.


framing for ceiling tile
clipped on: 04.26.2007 at 08:35 am    last updated on: 04.26.2007 at 08:36 am

RE: shower ceiling (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.16.2007 at 09:38 am in Bathrooms Forum

You should be fine with either the 6x6 or the 4x4. As for the can lights, it all depends on the lights you've got. Some have trim rings adjustable enough where the 3/8" or so thickness of the tile won't make a difference. Others, it will. As for the wall board to use, if you're going to do tile, you might as well use the cement board, and have it meet the sheerock ceiling under where the bullnose will be, unless this is a soffit (the ceiling goes up outside the shower), in which case, cement board the whole thing under the tile.

Now, for the big question-- how do you do the ceiling and walls, without pulling your hair out, trying to line up the joints? Simple-- tile the ceiling diagonally. :-)

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


How to prep and tile a ceiling
clipped on: 04.26.2007 at 08:34 am    last updated on: 04.26.2007 at 08:35 am

RE: No grout lines on shower wall tiles? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.01.2006 at 07:51 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Bill, don't you just get to a point where you *laugh* at some of the things you hear our tile guys saying?

Not at stuff like this. It's jerks like this that are the sole reason I spend so much time on line. Information and knowledge is a powerful thing. I figure if I arm as many homeowners as I can with it, it's going to put alot of jerks like this out of business. In addition, it'll raise the bar for those who DO try their best to give a good job, and as a result, people will be willing to pay for the time it takes to do an installation that'll last a lifetime, rather than trying to nickel and dime their installers into cutting corners.

I don't understand these "no groutlines" people. They think that avoiding grout is solving some kind of problem. Don't they realize that with tile there has to be some kind of line? The question is do you fill it with grout, or soap scum, dead skin and other cr*p?

In a million years, I couldn't have said it any better. Kudos, terriks!

Conversely, you could easily find some guidelines at the --oh, Bill, what is the name of the professional organization, and its website?

TCNA (Tile Counsil of North America)-- website's below. You can order either the CD or hardcopy of the TCNA Handbook

Nevermind all the other issues which have been discussed before this, concerning no grout lines (this situation has never come up, because it goes against ALL common sense), having no grout lines in a shower presents an especially destructive problem. Although tile and grout are not waterproof, when combined to give a single plane solid unit, they do a great job of SHEDDING water. In other words, water will travel right down the face of the wall to the shower pan, where it can go down the drain, because you have a solid surface-- a nice easy path for the water to take. Now, if you remove the grout, and just butt the tiles together, you're going to have at least a small gap there that's empty, and the water, as it rolls down the wall, it's going to fill that space. What happens then is the cement board behind the joint will soak that water up like a sponge, and then your problems begin. Between keeping the cement board wet alot longer than it should be and all kinds of organic material getting carried behind the tile and then caught up there, it's a perfect breeding ground for mold, mildew, and all KINDS of bacteria. This is such a bad idea that I can't believe anyone EVER would have actually contemplated it!!

Here is a link that might be useful: TCNA website


Grout lines in showers
clipped on: 04.25.2007 at 07:24 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2007 at 07:24 pm

RE: Steam Shower - Cost? Worth it? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: formulaross on 03.06.2007 at 11:08 am in Bathrooms Forum

We put in a steam shower in our new home, I was the plumber and electrician on the entire home. The $1126 above is reasonable for the steam unit, there are several brands that can be had for about that amount and they all seem to be of the same quality. You can also spend more. The size of the steam shower (area and type of walls, etc) determines the size unit you need, so pricing can be affected that way.

You will need steam doors on the shower that seal completely; I don't see that in the pricing above. Our steam shower is a 5' Kohler Sonata acrylic fiberglass unit so we used the Senza doors as well ($850 or so).

If you're an experienced DIYer, the steam unit install, both plumbing and electrical is easy and straightforward. The $645 and $500 above for the plumbing and electrical install is IMO over double what the amount of work should be worth.


