Clippings by igloochic

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RE: 'ballardized' or just a piece without a father ? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: rjinga on 03.05.2010 at 11:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Forboystoo, thanks for your comments, I am very pleased with how it turned out and got many compliments from fellow dealer at the mall.. and I hope to sell it quickly.

I'll summarize what I did to it.

I had pretty much raw wood, I did NOT prime it, I used a flat black paint, several good coats, very light sanding in between coats, but only in areas where it needed it, not the whole thing. I then used a very fine sand paper and by hand using small pieces of the sand paper, I rubbed off random edges and knobs to expose the wood. Then (after trial and error ;) I rubbed in brown shoe polish with a soft rag, where the wood was exposed, carefully applying it to just the wood area, and NOT on the paint, although I'm sure it may have occasionally gotten on the painted areas too.

I then finished it with Tung oil, rubbed on by hand with a lint free rag. I followed the instructions on the can and applied this stuff like you were waxing a car, circular motions etc. I did 2 coats of this, letting it dry overnight between coats.

That's it.


clipped on: 03.06.2010 at 05:14 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2010 at 05:14 pm

RE: Trunk room--what happened, what to do? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 01.13.2010 at 11:33 am in Old House Forum

I would fill a garden sprayer with a plaster bonding agent (like Link or Plasterweld) and after the floor was protected, with a sponge and bucket nearby to control drips, would spray the edges of the old plaster, and cracks, and for the heck of it, the new drywall patches. The bonding agent will seal the old plaster so it's not dusty/porous and will adhere the patching compound much better. I would apply a block coat of durabond to fill the seams, and after it's dry, use large sheets or mesh tape to cover the patches and overlay the cracks. If you could find 6" fine fiberglass mesh that would be okay, but the heavy blue fiberglass mesh would be a lot stronger. Then I would skim the whole thing with durabond once more to embed the mesh. After knocking down high spots, I would finish up floating it smooth with easysand. Once all the water had left (no longer felt cold and clammy) I would prime the whole room with oil primer (after taking the normal preparatory steps on the intact plaster areas). Then the work could be further skimmed if needed, or painted straight away.


clipped on: 01.30.2010 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2010 at 04:23 pm

RE: It's DONE and I *love* it! Bathroom re-do pics! (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: reno_fan on 11.16.2008 at 10:17 am in Home Decorating Forum

LOL! You guys are so funny. I honestly didn't feel like this went fast at all! I kept feeling like I was getting behind. I broke a door, I had to wait on DH to wire the light sconce, etc.

I think one reason it did go reasonbly fast, though, is that I had approximately 90% of the materials on hand. I had the chicken wire left over from another project, ditto the fabric and tassel trim, primer, drywall mud, sandpaper, brushes, glaze etc. All I had to buy was the cabinet and wall paint, the nailhead trim, and a few supplies. That helps, as the shopping and "pulling together" of the look is what takes the most time. Actually painting a small room like that doesn't take much time at all.

I will say, though, that the most difficult part of the whole project was working that @$%&! chicken wire. That stuff is a royal pain in the carcass. It came in a big ol' roll, and every time I tried to unroll it to measure it to fit, it wanted to roll back up. The edges are *sharp*, and I poked myself once and bled all over the floor. Seriously. I've not ever seen that much blood! (Now I can truly say my blood, sweat, and tears went into the facelift! LOL!)

Getting it to fit inside the cabinet door was a royal pain. I could get it in the old recess where the wood panel used to be, but it kept wanting to curl up. I had to re-cut the panels like 4 times to get just the right size, and then I had to figure out a way to keep the chicken wire stationary. I finally used some small window glazing supplies to tack in 2 sides, and then used some small dowel rods to tuck inside to keep the wire in place.

The chicken wire was also a very ugly silver color, so I had to spray paint the panels black to give it the look I wanted.

I tell ya, after that fiasco, I don't know if I'll ever want to use chicken wire again!

Zipdee, I've tried in vain to get the Basset's to do *anything* around the house, other than lay around and be cute. I find their stubby little paws are just useless when it comes to projects......

As far as painting the cabinets, here's what I did:

I sanded everything and wiped it down. Then I painted two coats of the base color Benjamin Moore Saybrook Sage (a lovely shade of "Crest Toothpaste" green).

When that dried, I used a glaze from Sherwin Williams in a color called VanDyke Brown, and just brushed it on lightly.

