Clippings by joallen001

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: White painted cabinets w/diff color paint on island?? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: boxerpups on 01.09.2011 at 04:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love white kitchens and have one myself. I do not have
room for an island. If I did I would do one like
the one below called Zinc.

This is from Brooke Giannetti


Hancock Kitchen



AP 30 Ebeniste Las Vegas

Chadds Ford Blue Bell

This Old House
href=" kitchens/?action=view¤t=Thisoldhouse-4.jpg" target="_blank">blue island

blue island


Zinc Reclaimed
Zinc Reclaimed

Chris Kaufman Kitchens

Blue Island

Fox kitchens
blue island


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 11:34 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 11:34 pm

RE: White painted cabinets w/diff color paint on island?? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: babs711 on 01.09.2011 at 02:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I plan on doing this...white on the surround and a taupey gray/warm gray on the island with light countertops. I love the Fieldstone Grey shade by BM. I have also saved segbrown's kitchen as inspiration. She did that using BM's Taos Taupe on the island but used dark perimeter countertops and marble on the island:


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 11:32 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 11:32 pm

RE: I want to paint my new island, another color (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 02.17.2012 at 08:34 am in Kitchens Forum

I'm doing a gray island. I think it will really look nice in your room. Have you gone to Houzz and searched for "gray island" and "grey island" yet? You will be amazed at how many you can find.

some from my ideabook:

Shiela Off, CMKBD  kitchen

French Finese traditional kitchen

Mountain Brook renovation contemporary kitchen

Gathering Place traditional kitchen

Divine Kitchens LLC traditional kitchen


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 11:28 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 11:28 pm

RE: cabinet color? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: unbiddenn on 01.16.2014 at 10:52 am in Kitchens Forum

Consider using the same tone as the counters, on the bottom cabinets only. It would lessen the starkness, but not introduce another color. Google ' kitchen cabinets bottom color' for more examples.


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 11:25 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 11:25 pm

RE: All cherry or white uppers/cherry below? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: boxerpups on 07.05.2011 at 08:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few more pictures. I love the mix of wood
and white.

Not cherry but it is lovely


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 11:20 pm

RE: need a good creamy white benjamin moore color to paint cabine (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhome410 on 01.22.2010 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have BM Lancaster White (or I've also seen it listed at Lancaster Whitewash) on our island (shown below), and in our sewing room and kids' rooms. I think it's a nice creamy color, but it seems there are SO many that people love.

Mamadadapaige also used the Lancaster for her kitchen. --Oh, I now see she used Lancaster Whitewash for her baseboards and trim, which she says matches her cabinet color. See the link below to her page in the Finished Kitchens Blog and you can click on the link there for more photos.


Here is a link that might be useful: Mamadadapaige's kitchen in the FKB


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:55 pm

RE: Which cabinet color for island??? (Follow-Up #55)

posted by: marthastoo on 10.26.2013 at 09:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Ok, here are a few pics of my kitchen. I could write a book on what had gone wrong during this whole process, but I am sure everyone else has a similar story. This photo does a fair job of capturing the color of the island. It's called classic gray and the wood is alder. It reads a greenish gray. It looks fabulous with the Calacutta, which has some greens and brown in it.
 photo KIP1_zps3d2a8a68.jpg

More pics:
 photo KIP2_zpsaa3dd5f4.jpg

 photo KIP3_zpsbf557e89.jpg


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:52 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:52 pm

Finished Kitchen with Typhoon Bordeaux

posted by: pemberley on 05.31.2012 at 05:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is finally finished!!! Thank you all for your advice on the finish for my knobs and handles. After much agony I chose satin nickel. It went well with all of my stainless and my husband loved it. Enjoy the photos!!!







clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:36 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:37 pm

Finished Kitchen creamy white, lacanche, calacatta

posted by: tearose21 on 07.13.2009 at 07:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

Posted earlier but pictures were too small. Hope this works.



clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:35 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:35 pm

99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone

posted by: jbrodie on 03.01.2009 at 06:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally! Our kitchen is finished! I never thought the day would come, and boy am I enjoying it. I owe so much to this forum. I can't tell you how much you all helped me. Thank you!!! I hope I can help others in return.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!





soap stone

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:31 pm

RE: Tapmaster on sale (and question for owners) (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: seaduck on 09.08.2011 at 10:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

We installed the Euro model # 1775 in our kitchen reno and have been using it for a couple of months now.