Install prices too high?
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 09:22 am

RE: Steam Shower - Cost? Worth it? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: annkathryn on 03.05.2007 at 11:02 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Funny you should ask as I've just signed a contract with my GC. He's doing the entire master bath - the demo happened last week and the bath is currently down to the studs. The plumber came today to add the pipes to the steam shower. Here's what the steam unit cost us:

Mr. Steam Steambaths: Stainless Steel Steambath Generator - MS 225T $843.53 1
Mr. Steam Steambaths: AutoFlush - MS 81500 $200.33
Mr. Steam Steambaths: Tempo In-Shower Control w/ matching AromaSteam Steamhead - MS TEMPO
Polished Chrome $180.23
Sub-Total: $1,224.09
Discount: ($97.91)
Sales Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $0.00

Order Total: $1,126.18
My GC is charging $645 for the plumbing and $500 for electrical (need to install new circuit breaker). This doesn't include the tile, shower glass, larger fan, etc.

Is it worth it? I think it will be! I've wanted a steam shower forever, and have even tossed out the tub to get one (well, not literally - Habitat for Humanity's ReStore is coming to pick it up).



Cost of a Steam Shower
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 09:18 am    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 09:18 am

RE: do you like pedastal sinks? I'm ripping out Powder room (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: fnmroberts on 04.02.2007 at 08:55 am in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks for the compliment. We all appreciate them.

OK, the vanity is made by DecoLav and I believe Lowes does carry some of their items. The vessel is too. Purchased ours at Great Indoors.

But, the vanity came with a granite top and a vessel, not separate. We did not like the vessel and needed to have a new granite top made to accomplish what you see.

In our room, the door swing came too close to the edge of the stone, so we had a local stone shop cut a new counter slightly smaller. And, the drawer is a "U" shape to clear the plumbing. I shortened one side of the drawer so that the faucet could be installed at 2:00 and a larger vessel installed further back. Only oversight is that I should have made the backspash about 3/4" higher - I forgot to account for the height of the mounting ring. Small matter.

Hope this helps.


This post goes with the pics I have saved in outlook
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 08:57 am

RE: Acrylic or cast iron tub? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: stw954 on 02.01.2007 at 08:08 am in Bathrooms Forum

For what it is worth, my install manual said I had a choice of mortar bed or foam. When I called Bain Ultra, a company rep said they were going to remove the foam option from the manual because people were using the foam you buy at a hardware store and that stuff is not "structural" (their word). He said the professional foam is, but not the hardware stuff. That is why we opted for mortar.

He also recommended putting plastic down under the mortar bed and then over it before setting the tub, so that you can get the tub up with less hassle when you need to in the future. (Considering we had to do exactly that when the tub was framed incorrectly, I recommend this extra step. I cannot imagine what we would have had to do if that plastic hadn't been there to facilitate removal.)


recommendation for tub install
clipped on: 04.21.2007 at 08:42 am    last updated on: 04.21.2007 at 08:43 am

RE: New advantium 240: August 2007 (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: malhgold on 03.24.2007 at 12:15 pm in Appliances Forum

I too can't decide between a micro and the Advantium. Hate the fact that the Advantium has to be installed above counter level and all the different "trays" that need to be changed depending on what you're doing. Might just go for a KA micro that has a drop down door and put it in the island. I've lived without one for this long....


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:52 pm

RE: New advantium 240: August 2007 (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: solarpowered on 03.23.2007 at 03:24 pm in Appliances Forum

A few years ago there was a company named "Osborne", that made portable computers. They were in the process of developing a new model that was much better than their existing model. They announced to the press that it was coming. Virtually all potential customers decided to wait for the new model. The sudden cessation of sales drove this formerly high-flying company out of business. Thus was born the verb, "to Osborne yourself."

The moral of this story is, "Don't tell your sales folks about new products until you're ready to start taking orders; otherwise, you risk destroying sales of the existing product."

Thus, I don't find the fact that the salespeople don't know anything about a new Advantium 240 to be particularly meaningful information. It could mean that there's nothing in the pipe. Or it could mean that they just haven't been told yet.

My perception is that an Advantium that combines the features of the 120 with the power of the 240 would be a dynamite product, so much so that people would wait instead of buying the current models. So it makes sense to me that GE would embargo the announcement until they are actually ready to start shipping.

On the other hand, we're already pretty close to August, so you'd think they would be about ready to announce. Or, perhaps August is when they're plannning to announce, with shipping to commence a few months later.

