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Finished Kitchen: from Oak & Tile to Black & Marble, mostly DIY

posted by: rtpaisley on 10.08.2009 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hello to all, I am new to posting here! I wanted to share my finished kitchen, we remodeled last October, some DIY some with help, and I found this forum to be an INVALUABLE RESOURCE. Just hoping to give a little back by sharing my finished pictures... even delayed ones.

We redid our oak and tile kitchen with black paint and marble. It was a mix of DIY (I painted our cabinets) and help - the marble was installed and fabricated by someone else, obviously. We pulled out the tile ourselves, both counter and floor, and installed the appliances ourselves. Our kitchen remodel in total cost just under $10,000. I've blogged about it in detail if anyone is interested.

Before and After pictures.

How I made my kitchen choices.

My best shot at a how-to on painting kitchen cabinets yourself.

A complete source list as best I remember.

Here's a few pictures:

Great forum, good luck with everyone on their current endeavors.

Warmly,
Rebekah

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clipped on: 12.26.2009 at 08:34 am    last updated on: 12.26.2009 at 08:35 am

RE: Ready to cry... painted cabinets... (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: circuspeanut on 06.21.2009 at 09:58 am in Kitchens Forum

One thing to note is that you're using Aura paint, which is a different beast from most others. I have my whole house done in Aura in different sheens (mostly matte, kitchen walls are eggshell and bath is semigloss) and I can say that the Aura matte is actually easier to scrub than the Aura eggshell or semigloss. Their product info says this is because it has more ceramic in it? So depending on your sheen desire, you might actually go for the matte for another coat.

But I wanted to encourage you to try the Aura 'Bath and Spa' formula which is a brand-new product and made especially to withstand moisture and stains. You can have it made up in the same BM and affinity colors as the other Auras. A friend just tried it in her kitchen (walls) and has been raving about it.

If you're intent on doing a poly layer, another product I can recommend is a poly finish called PolyWhey by Vermont Coatings. It's waterborne and uses whey (of all things) rather than petrochemicals. I just used the satin on my stairway, and it's amazing! Each coat dried in an hour, it's super easy to apply, and they claim it's twice as hard as regular poly. Since it's waterborne it is non-yellowing. And the best part is that there is NO odor at all. (Just thought I'd throw that in if you've got kids or creatures sensitive to the smells.) It's pricey, but I think I'm a convert and won't ever use regular poly again.

I'm so sorry for the paint stress, it stinks when things don't perform as expected, and there are enough other worries to deal with in a kitchen remodel.

In any case, pictures of the fresh white cabs! We demand pictures! :-)



from the Aura literature:
"Benjamin Moore New Aura Bath and Spa Paint Gallon Matte Finish. This brand new paint extends the new revolutionary color science technology of Aura to offer superior bathroom and spa paint in a matte finish. Now you have achieved features and benefits previously unavailable in paint. This new paint offers guaranteed two-coat coverage with any color over even an unprimed new sheetrock wall. It is super durable, low odor, super coverage, super-time saving paint!
Baths and Spas require a special kind of paint. Wet environments like bathrooms and spas place extra demands on paint and need extra durability, more mildew resistance, more washability and resistance to surfactant leaching.

If you have bathroom with a shower, more than likely you've noticed drip marks on the wall that just doesn't come off. This is due to two things: first, the water itself has minerals in it that remain on the surface once the water evaporates. And second, the water leaches surfactants from the paint film. These surfactants come from the universal colorants that paint companies use to tint colors. The Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa paint uses revolutionary new paint technology that doesn't rely on surfactants and therefore won't create these drip marks. Moreover, this new paint is extra washable and durable and therefore will improve your ability to remove any mineral deposit build up from your walls. It is also super mildew resistant."

Here is a link that might be useful: PolyWhey

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clipped on: 06.25.2009 at 07:49 am    last updated on: 06.25.2009 at 07:50 am

RE: Best Granite Sealer (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: stonegirl on 06.04.2009 at 11:43 am in Kitchens Forum

Oh boy! That is almost like asking what is the best car! There are very many choices and very many really good products out there. You could probably ask 10 different stone guys and have about 15 different recommendations.

StoneTech makes good sealers, as does Miracle. Dry-Treat is one often mentioned and of course STT sealers, although the last two are geared more to supplying the fabricator than the homeowner.

