Now for the much more appealing after:

Additional photos are at the link below. Details:

- 100% DIY, completed for just over $2600
- Wall tile: Dal-Tile subways from HD with Delorean Gray grout
- Floor tile: Carrera marble hex tile from ebay, same grout
- Tub: Original, and unfortunately, you can tell
- Sink: Lowe's
- Sink Faucet: Price Pfister Ashfield in Satin Nickel - a waterspot MAGNET
- Medicine Cabinet: Lowe's
- Vanity light fixture: Commercial Electric, HD
- Soap holder over sink: vintage, ebay
- Polished Nickel cup and toothbrush holder: Restoration Hardware
- Shower fixtures: Peerless
- Wall paint: Dutch Boy Route 66
- Trim: Behr Creamy White

As always, many thanks to everyone on these boards for all your fantastic inspiration and insights.

Here is a link that might be useful: Additional photos of our new bathroom

Turned out that person had copied the design from another fabulous bathroom, here: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/gal0918581211576.html

I fell truly madly deeply in love with the whole concept, and my husband and I just finished our new bath, with the same floor, same paint color, and very similar wall treatment. We absolutely could not be more thrilled with the result, and I wanted to come and show it off to y'all!

Vanity and medicine cabinet: Strasser
Bathtub: Kohler Lakewood
Fixtures: Kohler Fairfax
Toilet: Toto

Here is a link that might be useful: Our bathroom before and after

Here is my new powder room...

... the copycat floor tile:

...this mosaic border is actually a little different than the inspiration bath:

Materials:

Kohler Revival sink, toilet, accessories
Rohl faucet
Rejuvenation medicine cabinet & light
BM "Lavender Ice" paint
Adex white crackle subway tile
Ming green mosaic tile from Short Hills Marble & Tile in NJ

... and here's a link to the original inspiration bath. Anna, if you're still out there, THANK YOU!!!

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/gal0918581211576.html?24

You can prime it with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1 2 3 water base or Zinsser BIN, which is alcohol base. Sanding not required, but I suggest a light sanding with #180 grit sandpaper. Oil base not required.

Coat it with at least two coats of quality paint using a 1/4" woven roller available at Sherwin Williams. An eggshell finish will look nice on there.

To paint the grooves, use a 11/2" skiff brush. Paint the grooves first, then roll.

It's pretty simple. You can make your wife happy here. Don't let her down.

Michael

Of course getting some new furniture helped too. ;)

I've cross posted this on both the Home Decorating and Kitchen Forums and will check both for responses.

The situation...

We're finishing a major remodel and are now facing that daunting task of selecting and installing kitchen cabinets. To say that it's overwhelming is an understatement.

What we've decided to do is to custom build the cabinets and finish them on site. We would like a painted rather than stained finish and are hoping to get some advice and/or experiences from those of you who have painted your cabinets.

We have been searching the web for advice on the topic but haven't found exactly what we're looking for yet.

The type of kitchen we are hoping to emulate is the "Scullery" kitchen by Christopher Peacock. The web site show this style painted white. We know that Peacock hand-finishes the cabinets on site, but that's all we've been able to find out. We don't know what brand of paint they use, whether it's latex, oil based, or pigmented laquer etc. Honestly, we have never seen one of his kitchens in person, but after viewing his web site, I have to believe that his product has a great finish.

http://www.peacockcabinetry.com/kitchens_scullery.html

So, we are now looking to the GardenWeb community to share your experiences with painting kitchen cabinets. Could you please share:

1. What wood are your cabinets made of (or MDF)?

2. What brand and type of paint have you used -- water-based or oil-based? Why did you choose it?

3. Did you use a top coat and, if yes, what type (lacquer, polyurethane)? How has it held up?

4. What was the process?

I was on the Farrow & Ball web site and their Oil Eggshell paints are "completely washable and wipeable." Anyone out there use oil-based in a kitchen without a top coat?

Any input you can provide will be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Sue

Here is a list of some of the changes I made so far for those of you that asked:
Painted the cabinets with Cabinet Coat paint (Sierra Blanca).
Painted the walls with Benjamin Moore Bradstreet Beige kitchen paint.
Painted the countertop edges (that had a brown oak strip) to match the rest of the countertop (used one of the little sample bottles from BM).
Spray-painted the gold ceiling fixture copper and change the globe bulbs to chandelier ones.
Spray painted all the cabinet hardware and hinges with black and copper paint so the effect looks like a rust color.
I rubbed light blue paint on the dark green backsplash tile to make them look blue (again using BM sample paint).
I brought the cabinet paint up onto the sofits to make the cabinets appear taller ( I plan to put chair rail molding on the lower part of the sofit -that's now just painted white- to create the appearance of crown molding).
I also hand-scrubbed the floor - particularly the grout (that was dark brown from stains) using Finazzle which really made the grout look new (but left a lot of residue that took a while to clean off).

