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RE: how strong are wall-mount sinks? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: brickeyee on 09.27.2007 at 09:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

A cast iron sink correctly bolted to framing will stay put with few problems.
Many public restrooms still use this type of installation.
Lag screws can eventually come loose.
Through bolting with large washers against the wood will hold up fine.
I usually mount the 2x in the wall, lay the sink plate against it and drill matching holes.
The bolts are then put through large washers (or even square of scrap steel about 2x2 inches), then a nut is attached to hold them in position.
The bolts stick through the drywall (or cement board and tile) far enough to put nylon self locking bolts to hold the sink to the wall (or the bracket that the sink then attaches to).
A couple of 3/8 bolts will hold just about anything you can dish out.


clipped on: 03.19.2010 at 07:27 pm    last updated on: 03.19.2010 at 07:27 pm

RE: Pedestal Sinks...Need Smallest for Tiny Bathroom! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: katdip on 11.15.2007 at 03:43 pm in Plumbing Forum

I had the same problem - needed an 18" pedestal. This is the one I bought - it was the smallest, classic style one I could find.

Vitreous china.
Overall dimensions 18-1/4" W x 15" D x 34" H.
Basin dimensions 15-1/8" W x 9" D x 6-3/4" H.
Mounting bolts height 30-1/2" (on 6" centers). Bolts not included.
Available with 4" or single hole drilling.
Spout and faucet holes are 1-1/8" on 4" center basin.
Spout hole is 1-1/8" on single hole basin.
Back of basin to drain center 6-1/2".
Back of basin to center of faucet 2-1/4".
Faucet not included.
Available in White or Bisque.
Ships in 1 - 2 business days.
Free shipping to the contiguous 48 states.

Also, check out Renovators Supply at

They also have corner sinks, if you need to really wedge it out of the way.

Good luck.


clipped on: 12.12.2007 at 02:13 pm    last updated on: 12.12.2007 at 02:13 pm

RE: Replacing aluminum windows in masonry house (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: brickeyee on 10.02.2007 at 10:26 pm in Remodeling Forum

Buck frames are a quick way to install windows for folks who do not know how to work in masonry openings.
All they do is add another layer of junk to cause leaks and problems.
It is the "norm of most professionals" because it is cheap, fast, and easy.
You can fasten windows into a masonry opening using Tapcon fasteners and polyurethane caulk.
It is slower and takes more care, the reason it is not the 'preferred' method.
With bucks you WILL loose at least 1.5 inches of window size in each dimension (3/4 inch wood all around).
It will also result in larger exterior moldings to cover up the extra 3/4 inch.
Even worse are the weenies who install the new windows inside the existing casings.


clipped on: 10.02.2007 at 11:15 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2007 at 11:16 pm

RE: Replacing aluminum windows in masonry house (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: brushworks on 09.30.2007 at 05:14 pm in Remodeling Forum

A wooden buckframe is the norm of most professionals. The buckframe is then wrapped with flashing tape according to the AAMA specifications.

This provides a firm wall surrounding for the vinyl window frame, the tape provides weatherproofing, and then the foam insulation between the window frame and buckframe insulates and also adheres the window frame to the buckframe.

Of course, the install crew is expected to use Window Pro Foam or similar product that is non expanding.

To finish the install, an OG stop on the inside is fastened to the buckframe and the exterior is trimmed out with aluminum trim coil, followed by a quality fenestration caulk.

