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RE: T4 versus T5 in undercabinet fixtures. (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: davidr on 03.29.2007 at 06:15 pm in Lighting Forum

What Jon says was true years ago, but not any more. "Cool white" was often used (and still often is) to refer to the old halophosphate phosphor T12 lamps, which had low CRI (in the 60 range or less). These do yield rather unpleasant light and poor color rendering.

"Warm white" also used to refer to modified halophosphate lamps. Often these had even lower CRI than the cool white lamps, in the 40s or 50s. These did an absolutely horrible job on colors.

However, modern T8 lamps have a blend of 3 types of rare earth phosphors. This gives a much better light and a wide range of color temperature (CT) and color rendering index (CRI).

You can get T8s in 4100K color temperature with high CRI (82 or so). These have a somewhat chilly light but it's much improved over the dreary light from the old T12s. They still feel like living under a perpetually cloudy sky, but at least the color rendering is better. They're incredibly bright, BTW.

The 3000K T8 lamps with 82+ CRI produce a very pleasant warm light which blends well with incandescents. The pinkish cast of old warm whites is gone, and color look good and warm under them. They're so far ahead of the old warm white that there's no comparison.

When buying T8 lamps, look at the product code on the lamp. It depends on the manufacturer, but most adhere to this convention. You'll usually see something like "F32T8/741" or "F32T8/830." There may be some other letters in there, but what you're concerned with is the last 3 digits (after the slash).

The first digit designates the CRI, the last two stand for the color temperature. Thus an 830 lamp is 82CRI, 3000K and a 741 lamp is 74CRI and 4100K. You usually want the first digit to be as high as possible, and the last two are more a matter of taste.

I use 830 lamps in living spaces, and 835 or 735 lamps for the cellar and garage. If you're fitting out an artist's studio or a laundry room, you might want 850 or 865 (bluish-tinged daylight).

There are also a few very high (90+) CRI lamps available. Osram-Sylvania and/or Philips (sorry, don't recall which) make 930, 950, and 965 types. These are fairly expensive and usually have to be special ordered, but they should produce excellent color rendering.

Hope this helps.

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clipped on: 01.08.2009 at 02:52 am    last updated on: 01.08.2009 at 02:52 am

RE: 3 drawers 4 drawers which to pick (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rhome410 on 12.05.2008 at 10:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have 3 everywhere and love them.

Dish drawers (2 banks):
stacks of plates, bowls, and serveware are in the deeper ones and cups/mugs in the shallower top drawers.

In my bfast/snack center:
Top (shallow): breads
Deeper #1: napkins, paper plates, paper plate baskets
Deeper #2: Water bottles soon to be replaced with Tupperware type containers

In my baking center:
Top: measuring spoons and cups, spatulas, rolling pin, etc.
Deeper #1: blender and blender parts, mixer parts, food processor and attachments
Deeper #2: pizza pans, cookie sheets

Near my sink and prep area:
Top: towels
Deeper #1: melamine mixing bowl set and collanders
Deeper #2: Glass mixing bowl set and salad spinner

To the right of my stove:
Top: cooking utensils
Deeper #1: Panini grill, cast iron stovetop grill
Deeper #2: 2 waffle irons

To the left of my stove:
Top: Whisks and can openers, etc.
Deeper #1: Pot lids (pots are in 2 deep drawers under rangetop)
Deeper #2: 2 woks and wok grate

NOTES:

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clipped on: 12.07.2008 at 02:18 am    last updated on: 12.07.2008 at 02:18 am

RE: What's the Best Garbage Disposal (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cpovey on 01.31.2008 at 07:00 pm in Appliances Forum

Disposal in the prep sink? Yes, I use mine in the prep sink much more than in the one in main sink.

In general, I agree with what the others have said: 3/4 to 1 HP, all stainless cutters and chamber. And yes, there are just two makers of disposals in the USA.

Most people get continuous feed models, not the batch feed models. These require a switch, but when turned on work until all the food is gone. Batch feed models (about twice the price) require you to load them, then run a batch, and if there is more food, to repeat the process. Batch feed models are larger than continuous feed models, which is sometimes a consideration, especially in preps sinks (small cabinets).