I cannot say enough good things about it. DH says we could have saved all the cost of the reno by just installing that one thing and I would still be over the moon.

When we first got it, we found the little wand of the Euro style seemed uncomfortable with bare feet. But within a couple of days, either we got used to it or it loosened up a bit. Not an issue.

I would not get the momentary model. Being able to kick it all the way over to lock it on means that you can have water running to fill a big pot while you move around the kitchen. It also means you can set it so the faucet works normally for guests who aren't into Tapmasters.

I usually set the flow for medium stream, tepid. Our faucet is a Kohler Forte with a large single lever, so it's easy to push it slightly to adjust if necessary.

I like the look of the Euro. Completely unobtrusive. People don't notice it at all.

One thing to think about: Most people probably install the 'stick' in the centerline of the sink. We moved it slightly to the right, which is more comfortable and natural when we stand at the sink...we tap it with the right foot.

Best thing ever!!! And I owe it all to this forum.....


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 10:16 pm

RE: Experience with Crown Point cabinets? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mamadadapaige on 07.31.2008 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

thank you rmkitchen!

I am VERY pleased with the quality of my cabinets. The process went very smoothly. I did a lot of shopping around for cabinets and looked at lots of other options including Woodmode, Brookhaven, Quality Custom Cabinets, Plain and Fancy, local cabinet maker, and a couple of others. I was only looking for Inset cabinetry.

we ended up going with Crown Point because two different friends had used them and spoke highly of them. The designer I worked with at Crown Point, Mark Wirta, has been there for a long time and is very competent. He came down to measure my kitchen and was able to have the cabinets built to accomodate the fact that one our walls wasn't plumb. There were other little quirky things he handled with ease as well.

It was an excellent experience from start to finish and I highly recommend them.

The one downside is that they don't offer a ton of standard options on paint colors, however, for an upcharge you can specify a custom color. We were on a tight budget so I just went with a standard color. Their natural wood cabinets save significantly on the budget (25% less than painted), with the exception of a couple of the fancier woods such as Tiger Maple and Quartersawn White Oak.

Here is a link to a slideshow with pictures of my kitchen. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Here is a link that might be useful: slideshow of kitchen


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 09:43 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 09:43 pm

RE: air switch for garbage disposal - hard to keep clean?? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: suzannesl on 07.31.2013 at 03:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I went to an air switch when we remodeled almost 2 years ago. It's one of the things I love most about the new set-up. Not the least bit hard to keep everything clean.

The InSinkErator costs approx $43 from Amazon and $60 from HD and Lowe's. It takes about 5 min. to hook up and a talented kindergartener could do it with supervision.

See it there on the right?
 photo DSC01166.jpg


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 09:30 pm

RE: Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists) (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: buehl on 10.21.2008 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sink Undermount Options

There are pros & cons for each type of reveal:

  • Positive Reveal. The sink shows; granite cutout is slightly larger than sink

    • Pros: Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk and can easily wipe it off (it only gets nasty if you leave it there)

    • Cons: Silicone (caulk?) is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

  • Negative Reveal. The granite overhangs the sink; granite cutout is slightly smaller than the sink

    • Pros: You cannot see the gunk buildup or silicone

    • Cons:
      • You cannot see the gunk to clean it.
      • Dirty water/food can splash up & under where you cannot see to clean it. It's difficult to see underneath w/o leaning way over & into the sink.
      • Dishes/glasses have been known to break b/c when you lift them out near the edge of the sink the dish hits the stone counter & can break (or, if the dish wins, the counter could chip...but I'm not sure how likely that is).

  • Zero Reveal or Flush. Sink & granite are flush or even; the granite cutout & sink are the same size

    • Pros:
      • Easier to clean b/c you can see the gunk
      • No platform over or under for the gunk to collect

    • Cons:
      • More difficult to do perfectly
      • Silicone is visible, but if they use clear you won't see it when it dries

You will find proponents of all three types of reveals here...but in the end it's what works best for you.


