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RE: Banquette anyone? (Follow-Up #68)

posted by: needanap on 11.24.2007 at 03:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you for the compliments! I'm really pleased with how everything turned out. I feel so grateful to have such a wonderful place to live. We enjoy it every day!

Malhgold, sorry for the delay in getting back to you with the measurements. The box height is 17 inches off the floor, and the cushions add another 4 inches. The chair seat heights are actually a bit higher, but not enough to be a problem. The seat depth is 27 inches, which is much deeper than you really need. In fact, it would be more comfortable for leaning back against the cushions if there was less depth, but we just double up the pillows when needed. Unfortunately, the boxes have no storage in them (built by previous owner). They obviously didn't know about morgue drawers! Only the window seat to one side of the fireplace has storage. You lift up the seat cushion, and the lid of the box lifts up like a toy chest.


clipped on: 05.16.2010 at 08:41 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2010 at 08:41 pm

RE: Banquette anyone? (Follow-Up #63)

posted by: needanap on 11.17.2007 at 09:37 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally got around to taking pictures of ours. It was finished after the kitchen was done, and took forever for the table and chairs to arrive, but now I can share pics. It is not IN the kitchen, but in the adjacent family room, and this is where we eat most of our meals. The kids like sitting on the cushions and fight for who gets that side of the table.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Here it is in context of the rest of the room, with our newly re-tiled fireplace. I just posted pictures of that in another thread about copper slate tiles.
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Here is a link that might be useful: thread about copper slate backsplash


clipped on: 05.16.2010 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2010 at 08:39 pm

RE: Banquette Table: Round vs Rectangular (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 04.25.2010 at 12:29 am in Kitchens Forum

We removed a round table stuck in a corner to put in an L-shaped banquette and rectangular table so we could gain a bit more seating.

You'll have to forgive these pictures ... it's been a slow process here. I'm almost finished with the table ... it's white now and I've added throw pillows. Next we paint the ceiling and the walls and then I'm done in the kitchen for awhile!

This is just the banquette. We went with a drawer off the end (LOVE IT! We keep all the dog stuff in there right by the door) and sliding doors on the longer part. Granted that is not easy to access, but I didn't want to have to move to cushion to access storage. I can get measurements for it if you need them, but off the top of my head I can tell you that it's 22 inches deep and 16 inches high with a 4-inch cushion on top.


And here it is with the table (customized, by us, to fit). We can easily seat 6 and probably up to 9 if we squish or throw a couple kids in the mix.


Table shape is really a matter of personal preference and how many people you want to seat, but do be sure that no matter what you decide, you go with either a pedestal or a trestle for the reasons mentioned above.


clipped on: 04.27.2010 at 08:25 am    last updated on: 04.27.2010 at 08:25 am

RE: Front loading vs Top loading washing machine (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mara_2008 on 01.04.2010 at 05:02 pm in Laundry Room Forum

Why not a TL with the benefits of a FL?

This is what we got -- a Maytag Bravos.

Maytag Bravos is an HE TL -- not a TL with an agitator. HE toploaders have the same advantages as front loaders, without the mold/odor issues because there is no rubber seal.

I spent months researching washers before making the decision to go with Bravos. I read reviews at many websites and I also talked with appliance servicemen, as well as friends/relatives/neighbors who owned HE toploaders and frontloaders. I also got a lot of helpful information here.

I can repeat what the former poster said, about Maytag Bravos:

1) Saving a lot of money on water use.
2) Can do much larger loads, even comforters.
3) Gentler on our clothes.
4) Spins more water out of laundry, lessening drying time in my dryer which is saving me on electricity/drying time.
5) Stainless steel drum.

And one more: Laundry detergent lasts much longer, which cuts costs there too.

I buy HE detergent on sale and with coupons if at all possible. Even if that weren't true, it lasts so much longer, I've only had to buy it every 10-12 months.

I'm still using a bucket of Sears HE Ultra Wash detergent which I bought in the summer of 2008! I use it primarily for sheets, blankets, and jeans/T shirts. I use Tide Total Care HE and Woolite HE for our nice clothes, delicates, and items I wash on the handwash cycle.

I can wash so much more laundry in one load (with very little detergent), I only have to wash 3-5 loads per week for a family of 6, whereas I used to wash 7-12+ loads per week.

For us, this adds up to a huge savings in water, electricity, and detergent.


clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 05:10 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 05:10 pm

RE: Front loading vs Top loading washing machine (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: happymomof2kids on 01.01.2010 at 09:14 am in Laundry Room Forum

I agree with Cynic. It really depends on your needs. Make a list of your personal needs by priority and go from there. I went from a TL to a FL but that is beacuse my number one priority at the time was the water rates went up so high here it was getting to the point I couldn't afford to wash my clothes.

My water bill was cut in half and the FL paid for itself in savings within 10 months.

Some of the basic advantages and disadvantages I noticed are as follows:

Advantages of my TL

1) My TL rinsed way better than my FL.
2) It was way easier to find detergents for my TL than my FL.
3) The water temperatures on my TL worked way better than the ones on my FL.
4) The wash cycles were faster so I was able to catch up on laundry quicker.
5) No mold issues.

Advantages of my FL

1) Saving a lot of money on water use.
2) Can do much larger loads, even comforters.
3) Gentler on my clothes. Our clothes have been lasting much longer.
4) Spins more water out of laundry lessening drying time in my dryer which is saving me on electricty when I have to use my dryer.
5) Stainless steel drum so no more rust spots. (drum in my TL had a nick in the porcelin coating so I ended up with rust spots on several articles of clotheing.)

As far as servicing, they are kinda running neck and neck on that one. Both had to be serviced multiple times when I first got both, but the TL only lasted 2 years. It was really inexpensive when I got it so it served it's purpose, and the replacement parts were dirt cheap so it made it easy for do it yourself repair.

My FL is covered under warranty, but most of the stuff that has gone wrong with it has been relatively inexpensive parts wise and the inside is so basic it looks very fixable for an owner to do oneself.

Cleaning performance? They are neck and neck. Neither one was/is fantastic, and neither was/is horrible. Both did/do the job well enough.

For reference, my TL was a low end, real basic Kenmore. My FL is what you would class as a low end, real basic Frigidaire Affnity.


clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 05:09 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 05:09 pm

RE: Corn Pudding recipe? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: caliloo on 11.16.2009 at 06:02 pm in Cooking Forum

Shaun posted this on the "Must be on your table" thread. I haven't made it yet, but I trust Shaun's recipes!

Memphis Corn Pudding

1 box Jiffy Corn Muffin mix
1 can Whole Kernel Corn with juice
1 can Cream Corn
1 stick of melted butter
1 Cup sour cream
2 eggs

Mix all ingredients until blended. Pour into 9 x 13 baking dish. Bake uncovered at 350 for 45-50 minutes or until lightly browned.


clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 11:37 am

RE: For those who brine the turkey -- (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: ann_t on 11.16.2009 at 11:42 pm in Cooking Forum

I switched to Judy Rogers' Pre-salting method about two years ago. I think that the end result is better and so much easier to deal with. I roast using Barbara Kafka's high heat method (500F).