Two other points to consider: If you are putting one in an island, get an air switch. Only about $50, this devices allows you to install a waterproof switch on the island top for the disposal. Not needed on a unit installed next to a wall. Buttons to match any finish of faucet are available (most come with white and chrome buttons, with others extra cost). Have the electrician provide a non-switched outlet for the air switch. Second, look for a prep sink with the drain in the rear or in a rear corner. This makes MUCH more of the space in the cabinet available for storage.

NOTES:

Batch disposals:
- larger diameter opening, no rubber flange
- stopper controls on/off

Continuous:
- control by air switch in island, (get a non-switched outlet)

In both cases, look for prep sink with drain in rear or rear corner, to maximize cabinet space.

clipped on: 12.04.2008 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2008 at 01:19 pm

RE: LG vs. Samsung French Door Fridge (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: kharmony on 10.11.2007 at 04:28 pm in Appliances Forum

I replaced my sxs with the Samsung french door w/ ice dispenser. Even though they were the same size, I have MUCH more room in the Samsung. The Samsung also has the half shelf for taller items. Sorry - the soda can spots were in the Amana, not the LG. The Samsung does not have the tilt-out drawer in the freezer like the LG does. While I was shopping, a few salespeople expressed displeasure with the way the LG doors come together versus the Samsung and Amana/Maytag. The LG does not have the strip but instead the seals meet together when the doors close. They said they have had the seals wearing out prematurely (and showed me one of them) where the seals hit each other. I don't know if anyone has experienced this at home.

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clipped on: 12.04.2008 at 12:41 am    last updated on: 12.04.2008 at 12:41 am

RE: Help please on flooring installation/selection for home offic (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jerry_t on 11.13.2008 at 05:15 pm in Flooring Forum

You have a ton of questions and I will do my best to address them, I also have AADD so if I start to ramble and jump back and forth just overlook that :).

We need to simplify this more because there are certain issues you can't change..... being on a slab and the weight issues. Any slab has to be reasonably flat and dry, but in your case it needs to be almost dead flat and dry.

We are supposed to always check slabs for vapor emissions that can go unoticed when there is carpet over top that allows the slab to breath and release moisture without any problems. You have an 18yr. old glued down wood floor that has exhibited no problems, in my view that is as good an indicator one is going to get..... so we'll just say you are dry.

I don't know how many sq.ft. is involved but it takes some space for an installer to check the slab for flatness and then take measures to correct it. Sometimes a low spot can be a few feet in diameter and with the feathering needed I may need 6', 8' or more to deal with it. If I don't have space I could be featuring up to a high spot underneath furniture. It is best to try and figure a way to go one room a time, clean it out, then go on to the next room.

If you have your heart set on an engineered BC, then get it :), life is too short to fret over that as long as you know about this issue and are okay with it. On glued down floors the thickness does not really matter as much as opposed to floating. What does matter is the top wear layer thickness and using the right adhesive. A 3mm or 4mm thick wear layer is actually better in the long run as a 5mm thick . Going too thick with the wear layer can cause a phenomenon called "dry cupping" .... the NWFA and NOFMA are aware of this and it is being addressed.

If you go with a glued down engineered wood floor and want to put on a sealer as "insurance" , then do it. In your case I would strongly consider using Stauf 960 which is a quality sealer and adhesive combined in one application. You pay alot more for the adhesive but you only have one labor issue.

Imo you could also go with a floating floor. But to pull this off you must use a quality product and (here I go again)..... the concrete must be flat. There is a laminate out there that I have personally installed that is almost bullet proof. That would be Wilsonart , which is a high pressure laminate referred to as an HPL. Putting that down along with using their blue fusion glue in the joinery can take any weight you want to put on top of it. When I do that I recommend to the client upgrading the underlayment to a product Sound Solutions. You cannot walk on this type of install and tell that it floats.

You could also go with a floating engineered wood... this is where thickness comes into play. I prefer to use nothing less than a 1/2" in thickness and a where the joints get glued up, or, choose a good reliable click-lock system like the valinge or Uniclic joinery systems. They both hold together well. The wood should also be waht is called balanced.... the top layer equals the bottom.