Well, I guess we'll find out in August. Unless someone can ferret something out sooner. :-)


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:48 pm

RE: Which Advantium should I get?? The 120 or the 240? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: needanap on 02.25.2007 at 08:17 pm in Appliances Forum

I just want to mention for anyone thinking about an advantium, to plan for a drawer or cabinet nearby to keep all the accessories handy. You have to switch from the glass to the metal tray to go from microwave only to speed cook, and there is also a special rack and another tray that must be used for toast/broil settings. It is a bit of a pain to switch back and forth, and I imagine if you have the various trays stored on the other side of the kitchen, you might not use it as much. At least this is true with my built-in 120. I assume the other models have similar accessories, but please correct me if I am wrong.


cabinet for accessories from Advantium built closeby.
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:21 pm

RE: Which Advantium should I get?? The 120 or the 240? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: kteach on 11.07.2006 at 08:47 am in Appliances Forum

Thanks everybody. I did get to the yahoo Advantium site. They were very clear in the preference for 240 over the 120. Most of the "wouldn't do it again" comments came from the 120 owners- although plenty of people loved the 120 as well. So, my final flip-flop (I hope!) and I'm going with the 240- more expensive and I'll lose a little cabinet space, but it sounds like it will do what I want it to do and for the cost, I don't want to end up with an applicance that I don't like.
So, thanks- One decision down- 312 to go! :)


clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:13 pm

RE: Which Advantium should I get?? The 120 or the 240? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 11.06.2006 at 09:56 pm in Appliances Forum

Don't wire or both 120 and 240; just run a #10/3 + gd wire-- the electrician can "heat it up" at either voltage that way. You can even put in a range there someday if you rearrange the kitchen.


Or should I do this when I install my Advantium?
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:12 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:12 pm

RE: Which Advantium should I get?? The 120 or the 240? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mart242 on 11.06.2006 at 12:45 pm in Appliances Forum

Kteach, whatever you do make sure you wire for both 120 and 240. That way down the road you'll have more options.


this post refers to the Monogram Advantium 120 and 240
clipped on: 04.05.2007 at 11:10 pm    last updated on: 04.05.2007 at 11:10 pm

RE: what is your brand and model of kitchen faucet?? (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: midwestmom on 03.23.2007 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a Grohe Ladylux Cafe. I don't like the reach on it. The water doesn't come out far enough into the sink. We had to mount our with the handle facing forwards after being assured it would work with it on the side.


interesting opinions on this faucet - see saved comments
clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 09:14 pm

RE: what is your brand and model of kitchen faucet?? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: lovingwdw on 03.18.2007 at 09:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Brizo Floriano. We chose it because it fit nicely under full height cabinets, when most arc-pull down faucets wouldn't. It is working out even better than hoped, we love it!


clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 09:12 pm

RE: what is your brand and model of kitchen faucet?? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: lkremodel on 03.17.2007 at 08:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Grohe Ladylux Plus for me. I picked this after reading 6 months of faucet discussion on this forum. Then, at our local high end plumbing store, I saw it in person. Salesperson said the engineering was superb and no problems with the the pullout returning to right place. He also said all their employees had Grohe kitchen faucets. (They sold quite a few brands). I orderred it from internet and saved quite a bit of money. Can't wait for it to be installed.


clipped on: 04.04.2007 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2007 at 09:05 pm

RE: Bluestar Scorched Stainless Steel Backguard (Follow-Up #61)

posted by: rococogurl on 08.05.2006 at 10:35 am in Appliances Forum

Here's a pro range installation by Mick DiGiulio, who's a top KD in Chicago. I think it's really smart. Note the stainless lengths of counter to each side of the range, the niche, and the offset cabinets.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's a Clive Christian install on an Aga, another smart way to go IMO. The niche has the tile liner and perhaps you can see the range is on a low plinth.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

There are no musts here and no need to change selections. As someone said, the ranges are approved for home use.

All I'm urging is caution and good sense -- nothing flammable too low, too tight into/over the burners. Stainless can be used for good measure.

