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Check out this new countertop material....

posted by: kompy on 10.30.2014 at 01:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

.....by Cosentino. Called Dekton.
All of us KD's have heard this...."Can I put a hot pot on it?"
Here's a new material you can take a blow torch to!!!
It's a mix of quartz, glass and ceramics and is the toughest top I've seen. Click on the link below and watch the stress test video.

There are limited colors and not much movement like some stone. It has the heft and weight of quartz, but also has a definite man-made feel to it. It's not cold to the touch. I can't quite explain it. This would be perfect for modern kitchens. They also have some white marble looks but did not see samples of those. Their matte black was cool. Front edge was polished....deck was matte.

Here's a web excerpt:
Dekton employs exclusive Sinterized Particle Technology, a high tech process which represents an accelerated version of the metamorphic change that natural stone undergoes when subjected to high temperatures and pressure over thousands of years.

CLICK ON THE VIDEO TO WATCH WHAT THEY DO IT.
Here in the showroom the rep took a screwdriver to it and a fireplace lighter. She claims that a Sharpie marker wipes off easily with a Mr Clean Eraser.

Here is a link that might be useful: Click on this video for Stress Testing on Dekton

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clipped on: 10.31.2014 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 10.31.2014 at 07:59 am

New Kohler Levity glass shower doors...

posted by: blondelle on 08.03.2013 at 08:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

Has anyone installed these yet? It's a higher end look for about $400 in the clear 1/4" glass. They use a new sliding system without a track to clean. It looks like a $2,000+ door I saw in one of the designer showrooms.

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high end glass bath doors for ~$400
clipped on: 09.19.2014 at 10:14 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2014 at 10:14 pm

My no-backsplash backsplash

posted by: mtnrdredux on 02.16.2012 at 05:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen was "done" about 10 months ago. Among the nuisances/unfinished items in my kitchen is my backsplash.

I purposely chose to have no backsplash at all (except the back of a stone flp for my range). A few reasons. One, i wanted a vintage kitchen and I feel b/s are a little modern. Two, there is almost no place to put b/s. All my uppers go to the counter. All my other counter space is underneath window expanses, with maybe an inch between the counter and sill, and not much space left to right either.

However .... i have come to realize that you probably need something. Right now, behind my sink, is a wood counter meeting a painted sheetrock wall. This has become a maintenance issue.

Our crack GC says "we can try bondo". Don't you love that? Gazillions of dollars to these guys and they will "try" Bondo.

So, forget those phony loser "experts" I've hired. What do you guys, the real experts say? Can I have plain sheetrock behind my faucets? If not, what can I do that is as close to invisible as possible?

Thanks in advance.

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read whole thread for more pix/solutions
clipped on: 02.17.2012 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 02.17.2012 at 06:37 pm

RE: Induction cooktops - Gaggenau vs. Bosch (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: foodie3 on 09.22.2008 at 12:40 pm in Appliances Forum

the main difference is the power. boschs' large burner goes to 2500 watts, with a maxxboost to 3600 watts. the gaggenau center goes to 3600 watts with a power boost to 4400. higher wattage equals faster and hotter pans. the other is in addition to the auto shutoff timers, the gaggenau lets you program a recipe into each burner. IE, if you cook rice by bringing to a boil and then simmer for 15 minutes, you would set the burner to power level 3, press autoboil (brings the burner to maximum for 2 minutes to bring it to a boil) set the timer for 17 minutes. after the burner shuts itself off, you then press memory for that burner and save it. next time you cook rice, select that burner and press the memory key, all of those settings and the timer will automatically run for you. you get one for each burner.


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clipped on: 02.07.2012 at 12:06 am    last updated on: 02.07.2012 at 12:07 am

RE: Anyone have/tried Delta faucet with Touch2o Technology? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: epressler on 01.08.2012 at 12:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have that faucet and love it! It is especially nice when working with raw hamburger or chicken b/c I can just touch it on with my wrist and I don't have to worry about contaminating everything.

We have had it over a year and a half and just recently had to replace the batteries. (It gets kind of sporadic when you try to use it, that's how you know you need new ones)

I couldn't live without the touch faucet. I don't think I will ever go back to a regular faucet. It is just too convenient.
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clipped on: 01.09.2012 at 07:38 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2012 at 07:38 pm

RE: Pantry photos/ pics of pantries (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: dinobambino on 02.03.2010 at 02:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

heres our pantry...

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cabinet doors open at the end.  Spice and tea shelves on the right

notes and grocery lists kept


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clipped on: 12.04.2011 at 05:23 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2011 at 05:23 pm

RE: Show me your kitchen pantry?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mustangs on 03.12.2009 at 11:33 am in Organizing the Home Forum

One thing that I am going to insist on is "no wasted head space"...thanks again to Tally_Sue. jkom51 has a good mix of shelve levels and isn't wasting space in the pantry.

I visited my brother's new house and was eager to see his pantry (of all things!). In this good sized pantry, there were 5 equally spaced shelves plus the floor. There was sooooo much wasted head space. Easily there could have been 10 shelves at varied levels to accommodate all cans, all bottle, or all boxes. DB is a builder so I challenged him to get right on this project because his pantry was chaos. His wife was like deer in head lights about ways to organize the pantry.

Have fun. Oh...it ain't pretty but I added a shelf (the wire ones) in between each of the existing shelves in my pantry.

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Then I went through all of my kitchen base cabinets and added one more shelf (the white shelf) to each thus allowing me to add slim things and eliminate wasted head space.

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clipped on: 12.04.2011 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2011 at 05:18 pm

RE: Furniture Style Feet Under Cabinetry (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: circuspeanut on 12.02.2011 at 11:39 am in Kitchens Forum

I love them, but they are indeed dust catchers and I'm not sure I'd do them again.

Mine are rectangular and enclose the end of the toekick on the sides, creating a three-sided box that catches crumbs; but perhaps standalone round ones wouldn't have this problem?


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clipped on: 12.02.2011 at 11:54 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2011 at 11:54 pm

RE: How do I make an idea board? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ZoeCat17 on 11.22.2011 at 05:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

With Pinterest you can gather any picture online to one of your boards, including photos you have uploaded to a site like Picasa. You can have/name as many different boards as you want.

After joining Pinterest, you add a "pin it" button to your web browser and click it whenever there's something on a page you want to save. Then the picture you have pinned links back to the original source when you click it.

I have found it to be a great tool for inspiration pictures and those "where did I see that (fill in the blank) I need to get?" moments. It is addictive though.


