Clippings by jordanz

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RE: Yard completely overgrown with weeds, how can I remove that a (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: chessiegw on 09.23.2010 at 12:13 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Go stock up on some Roundup. You're gonna need it! I expect at least a couple of applications...and don't wait too long - it won't work very well after it cools down. Might be too late to seed this year...but you can definitely get started with some beds. Anywhere that you have those bare spots would probably be a great place to grow some shade-loving plants. You have a lot of work to do - good luck!


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clipped on: 09.23.2010 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2010 at 02:42 pm

RE: Another General Green Bean/Pea Question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bsntech on 09.23.2010 at 02:12 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Good information. Think I'll try spacing peas at 2 inches apart next year; hopefully the summer will not set in as quickly next year.

Surprised that jordanz only gets 8-10 pods per plant. That is probably close to what I got this year with the hot weather that kicked in early (not including probably one pod per plant for seed saving). Last year with the Dwarf Gray Sugar peas, they were fully loaded and I barely could keep up. About 13 pounds total amongst 100 plants I believe.

Based on two-inch spacing, I should be able to get about 282 plants (about 47 feet).

Concerned about putting them that close for this reason - ease of being able to work your hands through the vines to get at the pods.


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clipped on: 09.23.2010 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2010 at 02:36 pm

RE: Any chance I might get actual bananas this year (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: barbados on 09.22.2010 at 01:06 pm in Banana Forum

Living where I do (Caribbean isl. of Barbados) we have no problem with cold winter conditions.

Even so I've been growing banana plants in my back yard now for a little over a year
but no fruit yet.

I read somewhere that bananas bring forth 44 leaves, and then the fruit.
To that end, I've numbered the first few leaves of a few pups I now have growing out from the base of now-adult trees
(who will hopefully soon be doing something!).
Ever the mad scientist, I'd like to keep on numbering, as long as I can reach that high up -LOL!
Black marking pen numerals seems to stay put thru all kinds of weather,down here.


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clipped on: 09.23.2010 at 10:58 am    last updated on: 09.23.2010 at 10:59 am

New seeds

posted by: dmoore66 on 09.20.2010 at 12:37 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I overseeded with perennial ryegrass and kbg about 3-4 weeks ago and fertilized with Scotts Turfbuilder about 5 weeks ago.
I am having excellent germination, but the grass grows about 1/4 to 1/2" and seems to be sitting there.
I have been watering every day.
Do you tbhink I should give my lawn another shot of fertilize?
If so, starter or lesco professional?

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clipped on: 09.21.2010 at 01:42 pm    last updated on: 09.21.2010 at 01:48 pm

What do I need to do with my Pumpkins?

posted by: jordanz on 09.17.2010 at 02:53 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I live in the Mojave Desert, gets up to 110 in the summer, but right now it's 90 everyday, gradully going down. I planted about 30 pumpkin seeds in June (small decorative variety / and 10-15lb carving variety), and they've been growing great. Vines are growing several inches per day, and leaves are getting huge. They get water with a soaker hose every day almost. They get 5 hours of full sun, with a little bit of shade cloth as well.

The just barely started to produce flowers, 2-3 every morning. They open up in the morning, but by the evening the flowers close up. Is there something I need to do with the flowers in order to get pumkins to produce? It's just flowers coming from the stems, I don't see any small pumkins or anything yet. Do I need to hand fertilize the flowers?

I've been burrying the vines as the grow, I hear it helps them grow stronger. Should I continue to do this? How often should I fertilize with Miracle Grow, once per week? I just want to have a bunch of pumpkins to show off! Thanks.

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clipped on: 09.17.2010 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2010 at 02:57 pm

What 'er zone 9 gardeners doing now?

posted by: kabuti on 09.16.2010 at 07:39 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Wondering what other zone-9'ers got going this time of year. We scraped out the rotten 250 tomato plants, & the 'new' garden which was full of weeds. Commenced fall planting in August, collards, brocc, rutabagas, beets, onions, lettuce & pea, along with late potato, beans, cuke & squash. Some potato coming up slowly, cuke no good, squash no good though. Brassicas doing well. Weeds doing well. We know we RULE!

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clipped on: 09.17.2010 at 02:46 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2010 at 02:53 pm

What to do with my Dwarf Banana plant?

posted by: jordanz on 09.17.2010 at 02:37 pm in Banana Forum

I live in the mojave desert, gets up to 110 in the summer, and freezes over winter. I planted a dward banana plant in a 2-3 gallon pot (the plant was only 4" tall when I planted in May, and it's now almost 1.5' tall). I keep it mostly shaded due to the harsh sun (now it's in full sun since it's only 85 deg. out now).

What should I do over winter, bring it inside? When will I need to upgrade to a bigger pot? When can I expect to get fruit out of it? Is it true you have to fertilize nearly every week for banana plants in order to get fruit? Any help would be appreciated. I got it for free, and didn't expect it to live, but it's done great so far!

