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RE: Rift only, white oak- finish and finish order ??? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: kaib on 11.02.2010 at 08:04 am in Flooring Forum

I can tell you what I know and what I think I know.

I know you cannot mess Waterlox up without making huge errors (even they are correctable). As I was doing my sample boards I tried to apply too thickly, too thinly, leave dust on and create bubbles with a brush. The dust sanded right off with a very light 100 grit rub, bubbles rarely happened, too thick seemed not to matter (up to a point) and too thin is a non-issue.

I researched some fine posts here for over a year - and I think I know the following: If you're forced to stop a finish (as I also may be), the best place would be the obvious door, room change or shodow line...in our house, that would be the end of the Island going further into the great room.

I'd be inclined to tape off there for an abrupt stop. When time comes to begin the next area, I'd yank the tape, feather the line with 100 grit and finish out the second area. You may notice it, but nobody else will - the biggest thing in my mind is the stain/Waterlox ratio - keep it constant by shaking the stain well always and measuring constantly (I also wouldn't use held over stain for the second run, buy a new can).

I think we'll both be fine with a break. I also will do it at a junction between two dissimilliar (sp) boards.

We will be forced to install cabs before the floor goes down. As the Graff is 5/8", I will underlay the cab footprint with 5'8" ply, leave it proud of the footprint and then come back with a rotozip and cut it beneath the toe kick (this implies I will use shoemould). No issues here, and this insures that the floor, when done, will not have appliances and work traffic.

If ever we sell and new folks want to re-do the Island or cabs, the new owner will, of course, hate me...

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clipped on: 09.22.2011 at 12:33 am    last updated on: 09.22.2011 at 12:33 am

RE: Is toto 1525 really a *soaker* tub? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: marisany on 09.25.2009 at 10:26 am in Bathrooms Forum

I have an Archer in my garage at the moment! I ordered a deck mount, but the display model in the store was an alcove installation. It is very, very comfortable. I started out insisting on cast iron, but along the way changed my mind, and I am happy with acrylic now. As you probably know, the depth to overflow is quite high compared to the height of the tub, because of the unusual drain. The tub is easy to step into.

I believe that the term "soaker" is used to distinguish tubs that do not have jets. I'm not sure it really implies depth.

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clipped on: 09.08.2011 at 04:59 am    last updated on: 09.08.2011 at 05:00 am

RE: Is toto 1525 really a *soaker* tub? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: alabamanicole on 09.25.2009 at 05:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If you go acrylic and want deep, another option would be the Lasco Dossi series, which goes up to 23" deep in 32" (DOSSI 32 Q) and 30 3/4" (DOSSI 30 Q) widths.

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clipped on: 09.08.2011 at 04:59 am    last updated on: 09.08.2011 at 04:59 am

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: ashlander on 06.13.2007 at 03:14 am in Bathrooms Forum

I "did my homework." I read all your comments and included the following in our bathroom:
Panasonic fan w/heat on timer (so quiet)
Thermobalance valves, but they aren't set correctly (Please advise, DMLove or someone else)
Cultured granite with frameless shower door
36" height vanities with outlets in cabinets
Toto comfort height toilet
Grohe rain shower head (A-a-h, JOY!)
I/we owe our bathroom to all of you who posted above. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

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clipped on: 09.08.2011 at 04:51 am    last updated on: 09.08.2011 at 04:51 am

RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #27)

