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RE: My new favorite SS (and granite, and glass) cleaner! (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: cat_mom on 09.11.2010 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

It seemed a 50-50 ratio of alcohol to water was the popular proportion used by folks on GW. I've seen varying am'ts during my online search for the correct proportions, so I don't think it's carved in stone.

I started by using ~50-50 with the lavendar essential oil added (it does not seem to cause streaking, BTW). Lavendar oil has anti-bacterial properties, so in addition to smelling nice, it is beneficial as a germ fighting agent.

I spoke with a Dr. at the EPA re: the correct proportions to use in order to disinfect bathroom/kitchen surfaces. He told me that 10% alcohol to 90% water would do the job (I could adjust down a little if adding the lavendar oil). I thought the mixture with the reduced am't of alcohol to water evaporated slower (on my mirrors for example), and maybe looked a little streakier, so I bumped the alcohol am't back up. I probably use anywhere from 30-50% alcohol.



clipped on: 09.15.2010 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 09.15.2010 at 09:31 am

RE: help please with ventilation (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: clinresga on 08.02.2008 at 10:00 am in Appliances Forum

kateskouros and mahlgold:
Options are a curse and a blessing. With Modern-Aire, you really have many options:

1) buy a hood liner with an internal blower mounted inside the hood. This would all come from Modern-Aire

2) buy a hood liner but with an inline blower (the kind that mounts in the attic). You would get a Modern Aire hood and then purchase the blower and needed accessories. You CAN, but do not have to buy the blower from Modern Aire. This is what I did. I chose to use a Fantech blower and silencer based on my prior experience with Fantech. It happens that this is a blower that Jeff at Modern Aire also liked (and I'd certainly recommend it--it's the FKD10XL blower and the LD10 silencer).

I ended up buying the Fantech from MA even though Jeff suggested I look online for it. I do think I could have saved several hundred dollars in cost and shipping had I done that, but I was on a tight timeline, and did not want to take the risk of buying equipment from an unknown internet vendor and finding out that I got the wrong thing. So, I paid closer to list price and shipping from Cal to Georgia, but had the luxury of Jeff telling me exactly what I needed.

3) hood liner plus external blower (mounts on roof). Jeff had suggested the Abakka low profile roof mount unit. We elected to go inline.

Regarding the infinitely variable, remotely mounted controls: this is a feature I love about the Modern Aire. Two advantages: the continuously variable speed control allows you to adjust the fan speed exactly to what you need. That's particularly useful (versus for example the Vent a Hood we have at the lake) when you want a very low setting--say just simmering something. The VAH even at low is annoyingly loud. The MA hood, with an external fan and silencer, should be close to inaudible on a very low setting.

Having the switches for fan and lights on the wall is also nice. I'm tall enough that to see the three switches on my VAH hood I have to bend over and then crane my neck to look into the hood. Contrast that to reaching to hit the switch on the wall next to the range. A little point, but a nice plus with hoods that allow remote location.

Again, advantage for me with MA has been that one person has helped make all my choices. I tortured Jeff for weeks with emails with all kinds of questions which he patiently answered. They made sure I ordered all the requisite accessories for the blower (backdraft damper, clamps, rheostat, etc). And they were able to build a hood which was exactly to my specs--we went with a 64'' width, NOT a standard hood width, to go over our 55'' Lacanche range.

Again, I sound like a MA crony, and I'm not, I have NO personal interest in them!! But I have had a very good experience with them. I am confident other companies can do something similar, but I greatly prefer dealing with a small company like MA or Independent or Prestige rather than trying to get customer svc from a huge company like Broan. Or, if my assessment is correct, from your clueless appliance company.



clipped on: 08.17.2010 at 11:06 am    last updated on: 08.17.2010 at 11:06 am

RE: help please with ventilation (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: breezy_2 on 07.31.2008 at 09:46 pm in Appliances Forum

I agree and disagree with many comments here but we have butted heads on this one before and it is indeed a matter of personal preference and experience often.

I don't think anyone who insists on anything is full of it if they know what they are talking about. In this case, I agree that a minimum of 1100 CFMs for a 48 inch unit is a must from my experience.