For the best install, I recommend the buckframe option when using vinyl windows.



clipped on: 10.02.2007 at 06:37 pm    last updated on: 10.02.2007 at 06:37 pm

RE: building a greenhouse out of old windows (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: javan on 06.12.2006 at 06:15 pm in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Here are some pics of the hothouse/greenhouse we built two years ago. We used windows our neighbors gave us, and built to fit the windows. We didn't use plans, but my wife did a great job of designing and building. We have plans to paint the structure but haven't gotten to it. We grow tomatoes, climbing cucumbers, and peppers in this hothouse. It has 3 sliding windows for ventilation, and while we would do a few things differently with the roof, I think your plan of using polycarbonate sheets is a good one. Just remember to angle them so the rain runs off. All the best, Jim

West facing (with slider)
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

South facing (with door) and slider on lower right
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

West facing (with slider)
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Yesterday, we had our first tomato of the year (a Stupice) from the hothouse.


clipped on: 09.30.2007 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2007 at 10:18 pm

RE: building a greenhouse out of old windows (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: squirrellypete on 09.21.2007 at 02:56 am in Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

I'll be tackling my own window greenhouse soon so it was nice to review this thread. I'm unsure of what my roof will be at this point and I may purchase a clear plastic corrugated roofing material for that if I can't salvage enough glass. This description is long but hopefully detailed enough to give you a good idea or what I have in mind. If anyone has their own ideas, suggestions, constructive criticisms they are welcome to post. When it comes down to it though usually I have to try something for myself even if others say it won't work. Sometimes it proves to be foolish and other times I am rewarded for it.

I intend for this greenhouse to have year-round use in one form or another. I have collected many many old wooden windows in good condition over the years (FREECYCLE IS A GODSEND! -- yardsales and salvage yards are good too). Some match and some don't. I am a stickler for symmetry in buildings. I like a somewhat rustic look but I still want it to look like an inviting retreat, not a thrown-together mismatched pile of this and that. I had initially thought I would be building a polycarbonate greenhouse but no matter how much I shopped around the cold hard truth is that I can't possibly afford what this stuff is selling for and the shipping on it is pretty darn pricey too. I want something pretty permanent and don't want to have to be putting up new plastic film every 1-2 years.

The size will be roughly 18 ft wide by 20+ long with a gable post and rafter style and shape. Sidewalls will be a little over 6 feet high with the roof being 9-10 feet high down the center. Structure will have a roughly 3ft. high wood siding kneewall all the way around with a row of 8 (16 total) matching 6-panel windows running the length of each sidewall above the kneewall. I purchased two sets of six ft. wide exterior French Doors from a salvage yard to go on both end walls for easy access and they are mostly glass to allow maximum light through the doors. Matching larger 9-panel windows will be mounted in both endwalls on each side of the doors. I am learning how to cut glass with a glass cutter and I plan to fill in the gaps around these primary doors and windows with custom cuts made from additional large salvaged glass panes and frame them in accordingly.

Unfortunately these windows are not double paned however I believe I can double-pane them myself overtime by custom cutting additional panes that match the size of each panel in the windows, fir them in on the interior side of the window with wood strips and use silicone to mount the glass, hopefully creating an airspace between each old pane and new if I seal it properly. However I would like to see what kind of temperature protection (if any) the single pane windows provide this first winter. I can do my double-paning project at my own pace next summer.

This is largely an experiment for me based on many other posts and forums so I am excited to try. Will probably be a work in progress for some time but I can envision it very well in my head and I love the idea of using as many recycled and free materials as possible. I have salvaged some treated 2x4s, 2x6s, 6x6 posts etc over the last 3 years and have access to culls from a log home mill so I think I can get away with this cheaply considering its size and hopefully relative permanence. My husband draws houseplans for a living so he's drawing up an accurate plan and materials list for me taking into account the items I've already collected. We built our cabin together 5 years ago so I have some experience with construction as well as installing large custom window panes. These smaller ones should be easier.