Home Cookin Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

Judy Rogers' Zuni Cafe

Servings: 11 to 15

Note: This is more a technique than a recipe. It makes a bird that has concentrated turkey flavor and fine, firm flesh and that is delicious as it is. But you can add other flavors as you wish. Minced rosemary would be a nice finishing addition. Or brush the bird lightly with butter before roasting.

1 (12- to 16-pound) turkey

Kosher salt

1. Wash the turkey inside and out, pat it dry and weigh it. Measure 1 tablespoon of salt into a bowl for every 5 pounds the turkey weighs (for a 15-pound turkey, you'd have 3 tablespoons).

2. Sprinkle the inside of the turkey lightly with salt. Place the turkey on its back and salt the breasts, concentrating the salt in the center, where the meat is thickest. You'll probably use a little more than a tablespoon. It should look liberally seasoned, but not over-salted.

3. Turn the turkey on one side and sprinkle the entire side with salt, concentrating on the thigh. You should use a little less than a tablespoon. Flip the turkey over and do the same with the opposite side.

4. Place the turkey in a 2 1/2 -gallon sealable plastic bag, press out the air and seal tightly. Place the turkey breast-side up in the refrigerator. Chill for 3 days, turning it onto its breast for the last day.

5. Remove the turkey from the bag. There should be no salt visible on the surface and the skin should be moist but not wet. Place the turkey breast-side up on a plate and refrigerate uncovered for at least 8 hours.

6. On the day it is to be cooked, remove the turkey from the refrigerator and leave it at room temperature at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

7. Place the turkey breast-side down on a roasting rack in a roasting pan; put it in the oven. After 30 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and carefully turn the turkey over so the breast is facing up (it's easiest to do this by hand, using kitchen towels or oven mitts).

8. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees, return the turkey to the oven and roast until a thermometer inserted in the deepest part of the thigh, but not touching the bone, reads 165 degrees, about 2 3/4 hours total roasting.

9. Remove the turkey from the oven, transfer it to a warm platter or carving board; tent loosely with foil. Let stand at least 30 minutes to let the juices redistribute through the meat. Carve and serve.


This same method can be used for chicken, chicken pieces, pork roasts, ribs, chops, etc..

With the smaller cuts just pre-salt 4 or five hours in advance. Even this short period of presalting makes an amazing difference.

Don't cover, just refrigerate and then remove from the fridge in time for the meat to come to room temperature before cooking.

Home Cookin Chapter: Recipes From Thibeault's Table

Simple Roast Turkey - High Heat Method
Source:Barbara Kafka
Roasting A Simple Art

Many Thanksgivings at my house have proved the high-heat method to be ideal. A fifteen-pound turkey at room temperature takes two hours to roast. However, it may take several hours for the turkey to reach room temperature. While the turkey is sitting out, cover it loosely with a towel, otherwise the skin will dry out. I prefer a fifteen-pound turkey as it isn't too heavy for me to handle. It usually gives lots of good leftovers and is generally available.

There are certain things to think of to ensure success before beginning: Remove the giblet bag from the interior of the bird. Remove the wing tips. Put everything except the livers into a pot and start Basic Fowl Giblet Gravy. By the time the bird is roasted, the gravy will be done. Use the liver in the dressing/stuffing or store in the freezer, covered with milk. Make sure there is a pan big enough for the turkey without it's touching the sides of the pan. Do not truss.

Consider whether the bird should be stuffed or the stuffing served as dressing baked separately. If stuffing, think in terms of twelve cups of stuffing for a 15 pound bird, which will allow the big cavity to be stuffed and some more stuffing to be crammed under the skin flap at the neck. I seldom stuff because there are real food safety questions about the bird and its stuffing sitting out at room temperature.

The oven must be very clean before roasting, or cooking at this high temperature will cause unpleasant smoke. In any case, there will be some smoke, so turn on the fan or open a window. Don't put the oven rack too high or the skin on the breast will get over cooked. For a twenty-pound turkey, the rack should be in the lowest position. Always put the turkey in legs first - dark meat takes longer to cook and the rear of the oven is the hottest area.

If the top skin seems to be getting too dark, slip a doubled piece of aluminum foil on top of it. Don't move the turkey. Use an oven mitt to protect hands and forearms. Remove the foil with the same oven mitt ten minutes before the turkey comes out.

Large turkeys are most easily removed from the pan by holding them with two pot holders, which will need to be washed. After the meal, get out a large stockpot to boil up the carcass and leftover bones for turkey soup and stock.

15 pound turkey, thawed, if necessary and at room temperature, wing tips removed, reserving giblets and neck for gravy, liver for stuffing.

Fresh ground black pepper to taste
1 cup water or basic turkey/chicken stock

Place oven rack on second level from bottom of oven. Heat oven to 500F.

Rinse the turkey inside and out. Pat dry. Sprinkle the outside with pepper. If stuffing, stuff cavity and crop, securing openings with long metal skewers. Lace them. Do not truss.

Put turkey in an 18 X 13 X2 inch roasting pan, breast side up. Put in oven legs first. Roast until the leg joint near the backbone wiggles easily, about 2 hours. After 20 minutes, move the turkey around with a wooden spatula to keep from sticking. Remove the turkey to a large platter. Let sit 20 minutes before carving.

Pour off grease from roasting pan and put pan on top of the stove. Add water or stock. Bring to a boil while scraping bottom of pan vigorously with a wooden spoon, loosening all the crisp bits in the bottom of the pan. These add intensity to the gravy. Let reduce by half. Serve on the side in a sauceboat or add to giblet gravy.

9 pounds
stuffed 1 hour 45 minutes
unstuffed 1 hour 15 minutes

12 pounds
stuffed 1 hour 50 minutes
unstuffed 1 hour 20 minutes

15 pounds
stuffed 2 hours 30 minutes
unstuffed 2 hours

20 pounds
stuffed 3 hours 30 minutes
unstuffed 3 hours


clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 11:34 am

RE: Green vegetable ideas for Thanksgiving? (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: caliloo on 11.17.2009 at 03:23 pm in Cooking Forum

Well if it doesn't have to be healthy......

Then I recommend a broccoli Cauliflower gratin. This is a recipe from the fuzzy little ewok (I still call him that after all these years!) but you certainly do not need "essence" to make it wonderful.

Broccoli and Cauliflower Au Gratin
by Emeril Lagasse
.Prep Time:30 minInactive Prep Time:hr minCook Time:55 minLevel:
6 to 8 servings.Ingredients
1 stick plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter
3 pounds cauliflower, trimmed and cut into large florets
1 1/2 pounds broccoli, trimmed and cut into large florets
2 teaspoons salt, plus more as needed
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
6 cups whole milk
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
8 ounces grated cheddar cheese, about 3 cups
1 cup fine dry bread crumbs
2 teaspoons Essence, recipe follows
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Grease a 3-quart casserole dish with 2 teaspoons of butter and set aside.

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender but still firm, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

Return the water to a boil, add the broccoli and cook until tender but still firm, about 5 minutes. Drain in a colander, refresh under cold running water, and drain again.

Place the cauliflower in the prepared pan and top with the broccoli.

In a medium heavy saucepan, melt the remaining stick of butter over medium heat. Stir in the flour, whisking constantly over medium heat until thickened into a blond roux, about 4 minutes. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons salt and the cayenne, stir, and gradually add the cold milk, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens, about 4 minutes. Bring to a simmer and add the cheese, whisking constantly until the cheese is melted. Remove from the heat.