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clipped on: 11.23.2011 at 09:05 am    last updated on: 11.23.2011 at 09:05 am

RE: Craft Art wood counters in main prep space--will I regret it? (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: BeastBaby on 10.27.2011 at 03:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

The results are in on the craft art waterloxed wood counter top sharpie test (that's a mouthful, huh?)... and wow. Check it out:

I honestly can't believe that worked. Crazy.


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removing sharpie from waterloxed bb w/ rubbing alcohol.
clipped on: 11.21.2011 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 11.21.2011 at 06:23 pm

RE: Costs spiraling out of control...Are RTA Cabinets the Solutio (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: jterrilynn on 11.16.2011 at 09:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, a couple things to know about Conestoga...it's not cheap. Conestoga should be in between a price of kraftmaid and Ikea. If you were looking at much higher quality cabinetry the price will be less than half of that estimate with the same high quality (if assembled correctly). The Conestoga cabinets are not hard to assemble but it is a LOT of work. When the big truck comes with your delivery, the bulk will scare and overwhelm you at first. Besides saving a bit you really need to ask yourself if you want all this extra work because if you look around enough you could get a lesser quality for two or three grand more that might work for you and that's already assembled.
Our decision to go Conestoga RTA was based on money savings without sacrificing quality, plus the fact that Conestoga had endless paint, stain, and door choices ect And that wood cabinets are slightly lighter to hang for the 50 ish DIYers . I think most the people on here that have used Conestoga have gone through different venders; I went with cabintmakeschoice and was very happy. The cabinets are made in the U.S.A and they have a few plants throughout the U.S.


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Conestoga cabinets
clipped on: 11.16.2011 at 11:42 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2011 at 11:42 pm

asdf (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: marcolo on 11.08.2011 at 02:00 am in Kitchens Forum

UGH sorry.

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Is this my kitchen style?
clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 11:20 pm

RE: Question for those with stainless steel kitchen counters (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rococogurl on 11.05.2011 at 07:51 am in Kitchens Forum

I have them in my kitchen They're 9 and look as good as the day they were installed though they definitely have patina (i.e. scratches) that come from normal use. Don't know the gauge but they are quite thick.

They are glued down to a very thick plywood substrate -- they were clamped for 2 days.

Very low maintenance. I wipe them with Caldrea countertop cleaner and a microfiber cloth.

Thing about stainless is that it can get heat tint and discolor slightly. So I put hot pots on the stovetop, sink grid or on silicone trivets.

Depending on the fabricator they can do pretty much anything sinkwise. The guy who made mine is an artist and he managed to perfectly wrap the counter around an upmounted Shaw's farm sink.

I had a wood counter for years and much prefer these. I never worry about them and they are so easy.


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good pt about the heat tint
clipped on: 11.08.2011 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 11.08.2011 at 10:56 pm

RE: 36' counters with a 34' island? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: owls4me on 10.31.2011 at 11:59 am in Kitchens Forum

I have exactly what you are planning to do b/c of rhome410's good advice 2 years ago. We are all "shortish" people, my husband is 5'6" and my 2 dd's and I are a smidge on either side of 5'. The height difference is not visually apparent and like rhome410 no one notices it unless I mention it. It is one of the best things about my kitchen remodel. When I spend a whole day in the kitchen I switch prep areas and change shoes part way through. I no longer end up with a lower backache. We have a prep sink in the island as does rhome410 and that too has been fabulous for my family.

We have 4 stools at the island. I have two thoughts for you based on my experience. My wonderful carpenter put an apron piece across the granite to connect the two legs I wanted in the design. It is 3" wide, I would suggest 2" wide if your plan calls for such an apron to provide more space. Also, we found 24" tall stools but as we searched we found many stools we loved at 25.5" tall. Actually, the 24" height is more comfortable for our short legs too.


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clipped on: 11.01.2011 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2011 at 09:41 pm

Frigidaire Induction Range: 50 amp 'Recommended'?

posted by: ironcook on 04.28.2011 at 02:40 am in Appliances Forum

Hi...

I would like to get the Frigidaire FPCS3085LF hybrid induction range.

These are the specs:
• Connected Load (kW Rating) @ 240 / 208 Volts = 14.3 / 11.7 kW
• Amps @ 240 / 208 Volts = 59.6 / 56.3 Amps
• Recommended Circuit Breaker - 50 Amps (40 Amps minimum)

We had an electrician come out, and the estimate to run a 50 amp line would be $895.

We currently have a 40 amp line. Do you think this will be adequate based on the specs?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Here is a link that might be useful: Download Frigidaire FPCS3085LF Manual (.pdf)

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clipped on: 11.01.2011 at 07:21 pm    last updated on: 11.01.2011 at 07:21 pm

RE: does anyone have brick floors? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 09.03.2008 at 04:10 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Our entire home has brick floors. We built this place 15 years ago and had the floors sealed before we moved in. They used Ring Brick Floor Sealant and they never stain. They always look warm and beautiful to us.
BUT, we also have in-floor radiant heat and the floors stay warm all through the cold season. In the warm season, they're cool, but never cold. If you'd be on a slab, I think brick floors could get uncomfortable in Winter, without in-floor heating. Brick floors don't show every little spot.
Negatives:
~ you drop a dish on them and chances are, the plate will break . . . into many pieces!
~ you'll need to get a special mop, as the ones you can buy at Target, etc. will quickly shred on even the smoothest brick floor.
~ they're harder on your feet and legs than wood or vinyl floors, but they last forever and you can add as many rugs as you want.
Those are the only three negatives I can think of after 15 years in this house. I love our brick floors.
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clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 10:51 pm

RE: For those who have finished a wood island with Waterlox... (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: artemis78 on 10.29.2011 at 01:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Just asked DH how he did ours, and (aside from venting about how he would never use the satin again ;) he used 100% satin for the last coats; first tried with a brush and had the brush stroke problem so he sanded down with very fine grit sandpaper (possibly 320, maybe just 220? remembers "a lot" of sanding) until the brush strokes all came out, and then started again with a coat of satin applied with a t-shirt---that yielded a clean matte finish. He still thinks there are a lot of imperfections (that I don't see, and he says good thing there's not a light directly over it) and would skip the satin next time and just live with the shinier finish of the regular.


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clipped on: 10.30.2011 at 07:08 pm    last updated on: 10.30.2011 at 07:08 pm

RE: Overlay or inset cabinets? which is better? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bmorepanic on 09.12.2011 at 09:03 am in Kitchens Forum

(I'm guessing the same guy is doing the cabinets either way, so its very likely both ways are framed.)

Inset cabinets lose about the same amount of space as framed cabinets with full overlay doors. Inset may or may not lose a little bit of drawer length depending on how they're made.

If you live in a high humidity area without air conditioning, you might not want inset - but your cabinet dude would know that.