The color was a bit "cooler" than I wanted, so when that dried I glazed it again with a Minwax gel stain in Plantation Walnut. That warmed it up some, as well as giving it a nice even sheen.

Love2weed, I bought the ready-made feet at a builder supply place. They're just glued on. Had to trim them down a bit to get them to fit under the vanity, so the glue's on top.

Eagertopaint, I did make the shower curtain, but don't tell anyone, as I really can't sew, and the back of it is really unprofessional looking! All raw seams and threads, etc. I really need to make some sort of a lining for it!

The wall color was supposed to be a deep pumpkin orange color, but instead it's just an orange-y red. It works, and I'm happy with it, but I think I may have like a little more orange and a little less red. The color is Benjamin Moore "Spiced Pumpkin".


clipped on: 11.16.2008 at 02:52 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2008 at 02:52 pm

Do you remember when....

posted by: igloochic on 03.17.2007 at 02:13 am in Kitchens Forum

I remember the days when I used to collect glass. I started with antique canning jars, had dozens of them...then I moved to depression glass. Pink and Green mostly, but the occasional pressed piece as well. Then it was venetian glass, beautiful stuff, delicate and each piece individually blown....sigh

Antique jewelry, I have several pieces of it...somewhere. They're in a safe place while we cut holes in the wall where they don't belong, just to see what's behind the drywall.

Now I collect paint. By the pints and gallons. I have more pint size paint samples than Home Depot has 2x4's. Oddly enough, some of the walls in my home look like a patchwork quilt of 4x4 paint samples...quincidence???

I also collect paint brushes. Nothing excites me more than the feel of a professional quality chisel trimmed nylon brush in the palm of my hand. I don't own one brush, I own many brushes, because being the impulsive paint sampler that I am, I can't wait to clean one and let it dry before I dip it in another can of paint to attempt to find the perfect color to go with that danged taupe couch I got on sale at the leather shop 3 years ago.

Thank God wide belts are back in style. I prefer a six loop belt with room for both a caulking gun and a hammer, but in a pinch, you can pair a prada skirt with a 9 loop leather number and pull it off if your pumps aren't too high.

My coffee cups all rest on granite samples. And oddly enough, each coffee cup comes from a home show I attended somewhere, sometime, in search of the perfect scheme to go with a taupe leather couch....

Tools are starting to enter my dreams lately. A neumatic nail gun that won't break a french manicure would be an invention of the gods. Probably more successful than post-it-notes...

I purchased a briefcase of drill bits last week. Does anyone need 30 different phillips heads? I think they're packaging them in larger packages just to save me time to collect....

Sinks...I have five sinks sitting in the living room. We used to host wine tastings, now I suppose we could host hand washing parties. The faucets are piled next to them...

I'd like to go back to collecting antique jewelry....but I saw the COOLEST FAUCET....oh never mind!


clipped on: 09.03.2008 at 02:15 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2008 at 02:15 pm

RE: More questions on knobs and pulls (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: laurie_2008 on 05.12.2008 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's some info I copied & pasted below. I'm also attaching a link that may be helpful, as well.
There are no set rules for placement of knobs or pulls. They may be thought of as artistic accents as well as functional pieces. Still, their placement can be crucial to the overall integration of the cabinetry plan. When placed with care a knob should blend into its context. Poorly placed knobs disrupt the aesthetic balance of an otherwise well-proportioned kitchen.

Most new cabinetry is traditional in design, but sometimes in an effort to be trendy, designers try placing knobs in non-traditional places. When deciding on their placement there are some caveats that should be remembered:

Cabinet Doors:
Whenever possible, avoid placing knobs on a center panel. A veneered panel will not be as strong as the wood frame surrounding it.

Drawer Fronts:
Generally a single knob or pull is used on drawers under eighteen inches wide, while drawers over eighteen inches call for either two knobs or two pulls. Drawers over 24" wide should have two knobs/pulls to prevent the drawer from twisting when pulled. For visual continuity, pulls or knobs should be installed on false front drawer fronts as well.

To position a drawer handle successfully, first determine it's visual center of mass (the absolute center od the pull). A knob's center of mass will be the mounting screw.

As a general rule, If a drawer is wide enough to need two knobs/pulls, each should be centered about 1/6th of the drawer length from the edge of the drawer and positioned slightly above center.

Installtion diagram for drawer handle Placement of Multiple Drawer Pulls:
Length 6 = center of knob/pull
Using this formula, if the the drawer is 24 inches wide, the middle of the pull should be 4 inches from the outside edge of the drawer front.