posted by: arlinek on 03.06.2007 at 06:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Oh, that's easy! The one I eventually got was the Broan (partner co. with Nutone), model # is: 52WH344DPF. This happens to be 34" high, but I liked it's looks and it was quite a bit less $$ than one of its competitors: Robern, which is a "higher-end" company that makes beau. cabs, also. But, their price is around $500-$600, instead of, say $200 +. Go to HomeClick.com and type in "medicine cabinets" and you'll start to get an idea of what's really out there. Robern even makes cabs that are 39" High! You just have to make sure you read the details as the variables are tremendous - ht. X width X depth (4"? 6"?), flush mounted on wall?, surface mounting?, if you want a wider one, will your opening allow it, or is there going to be electrical in the way, pipes, etc. ? Make sure you place it where YOU can reach the top level shelf and not the carpenter's reach!! Do you want only one interior mirror? or two (2nd one behind the shelving)? Doors are usually reversible, but you must take into consideration if the door is going to hit anything when opening it too wide. My hinges open 170 degrees, but I really only needed 90 degrees, but had no choice. So, I have to be careful not to swing the door open with great enthusiasm or I might hit the adjacent mirror. But, that's not a prob. for me; I'm always conscientious about it and it doesn't swing wildly open anyway, it's on the "tight" side so I'd really have to PUSH it firmly to make it hit the other mirror. There are several co's, as I said, that make these extra tall versions - it's all about choosing the details that YOU want and need. Want the sides to have narrow mirror strips? You can do that too. Want lights surrounding it? Want an interior elec. outlet? It does become a little overwhelming - as usual, how far do you want to go and how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a link that might be useful: Pic of MY 34

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clipped on: 09.08.2011 at 04:43 am    last updated on: 09.08.2011 at 04:43 am

RE: Best type of flooring for dogs (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.18.2009 at 08:49 pm in Flooring Forum

You want bulletproof? Forget the hardwoods and laminates. They'll get scratched to hell in no time. Vinyls will wear out relatively fast as well. The ONLY flooring I'd recommend for families with multiple pets is porcelain with epoxy grout. Completely nonabsorbent, and for the most part, stain free, and so it's completely cleanable when "mistakes" happen, and there's no way in HELL that their claws will do anything to either the porcelain OR the epoxy grout. When I say bulletproof, I'm not exaggerating.

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clipped on: 09.02.2011 at 02:01 am    last updated on: 09.02.2011 at 02:01 am

RE: Does This Tile Mosaic Look Right To You -- Pictures (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: applepie61 on 11.10.2009 at 02:07 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Jewelldday: Thank you so much - I'm so happy with the end result. The tile is from Ann Sacks Tile. On the floor is the white thassos w/ming green basketweave, ming green mini-bricks & white thassos on the perimeter. On the walls in the shower is white thassos 6 x 12 & a thassos & ming green mosaic liner called Agape. Another company I liked was Akdo Tile - they have lot's of great stone mosaics too. Goodluck and post some pictures when you can!

Flyleft: My tile contractor was pleasant but not thrilled. He screwed up my subway tile backsplash in the kitchen and I think maybe he was feeling bad about that - not sure (posted a thread about that topic on the kitchen forum). It was a big relief when it was grouted and done:)

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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 02:17 am    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 02:18 am

RE: Mixing cheap tile with expensive tile (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sweeby on 04.08.2009 at 10:35 am in Bathrooms Forum

Here are pictures of my two new baths mixing very inexpensive field tile with expensive trims. In both baths, the creme-colored tiles were under $3/SF.

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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 01:50 am    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 01:50 am

RE: Beekeeper's Wife -- Question about your kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 03.23.2011 at 09:02 am in Kitchens Forum

Sure! Here you go:
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Not an "after" picture, but a "during", this would be from the sink/stove corner:
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This is from the corner to the left of the range, near the laundry room door, facing the family room:
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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 01:35 am

RE: Anyone tired of their white subway tile backsplash yet? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: chana_goanna on 07.27.2010 at 03:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sabjimata:

1. When will you be posting your comleted pics? I can't WAIT to see your kitchen. (Or did I miss it somehow?)

2. Please post a link to your blog; our tastes seem very similar and I'm sure your blog would be a goldmine of ideas for me.

Gina: I personally find subway tile much more interesting with a darker grout, like so:

The trick here is to space the tiles very close together and use a medium-to-dark gray grout, not black, which would be too stark a contrast.

