Clippings by jimengele

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Home made trailers and baggers?

posted by: archangel2003 on 05.30.2009 at 09:59 pm in Tractors Forum

First off, the trailer.
The prices of the trailers out there are not appealing.

I already have the design to build a 4 foot long, 3 foot wide with 14 inch-ish high sides trailer and I'm only lacking the one sheet of 3/4 inch plywood it will take to build it, and a long day to fabricate.

Hauling any dirt, gravel, sand or any other landscaping items in the wheel barrel is no longer something I want to do.

Now, I got the Sears 24 hp DYS 4500 and the wimpy T2 Hydromatic (more about the dual bagger later) and would like to know how much it can pull on flat ground?

All the book tells me is to "Fallow the manufacturers recommendation for weight limits for towed equipment" but fails to be specific.

Now, about the bagger.
I have the 2 bag, soft side bagger and not only does it seem to focus on the left bag mainly and only overflow to the right one, it fill up so damn fast I need to get something bigger.
I can fill both bags in 2 minutes or less!

I was thinking of covering the trailer and making it be a trailer/bagger.

I have see some mowers pictured that had flexible tubing to go from the blades to the bagger, but don't know where they get it from!

I also figured that if I made a solid lid, I could install one of the flex bags on the top as a vent on the trailer/bagger.

If not, does someone know if there is there some kind of breathable fabric like the baggers are made out of that I can use to cover the top?

OH, also, does anyone have any links to trailer baggers and home made trailers for lawn equipment?


clipped on: 09.30.2013 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2013 at 02:47 pm

Battery overcharging

posted by: Pusher on 07.30.2013 at 10:46 pm in Tractors Forum

Looking for assistance regardnig a Briggs and Stratton 422707 1214 01 lawn trractor engine. About three weeks ago I mowed the lawn and shut the tractor off. When I restarted the tractor about 15 minutes later the battery exploded (took the top right off of it). The battery was about 3 years old with no prior starting or running issues. After cleaning the tractor and replacing the battery, I placed a volt meter on it and recorded about 14 volts at the battery with the tractor running full speed. Being curious about what caused the battery to explode, I checked the voltage again last night and received a reading of 16 volts at the battery. I suspect the voltage regulator might be shot, however, could not locate one on the engine. The parts diagram lists a voltage regulator but I can't locate it.


clipped on: 09.25.2013 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 09.25.2013 at 12:33 pm

MTD tractor

posted by: jimengele on 09.10.2013 at 06:40 pm in Tractors Forum

I have the option to have a tractor for free if I can fix it. There are a bunch of problems with it that I think I have correctly identified and come up with solutions. Some of those I would like to run by the forum to see what others think starting with the biggest problem, the transmission.

I was test driving this "free" tractor, and It ran fine. I drove around a bit and then I was having trouble going into neutral and then forward. When I finally did move forward, I heard a crunching sound and the transmission case busted open. I have since taken it apart after watching youtube videos and looking up the parts diagram online. The part that broke, is a bolt that holds the 'spider' gears of the differential together. The bolt is broken right where the threads are and I can't find a nut or the broken off part anywhere(I have the bolt with aluminum washer). This actually seems like an easy fix to me. I think I can just put a bolt in there with washers on either end, locktite the nut on it, make sure it's short enough that it won't hit the casing. I'm wondering two things: Can it really be that simple, and: what caused the bolt to break in the first place? There shouldn't be any torque on these gears, they float freely transferring power from one side to the other as needed right?
Unfortunately, the parts diagrams online don't show the differential parts, they only list the differential as a whole, $190. The broken casing I am JB welding back together and maybe some fiberglass reinforcing over the outside (the upper half is undamaged, only the bottom case is broken).

MTD 13ag675g033
transmission: 618-0163A

I will post pictures if needed.


clipped on: 09.11.2013 at 05:23 pm    last updated on: 09.11.2013 at 05:24 pm

RE: Craftsman rider safety switches (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mownie on 04.08.2013 at 12:25 am in Tractors Forum

You stated: ***" So the blade/PTO switch should be closed only when the blade/PTO is disengaged. And the clutch switch should be closed only when the clutch is depressed. Which is the way they are working now. So those two seem OK, right?"***
Yes, that is correct. But none of that would have any effect on the grounding of the magneto (grounding it kills the spark).
I find it odd that the model number 536.270282 wiring diagram is so different than what you report observing on the actual machine. Needless to say that makes it near impossible to guide you in a step by step fashion.
At this point I suggest you systematically separate wires from suspect switches until you no longer see continuity between the kill wire terminal at the coil and a known good ground point on the chassis.
You will not actually have the machine running to test the switches and their condition, but you will have to place the controls for each switch as if you were running the machine. Meaning: key in RUN, clutch up, PTO engaged and seat occupied (or heavily weighted)
It is also possible that the gremlin you are hunting is a chafed place somewhere along the kill wire that is touching a grounded surface. If the coil kill wire shows continuity to ground with ALL switches (including key switch) disconnected it is a good indicator of a short to ground somewhere in the kill wire circuit instead of a defective switch.
And it does appear that the seat switch connector is the "shorting type" meaning that when it is separated from the switch, it grounds the kill wire and stops the engine. That function is there to thwart people who would unplug the seat switch to defeat the safety interlock system. So you might need to study that connector to see if the shorting pin can be manually deactivated to test the seat switch wiring. Usually, there is a tab on the connector that is held open by a mating surface on the switch when the connector is attached to the switch, when the connector is unplugged, the tab lifts allowing the wires to short inside the connector. Unless you can deal with that you won't be testing the circuit accurately.


clipped on: 09.05.2013 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2013 at 01:50 pm