You are very typical of alot of my clients. Quit stressing so much :).

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clipped on: 12.02.2008 at 05:09 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2008 at 05:09 pm

RE: Best Underlayment for engineered wood floating floor (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jerry_t on 12.02.2007 at 04:47 am in Flooring Forum

I have not used cork, so I can't speak about that. I have used many other underlayments including FloorMuffler. In my personal experience Sound Solutions underlayment is the best for what you are asking about. One person can't hardly lift and carry a 6ft wide roll of this.

Three things you need to have to achieve a quiet and fairly solid feeling floating floor.

The substrate has to flat,flat,flat.
Use a premium underlayment.
Pick a quality floor with excellent milling and a stout joinery system, and the thicker it is the better imo.

I have installed this way before and it is very solid feeling underfoot. Most folks are surprised when they discover it's a floating floor.

NOTES:

Sound Solutions underlayment
clipped on: 11.27.2008 at 01:51 am    last updated on: 12.02.2008 at 05:06 pm

RE: Miele Induction (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: yolande_1951 on 05.18.2008 at 07:47 pm in Appliances Forum

I just played around with the Miele 36 inch induction this afternoon. I am in Canada: on the bottom left is a 9 inch hob, topped with a smaller one (forgot to measure - probably 5 or 6; the middle is 11 inches, the right side 2, 8 inch hobs. The sales person said that you can put a single oven underneath and need 1 inch clearance.

You have to turn the Miele on and then press the + or - to increase/decrease heat. I don't think that you can jump to medium or high - increases in single digit units, but easily. As far as I can tell by just boiling 2 inches of water,it seemed to function as I would expect. Each hob has a booster function and each can accommodate different pan sizes.

The stainless rim is very narrow and seems to be raised, so I don't expect that it will cause problems. Apparently there are many things that it can do that take learning: timer, pause, etc

For what it is worth, the sales person said that she wants it for her house. BTW, she said that the steam oven is unbelievable.

Judy

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clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 08:07 pm    last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 08:07 pm

RE: Opinions on Hot water heat (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: healthyheating on 05.20.2008 at 10:17 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

There is an abundance of reliable information comparing different heating and cooling systems based on numerous measurable metrics (comfort, efficiency, noise, exergy, response times) a few suggested readings with links:

From the International Energy Association, Table One (pg 25), Fig 25 and 26 (pg 35 & 36), Table 6 and from "Heating and Cooling with Focus on Increased Energy Efficiency and Improved Comfort Guidebook to IEA ECBCS Annex 37, Low Exergy Systems for Heating and Cooling of Buildings, Summary Report

http://www.lowex.net/english/inside/frames/text/material_in.html
_____

ASHRAE Research Project 1036, Develop Simplified Methodology to Determine Heat Transfer Design Impacts Associated with Common Installation Alternatives for Radiant Conduit, FINAL REPORT

http://www.ngml.ksu.edu/research/project_archive/project_archive_publications/ashrae/1036_final_report.pdf
______

Development and Demonstration of a Performance Test Protocol for Radiant Floor Heating Systems, Amit Khanna, Thesis submitted to the Faculty of the Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science In Architecture Dr. James Jones, Chairman, Prof. Robert Schubert Dr. Mike Ellis, 2006

http://www.chple.arch.vt.edu/CHPLE%20Research%20files/Khanna,%20Amit.pdf
_______

Radiant Floor Heating In Theory and Practice, Bjarne W. Olesen, Fellow ASHRAE, ASHRAE Journal, July 2002

http://www.flextherm.com/doc/b%E9n%E9fices/Radiant_Floor_Heating_in_Theory_and_Practice.pdf
______

Ontario Association of Architects Conference Slides on Radiant Cooling and Heating

http://blogs.healthyheating.com/2008/05/ontario-associa.html
______

As far as expansion noise:

For those who insist on using pex to pipe up high temp radiators or baseboard and then complain about noise...

http://www.healthyheating.com/photogallery/Pipe_Expansion_Graph_small.jpg

See also Page 14: http://www.toolbase.org/pdf/fieldevaluations/HFHSchenectadyFinalReport.pdf

Ticked Off, How to Reduce Noise from Heat Transfer Plates, John Siegenthaler

http://www.hpac.sartech.ca/digimag/display.asp?a=481

____

There is academic research and practical field knowledge for just about any topic related to HVAC - most of it available free of charge to the public.

