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How often do you clean your vent hood?

posted by: sayde on 06.24.2011 at 08:18 am in Kitchens Forum

Finally got our vent hood hooked up. Finally was able to season a new wok (Christmas present) and made the first stir fry. Cleaned range afterwards but was surprised at lingering smell. Took baffles out of vent hood and they were very dirty, lots of oil.

This is a Blue Star range and Prestige 1200 CFM fan with baffles. I had used high heat and there was a lot of "breath of the wok." But still I was surprised to see how dirty the baffles got after one use.

Soaked them and scrubbed them but still think there is just a slight smell -- may-be my imagination. But, it seems that they will need to be cleaned after every significant cooking session.

Should I be surprised? Is this your experience?

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clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 07:58 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 07:58 pm

Inspiration: Modern/Transitional Kitchens

posted by: ICFgreen on 06.25.2011 at 08:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've really learned a lot from these forums as DH and I prepare to build our dream house. The one thing I haven't been able to find are a lot of modern kitchens. I have browsed through the finished kitchen blog, which is holy-wow-fantastically tabbed and cross-referenced (Big thanks to whoever did that!), but haven't seen a lot of modern/transitional kitchen.

Please forgive me if this isn't the place to post, but I thought it might be a good idea to post some of our inspiration pictures, and maybe some of the modern folks could post theirs as well. (Other styles could start their own threads).

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clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 08:42 am    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 08:42 am

Range Hood Advice

posted by: catvault on 06.25.2011 at 01:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Good morning! I'm very new to this forum (this is my first post) and I need some help with my range hood decision. Ive gained so much knowledge and advice through other people's questions in the past, but I think this time I have a unique question to ask. I know you guys can help!

We are renovating our bungalow cottage kitchen and have gutted it. We are having custom (painted off white) cabinets installed next week, Kashmir White granite counter tops, taupe walls....

My problem right now is the range hood. The stove will be situated between two windows, so putting a typical range hood with cabinets above seems silly since they arent "anchored" to adjoining cabinets. I really dislike the look of the big boxy stainless steel vent hood (including the mod looking ones with a curved piece of glass at the bottom). I really would love a simple mantle style vent but our budget is really tight and we cant afford for the cabinet maker to make the mantle, then buy all the "guts" for it too. Any ideas? Are there any other options out there?

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clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 08:36 am    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 08:36 am

Help with sink in island configuration

posted by: mercymygft on 06.24.2011 at 11:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I want to have an island with my main sink in it. I want it to be wide enough to accommodate the sink and then have plenty room for eating on the other side (this would be a single layer island). How wide should I make the island to accommodate the sink and eating space. I have plenty room to do a big island so that is not really a problem. The eating side will flow into the family room.

If you have any pics, that would be helpful!

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clipped on: 06.26.2011 at 08:34 am    last updated on: 06.26.2011 at 08:35 am

Width for island that seats 4

posted by: athensmomof3 on 05.13.2011 at 09:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

What length should an island be to seat 4? Is 2 feet a person enough? I would prefer not to seat people on the ends.
I have an L shaped kitchen with an island in the middle so it would be possible if necessary, but I would like to avoid it!

We aren't big people - husband is tall but thin - but I do have 3 boys who will be over 6' in no time!

Thanks!

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clipped on: 05.15.2011 at 07:53 am    last updated on: 05.15.2011 at 07:53 am

What do you love/hate about your island

posted by: GoofyYno on 05.10.2011 at 12:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I'm working out my new kitchen, but struggling about what to put in/leave off the island. I think I want a prep sink with fitting cutting board and colander. I also want a trash "hole" to sweep the garbage into. What other cool things have you seen? What things would you do or change about your island?

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clipped on: 05.10.2011 at 09:34 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2011 at 09:34 pm

Katieob - QUESTION about your kitchen

posted by: tinker_2006 on 01.29.2011 at 09:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Just browsing the forum today, while still in the planning stage. Saw your kitchen (again) and it's BEAUTIFUL. I'm going with inset cabinetry, but can't decide on the beaded inset vs. the plain one. Are yours beaded or not?

Also, can you tell me about your range hood!

Thank you!

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clipped on: 02.08.2011 at 08:33 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 09:57 pm

Need help finding post about pantry specs

posted by: gharborwa on 05.02.2011 at 01:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, my computer crashed last week, and there went all my bookmarked items. So much research, so many ideas.....gone.
What I am looking for now is the thread with input on laying out a walk-in pantry...shelf spacing, etc. I think I had at least 2 threads on this saved. Does anyone remember them? Thanks for any help you can give!

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 09:35 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 09:35 pm

What are zones and how do you design with them in mind?

posted by: buehl on 05.04.2011 at 08:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Kitchen work zones, what are they?

"Zones" are areas in your kitchen where the work occurs. Work in the kitchen is broken down into three primary work zones. Everyone has these three zones, everyone!

Prep Zone...This is the zone where food prep takes place. Food prep can be anything from making a sandwich to preparing a multi-course meal. It includes cleaning/rinsing food, cutting, mixing, processing, etc. For many people, especially those with small kitchens, their Prep Zone is also their Baking Center for rolling out dough, etc. 70% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent prepping. It's the most often used and longest used zone in your kitchen!

Cooking Zone...This is the zone where you take the food you've already prepped and apply heat...cooktop, oven, MW. Only 10% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent actually cooking. This is the least used Zone, relatively speaking. Think about it, you usually don't spend the entire time standing in front of your oven or cooktop watching it cook. Sure, there are some things that do have to be stirred constantly, but most things are not. And even then, you usually still spend more time prepping before you begin cooking.

Cleanup Zone...This is the zone where the dirty dishes are handled! Dishes, pots, pans, etc. 20% of the work and time spent in the kitchen is spent cleaning up.


++++++++++++++


OK, so now we know what the primary zones are. So now, how do we design a kitchen keeping them in mind?

Prep Zone...works best when it contains a water source and is next to or across an aisle no more than 48" wide or so from the Cooking Zone. Trash & recycle bins should also be in the Prep Zone.

Cooking Zone...works best when next to/across from the Prep Zone (see Prep Zone). It's also nice to have a water source nearby as well as trash & recycling nearby.

Cleanup Zone...works best when separated from the Prep & Cooking Zones. This can be on the opposite side of a one-sink kitchen from the Prep Zone or it could be in a completely separate location (the latter usually only works well if you have two sinks). Obviously, it also needs a water source and the DW.


What else do we need to keep in mind regarding planning a kitchen and zones?

Dish Storage...works best when it's near the DW and near the serving/eating locations (island, DR, Nook, etc.)

Food Storage...works best when it's near the "action". It's nice to be able to store staples, etc. at their point-of-use, so food storage can be spread throughout the kitchen. E.g., flour, sugar, etc. in a "Baking Center", spices in the Prep or Cooking Zone, Cereal close to where breakfast is eaten, etc. If you have a dedicated pantry, it's nice to have the pantry near the point where the groceries enter the house as well.

Refrigerator...works best on the periphery of the kitchen so it's easily accessed by people working in the kitchen as well as "outsiders" looking for a snack without the "outsiders" getting underfoot of those working in the kitchen. It should also be near the Prep & Cooking Zones inside the kitchen and, if possible, near the main meal location(s) for ease of access during mealtime.