Pour the cheese sauce over the vegetables, gently rapping the casserole dish on the counter top to dispel air bubbles.

In a bowl, mix together the bread crumbs, oil, and Essence and evenly distribute over the top of the vegetables. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.


clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 11:26 am

RE: Green vegetable ideas for Thanksgiving? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: joanm on 11.14.2009 at 03:42 pm in Cooking Forum

I made these and everyone liked them.

Green Beans with onion
Rachael Ray
4 servings
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, eyeball it
1 tablespoon butter
1 small onion, chopped
1 cup chicken broth
1 to 1 1/4 pounds trimmed green beans many markets have trimmed raw beans in packages in the fresh produce department in 1 pound packages

To a medium pan over medium heat add extra-virgin olive oil and butter and onion. Saute onion 3 minutes, add broth and bring to a boil. Add beans, season with salt and cover pan and simmer 8 minutes, until tender.

Comments said that the onions might take a little longer than 3 minutes and to take the lid off after 8 minutes to let the broth cook away. It took about 15 minutes when I made them.


clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 11:24 am    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 11:25 am

RE: Green vegetable ideas for Thanksgiving? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: caliloo on 11.14.2009 at 02:37 pm in Cooking Forum

Ditto the Green Bean Casserole. I also make the following:

Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta
Recipe courtesy Giada De Laurentiis

Prep Time: 10 minutes Cook Time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
1 pound fresh Brussels sprouts, trimmed
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces paper-thin slices pancetta, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup low-salt chicken broth

Partially cook the Brussels sprouts in a large pot of boiling salted water, about 4 minutes. Drain.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and saute until beginning to crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until pale golden, about 2 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts to the same skillet and saute until heated through and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add the broth and simmer until the broth reduces just enough to coat the Brussels sprouts, about 3 minutes. Serve.


clipped on: 11.19.2009 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 11.19.2009 at 11:23 am

TOT Table

posted by: excessfroufrou on 11.02.2009 at 11:13 am in Holiday Forum

Ok, I'm slow, here are some pics of my Trick or Treat table for my special kiddos. I got some of the decos that day for 1/2 price, like the skull and black cats. Of course we are all about the food, I had a blast making scary treats. DH makes a pretty scary grim reaper, don't you think. And furchild is just a little bit shy as a witch. We had a blast.

Photobucket Photobucket fingers Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket


clipped on: 11.07.2009 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2009 at 09:47 pm

RE: Everything Beeps! (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: celticmoon on 10.31.2009 at 11:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I dug this up on stopping the Bosch beep:

Someone posted a while back that the instructions in some manuals were wrong...There are two sets of instructions in my manual -- one for models w/ the LED display (like the SHY66), and another set for those that don't have the LED...

To change cycle completion volume on Bosch dishwashers.....

......for models w/ LED display (e.g., SHY66):

1) Press & **hold** DELAY START button, then press & **hold** ON/OFF button. When tone begins to sound & display shows 0, 1 or 2, release all buttons.

2) Display & DELAY START button light will be flashing. Press DELAY START button until tone is at desired level/silent. Display will show 0 (silent), 1 or 2 (loudest).

3) Press ON/OFF button & close dw door. Cycle Completion Signal is now set & you can wash dishes as usual.

.....for models w/o LED display:

1) Press & **hold** right-most of the two buttons labeled "Cancel Drain," then press & **hold** ON/OFF button. When light on "Cancel Drain" button you are holding lights, and tone begins to sound, release all buttons.

2) Press same "Cancel Drain" button as before until tone is at desired level or is silent.

3) Press ON/OFF button & close dw door. Cycle Completion Signal is now set & you can wash dishes as usual.

Hope that helps!


clipped on: 11.01.2009 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2009 at 10:03 pm

RE: Oil stain in granite (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 03.19.2009 at 12:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Cleaning an oil stain off of your Granite with a "Pancake Poultice"
by Kevin M. Padden - AZ School of Rock / Natural Stone 101

Oils stains are very common in residential kitchens. We lead busy lives
and thus, stains can happen - heres how to remove one - easily and efficiently
and note - this is what has worked for ME - is it the ONLY way? - NO, but I say again -
this is the regimen that has worked for me...... since 1985.

Determine the staining agent - KNOWING what caused the stain is half the battle - in this case - its an oil stain - so well have to use a removing agent that will break up the oil in order to "lift it out" of the stone

Assemble your components that youll need to get the stain out - they are as follows:

a plastic throw away cup - I prefer the plastic solo type cups that are 16 oz size clear or colored - it does not matter - just that it is plastic and you can afford to throw it away if you want to. Do NOT use styrofoam as it will NOT work!
dry plaster of paris - available at any hardware store or big box home improvement center
Acetone or MEK Solution (methyl ethyl keytone) - SAFETY NOTE - these two liquids are HIGHLY FLAMABLE - when working with these - remove ANY & ALL SOURCES OF IGNITION - Like Smoking, turn off your gas range - turn off the auto pilot light device - these two liquids are really DANGEROUS - so treat them with respect, and keep the kids away while your mixing up and spreading out. Send them to grandmas house r something like that so you wont have to worry about them immitating what they see you doing, because this will look like fun to little kids (I know - I ARE ONE - Im a little kid trapped in grown mans body)
measuring cups to measure the liquid - youre not going to need alot - unless you have a really big stain
3M BLUE TAPE - Not WHITE, Not CLEAR - 3M BLUE TAPE!!! ONLY.... Many brands of white masking tapes will ;eave a residue from the adhesive thats on them - making more work for you to do than just removing a small oils stain!!!! Trust me - I found this out the hard way back in 1985 - so consider your tuition paid in full for this lesson!!!
Clear Visqueen Plastic or Saran Wrap - depending on the size, youll need at least a 12" x 12" piece
a table spoon
a putty knife
close proximity to your sink with running water - most of these stains are in kitchens so this one should be a no brainer - that is - unless you are a total moron, which - in that case - A. stop reading this now, B. go watch Sponge Bob Square Pants..... and C. Youre going to be making alot more of these stains in the future, so D. get used to them... you DO NOT need to be fooling around with FLAMABLES anyways!!!


have a fire extinguisher on hand just in case - if you follow the rest of these instructions - therell be no need to use it, but theses days, you have to "disclaimer" the living snot out of everything - just to protect yourself from the random twit that has no comon sense

A couple of cautionary notes to you BEFORE proceeding any further at this time -
1.THIS PROCEDURE WORKS BEST ON POLISHED GRANITES - Stones that are HONED, LEAHERED or ANTIQUED (where the surface is NOT POLISHED) may have some residue from the dried plaster of paris - so remember - unless your stone is polished - you may have to scrub the dried plaster off of the stone with LOTS of ELBOW GREASE - just wanted to make sure you KNOW what youre getting into - BEFORE you get there..... IF you have a piece of scrap of the same stone - do a "test run" on the scrap - to see how much the paster adheres to the textured stone.

