I think one reason it did go reasonbly fast, though, is that I had approximately 90% of the materials on hand. I had the chicken wire left over from another project, ditto the fabric and tassel trim, primer, drywall mud, sandpaper, brushes, glaze etc. All I had to buy was the cabinet and wall paint, the nailhead trim, and a few supplies. That helps, as the shopping and "pulling together" of the look is what takes the most time. Actually painting a small room like that doesn't take much time at all.

I will say, though, that the most difficult part of the whole project was working that @$%&! chicken wire. That stuff is a royal pain in the carcass. It came in a big ol' roll, and every time I tried to unroll it to measure it to fit, it wanted to roll back up. The edges are *sharp*, and I poked myself once and bled all over the floor. Seriously. I've not ever seen that much blood! (Now I can truly say my blood, sweat, and tears went into the facelift! LOL!)

Getting it to fit inside the cabinet door was a royal pain. I could get it in the old recess where the wood panel used to be, but it kept wanting to curl up. I had to re-cut the panels like 4 times to get just the right size, and then I had to figure out a way to keep the chicken wire stationary. I finally used some small window glazing supplies to tack in 2 sides, and then used some small dowel rods to tuck inside to keep the wire in place.

The chicken wire was also a very ugly silver color, so I had to spray paint the panels black to give it the look I wanted.

I tell ya, after that fiasco, I don't know if I'll ever want to use chicken wire again!

Zipdee, I've tried in vain to get the Basset's to do *anything* around the house, other than lay around and be cute. I find their stubby little paws are just useless when it comes to projects......

As far as painting the cabinets, here's what I did:

I sanded everything and wiped it down. Then I painted two coats of the base color Benjamin Moore Saybrook Sage (a lovely shade of "Crest Toothpaste" green).

When that dried, I used a glaze from Sherwin Williams in a color called VanDyke Brown, and just brushed it on lightly.

The color was a bit "cooler" than I wanted, so when that dried I glazed it again with a Minwax gel stain in Plantation Walnut. That warmed it up some, as well as giving it a nice even sheen.

Love2weed, I bought the ready-made feet at a builder supply place. They're just glued on. Had to trim them down a bit to get them to fit under the vanity, so the glue's on top.

Eagertopaint, I did make the shower curtain, but don't tell anyone, as I really can't sew, and the back of it is really unprofessional looking! All raw seams and threads, etc. I really need to make some sort of a lining for it!

The wall color was supposed to be a deep pumpkin orange color, but instead it's just an orange-y red. It works, and I'm happy with it, but I think I may have like a little more orange and a little less red. The color is Benjamin Moore "Spiced Pumpkin".

Antique jewelry, I have several pieces of it...somewhere. They're in a safe place while we cut holes in the wall where they don't belong, just to see what's behind the drywall.

Now I collect paint. By the pints and gallons. I have more pint size paint samples than Home Depot has 2x4's. Oddly enough, some of the walls in my home look like a patchwork quilt of 4x4 paint samples...quincidence???

I also collect paint brushes. Nothing excites me more than the feel of a professional quality chisel trimmed nylon brush in the palm of my hand. I don't own one brush, I own many brushes, because being the impulsive paint sampler that I am, I can't wait to clean one and let it dry before I dip it in another can of paint to attempt to find the perfect color to go with that danged taupe couch I got on sale at the leather shop 3 years ago.

Thank God wide belts are back in style. I prefer a six loop belt with room for both a caulking gun and a hammer, but in a pinch, you can pair a prada skirt with a 9 loop leather number and pull it off if your pumps aren't too high.

My coffee cups all rest on granite samples. And oddly enough, each coffee cup comes from a home show I attended somewhere, sometime, in search of the perfect scheme to go with a taupe leather couch....

Tools are starting to enter my dreams lately. A neumatic nail gun that won't break a french manicure would be an invention of the gods. Probably more successful than post-it-notes...