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clipped on: 09.17.2010 at 02:38 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2010 at 02:39 pm

What grows in the Mojave Desert (Kern County)?

posted by: jordanz on 09.17.2010 at 02:34 pm in California Gardening Forum

I'm somewhat new the Mojave desert, moved here a couple years ago and have tried experimenting with several flowers/trees for our yard. I live a half hour north of Edwards AFB, 10 minutes away from the city of Mojave. What type of trees, bushes, and flowers grow good here?

I'm a newbie gardener, so any info would be great. I'm not a fan of desert landscaping or too many cactus'. We've had good luck with 2 palm trees that are growing like crazy, but I want some good leafy drougt-tolerant trees that can withstand full 110 sun in the summer, and only need watered once a week or so (like my palm trees).

We've also had good luck growing peter pan grass, and several types of annual flowers (can't rememeber the names, one starts with a 'V')...but those are on soaker hoses each morning. Any flowers or trees that grow great in the desert with only watering 1-2 times per week?

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clipped on: 09.17.2010 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2010 at 02:37 pm

RE: Lawn colorant or dye (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: catheemivelaz on 09.16.2010 at 03:26 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Dchall -
I live in Aliso Viejo, CA. As you probably know, it's approx. 6 miles from Laguna Beach. We have a lot of humidity but still can have some warm summers. Pretty tepid winters.

We water with sprinklers morning and evening.
We have such a small area (150 square feet) that my husband mows with a hand mower.
As for fertilizing, I think my husband does that every 3 or more months, and yes, we do spray for weeds, etc.

Now, most importantly, we live right next door (with open slate fence) to a large park. It's beautiful, obviously, but a pain in the neck because a lot of other grasses get into our yard via wind/birds, whatever, so we have probably every grass type in the book.

We've laid marathon sod, seeded with marathon, seeded with winter rye, summer rye, patch perfect, etc, etc.

In the past 3 1/2 years, it's never stayed green completely for more than a month. We've tried EVERYTHING, and it's sooo expensive, that we've toyed with the idea of artificial grass, but that's expensive, too.

I've told my husband that if the last seeding (partial growth so far) isn't totally successful, I want to seed it with dichondra and pray it takes over! DH thinks the other grasses would take over the dichondra eventually, even if he kills the current grass and digs down to remove everything...(he did that less than a year ago, placed marathon sod on it and it was beautiful for approx 1 month..seriously)and it then got about 20 burned spots, and in that small of an area, you can imagine what it looks like! OH, also our dogs pee in the park! Honest!

SO good luck and thank you for trying to help me! ANY advice would help, but honestly, I think we've done everything we can!
Cathee
P.S. Most of the year, half of the lawn has full sun and half has full shade. Maybe we should plant each side with a different grass! HA!


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clipped on: 09.17.2010 at 02:25 pm    last updated on: 09.17.2010 at 02:27 pm

Covering Newly Planted Grass Seed

posted by: lmavko on 09.15.2010 at 10:02 am in Lawn Care Forum

I'm reseeding my entire front lawn in central Ohio. I have killed all the old grass and am in the process of raking/digging it completely out from the dead roots. I will spread 1/2 - 1 inch of topsoil (60% pulverized soil, 20% sand, 20% comtil) then plant and lightly roll. Do I need to cover with straw or peat moss if I keep it moist. Will the birds take the seed if I do not cover the seed? Is there any advantages of peatmoss over straw? Thanks!

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clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 03:15 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 03:16 pm

Cutting lawn short for overseeding...too much too soon?

posted by: spup345 on 09.16.2010 at 10:01 am in Lawn Care Forum

I just cut down my grass from around 5" down to 3" yesterday because I'm going to overseed and want it short so the sun can reach the seeds. Since it should rain tonight/tomorrow morning, I decided I'll rent an aerator tomorrow morning to take advantage of the wet soil and get the process started (not supposed to rain for the next week). That means I need to cut my grass 1 more time today to get it nice & low in preparation for the aeration/overseeding. So that's 2 cuts in 2 days....

I plan to cut in a perpendicular direction to yesterday & I know the 1/3 rule, but I have 2 questions:

1. How low should I set my mower for the final cut, is 1.5" too low? 2" good enough?

2. In an ideal situation, how long are you supposed to wait between cuts when preparing to overseed? Is back-to-back days "ok" so you don't traumatize the grass?

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clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 03:15 pm

RE: Applying Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: billl on 09.16.2010 at 01:06 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Well, you have used a preemergent before - that is what Halts is. It lasts 2-3 months depending on the weather. Heat and moisture break it down quicker.

When to apply depends entirely on the type of weeds you are trying to prevent. For instance, crabgrass won't germinate in cold temps, so you should apply the preemergent right before it starts to warm up in spring. Some weeds germinate in fall and just stay tiny all winter before really starting to grow in early spring.