Use from it what makes sense to you - and if so motivated - dig deeper into that which is more challenging.

NOTES:

Great pointers on radiant system design. Look up the stuff on how to keep it from being noisy!
clipped on: 12.01.2008 at 02:33 am    last updated on: 12.01.2008 at 02:34 am

RE: regular geothermal vs. direct geothermal (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: LazyPup on 04.15.2005 at 03:28 pm in Renewable Energy Forum

Knoto..obviously you are not quite as familiar with geothermal systems as you would presume us to believe. Refrigerant is never run through plastic piping.

In a direct system refrigerant copper tubing is buried and the refrigerant passes through that.

In an indirect system a loop of plastic tubing is buried and a water/antifreeze brine solution is circulated through a heat exchanger. The refrigerant passes through the opposite side of the heat exchanger in a short loop.

Desuperheating for domestic hot water can be achieved on both types of systems, and if connected correctly it can be used in both heating and cooling modes.

I first became interested in geothermal systems while attending HVAC school in Corpus Christi, Tx in the early 80's. Since then I have custom built a number of geothermal systems in Texas, Florida, and recently on my new home in western Pennsylvania.

The system i have in my home now is an adaptation of a commercial/institutional chiller type circulating hydronic system that incorporates hydronic heat by means of infloor radiation, some baseboard radiation and forced air coils for quick recovery or peak demand. It is running three separate compressors. a two ton, and two one ton units. During worst case demand all three compressors run for a total of four tons, but as the demand drops compressors drop offline to conserve energy.

This system originally cost me $11,000 in materials plus my labor and engineering, but I have now recieved a grant from both the Ohio Edison Electric company and the Ohio State University to operate this as a "Good Sense Home" proto type system.

AC is accomplished by means of conventional AC evaporator coils for cooling and humidity, with re-heat for actual temperature control.

Although I did initially install a 40 gal natural gas water heater during the primary testing period I intentionally did not light the gas burner to see if the Geothermal could meet the demand. A year later while performing some preventative maintenance on the system I realized i still had not lit the water heater.

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clipped on: 11.27.2008 at 04:20 am    last updated on: 11.27.2008 at 04:20 am

RE: Which Closed Loop Geothermal HVAC System? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: fsq4cw on 10.13.2008 at 11:20 am in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

"I am looking for a system that has a dedicated "water-to-water" cycle that can provide continuous hot water even during the periods when no space heating or cooling is required for the house."

What youre looking for is a Nordic Triple Function GSHP.

Go to:

http://www.nordicghp.com/mg/

Click on: Products

Click on: TF-Series

Click on: R410a Models PDF Download the Installation Manual

Everything you want to know and more - is right there!

You can also download the PDF for the R22 Models.

BTW: I cannot, as of yet, say that in all my travels that Ive seen a better built HP than Nordic.

IMO

SR

Here is a link that might be useful: Nordic Triple Function Series GSHP

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clipped on: 11.27.2008 at 02:19 am    last updated on: 11.27.2008 at 02:20 am

RE: Drawers under Induction Cooktop? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: canuck99 on 08.20.2008 at 03:22 pm in Appliances Forum

Well simple answer is the Miele unit is great.

the US unit is slightly different than the Canadian version. Burners are slightly different and there is a double boast on the big burner. The install is slightly different. a little more space for the US (likely due to slightly higher output. I have 122 volts on my line in the house so I'm sure I have 240+ volts to the unit so the power rating are normally for 230 Volts. So I have lots of power.

Why is it great. All the items you have read about are true, quick have your most stuff prepared in advance. It takes a few mins/secs to heat the pan. Turn down to stop or slow the cooing process is very quick so you have lots of control. The individual timers are great. Example making a sauce and pasta with a vegtable side. Get sauce going and focus and getting most ingrediants in and cooking. Fill pot for water and get it boiling (mins to get going). Place pasta in pot set "timer" for.... 3-4 mins for fresh and 7-8 for dried. Turn down sauce to keep warm set timer for 1-2 mins more than pasta time. Place some water in pot for vegtables (steam quantity) come to a boil 1 min, place vegables into pot close cover and set power and timer for xxxx depending on type of vegtable.