I agree that capture area is just as important. Both should be sized for ideal operation. IMO, ideal operation is when both the capture area and CFMs are a bit oversized. I like the concept that the ventilation is designed to run at about half speed for everyday normal (but involved) cooking. Maximum power is reserved for peak situations like grilling or blackening etc. I can tell you that the 900 CFM 36 inch Wolf hood (the extra deep unit w/heat lamps) I had matched with their 36 inch range just barely kept up with day to day cooking on high and half speed was an option only when I was shutting down to simmer and warm mode just before serving.

As to make up air, it does not have to be expensive and, although I am no expert, I have not heard it raised as a code concern in a residential setting. We did have to add a make up air source for our current setup but it is passive meaning it provides an outside source for the hood to pull from and does not "force air" into the area. It works just fine. Before the make up air unit was finished off by the HVAC guys just after moveing in (long story) we used another mode of make up air...a very slightly cracked window. It worked pretty well to.

I strongly agree with others that although your ventilation is not a sexy purchase (unless of course you are commissioning someone like Abakka to custom make one for you) you will regret skimping on it if you do. At a minimum, capture should be the same siz as the unit and ideally 6-12 inches wider (3-6 inches either side) and deeper as well. And, to beat a dead horse, use the BTU per CFM guidelines (can't remember what they are) and round up. Always remember, if you put in too many CFMs, you can just turn your unit down. If you don't have enough, your only option is to buy a bigger blower and pay for a redo.


clipped on: 08.17.2010 at 11:05 am    last updated on: 08.17.2010 at 11:05 am

RE: Miele dishwasher warranty/installation (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: antss on 08.14.2010 at 01:46 pm in Appliances Forum

the certification program is designed to ensure that the Dw gets installed properly which eliminates a lot of call to Miele.

However it's possible that the installer you get never went through the training, or ignores what he was supposed to do. A lot of times the owner of the co. went to the training so XYZ Installs is "certified" but the guy that comes to your house has never heard of Miele and is at the mercy of his boss's ability to impart the info he gleaned at the training session.

That said, certified co's ore generally better than non.

Installing one is not rocket science and ALL the directions are in the owner's manual. The high points are: supply shutoff is atypical, the units are 60 cm - not 24" like everything else, don't overtighten the panel bolts or the leg leveler screws.


clipped on: 08.14.2010 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2010 at 03:54 pm

RE: Help me spend $20 - $30,000.... (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: deeageaux on 08.13.2010 at 12:05 am in Appliances Forum

A 36" Subzero should not blow half of a 30k budget. A 48" sz has a street price of around 12-13k so 36" should be under 10k. If you go with the 60" range you'll be looking at another 12k or so. That's about 8-10k left for the rest. Not much since you'll want a decent hood but doable. Say 5k for hood system if you go 60" range. It'll be about 1k for a SZ beverage fridge and 1k (min) for a meile dw. 1.5k for speed oven. If I read your post correctly you won't need a wall oven if you get the 60" range. MW is up to you but count on $500-1500 for a built-in. Alternative is to go 48" which will knock about 3-4k off the range price and 1-2k off the hood price. That could easily get you a wall oven and warming drawer I think.

I echo amcooks sentiments here.

Range Hood - Look at Prestige,Independent,and Modern Aire. Look at their offerings. Give a call to the one you like the most to discuss your needs. Prestige places light bulbs in the middle to increase capture area but sacrifice a little lighting effiency.

Oven - 1)Gaggenau 2)Miele 3)Capital 4)Wolf 5)Electrolux if you want to save here to spend a little more elsewhere

Speed oven/Microwave - 1)Miele 2a)GE(Monogram)Advantium 2b)Electrolux

Microwave- Sharp Drawer

Warming Drawer - "Not super important" ditto. Match with whatever you got elsewhere

Dishwasher-1)Miele 2abc Asko Bosch KitchenAid

If anybody wants to find out about what Viking owners themselves have to say about their appliances look at the thread linked.