Frameless cabinets can be considered to have full overlay doors. When you open a frameless cabinet door, you see the sidewall of the cabinet(about 3/4") and not a face frame(about 1.5") that is about twice as wide. It is the traditional face frames that are "using" the space. Sometimes, its aggravated by the choice of glides when they are drawers.

Everyone concentrates on drawers (and pullouts) because a cabinet with doors isn't different enough to matter - except for very small cabinets (12" or less). In a small doored cabinet, losing the additional 1.5" in width can make a difference in what you can actually put in the cabinet. For example, a 9" framed cabinet has a usable opening of about 6" wide. So you COULD store a 7" x 7" item in the cabinet, but you CAN'T fit it through the opening to the cabinet.

So stupid drawer math! You lose the distance from the edge of the cabinet to the inside edge of the drawer times 2. In a cabinet with a traditional face frame, the loss is 4.5 to 5" - doesn't matter if its full overlay or inset. An 18" wide cabinet will have about 13"-14" wide drawers.

The drawer will have a depth - maybe its sides are 2" tall AND a clearance - the height you can use before something in the drawer smacks into another drawer front or part of the cabinet. You won't lose anything additional using inset over a full overlay, face framed cabinet. Inset cabinets have a drawer front the exact height that fits in the face frame. Full overlay has a drawer front larger than the face frame, but the capacity of the drawer is still controlled by the opening in the face frame.

With a traditional frame, you can lose a fair amount of drawer height when compared to frameless. What changes is the clearance - the measurement from the inside bottom of the drawer to the bottom of the next vertical obstruction, also known as the usable height. Generally, a frameless drawer will have about 1.5" more usable height.

Another great secret is that all drawers are not as long as the cabinet is deep. Ikea, for instance, uses 21" long drawers. Your cabinet maker will use somethin'. They may use the same glides and the same drawers and just reposition them 3/4" further back to do inset or they might change the drawer length.

IF they change the drawer length, that difference is the amount you lose by doing inset over full overlay. Say the drawer usable width is 14", the usable height is 3" and the usable length is 22" for full overlay and 2" for inset. You'd lose about 2-1/2 percent of a cubic foot.

Every cabinet maker is a little different. If you want framed cabinets, ask to see of the size of the frame can be reduced to help out with the issue. If the frame is smaller, the usable size of the drawers can be larger. Also, doing wider cabinets rather than multiple small cabinets can help because less space will be used in cabinet pieces.

If you want georgian inset, go for it.


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clipped on: 09.12.2011 at 10:06 pm    last updated on: 09.12.2011 at 10:07 pm

RE: Kitchen Update - Lighting in (mostly) and Beams review (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: brickton on 07.13.2011 at 03:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

The ceilings are 9'. The smaller beams (6"w x 4"h) would be fine on an 8' ceiling, the larger ones (8" x 8") would be a lot.

For those interested in the installation details here's a progress pic or two should all the bones laid out on the ceiling.


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clipped on: 09.10.2011 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 09.10.2011 at 01:01 pm

RE: OT but please help if you can......... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: remodelfla on 08.25.2011 at 02:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi piaa,
OK... I hope this helps. Here's a pic I found of my other house. We put in framless doors but there is a tub. See how there is no track on the tub for the doors to slide in? The there are clampish hingey things (technical term) on the wall to which the doors are attached. Perhaps that is what your hubby is talking about.
From Drop Box


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clipped on: 08.25.2011 at 04:11 pm    last updated on: 08.25.2011 at 04:11 pm

RE: Acting as your own general contractor (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: abundantblessings on 08.18.2011 at 09:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I guess it depends on whether you're confident that you can research and procure the best vendors at the best price for each of aspect of the reno. I usually GC reno projects, and prefer to coordinate the project as it saves a bit and I can choose the subs, but if you're happy with the price from company A, go with it as it is simpler. If you try to take it on you will need to have and stick with a tight timeline. Either way, be sure to have them name you as an additional insured on their policies. If you go with company A, be sure you get a list of his/her subs and waivers of lien from each sub as they complete their work. Good luck!


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clipped on: 08.18.2011 at 06:36 pm    last updated on: 08.18.2011 at 06:36 pm

Cabinets. Today. Butcherblock Ordered (Good Ikea substitut found)

posted by: brickton on 08.05.2011 at 07:27 am in Kitchens Forum

It's all coming together y'all. My cabinets are coming today (and I will post pictures as soon as I have them). We'll be working on installing today and tomorrow.

But even more importantly, I found a pretty darn good source for butcherblock that fit my budget (ie really cheap). Perfectplank.com has a few varieties of wood including something called Mirvana which looks pretty close to Oak on the sample we got. It comes in 1 7/8 (almost a full 2" so it's burly) and is only $400 + $150 shipping for a 42" x 96" slab for our eating / prep peninsula. It's not quite Ikea cheap, but it is thicker than Ikea and more importantly, it's available. Yay for available.

Here's a shot from the website of the Mirvana unfinished, and it's very true to the sample we got. It darkened up nicely with just mineral oil too, which is what we plan to use to finish.

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clipped on: 08.06.2011 at 06:52 pm    last updated on: 08.06.2011 at 06:57 pm

Bluestar integrated grill worth it?

posted by: evergreendan on 04.14.2007 at 06:51 pm in Appliances Forum

I was all set on a 6-burner Bluestar, but then I got to wondering if I should get the grill instead. I know you can put a griddle on it, and I assume you can do that with any two burners too. I have a Jenn-Air electric grill, but I don't use it because the clean-up is such a big deal.

I cooked on the Bluestar at Eurostoves. (I wasn't expecting too, but when I commented about wanting big burners for sauteing mushrooms, out came a box of mushrooms and stir-fry makings!) The grill seemed like it would be hard to keep clean, even with lining some of it with aluminum foil.

Should I reconsider? Do people use it and if so it is hard to keep clean? Do you cook meat (with smelly grease) or just vegetables? I cooked fish on my Jenn-Air once and it was really hard to get the fish smell out of the grill and the house.

Confused...

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clipped on: 07.28.2011 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 07.28.2011 at 10:09 pm

RE: Bamboo Flooring vs. Hardwood (oak) flooring (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dirtymartini on 06.15.2009 at 06:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

We re installing strand bamboo in our house right now! It is already down in the bedroom. This is what we learned...hopefully (for our sake) it is correct...

regular bamboo is soft, shows dings etc. Our DD begged and begged for a "sambuca" bamboo floor (a dark dark brown, almost black) which is NOT "strand" and we caved and I do already see where we will have to be very careful on it. The strand bamboo, however has held up wonderfully (granted, we have only had it about 2 months.)