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 09:16 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 09:16 pm

Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.

Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

Slab Selection:

On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

  • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

    Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

  • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.

  • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

    • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.

    • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.

    • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.

    • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

  • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)

  • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.

  • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied

  • Chips: Using something very hard & metal�hit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


  • Before the templaters get there...
    • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.

    • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.

    • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.

    • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.

    • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.

    • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

  • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them

  • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.

  • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

    Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placement�and still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

  • Factors determining seam placement:

    • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)

    • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available

    • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.

    • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.

    • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -

    • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

    You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

    With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

    Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

  • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.

  • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece

  • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
    Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


  • Seams:
    One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

    • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
      • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.

      • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)

      • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.

      • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.

      • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.

      • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)

      • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

  • Checklist:
    • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.

      • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.

      • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.

      • Make sure the seams are butted tight

      • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

    • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):

      • Make sure that the granite has been sealed

      • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications

      • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

    • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around

    • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.

    • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges

    • Check for chips. These can be filled.

    • Make sure the top drawers open & close

    • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher

    • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter

    • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances

    • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
      • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.

      • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.

      • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.

      • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.

      • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

    • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth

    • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

Miscellaneous Information:

  • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
    If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam

  • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA

  • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.

  • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB

  • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!

  • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see

  • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)

  • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust

  • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.

  • Suggested Prep for Installation:
    • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.

    • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)

    • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.

    • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.

    • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

  • Countertop Support:

    • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop

    • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required

    • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:

    • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino

    • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 09:14 pm

induction cooktop suggestions

posted by: dks35 on 09.10.2012 at 09:28 pm in Appliances Forum

hi all,

we've been trying to choose an induction cooktop for our kitchen. after much discussions and measurements we have agreed that the 36" is not an option - space is limited, so it will be a 30", pure black cooktop. Among the the 30" cooktops we really liked the KA Architect II KICU509XBL rimless. It has very good functionality, hob placement and just looks great. We also like the functions on the 500 Series' Bosch NIT5065UC and hob placement is ok, BUT - it has aluminum looking strips of metal in the back and the front. And you apparently can't opt out of those. The NIT3065UC model (entry level) of Bosch is rimless but functionality is lacking. Other makers we looked at were GE and Electrolux - also not a very good set of options. The upscale models (Miele/Wolf/Viking) are out of our budget.
So my question is - has anyone had KA KICU509XBL or KICU509XSS (with stainless trim) installed recently and how do they fare? If you have Bosch 500 series - do you like it and does the metal strip trim go well with your kitchen design? Or is it more of a distraction? Any other suggestions?
thanks a lot!


clipped on: 02.25.2014 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 02.25.2014 at 09:12 pm

RE: Instant hot water, large house tankless water heater (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mydreamhome on 02.06.2013 at 08:55 pm in Building a Home Forum

You need a recirc pump. Some of the newer tankless systems are available with them built in. We have one, it cost us a few hundred to have it added and installed. Hot water available in 4 seconds flat ~50' from the water heater with the recirc pump. Without the pump, it takes longer than 2mins to get hot water in the shower during the winter & even longer at the sinks. Most front load washing machines won't trigger the tankless hot water heater for warm or hot washes. Even if they do, the drum fills with mostly cold water before the hot ever makes it to the machine. Definitely a plumbing upgrade that makes a difference.

Hope this helps!


clipped on: 01.03.2014 at 09:13 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2014 at 09:13 pm

RE: Care to share your appliances? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: breezygirl on 01.17.2013 at 01:53 am in Appliances Forum

I'll play. I own:

KA BI fridge, 36"
Sharp MW drawer, 24"
KW warming drawer paneled, 30"
Wolf L double ovens, 30"
Capital Culinarian rangetop, 36"
Rangecraft hood, 42"
Kenmore DW, crappy

Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos

I paid less than retail for every piece.