Here is a link that might be useful: viking - all owners please


clipped on: 08.13.2010 at 07:34 am    last updated on: 08.13.2010 at 07:35 am

RE: Cookie Tray Cabinet (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: calimama on 07.23.2010 at 08:50 am in Kitchens Forum

I have this- I have a 12 in tray cabinet with 18 inch stack of drawers. I use every inch of both. The tray cabinet was one of my big wishlist items, as my last one had a shelf in the back, and was more narrow, so it was hard to get cupcake tins, and wider things in and out. Love this cabinet! Good luck with the sale!!



clipped on: 07.23.2010 at 06:54 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2010 at 06:54 pm

RE: How do you get deals on high-end appliances? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: mojavean on 03.04.2010 at 05:28 pm in Appliances Forum

Craigslist is not friendly towards broad area searches. But you can get around the built-in balkanization of craigslist by using google to search for what you want.

Enter your search terms into google, and then add "" (omit the quotation marks).

This will restrict the search to the craigslist domain. You can further limit the search by specifying, through the google advanced search feature, pages that have been added within the last day, week, etc., further limiting the scope of the search.

Perhaps the easiest and most efficient way to find what you want is to set a "google alert." With an alert set, google does the work for you. Here's an example.

First, construct the search. Say you are looking for an Aga Cooker. So you would type the following text into the google search bar:

aga cooker

Now, execute the search and check the results. Are you getting the type of returns you are looking for? If so, then you are ready to create the alert.

Once you have the search string written to optimize your results, select it and copy it to your clipboard. Now, go to the google alerts page.

Paste the string into the search field, set up how you want to be notified. I recommend selecting to be notified immediately with comprehensive search. Then hit the create alert button. You will start getting emails whenever a new ad with what you are looking for posts to craigslist. The search will not be restricted just to one city, and you will be notified pretty soon after the ad posts. You can also tailer the alert to further restrict results as necessary.


clipped on: 07.11.2010 at 11:57 am    last updated on: 07.11.2010 at 11:57 am

Speak now or forever hold your peace!

posted by: peace_rose on 07.10.2010 at 01:59 am in Kitchens Forum

After a zillion different layouts and a winter's worth of minor delays we are *this close* to ordering the cabinets!!! We've built a 15'x23' addition where we are relocating the kitchen/dining room. We've got the electrical and plumbing roughed in, and the dry wall is up. I'm not looking for major layout changes; there's just a few areas that need some tweaking:

1. Those 30" base cabinets on either side of the stove. Can anyone make a good argument for roll out trays? As it turns out, drawers are not all that much more expensive. But should I get base cabs with 2 or 3 drawers? Would it look off-balance if I did one of each? (I'm planning on storing pots/pans/tupperware/serving bowls/casserole dishes/mixing bowls and hot pads near the stove, but not food). I'm wondering if the 2 drawer cabs are too deep and if we'll wind up with wasted space? My hunch is to get one of each; can anyone confirm my hunch or challenge me on that?


2. Question about FORM: The ceiling is 8' high behind the stove but vaults to about 13' high in the middle of the room. Here's a pic of the stove wall:


Partial view of the Sink Wall:


And the Pantry Wall:


I'm trying to figure out how to gracefully place the molding at the top of the cabinets because there will be a gradually increasing space between the top of the molding and the ceiling. Any thoughts?

3. Question about FORM: I intended to place a glass fronted cabinet above the DW, but the cabinet company doesn't offer them in 24" wide. But they do offer them in 18" which would work on both sides of the stove. Any opinions on which place would look better for glass fronted cabs? (I think my husband could ultimately modify a 24" cab but he would really grumble about it). But if you think it would look better above the DW where my dishes will be, please say so!

It's exciting to be this close. We broke ground last August, so working on the finishing touches is both exhilarating and nerve-wracking!