Should have 3 mins before all timers are complete....time to pour wine and set table.

The first number of times of use will have to get the feel for what power setting give what results but after that it is very predictable. The timer use will come after a few uses and now that you have the capability you will use it. Timing use for rice is great.

The ability to add more to the pan/pot and hit the up button and what seems like a few secs get a result and then set it back down is great.

Initially I had just the 12 levels programmed. I have sinced added the 1/2 steps to get 23 levels to get that low end control and it is great.

If you need to simmer a sauce/soup down over an hour you can set the control till you are happy and set the timer for 60 mins and go work on something else.

OK enough I hope you get the point. Try doing that with gas. No offense to the gas people. I'm just describing what I have done and like some things the real thing is better than the dream. I wil not talk about cleanup but imagine cleanup like cleaning/polishing a 2x3 window. (short/sweet)

NOTES:

Why Canuck99 really likes his Miele cooktop.

- really fast heat-up.
- timer-based cooking
- quick response to turning down
- 1/2 level steps, total of 23 to get low-end control.

clipped on: 11.24.2008 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 11.24.2008 at 11:17 pm

RE: High End Appliances Pricing (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: fairegold on 07.09.2007 at 09:14 am in Appliances Forum

Antss, when a customer is considering a large purchase, and I mean buying a number of appliances, not one or two Frigidaire units, but a total price tag of $10K and up, it does not hurt at all to ask the store to do something to make the sale. Especially since the other retailers of these products have the price at the same. So if store A and store B have the exact same prices, the the consumer needs to start asking each store what they will do for his business. Why should I buy from you? And "quality of service" means nothing anymore, especially when consumer must contact the manufacturer to arrange for service.

So ask for delivery, a free disposal, free warranties (altho i would never buy one), free installation, etc.

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 02:21 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 02:21 am

RE: Sharp Microwave Draw (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: paxispl on 10.04.2008 at 03:07 pm in Appliances Forum

It's been great! It's in our island. I, like you, was concerned about the relative cost, but it was my one "toy" for the kitchen. My DH, his kitchen "toy" was the wine cooler. Here are some pics of our Sharp Microwave Drawer:
P5201133

P5201134

P5201100

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 02:03 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 02:03 am

RE: Sharp Microwave Draw (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: buehl on 10.06.2008 at 10:25 pm in Appliances Forum

We have one as well and have been using it for a few months now (it was the first thing ready to use in our kitchen....weeks before the countertop went in!)

Everything I've put in it has fit, sensor cook works very well (much better than my "old" Amana), the soft-open/close keep things from sloshing, and no leaning/bending down to reach inside a regular MW. We did have a couple of splatter incidents (my DS forgets to cover is tomato-based dishes!)...but I just reached inside and wiped around it the ceiling a few times, checked it (yes you do have to bend over or sit on the floor to check the ceiling of the MW) and it was done. [Note if you do get something stuck or dried on in a MW, boil a couple of cups of water in it for a couple of minutes...it softens stuck on food.]

As to the cost...it cost the same as the Dacor MW + trim kit that I was going to put in my oven stack originally.

I also use the Keep Warm feature when there's only one thing to keep warm (otherwise I use my WD).

Sharp MW Drawer

(Picture b/f we took off the plastic covering over the control panel...we didn't take it off until all contractor work was done in the kitchen. We figured it offered a bit of protection.)

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clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 04:02 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 02:02 am

RE: Finally Deceided on a Dishwasher. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: wolfc70 on 11.17.2008 at 01:54 pm in Appliances Forum

After using my new Bosch SHX55M06Uc dishwasher for a few good runs, I can give a better review.
It does an excellent job of cleaning. I mainly use the Auto wash mode, and things come out clean with no prerinsing. It is very quiet, you can hear it running, but only if within a few feet of the dishwasher. It is mainly a water sloshing sound, and a faint hum during filling as the solenoid opens. It is very flexible in loading, much better than my old In Sink Erator. Dishes are fairly dry with rinse agent, but my old In Sink Erator had a broken heating element, so I am used to having some water on my dishes, and it really does not bother me.