I, personally, wanted an oak that we found reasonably priced...it was not engineered, it was solid plank and handscraped and just gorgeous. My DH was adamant that the bamboo was the best choice. He could hold both samples in his hands and feel the denseness of the bamboo vs. the wood. We took all sorts of things and banged them on the samples and the strand bamboo held up the best. I believe bamboo is also better with water...and we have a swimming pool in this new house and we know kids will be leaving wet towels laying around, dripping on it, spilling drinks, etc.

I will say that because it is so hard, it does seem a little more like tile under my feet...there is no "give" whereas that is one of the nice things about wood, I think it is easier to stand on.

Good luck to your friend! Hope this helps!


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clipped on: 07.27.2011 at 08:58 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2011 at 08:58 pm

RE: end grain butcher block (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: itsallaboutthefood on 07.26.2011 at 09:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

You can get a 36x72 o4 30x96 bamboo end grain butcherblock. I found it at a lumberyard for less than $500. This of course is without installation but it is easy to install. Your contractor would do that. You can find distributors on the website.

Here is a link that might be useful: Teragren parque butcherblock


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clipped on: 07.27.2011 at 08:13 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2011 at 08:14 pm

RE: Worried about Undermount Stainless Steel sink (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 07.25.2011 at 10:22 am in Kitchens Forum

There are all kinds of "techniques" that guys use -

This is for eveyone reading this - (not just SuzieQ)

Stainless steel sinks that are installed with 2CM thick stone are usually supported from underneath by the plywood subtop layer (I use 5/8" thick ACX grade) The sink is "sandwiched" in between the the plywood and the stone - the sink rests on it's flat flange and holds itself up. I could get in the sink (using this method) and stand in the sink all day long and the sink will not fall down!!!

On 3CM - there is no plywood used as the subtop, and THIS is wjere a lot of guys "just don't get it" (to quote Dr. Evil.....) They seem to think that if they just "epoxy" or "silicone" the sink flange to the underside of the stone - eveything will be OK - Welll, I am here to tell you - No Virginia - It's NOT "OK" ......

an adhesive ALONE is NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THE WEIGHT OF THE SINK for an extended length of time - like say..... 2 to 5 years

In 3CM applications - clips that can be MECHANICALLY ATTACHED to the stone can be used, Or.. WHat I prefer (and have been using for years without failure (like around the last 15 - ever since I saw these - I started using them)
is the "Sink Setter"

The Sink Setter is a metal frame work that attaches to the cabinet and supports the sink unit from underneath. The sink does not ever fall, the silicone bead between the stone and the sink acts strictly as a waterproofing gasket (as it really only should be) and the Sink Setter supports the weight of the sink, the garbage disposal and the associated plumbing - ALL exerting downward force on the sink bowl.......

Sink Setters can and should be used on all CAST IRON and COMPOSITE sinks as well - not just limited to SS......

If your fabricator wants you to accept sinks that are merely "glued" to the underside of the stone (using epoxy or silicone - I'd find a new fabricator, or insist that he uses Sink Setters on your project..

BTW - This is NOT a shameless brazen plug for the Sink Setter - I receive no compensation or benefits from sharing this with all of you.

AND..... (not trying to be self promoting) As an active Fabrcator for the last 26 going on 27 years, I HAVE been using them (for at least) over 15 years, and have NEVER had a sink fall - LOT'S of HAPPY CUSTOMERS though...... so consider what I'm sharing here as food for thought

hth

kevin


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clipped on: 07.26.2011 at 12:31 am    last updated on: 07.26.2011 at 12:31 am

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #69)

posted by: rhome410 on 07.15.2011 at 02:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love this and seeing all the photos. Such unique and wonderful ideas and kitchens, and it's great to see them all in one spot. This is such a fun thread, Gary. With DD #2's wedding in 5 days, I haven't had time to take or find photos, but I'm going to take a moment to play.

Some of these things in our DIY kitchen are more unique than others, but here goes:

Framed in corner, creating an inset shelf, which I love, and an easier way to deal with another unique thing in my kitchen, different counter heights and materials:

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Plenty of color, 3 countertops, and 3 backsplashes:

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Hand done mosaics...This is my 'crazy' thing, although not as detailed and perfect as those wonderful outlet plates! I picked out certain tiles from sheets and replaced them with others to get the designs I wanted. I mounted them flat on thin door skins and applied them to the wall after so I wouldn't have to deal with the scootching around that would happen if they were applied on the horizontal surface. (I marked on the skins where the studs would be and left out tiles here and there so we could screw it to the wall)

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The pantry isn't anything unique, but this photo shows the trim we used throughout the house, which was milled from trees we took down on our property. This is the reason we decided on Douglas fir cabinets, too.

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We have 2 fridges...split to serve different areas. One close to the cooking and baking areas and next to a freezer. One is handy to the eating areas. We raised both off the floor to prevent the dust bunny collection underneath. We have cookbook shelves over one, thanks to Trailrunner's example. Because the fridges are smaller than the standard 36", we planned trim or small cabinets around them, so if they ever needed to be replaced, we didn't have to rip out all the cabinets to put in a 36".

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We have separate baking and breakfast/snack areas. We also had 4 ovens in less than 3 years, but that's certainly not a 'unique feature' I'd recommend! Those come in all different sizes, and the drawer underneath hasn't caught up with the changes yet.

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Not sure I have a lot of unique items in the room, except maybe my waffle irons...just in amounts...

Photobucket

and my bowls, handmade by a friend, who is glad to make bowls in exchange for bread. :-)

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NOTES:

like the note about making the space for a 36" fridge even though the all-fridge is 32", so don't have to rip up cabinets, etc.
clipped on: 07.16.2011 at 06:47 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2011 at 06:48 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: kiffgirl on 07.14.2011 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Our unique item is the Eye-Vac under the sink. Through a cut out in the toe kick we can sweep the floors to this automatic vacuum and the sensor sucks the debris inside. Fantastic in a space with hardwood floors and pets.

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.14.2011 at 06:35 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2011 at 06:35 pm

Actual Kitchen Map (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:45 am in Kitchens Forum

Like Raehelen, I created an MS Word document...well, actually two.

The first was a list of everything I had in my old kitchen plus everything that should have been stored in the kitchen but wasn't.

The second document was a "map" of my kitchen. First, I took a picture of my kitchen design and, in MS PowerPoint, labeled each cabinet & shelf/drawer. There were two pictures, one for each side of the kitchen. Then, I saved them as "jpg" images. I then inserted them into an MS Word document, each on its own page. I then created a table with one row for each shelf/drawer.

My last step was to map the items from the first document to the cabinets & shelves/drawers in the second document.

That document is now in our new kitchen and is used by everyone to remember where everything goes.


This process worked great!