Thanks GW friends!


clipped on: 07.10.2010 at 08:54 am    last updated on: 07.10.2010 at 09:16 am

RE: duct work questions for installing kitchen hood vent (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: guadalupe on 11.25.2009 at 11:06 am in Appliances Forum

rigid duct is best and using 1 screw per section before duct taping also making sure you have a back draft damper somewhere in the duct run or on the roof or wall cap


clipped on: 07.08.2010 at 09:44 pm    last updated on: 07.08.2010 at 09:44 pm

RE: Capital Precision 48' Rangetop Issues (Follow-Up #25)

posted by: whosthatgirl007 on 07.04.2010 at 07:29 am in Appliances Forum

This reply came directly from Surjit, I thought you all might find it helpful:

I am grateful for your forwarding the LINK. I read it with interest. Since I am unable to get in the GardenWeb can you post my comments about the Simmer issue and the Pot Tipping issue. Simmer is only a five minute job. If people call our service manager Bob Waymire at 562-903-1168 he will have it taken care of promptly. Though I was aware of one person complaining about the stability of our TOP GRATES, even one dissatisfied customer is a major thing for me. I had the grate redesigned immediately. A new and modified grate has been in Production for many months now. You will have nothing to worry about.



clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 08:17 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 08:17 pm

RE: Capital Precision 48' Rangetop Issues (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: don000 on 04.17.2009 at 11:22 pm in Appliances Forum

Call John Tate @ 866-402-4600------He is capitol's service rep.


clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 08:11 pm    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 08:12 pm

RE: Anyone Got Experience With Quartz Countertops? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: vidaprodiga on 05.25.2010 at 12:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I LOVE QUARTZ- ESPECIALLY CAMBRIA. I am a designer for countertops and we sell Cambria 95% of the time. It's a GREAT product, non-porous, scratch resistant, and can withstand high heat. For instance I iron my clothes on my counter(of course I use a towel on the surface first). I had quartz installed just recently and was really torn between granite or cambria. I chose cambria because it require less up keep- NEVER needs to be sealed, and you can prepare food on the surfaces and will never seep into the core of the counter. I would go with Cambria if you like the fact that it's made here in the US and their the 'creme de la creme' of quartz. Not everyone can sell it, they are picky about who they let represent their products.
I am a huge advocate of Cambria and would sell nothing more than just Cambria, but again it does not offer all the color SileStone, Hanstone, Viatera, Zodiaq, Ceaserstone offers. There are other suppliers that are starting to bloom, one of them is located in the Pac NW, Chroma from Pental- their colors are very nueatural and nature inspired.

BTW- we retail our Cambria under $70.00 per square foot, with edge profile at .50 cents an inch. We purchase our slabs direct and fabricate them ourselves. If you are going through a cabinet shop or carpet dealer, then you are going to pay more than if you went to a fabricator direct. Too many middle men getting a chunk from the sale.

I hope this helps you out- CAMBRIA ROCKS..... oh and it will dull your knives if you cut on it- its that strong!

Here is a pic of my kitchen AFTER counters were installed... I have since painted my cabinets and installed new floors and appliances...


clipped on: 07.04.2010 at 03:32 am    last updated on: 07.04.2010 at 03:33 am

RE: Hood, Blowers, Liners....lost... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: jcoxmd on 06.24.2010 at 11:39 pm in Appliances Forum

Just went through this. I am no expert, but may be qualified to do the intro for the "idiot's guide" (don't take that personally.) This is what I have gathered from hours of gardenweb..maybe it'll give you a headstart.

This is in addition to the concise and accurate information that has already been posted-

First, figure out what size...42", OK. You got that one already.

Second, figure out how much sucking power you need (standard formula has to do with adding BTUs of your burners and dividing by 100=# CFMs you need.) Not that simple, though. You may want more, depending on your situation. Variables include type of cooking you do (wok? grill?), height of hood above range, whether there are side cabinets to help direct air flow, efficiency of overall setup. Your range may suggest the CFM to choose. (In your note above I think you're thinking 1000+. 100 would be really quite weak.)More power=more noise potentially, but I believe a stronger blower running at 1/2 strength is quieter than a weaker blower at full strength-that may factor in as well.

Next, decide where the actual motor will be. In the hood itself (internal), or outside the hood (inline, i.e. in your attic or some other space, or exterior, i.e. mounted on roof or an outside wall?) As noted above, internal is the most simple, but depending on your set-up you can minimize noise with an external blower. This decision may be made for you-maybe your only choice space-wise is internal. Your choice also affects the price.

Next, pick baffles, mesh, squirrel cage. These are the filters. Your choice will affect sound, ease of cleaning, efficiency. (Use the search function for opinions.)