In some cases it is impossible to place a handle at the optimum height because of such things as cross banding or overcrowding on a narrow upper drawer. In these instances the eye is generally forgiving.

Bail handles derive more of their visual mass from the rosettes than do plate handles where the bail is recessed on a field of brass. This means a rosette handle will be placed a little lower than a plate handle whose mass is mostly a function of the backplate. The goal in all cases is to mount the handle so that the center of mass is slightly above the centerline of the drawer front. The deeper the drawer front the higher the handle should be placed above the centerline.

Don't forget that the thickness of the door or drawer must be considered when ordering screws to make certain that the proper length screw is purchased.

In replacing a pull, the old one should be used to measure the new one. Remember to measure from the center to center of each screw (not the length of the pull) to determine the size pull needed. If the old holes will be patched, or if a backplate will be used, size will be flexible; but don't forget that the holes go all the way through, so that the plate it won't cover them on the inside. If this matters, a second plate may be needed.

It's always best to leave hardware installation to professionals who will accept responsibility for their alignment. These experts use special jigs to assure a proper match across the cabinets, which is extremely important visually.

A cabinet can only be drilled once and it must be perfect the first time; if a hole is drilled wrong, the only way to repair it is to cover the hole with a backplate and start over. But that means that every other cabinet in the kitchen will require a matching backplate. And don't forget that once drilled, the cabinet cannot be returned.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Rules and Guidelines


clipped on: 05.12.2008 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2008 at 01:35 pm

No Outlet Requried... (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: solarpowered on 05.09.2008 at 08:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Igloochic, NEC section 210.52(C)(1)(Exception) specifically exempts that area from the requirement of having receptacles: "Exception: Receptacle outlets shall not be required on a wall directly behind a rangetop or sink."

Exactly the situation you describe is illustrated on the right in figure 210.52, stating that no receptacle is required there.


clipped on: 05.09.2008 at 08:59 pm    last updated on: 05.09.2008 at 08:59 pm

RE: Cloud Swift...your outlet covers? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cloud_swift on 04.24.2008 at 08:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

rmkitchen has the right link. Columbia Gorge Stoneworks,, made our outlet and switch covers. They were a pleasure to work with. They aren't cheap but it was worth it to us to complete the look especially given how many switches and outlets we have.

We followed the directions on their website regarding how much stone to send - they need extra in case they have a problem with an area on the stone. We used two sink cut-outs and the cut outs from the 3 wide switches which were just the size needed for a one wide outlet cover.

We used some plastic transparent film cut to the size of each wall plate so we could slide it around on the scraps and see the stone underneath. We found the spots on the scraps that provided a good match to the backsplash around the wall cover and taped down the transparent film to mark the spot.
Then we packaged the stone and shipped it to Columbia Gorge Stoneworks. My careful DH used about 20 pounds of cardboard to pack the stone because he didn't want it to get damaged in transit! :^o

In a few weeks, this came back:
Here is the back of a wall cover so you can see how much they shape the stone:
We had the blanks marked with letters for each outlet position and they put the letter on the back of each wall plate so we didn't have to figure out which went where. They had one case where they couldn't use the spot on the stone that we had marked but they chose a good alternate spot with a great match. The silvery rectangles on the back are magnets so that we don't have to have screws. We checked and all our outlets and switches attracted the magnets. They have magnets that you can glue in place on the outlet/switch if yours aren't magnetic.

The colored cover on the Lutron outlets extends over the part of the outlet that the magnet would stick to so it is in the way:

No problem, the excess plastic breaks off easily enough - here you can see the plastic with one end taken care of and the other still there:

Close-up of a finished cover in place:


clipped on: 04.25.2008 at 08:52 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2008 at 08:53 pm

RE: My DIY is finally finished (Follow-Up #53)

posted by: bamaspice on 02.23.2007 at 11:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you kitchenlady...I had to make the holes for the cup pulls a little larger so the pull would fit flush. Heres the link directly to the company and they are also on Ebay. On ebay the pulls were 25 for $10.00 but with shipping it averaged out to $1.00 a pull. They are .75 a piece on their site. They are also available at Lowe's by special order for $7.99 a piece. They are very heavy gauge. Good Luck

Here is a link that might be useful: Cripes Distributing


for rental
clipped on: 03.15.2008 at 06:20 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2008 at 06:21 pm

RE: Okay, so how about deep brown/black espresso cabinet color? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kmcg85 on 01.21.2008 at 10:46 am in Home Decorating Forum

In the January 2008 issue of House Beautiful are designer's favorite colors they always use. One designer uses BM deck enamel brown mixed half and half with BM deck enamel black. He describes it as a beautiful dark brown with some gloss to it. Decorating people call it, "tete de negre".
BM Deck Enamel Rich Brown 60
BM Deck Enamel Black C-112-80


for rental house color
clipped on: 03.12.2008 at 04:58 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2008 at 04:58 pm

RE: Making outlets melt into backsplash any ideas? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: janwad on 12.13.2007 at 06:37 pm in Kitchens Forum has a line of outlet covers called Mosaic that are designed to be painted.