Microwave (MW)...this also works best on the periphery of the kitchen so it's easily accessed by people working in the kitchen as well as "outsiders" looking for a snack without the "outsiders" getting underfoot of those working in the kitchen.


Zone-crossing - avoid!...When planning zones, etc., try to minimize zone-crossing. For example, if you can avoid it, don't put the refrigerator such that you have to cross through the Cleanup Zone to go b/w the refrigerator and the Prep or Cooking Zone.


Protection...of all the zones, the Cooking Zone should be the most protected from through-traffic as well as general-kitchen traffic. The Cooking Zone contains the range/cooktop where you will be dealing with fire (if gas), hot foods, etc. You also do not want to have to cross a busy aisle when taking a pot of boiling water from the range/cooktop to the sink for emptying...or anything else hot, for that matter!


Zones and Kitchen Workflow

When designing your kitchen, ideally, the zones should follow the normal/usual workflow in a kitchen:

Refrigerator --> (Prep) Sink --> Workspace --> Cooktop/Range --> Table OR (Cleanup) Sink --> (Cleanup) Sink --> Cabinets (dishes, pots/pans, etc.)

Which translates to:
Refrigerator --> Prep Zone --> Cooking Zone --> Serving Zone --> Cleanup Zone

You don't necessarily have to have this exact flow, but something close. For example, you might have the Cooking Zone located between the Refrigerator and Prep Zone. This isn't necessarily bad b/c these two zones are tied so closely together. On the other hand (OTOH), it's not a good idea to put the Cleanup Zone between the Refrigerator and Prep or Cooking Zones on the same run or on the same aisle if it's a narrow aisle. In this case, the DW and someone cleaning up and/or unloading the DW will be in the way of anyone prepping or cooking because the refrigerator is an integral part of both prepping and cooking. And, of course, the reverse is true....someone prepping and/or cooking will get in the way of someone cleaning up!


+++++++++++

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--Tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Prep(aration)--sink & trash/recyclables--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW (and near a water source)--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels [often combined with Cooking Zone]

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & not too far from trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating/Serving--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message/Communication/Command Center--keys, phones/answering machine, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard, pens/pencils, sticky notepaper

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--tea/coffeemaker (and near a water source)--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Snack/Beverage Center--near MW & refrigerator or small refrigerator--snacks, snack dishes, glasses [often combined with Tea/Coffee Bar]

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks, leashes, medicines (if no small children in the home), etc.

Overlapping of Zones

Due to space constraints, some zones often overlap. If this is the case in your kitchen, be sure there is enough work space in the overlap for both activities. Zones that commonly overlap...

  • Prep & Cooking Zones--These zones should be adjacent to each other, so this is a common overlap and is generally not a problem. Just be sure you have enough room for prepping as well as landing space for the range/cooktop. (It is strongly advised you have enough room for emergency landing space on both sides of a range/cooktop.)

  • Prep & Cleanup Zones--If there is only one sink in the kitchen, these zones will be adjacent to each other because of the need for a water source for both zones. However, true overlapping is not generally a good idea. Instead, try to keep the cleanup area separate from the prep area by putting the sink between them. E.g., DW on one side, Prep Zone on the other side. (You should strive to keep the DW out of the Prep Zone as well as out of the path between the sink and Prep & Cooking Zones and between the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones.) Also try for at least 36" (42" or more is better) of room on the Prep Zone side of the sink for ample workspace as well as accommodating the inevitable dirty dishes that will accumulate next to the sink.

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 08:56 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 08:56 pm

GC markups

posted by: mtnrdredux on 04.30.2011 at 11:41 am in Kitchens Forum

Some of you may recall my query a month or so back about marble fabrication costs. The cost was about 3k. Eased edges, no sinks or cutouts or anything but rectangles. I thought it seemed high, but then several people here educated me that fabrication costs are quite significant.

The project manager, who uses our unfinished living room as his office, left an unsealed envelope ... And nothing else ... on his "desk" ( our table). I moved it to do some measuring for an area rug, noticed the envelope, and opened it.

The marble fabrication cost was marked up 33pct by our gc. I think that seems high.

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 02:35 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 02:35 pm

Cabinet construction must haves??

posted by: designnov on 03.24.2011 at 11:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi -
We are pricing out cabinets and I am getting a little overwhelmed with all the different ways to construct boxes, doors and draws. Our budget should allow for mid range cabinets, but we are looking for ways to save where ever we can. Are there any absolute must haves in the way cabinets are constructed? No all particleboard boxes, right? Are plywood ends enough? If my doors will be painted, can I do veneer panels in the doors or should we stick with all wood? Do we need dovetailed drawers? Anything else Im not thinking of?
This will be a forever kitchen, and it will likely take a beating with 3 kids in the house, but we are on a tight budget.

We've looked at Greenfield, Diamond and will get a quote soon from Shiloh. Anyone else that we should consider?

Thanks.

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 02:04 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 02:04 pm

Positive Sink Reveal - Much Trouble?

posted by: kitchenkrazed09 on 05.05.2011 at 05:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

I chose a positive sink reveal for my undermount apron front sink because I really like the look. The fabricator said it will be harder to clean. Is it that you actually just see what needs to be cleaned (as suggested by Buehl's great info on sink reveals) or is it really harder to keep clean? Thanks!!

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 01:51 pm

Where can I find old fashion subway tiles?

posted by: schnauzer on 05.05.2011 at 05:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm looking for subway tiles that are irregular in shape such as these. Where can I find them?

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk200/edlakin/laramie%20kitchen/sinkandfaucetdetail.jpg

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clipped on: 05.08.2011 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 05.08.2011 at 01:12 pm

Outlets in Island?

posted by: Stefaniebb on 05.07.2011 at 12:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
Is it required by code to have outlets on the ends of your island? I will have two outlets inside the island I am having a hard time letting them cut up the panels on the outside for some reason :)

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd474/Stefaniebb1/photo3.jpg

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clipped on: 05.07.2011 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2011 at 10:12 pm

Prep sink is too big!!! Arghh...

posted by: newbieremodeler on 05.06.2011 at 08:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

After spending hours researching sinks I finally snagged the last Ticor S3640 undermount stainless steel sink from galaxy. I was thrilled! It arrived today and DH and I both looked at it said-- that is too big for a prep sink!! :(

Maybe its because our current sink is double bowl 13x15 each and only 6 inches deep and this new prep sinks interior is 15X15 and 10 inches deep. Argghh! :(

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clipped on: 05.07.2011 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2011 at 10:05 pm

Alternatives to Circa Lighting/Visual Comfort Lighting

posted by: torino94 on 04.29.2011 at 05:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just found out the Goodman Pendants I ordered from Circa Lighting are now delayed until at least mid-June and even that date is not definite. I want to cancel and find something else but where? It seems that Circa is the only place that has such great fixtures. I have been to all the stores here in North Jersey and they all have the same ordinary pendants. Any ideas?

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clipped on: 05.01.2011 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 05.01.2011 at 09:48 pm

Pantry photos/ pics of pantries

posted by: rhome410 on 02.03.2009 at 02:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are some great pantry threads that will eventually be lost and Starpooh suggested I post links here so that others can post and, hopefully, we'll keep some of these resources alive for those planning pantries in the future. (She pointed out that threads 'live' longer here than on the discussions side of the forum.) There is one thread, in particular, that has awesome photos of pantry interiors that I can open through a link I've saved, but if anyone posts on it, it doesn't become current again. Starpooh has put it in .pdf form and it is too large to download here, so I've linked it below.