2. TEST your stone to see if it was DYED. This is especially critical if it is an Absolute Black, Chinese Black or any stone that may have been DYED at the finishing factory prior to shipment here in the United States - There are (and this is really NOT a lot) a very small number of stone finishing plants overseas - where they cut up the blocks of Granite into slabs - and apply a topical coating of DYE to enhance the color of the stone. I have seen this in a few isolated instances in Absolute and Chinese Black - where the stone comes out of the ground actually more like a charcoal grey, and the finisher dyes the stone a jet black do it will sell better. Test a PIECE OF SCRAP stone that you have that is the same stone in your application - with a dry white cloth, some Acetone & MEK solution - take a few drops of each liquid and apply it to the SCRAP stone piece - immediatley rub the SCRAP - hard - with the dry cloth for about a minute. After a minute is up - look at your white cloth tha has the liquid on it - on the side it was in contact with the stone. IF I IS DARK IN ANY WAY - YOUR STONE HAS BEEN DYED. Proceed with caution, as the Acetone and or MEK solution will now - not only remove the oil stain, but also the dye - so use discretion on this or contact your Fabricator for assistance. Chances are your stone was NOT DYED - But test a piece of scrap FIRST - to be sure.

the same kind of sealer (if any) that was used when your stone was installed - look at your contract documents - many Fabricators will list out the brand - or you can call whoever did your stone to find out what the brand name and product name of the sealer that was used - THIS IS IMPORTANT - as the following procedure will reove the sealer (if any) from your stone, so youll need to put some more sealer back on in a kind of "spot application" just where the stone had the poultice (does tha make sense?)
a dry cloth - I like the old school baby diapers (like the kind that my mom had me in back in 1955) Pampers & Huggies available today will not work as good. Use some kind of dry 100% cotton cloth - preferably - white.

From here on out, were going to presume that you have an oil stain on your Granite, your stone is POLISHED, was sealed at the time it was installed, and t is NOT dyed - for the sake of keeping this applicable to the masses......

Poultice Application

Turn off all gas ranges, your stoves auto pilot light, stop smoking, extinguish all candles and other sources of fire ignition like sparklers, roman candles, flame throwers, and large bonfires - again, you should be dialed in with the safety stuff on this by now...OK???? THINK SFAETY

Get your plastic throw away cup, and into it, pour in about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of either Acetone or MEK solution that you measured in your measuring cup

Rinse out your measuring cup and wash quick with soap & water - set aside to dry

Start pouring in to the cup - your plaster of paris - in small amounts - like 1/8 of a cup at a time - you can eyeball this - you dont need to measure exactly - just keep pouring in a little dry plaster of paris at a time all the while - mixing with the table spoon - until your "mix" has the consistancy of pancake batter - not stiff, but nut runny like water

The clock is running on you now - so work quickly - 1. rinse off your table spoon and dry it - youll need it in few moments 2. pour out some of the "mix" onto the stain - dont waste time on steps "e" "f" "g" "h" and "i" - do them as quickly as you can - no more than 5 minutes total from start to finish
COMPLETELY cover the stain with the mix to a thickness of aproximately 1"

Get your now CLEAN spoon, and use it to spread out the "mix" so that it overlaps the perimeter of the stain by 1 inch in all directions - eg- if you have a 1 inch round stain, the mix should be spread out so that its 3 inches in diameter - covering the stain and surrounding stone by 1 inch - to a thickness of about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch

Once the "mix" is spread out to the correct area size, get your plastic saran wrap or clear plastic visqueen, and cover your wet "pancake poultice" completely so that the plastic extends beyond the perimeter of your "pancake poultice" by another 2 to 3 inches on all directions (at least) - 5 to 6 inches is fine, but dont go too much past that - I like about 2 inches myself.

TAPE DOWN the plastic to the stone on all edges of the plastic so that you create a seal and the Acetone or MEK fumes will be trapped inside of the poultice assembly that you have now created. Remember to use ONLY 3M Blue tape for this step - (No... I do NOT get a kickback from 3M to say this - it sure would be nice - but 3M Blue Tape has NEVER failed me - so I am a very satified customer for life - or as long as they make it - Ill be buying it - just wanted to make that point clear)

Keep the kids away from this when they get back from Grandmas house, and leave this "Poultice Panckae" alone for 24 hours.

You can turn your gas range back on now, but dont smoke near the "poultice pancake" - better yet - dont smoke at all (easy for me to say though... I never have and I never will!!!)

AFTER 24 hours has passed - remove the 3M Bluetape and the plastic sheet that you put on yesterday when we were applying the poultice.

Get your putty knife, and carefully start to "pry" off the now hardened, white pancake - off of your stone counter. Be careful not to scratch your stone - Granite is very hard, but you can scratch it - especially - JUST when you think it wont....

Once you have removed the "poultice pancake" from your polished stone, it should pop right off and leave little or no residue behind. You may have to wipe down the spot area, but in most cases - this will be the MOMENT OF TRUTH - did it work???

In most cases, a one time application of a poultice will do the trick, and youll be amazed at the results from this simple procedure, however, you may have to repeat the process over as many as two more times, or until the stain is totally gone.

Now its time to re-apply a coat of sealer (if any was used originally on the work). You will not have to re-seal your entire kitchen - just they area that you had the poultice pancake on

Allow the sealer (that you have applied LIBERALLY) to sit on the surface of the stone for 5 minutes

Wipe off any of the excess sealer, and allow to dry - turn a fan on and open a window to help ventilate any fumes, and help dry the spot faster - you cab also use a hair dryer in "cold" mode - no heat should be used.

Once the newly sealed area is dried, the color of the stone should MATCH all of the surrounding stone - if this is the case - everything is perfect - youll just need to take that 1950s era 100% cloth baby diaper (clean of course) or a dry coth, and buff the stone a bit where the sealer was just applied. Once you buff out the latent sealer residue, you are DONE!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! YOU DID IT!!! :-D

Now that you have removed the stain from your Granite, and it has been re sealed at the area where the stain was - theres one more thing youll need to do - be more careful using oils in your kitchen! Remember that ANYTHING you spill on your stone - ESPECIALLY if its "EVOO" (Extra Virgin Olive Oil - MY FAVE!) or regular vegetable oils or greases - WILL SOAK INTO THE STONE - Even THROUGH a coat os sealer. Immediate clean up is the key to NOT having to become a regular applicator of "Poultice Pancakes"!!!!

Watch for this to be posted also at

Thus endeth the lesson

hope that helps.......


Kevin M. Padden
Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural stone Industry


clipped on: 10.29.2009 at 02:56 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2009 at 02:57 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 02.04.2009 at 02:44 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a pantry suggestion... Ventilate!

Walk-in pantry -- can I see yours?

Would A Walk-In Pantry Be a Major Selling Point To You?

Wood or wire shelves for walk-in pantry

What size should a step-in corner pantry be?

Buehl's Pantry Pictures

And here's a preview:

The left side has 15" shelves and holds, top-to-bottom, cereals, snacks & drinks, gluten-free foods, small appliances, and two bins--one for yams & one for white potatoes. (Small appliance shelf now holds cookbooks. Toaster Oven & coffee maker are now on the floor.)