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clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 03:10 pm

What type of grass overtaking KBG?

posted by: djs555 on 09.16.2010 at 01:36 pm in Lawn Care Forum

We have an area of our lawn that has bright, green grass patches overtaking our KBG. I asked our lawncare company about it because it looks awful, and we're fussy about our lawn. They said it was fescue taking over the KBG, and that fescue is a noxious grass and will eventually spread everywhere. We had fescue in Albuquerque for it's stamina and for children playing on it. But I read somewhere else on this forum that it is usually the KBG that takes over - not fescue. Could this be another grass and not fescue? Again, it is a very bright, green (almost limey) color and spreading quickly. This area is moist due to a shoreline. Whatever it is, what would be the best way to get rid of it and ensure it doesn't come up or spread anymore? The lawncare company said there isn't any killer designed just for fescue. Now would be a great time of the year to embark on this project. Thank you!

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clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 03:10 pm

RE: Watering new seeding (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: billl on 09.16.2010 at 01:15 pm in Lawn Care Forum

"Did I waste my time and very expensive seed? "

With your current plan, you haven't wasted your time and money, but you haven't optimized it either. The closer you are to the ideal conditions, the better germination rates you will get. Watering once a day is OK. Watering twice a day is better. Watering 3 times a day is about ideal.

Just a note on first mowing: I wouldn't wait until it is 4" tall. Earlier mowing encourages lateral growth and will help the lawn fill in faster. I'd start around 2" and then work your way up just like you do watering.


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clipped on: 09.16.2010 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 09.16.2010 at 03:09 pm

Fertilizer AND starter fertilize?

posted by: spup345 on 09.15.2010 at 07:28 am in Lawn Care Forum

I'm renting an aerator this weekend. Will also get PH checked today. Going to aerate and then lime if needed and then overseed with turf-type tall fescue (as well as seed a large dead patch thanks to the summer heat), and then fertilize.

I was only planning on a normal fall fertilizer (greenview's version which is 3/5 slow release 30-0-12).

Since I am seeding a dead area & overseeding the rest of the lawn, do I need to starter fertilize in addition to the fall fertilizer? Or is the fall fertilizer enough to cover all bases?

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clipped on: 09.15.2010 at 11:04 am    last updated on: 09.15.2010 at 11:05 am

Germination times

posted by: bluebars on 09.08.2010 at 07:27 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I wish the companies that sell seed in packets would add germination times. On 8/22, I planted 5 different kinds of lettuce. They have not dried out, but it has been really hot weather since.
Only 2 plants germinated (Black-seeded Simpson). Those 2 plants were about 1/4 inch tall yesterday morning. Unfortunately, by 5PM they both completely disappeared. Just GONE! Other lettuce types have not germinated. Maybe I planted them too deeply? Maybe it's not too late to try again?
Since I'm not sure of germination times, how long should I wait?
Radishes, carrots, are up and growing. Peas did not all germinate either, only a handful. Spinach, less than half germinated.
BlueBars

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clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:33 pm

Watering needs for veggies

posted by: jbrickm on 09.10.2010 at 01:03 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I installed drip irrigation for my veggies in 10-gallon containers. To this day I have not been able to figure out the optimal watering schedule. It is clear that bigger plants need more and plants in bloom or during fruting need more frequent watering sometimes, but is there any rule of thumb?

For ecample, I have some tomatoes that are in 10 gallon pots and are 8 feet tall. How much water do they need per day?

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clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:29 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:29 pm

carrots

posted by: brer on 09.10.2010 at 04:57 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I just picked a carrot, and it isn't sweet at all. What did I do wrong? Is there anything I can do now?

Thanks

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clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:28 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:29 pm

how to prepare existing bed for fall planting

posted by: ladybugsmom192 on 09.13.2010 at 09:18 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

hey all!

i'm wondering what i need to do to get my soil ready for fall planting, and how long it will take. what should i add to the soil, if anything? and when should i do fall planting (carrots, green fillet beans, lettuce, broccoli, cabbage)? yes, i'm a newbie, so lets get that outta the way now, lol! i'm in the SF East Bay Area

i have 2 3ftx3ftx16inches deep raised beds that were filled 100% organic compost, and had a pretty decent first planting of broccoli, cabbage, and zukes/yellow straight necks. my bell peps and tomatoes (romas, yellow pear, and sweet 100) are only just now ripening though. everything was planted the week of may 5th. no infestations or diseases.

i pulled the broccoli and cabbage about 3 weeks ago, which leaves me an empty bed, and am about to pull the zukes as well in the other bed, which will leave me with tomatoes and bell peps.

so what should i do, or be adding to the previously used soil to get it ready? i plan to plant more broccoli, cabbage (in same bed); carrots, lettuce, and maybe green fillet beans (i have 3 other big wine barrels too).