Sealers that I would never recommend are the products from the TileLab range you find at Home Depot. They are very low in solid content and are ineffective at best.

Whatever sealer you use, read and follow the instructions carefully and be sure to buff off all excess sealer. For maximum effectiveness, each application of sealer needs to fully cure before the next application - normally about 24 hours.

Here is a how-to for sealing:
You will need the following:
1. Home improvement strength alcohol
2. Lint-free rags or unprinted paper towels (the "Rags in a Box" disposable paper rags found at home improvement stores are really great for this)
4. Paint pad (those hard, fluffy coated pads they use to apply paint)
3. Sealer

What to do:
1. Clean your counter tops by wiping them down to remove any food residue.
2. Wipe the counters with a rag soaked in alcohol. (Be sure to follow the safety instructions on the container)
3. Once the counters are clean and dry, apply the sealer with the paint pad. You can pour a little puddle and spread it with the paint pad. Work in smaller, manageable areas.
4. Leave the sealer for the recommended time and buff off the residue with the lint-free rags. Be sure to TOTALLY remove all excess sealer or you might end up with streakiness and smudginess. Change rags often to prevent smearing excess sealer.
5. Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all your surfaces are sealed.
6. Leave sealer to cure for 24 hours and test for water absorption. Drip water on the stone to see if the stone still darkens. If it does, another application of sealer is in order.
7. Repeat the entire procedure until water beads up and no longer darkens the stone.

Do not think that more is better. Work with smaller quantities of sealer and properly clean up after each application. Your results will be better than trying a single , heavy handed application.

For daily cleaning, just use a couple microfiber towels (one dry and one slightly damp) Clean counters with the damp one - you could add some soap to it if you wished - and buff dry with the dry rag. No fuss, and pretty easy

You could use a product like StoneTech's Revitalizer or the 3-in-1 from Granquartz as an occasional sealer maintenance cleaner

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clipped on: 06.04.2009 at 01:26 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2009 at 01:26 pm

RE: Photos: Falling Soapstone Overhang - Solutions Needed! (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: stonegirl on 05.13.2009 at 11:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

The posters that said the brackets are the problem are right. The L brackets offer no structural support at all. You need a much better support for your bar - one that would support the weight you put on it.

What is the length of the bar top? Your stone should weigh in the range of 20 lb/sq.ft, so it would be pretty easy to determine the weight of the piece.

If you want a "floating" appearance to your bar top, consider the following:

Attach a couple 2x4's (stood on end) to the top of your knee wall to support the stone. Fasten them securely to the studs. You can either wrap the wood with molding to accent or something else like drywall - primed and painted to match the wall. Either way you would not have a "knee knocker" and still retain the bracketless appearance you wanted while offering enough support for your bar top.

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clipped on: 05.14.2009 at 01:06 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2009 at 01:09 pm

Finished Kitchen

posted by: paigeysmom on 02.21.2009 at 02:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

We actually finished our kitchen shortly before Thanksgiving, but I was so busy with my daughter's birthday and the holidays that I just never got around to posting the finished kitchen pictures. I also kept telling myself that there were just a few more details that I wanted to finish before I could call the project done enough to post pictures on the forum, but after getting a request for more pictures from another GWer yesterday I decided it was time to post my finished kitchen--finally.

We started our project back in April of last year. It was supposed to be a fairly simple project of knocking down a couple of walls to open our 40 year old kitchen up to the rest of the house. But as ususal, it ended up a much larger project. We replaced the flooring in most of the first floor, built a new fireplace mantel and built in bookshelves and basically updated the entire first floor of the house. It ended up costing way more than we expected and took much longer than we had ever imagined, but the result is amazing.
Sometimes I forget how bad it used to be. I was just looking at our before pictures and I was shocked at the dramatic change in our house in the past year. We now actually use our kitchen every day. I have cooked more in the past month than I did in 3 years with the old kitchen. We only had 1 working burner on the old cooktop and the 40 year old oven had a hole in it that made it impossible to keep a consistent temperature in the oven. It was a nightmare to cook in there. My new kitchen is not much bigger than the old one, but the design works so much better.
It was a difficult process. Our KD/Cabinet Guy was very difficult to work with, but I'm beginning to recover from my battles with him. I still sometimes fight the urge to drive my car through the front of their showroom, but I no longer wake up in the middle of the night angry at the KD. For anyone in the middle of their project dealing with similar problems, I can assure you, once the project is done you will eventually recover and begin to forget how painful it was.
Throughout our project I got great advice from this forum and I learned a lot. I only wish I had found this site earlier in our project. Many thanks to everyone who consulted on my various crises--the hood that wasn't centered over the range, the hardware that didn't match and my many fights with my evil KD. I'm posting a couple of pictures of the old kitchen and the finished kitchen to show the scope of the transformation. I'm also posting the link to albums of the before and after.
Thanks to everyone for your help!