Here is another walk-in pantry thread with helpful shelf spacing guidelines/recommendations:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0518351723171.html

There is also a previous thread with photos of closet style pantries, which I'm still trying to track down. Of course, photos of pantry cabs will be helpful to people, too.

Anyway, here's hoping people will start showing off their pantries here, so we form a pantry album for others to consult.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread as .pdf: Anyone Willing to Share the Inside of their Pantry?

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clipped on: 04.20.2011 at 11:19 pm    last updated on: 04.20.2011 at 11:19 pm

What type of window is behind your sink?

posted by: newbieremodeler on 04.17.2011 at 10:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am in the process of researching windows and would really like a window like Buehl and others where the window base is at the countertop. I was wondering does a certain style of window works best for this type of placement? My current kitchen has a casement windows flanking a stationary window and that seems to work well. Just wondering what other options work well. Feel free to throw out brands as well. I live outside of Chicago--so the windows need to deal with sun, rain, snow, freezing temps, etc. Also my house is a 1957 ranch if that helps anyone. TIA!

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clipped on: 04.18.2011 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2011 at 10:55 pm

Vintage sinks

posted by: lavender_lass on 04.17.2011 at 10:42 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been looking at vintage sinks and really like this one...which is from a GW post about five years ago. It's very similar to the sink Laura Calder has in her kitchen, which I love.

How difficult would it be to find a vintage sink that is similar? Are there any new sinks with this type of design? I found a single sink at Lowe's but no double sinks, with the built in backsplash.

Thanks in advance :)

This is one of the few pictures I can find of her kitchen, but I included a link, below, if you want to see the sink.

Here is a link that might be useful: Laura Calder on YouTube

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clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 11:58 pm

Treatment to Make Glass Less Green?

posted by: lwright2006 on 03.23.2011 at 02:18 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Speaking to my contractor today, he said that since we're going with bright white subway tile, he thinks it's a good idea to "treat the glass to take out the green tint" and that this treatment would be a couple hundred dollars. Is this a real thing or is he just trying to get a few bucks? I couldn't find anything about it anywhere!

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clipped on: 04.16.2011 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2011 at 09:31 pm

Kerdi Shower Part Deux

posted by: mongoct on 12.17.2009 at 12:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's Part Deux. The original Kerdi Shower thread lost virtually all of the photo links when the forum they were on changed their software and dumped the links. That forum's administrator doesn't know if they're recoverable, so I did a little editing and here's Part Deux. I may ask Gardenweb to delete the original thread.

This thread is to show a few techniques for working with Kerdi membrane.

Shower is a walk-in, about 5' by 7'. Door is at a 45 degree angle in one of the corners.

Walk in to the shower and on the short wall to the immediate right are two supply valves, the lower one supplies the wall mounted handheld, the upper supplies an overhead 12" rainshower head.

Moving counterclockwise from that wall, the long wall to the left of the valve wall is an exterior wall and will get nothing but tile.

To the left of that long exterior wall is the shower's short back wall, it gets a 2-shelf niche. The niche is about 36" wide and 30" tall. The lower niche space is 15" high, the shelf itself is 4" thick, the upper niche space is 11" high.

To the left of the short niche wall is another long wall, this wall has the wall-mounted hand-held. If I recall, the sliding bar is 40" tall.

In the ceiling is a 12" rain shower head. Also four can lights for illimination and a fan for ventilation. Ceiling will be tiled.

The wall construction? Kerdi is a vapor barrier, so no barrier is needed on these walls. Tile backer? With Kerdi you can use drywall. I prefer cement board on the walls. Wonderboard or Durock. I used Wonderboard on these walls. The ceiling and niche is done in Hardie, which is a fiber-cement board. Hardie is less brittle, so for me it's easier to cut into narrow strips to trim out the niche, and not as prone to snapping when installing full sheets overhead. I work solo 95% of the time, so it's not uncommon to hold the sheet up with one hand and have the screw gun in the other.


ABOVE: Valve wall


ABOVE: Niche wall, and on the left you can see the stub out for the hand held


ABOVE: Shows the Wonderboard walls and the Hardie ceiling.




ABOVE: With Kerdi, you don't have to mesh tape and thinset the seams. You can fill the seams with thinset as you hang the Kerdi on the walls. No need for tape as the Kerdi will bridge the joint for you. Just make sure your walls are smooth. If you have any thinset blots or chunks of cement that mushroomed when you drove a screw, knock them down so the walls are smooth. Here I'm striking a pose with a carborundum stone.




ABOVE: Setting a plumb line to hang the first sheet. Just like hanging wall paper. I hold the first sheet about an inch from the inside corner. Sheet is about 39-1/2" wide. I want the thinset to extend about 1" past the edge of the sheet. So I drop a plumb line about 41-1/2" or so from the inside corner, and mark the line vertically every foot or so with a tick mark using a sharpie.




ABOVE: Thinset. This is a little thicker than I want. I want it stiff enough so I can flat trowel it on the wall without it dripping all over or running down the wall, as well as it being able to hold a ridge after it's combed out. Not too stiff, though as you don't want it skinning over before you hang the sheet.

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clipped on: 04.16.2011 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 04.16.2011 at 03:13 pm

antss (or others?) weigh in on my water heater needs?

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 03.30.2011 at 11:08 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Antss- your info in the thread about the kohler DTV seemed great. Can I ask you to weigh in on my plan.

We're not using the DTV, we went w/ moen IO digital. The specs are:
Showerhead and handshower limited to 2.5 gpm (9.5 L/min) � Bodysprays limited to 1.75 gpm (6.6 L/min) each
One showerhead, one handshower, four body sprays = 12 GPM (if I added right)

We are doing:
75 gal tank under the master
50 gal added propane tank with a 50 gal geothermal holding tank (both on the opposite side of the house and for the rest of the house).

I also have an MTI caribe tub and I like long hot baths. The tub has radiant heat to hold in the heat. Tub is 79" x 47.5" x 22"

Can I fill the tub OK w/ the hot water heaters I've got (assuming no one has used the shower in hours!) Will we be OK for showers? How long will our showers be able to be? This is the plan my builder/plumber came up with. Hot showers and hot baths are IMPORTANT. Reassure me or dash my dreams please ;)

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clipped on: 04.16.2011 at 07:48 am    last updated on: 04.16.2011 at 07:48 am

Finally ... our new bathroom!

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 04.03.2011 at 10:41 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I think this room is FINALLY finished. The shower door guy came back on Friday to replace the shower door handle (the first one was HUGE).

Overall, I'm thrilled with how this room turned out. We splurged on a few things, but overall there's nothing I wouldn't do again. I would say that I could probably live without the heated floor, but in the grand scheme of things I think the total cost of that was about $300, so for that price I'm happy to have it.

The room is only 8x8 and I can't think of anything else I needed in the room. In fact the shower (5' x 40") seems overly large.

Here are a few of the details, although I've forgotten the particulars of several items. If anyone is really itching to know I can look it up.