Look at brands, see what fits your budget and your needs. You may find inserts that are smaller than the size you need, but that coordinate with a liner that fit between the insert and your cabinetry to be the right size.

Talk to your installer, be sure they do not cut corners on the size of the ducts, and that they minimize turns in your ducting for optimal suckage and quietness.

Last step:(the one I am on now) pray that the set-up you assembled will be what you need. I really think this was the hardest thing-each part of the decision is so personalized to your situation-the length of your ducts, the style of your cooking.

Good Luck!


clipped on: 06.25.2010 at 12:27 am    last updated on: 06.25.2010 at 12:27 am

RE: buying appliance from unauthorized dealer...? (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: mojavean on 06.23.2010 at 11:08 am in Appliances Forum

Not sure what the Miele policy is, but I do know that there are dealers who will horsetrade with you. Call around and ask if any dealers around you have what you want. Tell them you are looking for a showroom display with a full warranty, or better yet, something that has been sitting in the shop's warehouse for too many months and they want to move.

And don't forget the magic words that make any salesman salivate:

"I am ready to buy now if I can find a good deal."

Miele "policies" are one thing; just remember, you can negotiate anything.

Best wishes and good luck finding what you want.


clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 11:49 pm

Finished Kitchen Refresh

posted by: hgluckman on 04.19.2010 at 10:51 am in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen is now done except for having the floor refinished. We had our house built 19 1/2 years ago, and have enjoyed our kitchen the entire time. With only a single 27-in oven, we still managed to have some really nice dinner parties including Christmas dinner for 35 a couple of times. For the two of us it's worked really well. So, going in, we decided we didn't want to make wholesale changes. We really liked the cabinets, but they did need to be refinished and we wanted to update the appliances - including getting a double oven, replace the formica countertops, and freshen up the look somewhat. DW also *really* wanted the filtered water system.

Here's what it looked like when we started:

From Kitchen Before

From Kitchen Before

From Kitchen Before

After 19 years, the cabinets had faded considerably:

From Kitchen Before

Here's how we envisioned the remodel in SketchUp - I would have more samples of this, but my hard drive crashed and I lost a lot :-(

From Kitchen Remodel

The table on the far right was just a concept, and the bar stools haven't been bought yet, but here's the actual result:
From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

The following pictures were taken after the outlets, switches and switchplates were painted to match the backsplash:

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

Here's some closer looks at the cabinets and the new hardware:

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

We had a cutting board pullout made based on something we saw on GW:

From Kitchen Remodel

Here are the details:
SubZero BI36R - all refrigerator
KitchenAid KEBS278SBL 27-in Double Convection Oven
Broan 283603 Downdraft - exterior blower
Panasonic NN-SN667B Microwave
Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Upright Freezer (in pantry)
WasteKing 9980 Disposer (with Insinkerator air switch)
Kenmore Diswasher, Kenmore Trash Compactor and Kitchen Aid gas cooktop were all existing

Granite - Russian Sable from Arizona Tile
The backsplash was DW's project, and I think she hit it out of the park. We had wanted a copper glass tile, but hadn't found anything. One day, she was poking around on-line and found the deco mosaic, which is called Nutmeg Versailles from Unique Building Concepts. She went to their website, and found the matching 6x6 field tile on closeout at $2/sf! We bought all of it - about 20-30 tiles too many, then started work on putting it all together.

We weren't wild about one of the colors in the mosaic - kind of a khaki color - so she came up with the idea of putting in a solid copper medallion from Landmark Metalcoat to replace the 2x2s and some teal glass tiles from Crossville for the 1x1s. The liners are from Dal-Tile and the copper quarter round that you see behind the sink (also at the ends of the island) are from Landmark.

Lighting -
Hubbardton Forge Sierra Patina Copper Pendants
Can lighting was reused. Some cans were removed in the breakfast room and family room and replaced with small halogen spot lights

Sink - Blanco Silgranit 440179 in Anthracite
Faucet - Kohler Clairette in black
Filtered water faucet - Waterstone "Parche" 1400HC
Insta Hot tank - Quick & Hot
Chiller - Oasis ProSelect R1P
Filtration - Everpure H-104

Cabinet hardware - RK International CP-3716-DC (Distressed Copper)

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Discussion Forum Link


clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 10:32 am

RE: Help me finish my kitchen, please? (pics) (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: maks_2000 on 06.23.2010 at 11:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Beautiful cabinets, beautiful kitchen!! I love the arches.