thanks everyone!

angela :)

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clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:23 pm

RE: Core aerating and overseeding (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dmoore66 on 09.14.2010 at 11:58 am in Lawn Care Forum

You have a big project, and it would have been better if you started a few weeks ago.
Don't know what your entire lawn looks like so cannot advise whether to do just the brown spots or overseed the whole lawn.
I would aerate, seed and fertilize the same day; as soon as possible.
The most important step is to keep the seed moist for a few weeks.
You may want to do the worse half this fall and the other half next spring or fall.
It depends how much time you have to devote to your lawn.
I never top dress but I am retired and can keep the soil moist all the time.
I am in the second week of renovating about 12,000 sq ft.
It is very time consuming to keep every thing moist if it is sunny and breezy every day.


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clipped on: 09.14.2010 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2010 at 12:12 pm

What to do first?

posted by: scottycam1 on 09.10.2010 at 08:00 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Hey Guys,

I've been lurking for a while and need some help. We just bought a house and th lawn needs work. Here are the issues.

Patchy areas (dirt) in the lawn
Compacted soil
Very bumpy soil, with some settled earth (mini ditches here and there)

So, I'm looking to level the yard, or rather, get rid of the bumpiness and fill in the basketball sized sinkholes.

I was thinking of aerating it first wanted to get some ideas. I'm a systematic person so I was looking for some steps. This is what I was thinking. Can you help?

1. Aerate
2. Put down topsoil/sand mixture (found the recipe on the internet)
3. Put down seed to over seed.

Does that sound ok to do? I'd like to get it done this weekend.

Thanks Everyone!

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clipped on: 09.13.2010 at 12:30 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2010 at 12:31 pm

RE: Aeration Question (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ms01634 on 09.12.2010 at 09:03 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I would water the soil, and aerate not just because you want to aerate, but if you just apply seed to a dry, hard surdace, you will lose it all to runnoff when it does finally rain. Will you be core aerating? I just redid my lawn yesterday. I rented a power rake and went over my lawn twice, cleaning up in between. removed seven bags of dead thatch from 1800 sq. feet. I then cut it short, and watered for 30 minutes. After that I aerated with a tractor pulled spike aerator. went over it about 10 times and then applied seed and fertilizer. I would HIGHLY recomment this method it was awesome. I cant wait to see the results. Good Luck


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clipped on: 09.13.2010 at 12:25 pm    last updated on: 09.13.2010 at 12:26 pm

spreading compost/mulch vs. organic fertilizer

posted by: andrew.h on 09.04.2010 at 01:25 am in Lawn Care Forum

I'm looking to improve the soil after I areate. Should I plan to rake in an enriched soil/compost or spread organic fertilizer?
I think the previous owner spent years cutting the grass too short and bagging the clippings. The ground is very hard and seems like it needs nutrients although the grass does show signs of life.
I'm in the Pacific NW

Thanks!

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clipped on: 09.07.2010 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2010 at 01:14 pm

When to Aereate and then fertilize

posted by: dinosaur1 on 09.05.2010 at 12:11 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I live close to Milwaukee, WI

I wanted to know when is the best time I should aereate and then fertilize my lawn? Can I do it now? Or wait until 9-22 which is the start of fall? We just had a nice rain storm 2 days ago so the lawn is nice and wet. Temps 1 week ago were hot in the 80's, last 2 days highs were in the 60's and from the looks of it temps will be staying in the 70's moving forward.

Let me know, thanks!

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clipped on: 09.07.2010 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2010 at 01:14 pm

Schedule to Fertilize, Seed, and Aerate this Fall?

posted by: jordanz on 09.02.2010 at 04:22 pm in Lawn Care Forum

So I live in the Mojave desert, we get up to 110 in the summer, but lately it's been in the 90's and gradually going down in temps. Our first frost date is usually around mid-November. Winter's are very mild, we freeze overnight for about a month, but only get snow 1 or 2 days out of the year. I seeded from scratch in May Tall Fescue and then threw in some Bermuda a couple months later to fill in the bare spots. It's done pretty good so far...the only fertilizer I've given it was some Scott's starter fertilizer when I seeded in May.

I'm wondering what the schedule of things is that I need to do now or this fall. I need to aerate, because we have super hard clay soil. Some areas have grass have started to die off because I probably didn't soften the soil deeper than a couple inches and they've reached the hard concrete-like layer. I also have some Scott's lawn fertilizer that I need to lay down. And I want to seed Tall fescue (which should live through the winter correct?) and Bermuda (can I seed that now, or what till spring?).

What order should I do things? I hear Labor day weekend is when most people fertilize, should I do it then? I was thinking seed and then fertilize (and water it in) in the same day. Then maybe wait a couple weeks and aerate...does that sound good? This is my first lawn, so I'm not sure when to do things, and what time of year to do them.