Floor: Light gray 24x6 porcelain tile (was originally 24x12 and our tile guy cut it down.
Walls: Off-white 12x24 tile with oval glass accent tile
Fixtures: All Kohler. The faucet is Margaux. Showerhead is the Flipside and I LOVE it. Highly recommend this handshower. All fixtures including sink were ordered from faucetdirect.com.
Heated floor: Flextherm
Toilet: Toto Carolina II
Vanity and linen cabinet: Custom built to my design
Towel warmer: Runtal neptune
Colors: Walls Benjamin Moore Gray Mist; ceilings BM Healing Aloe
Counter: Hanstone Ruscello Aspen
Vanity pendant lights from Lumens

I wanted to say thank you to everyone on this forum. You were all a wonderful source information and inspiration during this process. I would have lost my mind and probably made several mistakes during this process without all of you.

But enough of all that stuff ... onto the photos (which were very hard to get without a wide angle lens). These are more or less from left to right as you walk in the room.

I love the teak shower floor. It flips right up to clean underneath it. It has a great feel under your feet.

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clipped on: 04.15.2011 at 10:39 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2011 at 10:39 pm

FAQ/Answers Bathroom Plumbing for dummies

posted by: sheilaaus122 on 06.23.2008 at 11:06 am in Bathrooms Forum

I hope this is not hijacking the previous thread of Showers- FAQ but I thought since Bill V had offered to answer a bunch, those were more likely to be tiling related. I thought maybe we should start a new one of plumbing related FAQ's and if we get lucky- answers will be posted here too.
I will start-
for a shower/tub configuration, what is needed besides the tub spout, the shower head, and the on/off thingy?
For a shower configuration(like the master bathroom with a separate tub) what is needed beside the shower head and on /off thingy?
And for both of the above, what optional fixtures do you like? (handheld, stuff like that).

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clipped on: 04.15.2011 at 10:16 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2011 at 10:16 pm

RE: Opinions on pot racks? (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: lavender_lass on 03.18.2011 at 05:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

If I were going to do a pot rack over the island, it would be something like this...but you'd have to clean it and polish the copper. Notice that some of the pans in the back, need a good polish...but it is pretty :)

Three reasons I decided against this type of pot rack...no vaulted ceiling, so pans would hang down too far...changed from island to work table and it's too heavy IMO...and I can just see one of my kitties, in particular, swinging from it!

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clipped on: 04.09.2011 at 09:56 am    last updated on: 04.09.2011 at 09:57 am

Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets

posted by: gardengirl53 on 03.01.2010 at 01:18 am in Kitchens Forum

I've been reading on GW about so many of you who prefer drawers over the slide outs in the bottom cabinets and have been trying to figure out why. I had drawer for my pots and pans in my last house and hated the way I had to lift everything out or cram stuff over to get out a pot that was on the bottom. My pot lids were the same way. What do all of you who love your drawers store in them? I would think you would have the same problem with just about everything. I'm wondering what I'm missing. I personally think the slide outs give you more access to and easier reach to most everything. I know it's a matter obviously of choice but I'm wondering if there is something I'm just not getting. I think the drawers are prettier and wish I did like them more. What are all of you storing in your bottom drawers? Thanks much.

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clipped on: 04.08.2011 at 10:33 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2011 at 10:34 pm

How tall should my drawers be?

posted by: joyjoyjoy on 02.25.2011 at 12:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have 2 sets of drawers ... one is 36" wide, and the other 30" wide. I know I need a couple of short ones for utensils, dish towels etc, but I'm new to the deep drawers in the kitchen concept. Going over my list of things that will go in each drawer, I see the need for more short drawers than big tall ones, but I know all that ends up taking away from the actual useable space.. are there dividers i can get after the fact if I decide I want to divide a large drawer? Or should I have my cabinet guy build in separate sections within the drawer just in case?

How are your drawer cabinets divided up, and do you recommend you setup?

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clipped on: 04.08.2011 at 10:19 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2011 at 10:19 pm

Anyone care to share their custom cabinetmaker agreement terms?

posted by: senator13 on 03.23.2011 at 09:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are getting ready to have a custom cabinet maker start measuring and production for our kitchen cabinets. He does amazing work, that I have seen in person. I also got several recommendation from others. However, he is Amish and does not appear to have an agreement ready for me to sign. I would like to construct something for him, but I was looking for a template if someone is willing to share their's with me. My e-mail is active, so you can e-mail it to me if that works for you.

Thanks in advance!

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clipped on: 04.08.2011 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2011 at 10:14 pm

Children's Bath - Traditional Shower Head v. Slide Bar

posted by: emmertae on 03.29.2011 at 11:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Is it worth the expense to put a slide bar w/shower head in a children's bath versus a traditional shower head? Thanks!!

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clipped on: 03.31.2011 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 03.31.2011 at 10:08 am

what's a comfortable master bath shower size?

posted by: skeetie219 on 03.28.2011 at 05:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hello everyone, I'm looking for opinions/experiences with masterbath shower sizes. Trying to get an idea on what is a good comfortable size/roomy without using up all the space. I would like to put bench and wall niches.However
I don't want a monster shower....right now the shower is 33"x33" (which is like a closet). We are still keeping a tub and 72" vanity. Room size is 10.5' x ~13'
Appreciate the feedback.

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clipped on: 03.31.2011 at 08:55 am    last updated on: 03.31.2011 at 08:55 am

Sharp Microwave Drawer installation

posted by: joyce_6333 on 03.19.2011 at 07:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I would really appreciate seeing some close up pictures of an installed microwave drawer. DH is freaking out that the controls will be partially hidden under the countertop. It appears that the controls are angled up a bit, but he doesn't think it is enough. I'm going to be gone when they measure for the countertops, and I worry he may ask them to do something weird like cutting the countertop out over the microwave controls so they can be seen more clearly. I need to assure him that they will know the right thing to do. Thanks for responding.

The microwave will be installed in the space where the box is sitting.
Photobucket

Joyce

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clipped on: 03.29.2011 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 03.29.2011 at 10:43 pm

Outlet and cover in the island: What color?

posted by: hungryheart on 02.24.2011 at 08:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to figure out what to do about the outlet in my island which will be quite visible. My cabinets are cherry pecan and all of my outlets/switches are white. My first inclination was to put a brown outlet and cover into the island to try to blend it in with the wood, though of course it won't really blend. Then I thought that perhaps I should do a black outlet and a stainless steel cover. Or should it just be white to match the others? Now I'm thinking that I'm just really obsessing! Thoughts?

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clipped on: 03.28.2011 at 07:14 pm    last updated on: 03.28.2011 at 07:18 pm

Kitchen layout - please take a look :)

posted by: cobragirl96 on 03.25.2011 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

We are FINALLY going to be breaking ground next week and the kitchen addition will be going up. I want to sit down with a kitchen designer and get my plan nailed down before my contractor puts the doors/walls in, so much harder to plan a kitchen in a blank space although it leaves lots of flexibility!! I have included a copy of the "new" bottom floor, in our plan the kitchen is open to the family room (separated by a header, but technically the rooms are completely open), and the dining room is open to the side, which is why we chose not to put a kitchen table in the kitchen, however we would love a large island with LOTS of seating. We are a family of 5, extended family always over (grandparents, aunts, uncles, etc.) Kids are 5.5, 3.5 and 2. First floor plan is one where we only have one slider in and out of the kitchen to the backyard, and the island seats 5. Second kitchen floor plan I put two exit doors in the back and island has seating for 6. Both plans I find the fridge in awkward places, but I didn't want it "buried" in the kitchen because my kids go there all the time to get fruit, juice, yogurt, etc. Please give me any and all feedback, I can take it, I just want to have an idea of what I want my layout to look like before I sit with a kitchen designer (DH has a limited attention span, and he wants to come with me). I won't even tell you which one I like better and if both of them stink, I'll start again, I just want this to be perfect (I know, I know, how about as close as possible?) I incredibly appreciate all help, and I hope I am putting these pictures in correctly!! I promise to put my finished kitchen in the FKB!