I do have a upcoming purchase. My old Kenmore DW was reused my from our old kitchen because it was only two years old at the time. The thing is crappy. It doesn't clean well, even when I've pre-scraped so I have do a lot of rinsing and scrubbing. Plus, the thing is loud. I run it at least twice a day so I hear it a lot. Not sure which brand I'll choose next--KA or Miele. I was considering Bosch, but am so disgusted by their mistreatment and fraudulent use of Julia Child's image that I cannot give my money to Bosch/Thermador. I don't really want to cough up the cash for a Miele, but think it would probably be a better unit. I did like the KA I used in the past.


clipped on: 01.03.2014 at 09:01 pm    last updated on: 01.03.2014 at 09:01 pm

RE: Kerdi Situation (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: mongoct on 01.02.2014 at 04:40 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If the floor is indeed flat and level and the tray is simply warped a bit, yes, you can install it then weigh it down while the thinset cures.

If the floor is out of whack, level it. You don't want any voids under the tray.

For drypack, you can make your own.

Depending on how much you need, buy a bag of portland cement and a bag (or two) of sand, both are sold at the box stores. Mix at about a 5:1 sand:cement ratio. The 5:1 is probably the median ratio. Some go richer, some leaner.

Portland is usually sold in 94lb bags. Not sure if it comes in smaller sacks. If you only need a small amount and that 94lb bag of portland will result in too much waste or leftover material, then...

You'll also see "Topping Mix" sold at the box stores, also in Quikrete sacks. Probably 60-lb sacks. Topping mix is a mix of sand and portland cement mixed at about a 3:1 ratio. If you also buy a bag of regular sand and mix the two together at roughly 2 parts topping mix to 1 part sand, the sand will lean the topping mix out to a decent deck mud ratio.

While you may already know this, I'll toss it out anyway. Don't forget that a deck mud or dry pack mix is not anything like a typical mortar or concrete mix. You add just enough water to the dry ingredients so it's just moist. Just enough so when you take a fistful and squeeze it together, it'll clump and hold the ball shape.

That's why it's call dry pack. It's sort of "dry" and you have to "pack" it into place. Or something like that.


clipped on: 01.02.2014 at 10:47 pm    last updated on: 01.02.2014 at 10:47 pm

Blueprint Suggestions Kids Bathroom

posted by: joallen001 on 12.31.2013 at 02:34 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I posted over in the kitchen forum about a few things and had some comments about the bathroom as well. So I wanted to make a post about the the kids bathroom and see what thoughts you all have. I like the way its laid out but I wanted to see if other options were recommended. Right now the only thing I see that I would like better is having a separate sink for each bedroom and sharing the shower area. That may or may not be possible? Basically anything can change but the windows on the front of the house have to stay. Happy New Year!


clipped on: 12.31.2013 at 04:33 pm    last updated on: 12.31.2013 at 04:33 pm

RE: Best idea you,builder or architect had? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: amtrucker22 on 05.06.2013 at 01:55 pm in Building a Home Forum

We were having trouble with the placement of our mud room, bathroom, and stairs on the first floor. I must of looked that the first set of drawings for 3 days before I sent them back to him and said I didn't like the way it was. I explained and little further of what we were looking for, and next thing you know he sent the 2nd set back wrapping the stairs around the bathroom, something I would of never come up with. That is when I realized that is what he gets paid for, and I need to let him do his job!!! :)


clipped on: 05.06.2013 at 07:30 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2013 at 07:31 pm

RE: Basement or no basement in home? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: kathyanddave on 07.25.2007 at 09:34 am in Smaller Homes Forum

I would never buy a house in the midwest without a basement. I live in Missouri and every spring we have at least a few big tornados. Put a basement in, its only about $5000.00 extra, but totally worth it in safty and resale.


clipped on: 05.03.2013 at 12:27 am    last updated on: 05.03.2013 at 12:27 am

RE: It's May 2013! How is your build progressing? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: degcds on 05.01.2013 at 02:12 pm in Building a Home Forum

Well, lots going on so far. We started the pool yesterday, electric will be finished up this week beginning of next and then insulation and drywall will start in roughly 2 weeks. Stucco is going to start next week as well, it's been a long process but its just nice to see progress! We have gotten some of the perimeter landscaping done!

Well being drilled! Had to go 300 feet, ugh!

We did some crimson king maples for the trees and box woods in between to create a hedge fence!

The foyer with all the arches and the groin vault!

Our stone and stucco samples. We decided on the stone for sure and are thinking of going with the top left stucco color.. Out exterior trim will be black.