Now, here's my map/list (sorry the pics are so big, but when I made them smaller they were illegible!):

Sink/Window Wall Kitchen Map (medium)

Cooktop Wall Kitchen Map (medium)

HTH!


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 08:06 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 08:06 pm

RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up with...it should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored now...kitchen, basement, dining room, etc.
  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.
  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)
    The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  4. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...
    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.
    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.
    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).
    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)
    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the kitchen...you won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags
  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels
  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels
  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels
  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware
  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords
  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot
  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 08:05 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: calimama on 07.12.2011 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, things that most people think are unique about my kitchen, probably aren't unique on this forum! But when someone sees my kitchen for the first time, these two things are always what my DH points out:

my awesome appliance lift! Makes people think I am a big time baker (I am not really!)
Mixer lift

My OCD (or make that TKO!) painted switchplates! Makes people think I am painter... or crazy! (definitely the latter!)
Photobucket


NOTES:

where did she get the painted outlets?
clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 06:53 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 06:53 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: jodi_in_so_calif on 07.12.2011 at 03:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, my backsplash was pretty unique until I posted a photo of it here at the Kitchen forum. Now there are several people with my 'unique' backsplash. I was first, so I guess that counts for something. LOL

Truth is, each and every kitchen that has Fire & Ice as its backsplash is uniquely different in look and feel. I love it.



Another thing that not too many people have is a toe-kick drawer for storage. Here's mine.

It has a few more things in it now. :-)

Jodi-


NOTES:

does the toe-kick spring out when you tap it?
looks like you pull it open via the little notch.
clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 06:26 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 06:27 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: zelmar on 07.12.2011 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

1. Maybe not unique, but not very common: we put our dw at our small sink instead of the larger one. That way we can have clean up going on at both sinks. I like using the large sink for washing big pots and pans and cookie sheets. Only a small sink is needed for scraping and rinsing dishes when necessary.

2. We closed in the peninsula between the kitchen and table so that it still allows a pass-through but looks hutch-like from the dining side. The glass on 3 sides allows light to move freely between the rooms.

Photobucket Photobucket

Picture on the right: the doors on the right open as a pass through at counter height.

3. A counter height roll out shelf in our tall baking counter. It holds our canisters of flour, sugar and most often used items such as baking soda & powder, vanilla, salt, etc. I find it really convenient to leave it pulled out during baking and then push it back in when all done. b

4. Dh made the lighting fixtures above our 2 sinks (the ones above the main sink are Stickley inspired.) The b&w photos were taken by dd when she was a junior in hs during our first family trip overseas (there are 2 others on the the panel to the right of the fridge.)

Photobucket Photobucket

Someday he'll make a removable wrought iron warming shelf above our range.

5. Our counters are schist quarried (and fabricated at the quarry) in W. Mass (Ashfield Stone). It was just a short pick up truck ride from where they were dug out/fabricated to our house. There are 2 subtle drainboards built into the stone on both sides of the main sink (not very visible in the photo above.)


NOTES:

I think the cabinets style/wood/stain that I like look like these, but will my kitchen look this dark?
I have the roof-overhang/2nd floor patio blocking a lot of the sun also...hmmm: too dark?
at the sink picture, the cabinet stain looks exactly as I like them (reddish), but the 1st and 3rd pix look browner/tanner (don't like).
clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 02:47 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 02:49 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: farmgirlinky on 07.11.2011 at 08:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think the large, 2' x 2' square utility sink accessible from both sides of the long island, with the profi-style faucet positioned so that it's also easily used from either side, is the one unusual thing in our kitchen. We really do like this arrangement.

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NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 02:28 pm

RE: Kitchen Update - Lighting in (mostly) and Beams review (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: brickton on 06.19.2011 at 09:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not a hijack at all oldhousegal. We ripped 2x8s and 2x6s to fit into the channel of the beams. The larger beams are 8" x 8" exterior with an inner channel of 6.5", the smaller beams are 4"h x 6"w with an inner channel of 4.5". We screwed these to the ceiling joists through the finished sheetrock using 3" deck screws (I double heart Scorpion brand screws). We then cut the beams to length, making sure to cut both ends as they come with uneven ends (ie one side longer than the other two). We then slid the beams up over the 2xs and screwed in from the side to the 2xs. We used maybe 2 screws just to hold the beam and then 2" finish nails shot through the side into the 2x. Some people recommended PL/Liquid Nails but we had a hard enough time getting the beams in place, I shudder to think where the glue might have ended up.


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 12:03 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 12:03 pm

Kitchen Update - Lighting in (mostly) and Beams review

posted by: brickton on 06.17.2011 at 09:55 am in Kitchens Forum

A while back I posted about my lighting plan for the kitchen which included a mishegoss of way too many types of lights. Thankfully you all helped me edit it down and we have it mostly in. That thread is too old to revive apparently, but I wanted to post an update. We don't have the center pendant in as we're waiting for floors, cabinets and countertops before I put a (what I'm assuming to be) ridiculously easy to break glass ball on a chain in the middle of the room.

** Ubiquitous apology for iphone photo quality here **

So here's our kitchen to be as it stands now:

Sink wall with 3 lights. Again thanks to caoh for the inspiration and exact light recommendation.

Better shot of the track lights. Ignore the scrap on the wall, it's just a flesh wound. Installing beams is hard y'all.

Looking out towards the living room dining room where the "beam" goes "through" the wall.

Our beams are pieced together hollow beams that came unfinished from Virtual Timbers. They are in the hand hewn finish and we love them. We stained them with one coat of Provincial by Minwax left on for 15 minutes and wiped off. We ended up paying less for these than some of the foam beams we priced out and seriously could not be happier with them. Both before and after staining you could not see the seam at the corner where to sides meet. They do a wonderful job and I would heartily recommend them to anyone or use them again for another project.

We did have some issues installing them but that was mostly due to us not realizing that the sheetrock tape in the corner of the wall caused the distance at the top of the beam to be tighter than the distance at the bottom of the beam by up to 1/2" inch. My contractor (who did not install them, we did) later told me he has a special tool to scribe the ends just so when he does it ... of course he does. Oh well, we can patch the walls and the gaps at the bottom of some beams (maybe 3 beams out of 7 have gaps on the bottom on one end or both) will get patched and painted if it continues to bug us, or maybe some moulding if we get desperate. The actual putting up of bracing, and nailing / screwing the beams to it was very straight forward and only required 3 guys for the one 16' beam. The cutting and measuring would have been probably fine too if I knew ahead of time to scribe or if I had checked the corner for square.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 12:01 pm

RE: Do base cabinets sit only on a subfloor? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: NYSteve on 07.05.2011 at 10:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I can tell you what we are doing.