And the horrible before pictures:





Here is a link that might be useful: Before/After Albums

NOTES:

Love the three colors used in this plan.
BM Yosemite Tan, BM Georgian Green, and BM Confederate Red.

LR, DR, Kit, done in Yosemite Tan, Sun room done in Georgian Green, and Confederate Red on Back wall of kitchen. Could keep BM Linen White trim color on doors and wood work and perhaps eventually paint kitchen cabinets Linen White.

clipped on: 05.06.2009 at 08:04 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2009 at 08:08 pm

RE: Granite has Pits (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lukkiirish on 10.26.2008 at 08:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi Jo, to attach a photo, you need to open an account with Photobucket.com. Upload the picture there. After you do, there will some boxes under the photo with different options or codes like email or url. One is HMTL. Copy and paste that in the box "Optional Link URL". That's below the message box you type your messages in when you're posting to the forum. You have to give it a name also or it won't upload. When you preview your message it will have the photo in it. Hope that makes sense, good luck!

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clipped on: 10.26.2008 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2008 at 09:07 pm

RE: rectified tile and grout joints... am I asking too much? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bill_vincent on 08.28.2006 at 04:50 pm in Flooring Forum

Dal's good. So is Crossville, Graniti Fiandre and Cerdomus.

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clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 09:40 am

RE: rectified tile and grout joints... am I asking too much? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: clg7067 on 08.28.2006 at 09:48 am in Flooring Forum

I've been looking at Daltile's "colorbody porcelian." The two styles I'm interested in are "Landscape" and "City View". Daltile recommends 1/16" grout lines for both and they both come in large format. There are probably more styles on the website that fit your criteria, but I was focusing on contemporary style.

Here is a link that might be useful: Daltile Colorbody Porcelian

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clipped on: 09.08.2008 at 09:38 am    last updated on: 09.08.2008 at 09:39 am

Green paint (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: old_skool on 06.18.2008 at 11:15 am in Kitchens Forum

I was a little frustrated that the other walls looked so similar in color in the pictures. I took the pictures at night so that might be the issue.

The other walls are Dried Fava, which has some green in it, but is a much different color than the kitchen walls.

It is 8112 DRIED FAVA which is a Martha Stewart color from Sherwin Williams.

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 08:09 am    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 08:09 am

RE: mini update on my kitchen remodel progress. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: old_skool on 06.16.2008 at 11:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

The first paint was much darker. I liked it but it just didn't work the same way the new color does.

Original color was like a mottled green pear. Literally if you held the pear up to the wall it was camouflaged.
It was Sea Of Grass 8217 Sherwin Williams

The new color is
Melange Green SW 6710
Benjamin Moore/Sherwin Williams
Requires ColorAccents Ultradeep base LRV 20

It turned out great. Much more mellow than the last one.

We tested a range of reds and oranges and just couldn't like any of them. This green really stood out. We have espresso color cabinets and white Silestone countertops plus glass tile backsplash in a range of white, grey and green.

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 08:07 am    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 08:08 am

The cabinets were all thanks to a membere here (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: old_skool on 06.18.2008 at 12:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kathleen. I feel bad because I forget her user name here but her kitchen was a big hit.

