Clippings by jeannieNYC

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RE: Hyacinth Seeds (Not the Bean!) (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: flora_uk on 11.22.2010 at 02:02 pm in Seed Saving Forum

I have never sown hyacinth seed but I have seen the pods. Are the shrivelled things on the right what you collected as seed pods? If so I don't think you are going to have much luck. Hyacinth flowers need to be pollinated to produce seed. They will then swell up and produce green pods about the size of a large garden pea arranged up the stems where the flowers were. There are rarely as many pods as there were flowers because not all will be pollinated. These will eventually become brown, dry and papery. They will open up and the seeds will be inside. The flowers will have long fallen off by then. I am afraid the shrivelled flowers in your photo don't look to me as if they have been fertilised.

I can't find a picture of hyacinth seed pods but the link shows bluebell pods which are slightly similar. They are still green but will go brown and dry later.

This link tells you about growing hyacinths from seed.

Here is a link that might be useful: similar seed pods


clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 07:33 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 07:33 pm

RE: A good place to buy unusual iris (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hosenemesis on 05.04.2013 at 12:18 am in Iris Forum

I order my irises from Superstition, Napa Country, Schreiner's, Wild Iris Rows, Stanton, Beaumont Ridge, His Iris Garden, Sutton's, and a few others. There is a directory of commercial gardens on the AIS page.

Here is a link that might be useful: AIS commercial listings


clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 11:52 am

How to save a potted gift rose

posted by: fleursuzie on 04.04.2004 at 11:05 am in Miniature Roses Forum

Although I do not profess to being any type of expert on miniature roses, I find the pretense of having "toss away" roses obscene. That is what some people have called them here on the mini rose forum.

These potted gift roses (also known as grocery store roses) can easily be saved with very little effort.

Things you will need:
� A large mixing bowl or bucket
� One 6" pot per plant or two 12" pots
� Potting soil � it can have slow release fertilizer but NO water crystals

What to do:
1. Fill bowl or bucket with enough water to cover all the roots of the plants
2. Remove rose from pot and place in bowl, let sit for a few minutes
3. slowly "swish" the rose plants back and forth to loosen as much dirt as possible from the roots
4. When you have gotten as much soil off as possible, slowly start pulling the plants apart. Be very gentle so as to break as few roots as possible. The best way is to jiggle the roots around until one of the plants starts tilting. Then slowly pry the roots apart. It helps to return to water every now and then to swish the roots around again. (Note: don�t worry if you loose some of the roots...there really isn�t a way to avoid it from happening, especially if there is a strong network of roots growing)
5. When plants are separated, plant one each in a pot or alternatively, several around the perimeter of a larger pot.
6. Water pots and place in a well lit place but out of direct sunlight for a few days.

Soil � Use regular, good quality, potting soil. It is ok if it has slow release fertilizer, but no fertilizer is better. Do NOT use soil with water retention crystals. (Although peat moss is ok)

If the plants are waterlogged (the soil from the original pot is soggy and boggy, the leaves are all turning yellow, etc) it is best to withhold water for the first 12 to 24 hours after replanting (this gives the roots a chance to dry out a little and excess moisture will be leached into the new dry soil). After that time, water well to make sure that there are no air pockets from when you potted up. ( � note: this is after you have put the rose in its new pot, you can still use the bucket of water to separate them)

Keep the newly potted roses out of direct sun for a couple of days. After that, acclimate it to direct sunlight.

Once the rose is established (about 2-4 weeks after repotting) start fertilizing. You can tell if it has established itself when new growth starts forming


clipped on: 04.04.2013 at 11:02 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2013 at 11:02 pm

RE: Cover drain holes with cloth or newspaper? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: Tayinnawin_Nell on 03.26.2013 at 02:29 pm in Container Gardening Forum

I used newspapers and paper towels once or twice before; I kept losing too much soil through the drainage hole. Unfortunately, they both held too much water in the pot for too long. So I tore up the sheets of paper, balled them up and threw them in the bottom of the pot. This gave the water some space to drain through while keeping the soil from escaping. It also helped fill up some space, made the pot less heavy and I used less soil. I liked it much better than using packing peanuts like so many magazines or garden websites suggest.

Now that I think about it, I bet non-glossy junk mail would be put to good use this way too!


clipped on: 04.03.2013 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 04.03.2013 at 10:11 pm

RE: Questions about starting VC (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: colin3 on 10.26.2012 at 07:33 pm in Vermicomposting Forum

Just bit of cleanup, Jeannie: Celbrise is enthusiastic, but he's a neophyte. He's wrong about temperature: because decomposition releases heat, active compost will be *warmer* than the (average temperature of the) surrounding air.

Hey, let's run outside and measure my bins! ... Here we go: the air temperature around them is just below 60F today, the outside surface of the bins measures 60F, but the center of the bins, inside, is a toasty 75F.

Re other critters (a) I don't think cockroaches are a good idea! but (b) fruit flies and other little flies, once established, can be extremely hard to get rid of. There are some highly experienced folks on this forum who successfully keep bins indoors, but if you have the option I'd go outside, and invest $10 in a little soil thermometer to monitor temperatures.

Cold extremes: You might consider an appliance box over the bin as a windbreak, and/or or some kind of insulation, and some folks have reported using a seedling mat to provide a little extra heat input. But I doubt NYC has the *sustained* cold temperatures to freeze a bin. The worms and other biological processes will slow down in a relatively cold bin and thus process less food, though.

Heat extremes: These are more likely to be a problem for you, especially if your balcony gets a lot of sun. One hot afternoon can kill the worms en masse, and dead worms smell horrible. It's those July days in the high 90s that I would plan against. If you search you'll find more on hot weather measures.


clipped on: 10.27.2012 at 12:14 am    last updated on: 10.27.2012 at 12:14 am

RE: What is this Al's gritty mix? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: meyermike_1micha on 02.18.2010 at 12:18 pm in Container Gardening Forum


It is a mix that will make you wish you had been using long before our common era!