I am going to attempt passive heating and natural ventilation but may upgrade to mechanical methods and install a heater if this proves ineffective for my structure, location and climate. I do want vegetables, daylily seedlings, etc... actively growing inside and not just hovering above freezing. In our zone I believe a structure like this, even with single pane glass will get pretty warm inside on most of our mild winter days. However we do usually have a few cold snaps that dip into the teens and frequently have nights in the high twenties, low thirties. I am going to incorporate thermal mass in the form of water storage containers inside the greenhouse though it will be interesting to see if it makes any noticeable difference. I'll caulk/silicone/weatherstrip the heck out of it and make sure everything is sealed tight then see what I can get by with the first winter. For those few extremely cold winter nights I am going to attempt to design the benches in such a way that I can literally wrap an insulating plastic or blankets, etc...around the different bench zones if need be kinda' like putting them in a tent or possibly purchase some large solar pool bubble blankets to cover the exterior in. Maybe a combination of both, just depends on how much trouble they're worth and if it proves to be too much of a hassle for me to cover everything at night and uncover the next day.

I understand the drawbacks of using old windows, especially windows that aren't double paned or tempered glass. Breakability is always a risk but there are no children or large animals here and I do all of the yard/garden stuff myself so I won't be allowing any tractors, mowers, etc... or anything that could kick up debris close to the greenhouse site. The framing lumber will all be pressure treated and it as well as the wooden windows and the exterior wood siding will be either painted or stained and then sealed. The benches will probably be treated lumber with a reinforced 2x2 slat bench top. I already bought a stainless steel double sink at a salvage yard for $5.00 but haven't decided if it would be more practicle to place it in the center row bench or on the sidewall bench.

The interior layout will be a roughly three foot deep bench (actually multiple 3 ft deep X 4 ft long benches side-by-side forming one long 3 ft deep row) running the length of one side wall. It will also have a center row of back-to-back 3 ft. deep benches in the middle creating in effect one 6-ft wide bench top running almost the length of the greenhouse. I prefer back-to-back 3 foot deep benches as opposed to 1 6ft deep bench so that 1 person can easily move things around and reconfigure the design without having to ask for assistance. The other side wall will probably not have a bench in order to place larger potted shrubs/veggies at ground level or possibly have an in-ground planting bed. There will be a 3-foot wide aisle between the 6-foot wide center bench and each sidewall bench/planting area as well as a cut-through aisle in the middle of the center bench to connect the two main aisles. I will try to leave it adaptable so I can add a wall fan/vent, roof vent, the future if I find I need them. This greenhouse will have water, electricity and lighting and I plan to incorporate an adaptable zonal misting system that can be easily moved around to a different bench or removed altogether if need be. I have a similar set up in a homemade outdoor propagation box and a nursery bed.

If I can actually get it erected, sealed, at least 1 row of benches made and run the water and electricity to it by this winter I'll be happy. The moveable misting system, lighting, and the rest of the benches aren't as critical and I can work on those through the winter and Spring. I'll tackle the double-paning project next summer if I think I need it as well as add any additional heating or ventilation I may decide to add by next winter. I crazy?
Sincerely, Danielle


clipped on: 09.30.2007 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2007 at 10:16 pm

RE: HOW to??? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: brickeyee on 04.06.2006 at 09:01 pm in Remodeling Forum

Is the house masonry (no studs in outside walls and bricks 2 thick) or brick veneer (frane house with 1 layer of brick?
Brick veneer is done the same as a frame house since there is wood to attach the window to.
Very few installers will do masonry except by placeing the new window inside the old window frame (this gives then wood to fastern to). This also makes you lose about 2-3 inches of window in width and height.
A better method is to install 3/4 inch thick buckboards lining the opening and then install the windows.
The best method is to fasten the new windows into the masonry using tapcon or other fasteners and polyurethane caulk. Enough fasteners to hold things till the poly caulk hardens up.


clipped on: 09.29.2007 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2007 at 11:09 pm

reRE: Installing replacement windows in Brick... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: brickeyee on 10.29.2006 at 09:20 am in Remodeling Forum

It appears you are really lookiong for how to attach replacement windows in the existing brick openings.
There are very few contrators who will even try to correctly install windows into brick openings.
If the house is brick veneer (one layer) the nailing tabs are removed from the remodel windows (if they even have them) and the windows placed and caulked to the existing brick.
If the house is masonry, tapcons can be used to fasten new windows into the masonry.
Most of the widow replacement jobbers want to lne any opening with wood (called 'bucks' inthe trade) to simplify fastening the windows.