Columbia Gorge Stone does custom covers

Take a picture of your tile, print it on regular paper, put it in a clear plastic outlet cover that is made for wallpaper.


clipped on: 12.13.2007 at 07:46 pm    last updated on: 12.13.2007 at 07:46 pm

Picture of gel stain on cabinet door

posted by: lauraa on 10.11.2007 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have started with my gel stain project on my pickled cabinet doors. I started on the back of a door that actually came from my boy's bathroom. I figured if it doesn't work then I will paint the cabinets in their bathroom.

I think that I might have to go darker but I started with Antique Walnut from General Finishes. Celticmoon was so sweet in emailing me the directions.

I have one problem. I really did not want much wood grain to show and it is really showing. I think it almost looks like the oak cabinets from the '80s. UGH!!!!! I really like how the "new" cabinets look that they are putting in brand new homes. You do not see much wood grain. What is a girl to do????? I really wanted stained cabinets not painted.

Anyway, here is a picture.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 11.08.2007 at 03:33 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2007 at 03:33 pm

RE: Check out this outlet cover!! PIC included (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: pfmastin on 10.30.2007 at 10:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've heard of a way to do something *like* this if anyone is interested....the idea it to take a digital photo of the tile/wallpaper, etc and either cover the wall plate with it or use a transparent one and slip the digital image under it.


wall plate covering
clipped on: 10.31.2007 at 01:45 am    last updated on: 10.31.2007 at 01:45 am

RE: Cool cabinet 'insides' ideas... (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: antss on 09.19.2007 at 08:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

These guys have been on the cutting edge for decades. Check under : Our Kitchens - Functionalties - MultiMatic & Drawers. Also browse the reg. sections for more magic corners pullouts wooden inserts ect... This seems to be the outfit many in the industry copy.

Here is a link that might be useful: SieMatic


for add ons to cabinets
clipped on: 10.17.2007 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 10.17.2007 at 01:46 pm

A word to the wise - when you are all done...

posted by: loves2cook4six on 10.10.2007 at 12:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

get lien waivers, AND HAVE THEM AUTHENTICATED BY A LAWYER, from EVERY SINGLE person who worked in your house before you make your final payment.

And I say every single person, because a subcontractor may be busy and bring in someone else to do the work or may not pay one of his workers for work they did in your house and the lien would be against you.

This just saved my brother 1000's as someone tried to put a lien on his house not remembering they had signed the waiver 7 months ago.


clipped on: 10.10.2007 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2007 at 03:46 pm

RE: Marble counters - Am I beating a dead horse???? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: osswb on 08.31.2007 at 04:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's some additional tips!

For the "white stuff" you are going to use for your poultice powder base ... get some diatomaceous earth ("DE"). You can get this really CHEAP at a pool supply store or free if you know someone with a pool that uses it. It is used in some pool filtering equipment. I went to the pool supply store and they gave me some since all I wanted was a small amount.

Good info on stain removal:


Iron (rust) - Poultice with Oxalic Acid + Powder + Water. May also try a product called Iron-Out (available at hardware stores). Both mixtures may etch polished marble, so re-polishing will be necessary.
Ink - Poultice with Mineral Spirits or Methylene Chloride +Powder.
Oil - Poultice with Ammonia+ Powder Methylene Chloride can also be used on tough oil stains.
Coffee, Tea & Food - Poultice with 20 percent Hydrogen Peroxide + Powder.
Copper - Poultice with Ammonium Chloride + Powder
Paint (water-based) - poultice with a commercial paint remover + Powder
Paint (oil) - Poultice with Mineral Spirits + Powder. Deep stains may require Methylene Chloride.



clipped on: 10.09.2007 at 01:50 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2007 at 01:50 pm

RE: Marble counters - Am I beating a dead horse???? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: momto4kids on 08.31.2007 at 11:26 am in Kitchens Forum

I still stand by my "no stains" on well-sealed marble!!