This is what she told me:

Supplies:
Zinsser 1-2-3 Bullseye Deep Tint (tinted to match paint as closely as
possible)
Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd in Bittersweet Chocolate
Purdy angled brushes for oil paint
Thick plastic or canvas dropcloths
Mineral spirits (for clean-up)
Sandpaper
Soap/water

1. Remove doors. Place them in your basement or garage (if it's not
dusty/humid) on dropcloths. Keep good track of the order of the doors to
make re-hanging easy.
2. Clean and lightly sand everything.
3. Remove dust with a tack cloth.
4. Prime doors using a thin coat of Zinsser. Let dry overnight.
5. Rest each door on its bottom edge. Do not paint that edge ‹ you¹ll do it
once the doors are re-hung.
6. Paint the backs first with a thin coat of Satin Impervo. Thin coats give
more of a handrubbed look and also avoid drips. If you do see some drips,
try to catch them early ‹ once the paint starts to dry, you¹ll make a mess
trying to smooth them out. Let dry at least overnight.
7. Paint the fronts in the same way.
8. Let cure for as long as you can stand it. A week would be ideal.
9. In the meantime, paint the cabinet boxes. I didn¹t paint the insides, and
I¹ve never regretted it.
10. After a week¹s gone by, re-hang the doors. Paint the bottom edge of
each. Do any touch-up.
11. Depending on your wood, the paint may keep absorbing in certain places.
I kept the paint can in my kitchen for a month, doing quick touch-ups
wherever necessary.

Here were a couple pictures I saved for inspiration:
(I hope it is OK with her if I post these)

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clipped on: 08.19.2008 at 08:01 am    last updated on: 08.19.2008 at 08:01 am

RE: Deglosser vs. Sanding Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: igloochic on 08.04.2008 at 11:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

TSP (make sure they're dry before you go further and mix the tsp as noted on the box/jar)

Seals & Bonds (cure overnight)

Coat one of paint, at least four hours of cure time (I prefer overnight)

Coat two of paint, then let that cure a minimm of 24 hours before you start beating it up (install carefully but don't drill out holes for knobs or screws etc for a minimum of 48 hours). You get the best cure over about a weeks time, so don't wash or scrub before then!

I don't do a top coat. I use a gloss paint (you should for any high use area) and the finish is lovely and strong.

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clipped on: 08.06.2008 at 05:52 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2008 at 05:52 pm

RE: Deglosser vs. Sanding Kitchen Cabinets (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: igloochic on 08.01.2008 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK DON'T use deglosser. Instead, use Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (be sure you get exactly that one...it says BONDS on the label). It's made to cover shiny surfaces and bond tightly, and I've used it in several kitchens, and on all of my interior woodwork and it does BOND!! No sanding, just wipe down your cabinets with either a TSP and water mixture or a little vinager and water to get rid of grease.

This stuff is wonderful. I've converted many naysayers to the primer because you really don't have to sand or use a deglosser, and even if they're thermafoil...it will BOND and you'll have a finish you can then paint on. :O) It's so much easier. I just love it (I just picked up another couple of gallons last night). And the finish will be tough as nails by the way. I personally also like to use a high quality sherwin williams paint.

THis is the base for a dark color:
Sherwin Williams All Surface Glass Enamel
Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932

If you're painting white, just ask for the same thing in a white base.

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clipped on: 08.02.2008 at 07:41 am    last updated on: 08.06.2008 at 05:51 pm

RE: Granite fabricator came today and said... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 08.06.2008 at 07:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Iris 16:

The situation you have is dependent on the radius that the
sink has where it meets the underside of the countertop...

here is a form (that I have my customers sign off on) that shows the three main choices that they have when it comes to the radius/caulk issue (see the "Please Note" - design of top flange of sink rim my dictate that only one of the above choices are available") thingy :

Photobucket

I prefer having a bit of an overhang with the stone ( the
1/8" to 1/4" option...)

hope that this helps explain why (possibly) your Fabricator is saying
what he is saying...(this could be one of the reasons)

kevin

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clipped on: 08.06.2008 at 07:31 am    last updated on: 08.06.2008 at 07:31 am

RE: Warm White Subway Tile (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gabeach on 08.01.2008 at 08:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Try Walker Zanger in the Gramercy Park line, color is Bone China. Has a crackle finish. Gorgeous. Do a search on this forum and see photos. I narrowed my selection down to that or Ann Sacks Basic line --Carpaccio or Capriccio, cannot remember the spelling now. I ended up choosing 2x4 marble; it suited my kitchen better, but it was a hard decision.

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clipped on: 08.02.2008 at 07:50 am    last updated on: 08.02.2008 at 07:50 am