Digging the pool, and the rubber roofers on the master balcony!

And lastly, the pool from the master balcony! I think it will be beautiful when we get done!



clipped on: 05.03.2013 at 12:09 am    last updated on: 05.03.2013 at 12:09 am

best websites to buy faucets, showers, sinks & med cabinets from

posted by: jimnyo on 03.12.2011 at 03:24 am in Bathrooms Forum

sorry if this is a repost, but i did a quick search and didn't find anything. what are the best websites to buy from? i've heard a lot about and and to stay away from, but does anyone else have any recommendations?

when i google search shopping results, i'm seeing a lot of these sites and wonder if anyone's used them:, luxuryhomeoutlet, home thanks for the input!


clipped on: 05.01.2013 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2013 at 09:16 pm

Small things that get forgotten

posted by: Laura12 on 04.11.2012 at 06:01 pm in Building a Home Forum

I keep hearing that most people find that there are small things that they didn�t think about until after they finished construction that they wish they would have added into their build, and I was curious if all of you would like to help me to compile a list for all of us to consider during planning!

So far I have
- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
- Solar tubes in areas that don�t get natural sunlight
- Prewire security system
- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
- Central Vac with vac pans

Any others to add?


clipped on: 05.01.2013 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2013 at 09:14 pm

RE: Best place online to buy Appliances?? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mcmjilly on 04.21.2011 at 03:23 pm in Appliances Forum

I went into Sears with the AJ Madison and Plesser's prices, and they matched it.


clipped on: 05.01.2013 at 09:12 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2013 at 09:13 pm

RE: New Pool Build: Flower Mound, TX (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: rphmel on 01.23.2010 at 08:40 am in Pools & Spas Forum

Here's a pic of ours, it will give you an idea of what your beam will look like if you are doing it in flagstone (sorry it's not a great pic). Hopefully this will work:



clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 07:19 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 07:19 pm

RE: Outdoor Grills - DCS vs. American Outdoor Grill (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: Nunyabiz1 on 03.17.2013 at 12:57 pm in Appliances Forum


If I were you I would get a Kamado style BBQ and a Weed Torch to light it with.
With the Kamado you can get over 800 degree temps and can control that temp very easily from a very even 220 degrees for 12+ hours without having to touch it up to 800 (depending on amount and kind of charcoal) and everything in between.

You can start a charcoal BBQ in about 20-30 seconds with a weed torch, have it at smoking temp (220) in about 2 minutes, 350 degrees in about 4 minutes and between 500-600 degrees in about 6-8 minutes.
It is certainly a bit harder to mess with than a gas grill, but done properly really isn't that bad and virtually just as fast to be ready to cook on, just not quite as easy as "turn knob".
But the trade off is that no gas grill can compete with a good charcoal grill in flavor.

You can get a great Kamado that should last a lifetime for under $600.
We bought ours from Costco for $539.00 last year.

Ours is a Vision Grill, every bit as good as a Big Green Egg but cost half as much.

this is ours.

 photo Ham012.jpg

You can smoke on it, grill, sear, bake, even has a nice Wok attachment you can buy.
Set up a water smoker or regular smoker, nice pizza stone.
This is the Weed Torch lighting it.

 photo Ham005.jpg

Here is the Wok, get your fire to over 800 degrees and this is the best Wok cooking you will ever do.

 photo VisionARS16wok.jpg


clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 07:01 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 07:01 pm

RE: Share your awesome accent lighting (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: AnnieDeighnaugh on 04.13.2013 at 06:29 pm in Building a Home Forum

Another thing re exterior lighting, please beware of the look of the "munster house"...I've seen so many houses where they put the lights away from the house and into the trees in such a way that they cast the eerie shadows of the tree branches on the house and rather than look warm or inviting, it looks haunted and creepy. Best to spotlight the house from a distance of up close, but not through the trees.

This is not good:

This is good

And another consideration for exterior lighting for patios, decks and don't want to see the source of the light as it is far too bright...better to see the resulting light, but no bare looking bulbs.


clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 06:47 pm

Our new PAX system (mostly complete)

posted by: EngineerChic on 06.24.2012 at 11:11 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

I am SO excited and although I'm just a lurker here, I figured you guys would be able to relate :) A quick disclaimer - we are still mid-construction so some of the trim isn't painted & you may see patched areas of the walls that need paint.