After framing/rough plumbing & electrical/sheetrock/etc, our GC put in the plywood subfloor, then put down the hardwood floor, then put down a sealer coat of poly under where all of the cabinets would go, and then installed the cabinets. This should help protect the wood somewhat against spills/leaks/etc under the cabinets and appliances.

When everything is done, he will sand the floor right up to the edge of the cabinets and finish the floor properly.

I thought he would have held off on installing toe kicks and end panels until after the floor was fully finished, but he said that was not necessary -- they will sand right up to the cabinets without marking them at all. I hope he's right :)

In the kitchen that we ripped out, a tile floor had been put down on top of a vinyl floor as part of the previous owner's kitchen 'refresh'. This trapped the DW under the cabinet... it would have been fun to replace it. Whatever you do, make sure you don't do *that*!


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.13.2011 at 11:44 am    last updated on: 07.13.2011 at 11:44 am

RE: Everyone hates my layout - UPDATED (Follow-Up #62)

posted by: lisa_a on 05.29.2011 at 02:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

You're welcome, Natalie! Sorry to hear you'll lose the brick wall but it sounds like it's a good thing after all.

Saw this pic at houzz.com. Given that you're a family of 6, thought this set-up might work for you in your mudroom area (pegs and bench replace the counter and cabs to the left of your mudroom sink).

Stonebreaker Builders & Remodelers traditional laundry room

It would be nice if you can squeeze in more storage next to the W/D in the closet but I'm not sure it will work out in reality as well as you hope. Even if your machines can have 0" clearance between them and walls (check your manual) and you're able to install them with 0" clearance between them (tough to do), that leaves only 6" for a cabinet. Take away the 3/4" for the cabinet sides and you've got 4.5" for storage but only if you go with frameless cabinets. If you choose framed cabinets, what you've got left is hardly worth the bother and the cost of the cabinet.

You could still add pantry cabinets above the machines but I'd make the space as open as possible so that heat from both machines can dissipate into the room (washers create heat, too. Anything that uses electricity will create heat, including refrigerators). Instead of closet doors for the whole space, go with separate cabinet doors for the W/D with counter over them and cabinets above. One cab can be for pantry goods, the other for detergents and such.

Here's a photo from houzz.com that shows W/D behind cabinet doors (open):

Case Design/Remodeling, Inc. traditional family room

And with doors closed:

Case Design/Remodeling, Inc. contemporary family room

Another option to bi-fold cabinet doors is to spec doors that slide into the cabinet sides, like these:

Center Street Mudroom traditional entry

How fortunate that the space is already plumbed!

If you can't add the 12" cabinet behind the range, I strongly encourage you to raise the height of the backside of the island to increase the safety zone around your island range. You are quite used to keeping pot handles turned in and out of the aisles but I'll bet your kids aren't. I'd hate for someone to be badly burned because of the one time one of your children forgot to do this. Another plus: the raised backsplash this creates is a convenient place to add island outlets. I can't find a photo at the moment but will try later so that you can see what I'm talking about.

Not sure what a triangle sink looks like. Make sure it's sufficiently sized to be of use for your needs. Go see one in person.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 09:59 pm

RE: Range Hood Advice (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: circuspeanut on 06.26.2011 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

Catvault, the blower vents directly into the metal ducting, so nothing ever touches the wood hood cover itself. Here's what mine looked like before we built the plywood cover. What you see is the sturdy wooden support frame that holds the whole schmear up, the liner (not very visible, underneath -- in our case I tiled a liner rather than using stainless) and the blower after being connected to the ducting. If we didn't care about looks, it would have functioned just fine left like this: ;-)
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

And this is completely cheesy, but I drew this in a hurry for someone else on the forum who couldn't visualize the installation, perhaps it will help?

One thing I learned after drawing this was that these units don't actually drop down into the hole in the liner, as you'd expect, but instead are pushed up into the hole with clips that expand once it's popped up in, then screwed in for safety. This means that you can remove the unit from below if you should ever need to, without destroying the decorative exterior of your hood.

(PS: does 'catvault' mean that you have a number of felines locked up somewhere while you're doing this remodel..?)


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 09:42 pm

RE: Pros or Cons to bump out at sink??? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: jsweenc on 02.27.2010 at 04:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

Assuming you've seen enough but I just ran across another unadorned bumped out sink. Sorry the photo is so big.

Photobucket


NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 08:38 pm

RE: Pros or Cons to bump out at sink??? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: jsweenc on 02.23.2010 at 10:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are bumping our sink out 3" because the windows come down pretty low and I wanted to be sure to have space for the faucet behind. We have casement windows so I don't think the reach will be an issue.

It was intended all along to bump it out but though I mentioned it to cabinet guy, we both forgot when he was drawing. I just had him add it this week but didn't want to take too much away from adjacent cabinets, so he just added a 2" filler next to the DW and a stile for the cabinet on the other side. For us, it is purely functional; it will not be decorated, just bumped straight out. I don't think it will look silly. I would have loved to have it with decorative columns, but I think it will be fine. I'll add interest in other areas. Cabinets are underway and should be done in a week or so. (Motherof3, I'll post pics when I have counters, probably not for another 3 weeks.)

nhbaskets has an undecorated bump-out; looks great, nice and simple.
Photobucket

Dish drawer in island


NOTES:

why would you need to add 2" on either side? doesn't the sink base just come out ~2"?
clipped on: 07.08.2011 at 08:35 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2011 at 08:36 pm

RE: What are easiest to clean range tops? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: herring_maven on 01.25.2011 at 10:21 pm in Appliances Forum

jaxo asks:

"What's the best cleaner for the induction cooktop?
I bought some Wieman Cook Top Daily Cleaner and I don't like the it works."

Weiman is fine -- really good, actually -- but: (1) ignore the "daily" part. (2) When you use Weiman, put the cleaner on the paper towel, and apply the cleaner with the paper towel; never squirt the cleaner on the cooktop itself.

(3) Use the Weiman once every three weeks or a month, for "deep" cleaning. In between, daily, use Windex Vinegar Multi-Purpose Cleaner.


NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2011 at 09:55 pm

RE: What are easiest to clean range tops? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: macybaby on 11.14.2010 at 09:41 pm in Appliances Forum

I consider myself a sloppy cook. I measure the fun I had cooking with the level of mess I leave behind when I'm done.

I've never had a gas stove. For the first 11 years of marriage, I had coil cooktops (in 7 different apartments) and I considered them the worst to clean. Might as well toss out the liners every few years and start fresh.

