Clippings by jolmos

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RE: Cutting a Plumeria (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tdogdad on 10.26.2006 at 05:41 pm in Plumeria Forum

Wait until Wookey wakes up in March. If you cut about 6" from where the branches join the stem, new branches will grow from the end of the 6" stem, but they will not flower that season. The branches that have been cut at a 45 degree angle should be left to dry about a week, then dipped into a solution of B-1 and water or Superthrive and water, or both and then dipped into a rooting compound with a fungacide so the power dusts the cut and up three inches of the branch. Plant into a one gallon black plastic pot into fast draining soil (often cactus mix or supersoil mixed with pumice or perlite at about 50/50) water once with the B-1 or superthrive solution. Put on warm concrete or on a warm seed mat. Leave it. In two months, when it puts out leaves, begin to water with B-1/superthrive water but let it dry out (water every 5-10 days depending on how hot it is.) In two weeks give it a half dose of a high phosphorus fertilizer and in 14 days a full dose continuing full doses every 14 days (plumies need phosphorus to flower) throughout the summer. Stop about a month before your weather begins to cool down to let the plant harden up for dormancy. Also, after you cut the branches, I would wait a day and then cover the cuts on the main plant with a tan tub and tile sealant which protects the cut and looks good. Many people do nothing to the cuts, but many long time growers use paint, spackle or sealant to lower the odds of fungus or bug invasion in the area. I have used all three and like the sealant best because it stretches as the plant grows and looks better. Bill


clipped on: 05.22.2009 at 12:06 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2009 at 12:06 pm

Preparing Plants for Shipping

posted by: remy on 04.07.2008 at 04:59 pm in Plant Exchange Forum

Hi All,
I was asked (and have been asked before) about how to prepare plants for shipping. I put together a photobucket album with descriptions of how I do it. I may have been too thorough, but better than not enough info right? lol.
I do hope people find it helpful!

Here is a link that might be useful: Preparing Plants For Shipping


clipped on: 05.01.2009 at 05:01 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2009 at 05:01 pm

RE: What's your fave seed-starting container and why? (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: sandy0225 on 02.13.2008 at 12:18 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

I use 1/2 gallon orange juice paper cartons. The nice ladies at church save them for me. They like to help and recycle with things they usually throw away. (they also save shopping bags for me to bag my sales in!)Throw away the plastic lid, cut them in half lengthwise to make two long trays from each carton.
5 halved cartons will fit in a no holes flat, covered with a clear germination dome. So you can do 5 different kinds of seeds in there, and take them out as each one germinates.
I dip all the cartons and flats and domes in 1 T Physan 20 to one gallon of water. Then fill with a good seedstarter mix that's sterile-like my favorite Promix PGX with biofungicide. If using promix with biofungicide, fill containers with soil and water in the kitchen sink with warm water until moist. Don't use Physan or it'll also kill the biofungicide built in.
If using other mix, fill with soil and water in using 1t Physan 20 to 1 gallon warm water. Then plant seeds. As a tip, don't put seeds in there too thickly or no matter how much light you put them in,they will be spindly when they are overcrowded. 50-75 tomato seeds, banana seeds, or other large plants is max. You can sometimes put up to a seed packet of small seeds like snapdragons that grow slowly as seedlings.
If you're doing tropicals that take a long time to germinate, presoak them for 15-20 minutes in 1 t Physan to 1 gal water to sterilize the outside of the seeds to give them a better chance not to mold before they come up.
Then cover with the dipped cover and here's the cool part, put them on your FREE heat mat!
My FREE heat mat is my forced air central furnace with floor ducts. You take a empty web flat, the ones that look like mesh on the bottom, turn it over and sit it on top of the heat vent. Then you sit your germination dome covered flat on top of it. The heat will heat your flat and also your room because it can go through the mesh flat.
Check your seeds every day, and get them in bright light asap and uncovered asap. I put them out into my greenhouse.
You can use bright fluorscent lights etc as an alternative.
When you're growing on your plants, you can carefully take a sharp knife and cut slits in the bottom of the cartons for drainage if you want to, or just water carefully.
Then when you're done, throw them away. Save the flats and domes for next year after cleaning them up.


clipped on: 04.24.2009 at 07:12 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2009 at 07:12 pm