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clipped on: 09.01.2011 at 01:22 am    last updated on: 09.01.2011 at 01:22 am

RE: Overstock.com?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: saune on 03.23.2011 at 09:45 pm in Lighting Forum

We, too, are building with a lighting allowance. We, too, got lots of catalogs from our builder, but I found 90% of our lights online. Coincidentally, I bought a chandelier for my daughter's room on overstock. Shipping was very quick, no issues, and although it is not installed yet, I love it! I have also ordered from bathkitchendecor.com (slow but least expensive), lnt.com (linens n things - quick), csnlighting.com (lightning fast - one day), lampsplus.com (tbd), and lightinguniverse.com (tbd). It's great to have so much variety, but so much variety leads to too many choices. Lots of hours of looking, but all fun! Good luck!

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clipped on: 08.28.2011 at 03:48 am    last updated on: 08.28.2011 at 03:49 am

RE: Wood Countertop Failure -- DIY top hope? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bobsmyuncle on 08.12.2011 at 11:53 am in Woodworking Forum

Waterlox is a varnish, and a good one. It is not tung oil, it is varnish. Varnish is made by heating oil(s) with resin(s). Waterlox happens to use tung oil as its oil and phenolic as its major resin. It is similar to baking a loaf of bread, once it is baked, it is no longer its components, but takes characteristics of its components. When was the last time you saw a loaf of bread labeled "flour," and goes on to describe a unique blend of flour, yeast, water, and fine oils? That's what the finish manufacturers are trying to do. You have to look long and hard at Waterlox's label and web site, but you will find the following paragraph that I've quoted here (emphasis mine):

PERFORMANCE HIGHLIGHTS
By definition, a varnish, with a few exceptions, contains resins as essential constituents. Further, varnishes
dry by the evaporation of its volatile constituents, by the oxidation or chemical reaction of other constituents
or partly by both. We view our Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes as �phenolic modified Tung oil-based
varnishes�
. By design, our original formulas are low solids solutions (high solvent percentages), engineered
to offer the most desirable combination of wood penetration and protective film build. The solids portion of
our finishes is made up of 85% Tung oil and 15% resin, rosin and driers. While many make untrue product
claims, Waterlox has never made any claims that we manufacture anything but a varnish. Our varnish is
however a truly unique blend of Tung oil and resin that showcases the natural beauty of wood, providing
lasting, durable protection.

Here is a link that might be useful: mythbusting oil finishes

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 07:42 pm

RE: Anyone familiar with Cumaru? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: sf_treat on 01.08.2007 at 10:18 pm in Flooring Forum

We installed Cumaru in most of our 3,300 sq ft home last year. We love it. It is very unique and strong. We took most of the darker planks out, so ours is more uniform light red in color. Also, they started cupping about two months after we got them, b/c we were having a terribly dry year. The installers came out and sanded and refinished (can't think of the word right now) them and they have been perfect ever since. I don't even notice that much color change, but I have been too busy chasing my kids around to really notice.

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 06:02 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 06:02 pm

Refinishing 100 yr old white pine floor

posted by: Yardley on 07.14.2011 at 02:52 pm in Flooring Forum

Hello! We recently purchased our first home, a 100+ year old cozy little town house with great wide plank pine floors. A local restored wood place from which we ordered a few replacement planks told us it is white pine. The living room floor is in pretty rough shape compared to the rest of the house and we want to have it refinished. I've had two floor guys come take a look and they've both suggested polyurethane, seems like that's the standard. I'd love to hear suggestions as to how to go about refinishing the floor and what products to use. I don't want anyone to damage these beautiful old floors! We also want them to look as close to the rest of the house as possible after they're refinished. Here is a picture of the living room floor now, this is the section we're going to repair with the restored wood planks.

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 05:42 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 05:42 pm

RE: tung oil finish on pine - any thoughts on maintenance? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: baton_rouge on 07.22.2005 at 04:12 pm in Flooring Forum

No, I would not use Murphys Oil Soap to clean your oiled floors. I use a barely damp mop to mop all my wood floors, nothing else. I dip my mop into a bucket of warm water and wring out the mop until just damp, then go over the floor lightly with the mop. In between the damp mopping, I just use a regular dust mop. Once or twice a year, I use cup Spic and Span to 1 gal. warm water to clean my kitchen floor. In the rest of the house (all bathrooms and laundry room are tiled) I just dust mop and occasionally use a damp mop on those floors. I see no reason to buy all those "special" cleaners to clean your floor and have never had a problem with the way I take care of my floors and I am pretty fussy about my floors but not obsessed with them.