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clipped on: 09.03.2010 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2010 at 01:01 pm

RE: Pumpkin question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bejay9_10 on 09.02.2010 at 02:03 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Our area isn't the greatest for growing pumpkins or squash, especially if the weather is cool and damp - which is what I have had a lot of this year.

However, inspite of that, I managed to get quite a few that are edible, though the vines have become very mildewed.

I usually leave the pumpkins and squash on the vine until the small tendril next to the top stem becomes very dry. Then I pick it and leave it in the sun for a week or so. Until they are very dry.

The easiest way to preserve them is to find a cool, dry place until they show signs of becoming soft. Usually, however, I split them, cook them in the oven - cut side down in about a half inch of water - placing foil over the top to steam. When they are soft, I scoop out the inside and freeze the pulp for some great pumpkin waffles or pies later.

If the pulp is quite watery, it might be wise to cook it down so it fits the recipe - (such as when using commercially canned pumpkin).

Trying to keep water from splashing on the vines, can prolong the life - and hopefully, bring the pumpkins to full ripeness.

Just my 2 c's.

Bejay


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clipped on: 09.02.2010 at 03:57 pm    last updated on: 09.02.2010 at 03:57 pm

Weed or grass? Dark fast growing plant in new Tall Fescue lawn.

posted by: rttracey on 08.28.2010 at 03:10 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I'm a first time poster. I've searched for solutions to my problem (and convinced that I find the right solution, try it), but I don't think I'm good at matching my problem with the descriptions on this site. I wanted to describe my situation and provide pictures for help.

I recently purchased a new home in Bakersfield, CA with a front lawn landscaped with Tall Fescue grass. Shortly after moving in, I realized that parts of the lawn grew unevenly. Particular spots in the lawn, usually lined-up with the areas that probably acted as drainage, grew extremely fast. I also noticed that the growth areas had darker leaves and looked different from the rest of my lawn. The growth areas have continued to expand and have really hurt the aesthetic of my front lawn. To keep up with it, I'd need to mow the lawn more than once a week to get rid of the high growth areas, and even at that frequency, I am left with darker areas with a different texture.

After looking around, my first reaction was that it might be purple nutsedge. I purchased the herbicide SedgeHammer and applied it to the dark areas with a non ionic surfactant. After waiting 2 weeks, it seemed like the growth might have receded a little bit, but I didn't actually notice any yellowing or other sign that the herbicide had effected the plan. At that time, I applied Spectracide to the same areas to see if it was a different weed that would react to a more general herbicide. One week later, I see no impact.

Today I actually decided to mechanically remove some of the growth and didn't see anything like the nutlets nutsedge is supposed to have. In fact, it kind of looked like the same root system as the rest of the lawn. So now I'm wondering if this is just a different type of fescue (or better growing fescue than the rest of my lawn) of some other type of weed. Bottom line is that I'm looking for a way to get rid of it. I've attached pictures below of the lawn and pictures of the high growth stuff at different stages.

If there is additional pictures or information that could be of use, please let me know. I really appreciate your help.

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clipped on: 08.30.2010 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2010 at 03:37 pm

Help! Temperatures and planting for fall

posted by: ally99 on 08.30.2010 at 08:20 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

Hey guys. I have a question. I've started some peas, beans, and broccoli in a mini little greenhouse and have been waiting for milder temps to plant them in the garden. I was planning to do so this week, but now the temps are getting up to 97 again (Georgia). I'm heading out of town this weekend, so if I don't plant them by Wednesday, it will be at least next Tuesday or so before I can. My question is this: Would they be ok with 1-2 days of hot temps (as the temps are cooling off again this weekend), or would they be better off spending more time in their little peat pots in the Jiffy greenhouse? They've already germinated and have been in the little peat pots for over 2 weeks now.
I'm dealing with 2 sick family members, so I'm out of town more than I'm in town and having to try to plan my planting around my travels and the weather, and it's just not working out. :-( Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom. :) Ally

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clipped on: 08.30.2010 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 08.30.2010 at 03:37 pm

RE: soil structure/prep (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bpgreen on 08.27.2010 at 12:36 pm in Lawn Care Forum

That looks like thatch to me. It's a pretty thick layer, so it may interfere with the ability of water to penetrate. You should probably do something to get rid of it or break it up, either dethatching or core aerating with multiple passes to really break things up (and make sure it's set so that the cores are pulled pretty deep or it won't get into the soil.

Don't worry about the low N in your results, N is often not even tested because it is transient in the soil. That just means that you need to fertilize periodically.

If I were you, I'd avoid tilling unless you can get it graded afterward. Tilling may end up making it even more uneven once it starts to settle.

If your soil is really compact and water doesn't penetrate well, you can help that by increasing the organic content. Mulch mowing is a good starting point.