Take a cabinet door to the Granite Distributor, then you can see what will look great with it. You can do something dramatic like the rain forrest above on the island and hone a black on the perimeter will be nice or there are many beautiful light granites with golds that may suit you -- they also look great honed. After you pick the granite, then pick the paint & the backsplash. You can coordinate your handles with your faucet or give them a furniture look.

I'm not sure what granite/marble to tell you for a southern kitchen, perhaps someone else has some insight there . . .

Melinrk is right: this is the fun stuff, of course, I freak out about it since I know I'll be living with my decisions for a long time.

Good luck!


clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 06:40 am    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 06:40 am

When planning a kitchen - words of wisdom

posted by: loves2cook4six on 01.08.2010 at 12:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know they've been said before but just to re-iterate:

Plan in zones rather than work triangles: Baking, prepping, cooking, cleanup

Think about how you cook your favorite most often used recipes. What pots, how much prep, what utensils, any pantry goods? Now think where you will store that stuff. Will it be easily accessible or will you need to walk across the kitchen and around the island to get to the pantry, potatoes, etc? Will you need to walk with a heavy pot from your prep area to your oven to braise a stew?

Think about cleanup: Is the DW easily accessible to the eating area(s). What about storage containers for left overs? How far is the fridge to put away the leftovers. How accessible is the storage for every day dishes and flatware both to the table and to the DW's. Where will the trash be?

You shouldn't finish your kitchen and then start deciding where you will put things away. That should be part of the design process.

I want to stress this because lately I have been seeing so many GORGEOUS kitchens that don't function at all well (you may recall my friends kitchen :( ).

You can have BOTH so why settle for less. Yes, it's true that sometimes you will need to compromise and decide what is more important, form or function but that still makes you think about where things will be.


clipped on: 06.24.2010 at 12:34 am    last updated on: 06.24.2010 at 12:34 am

RE: Progress on the kitchen you all helped me not to hate! (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: judydel on 06.20.2010 at 11:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

How about a ming green marble or a jade green marble? You could use a sealer with enhancer, which makes the marble stay shiny looking to match the sheen on your granite if you wanted to. I think it would be neutral enough to go with whatever greens you have in the DR and LR. After all, no matchy matchy these days.

Ming Green


Jade Green


clipped on: 06.23.2010 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 06.23.2010 at 09:42 am

RE: Stainless Sink Recommendations? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: igloochic on 05.03.2009 at 02:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before you buy a sink, talk to your fabricator. I have a franke commercial ss sink, and I love it, but even on sale on ebay ($1,'s 30x18 and 12" deep) the fabricator could have beat the price by $400 bucks! I do recommend my Franke but I wouldn't have purchased it if I'd have known how easy it would be for the fabricator to do it for us. It was actually more in labor to integrate an already made sink as well. Really, talk to them first, then if you don't think you'll get what you want, buy a franke or the like :) (Kindred is great). Commercial grade stainless is an inportant factor (to me anyhoo) as it tends to last a lifetime in a huge commercial kitchen...and while I beat it up...I'm not that bad heh heh

This is my integrated sink with a drain board/runnels:


clipped on: 06.22.2010 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2010 at 07:16 pm

The oldest kitchen remodel on GW...finally finished cherry kitche

posted by: igloochic on 03.17.2010 at 02:38 am in Kitchens Forum

This is almost yawn worthy but for me, it's an accomplishment because I can finally post our "finished" kitchen. OK not totally finished but 99% so I give up. I still have to hang the bamboo shades over the table nook and make the swag draperies for all of the windows (simple stuff, just to soften the shades).

So here it is:

Details are often forgotten in four years LOL But let me try...