No, oiled floors are not a dust & dirt magnet! The tung oil soaks into the wood, there is no oily residue left on your floors. Just a beautiful matte finish. Also, I have never had a problem with water spotting. If water is spilled on my floors, the water beads up.

The reason I stated use 100% tung oil, some tung oil products have additives such as VARNISH. I would stay away from varnish. My floor finisher added mineral spirits to thin the tung oil before he applied it. He did all this (4 coats) on his hands and knees with rags after first staining my floor.

Elizabeth Anne

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 04:35 pm    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 04:35 pm

RE: Looking for lower price on Crossville Tile (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: bob_cville on 11.07.2007 at 05:39 pm in Flooring Forum

Followup:

I've just started looking for tile for a backsplash and found an online place to purchase Crossville tile. I haven't checked back at the local tile store to see whether they now have a lower price, but the same tile I got locally for $8.64/sq ft, is available at http://www.crossvilletileitnow.com/index.html for $4.38/sq ft :-(

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 03:16 am    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 03:16 am

RE: Sherwin Williams vs. Ben. Moore vs. Behr (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: decorativewalls on 11.26.2008 at 08:58 am in Paint Forum

Aura would be my first choice. Just pick one of the other colors from the color preview deck or the classic deck and have them mix in the aura bases if you don't find an affinity color you like.

You can also opt for BM - Regal 100% acrylic line.
I prefer matte finish or eggshell.

Trim- BM- waterbase impervo

SW- Superpaint
SW- ProClassic for trim

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 01:35 am

RE: Sherwin Williams vs. Ben. Moore vs. Behr (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: vanyali on 11.09.2006 at 11:42 am in Paint Forum

First of all, any paint shop can match just about any color from any other manufacturer. 99% of the time, they can match it by the brand and the color name. 1/2% of the time they will need the number of the color on the color card. 1/2% of the time they will need the color card itself and they'll use their color-matching machine. It works just fine, I've done it a lot. You should not choose your paint brand by color. Color is a completely separate issue.

As for brands, I won't use anything other than Benjamin Moore any time I'm going to be painting with a brush (such as on trim or paneling). I prefer their water-borne Satin Impervo for it's nice leveling (the paint goes on flat, so you don't see the brush strokes as much). The Sherwin Williams paint I've tried does not self-level at all. I bought their scrubbable Duration paint, and I really don't like how it brushes on at all. Duron paint is horrible stuff, don't touch it. I've thrown the stuff away it's so bad. Behr tends to be thin, so you'd need to put on more coats, but other than that I don't know anything wrong with it.

When using a sprayer or roller, you generally don't have to be as picky (thinner paint is better for a sprayer anyway). The Sherwin Williams rolls on fine, as does the Benjamin Moore. The Behr is thinner, as I've said, so you might need to put up a third coat, especially if you're putting up a dark color or a red or something like that. But in general it'll be OK. Don't forget to prime first -- it really helps adhesion.

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clipped on: 08.26.2011 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 08.26.2011 at 12:13 am

RE: ceramic powder paint additive--really insulating? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mikie on 09.17.2007 at 12:34 pm in Paint Forum

I painted the exterior of the house here white ... kept track of temperature changes and heat retention.
Goal was reducing the power bill.

My experience is Ceramic stuff Works! on the exterior.

Concrete Block and Stucco.. To me the want was to give up the heat fast, and reflect it off the wall too so the wall has the least heat gain. Premix does that I would say, extremely well. All of its ingrediants apparently are chosen with the idea of reflecting and disipating heat quickly. Premix works much better than just mixing some gray dust into KillZ anyhow.

I started off py painting sample wall areas with KillZ primer - plain primer, and areas with added ceramic spheres.
Shot them with a heat gun off and on through the day and night - took my time, several weeks of experimenting.
Spheres added to KillZ primer was no competition for areas painted with Ceramic Force primer - from National Coatings, which is local here.