I feel both these kitchens are good examples of the right ways to go with powerful ranges.


clipped on: 03.28.2007 at 06:24 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2007 at 06:24 pm

RE: Bluestar Scorched Stainless Steel Backguard (Follow-Up #54)

posted by: cloud_swift on 08.04.2006 at 06:21 pm in Appliances Forum

I doubt that there is a significant difference in the clearance to combustables that is needed for two 17500 BTU burners vs one 22K and one 15 K BTU burner. The specs on the DCS range are consistant with this. It shows a clearance for combustables of 12" to each side and 36" above the range. It also shows that uppers to the side of the range should be 18" up from the range surface and a maximum of 13" deep.

That is the same as what I read for Bluestar except that Bluestar says the clearance for combustable side walls is 6" rather than 12".

On uppers to the side of the range/cooktop, the Bluestar manual says
"Wall cabinets to the side(s) of the shelf/flue riser must be a minimum of 18" above the counter.
Wall cabinets above the unit must be minimum of 36" above the unit top cooking surface for the full width of the unit. The maximum depth of wall cabinets must be minimum 13"."

So the clearance of 36" above appears to apply only to directly above and uppers to the side can be 18" above though I think I would be more comfortable with a few inches clearance. That would be more because I would be concerned in case of some unusual occurance like grease catching fire - not because the burner would shoot flame up so BTU output of the burner doesn't enter into it.


Clearances/Installation notes for Bluestar
clipped on: 03.28.2007 at 06:19 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2007 at 06:20 pm

RE: Bluestar Scorched Stainless Steel Backguard (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: cloud_swift on 08.02.2006 at 12:17 pm in Appliances Forum

The Bluestar installation manual is pretty clear about the clearances needed for side walls above the range and for upper cabinets. The diagram shows 6" clearance for side walls and uppers a minimum of 36" above the range.

It also has the following statement which isn't quite clear to my DH and I:
Note: If the island trim option is used without the 6" clearance recommended, a non-combustible rear wall extending a minimum of 6" below the countertop must be used. In no cases will we accept responsibility for claims which may result from heat damage to a rear wall or counter, including cosmetic damage. It is the responsibility of the owner/end user to ensure that the material used in such applications is not only non-combustible, but is also truly heat resistant.

The confusing thing is that we can't find any
'6" clearance recommended' for the island trim. I think what they mean is that the 6" clearance for the side walls is also recommended for clearance to a back wall if you use the island trim and if you don't have that clearance you the non-conbustable back wall should extend down 6" below the countertop.


be sure to check with Tony and David on this
clipped on: 03.28.2007 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2007 at 05:52 pm

RE: hardwood vs. tile in kitchen (Follow-Up #46)

posted by: bill_vincent on 09.07.2006 at 05:01 pm in Flooring Forum

Something like this?

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

As for the color of the slate, it sounds very much like either Indian or Chinese slate. Lots of reds yellows, and some blues and greens?


clipped on: 03.13.2007 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2007 at 05:20 pm

RE: Dishwasher/Dishdrawer Dilemma (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: coastsider on 10.08.2006 at 03:29 am in Appliances Forum

Planning a house remodel, which will take a couple years w/plans, approvals, etc. & who knows how long to finish... In future kitchen plan to have FP DDs, one on each side of sink. Found DD threads on this site very useful. FWIW, I do not want 2 DD stacked because the 2nd drawer would be very low, unless you raised it above the counter.

For now, replacing appliances in current kitchen. Getting the Bosch SHX57CO, like the top rack only feature and the buttons in the top of the door, one of the differences btwn the SHX and the SHU. Here's the other differences.
SHX: 46 db, premium lower rack, 5 wash cycles--power scrub plus (161 deg), regular wash (140), auto wash Sensotronic (120/135), quick wash (104), rinse & hold, and a presoak option.
SHU: 48 db, mid lower rack, 6 wash cycles--doesn't have auto wash, add scrub wash (150) and delicate/economy wash (120), and an optimizer option.
For a better understanding of what the features mean go to the Bosch web site ($100 rebate through 12/31).
Basically, the 2 Bosch DWs do the same thing in a slightly different way. It all comes down to personal preference.
Good luck!


clipped on: 11.21.2006 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 11.21.2006 at 11:44 am