A few years ago, there were some Carrara "marblers" who frequently posted their experiences. All of them used 511 sealer (not the impregnator). they don't post anymore, but they had a lot of info.

Two things:

1. Now that you have a can try making a poultice to remove it! I think that would be a worthwhile experiment!

2. Reseal your sample (the area that's not stained if you're going to try the poultice!). I have 2 coats. I know the former posters always recommended at least 2 coats. you do want to avoid putting too much sealer on the stone. Water should bead up right away.

Keep us posted!


I saved this formula from former posters...I don't know who, so I can't give credit...

Here's a poultice formula for coffee:

Make a solution of 20-30% peroxide (available at beauty supple places...wear gloves) and a few drops of ammonia. Then mix in some sort of WHITE "material;" e.g., paper towel, napkin, tissue. Make only enough to cover the stain. It should be paste-like (consistency of peanut butter).

Wet the stained area with distilled water. Pre-wetting fills the pores of the stone with water isolating the stain and accelerating the removal by the chemical.

Apply the poultice to the stain being careful not to spill any on the non stained areas. Apply approximately 1/4-inch thick over-lapping the stain area by about one inch.

Cover the poultice with plastic (food wrap works great). Tape the plastic down to seal the edges. It also helps to poke several small holes in the plastic so that the powder will dry out. Failure to do this may result in the poultice staying wet.

Allow the poultice to dry thoroughly. This is a very important step. The drying of the poultice is what pulls the stain from the stone into the poultice material. If the poultice is not allowed to dry, the stain may not be removed.

Drying usually takes from 24 to 48 hours.

Remove the poultice from the stain. Rinse with distilled water and buff dry with a soft cloth. If the stain is not removed, apply the poultice again. It may take up to five applications for difficult stains.


clipped on: 10.09.2007 at 01:47 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2007 at 01:47 pm

RE: Kitchen TV's - Where do you put the cable box? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mysterymachine on 09.06.2007 at 03:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

A lot of the new LCD TVs are coming with digital tuners.. however these only let you get the unencrypted channels (which is pretty much just your local channels that you could get with antenna). These tuners are known as QAM tuners. If you get a TV that has a CableCARD slot then you just get a small card from the cable company that plugs into your TV and then you basically have the cable box built into your TV. You don't hear much about this from the cable company becuase they make lots of money renting the boxes but I believe it is regulation that they have to offer a CableCARD if you ask for one. Finding a small TV for the kitchen that has this capability is hard right now though.

For my wiring I went with cable jack to the kitchen (2 actually since I couldn't decide where in the kitchen to have the TV) but I am not buying a TV yet as the CableCARD is not very common on small TVs at this point. I also wired HDMI from the theater room to the kitchen so when cooking I don't miss any of the movie... so many times I would leave to check on the food in the oven and have to pause the movie and have the whole family wait - no more! :)


clipped on: 09.08.2007 at 02:26 am    last updated on: 09.08.2007 at 02:26 am

RE: Granite scrap galore!! - link (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: tonda1 on 09.05.2007 at 09:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

oops. I meant to include the link for the landscape use. I particularly like the next to last picture in the landscape section - something they are calling broken edge stacked granite - it is kind of cool looking.

Here is a link that might be useful: Marblex


for garden granite
clipped on: 09.05.2007 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 09.05.2007 at 09:59 pm

RE: Checklist For Granite Installation? (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: divastyle on 07.25.2007 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

When deciding on a fabricator:
-  See the installer's work, especially the seams;
-  Talk about what they do to make the seam really tight and smooth.

-  Post pictures for the TKOed of your slabs!
-  Be present for the template process.
-  Be there when they place the templates on your slabs, but if you can't be there then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam;
-  Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
-  Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
-  Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in. Saves big headaches.
-  Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
-  Check how close they should come to a stove

-  if you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process. Possibly considered brown kraft paper to protect your floors.
-  Make sure that your appliances are protected during the installation process.
-  Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
-  Somewhere you will have a seam by you sink because they cannot carry the small pieces after cutting out for you sink without breaking. Ask them to show you where it will be and if you are ok with it. Should be covered in the appropriately colored caulk.
-  Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
-  Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
-  Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
-  Make sure that there are no scratches, pits or cracks
-  Make sure that the granite has been sealed
-  Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.
-  Make sure that the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
-  Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
-  Keep an eye for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
-  Make sure that all your edges are identical
-  Make sure that the laminate edge (if you have it) is smooth.
-  Check for chips. These can be filled.
-  Make sure the seams are butted tight.
-  If a cut-out or a seam is worked on OVER a drawer, be sure to remove the drawer and tape the glide. There have been instances where the granite dust destroyed the drawer glide.