Digital watt hour meter and lots of measuring surface wall temps.. both inside and outside, told me that stuff really does work.

When I painted the front of the house, which is the south wall. Power Company Meter showed a 3kwh per day drop instantly, from just that south wall, mid summer.

Painting with that stuff will sunburn me way fast too, even in the shade. I'm fixing to order some interior paint for the ceilings. Maybe the walls too. Make it all white I dont have to worry so much about edging and splatters ;)

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:51 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:51 pm

RE: Help with paint basics - brands, finishes, prices (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: decorativewalls on 02.28.2010 at 01:47 pm in Paint Forum

I would agree with all paintguy has said. Ben Moore is my choice of paints all around with a few more. If you are on a tight budget I don't see a see wrong with looking into Valspar premium or their signature line for your INTERIOR. Both are really acceptable and the eggshell sheen is also a nice choice. Painters (like me) just like going to individual stores where we can also shoot the bull sometimes, in addition we do get a discount and some painters feel like there is more up to date knowledge there. Well that is true and not so true. Depends if they just hired the person from the garden section at Wal Mart trying to answer customer's questions when they come in. Sometimes believe it or not you can find some really knowledgeable paint counter techs at the home centers. So you be the final judge on your budget and what you can comfortably be happy with.

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:46 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:46 pm

RE: Oil over latex (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gwilson2 on 08.25.2011 at 02:05 am in Paint Forum

first, scrap off loose paint, wipe with bleach, use an oil base primer (zinnser is my pick), caulk, fill nail holes, sand and clean, then apply your oil base paint.

I agree, oil base paint on cabinets is way better.

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:38 pm

RE: Stucco home - penetrating masonry stain or elastomeric paint? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sierraeast on 08.31.2010 at 04:22 pm in Paint Forum

I would apply an acrylic or elastomeric topcoat. It is trowled on and wet brushed in tight areas. It comes in 5 gallon buckets similar to paints and you add the color of choice to the mix. If the existing topcoat is heavy textured, you will want to scrape or grind that down fairly flat for a workable surface. The acrylic or elastomeric topcoats you cant texture heavily, but you can light texture such as an "old world". It remains flexible and gives throughout the year with temperature changes and is bullet proof with little or no cracking. It's like having a rubber membrane on your walls! Here's a few links, we have STO on our build and are happy with it so far.

Here is a link that might be useful: Coatings

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:34 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:34 pm

Help - does new stucco exterior need to set before paint?

posted by: ctreno on 05.02.2010 at 05:42 pm in Paint Forum

I just read somewhere else on internet that you should give new stucco 2-3 months to "cure" (harden) before painting. Can anyone give input on this before my builder begins painting exterior?

Also, if you have old stucco that was previously painted and new stucco, I assume I need to paint? I have been reading about acrylic and cementitious paints. Any idea what I should do?

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 11:31 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 11:31 pm

RE: Aluminum Windows? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: modern_miss on 08.12.2009 at 11:17 pm in Windows Forum

I've been doing the same research for the last month. Here's what i found:

International window Corp (IWC)
MI Windows (a.k.a. BetterBuilt)
Superior Windows
Milgard Aluminum
Fleetwood USA
Bonelli (in South San Francisco)
Gerkin (midwest)
Torrance Aluminum (Southern Cal)
Western Window Systems (AZ)
Lanai Windows SoCal
World West Inc.
Sunview Doors (Toronto)
Heritage Window Systems
Blomberg (Sacramento)
Oceanside Aluminum (San Diego)
All Weather Architectural (Vacaville)
Metal Window Corp (Southern Cal)
LaCantina (soCal)
VistaWall (commercial)
Arcadia (commercial & residential)
DeSCo (midwest)
All Weather (Texas)
Peerless (midwest)
NewTec Windows (IL)
Boyd (midwest)
Thermal Windows (OK)
StoreFrontDoors.net/Kawneer (commercial)
and there's another company in SoCal who makes beautiful windows and lift and slide doors...I can't recall their name...starts with a W i think...very expensive

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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 01:40 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 01:40 pm

RE: Fleetwood aluminum pocket windows (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: lorraineal on 07.07.2006 at 12:30 am in Windows Forum

IIRC the Fleetwood website touts each window's U-factor. The ones we used were truly quite good for aluminum.