Overall I am really impressed with the quality of the Bosch, very good attention to deatils. My installer said they are very service friendly if they need it. I highly recommend looking at Bosch dishwashers! So far I am very satisfied.

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 01:30 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 01:30 am

RE: retractable downdraft for island cooktop/rangetop (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mcmann on 11.09.2008 at 07:59 pm in Appliances Forum

We installed our first retractable downdraft on our island 21 years ago when we put on our kitchen addition. We had a Thermador cooktop and vent system. It worked fine. We remodeled the kitchen 2 years ago and installed a Dacor cooktop and a downdraft with a remote blower. Again - it works fine. Neither unit pulled on the gas flames. We stir fry a couple of times a month without any problems. We also sear steaks in a hot cast iron pan on the cooktop without undue smoke. And the vent removes the fish smells easily too. I must admit that I thought the worst problem with a downdraft might be that the ceiling over the cooktop would discolor or yellow from the steam. That didn't happen either.

I will disagree with live wire oak about the overhead vent being above your line of sight. It is - when you're looking down at the cooktop. But the rest of the time it's right there, hovering over your head. Now this is a matter of preference. I didn't want another hood. Our kitchen is 30 by 18, my island is 12 feet and does have a prep sink and we didn't want the vent to be a focal point. It would visually block the view of the walk in bay window at the end of the kitchen. We also didn't want our back to our family and guests while cooking - that's why we choose the island for the cooktop. Again this was our preference.

An overhead vent system is more efficient, but you can easily live with a downdraft unit. Think about how you cook and then decide what is best for you.

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 01:26 am

RE: retractable downdraft for island cooktop/rangetop (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mcmann on 11.10.2008 at 09:15 pm in Appliances Forum

We have had the Dacor Epicure Cooktop (ESG 366 sch) for three years. It is one of the larger ones - check the Dacor website for photos - they still make the same model rangetop. Dacor offers 2 different remote blowers for the raised vent system- we went with the smaller one which I think is rated at 1000 CFM's, I'm not sure about the larger one, it might be 1600 CFM's- but it is huge and we didn't have the space on the outside wall where we wanted to install it. As it turns out, the 1000 one is fine.

There have been several posters here who have married the Dacor downdraft with a different brand cooktop - just like canuck did with the Miele induction.

Godd luck.

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 01:25 am    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 01:25 am

RE: 30' Warming Drawers -- Any Differences Among the Brands? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on 08.03.2008 at 02:43 am in Appliances Forum

Hint....put your warming drawer as close to your range as possible. There have been several threads over the past few months on the Kitchens side asking if WDs were worth the $$$. It seemed that those who placed their WDs near their range where it would be easy to take things from the range/oven & put in the WD used theirs much more & were happier with them than those who placed them across the room--including those in an oven stack.

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clipped on: 11.22.2008 at 03:48 am    last updated on: 11.22.2008 at 03:50 am

RE: Best dishwasher - opinions please! Dry plastic?? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: aprince on 05.31.2008 at 03:54 pm in Appliances Forum

"The LG dishwashers are the quietest that you can buy under $1000 and that still have a hard food disposal blade. Yes, the Euro type DW's are quieter, but have a filter screen that needs periodic cleaning and that many people have reported has contributed to an odor in their DWs."

Just an FYI, the odor is usually not caused by the filter screen. The main culprit is the drainage line not being installed correctly when used in conjunction with a sink that has a garbage disposal. The suction is powerful enough to pull waste from inside the disposer down into the DW. By installing a "Gap" or "loop", this solves the
the problem.

Also, there are basically two ways to view buying a DW. Do you want efficiency in speed/drying, or do you want efficiency in energy use.

For speed and if you want your dishes dry, go with an American unit which uses an element to heat water and air. For a more energy efficient model, buy a European unit from Miele, or Asko. These use water heaters to heat the water but aren't the best at drying.