Then we bought our first house, and for the next 19 years I had glass/ceramic topped electric stoves (4 total) and never thought they were all that hard to clean compared to coil - But they weren't all that easy so I'd let them go too long, and then spend about 20 minutes scrubbing them, but they always came out looking like brand new. The only one I ever got even a scratch on was the last one when I was using my 16 qt Presto pressure canner - and I didn't lift it fully before trying to adjust it on the burner. Wasn't much of a scratch - but I knew where to look. I had that stove for 6 years and other than the scratch, when cleaned it looked brand new. I hated cleaning them though, probably why I only did it when it got so bad I couldn't handle it anymore (we almost never have company so I wasn't worried about that). ALready cooked on yuck didn't seem to hamper performance and once it was cooked on, it didn't seem to get any worse from being cooked on about 20 more times before I cleaned it. Ok, sounds like I'm a total slob. I'd wipe up what I could, but there would always be a a few spots of something that got cooked on, but it wasn't like the whole burner. I waited to give it a good scrub until I had lots of cooked on spots.

In all that time, I only found one cleaner I thought did a good job, others didn't seem to be able to get every single bit of burned on yuck off the stove, and I would scrub until every single speck was gone (you can feel them even if you can't see them well).

Got an induction cooktop installed this spring. I would have gone with slide in, but at the time I started looking, I didn't find one I wanted, then got use to the idea of double wall ovens so that is the route I went. There are some nice slide-ins available now.

This makes cleaning a non-event. Nothing gets cooked on so everything wipes off easily. Even boiled over cocoa-wheats. I'm use to glass/ceramic topped stoves so I don't use it any different, but the difference in performance and ease of use is wonderful.

About two days after installing it, my DH told me we would NEVER go back to regular electric. I'm OK with that.

I have no idea if they are subject to breaking if you drop something heavy on them, I guess in 20 years I've never dropped anything heavy on it. Even when I had a OTR microwave for several years. Raised 2 kids during that time and they never broke it either - and who knows what they may have done in the teen years. Even my DH didn't manage to break it, and he's rougher than I am.

Hopefully I have not jinxed myself - I'd hate to have my induction cook top get broken!

Cathy


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clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:53 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2011 at 09:53 pm

can we talk mixers?

posted by: kateskouros on 04.14.2011 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

my kitchen aid is 21 years old and it still works great ...sort of. i stalled the motor the last time i used it and had to toss what i was doing. the 5 quart bowl is too small but besides that, it just can't handle dense dough -especially not when i triple recipes. it was fine after i let it rest but i've decided she's just not working for me anymore. fine for light use, but that's about it.

i'm a baker so mixing up a lot of dough. i do bread occasionally but have been hesitant since i feel the KA won't cut it. i need a larger capacity bowl and much heftier motor. thought i'd look around for a hobart but they either make a 5 quart -which is what i have now or a 10 and 20 quart. both those options are too huge size-wise and take up a lot of space, as well as operate on 220 volt power so they're out. i found a globe which is a little less expensive than hobart, but still pricey and also quite large.

so i decide the commercial mixers are just too much of everything and go back to searching for a home kitchen machine. i look at bosch, cuisinart, hamilton beach and a few others. and then i find the electrolux magic mill deluxe (N28). does anyone have one of these? operating at 600 watts and boasting a full horsepower motor it looks about right. it takes an 8 quart bowl and seems like a reputable product. it's much different from other stand mixers in that the bowl rotates while the attachments remain stationery, but do turn in the opposite direction. also has a bowl scraper that can be used which looks like a really cool thing to someone easily impressed, such as myself.

i spent last night looking at youtube videos of these things in action and honestly, when i saw what they can do i heard myself making some of the sounds normally reserved for times people are having intimate relations.

so who's got one???

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clipped on: 04.14.2011 at 09:17 pm    last updated on: 04.14.2011 at 09:17 pm

RE: Electrical Socket Placement, Hiding Sockets & General Advice (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: brickeyee on 03.26.2011 at 06:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

The general National Electric Code (NEC) requirement for kitchen counter space is that no place on the counter can be more than 24 inches from a receptacle measured parallel to the wall, and ALL counter receptacle must be GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protected.

Sinks do not count, ranges do not count, etc. in the receptacle spacing.

It can get touchy if windows come down to the counter.
There is no exception in the NEC for having the required receptacles, and they cannot be placed face up in a counter.

Any section of counter more than 12 inches wide requires a receptacle.

There are limits on counter overhang for receptacles under the counter (though it is pretty large) and how far below the counter the receptacles can be.

You can use things like plug-mold on a GFCI protected circuit placed on the bottom of the upper cabinets (or on the wall just below the upper cabinets, or on an angle under the upper cabinets).

Receptacles inside appliance garages do not count.

The kitchen counters must be supplied by at least two 20 amp 'small appliance branch circuits' that can only be used for the counter receptacles (you can feed 120 V to a gas stove, a clock, or a refrigerator).

Lighting, dishwashers, garbage disposals, trash compactors, and other permanent equipment are NOT allowed on the small appliance circuits.

Kitchens have a lot of specific rules in the NEC.
Some places have even more local rules, a few fewer rules.


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clipped on: 04.13.2011 at 11:13 pm    last updated on: 04.13.2011 at 11:13 pm

Question! Type of Kitchen Window (Casement vs. Double Hung)??

posted by: ChelsT on 04.08.2011 at 10:20 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello! I am a new member to the forum...My husband and I just bought a new house and are in the process of renovating our kitchen. I've found this site very helpful so far! I have a question about the type of windows to go with in our kitchen....

Above the kitchen sink, we have a window that is approx. four feet wide. Right now it's just a picture window that doesn't open and we're going to replace it. My builder would like for us to use an awning window, but I feel like it wouldn't give us enough air when open. He thinks if we replace with either casement or double hungs then we'd have to have 2 windows and would be bothered by the bar going between them. He also thinks that double hung are too difficult to open when placed over a sink.

I just can't seem to make a decision about which style to go with! Any opinions would be appreciated!

Thank you!

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clipped on: 04.13.2011 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 04.13.2011 at 09:30 am

RE: for all you drawer fans... questions about drawer bottoms (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: natschultz on 04.13.2011 at 03:04 am in Kitchens Forum

1/4" bottoms seem to be common for some reason. That is why I am planning on having custom drawers made. I have some 1/4" plywood - great for the back of upholstered headboards, yet FLIMSY as hell! I would NEVER trust my dishes in a drawer like that. The glides and 5/8" solid dovetailed sides are all good though.

Honestly, I have a serious problems with the majority of cabinet makers these days because of things like this - the "good" ones use Blum glides (very important) and then say that the glides strengthen the drawer and carry the weight - WRONG! The glides do carry the weight of the entire drawer and contents (so must be rated 75-100 pounds plus in order to glide properly and not break), but they DO NOT strengthen the drawer bottom - your stuff is still being supported by the bottom only - if you load your drawer up with tons of china the glides may hold up but a 1/4" thick bottom will buckle under the weight at the center. All bottoms must be dadoed into the sides, but that is still not enough, in my opinion. Pots and pans (unless cast iron or solid copper) are not nearly as heavy (or breakable) as china though, so in that case you'll probably be ok.