The right side holds, top-to-bottom, paper towels, baking/cooking supplies (next 3 shelves), small appliances, more baking supplies. The floor has a stool & paper plates.


detail shots of bueh'l pantry
clipped on: 10.13.2009 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2009 at 11:28 pm

RE: What size should a step-in corner pantry be? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rhome410 on 08.22.2008 at 01:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I saw your other post, but will answer here. Thanks to Buehl, our pantry is Sharb inspired, too!...Because I used the measurements she posted to help determine the best spacing for our shelves.

Ours is not a corner pantry, and is smaller...Only 4 ft across the back and 44" deep, so yours sounds particularly wonderful and nicely sized. I do suggest that you make sure to have room or a niche to get the vacuum cleaner out of your way. My broom, Power Swiffer, and step stools are not yet hung up out of the way, and it's a pain to have things standing on the floor in front of where I need to step in and reach or pullout out other things. Maybe yours will be big enough to get around the vacuum without hassle, but I still think it'd be best for it to have it's own place, as much out of the way as possible. --But maybe you've already planned to do that.

Here are photos of ours, just so you can get an idea of how much it holds.




clipped on: 10.13.2009 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2009 at 11:16 pm

RE: Built-ins around zero-clearance fireplace? Help! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: stacylu on 09.21.2007 at 11:25 am in Fireplaces Forum

We're thinking about doing a similar thing with our fireplace but have the same "tunnel look" worries. I did find this picture that I'm using for inspiration. We are talking about doing the same 12" cabinet the whole way down instead of having a deeper area at the bottom however

I hope that helps somewhat!


clipped on: 10.13.2009 at 11:06 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2009 at 11:06 pm

RE: Height between pantry shelves? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rhome410 on 01.16.2009 at 12:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I started with Sharb's measurements, then adjusted according to my needs, and things like where outlets were placed, etc.

My spaces between shelves, from floor to 9 ft ceiling are: 19", 15", 14", 10", 10", 14", 21 1/2". The 19" at the bottom allows for my roll-out bins for grains and pet food. The 10" are what I needed for cans stacked 2 high. The others fit cereal boxes, gallon jugs, my grain mill, etc.



clipped on: 10.12.2009 at 01:17 am    last updated on: 10.12.2009 at 01:17 am

RE: Height between pantry shelves? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.16.2009 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is what we did in our corner step-in pantry:

[The MW, btw, didn't fit so it is not in the pantry as originally planned.]

Also, SharB once posted her measurements but the thread has long since fallen off. I saved them and here they are:


[Sharb's] pantry measures 4 feet wide by 5 feet deep.
Starting at the top:

18" top shelf to ceiling (Things I don't need often or are lightweight.)
15" to next shelf (cereal boxes, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
16" to next (small appliances)
20" from bottom shelf to floor (extra waters, heavy items)

The depth of the back shelf and the right side 12". The left side is 6" and holds my [SharB's] husband's hot sauces and other small items.


clipped on: 10.12.2009 at 01:16 am    last updated on: 10.12.2009 at 01:16 am

RE: Pantry storage ideas (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: teresa_nc7 on 08.13.2008 at 04:40 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Recently I had a pantry remodel done and I really enjoy the new pantry!

My home is a brick bungalow built in 1910 and has a good sized pantry in the kitchen, however, with several very deep shelves that go to the 9ft. ceilings, the pantry was not really user friendly. Here is the before picture:

Image Hosting by

After the remodel, I have two deep shelves left up high for extra kitchen "stuff" and new smaller, narrow shelves in an L-configuration for pantry food storage. The wall on the left has no shelves, but has hooks for hanging the stir-fry pan, sieves, colanders, roasting pans, and aprons. The space is big enough that I can walk *into* the pantry and even turn around if I want!

The shelves were already covered with a white laminate and did not need painting. I did paint the old beadboard wall covering a clean white to brighten up the interior. It took 2 carpenters one day and $300 to re-do the pantry and a few other odd jobs around the house. Best money I have spent in a long time!

Here is the new pantry:

Image Hosting by


clipped on: 10.06.2009 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2009 at 01:47 pm

RE: Pantry storage ideas (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: teresa_nc7 on 08.13.2008 at 10:44 pm in Smaller Homes Forum

Lizzie, I am pleased that you find my design helpful and it is fine to print out the pic.

My pantry is 46" across and 34.5" deep, just so you will know what size I'm working with.

Other points:

~ the new shelves are 8.5" wide, but that is because that is the largest size I could make down the right side from the door facing; with an L-shaped shelf arrangement, you probably want to put the shelves down the side with the most room from the door facing - my left side has only 4" of space from the corner to the door facing; I wish I had made the back shelves just a tad bit wider - maybe 10" but no wider than that

~ the lowest shelf is 25" from the floor so I can stack a couple of large stock pots on the floor beneath the shelf; there is also a wood crate on the floor that holds cookie sheets, baking pans, deep dish pizza pan, pizza screens, etc.

~ the hooks on the left side are staggered down the left wall and are placed no higher than I can reach (I'm 5'5" tall) and hold 2 sieves, a breadbasket, the stir fry pan, and a roasting pan; a large hook beside the left door facing (inside the pantry) holds 3-4 full-length aprons

~ I use baskets and colanders to hold onions, potatoes, and sweet potatoes as I don't buy a lot of these at one time and they must go in the pantry where it is dark

~ there is a plastic basket to hold dried beans and rice and another smaller basket to hold ranch mix, enchilada sauce mix, taco mix, etc.

~ wherever possible I use decorative tin cans with lids to hold pasta, cocoa, and tea; I also use large glass jars to hold oatmeal, barley, dried potato flakes (for bread) etc.

~the top shelves are the original 16" deep shelves and hold the Fry Daddy, the largest crock pot, 3(?) thermoses, box of canning jars, etc. - the cooking items that are used less frequently. [note: I worked for 10 years in a gourmet cooking store so I have lots and lots of stuff!]

Hope this helps!


clipped on: 10.06.2009 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2009 at 01:47 pm

RE: Slightly OT but Help! Is my new oven ruined? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: trailrunner on 10.06.2009 at 10:01 am in Kitchens Forum

What I have found that works for really baked on stuff. It has worked for me and for others on this forum that have the Miele Perfect Clean. You have nothing to lose.

Put a thick layer of dry baking soda on the bottom of the oven. Cover with a clean dry dishtowel. Now get some water boiling hot and drizzel it over the towel just til it is wet through. Leave this til the next day or overnight. Use a green scrubby wet with baking soda to remove anything that doesn't just come off with the towel the next day. You will be amazed at how well this works.

If all else fails you can try making a paste of Bar Keepers Friend and leave it ! MINUTE only and then use green scrubby. GOOD LUCK !! Caroline


clipped on: 10.06.2009 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 10.06.2009 at 12:35 pm

RE: Desperate! Wolf Range - Foil Burned on inside Bottom (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: vickeryga on 06.10.2008 at 08:27 pm in Appliances Forum

Thanks Weissman! I did not want to hear that!

Breezy 2 ~ you are hilarious and reading your post made me feel better!! Had it been two years ago (when we got the oven) I would have read the manual too! I would have NEVER thought that this would happen and I am not in the habit of reading the manual anymore. I did a little reasearch online and found a website to the Porcelain EnamelInstitute...believe it or not! This is what it said for Kitchenware:

KITCHENWARE - wash in sudsy
water. If necessary use a plastic scouring pad or wooden scraper to remove burnt-on food. Burnt-on food may be loosened by soaking in a solution of 2 teaspoons baking soda and 1 quart of water. Avoid abrasive scouring powder or steel wool. For heavy baked-on grease, or spills, occasional use of a fine steel wool pad or scraping with a razor blade is ok.