I purchased a briefcase of drill bits last week. Does anyone need 30 different phillips heads? I think they're packaging them in larger packages just to save me time to collect....

Sinks...I have five sinks sitting in the living room. We used to host wine tastings, now I suppose we could host hand washing parties. The faucets are piled next to them...

I'd like to go back to collecting antique jewelry....but I saw the COOLEST FAUCET....oh never mind!

Most new cabinetry is traditional in design, but sometimes in an effort to be trendy, designers try placing knobs in non-traditional places. When deciding on their placement there are some caveats that should be remembered:

Cabinet Doors:
Whenever possible, avoid placing knobs on a center panel. A veneered panel will not be as strong as the wood frame surrounding it.

Drawer Fronts:
Generally a single knob or pull is used on drawers under eighteen inches wide, while drawers over eighteen inches call for either two knobs or two pulls. Drawers over 24" wide should have two knobs/pulls to prevent the drawer from twisting when pulled. For visual continuity, pulls or knobs should be installed on false front drawer fronts as well.

To position a drawer handle successfully, first determine it's visual center of mass (the absolute center od the pull). A knob's center of mass will be the mounting screw.

As a general rule, If a drawer is wide enough to need two knobs/pulls, each should be centered about 1/6th of the drawer length from the edge of the drawer and positioned slightly above center.

Installtion diagram for drawer handle Placement of Multiple Drawer Pulls:
Length ÷ 6 = center of knob/pull
Using this formula, if the the drawer is 24 inches wide, the middle of the pull should be 4 inches from the outside edge of the drawer front.

In some cases it is impossible to place a handle at the optimum height because of such things as cross banding or overcrowding on a narrow upper drawer. In these instances the eye is generally forgiving.

Bail handles derive more of their visual mass from the rosettes than do plate handles where the bail is recessed on a field of brass. This means a rosette handle will be placed a little lower than a plate handle whose mass is mostly a function of the backplate. The goal in all cases is to mount the handle so that the center of mass is slightly above the centerline of the drawer front. The deeper the drawer front the higher the handle should be placed above the centerline.

Don't forget that the thickness of the door or drawer must be considered when ordering screws to make certain that the proper length screw is purchased.

In replacing a pull, the old one should be used to measure the new one. Remember to measure from the center to center of each screw (not the length of the pull) to determine the size pull needed. If the old holes will be patched, or if a backplate will be used, size will be flexible; but don't forget that the holes go all the way through, so that the plate it won't cover them on the inside. If this matters, a second plate may be needed.

It's always best to leave hardware installation to professionals who will accept responsibility for their alignment. These experts use special jigs to assure a proper match across the cabinets, which is extremely important visually.

A cabinet can only be drilled once and it must be perfect the first time; if a hole is drilled wrong, the only way to repair it is to cover the hole with a backplate and start over. But that means that every other cabinet in the kitchen will require a matching backplate. And don't forget that once drilled, the cabinet cannot be returned.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Rules and Guidelines

Exactly the situation you describe is illustrated on the right in figure 210.52, stating that no receptacle is required there.

We followed the directions on their website regarding how much stone to send - they need extra in case they have a problem with an area on the stone. We used two sink cut-outs and the cut outs from the 3 wide switches which were just the size needed for a one wide outlet cover.

We used some plastic transparent film cut to the size of each wall plate so we could slide it around on the scraps and see the stone underneath. We found the spots on the scraps that provided a good match to the backsplash around the wall cover and taped down the transparent film to mark the spot.


Then we packaged the stone and shipped it to Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. My careful DH used about 20 pounds of cardboard to pack the stone because he didn't want it to get damaged in transit! :^o

In a few weeks, this came back:

Here is the back of a wall cover so you can see how much they shape the stone:

We had the blanks marked with letters for each outlet position and they put the letter on the back of each wall plate so we didn't have to figure out which went where. They had one case where they couldn't use the spot on the stone that we had marked but they chose a good alternate spot with a great match. The silvery rectangles on the back are magnets so that we don't have to have screws. We checked and all our outlets and switches attracted the magnets. They have magnets that you can glue in place on the outlet/switch if yours aren't magnetic.