I actually went to the Fleetwood factory in Riverside where they have a showroom featuring their different styles of doors and windows. AFA being hard to open, they have an option (something like a maxi-wheel or some-such) that allows their sliders to open with the touch of a finger. It adds a fair chunk of change to the cost so we didn't go for it, but it would have been nice. As it is, our 4'x8' panels do take a bit of push to get going, but nothing heroic.

Condensation is not an issue with So. Cal's low humidity so I can't help you there.

They really are a very good quality window company - and their pricing reflects that.

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Fleetwood windows
clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 01:11 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 01:12 pm

Pip's Finished Kitchen! Lots of pics

posted by: pip on 12.21.2010 at 08:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to the many inspiring kitchens and knowledgeable people on this site, we just finished our 5 week remodel of our kitchen. The collective wisdom on this site helped us so much during the remodel!

The previous kitchen had been remodeled within the last 10 years, but it was separated from the rest of the home and lacked sufficient counter space for a family of four. We decided to tear down the wall that separated the kitchen and laundry room and expand into the dining room to give us more counter space. The windows in the corner were too low to run counters and that proved to be a design challenge. Instead of raising the windows which would have altered the architecture of the exterior of the home, we decided to make the area a banquette. We also moved the old doorway off the foyer and created two larger arches which open up the kitchen to the living and dining room.

The space was too small for an island, so we had our counter top fabricator make us a work table that is movable -- it has wheels and we can roll it out of the way if we want to open up the kitchen.

Details:
Cabinets - custom by Los Angeles cabinetmaker - maple shaker style (bar area is espresso finish)
Countertops - Madre Perla quartzite
Backsplash - White onyx staggered tile
Faucet - KWC Eve
Sink - Franke
All KitchenAid appliances, except for GE profile microwave Vent-a-hood
Lighting - onxy pendants purchased at Lighting Emporium
Pulls - Great Indoors
Floors - White Oak hardwoods to match the rest of the home
Paint- Martha Stewart "Fossil"

Before:
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During:
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After:
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and, of course, a photo of Pip himself, enjoying his new kitchen...
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Love the backsplash
clipped on: 08.23.2011 at 02:35 am    last updated on: 08.23.2011 at 02:36 am

RE: Finished Modern Kitchen (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tanem on 03.25.2011 at 12:53 am in Kitchens Forum

Paper towel holder-simple human
pantry- Rev-a-shelf
drawer dividers- I got the idea on this forum. I had the cabinet maker do alot of these, depending on the use of drawer.


PhotobucketPhotobucketaction=view&current=DSC_0131.jpg" target="_blank">PhotobucketPhotobucket

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clipped on: 08.22.2011 at 01:13 am    last updated on: 08.22.2011 at 01:13 am

RE: Finished Modern Kitchen (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: tanem on 03.26.2011 at 11:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks so much for your kind words!
Quartzite- Nambia Sky -Originally planned on Luce di Luna but they did not have enough. It has been great! no staining or etching.

I was worried about water splashing on the block behind main sink, but there is so much space it has not been a problem.Photobucket

The concrete block is by trendstone. It is concrete with aggregate added and then polished. The walls were suppose to be done with rock from the property which would have been beautiful, but a budget breaker. this was a less expensive alternative.PhotobucketPhotobucket

I love the butcher block. I changed to end grain at the last minute. I always planned on actually chopping on it, but had a hard time doing so to such a beauty. My Dad has been staying with us the winter and he solved the problem!PhotobucketPhotobucket

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clipped on: 08.22.2011 at 01:10 am    last updated on: 08.22.2011 at 01:11 am

Finished Modern Kitchen

posted by: tanem on 03.25.2011 at 12:46 am in Kitchens Forum

This is a new build and the cabinetry is almost a year behind schedule...long story. I'm just figuring out how to post pictures which I have not downsized. I found so many great ideas on this forum! I'll give the details I can remember off-hand, further details I will have to look up.