We had to use a razor blade. It did make it look much better but we will be going out tomorrow to buy fine steel wool. We are going to do our best but it is blemished worse than the normal spillage. Unfortunately, I had put 2 pieces of foil side by side (yes, to preserve the pristine look of the unit as you said) and it started burning.

Thank you both for your input!


clipped on: 10.06.2009 at 09:33 am    last updated on: 10.06.2009 at 09:33 am

Actual Kitchen Map (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Like Raehelen, I created an MS Word document...well, actually two.

The first was a list of everything I had in my old kitchen plus everything that should have been stored in the kitchen but wasn't.

The second document was a "map" of my kitchen. First, I took a picture of my kitchen design and, in MS PowerPoint, labeled each cabinet & shelf/drawer. There were two pictures, one for each side of the kitchen. Then, I saved them as "jpg" images. I then inserted them into an MS Word document, each on its own page. I then created a table with one row for each shelf/drawer.

My last step was to map the items from the first document to the cabinets & shelves/drawers in the second document.

That document is now in our new kitchen and is used by everyone to remember where everything goes.

This process worked great!

Now, here's my map/list (sorry the pics are so big, but when I made them smaller they were illegible!):

Sink/Window Wall Kitchen Map (medium)

Cooktop Wall Kitchen Map (medium)



clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:30 pm

RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored, basement, dining room, etc.

  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:28 pm

RE: What goes where? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: holligator on 06.01.2009 at 10:56 am in Kitchens Forum

I organized the items in my kitchen according to the work "zones" I had arranged in my layout.

My prep zone consists of an island with a prep sink. In the cabinets under the island, I have everything I need for prep. My trash pull-out is at one end, and next to it is a large drawer where I keep two large stockpots and the box of trash bags. Above the large drawer is the shelf where my MW sits. The next cabinet has the really large stockpots (I do a lot of "big" cooking!). Next to that, there's the sink cabinet, and in the cabinet under the sink, I keep colanders and my chopper. The last cabinet in the island is a tray cabinet where I keep my cutting boards and cookie sheets (this is also directly across the aisle from my stove). I have three top drawers in the island. One drawer has a knife block in it where I keep all my knives. In another drawer, I keep all my other prep utensils, such as the garlic press, can opener, graters, etc. In the third drawer (the one over my trash cabinet), I keep miscellaneous junk that doesn't have an obvious spot elsewhere, such as chip clips, cork screws, etc. In the sink tip-out of the prep sink, I keep several of those little cheap, sharp paring knives from Pampered Chef, and a potato peeler.

In my cooking zone, which is the area flanking my stove, the narrow top drawer on one side holds pot holders and the wider one on the other side holds all my cooking utensils in dividers. In the drawers beneath the pot holders, I keep miscellaneous small baking pans, muffin tins, etc., along with the parts of my stove that I don't use a lot. Beneath the utensils, I have two wide, deep drawers that hold all my pots and pans. In the cabinets above, I keep spices to the right side of the stove, oils and vinegars above the stove, and coffee supplies on the left side (the coffee maker sits on the counter beneath this cabinet).

The clean-up zone is the area around my main sink and DW. Beneath the sink, I keep all my cleaning supplies and DW detergent. In the sink tip-out, I keep various scrubbies and my PC scrapers. In the tiny cabinet and drawer next to the sink, I keep dish towels and my soapstone oiling supplies (a bottle of mineral oil, a container of beesoil, and a large zip-lock bag with oily rags in it). The trash pull-out is directly across from the sink in the island, so it makes it convenient for clean-up, as well. Most of my dishes for eating, drinking, and serving are in the cabinets above the DW. The glasses are in the cabinet closest to the refrigerator. The silverware is in the drawer next to the DW, and beneath that, I have one drawer with other miscellaneous serving utensils and another with foil, baggies, etc. In the corner next to the DW is a lazy susan with all my small appliances stored on it.

Above the refrigerator, I keep my large mixing bowls and other seldom-used platters and trays. My "special" dishes are mostly on display on shelves to the right of the refrigerator, with the extras in cabinets beneath the shelves. Next to that, I have a broom closet, where in addition to the broom, swiffer, etc., I keep a container where I keep plastic grocery bags.

I have a desk where I keep a phone and phone message stuff, the dogs' cookie jar, a can with pencils, pens, and a pair of scissors, a stapler, and a clipboard with the grocery list on it. In the drawer under the desk, I keep miscellaneous junk and all our chargers. In the cabinet above the desk, I keep replacement lightbulbs, extra dog cookies, and a file box with all my appliance manuals and warranty info.

Next to the desk, I have pantry cabinets. These store all my dry goods, but since I have two cabinets like this, I have to organize where things go. I put all cans, jars, and bottles in one cabinet, along with cereal. In the other cabinet, I put all the staples, such as flour, sugar, rice, nuts, pastas, etc., which I store in stackable Tupperware Modular Mates. I also have small cabinets above the pantry cabs. In one of those, I keep all my Christmas dishes, and in the other, I keep baskets that I use for serving. In the cabinets beneath the pantries, I keep all my ovenware and additional serving dishes. In the middle, I have drawers where I keep all my plastic storage containers and reusable plastic plates and cups.

I have a large, nine-drawer chest in the adjoining eating area that stores a lot more stuff. I use one section for paper plates and plastic utensils. I use another for candles, centerpieces, and such. I use the last one section for placemats, cloth napkins, and table cloths.

Whew! I think that's everything!

As buehl mentioned, in the "Read Me" thread she has a great post about storage and zones. It's the second post in the thread.


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:20 pm

Kitechen Items (mappings) (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buehl on 09.12.2009 at 11:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

  1. 24", 3-drawer Base:
    • A.....Potholders
      B.....Cookie/Biscuit Cutters, Flour Sifter, Rolling Pin, Silicone Mats, KA Mixer Blades, Hand Mixer
    • C.....Bread Basket, Candles, Popsicle Makers, Coffee Strainers, Ice Trays, Misc

  2. 30" WD + 2 drawers
    • A.....Baking Tools: Pastry blender, Pastry Scraper, GF Pastry Brushes, GF Measuring Spoons, Decorating Tips, Egg Slicer, Pancake Forms, Bag Clips, Parchment Paper, Foil
    • B.....Soup Tureen, Glass Casserole/Serve/Store Dishes, Deviled Egg Plates, Cookie Press, Custard Bowls

  3. 6" Pullout
    • A-C.....Sprinkles

  4. 36" Cooktop + 3 drawers
    • A.....Knives, Can Opener, Apple Wedger, Strawberry Corer, Meatball Maker, Scissors, Measuring Spoons, Tenderizer Mallet, Peelers, Melon Ballers, Bottle Brush, Cheese Slicer
    • B.....Pots, Ladles, Turners
    • C.....Frying Pans & SS Casserole Pans, Double Boiler, Steamer, Tea Kettle