-  Make sure that the top drawers open and close
-  Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
-  Make sure that you can open your dishwasher
-  Make sure that you have clearance to all of your appliances.
-  Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances.
-  Make sure all you cabinets are still in the right place.

-  Watch when they apply the sealer, so that you know how to do it later.

Post Installation
-  Post pictures for the TKOed
-  Enjoy your kitchen!


clipped on: 09.02.2007 at 01:56 am    last updated on: 09.02.2007 at 01:57 am

RE: Another Finished White Kitchen...But I have morgue drawers (Follow-Up #60)

posted by: starpooh on 08.19.2007 at 11:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi kitchenkelly ~
May I please archive your kitchen in the Finished Kitchens Blog? If so could you please submit the FKB Category Checklist?
Thank you!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: FKB Category Checklist


clipped on: 08.24.2007 at 10:43 pm    last updated on: 08.24.2007 at 10:44 pm

RE: Demifloyd - Your Mousehole (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: homemaker on 07.18.2007 at 09:41 pm in Home Decorating Forum

That's so cute - is there a light in there?

Here's one I have saved as inspiration for the day I get one:


clipped on: 07.19.2007 at 01:52 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2007 at 01:53 pm

RE: show me your bells and whistles (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: imrainey on 06.21.2007 at 04:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

I got mine at a wholesale grocer called Smart & Final in Los Angeles. Don't kwow where else they may have stores but the pans are standard equipment and would be at any restaurant supply.

Restaurant supply stores are WONDERFUL places that are usually open to the public. You can save a fortune and get top quality equiment that is often not available at retailers or called something more grand and sold at multiples.


clipped on: 06.21.2007 at 06:07 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2007 at 06:07 pm

RE: Stove and hood install questions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: cloud_swift on 03.09.2007 at 10:27 am in Appliances Forum

As someone who currently has a hood too far back, I can tell you that you loose too much efficency when your hood is mounted 5 or 6" behind where it should be.

Our hood is over an island rangetop and a joist issue caused it to be mounted farther back than we expected. Our hood is about 6" too far back and it misses a lot of smoke when stir frying on a front burner. We are in the process of getting a custom duct cover made to better align it with the burners. At least the fix for a wall mounted hood should be a bit easier.

Is your duct running up or back from the hood?


clipped on: 06.16.2007 at 03:33 am    last updated on: 06.16.2007 at 03:33 am

RE: Perfect paint color for staircase banister details (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: igloochic on 04.25.2007 at 07:33 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I only use high quality nylon (Purdy) brushes. I prefer them for wood finishes. They cost more but they last forever! I did have the primer tinted, and tinted it's kind of light purple color LOL so it looks funny until you start putting more paint on. They hate tinting it, but make them do it anyhoo!

Don't let anyone talk you into anything different (they always try to with me and it's never worked out). This is exactly what I use:

Sherwin Williams PrepRite ProBlock Interior Exterior Seals and Bonds, Latex primer (it's the most expensive...but if you don't like sanding or using chemicals to prep, this is the stuff for you!). I've never had to sand or strip first using this on the worst shiny stuff.

Sherwin Williams Exterior All Surface Glass Enamel
Code IFC411X
Woodsy Brown 100% mix formula 2924 (color code)
They use Acrylic Latex HIGH GLOSS Ultradeep base 6403-25932
Code A41T00204

Do not take a less glossy finish. This finish dries HARD and rich :) (There's a man joke in there somewhere but I'll avoid making it)

I use one coat primer and let it dry a day at least, then two coats (one day between at least) of paint with a good Purdy brush (which is important). With just one coat the grain still effects the paint, but with the two on top of the primer you get that nice smooth look :)

I'm a paint freak, so forgive me for saying this if you know. Don't use rollers for wood. I like a 1 1/2 inch and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush at the most. The smaller works well on the small areas so you don't drip or oversmear the sides of the project.


clipped on: 06.10.2007 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2007 at 04:39 pm

RE: 124' + curtain rods ?? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: boopadaboo on 05.22.2007 at 02:12 pm in Home Decorating Forum


clipped on: 05.22.2007 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2007 at 04:46 pm