Countertops: polished Quartzite on island (can't remember the exact name), honed Basaltina on the perimeter

Kohler sinks -main sink is a smart divide. I switched between the smart divide and the Rohl fireclay single bowl twice. Very happy with the smart divide.

Hansgrohe faucet at prep, Dornbracht at main-both have Dornbracht soap dispensers. I put dish soap at main sink and hand soap at prep (I added the prep sink dispenser after-the-fact and highly recommend.

Pulls, top knobs

Cabintery-custom walnut veneer. I'm happy with my frameless cabinets, but my cabinet maker has more than tried my patience. He does great work, but I moved into my 4 month over schedule build with only cabinet boxes (throughout my whole house).

Butcher block-end grain walnut- I am chopping directly on it and love it!

Bar stools-From Crate and Barrel -They swivel, but not fast and they don't show fingerprints. Have been great for children!

I'm going to post more pictures showing the great ideas I got from this forum. Thanks for answering questions and posting pictures!

Photobucket
Photobucket

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clipped on: 08.22.2011 at 01:02 am    last updated on: 08.22.2011 at 01:03 am

RE: How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality) (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: debbiesull on 06.23.2011 at 07:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used IKEA's Nexus Birch boxes, doors, drawers, and Klippig stainless handles; several of the cabinets became the foundation of a huge island (IKEA's stainless UTBY adjustable legs were an absolute godsend for an incredibly low price to support the granite along with the cabinets), granite counters purchased locally, two of IKEA's Melodi pendant lights above the island, Kitchenaid appliances, sink from Galaxy Tool and Delta faucet. We also used several drawer and cabinet inserts from IKEA. We were on a budget; the cabinets came to about $ 6000 - we had a lot.

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clipped on: 08.21.2011 at 03:12 am    last updated on: 08.21.2011 at 03:12 am

RE: How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dianalo on 06.23.2011 at 11:55 am in Kitchens Forum

We got our cabs and Corian counters from Ikea. Since we used vintage hardware and non-Ikea appliances & lighting, I don't think anyone would know we got them from Ikea (assuming we did not brag about it, lol).
To me, Ikea cabs are like a little black dress than be dressed up or down according to accessories. The floor choice, bs, appliances, hardware, etc... give the kitchen its look. Our cabs provide a backdrop, just as they were going to when we picked the style from another brand. Luckily, we found GW and decided to visit Ikea with an open mind. We found the same style we wanted elsewhere for a fraction of the cost. I shudder to think that we could have spent so much more because with all the unexpected expenses, we barely squeaked by as it was. We saved approx $13k on cabs. They were running a 40% off counter sale at the time we ordered, so got our premium Corian (Rain Cloud) for the price of the cheapest granites (which we did not like). With counters, we came in for half of what we would have paid for cabs alone.... That enabled some other splurges and also to simply get through in one piece without breaking the bank.

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clipped on: 08.21.2011 at 03:06 am    last updated on: 08.21.2011 at 03:06 am

How To Use Ikea to Get a Custom Kitchen (High Quality)

posted by: davidro1 on 06.22.2011 at 07:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

this subject needs a thread of its own.

you can use Ikea
to save on costs, and
to get almost everything you could want... because Ikea leaves you with enough money to go get those things you really want, at another place.

Get from Ikea those parts and piece that you wish to use Ikea for, and buy the rest from other sources.

Example.
1/. buy the ikea bases
and
2a/. buy ikea-compatible drawer fronts and base cabinet doors from Scherr's and many others, or
2b/. make your own, or
2c/. hire a cabinet maker to make custom cabinet doors and drawer faces

Many people who say they got it at ikea did not buy their entire kitchen from ikea.

Many people who say they have Ikea, did not buy their entire kitchen there.

For those who don't know this, it needs to be said.
Ikea is never the place to go to, to get an entire kitchen.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get most of the things you need.
Ikea is the place to go to, to start your comparison shopping.
Ikea is the place to go to, to get ideas.

Hth

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clipped on: 08.21.2011 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 08.21.2011 at 03:03 am