  5. 6" Pullout
    • A.....Recipe Tin, Salt, Pepper, Vanilla, Garlic, Paprika, Cinnamon, Baking Powder
    • B.....Cocoa, Spices, Crisco
    • C.....Molasses, Honey, Spices

  6. 31" Microwave Drawer + 1 drawer
    • A.....MW Bacon Pan, MW Steamer, Colanders, Popcorn Bowls

  7. 36" Corner Sink Base/Prep Sink
    • A.....Cutting Boards, Pastry Boards
    • B.....Detergent, Soap, Granite & SS Cleaners/Polishes, Hand Lotion, Wood Oil (for cutting boards), (Trash Can)

  8. 24", 4-Drawer Base
    • A.....Silverware/Flatware
    • B.....Plastic Wraps, Plastic Bags, Wax Paper
    • C.....Extension Cords, Switches, Power Cords
    • D.....Bread

  9. 27" Cabinet 1 drawer + 2 Roll Out Trays (Pet Center)
    • A.....Flashlights, Batteries
    • B.....Leashes, Pet Meds, Collars
    • C.....Dog Food, Treats

  10. 18" x 15" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....Snow Bear Dishes (Dinner Plates, Bowls)
    • B.....Snow Bear Dishes (Salad/Dessert Plates, Small Serving Bowls, Mugs)
    • C.....Snow Bear Dishes (Platters, Butter Dish)
    • D.....Snow Bear Dishes (Large Serving Bowls, Oval Serving Bowl, Salt & Pepper Shakers, Mugs)

  11. 21" x 12" Cabinet w/Glass Doors, 3 Shelves
    • A.....Decorative (Pitcher)
    • B.....Decorative (Tea Pot, Butter Tub, Sugar Bowl)
    • C.....Decorative (Big Bowl, Rectangular)

  12. 18" x 15" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....GF Measuring Cups (wet & dry), Nut Chopper, Toothpicks, Snow Bear Sugar & Creamer, Charlton Hall Butter Dish
    • B.....Spoon Rest Plates, GF Butter, Gravy Strainer, Funnels
    • C.....Cookbooks
    • D.....Specialty Stemware

  13. 18" x 15" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....Measuring Cups (wet & dry), Grater, Nut Chopper
    • B.....Salt & Pepper Shakers, Sugar Bowl, Butter, Cooktop Razor blades, Matches
    • C.....Small Prep Bowls, Shakers, Wine Glasses, Extra Glasses
    • D.....Pedestal Bowl, Pineapple Corer, Touch-up Kit, Misc

  14. 21" x 12" Cabinet w/Glass Doors, 3 Shelves
    • A.....Decorative (Justin & Laurens artwork)
    • B.....Tea Pot
    • C.....Decorative (Big Bowl, Tall Round)

  15. 18" x 15" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....School Lunch Supplies (Peanut Butter, Lunch Bags, Granola Bars, Plastic Spoons), Strawberry Quick
    • B.....Tea Supplies, Coffee Filters, Stapler, Tape, Sweet & Low, Corn Dishes
    • C.....Band-Aids, LactAid, Ibuprofen, Misc Medicines
    • D.....Foil Pans

  16. 36" Refrigerator + Cabinet Above
    • A.....Pitchers, Carafes, Napkin Holders
    • B.....Vases, Trivets, Christmas Cookie Containers

  17. 33", 3-Drawer Base
    • A.....Placemats (in season), Kitchen Linens: Dishcloths, Dish Towels, Microfiber Cloths
    • B.....Tupperware
    • C.....Tupperware, Water Bottles

  18. 18" Trash Pullout + Drawer
    • A.....Junk Drawer (Tape Measure, hooks, glue, etc)
    • B.....Trash, Recycling

  19. 36" Sink Base/Cleanup Sink
    • A.....Trash Bags, Cleaners (Tile/BKF)
    • B.....Hand Detergent, Soaps, DW Detergent

  20. Dishwasher

  21. 27", 3-Drawer Base
    • A.....Corkscrews, Ice Cream Scoops, Pizza Cutters, Bottle Openers, Oven Accessories (Meat Thermometers, Temperature Probe, Basters)
    • B.....Mixing Bowls, Rectangular & Round Casserole Dishes
    • C.....Pie Tins, Cake Pans, Jell-O Molds, Angel Food Cake Pan

  22. 30" Double Ovens in 31-1/2" Cabinet + Cabinet Above + Drawer Below
    • A.....Cooling Racks, Cookie Sheets, Pizza Pans
    • B.....Roasting Pans, Muffin Tins
    • C.....Griddle, Platters, Bread Plate, Small/Garnish Bowls & Plates
    • D.....Drawer: Soup Tureen, Oval Casserole Dishes, Loaf Pans, Rice Cooker, Large Salad/Party Bowls

  23. 23" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....Glasses
    • B.....Mugs
    • C.....Plastic Cups, Drink Containers
    • D.....Huggies

  24. 23" Cabinet, 4 Shelves
    • A.....Yorktowne Dishes (Dinner Plates, Bowls)
    • B.....Yorktowne Dishes (Salad/Dessert Plates, Oval Serving Bowls, Divided Serving Bowl, Large Cereal/Soup Bowls
    • C.....Yorktowne Dishes (Rimmed Soup Bowls, Round Serving Dishes, Creamer, Small Platters, Butter Dish)
    • D.....Yorktowne Dishes (Mugs, Saucers, Gravy Boat, Soup Crocks

  25. Pantry Left Side
    • Wall.....Swifters
    • Floor.....Toaster Oven, Coffee Maker, Plastic & Paper Bags
    • Shelf 1.....Potato Bins (2), Napkins, Slow Cooker
    • Shelf 2.....Appliance Manuals, Extra Cookbooks, Extra Knives (Block), Paper Plates, Plastic Cups, Liquor
    • Shelf 3.....Gluten-Free Foods, Small Coffee Maker
    • Shelf 4.....Large Food Processor Blades, Snacks, Hot Chocolate
    • Shelf 5.....Large Food Processor, Cereals, Dry Milk

  26. Pantry Right Side
    • Wall.....Broom, Dustpan, Back of Message Center Niche w/Outlets & Phone Charger Switch
    • Floor.....Stool, Swifter Refills, Omelet Makers, Ice Bucket
    • Shelf 1.....Canisters (Flour, Sugar, Brown Sugar, Powdered Sugar, Bread Flour), GF Pancake Mix, Taco Supplies, Plastic silverware
    • Shelf 2.....Waffle Iron, Toaster, Bread Maker, Blender, Directories
    • Shelf 3.....Small Food Processor, Canned Foods, Misc Baking Supplies
    • Shelf 4.....Dry Potatoes, Rice, Bisquick, Pasta, Teas, Lemonade
    • Shelf 5.....Crackers, Light Bulbs, Jams, Misc.....
    • Shelf 6.....Large Round Platters, Chip & Dip Bowls, Hot Plate, Paper Towels

  27. Counter: Charging Station, KA Stand Mixer, Banana Holders, Paper Towel Holders (2), TV/DVD, Cable Box, Timer, Plants, Utensil Crocks