If you have a Starbucks near you, you can get free coffee grounds from them and spread them directly on the lawn. They're a mild fertilizer (around 2% N) and also a good source of organic matter. You don't need to worry about getting them exactly even. They won't cause growth spurts or burning like synthetic fertilizers.

Once you reseed, water often enough to keep the seeds and surface of the soil damp. You don't need the water to penetrate deep into the soil yet because the grass doesn't have any roots to speak of.

Once the grass gets going well, work on watering more deeply and less often. If water runs off too soon, you can try watering in cycles. Water in one spot until the water is just about to run off, then switch to another. Keep going around the yard doing that. When you finish, return to the first place. If it hasn't been an hour since you stopped watering there, wait until the hour is up and repeat the process.

David Hall (he posts here and on other lawn forums) uses a soaker hose to help soften soil. He hooks up the soaker hose and turns the water on a trickle and lets it run in one spot for a week. He then moves the hose to the next spot and repeats it. I think it may take several rounds to get it to work (I haven't done this, so I'm going by what others have reported). From what I've read, it works by encouraging fungal growth in the soil.


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clipped on: 08.27.2010 at 05:16 pm    last updated on: 08.27.2010 at 05:16 pm

Compacted soil w/ daily foot traffic

posted by: rake4leaves on 08.22.2010 at 10:57 am in Lawn Care Forum

We have a very small rear yard, on a slope with 2 huge pine trees at the back,
with pine needles (no grass) underneath, a metal shed and 2-3 compost piles.

On the slop of the yard, I line dry our clothing, bedding
and have been doing so for 33 years.
The clothes line goes across the width of the yard.

On the sides of the yard, I have beds of perennials, hydrangeas, butterfly bushes, etc.

With daily foot traffic, the soil where the grass has died, is very compacted.
That no longer grassy area is approximately, 20x20, "give or take" a foot.

I know once the cold weather comes, that slope will be hard
and slippery as I walk to the compost piles.
I've already fallen down that small slope, when it is wet and slick.

Getting older, so falling down is not a good thing.

I know about aerating the soil, but am looking for another
way to loosen the soil, without having to hire someone to
aerate and reseed the soil. The pine trees' roots also
grow underneath the sloped area.

I thought about purchasing a tiller, but they are too expensive.

Any ideas as to what alternatives to consider?
Is there a grass that can handle daily foot traffic?
is there an alternative to grass? I already tried
growing clover.

Is there any other way to loosen the compacted soil,
in the coming months this fall?

I look forward to hearing some suggestions.
Thank you.

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clipped on: 08.24.2010 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2010 at 06:59 pm

ground hard as concrete

posted by: hogan_nj on 08.22.2010 at 08:30 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I am trying to take a soil sample but the ground is so hard I can not get a sample. We did get about an inch of rain today but the ground is still hard. It has been a long dry summer. How long before the ground softens up, I guess I just need to be more patient.

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clipped on: 08.24.2010 at 06:58 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2010 at 06:59 pm

Bermuda in Winter. Will it stay green?

posted by: palmtreeguy on 08.23.2010 at 01:06 am in Lawn Care Forum

Hello. First time home buyer in March and this is the first time with owning grass, Bermuda to be specific. I've taken all steps to keep the lawn healthy but have not researched enough for the winter season. From the little of what I've read, the grass will get yellowish, or in other words, doormant. I was wondering if this will be the case throughout the winter or if I need to apply a fertilizer to keep it green.

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clipped on: 08.24.2010 at 06:54 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2010 at 06:55 pm

Cucumber leaves not looking right, bugs on beans

posted by: whymeintrouble on 07.27.2010 at 10:02 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

hi all,

got two problems

Cucmbers having a problem with the leaves turning white, or might be something white on it.

also, I have issues with my green beans, pole beans. I have found a bug, kinda looks like a beattle.

Here is a link that might be useful: link at another forum with pics of problem

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clipped on: 07.29.2010 at 03:36 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2010 at 03:37 pm

Lots of small crickets in my lawn - What to do?

posted by: jrodriguez90 on 07.20.2010 at 11:23 am in Lawn Care Forum

Hey all - I'm looking for some advice on crickets. Recently I've noticed that there are quite a number of small crickets in my front lawn. I've examined them and I don't think they are mole crickets. I just think they are common crickets, but there are alot of them.

The reason I ask is that about 3 weeks ago I noticed a few small brown patches of grass, which at the time I attributed to the scorching weather we had in the DC area so far this summer. We've recently got a good bit of rain and the patches haven't seemed to get any worse since I initially noticed them.

Could these crickets be causing the lawn damage, or if not will they cause damage in the future? They appear to be throughout the lawn rather than concentrated in one area. Has anyone else dealt with something similar? I hate to use insecticide if its not necessary, but I can't have Jimeny and his buddies eating my grass. Any thoughts?