clipped on: 09.29.2007 at 08:25 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2007 at 08:27 pm

RE: Installing replacement windows in Brick... (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: brickeyee on 10.29.2006 at 02:36 pm in Remodeling Forum

The problem is how the house was originally built (and it is still pretty much the same now).
The windows are inserted into the framed openings before the brick is placed. This effectively traps the window. The nailing flange is between the brick and the wood and there is not enough room to get the nails out. A lot of sawzall time is often needed to prep the opening and the window replacement guys do not want to bother.

Even the window manufacturers for the most part stay away from brick openings.
You can look around on the web for installation instructions for brick openings, but the last time I bothered all the sheets called out bucks. I agree they often look bad if you do not have a house style that lends itself to brick mold to cover the bucks.
Thicker aluminum can be used to cover bucks also. A local sheet metal shop should be able to cut strips of ~0.40 that you can mount using stainless flat head screws or aluminum screws into the bucks.

I have installed replacement windows in masonry openings by sizing them to the brick opening less inch and then using polyurethane caulk to fill the gap.
Either tapcons into the brick or nails into the wood framing hold things while the caulk sets up.
Polyurethane caulk is more than strong enough to hold the window in the brick opening all by itself once it cures.

You are generally not required to make new windows meet the modern code when replacing them, but you can lower the openings if you wish of course.

Save some of the bricks you remove. You will need them since cutting bricks in half while they are still part of the wall will result in some that crack in the wrong place and have to be removed completely and replaced. It is better to remove the bricks one whole brick further than needed, cut them and mortar them back to get a clean edge. The opening ends up toothed on the sides until the cut bricks are put back. It can be a real mess to clean the mortar off when needed.


clipped on: 09.29.2007 at 08:27 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2007 at 08:27 pm

RE: cork and bamboo strand flooring done! (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: ItsMy1stTimeBuilding on 06.05.2005 at 09:40 pm in Flooring Forum

Sorry we didn't post sooner. We've been trying to catch up on life after the whole selling, renting , building, finally moved in thing. I used the Stanley Bostich MIIIFS Stapler and I believe 2" staples. It also only came with a spacer for 1/2" flooring or 3/4" flooring and I found no info on a spacer for 5/8". It was pretty easy to make sure that I had the proper spacing on this stapler. WITHOUT the air hose connected, I inserted a single staple back up into the staple gun so that it was sticking out of the staple gun. Then I set a scrap piece of flooring into position for firing a staple and checked where the staple would hit the flooring if it had been fired out of the gun. It's important that the staple hits right at the very back of the tongue. If you are not right in the center of 90 degree angle formed at the back of the tongue your next piece won't fit right. It looked like the 3/4" spacer(thicker one) would work alright or shim the 1/2" spacer out just a little. The biggest issue that I had was setting the air pressure. The max operating pressure on the gun was supposed to be 80lbs. At 80lbs. I couldn't get the staple to penetrate deep enough so that it wouldn't interfere with the groove on the next row of boards. BUT when I increased the pressure the bamboo would split along the tongue/ I ended up at about 90-100lbs of pressure with some splitting, but I don't think taht can be avoided given the hardness of the bamboo and its stranded composition. After all of that I was able to pick up speed a little bit and get all of the way across the room in only a few hours. When I trimmed the end off of a board after my first row, I would use the scrap end to start my next row. I opened all of the boxes and tried to alternate from every box to keep a good variety of colors and patterns on the floor. They can really differ from box to box.

There you go! Right out of the mouth of my hubby who did all the work. He said if you have anymore questions to email or he will try to read the thread in a few days and catch things up again. Good luck!


bamboo flooring installation tips
clipped on: 03.13.2007 at 09:50 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2007 at 09:51 pm