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clipped on: 11.21.2008 at 02:24 am    last updated on: 11.21.2008 at 02:24 am

RE: Miele vs. Electrolux wall ovens (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pggirl on 05.08.2008 at 11:41 am in Appliances Forum

Wrote a long message and lost it while checking the link worked. So edited version now.

We have an Electrolux 30 inch single wall oven mounted under counter. As such the roller racks are very important. The work great at rolling out and loading and unloading without having to dig into the oven if you know what I mean.

Had it in since TG last year. Has been working fine and cooks well. Used both convection and non on it. Cooked hams, yorkshires, cakes, cookies, chips, roast potatoes, nan and other stuff I can't remember. Good results on all for us. Happy that we purchased it and was more budget friendly than some others out there.

Electrolux is really only just putting the big push on the US market which last I saw was on the decline market wise. Either way they have invested a lot recently and I see now they are heavily advertising on the telly. Electrolux appliances have been around quite a while in Europe.

Picking at it the only things that we've found on it is the capacity is perhaps a bit tight. The rack design does not cover the full cavity. I believe this is for performance of the convection flow characteristic wise, but nothing to support that. We've not found it to be a real issue as we have a 36 range for anything we want to do in bulk or if we want to do a huge roast in the 36 and then can do the potatoes, yorkshires etc. in the Electrolux. Just have to work with what pans you are going to use. A half sheet pan goes in, but sideways. On the 36 of course you can fit two straight in on the same rack (full sheet capacity).

Actually we end up using the Electrolux more than the 36 as it heats faster so for day in day out quick oven cooking it gets the nod.

Ours has a glass door. The inner and outer glass have an airgap between that is open at the bottom. This can allow dust to get in between. Has not been a real issue, but we have had some get in here and there as it is mounted so low.

When installed the temp was a bit low compared to number set at. In the instructions it shows how to easily adjust.

Cooling fan is not noisy, but does run on a while after the oven is off. Not really and issue, but you do get a rush of air blowing on you as you walk by.

That is really about it. We are happy with it and glad we bought it.

One word on the racks. Be sure your installer mounts the oven level and takes the time to get it right. One showroom we looked at the oven in had the oven tipped a bit forward. When you open the door the racks would drift out. On the other hand, if the oven was installed down at the back then your racks would be floating back in when you pull them out. Ours is bang on and works well. Nice to have and super handy. The rollers work smooth with a sheet of cookies to a 13 pound ham we just cooked in it. No problems.

I've linked a picture of the one we have just so you can compare as I don't remember what model number it is. Please excuse the kitchen in process pictures as not taken any since then. Kitchen isn't one of these palace ones that are often on here, but works great for us for being so small and that we really cook in it constantly.

Best of luck with your decision and hope that helps a bit at least.
Cheers

Here is a link that might be useful: Picture

NOTES:

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clipped on: 11.19.2008 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2008 at 05:27 pm

RE: best energy saving building techniques (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: schreibdave on 10.26.2008 at 08:54 pm in Building a Home Forum

Aside from Demilec spray foam in the walls, my only energy saving upgrade has been to get the buiders agreement to let me follow the window guys, insulation guys and the sheetrockers and basically spray foam every nook and cranny that I could find. The 'standard' job that they do is fine - they foam all the penetrations to the exterior and to the attic, but there were lots of little crevices that I was able to fill. This has been extremely time consuming as it requires that I go back and trim the foam after it expands. If I had to pay the builder to take this extra step it probaly would not have been cost effective.

NOTES:

Spray-foam all penetrations, crevices. Needed as a separate step if we foam the walls?
clipped on: 11.13.2008 at 05:03 am    last updated on: 11.13.2008 at 05:04 am

RE: best energy saving building techniques (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: worthy on 10.20.2008 at 05:19 pm in Building a Home Forum

Air-tightness is tested with a blower door.

Insulation is testing with an IR or thermal imaging camera.

Here's one in California. (This is not an endorsement, only an example showing some of the technology in use.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Blower door testing

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clipped on: 11.13.2008 at 05:00 am    last updated on: 11.13.2008 at 05:00 am

RE: Thickness of Closed Cell Foam (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lclevel on 11.04.2008 at 01:07 pm in Building a Home Forum

As you can see from the chart below, foam greater than 2 - 3" thick isnt cost effective considering the minimal heat loss and the high cost of foam.