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clipped on: 07.22.2010 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 07.22.2010 at 11:57 am

Lawn Alternative

posted by: fleemo17 on 07.17.2010 at 05:50 pm in Lawn Care Forum

My neighbor is seeking some advice on what to put in his front yard. Currently it's an eyesore of a weed-filled dirt lot. Instead of a typical turf grass, he's thinking of putting in Isotoma Star Creeper, Pratia County Park and Star Creeper or Woolly Thyme. Would that work for a large front yard? Most of it would be in direct sun, with one small area heavily shaded by a tree.

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 11:37 am

Hows this for my bermuda lawn calendar?

posted by: sunfire01 on 07.16.2010 at 09:43 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Okay I think I've come up with a pretty good schedule for my bermuda lawn needs. Correct me if I'm wrong and feel free to add any thoughts. I am taking a hybrid organic approach. During the growing season I plan to water once a week at one inch and mow at a height of one inch every 3-4 days.

March: Apply Amaze pre-emergent for crabgrass and other summer weeds.

April: Apply an organic fertilizer like soybean meal for the bermudas breakfast.

May-September: Apply Urea fertilizer and spot treat weeds with vinegar.

September: Apply Amaze for winter weeds.

October: Apply soybean meal.

Jason

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 11:37 am

Overseeding Bermuda right now?

posted by: czz_eddie on 07.18.2010 at 05:17 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Hello,

I recently posted about some weird grass in my lawn. I was advised my lawn consisted of goose grass, st. augustine and bermuda. It was suggested that I overseed bermuda & follow the "bermuda bible" so Bermuda could overtake the rest of the lawn. Here's my old thread:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg07224437853.html

I spread out $50 worth of Bermuda seed a little over two weeks ago, with the expectation of a solid two weeks of rain to get things started. But ended up getting hardly any rain. So I haven't seen seed growth yet.

I'm now prepared to set up a lawn sprinkler on a timer to get seed growth going. But is this a good idea right now? I'm in Austin, TX and it's going to be sunny & in the mid to upper 90's for the next couple months.

Also, what sort of schedule should I set my lawn sprinkler for? I have a Melnor 3015 water timer which allows it to water up to 3 times per day, for however many minutes I want.

Does 15 minutes, 3 times a day sound good? If it's in 8 hour cycles, what time of day should it start?

Thanks for any suggestions!!

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clipped on: 07.19.2010 at 11:32 am    last updated on: 07.19.2010 at 11:33 am

RE: Cutting height in hot temperatures (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: garycinchicago on 07.10.2010 at 11:36 am in Lawn Care Forum

>" At high temps top growth slows down considerably, so you will probably find you won't need to mow as often."

+1

How grass grows

How temps effect growth


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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 01:15 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 01:19 pm

RE: is it to hot to plant grass in dallas (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: john_in_sc on 07.07.2010 at 09:05 am in Lawn Care Forum

That quote is specifically aimed at cool season grasses.... Kentucky Bluegrass, Fescue, Bentgrass, etc...
The idea is to green up the cool season grass for good winter color and to have a good fresh start in early spring.....

Bermuda isn't a cool season grass... It's a hot season grass that goes dormant after the 1st hard frost.... You do NOT want to fertilize within 1-month of the 1st frost... and no fertilizer till it starts greening up in Summer...

Want Healthy Bermuda... Follow the Bermuda Bible...

If you follow directions for Cool Season Grasses... You will end up with slow growing, weedy, patchy, apple green/yellow/brown, diseased Bermuda grass...

Thanks

John


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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 01:12 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 01:13 pm

RE: Aerating heavy clay soil (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: john_in_sc on 07.10.2010 at 05:26 pm in Lawn Care Forum

How do you know it's clay?

It sounds like a dumb question, but by and large -- most of the "Clay" in the deep south is actually some sort of Loam -- Mostly Silt + Sand + a little Clay..... The lady at the USDA told me "A little clay goes a long way"

Now it is time to do the Soil Structure Test -- where you dump a couple inches of your dirt into a mayonnaise jar and fill almost full with water.

Shake it up good... for 5+ minutes, then sit it down on a shelf.

Check it at 2-minutes. Mark the line where it settled... This is Sand.

Check it at 4-hours. Mark this line -- This is Silt.

Check it after 2-days. Note the layer of sludge on top of the Silt.... This is clay.

I found out that my "Red Clay" was really "Sandy Loam" -- 5% clay and the balance and even mix of Sand + Silt.... though you would SWEAR it was Clay!

Adding Sand to actual Clay makes Sandy Clay.... Adding some Silt makes it Loam.... If you TRULY have solid CLAY... which most people DON'T.... Adding sand and organic material helps drainage...