Again thanks for all your possitive feedback. I am so glad I found these boards. All of your stories and posts gave me the confidence to do this.
I will be sure to post some more pics after the new appliances are in.

Melina

It is still a work in progress... I plan to add molding above the cabinets , pictures on the walls, a pot rack above the island and I just got a few new Stainless steel appliances on sale as floor samples (Kitchenaid counter depth fridge & Fisher Paykel dishdrawers that we plan to reuse after the remodel and a stainless jenn air cooktop to replace the jenn air downdraft we have that only has 2 fuctional burners.)

Here is a link to pics of some of the changes:
http://community.webshots.com/album/551388568GlKVRv

I am feeling a bit burned out but hopefully I will soon find the energy to continue with the changes.
Melina

Here is a link that might be useful: Before & After Pics

Luckily, we were able to turn it into this without breaking the bank.

Amandaw33, the tile is 'Ming Green' honed marble from Maestro Mosaics. You can find it here: http://www.mglasstile.com/DiamondStoneMosaic.html
And, I apologize for not listing in the finished kithcens blog. I intend to, I just keep waiting for that elusive 'one more thing' to be done and then there's always being picture-ready. (THAT doesn't happen around here with my 3 little ones(.

elljays, it is honed granite -- it's called 'Blue Galactica'

And, thanks to all of you for the kind words!

Here is a link that might be useful: Maestro Mosaics

Here is a link that might be useful: Red Tile Range Mantle: Tile By Country Floors, Work By Jose Diaz Contractors

Out flooring is Santos Mahogany. I'm leaning on a slight curve SS handle or maybe satin nickel. We looked at granite and am leaning toward the gold/yellow line of Granite.

Been looking at glass tiles as well.

I know I am WAY out of your zone, but I did grow up in OK so I do know the climate (plus I love watching Paul James on HGTV). :) One thing I have picked up from him is that a lot of plants/shrubs that we consider hardy and sun-loving aren't even supposed to grow in your area but he grows them protected under the canopy of his trees.

I just ran quickly through one nursery suppliers catalog and these are some of the shrubs that can take full shade:
1. Taxus (Yew) - comes in all shapes and sizes.
2. Stephandra incisa 'Crispa' - Cutleaf Stephandra is a graceful, low spreading plant. Miniature maple-like leaves unfold a reddish -bronze, small white flowers in late May. 2-4' (I love the look of this plant).
3. Rhamnus frangula 'Ron Williams' - "Fine Line" - narrow column, fernlike foliage, non-invasive.
4. Rhodotypos scandens - Black Jetbead - sngelic pure white flowers in June, glossy black, bead-like fruit remains attractive throughout the winter. Performs wonderfully in the shade. 3-6'
5. Ribes alpinum 'Green Jeans' or 'Green Mound' - glossy, rich green leaves and excellent branching, superior summer leaf retention. 3-4'
6. Itea virginica 'Sprich' - "Little Henry" - new, compact sweetspire, pur white flowers in early summer cover this low mounded, compact shrub, vibrant fall color even more than the burning bush. 24-36" by 3' wide.
7. Kerria japonica - (Japanese Kerria) - many varieties, white or yellow flowers (single and double), colorful green stems for winter interest, sizes range from 3' to 5'
8. Euonymus fortunei - many varieties - cream & green leaves or gold & green - mounding, spreading, or climbing types - sizes range from 18" to 3'. (great splash of color for a shady spot... and evergreen).
9. Diervilla lonicera 'Copper' - Bush Honeysuckle - copper-red new growth, yellow flowers mid-summer, great for dry sites. 2'-3'
10. Diervilla sesslifolia 'Butterfly'- rich yellow flowers held in upright clusters from May to July, foliage is bright green and clean, well-branched, never floppy like other culivars, adaptable to dry shady locations. 3'-5'
11. Buxus microphylla 'Faulkner' - glossy foliage, one of the very best boxwood for milder climates. 2-3' (all the Boxwood listed as full sun to full shade).
12. Azaleas and Rhododendrons - both like being under trees in hotter climates and there are tons of varieties and sizes.

That is just a few of the shrubs for shade. Paul James has many of the dwarf evergreens that wouldn't normally survive your heat and he plants them under his trees. I believe he also has some varieties of Japanese Maple in the shade.