We are adding a second floor to our house (actually, replacing the second floor that was more of an attic than actual living space). It's not a big house, so fitting 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms up there was a challenge.

The way the space worked out, we had a choice in the master bedroom:
1 - Build a walk-in closet that you'd walk thru on the way to the bathroom. The closet and bathroom would take up the back corner of the house, so there would be no window to the backyard.

2 - Skip the walk-in closet in favor of a wall of closets & a window to the backyard.

We opted for #2, but instead of a traditional wall of closets we went with a wall of PAX. So we have 2 wide & 2 narrow PAX units in the space. This may not have saved us any in construction costs but it definitely saved us an extra 4" of floor space in the path to the bathroom. We assembled the units this weekend.

Bragging for a minute ... DH helped get the frames assembled and into place. And he held the door while I installed the hinges. But I did the rest of it myself (building all the drawers, installing them, the lights, even lugging the pieces up the stairs).

A little overview of what you are looking at ... I don't have a before picture, really. But behind the dog is a window that looks out to the backyard, it also faces due South so we get nice light from there. That's the reason I didn't want a walk-in closet (and I find they become a home for a ton of stuff that I'm too lazy to throw out). If you walk to the window and turn right you enter the small (but serviceable) master bathroom.
2 Frames with our Helper

Here we have all 4 units in place & attached to the wall. We just barely cleared that electrical outlet. I'm really glad I made sure the electricians put it on that side of the stud, as opposed to the other side. There is another outlet between the end of the PAX unit and the back wall of the house, and we plugged the lights into that outlet.
4 Frames, Helper on break

Look - the light bars! I need to buy another one because it didn't occur to me that when you have a solid shelf it will block the light (duh).
Adding the Light Bars

This is mostly complete. DH has the two units on the left & I have the two units on the right. I need to get a wide shelf for DH & another light bar for me & another narrow shelf for me. DH has 3 narrow glass shelves but he's still not sure where he wants them, so they aren't installed yet. Oh, and it needs doors. There is one door on, but it's open.
Mostly Complete

This is where we finished tonight (we did clean up all the cardboard b/c tomorrow is recycling pick up). There is one mirrored door on (you can sort of see the bathroom in the reflection, the walls are a gray-blue but they look green in the reflection for some odd reason). There will be a pair of mirror doors in the middle and a pair of painted wood doors on each end. We bought the Hemnes doors, sanded them, and primed them. I still need to paint them to match the trim (SuperWhite by Ben Moore). Once I see how badly they mis-match to the white melamine I will know if I need to paint that as well (I really hope not).
End of Sunday

The best part about this is that there's no chance to hide a bunch of stuff in the back of the closet. Oh, and DH and I are not freakishly tall, if those hanger bars are any taller I have to go on tip-toes to put stuff up there (I'm 5'7", he's 5'9").

As a longer term project I want to make it look really built in by adding baseboard to the base (to wrap into the rest of the room) and adding wood to the top so it mets the ceiling. The wiring for the lights is up there, though, so I need to design that with some access panels to get to the wiring.



clipped on: 04.26.2013 at 09:32 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2013 at 09:32 pm

RE: Crushed granite driveway issues? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: athensmomof3 on 04.23.2013 at 10:33 am in Building a Home Forum

Exposed aggregate is about 20 percent more than concrete around here. It is lovely though. I was a bit concerned about the ability to play basketball and roller-skate or scoot on it but my main reservation was cost (end of the build and all).

We did a colored concrete with a broom finish and it looks very nice. We chose French Gray for the concrete color - mixed in the concrete not painted on top - which is a pretty pale gray rather than the creamy white of concrete. It looks great I think and goes with our bluestone apron at the end of the driveway and our house in general.

My parents did the same color on their driveway years ago and it has held up perfectly. Also, they have a brick apron and the driveway is edged in brick and the color looks great with that as well.

Just another thought if exposed aggregate or pea gravel is out of the budget.


clipped on: 04.26.2013 at 09:20 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2013 at 09:21 pm