The colored cover on the Lutron outlets extends over the part of the outlet that the magnet would stick to so it is in the way:

No problem, the excess plastic breaks off easily enough - here you can see the plastic with one end taken care of and the other still there:

Close-up of a finished cover in place:

Here is a link that might be useful: Cripes Distributing

Columbia Gorge Stone does custom covers
http://www.stonewallplates.com/

Take a picture of your tile, print it on regular paper, put it in a clear plastic outlet cover that is made for wallpaper.

I think that I might have to go darker but I started with Antique Walnut from General Finishes. Celticmoon was so sweet in emailing me the directions.

I have one problem. I really did not want much wood grain to show and it is really showing. I think it almost looks like the oak cabinets from the '80s. UGH!!!!! I really like how the "new" cabinets look that they are putting in brand new homes. You do not see much wood grain. What is a girl to do????? I really wanted stained cabinets not painted.

Anyway, here is a picture.

Here is a link that might be useful: SieMatic

And I say every single person, because a subcontractor may be busy and bring in someone else to do the work or may not pay one of his workers for work they did in your house and the lien would be against you.

This just saved my brother 1000's as someone tried to put a lien on his house not remembering they had signed the waiver 7 months ago.

For the "white stuff" you are going to use for your poultice powder base ... get some diatomaceous earth ("DE"). You can get this really CHEAP at a pool supply store or free if you know someone with a pool that uses it. It is used in some pool filtering equipment. I went to the pool supply store and they gave me some since all I wanted was a small amount.

Good info on stain removal:

From www.stone-panels.com/details/stains.doc

Iron (rust) - Poultice with Oxalic Acid + Powder + Water. May also try a product called Iron-Out (available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re-polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) - Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.

HTH
MaryT

A few years ago, there were some Carrara "marblers" who frequently posted their experiences. All of them used 511 sealer (not the impregnator). they don't post anymore, but they had a lot of info.

Two things:

1. Now that you have a stain...you can try making a poultice to remove it! I think that would be a worthwhile experiment!

2. Reseal your sample (the area that's not stained if you're going to try the poultice!). I have 2 coats. I know the former posters always recommended at least 2 coats. you do want to avoid putting too much sealer on the stone. Water should bead up right away.

Keep us posted!

*******************************

I saved this formula from former posters...I don't know who, so I can't give credit...

Here's a poultice formula for coffee:

Make a solution of 20-30% peroxide (available at beauty supple places...wear gloves) and a few drops of ammonia. Then mix in some sort of WHITE "material;" e.g., paper towel, napkin, tissue. Make only enough to cover the stain. It should be paste-like (consistency of peanut butter).

Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed.

Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.

For my wiring I went with cable jack to the kitchen (2 actually since I couldn't decide where in the kitchen to have the TV) but I am not buying a TV yet as the CableCARD is not very common on small TVs at this point. I also wired HDMI from the theater room to the kitchen so when cooking I don't miss any of the movie... so many times I would leave to check on the food in the oven and have to pause the movie and have the whole family wait - no more! :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Marblex

Fabrication/Pre-Install
-  Post pictures for the TKO’ed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

Installation
-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKO’ed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!

Here is a link that might be useful: FKB Category Checklist

Here's one I have saved as inspiration for the day I get one:

Restaurant supply stores are WONDERFUL places that are usually open to the public. You can save a fortune and get top quality equiment that is often not available at retailers or called something more grand and sold at multiples.

Our hood is over an island rangetop and a joist issue caused it to be mounted farther back than we expected. Our hood is about 6" too far back and it misses a lot of smoke when stir frying on a front burner. We are in the process of getting a custom duct cover made to better align it with the burners. At least the fix for a wall mounted hood should be a bit easier.

Is your duct running up or back from the hood?

Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Primer
Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Paint
Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.