  28. Utensil Crock, Left: Gluten Free Tools Scrapers, Wooden Spoons, SS Spoons/Fork/Pasta Spoon, Whisk, Tongs, Masher

  29. Utensil Crock, Right: Non-GF Tools Scrapers, Wooden Spoons, SS Spoons/Fork, Whisk, Tongs, Masher, Pastry Brushes

  30. Message Center Niche: Calendar, Phone, Answering Machine, Post-It Notepads, Pens & Pencils, Keys, Cell Phone Charger


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:18 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:18 pm

RE: forestfire..please help me with my lists (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: desertsteph on 09.12.2009 at 02:16 am in Kitchens Forum

can you make a good guess at how many spatulas you had? ladles? tongs? think about different 'cooking' areas - at the stove, mixing (wisk), masher, meat pounder, large stirring spoons, slotted spoons, carving fork/knife, salad spoons/fork, can openers(bottle - 3 kinds probably), pickle fork? rolling pin, bowl scrappers (I have several of those).

measuring cups, spoons, strainers, peelers, brush, veggie slicer, apple slicer/corer, lid gripper? turner? funnels? egg separator? serving spoons/forks

these things can run up a bill! i've seen silicon spatulas for 7.00 and up to 20.00. I only have 2 at this time but when i used to cook having 5 wouldn't have been overload. i think replacing these things could be 300.00 easily. my can opener (side style) runs about 15.00 (plus tax - don't forget that!)

someone had an open utensil drawer - was it buehl? things in there might jog the memory.

found one - and it has a pizza slicer in it! and don't forget kitchen scissors!

it was buehl's - she gave a link i guess - I hope it's ok to post the url for it.

so sorry about your lovely home! thank God you are all ok tho!

Here is a link that might be useful: buehl's drawers


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:15 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:15 pm

RE: size of drawers for dishes? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: rhome410 on 09.12.2009 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our dish drawer cabinets are 23" wide...That's what we had room for. We don't have pegs. Our drawers are 3-stacks, with a shallower drawer on top and 2 equally deep drawers underneath. Their faces are 7", 11 3/4", and 11 3/4". I think the drawer boxes themselves are about 5", 8", and 8", but those 8" drawers have additional clearance, of course, so if we want, things can be taller than the 8".

Anyway, we do stack plates 12 high, but never could with bowls, because with ours, that would be about 3 ft high! ;-) We keep our cereal bowls to 4 high. Actually, I just checked our shallower and wider soup/pasta bowls and they can be 12 high, too.

Here are some old photos of the open drawers. We have since moved the Tupperware to another location and have serving pieces and the soup bowls in that drawer.



clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:13 pm

RE: Pantry shelves--fixed or adjustable? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: desertsteph on 10.04.2009 at 05:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

I agree to keep the shelves about 12-15 if no pull outs.

you might have a lower shelf a bit deeper for a case of veggies (or whatever you might buy) or those other larger items.

if you have even about 4-5" (deep) along one side (like the right side of Rhome's) you could put up about 10" wide shelves (not that high between tho) for things like a row of soups, things like salad dressings, ketchup, mustard or tomato paste, 8 oz tomato sauce, etc. I buy olives in those tiny cans and usually keep a small can of mushrooms or 2 on hand.

those would also be useful for extra boxes of tin foil, plastic wrap and baggies. i think even the boxes of mac 'n cheese would fit on them.

use the wall space on the other side to hang your broom, swifter etc


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:08 pm

RE: Sharb-inspired Pantry Done! (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: buehl on 02.19.2009 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pantry Plans:


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:05 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:05 pm

RE: Sharb-inspired Pantry Done! (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: buehl on 11.06.2008 at 12:04 am in Kitchens Forum

LOL! It's actually only about 41" along the left wall (15" shelves) and 51" along the wall w/the 12" shelves!

It's really a "step-in" pantry, not a "walk-in" pantry!

It's smaller than our old pantry, but the old pantry had 18" deep shelves in a 3' deep x 6' long area that was always so disorganized. Things were always getting lost in there! The disorganization and "lost" problems I think were due in large part to the deep shelves and wasted space in front. I like this much better! The smaller size will force me to only store reasonable amounts of stuff in it and put the rest in the larger overflow pantry in the basement. I don't think there's enough room for anything to get lost in this one!

BTW...Originally, the current cookbook shelf was supposed to be for small appliances as well, but when I started putting things away in the kitchen I realized I had completely forgotten about providing a place for cookbooks!!!


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:04 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:04 pm

Sharb-inspired Pantry Done!

posted by: buehl on 11.04.2008 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finally finished our DIY Sharb-inspired pantry! (Sorry folks, no chandelier!)

Here are the pics....

Come visit my pantry...

Pantry Entrance...

The door opens...

Entering the pantry...

The left side...

The left side has 15" deep shelves and holds, top-to-bottom, cereals, snacks & drinks, gluten-free foods, cookbooks & appliance manuals, two bins--one for yams & one for white potatoes, and toaster oven & coffeemaker on the floor. (Small appliance shelf now holds cookbooks. Toaster Oven & coffee maker are now on the floor.)

Left Side, top

Left Side, middle

Left Side, bottom/floor

The right side...

The right side has 12" deep shelves and holds, top-to-bottom, paper towels, baking/cooking supplies (next 3 shelves), small appliances, more baking supplies. The floor has a stool & paper plates & plastic cups. My extra oven racks are leaning against the far right wall. Eventually, we will be mounting our broom & dustpan there. (Don't know where the extra oven racks will go.)

Right Side, top half

Right Side, bottom half


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:03 pm

RE: Pantry shelves--fixed or adjustable? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: rhome410 on 10.03.2009 at 10:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Pictures may be worth 1000 words, so I'll start there:



Bulk items (wheat berries, pet food, huge bag of pinto beans) in rolling bins on the floor, so a 19" space from the floor to the first shelf. Next 2 spaces are about 14" to fit larger containers and my grain mill. The middle 2 shelves have 10" spacing for canned goods stacked 2 high. Above that are shelves about 14" apart again...For cereal boxes, gallon jugs, paper towels.

My back shelves are 16" deep.

Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be glad to be more specific if I can.


clipped on: 10.04.2009 at 10:00 pm    last updated on: 10.04.2009 at 10:00 pm

RE: Knife holder for drawer (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: akchicago on 09.29.2009 at 10:24 am in Kitchens Forum

I have the Henckels' 13-slot knife tray and love it. I never liked my previous countertop knife block because it took up too much space on my counter, and I couldn't tell quickly which knife was which when I needed to pull out a knife. I like this Henckels tray because it has the most slots of any that I saw when I was shopping; some of the other trays I saw were 7 slots or less. I like how it's configured too--it holds my 6 steak knives (or whatever knives you want) and has a special sharpener slot, plus slots for 6 other various knives.

However, I think I overpaid for the "Henckels" logo, which, of course, no one can see cause it's in the drawer. It costs about $35. There are a couple of other posters here who have this same 13-slot knife tray, without the cute Henckels logo, who paid about $10-15 less at Costco, or other stores. No matter, it's still a great item in my kitchen. You can read all the positive reviews on the Amazon link below.

Before you buy one of these drawer knife holders, make sure your drawer will fit it for all three dimensions, L x W AND H.

Here is a link that might be useful: Henckels 13-slot Knife Tray at Amazon


clipped on: 09.29.2009 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2009 at 02:43 pm