Bottom Floor layout:
[IMG]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb409/cobragirl96/bottomfloorlayout_Page_1.jpg[/IMG]

Floor plan 1 (1 door and seating for 5):
[IMG]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb409/cobragirl96/bottomfloorlayout_Page_2.jpg[/IMG]

Floor plan 2(2 doors and seating for 6):
[IMG]http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb409/cobragirl96/bottomfloorlayout_Page_3.jpg[/IMG]

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clipped on: 03.25.2011 at 03:28 pm    last updated on: 03.25.2011 at 03:28 pm

What was your best bathroom remodeling decision?

posted by: ashlander on 02.19.2007 at 12:40 am in Bathrooms Forum

We're having a difficult time making decisions for our bathroom remodel: choice of shower stall, toilet, flooring, counter, and perhaps even a fireplace. This will be the first and only remodel for our bathroom, so we hate to mess up.
Would appreciate any words of wisdom or advice.
What do you regret? What would you change? What was your best decision concerning the bathroom?

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clipped on: 03.21.2011 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2011 at 09:28 pm

Banquette Seating - love it or hate it?

posted by: chris11895 on 03.04.2011 at 10:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

We're in the process of designing our new home and while brainstorming the kitchen layout my husband floated the idea of banquette seating in a corner. I'm curious to hear feedback from people who have this. Do you love it or hate it? What is it that you like/dislike?
I'm worried the people who will sit on the bench side will feel stuck if they're sitting in between people. :-) But I have a tendency to over think things too. Thoughts are very appreciated!

Oh and if you do have it - I'd love to see your pictures!

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clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 09:19 pm

Do you regret your desk in the kitchen?

posted by: cmm6797 on 01.29.2011 at 07:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

For those of you with built-in desks in your kitchen, do you wish you had used the space for something else or are you thrilled to have it?

I'm reconsidering building a true desk, with space to sit, and thinking it might work just as well to have a simple space - about 30" wide - for phone, mail, laptop computer, cellphone chargers, and some storage for school paperwork. We have a full size desk on the 2nd floor of the house.

For those of you without desks in your kitchen, where do you keep your phone, mail, daily papers that come in from school, etc?

Thank you!

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clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 09:00 pm

RE: Placement and Pathways (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: aloha2009 on 03.06.2011 at 06:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Forgot to mention that the sink and stove will be almost directly opposite each other on either side of the aisle.

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clipped on: 03.06.2011 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2011 at 08:59 pm

Hot water heater for radiant floor heat

posted by: peace_rose on 01.20.2010 at 07:34 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

We are building a 360 sf kitchen/dining room addition to our home. We also dug out a 360 sf basement addition (and cut a hole in the existing basement). For various reasons we cannot use our current furnace to heat the addition (due to awkward duct-work and maxing out the furnace's capabilities).

Option 1 - We can install a Boiler (such as a Laars 84% JVH), with radiant floor heat in the main level and baseboard heat in the basement.

Option 2 - We've also been told that we can tie the radiant floor and baseboards into a water heater. Supposedly, the 350sf upstairs only requires 6,000-10,000 BTU's, and the basement won't require much heat because it's all below grade. Therefore the boiler in Option 1 is WAY more powerful than needed, and a water heater can easily handle this load. Does this sound reasonable? This option is obviously cheaper.

If a water heater is the way to go, I've got several questions:

A. What is the most energy efficient option?
B. Is there any possibility of using our current water heater? (A 50 Gallon Whirlpool Energy Smart Gas Water Heater, installed Jan. 2009)
C. If not, should we use 1 water heater or 2? ie, install a new water heater for the entire house, or just get a small one to fuel the addition? Or perhaps move the Whirlpool to the addition and get a tankless for the rest of the house?

At this point putting radiant heat in the entire house is not an option, only in the new square footage.

Either way, my husband will be doing the work himself (but don't let that scare you; he's very skilled, not your "average DIYer")

Thank you so very much!
peace_rose

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clipped on: 02.16.2011 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2011 at 10:25 pm

Radiant floor heat options for our kitchen?

posted by: worldmom on 01.07.2011 at 04:52 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

We are gutting the kitchen in our 1910 home and in order to gain a workable layout, we have to lose our hot water radiators. Our contractor suggested radiant floor heat, and we've also looked into toe kick heaters.

We have a newish boiler that could handle a hydronic system, (since we're losing the radiators) but I'm worried about having to elevate the kitchen floor to accommodate it. An electric system would be easier to install and wouldn't boost the floor too much, but I've read that they are more expensive to run.

We have one spot in our kitchen where we could reinstall one of our three radiators, but it's not going to be enough to handle 400 square feet on its own. The basement space below the kitchen is mostly unfinished, so we do have access to most of the underside of the subfloor.

We live in Montana, so it does get cold, but our kitchen is south-facing with lots of windows and that helps a bit.

Any thoughts on what our best course might be?

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clipped on: 02.16.2011 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 02.16.2011 at 10:20 pm

Best High-End Appliances?

posted by: Wayfinder on 02.02.2011 at 10:35 pm in Appliances Forum

I'm building a custom home and for once (so grown up) have the luxury of getting any appliances I want.

I want a refrigerator only and a freezer only. Am looking at the Lacanache for my stove. have no idea what to get for a dishwasher.

I'm pretty new to this forum and can't believe how helpful everyone is - so thanks ahead of time.

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clipped on: 02.14.2011 at 09:19 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2011 at 09:20 pm

Which appliances did YOU choose?

posted by: home4all6 on 01.01.2011 at 03:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

As I plot and plan and walk and measure and compute and draw and divide and *conquer* I am constantly plagued by fear of not making the right choices.
Aren't we all???
So I wondered if you all could share your final choices in appliances for your kitchen...as little or as much detail as you'd like to share.
I'll start with my current kitchen, which we've slowly renovated but haven't redone. We are a family of 6, all kids under 6 years old. I am not a hardcore cook, but would love to cook more, and as the kids get older, I'm able to involve them more, which is GREAT!

Fridge: GE Profile FD--w/water in door/not ice (love it)
DW: Bosch integra 800 series--so quiet, no issues
range: Electrolux 30" gas icon--works great, but issues with burners lighting and staying lit
microwave: still the oldy-moldy OTR one--blech...

We bought all at different times, and at closeouts/floor model discounts, so the prices were right :)

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clipped on: 02.13.2011 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 02.13.2011 at 11:09 am

Variables to think about when shopping for cabinets

posted by: aliris19 on 01.31.2011 at 12:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know this must have been delineated but I can't seem to find such a list. Please everyone, help me enlarge this list! I want to lay out all the various tradeoffs and decisions and differences to think about between stock cabinet lines and also stock vs custom cabinets...

I happen to have listed my choice or the seeming GW consensus first where I know it and where there is one, but I've tried to list the options I know about in order to generalize the list. Please feel free to copy the whole list and expand it if you like.