Photobucket

NOTES:

Note the distinction between heat loss reduction and surface temperature.
clipped on: 11.13.2008 at 04:43 am    last updated on: 11.13.2008 at 04:45 am

RE: Which Central Vacuum System with 'Hide a Hose' (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: sis3 on 01.15.2008 at 10:50 pm in Building a Home Forum

Mine (I use that term loosely because everyone now wants to use my vac - where were they all before when I was lugging a heavy vacuum cleaner up the stairs??) is the Imperium from Central Vacuum Stores. It is even better than expected!

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clipped on: 11.06.2008 at 01:37 am    last updated on: 11.06.2008 at 01:38 am

RE: Which Central Vacuum System with 'Hide a Hose' (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: reneeambrose on 02.20.2008 at 04:05 pm in Building a Home Forum

The Beam would not be a good choice with the Hide-a-Hose because you really need the power behind a true cyclonic unit to suck up the hose. The Vacuflo is a good choice, but you can't buy those online, you will have to buy one from a dealer. They have a dealer locator on their website. Just Google Vacuflo. VacuMaid is also a high quality cyclonic unit, and the Imperium is actually made by VacuMaid. This site sells the Imperium central vac. They also sell everything you need to install a Hide-a-Hose, plus they are pretty knowledgeable and offer free tech support.

Here is a link that might be useful: Central Vacuum Storesw

NOTES:

Vacuflo, VacuMaid or Imperium
clipped on: 11.06.2008 at 01:35 am    last updated on: 11.06.2008 at 01:36 am

RE: Best recessed kitchen lighting - suggestions please. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: lightguy on 07.16.2008 at 01:56 pm in Lighting Forum

Hi there.
My personal favorite is low voltage halogen for recessed lights. They're small, extremely bright, last a very long time and are more efficient than normal incandescent bulbs.
In my opinion, they're more efficient than fluorescent- when taking real world use into account (dimming and true life span). But on paper, fluorescent beat them out.

They also don't have poisons in them like fluorescent and are dimmable.

You can also look for trimless recessed lights. They are great. More pricey though. But there is no trim visible and the bulb is more hidden. There is literally just a small hole in your ceiling.

For the best energy efficiency and life though, go with an LED bulb. The Cree LR6 is a 6" diameter and the LR4 is a 5" diameter. Those options are great since they're dimmable, put out a wonderful color of light and will literally last you over 25 years. But they are bigger, so more visible, than the halogen.

I have gone through more than 500 of these in the last few months and to a person, everyone has been thrilled.

The nice thing about the halogen is that very soon there will be replacement bulbs for those 3.5" cans which are LED. So basically, your first round of bulbs will be halogen, then you can go LED. Since the technology is moving so fast.

Hope this helps.

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 01:44 am    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 01:44 am

RE: Where to buy Electrolux appliances (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: susanpn on 09.06.2008 at 09:49 pm in Appliances Forum

Electrolux appliances (all the new stuff with Kelly Ripa ads!) is the same price anywhere you shop. I will check into the Sears thing but have heard their service dept is lousy.....Most likely I am going to get my Electrolux cooktop, oven and dw at Best Buy because I've had great service buying other appliances from them in the past and also because if you get points with a Rewards Zone card (this is free) and the points are good for money off future purchases. Your points add up....we bought a washer dryer and with points from that basically got a free DVD recorder. It adds up and always helpful in my experience there.

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 12:15 am    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 12:16 am

Where to buy Electrolux appliances

posted by: jache723 on 08.25.2008 at 02:38 pm in Appliances Forum

I was hoping to use my Home Depot card, but I dont think they carry electrolux since they are not shown online.

Sears, Lowes, and BestBuy all carry them near me however they dont accept coupons on the Electrolux brand appliances (I dont know why) So the appliances never qualify for the sears sales, or 10% off coupons BestBuy and Lowes send out.

Is there a cheaper place to get these?

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clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 12:12 am    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 12:12 am