Thanks

John


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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 01:10 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 01:11 pm

Bermuda Grass will it grow Part 3

posted by: bermudaman_2010 on 07.15.2010 at 04:17 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Well guys thought i would check back in with a few updated pictures of my project. Excuse the camera it fogged up when i walked out this morning, this should give all you guys who think planting grass seed is a waste of time..although my water bill went up 180 bucks since i started this on June 1st until now.
these are of start of project on june 1st.
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These are after 20 days, june 21st:
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And these are this morning July 15th:
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This is Day and night from where i started, now granted this isnt a full lawn of lush bermuda but it has a lot of grass and weeds, I am sure that by the end of August i will have a full lawn, I am going to spread some more seed on the thin and bare areas that didnt take and since i mowed actually for the 1st time yesterday after i spread the seed i will spread starter fertilizer..is this ok?

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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 01:03 pm

How long until you walk on new grass

posted by: legmanca on 07.14.2010 at 07:30 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I planted grass 6 weeks ago roughly in May when temperatures were wayyyyyyy above normal. Northland seed which is 40 rye,40 kentucky blue,20 red fescue was planted. Iv watered everyday 10 times aday sometimes keeping it wet. Iv cut the grass about 4 times already. Is it ok for people to start walking on the grass now???? Grass looks pretty good already. Height cut is 2to 3 inches. Will it damage the grass growing if i let the family and friends start walking on it??? I live in Northwestern Ontario Canada. Temperature has been great whole time it was growing. Thanks for any help.

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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 01:00 pm

New Lawn crabgrass

posted by: cliff27 on 07.16.2010 at 09:38 am in Lawn Care Forum

Had no choice but to plant new lawn in spring. Even with tupersan lawn is mostly crabgrass. there is a bit of grass though so I do not want to start from scratch. When will crabgrass die back enough in southern Rhode Island to permit seeding? thanks

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clipped on: 07.16.2010 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2010 at 12:59 pm

RE: Corn is tasseling - shouldn't I have ears?? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: fruitnut on 06.14.2010 at 03:28 pm in Vegetable Gardening Forum

lexie:

How often you apply N is dependent on your soil. If water moves thru it very freely, then 3-4 times. Less if it holds water well. The reason is that with excess water the N will be leached out of the root zone.

If your blood meal is about 13% N like mine, your total application will need to be about 4 lb per 100 sq ft.

I'd apply about two lb per 100 sq ft at planting and another two lb at about 18 inches tall. Blood meal needs to be converted by soil bacteria to a useable form. So applying it too late in corn growth won't help much.


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clipped on: 07.01.2010 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2010 at 12:54 pm

Lawn Pics (dormant, fungi, overferilized, sharpen blade) whats wr

posted by: stack316 on 06.26.2010 at 07:54 am in Lawn Care Forum

I follow the many others that have brown areas in my lawn. I have yet to get a soil test (plan to this week as I am on vacation and finally have time) My dog romes the yard so organic fertilizer is all i used. I mow once a week at the highest setting. This is my 2nd summer at this house, have no idea what the previous owners did/didn't do. I have't watered, rain has been fine in MA

here are my pics. I would appreciate your thoughts/suggestions.

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clipped on: 07.01.2010 at 12:26 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2010 at 12:26 pm

Baking Soda on Crabgrass

posted by: granburyflowergirl on 06.18.2010 at 07:19 pm in Organic Lawn Care Forum

I have tons of crabgrass in my P-77 Bermuda lawn.

I read that dusting crabgrass with baking soda is an effective way to kill crabgrass without hurting the lawn, somewhere I read that someone mixed the baking soda with hot water and sprayed it on the grass rather than "dusting" the powder, this would seem like the easiest way to go, can anyone confirm that this method works?

If not, could you just water the lawn so its all wet, then sprinkle baking soda over everything with a hand spreader or flour sifter?

How often would you need to repeat this to keep the crabgrass away and will this negatively affect the microherd?
Thanks!
Nikki

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clipped on: 06.30.2010 at 06:30 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2010 at 06:31 pm

Inexperienced gardener needs advice on lawn care

posted by: ajtsheppard on 06.29.2010 at 06:26 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Hi, I live in Connecticut and have a fairly large lawn. Formerly, my wife looked after the garden and lawn, but alas she is no longer with me. I haven't got much of a clue on gardening or lawn care, so need some pointers. Specifically, I have these questions (the lawn is about an acre in size):
1) How often should I water? (I have a sprinkler system)
2) When should I water?
3) Are there lawn treatments I should be using? And if yes, what and when should they be applied.
4) How often should I cut the grass?

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clipped on: 06.30.2010 at 06:08 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2010 at 06:11 pm

RE: Fall garden, when to plant (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: sewobsessed on 06.29.2010 at 08:55 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

chinamigarden,
Click the link below, pick 'fall garden', plug in your dates and click 'process my data.' Easy-peasy.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grow Guide


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clipped on: 06.30.2010 at 01:38 pm    last updated on: 06.30.2010 at 01:41 pm