- box construction: dovetail, stapled, there was at least another common, higher-end style...
- box composition: plywood, solid wood, mdf, bamboo, others?
- cabinets and box interiors: birch ply or alder ply or other types -- does it matter??
- door and drawer fronts (also "face frame"): cherry or other wood type
- door front style: shaker v. many, many others
- door front panel composition: solid wood, mdf
- toekick: 3" (my preference); 4" is standard. Stock metric comes closer to 5"!
- counter height: 37" (my preference); 36" is standard - depends on users' height
- cabinet stack construction style: frameless, framed, inset
- hardware type: "Full" motion (is that 20"??); Blum brand is prefered
- hardware location: bottom of box (loose less space)
- hardware niceties: soft-close
- cab interiors: 3/4" ply
- shelving: 3/4" ply
- shelving type: fixed wood, ROTS, pegged height-options
- warranty: "lifetime" -- what does this mean, will the purveyor be around in a "lifetime"?
- finish: catalyzed varnish -- does this go on top of stain?, paint

Please help me improve this list -- expand it or refine it or flesh it out... thanks!!

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clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 02.13.2011 at 10:50 am

running cost of radiant floor heating

posted by: stonitsch on 02.06.2011 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have tried to estimate how much would it cost to run radiant floor heating - pennies a day or dollars a day!! Not the installation, but the actual cost of running it day in and day out. We are putting in ceramic floors in our kitchen and where we have an addition, it's only a crawl space underneat. The floor is always cold there - we live outside Buffalo NY - -

Can someone with some experience give me some insight - does the radiant floors really make a difference in confort, how about heating the room, and what do you figure it cost to run.

THANKS - - -Keep Warm

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clipped on: 02.13.2011 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 02.13.2011 at 10:49 am

Possible cure for second or first floor F/L vibration woes

posted by: monaw on 01.31.2010 at 09:12 am in Laundry Room Forum

I'm about to have a Miele washer/dryer installed on second floor of my home and thought I would share this info/idea with anyone who is searching for possible solutions to the vibration hell that some speak of. First of all we have put a 3/4 inch piece of plywood which is screwed and glued down on top of oak flooring. I intend on using the following treatment other than using plywood instead of oak that this gentlemen did: (the following is copied)

"Heres what we did to solve the noise and vibration problem. I cant take credit for this solution as we read this solution in another review and tried it and it worked for us. I am VERY grateful I found the solution on the Internet. We have a weak floor that vibrated & the washer on spin cycle would travel around the floor due to the vibration. Leveling the washer was NOT enough to stop this problem. We had a local lumberyard cut us three 1"x12" solid oak boards to place on the floor as a solid base for our washer and dryer. We also put a stall mat on top of these boards. A stall mat comes in 4x6 dimensions and is inches thick. Its made of an extremely dense rubber material (one of these mats will weigh 100 pounds or more). The stall mats are available anywhere farm materials are sold. Sometimes they are called cow mats, or horse mats or even barn mats. They are made to cushion the floor for a horse or cow (and can withstand the wear and tear of 1400+ pounds of animal and their hooves and waste each day so theyre VERY durable). I bought ours for less than $40 so its NOT an expensive solution. You can cut the mat to size with a common utility knife. Just lift the edge of the mat and cut the proper width. Its not difficult. Once the washer and dryer are placed on this solid base, you wont have ANY problems with vibration or noise. Even an apartment installation would be adequate to dampen vibration to those below the apartment. It works great. The base looks professional too if you make it to the exact size of the washer/dryer combo".

I will post the results after installation.

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clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 12:26 am    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 12:26 am

Questions for Katieob, Ajard, Blakey, Similar Range Hood Owners

posted by: kitchenkrazed09 on 01.09.2011 at 08:04 am in Kitchens Forum

First of all, let me say that all of your kitchens are in my inspiration folder. I especially love your range hoods. I am planning to order a Modernaire range hood installed in a similar way (against the wall between two cabinets), but with a little different look. (Blakey, I know yours is a Rangecraft. It's beautiful!)

I was wondering, did you have the hood installed before or after the backsplash? Did you encounter any problems installing it the way you did? Did any of you order an internal blower from a different company to use with the hood?

Thanks in advance for any help. Also, thank you for posting your beautiful kitchens as inspiration.

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clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 11:03 am

Some of the best advice from the braintrust on this forum

posted by: gsmama on 02.05.2011 at 11:25 am in Kitchens Forum

I was googling gardenweb and advice last night and came across a great thread that is no longer open but that had been bumped up a few times since it was started by justadncr in 2007 by asking everyone to share the best advice they'd picked up on this forum.

There are a bunch of gems I hadn't run across and wouldn't have even thought to ask or google (...you don't know what you don't know). Plumgold? Never MT? All news to me from reading the thread. I consolidated the info so that I could print it (it would have been a breathtaking 41 pages had I tried to print it straight...) and thought I'd share for other newbies and to maybe get any other additions...

The biggest tip I learned and did as a result was that lumberyards sometimes carry mainstream cabinet lines for less. The place I ordered for carries Dynasty Omega, Shiloh and Meridian and the bulk of their business goes to contractors which helped with the pricing in my case vs. going with a custom cabinet maker--I got a variety of quotes.

With thanks to the OP and everyone who shared, here is their wisdom (please pardon the formatting...my bullets are reading as diamonds with question marks. Oh well.):

Best advice I got from this forum:

� lay the kitchen out on the ground outside with all the measurements and walk around it to see if it felt right. I took my measurements and scraps of wood and laid them out in the various plans I had come up with.
� check out the sound of the fan in the new ovens. I would have been pretty steamed to spend a bunch on a new range and have that sound come blaring out each time I used the oven.
� putting Blumotion on the cabinet doors. This is my favorite feature in our kitchen and the cost was cheap to add these on after the cab install.
� "zones" on this forum, and designed my kitchen around them, with a tremendous amount of help from my forum friends. In my old kitchen, the dishwasher opened across from the island (right into the backs of my legs). Now, the cleanup zone is on the peninsula, the prep area is between the fridge and sink, etc. It's really wonderful.
� No air gap -- most modern dishwashers don't need them, so you don't have to have that extra unattractive "thing" on your countertop. Easy way around that if you need to pass code inspection is to drill the hole for air gap... pop it on for inspection and when they've gone take off the air gap and pop on your soap dispenser. Then put the loop in the hose at the back of your dishwasher...
� Advantium
� Miele dishwasher
� Test tube rack for spice storage
� Lay it out with tape to double check
� advice for setting up a temp kitchen
� Measure from 3 points wall to wall. Had I known this when we remodeled the entire house in 1990, I would now have the room to put in a pro-style range. As it is, I am exactly....1/4" short. Talk about frustrating! Our cabs are in great shape and I love them, but I'm stuck with the 29-7/8" width on the range.
� I really like this that I stole from Dmlove--- I love not having all those cords on my desk/countertop! So best advice from this forum... details make the difference! for now my phone sits over the hole
� pull down (rather than pull out or side spray) faucet
� Bluestar, after asking about the best 30 inch slide-in range
� batch-feed garbage disposals
� adding outlets
� Galaxy Tool Supply for our sink
� NeverMT
� Plugmold
� Wide / shallow cabinet for William Sonoma ultra-thin step stool.
� Airswitch on disposal. Never minded the wall switch, but now that I have a nice backsplash and an island
� Floodstop on icemaker and washing machine.
� I put power into the back of 4 drawers, so each family member has a place to charge the cell phone (or camcorder or whatever) out of sight.
� I also have a false panel behind a niche so that the power / wallwarts / phone wire / wireless access point is hidden. Only the phone sits out exposed. Similar to the idea above, but using depth.
� Don't pack your booze prior to remodeling (this is VERY important! VERY IMPORTANT!)
� Lacanche
� caulk on change of planes verses grout...look at the underside of your cabinets
� plugmold for under the ends of my island so I didn't have to cut outlets into my beautiful cabinets
� integrated drainboard cut into the countertop
� raising the countertop for my wall oven - which gave me a bonus "standing desk" for my laptop
� never thought I could get talked out of gas. So, that is the best advice so far
� I'm a single sink convert, based solely upon the reviews on this website.
� Dh and I made a "never mt" out of tubing bought for $0.46 at Lowes. It's really not very exciting, though. It's clear tubing (like the kind you see on aquariums) attached to the bottom of the soap dispenser thing, and then extends down through the lid and into the bottom of the bottle of soap. (We just drilled a hole in the top of the bottle and shoved the tubing down.) So low tech! The tubing is something like $.23/ foot and we bought 2 feet. Super easy.
� Landing space between appliances
� Aisle clearances
� Wait until its right - the right plan, the right time, the right appliances.
� instant hot water heater
� Getting a 36" range
� baking center
� online resources for sinks and faucets
� the importance of putting functionality first in all design decisions
� how to test granite for durability
� remote blower for hood fan
� single deep fireclay sink
� lots of great online resources for sinks, faucets, etc
� Never NEVER NEVER!!!! Leave your construction site to go on vacation ::scary music:: I MEAN NEVERRRRR!!!!!
� the best (and most costly) is don't settle. You have to live with this kitchen for quite some time. Don't settle! (Even if that means you scrapped the cabinets today, called of the GC for 8 weeks while you order new ones, and you can't live in your home so you have to find somewhere else to live for three months). And maybe Santa won't know where you live!!!
� Pegasus under-cabinet lighting here. Slim, good-looking, very energy-efficient, and reasonably priced.
� I was convinced of the superiority of the Miele cutlery rack
� do not rush..get a good plan in place. Pick what you love ..NOT what the designer loves
� Brizo Floriano/pulldowns in general
� xenon lighting
� Venting
� Tapmaster
� take pictures of everything while your walls are open. It is very helpful to have that photographic record of where electric, pipes, studs etc. actually are. Also, plan for where you want to install pot/wall racks, shelf brackets, etc.--and add extra framing in the walls before they get closed up.
� Get your floor plan right!
� The Franke Orca sink ... to die for.
� Inexpensive but quality Ticor sinks for laundry and prep.
� Plugmold giving me a crisp, clean and outlet-free backsplash.
� The personal, real life stories shared here gave me the confidence to push back at the stoneyard and insist on marble for my island. It pairs beautifully with the soapstone perimeter.
� Bertazzoni range
� White America Quartzite to go with SS
� LED undercabinet lights
� internet and ebay vendor recommendations
� Hancock & Moore leather furniture (from GW furniture forum)
� Microfiber cloths for cleaning SS and granite.
� we had scaled drawings, pictures, and sketches taped to walls and cabinets all over the kitchen. A sketch of the island layout, a drawing with dimensions for light fixtures and switches, a sketch showing the spacing of shelves, a picture of how we wanted plugmold installed - you name it, we had it on a piece of paper and taped on a wall. When we would discuss anything with the electrician, plumber, etc., usually we would show them a drawing or sketch so they would know exactly what we were looking for. Then we would post it on the wall in the kitchen. It may have been slightly annoying to those working there, but it was amazing how much it helped. A number of times after someone screwed something up I would just point to a drawing and they would immediately have to take the blame and offer to fix it. There was never any chance to claim that we never told them or that we had said something else. It was right there on the wall the whole time.
� undercounter light switch for undercounter lights
� tilt-out shoe storage cabinet
� Get hardwoods instead of laminate. Once I investigated I couldn't believe at how little difference in cost between the two (good decent laminate vs. hardwood)
� This is AWESOME! I now have a list of things I had never even heard of to check on...and I thought I was on top of things!
� posters here are willing to share their good and bad experiences so that newbies like me can have a smoother reno.
� Something that I'm slowly realizing as I continue to read the posts here is that, despite the best of planning, something (or things) likely will not go as planned.
� Buy appliances available locally (so service is available), from retailers who will actually stand behind the sale instead of shifting all blame and responsibility to the manufacturer - even when they shipped a defective product. Just finished reading a long thread about someone that bought from an internet retailer, and it was shocking to see the attitude of the retailer. Forget the pre sale promises and assurances from some of these disreputable internet companies who won't be there if you have a problem and just get them locally. No small percentage of savings is worth it if you end up with a defective product shipped and the retailer says it isn't his problem. If you must buy via internet, make sure you get in writing that the product will be shipped defect-free and if there's anything wrong with the unit at all - IMMEDIATELY contest the charge with your credit card company. Don't rely on promises that a minor (or major) problem will be promptly repaired by a service company.
� learning all the lingo was great. When the contractor asked if I wanted plugmold I didn't go "huh?" I think by being knowledgeable before talking to the contractor it helps a lot.
� Knobs vs. Pulls. There have been several discussions of knobs vs. pulls. Some comments:
� Knobs on base cabinets can catch on clothing (and rip sometimes).
� Cabinets/drawers w/pulls can usually be opened w/one finger...even the pinky finger.
� Susan Jablon glass tile. Everyone who comes in my house walks up to my backsplash and has to touch it. I had just about given up the idea of a glass tile backsplash before finding out about her site on this forum. The price of her tile, even with shipping, was about half of what I could have bought it for locally and it is gorgeous!
� No sockets/switches in backsplash (under cabinet plug strip)
� Toe kick on trash pop out BUT... ADD a second spring to add power to the pop (thank you for whoever mentioned this ingenious bit of info)
� Double layered cutlery drawer (secret drawer within a drawer)
� What to look for when choosing undercabinet lighting eg... reflection, spread of light, color of light, heat...
� Benefits of a large farmhouse sink
� Miele dishwasher � superb
� Thermador cooktop and all the controversy about the popup draft and how I could get away with not having one. THANK YOU!
� Miele warming drawer FANTASTIC and thank you for making me realize that it doesn't have to be on the floor under the oven!!!
� PLAN YOUR STORAGE SPACE. measure boxes, measure food processer, mixer, stack of plates etc. etc. then make a note of contents in the drawers or cupboards on your plans or diagrams or in your notes.
� Plug strip under center island.
� ARE NOT ALONE- PEOPLE WHO CARE ABOUT YOUR CD FRIDGE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU and it's OK to really take your time with your decisions
� Orca single sink
� Pot rack in upper cabinet (I think this idea was from loves2cookfor6??)
� Electrical outlet inside a drawer for a charging station
� filling in the gap between the fridge and the cupboard above it with some leftover filler and a piano hinge. Cambro...where did you see this idea? Just yesterday we discovered that we might have a significant gap b/w the top of the refrigerator & the bottom of the cabinet above. Our contractor is just going to use filler to hide the gap, but if we put it on hinges it would actually become usable space!
� knife drawer (I hated that block)
� gel stain
� Getting rid of my ugly phone jack and getting a phone that doesn't need one!
� How to get rid of the drip inside my oven door - with a hanger and a sock going up through the holes at the bottom of the door. Worked like a charm!
� Get a spine when talking to GC about his version vs. my version of cleaning up the jobsite each day (aka our home).
� Use masking tape and a measuring tape and make a mock up of where your new cabinets will go. This is a biggie!
� Dimmer switches! I put them on ALL of the new lighting, including the patio lights adjacent, and have not regretted it once.
� how great Silgranit sinks are to live with. Never even heard of one before GW.
� Buying Sources
o Ticor sinks: Ticor Sinks at Galaxy Tool Supply: http://www.galaxytoolsupply.com/category_s/58.htm
o Tapmaster�: http://www.tapmaster.ca/
o Never-MT: Never-MT: http://custominserts-store.stores.yahoo.net/nevsoapandlo.html
o Pop up Outlets: Popup Mocketts: http://www.mockett.com/default.asp?ID=469
o Plugmold�/Power Strips: http://www.wiremold.com/www/consumer/products/plugmold.asp
o Angle Powerstrip: http://www.tasklighting.com/ap/angle-strip.htm
� Our Vac Pan. Ours is hooked up to a wet/dry vac in the basement because we do not have central vac. The idea came from this forum and our electrician and contractor figured out how to make it happen.
� DIY on gel stain. Thanks Celticmoon and Projectsneverend.
� Soapstone, getting it, finding the right fabricator right here, and caring for it
� where to find a deal on saddle stools
� Kohler Vinnata
� Not to put my cooktop on my island.
� best advice I got was around my budget and how to make the hard decisions on what should stay in and what should go (that was from Beuhl).
� What is not that important to me and doesn't add functionality? [Candidate for elimination altogether]
� What can I do at a later date? [Candidate for deferring until a later date]
� What can't be done at a later date and I can't live without? [Candidate for keeping and doing now]
� This forum helped me see which terms are worth using, and which can be saved for later. This forum helped me get clearer communication going. Resistance could be expressed when I raised ideas; it all helped to refine the concept.
� This forum helped me justify personal innovations. This forum confirmed ideas.
� Tweaking and innovating. I tweaked everything in my kitchen along the way.
� I don't know if I would have a remodeled kitchen if it weren't for this forum. I would have still been looking at the dreadful old one wishing it was nice and not knowing how to get it nice. Even the ideas & photos of things I didn't want for me helped to define what I did want.
� I have to give credit to my carpenter, too. There was a time when his eyes rolled when I said, "but the people on the kitchen forum say......." But I had photos and conversations printed off to show him what I meant.
� Lisalists organized drawers where the dividers go from front to back or side to side so you don't have to nest objects-and you can fit so much stuff in. Easy, easy access. No nesting. Yay
� Layout, efficiency. This has to be the most important thing I've been learning here. What tasks do you perform, what zones will you organize them in, what items do you need close at hand in each zone, how does traffic between and through zones flow. etc.
� Styles, materials, looks. People here have great ''eyes'' for style and looks. My eyes have been opened to these looks, and I've learned the vocabulary to describe them.
� Specific ideas/features I learned about here that seem like they'll be useful: prep sinks, base cabinet drawers, counter top materials other than granite, true convection ovens, unfitted kitchens, under-counter refrigeration.
� Many things, one of which is using a 13-15" depth cabinet for inset cabinets, as 12 is not sufficient.
� Carefully placing all the appliances and storage thinking about what you use with what. For example, I moved the microwave to be next to the refrigerator because we use it mostly for reheating leftovers. I have fridge, prep sink, prep area, range, more prep area on one side and on the other I have prep area/ landing zone (across from fridge), main sink, prep area / dishwasher (across from range, but offset so both people can work) in the island.