It is a mix that your plants for ever will be indebted to you for!

It is a mix that will stand the test of time!

It is a mix, that will satisfy your every plant need, once you find everything you need for it!

It is a mix, that is virtually impossible to over water in!

It is a mix that allows GREAT root developement!

It is a mix that will help you see your plants grow to their full potential, and great vitality!

It is a mix, that you can leave outdoors, even in the rainiest of season, without fear of loosing your plants to rot!

It is a mix that "fungas gnats" can't stand, hate in fact!

It is a mix, that will convince you that bagged soil mixes are a joke and a waste of money!

It is a mix that easily comes of the roots when transplanting!

It is a mix that lasts for several seasons without compaction, breakdown of structure, and poor air exchange eventually in the root zone.

It is a mix that does not allow salt build up from fertilizers or water deposits!

It is a mix that drains freely and stays evenly moist!

It is a mix that gets PICKED ON by those that don't ever give it a try, and who would never abandon bagged soils...

It is a mix that bonds many of us plant lovere together!

This is just a few examples of what this gritty mix is, for me anyway..

I hope you see that finding the ingredients that are needed for it, are far worth your investment of time, searching and questions...



clipped on: 10.26.2012 at 12:31 am    last updated on: 10.26.2012 at 12:34 am

RE: Seil...... Wintering Pots (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: seil on 09.18.2012 at 01:05 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Hi Jessica,

Do you have an UNheated garage? That would be the best and easiest way to winter them. Keep them watered and outside until they have gone completely dormant and the soil in the pot is frozen. Then move them into the garage up on blocks or something so they're not sitting on the concrete. Through out the winter you want to water them about once a month. It doesn't have to be a lot but they need some water. I usually just put a shovel of snow on the top of the pot every time we shovel and that works well because it will slowly soak into the pot as the temps fluctuate in the garage.

Spring is when you need to be the most careful. When the temps start to get warm in the day time but are still freezing at night you can move them out during the day but back in at night if you wish. The thing you want to avoid is having them leaf out with all that white growth from lack of sunlight. Once your night time temps are consistently above freezing take them out for good. Roses can take temps down to around 28 degrees without suffering much damage but anything lower will kill off the new growth and that's bad for the plant. They only have so much stored energy to come back with in the spring and you don't want them to waste any of it.

If you have any questions just let me know!


clipped on: 10.25.2012 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 10.25.2012 at 11:38 pm

Worm Fables

posted by: nightcrawler46 on 08.30.2012 at 05:58 pm in Vermicomposting Forum

After stalking this website for a few years I feel I can no longer be silent. As a professional worm farmer in SW Colorado I have learned much in the relationship between worms and plants. We sell different types of worm castings, one mix actually comes with Fetida eggs and babies. People constantly ask us if the worms will hurt the plants, we say no. We have set up a display greenhouse to prove our advice. Too many potted vegetables to mention here as well as hundreds of houseplants consisting of anything that will grow in our harsh climate. We always have two of each, one with worms and one without. The plants with worms are just as happy and healthy as those without. I am not a scientist, but a farmer with the best produce in the area, because of heavy worm activity. We have not had one single problem with any of our greenery since adding worms to our pots 5 years ago. None of our customers have ever come back to complain or ever mentioned any sort of problem. I have found people who talk smack about earthworms usually have no evidence to back it up, or they say some ridiculous thing like "the worms ate my roots". Almost always they just suck at gardening and need somebody to blame. I have thousands of pounds of worms working for me and not a single sick plant. Our local Bio students come out all the time to study and gather information, most of them telling me their instructors constantly dismiss any positive effects of worms in pots. I don't have scientific data to show, but I have living proof that potted plants love worms, even the big European Nightcrawlers, and those who disagree never seem to have the guts to come see our proof.


clipped on: 10.23.2012 at 02:14 am    last updated on: 10.23.2012 at 02:14 am

RE: Difference between worms (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dawncols on 03.26.2009 at 09:25 pm in Vermicomposting Forum

<< Perhaps I should just start diggin around my yard and putting the worms I find in the planter. >>

Here's an article about various ways to work with native earthworms from your garden.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mother Earth News worm article


clipped on: 10.23.2012 at 02:09 am    last updated on: 10.23.2012 at 02:09 am

RE: Plastic bag or paper bag for seed storage (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: nil13 on 10.14.2012 at 08:29 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

Now that I have made it that envelope is pretty easy. I like that it allows you to use paper that isn't square. I think I'll try using it for big seeds that need a big envelope.

Here is a folding diagram of the one I use. I like it because it forms a pouch that can be easily opened and closed. Because the opening ends in a point you can gently shake seeds out very accurately.


clipped on: 10.21.2012 at 02:58 am    last updated on: 10.21.2012 at 02:59 am

RE: Pansies from seeds (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: goblugal on 10.19.2012 at 12:23 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

You should be able to germinate pansies between damp paper towels in about 6 says. I'm going to guess that your seed isn't viable, or you cooked them in the dome.


clipped on: 10.21.2012 at 02:56 am    last updated on: 10.21.2012 at 02:56 am

RE: Pansies from seeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: yiorges-z5il on 10.15.2012 at 02:20 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

i have been germinating/growing pansies for over 20 years using the following info
1) MUST use seed within 6 months of collection....Some varities & cultivars regullary have poor germination rates & poor vigor.
2) store seed at 40F for 7 days
3)Lightly cover the seed soil temp 65-70F for germination that takes 10 days


clipped on: 10.21.2012 at 02:56 am    last updated on: 10.21.2012 at 02:56 am