No offense, but for the price of these cabinets (Ikea excepted - the price fits), they should last at least 50 years, and 1/4" bottoms will NOT! That is also why I insist on 3/4" thick cabinets - the glides attach to the cabinets and a weak cabinet will not hold as well for as long as a strong thick one. BTW - Blum bottom-mount glides attach to the backs of the cabinets, not the sides, so 1/4" cabinet backs won't do you any good unless there are SOLID 3/4" thick back mounting rails attached.


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clipped on: 04.13.2011 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 04.13.2011 at 09:26 am

My finished kitchen/fam.rm. pics - - Thanks GW!!

posted by: bellacucina on 04.12.2011 at 04:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks GW'ers for helping me design my dream kitchen!!! Basically, we kept the same floor plan but relocated and changed the door to the deck and the windows (added 2 extra). We started with a KD that gave us some preliminary floor plan ideas, but quickly were on our own when we didn't hire her GC partner for the construction. And so I turned to GW, and I really don't think I could've done it without you! If you see elements of your kitchens in mine, remember that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery ☺ Thank you for your inspiration and advice. Thanks especially momqs (my friend & neighbor) who lived thru the process right before me and gave me so many tips, cautions and survival skills.

My goal: a timeless kitchen with high power (gas BTU) range and a second oven to facilitate my love of baking and cooking.

We also had a terrific GC who said it would take 8 weeks and delivered. If you are near in the SW Philly 'burbs and need a recommendation, just email me!

I still need finishing touches, like photos, pops of color etc.... and probably will be turning to the Decorating Forum for help on that!

Some pics:
(before)
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After:
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This shows the Marron cohiba withoout the sunlight shining on it,
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and with it:
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Guess which feature was all DH's planning?

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The details:

Range: Capital Culinarian 36" with wok grate
Hood: Rangecraft (curvette)
Fridge: Liebherr 2x 24", cabinet depth, smartsteel
Oven/Micro combo: Electrolux Icon 30"
DW: Miele Optima II
Faucets: KWC Eve for main sink; Eve soap dispenser; Eve Demi for island sink; Kohler simplice for mudroom

Water filter: Royal Doulton ceramic
Airswitches/ disposals (2): insinkerator
Sinks: Krauss SS near-zero radius for main and mudroom; "Belmont" sink from stainless-sink.com for island
Granite: "Ice Brown" on island- Fabulous experience with StoneMasters in Kennett Square (Thank you Beekeeperswife!!!!) And "Marron Cohiba" on perimeter; and honed absolute black (or something like it) on the FP

Cabinets: Wellsford Cabinetry, Stowe, PA- Crystal White with Oyster glaze on perimeter and Cherry with Sable glaze on island; full overlay
Hardware: Amerock "Revitalize"

Backsplash: Walkerzanger "Helsinki" minibricks and 1x1s
Flooring: Qtrsawn Whiteoak site finished in Minwax (25% ebony with 75% red mahogany plus 3 coats semigloss poly with 1 finish coat of satin)
Windows: Anderson
French doors: Pella with internal shades

Paint: BM aura matte Ashley Gray walls; ceilings cut to 50% in family room and *about* 25% in the kitchen. BM aura matte Wolf gray in mudroom. BM aura Marscapone trim and cabs (cabinet coat)

Pendants: Jamie Young (large St. Charles in mercury glass)
Chandy: Quoizel DW1824 "Downtown"

Stools: overstock cosmopolitan dark brown leather (Thank you GW!)
Chairs: overstock Soho cream leather (Thank you Beekeeperswife!)
Table: Costplus Worldmarket Charlotte table 42" round w/ ext.

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clipped on: 04.13.2011 at 09:21 am    last updated on: 04.13.2011 at 09:21 am

RE: Miele Induction Cooktop: Set Flush or Drop In (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: cotehele on 04.07.2011 at 08:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Fori, thanks. :-)

Here are a couple of pics of the flush mount cooktop. The fabricator took the cooktop to the shop and did the opening there. There is 1/8'' clearance on each side. He is an engineer who designed all the heavy equipment he uses to fabricate stone. I trusted him completely.

Don't use caulk around the cooktop. Cleaning isn't that difficult with the unit in place. Running a small icing spatula wrapped in a damp paper towel or very thin cloth gets out most of the crumbs. Also my Dyson hand vac sucks a lot of loose crumbs out. When it needs major cleaning, it can be pushed out with total access to the countertop.

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clipped on: 04.07.2011 at 11:21 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2011 at 11:22 pm

RE: Ikea Kitchens (Follow-Up #101)

posted by: jenswrens on 07.08.2010 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

Come now, Shelayne - we can say it's still spring, can't we? :-) And didn't I see a pic of some of your cabs recently, already painted?

OK - since I may never finish my IKEA kitchen before we tear the house down and start rebuilding, I guess I'll go ahead and post some pics of what I have now.

I've been working on my IKEA completely DIY kitchen since before 2006 (argh!). We did IKEA carcasses with quite a few modifications, IKEA BB, and finished it off with a custom hood/island and custom, painted doors that were finally just installed about 2 months ago. Here are a couple of shots of the most finished part (sink wall). The fridge wall still has a few naked spots so no pics of that yet.




I have IKEA Stat white in my laundry room. Just love to see all these great IKEA kitchens here!


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clipped on: 08.14.2010 at 09:18 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2010 at 09:18 pm

RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: cat_mom on 02.10.2010 at 11:03 am in Kitchens Forum

Buehl, can you add:

3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray) to the SS cleaner list? Roccocogurl had recommmended it way back, and I've been using it with good results ever since. It's rated by the NFST (?) as being safe to use in food prep areas, too.

Also, "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B) works well for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges, and it cleans our granite beautifully. It's residue-free so doesn't leave streaks and smudges like some of the others I'd tried. Little to NO scent, which is a plus in my book as well.

Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner for HW floors.

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 01:34 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 01:34 pm

RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: buehl on or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers in Kitchens Forum

To start...

  • Granite...microfiber cloth along with one of the following:
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Method granite cleaner & polish
    • Don't use plumber's putty on your marble
      or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers

  • Stainless Steel...microfiber cloth along with one of the following:
    • Weisman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed)...
    • Mild detergent & water
    • Don't install a nickel strainer
    • Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • Don't use bleach on nickel

  • Glass oven top:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 01:34 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 01:34 pm