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clipped on: 02.05.2011 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2011 at 10:26 pm

What to Specify When Asking for Custom Cabinet Bid

posted by: cairnqueen on 12.20.2010 at 01:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have a custom cabinet maker coming to my house tomorrow to discuss details for building cabinets in my kitchen and bar area and also building bench seating in the breakfast area. I want to make sure that I've covered all the details with him and have everything in writing before I sign a contract and give him a down payment. I've been reading as many threads as possible on this Forum and have picked up lots of great advice on details that need to be considered.

Below is a list of the topics/specifications I've come up with. I'd really appreciate any suggestions/comments/additions you might have. I want to get this project off on the right foot and avoid any issues later on.

Many thanks!

Here's my list:
1. Quarter Sawn Red Oak cabinets in kitchen and bar area.
2. Bench seating (with deep drawers below) and wall shelving in breakfast area.
3. Straight, raised panel design on cabinet doors and drawer fronts.
4. Basic crown moulding.
5. All plywood construction. What thickness?
6. Cabinet interiors. How will they be finished?
7. Full overlay doors.
8. Butt door cabinets wherever possible.
9. All fully adjustable and full depth shelves. How many per cabinet?
10. Full extension drawers and roll-outs. Blum glides.
11. Double cutlery drawer.
12. Dovetail construction of all drawers.
13. Double trash can cabinet.
14. Tilt tray in sink base.
15. Under cabinet lighting. What does this mean from cabinet maker perspective?
16 In bar area, upper cabinets with wood mullions in glass doors. Wood shelves. Under cabinet lighting.
17. Cabinets built and installed.
18. Demolition completed by owner.
19. Insurance carried by contractor?

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clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 10:10 pm

Need Custom Cabinet Recommendations- PA/NY/NJ

posted by: beaglesdoitbetter on 12.27.2010 at 10:25 am in Kitchens Forum

We are about an hour outside Philly, 2 hours outside New York in Reading PA which is very close to Lancaster PA. We just got a quote back from the cabinet person we were given by our builder and it is way way way way high. I am wondering if we'd be able to use a custom cabinet builder to get what we want for a more reasonable cost than this since it seems like everyone here has had good luck with custom people.

If anyone has any recommendations for a cabinet maker around that area that they liked, please post names.

Thanks!

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clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 10:05 pm

Pls help list popular cabinet companies alphabetically

posted by: starpooh on 03.30.2008 at 03:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm trying to put together an alphabetized list of all the popular cabinet companies for an updated FKB checklist. It would include about 30-35 of the companies most-used by members of this forum.

I'll start.
(Please copy the previous list then insert your entry/entries alphabetically. Thank you!)

Crown Point
IKEA
Kitchencraft
Kraftmaid
Quality Custom Cabinetry (QCC)
Schrock
Thomasville
Ultracraft

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clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 09:48 pm

Boxerpups! Frameless inset cabinets photos pretty please!

posted by: cluelessincolorado on 01.23.2011 at 11:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am off on a wild hair here about frameless inset cabinets, but cannot find photographs of kitchen cabinets like this. I have a small kitchen and would like frameless but also really want inset doors and drawers. My buffet is like this, but I can't find any kitchens set up this way. I'm not going to have a modern kitchen, but I'd like to see if they'd fit my 1912 house at all. The cabinets will be quartersawn oak with a soapstone countertop - hopefully anyway! Thanks in advance if you have any photos! I've included a link to my buffet.

Here is a link that might be useful: inset frameless buffet

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clipped on: 02.04.2011 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2011 at 08:01 pm