Perennials:
1. Heuchera Palace Purple
2. Hosta
3. Lamium (groundcover)
4. Japanese Painted Fern (actually most ferns)
5. Heucherella Sunspot
6. Athyrium Silver Falls
7. Brunnera Jack Frost
8. Tiarella - very tolerant of heat, drought, humidity and poor soil. Great color for shade.
9. Gaultheria procumbens (Creeping Wintergreen)
10. Caladiums - full to part shade - many colors & sizes.
11. Cornus canadensis - Bunchberry - miniature dogwood
z2-7 showy white flowers in late spring, scarlet berries in summer and whorled leaves that blush crimson in fall, plant in shade. 10"T by 24"W
12. Tricyrtis - Toad Lily - several varieties, shade-loving, Orchid-like blooms in fall.
13. Heleborus - Lenten Rose - winter blooming.
14. Convallaria - Lily-of-the-Valley
15. Dicentra - Bleeding Hearts
16. Cardamine pratensis 'Flore Pleno' (beautiful)

Annuals:
1. Jungle Gold Impatiens (must have full shade)
2. Dragon Wing Begonias
3. Coleus (some need shade, some want full sun)

I have already made this long enough so if you go to the link below to plantbynumber.com and you will see some great ideas for annuals for shade. These are in containers but many can be put in the bed. Also, you can always tuck a pot/trough/barrel in a flower bed...on the ground or raised up on a pedestal...or use a tall urn...or some hanging baskets above the bed.

Anyways there are tons and tons of plants...but at least now you have a lot to look up and think about. Wayside Gardens has a lot of the plants listed and more. Their website is:
www.waysidegardens.com

Here is a link that might be useful: Beautiful Shade Containers

That said....

This is what you will need.
A plastic shoebox, with a lid. They come in various sizes, any will do.

Soil less potting mix, half peat, half perlite, or whatever is your favorite medium.
A little clay pot, with the drain hole plugged with caulking or silicone. If this is a new pot, scrub it with some steel wool to be sure it doesn't have a sealer on it. You want the water to seep through it.
Rooting hormone powder or liquid, or salix solution from the willow tree.
Plant material, snippers. I am going to pot some Plectranthus (a tall swedish ivy) and a Joseph's Coat, 'Red Thread'. I already have some succulents rooted in this box. I will take them out and pot them up later, DH has a new cacti pot he wants to put them in.
You can see here, I hope, that I fill the clay pot to the top with rain water, well water, or distilled water. I just don't use our tap water, too much chlorine and a ph that is out of sight.

I pour a little of the hormone powder out on a paper plate or a piece of paper, so that I don't contaminate the whole package of powder. And these little 'snippers' are the best for taking this kind of cuttings.

This is about right on the amount of hormone to use. I try to get 2 nodes per cutting, if I can. Knock off the excess. It is better to have a little too little than to have too much.
Then, with your finger, or a pencil, or stick, SOMETHING, poke a hole in the potting mix and insert your cutting. Pull the potting mix up around the cutting good and snug.

When your box is full, and I always like to pretty much fill the box, just put the lid on it, and set it in the shade. You don't ever put this box in the sun. You wind up with boiled cuttings. YUK!

Check the cuttings every few days, and refill the reservoire as needed. Don't let it dry out. If you happen to get too wet, just prop the lid open with a pencil for a little while.
This is a very good method of propagation, but I don't do roses in these. The thorns just make it hard for me, with my big fingers, to pack the box full. All kinds of other things can be done in these. Just try it!

Janie

I use wick watering and grow under lights so my process is designed to fit those factors.

First I'll start with the wicking method:

You need the following: a 6 inch pot, a covered plastic bowl, and a nylon cord.

The cord will be pulled through the bottom of the pot and through the top center whole of the bowl lid (when you start using it). This picture is just to illustrate how it all fits together once you start using it. Keep in mind the cord just hangs out the bottom while the seeds and cuttings are getting started.

To start off, the cord is put in place in the pot with about 6-8 inches hanging out the bottom. The pot is then filled half full with potting mix and the wick placed around the other side of the pot as shown. The pot is then filled with soil to near the top. When starting seeds I leave about an inch of space below the top of the pot. With cuttings it doesn't matter.

For starting seed I use a plexiglas cover over the pot until the seedlings hit it. Once they reach the cover I remove it and attach the wick and bowl under it. Here is an example of some new seeds comin gup.

This next pic is an example of some tip cuttngs of Balloon flowers I took when they got too tall under my lights.

These cuttings are 4 days old and are being grown under a plactic 100 CD cover to keep the humidity high.

This last pic is some 10 week old Balloon flower seedlings using this method. They are grossly overcrowded but at the moment I have no place to transplant them to so they will just have to survive :) The above cuttings were taken from them. I do have several buds on them already.

Note the wick in the bottom of the plastic bowl.

One lesson learned is don't put too many seeds in. :)

John