Lacanche Range
SubZero Fridge
Kitchen Aid Trash Compactor
Some freaking rediculous expensive german dishwasher (not our choice...was a last min swap because the KA was 1/2 an inch too big).
Cabinets are all custom in one way or another, Omega custom line. The banquette is built of cabinets, with all drawers and doors opening. You will see the open areas on the corners...we have doors for those but our cat uses one to sleep in and the dog the other so we left them off for now.

We reused the original 80's oak floor and had it stained an ebony color.

The granite is called Fred (I've forgotten the name....It think it was thunder wave but I'll have to check).

The tile backsplash is Statements Status Handmade Crackle Finish. They did a matched finish to my original granite and then my granite dealer went out of business and stole that granite so we had to find another with the same color to match the custom made tile LOL This is the story of our remodel :)

The chickens are an ebay purchase, framed in Nordic Black Antique, which is also on the custom designed hood (by me, inspired by another GW hood). the insert if a vent a hood which we had rebuilt by a stainless steel manufacturer to fit the odd ball size of a french range. They also made the counter tops for that run and we LOVE them.

Faucets are Systema by KWC (main sink) Franke (pot filler) and gad Delta for the prep sink? The main sink is a Franke professional sink that we had welded into the countertop. The counter (stainless) has modified marine edges (raised 1/8") to stop spills on the inset cabs.

Each cabinet on the base has a toe kick drawer. The uppers are all 15" deep and the lowers are 27" deep on the sink run.

The lighting was restored by me and came out of a barn in Iowa (or Idaho...somewhere with an I). It's 1913 vintage. The spots and upper and lower lighting was all new.

What have I forgotten? I don't know...oh the walls. They were done by an artist we used in several areas throughout the house. They are made of portland cement, cloves, cinnamon, maple syrup (i'm not kidding) mud and many other witch craft tricks he had up his kilt.

The kitchen table is an antique that my great grandfather made. I recently antiqued it back to antique looking :)

So here it is:
First some originals; We removed the soffits which contained 100 can lights as well as two support beams which held up the building. Much engineering was involved, as well as a significant amount of wine and beer in the removal of those beams.

To put the remodel time frame in context...My son during the bid submission phase (he didn't like the bids):

He's 4 and a half now LOL

It's a 1983 townhouse. Walls were moved a bit, doors widened, and we replaced the windows despite it being against the rules (they haven't noticed). We couldn't change any of the outside walls and basically the foot print of the kitchen stayed similar to what it was when it comes to walls inside and out.

Here are a few views of the's a small space, and overly well lit (due to the light reflecting off the snow outside on the lake) so some pics are worse than others:

As I look at things like this I think of more stuff.Knobs are Anne At Home from a few of her lines in antique pewter. (probably called the eclectic homeowner or KD on drugs line after my kitchen is seen). There are over 25 different knobs from the lines in the kitchen.

The glass in the cabs is from a stained glass manufacturer in a soft amber tone. Love the stuffwhile it shows lots of stuff with a flash camera on it, its pretty good at hiding messes in real life.

The cabinets are a natural cherry with a clear autumn glaze over them. The window trim is done in a custom color I made up which is basically a mix of very dark brown and black from Sherwin Williams.

The bench seating cost more than it should because three contractors did it and only one survived (each time it was ripped out and reorderedat our cost of course).

Here are some close ups. It wasnt easy given the odd angles involved. The final guy rocked and is permanently on staff LOL I adored him.

Hidden under the cabs are custom made vents to bring the air to the front of the cabs and seating when the HVAC outlet was covered. The vents are cherry (on the face) stained to match the cabs. The stainless routers were made by our custom stainless guys. I adore these guys.

My cab doors and drawers are called "beaded inset modified shaker"

The art is my ex-husbands grandmothers coffee grinder and medieval drawings of herbs.

this is a port hole I tripped over when I was 17 or sothe stainless guys turned it into a lazy suzan for the kitchen:

Photobucket is trying to make itself beautiful and being slower than molasses so Ill go ahead and post this as is and add more later if anyone cares for more details. But for nowIm done. Finally done with this freaking house! And ready to start the two new kitchens we have for the Victorian LOL I just cant give up this forum heh heh


clipped on: 06.22.2010 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2010 at 04:08 pm

RE: When planning a kitchen - words of wisdom (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: plllog on 01.09.2010 at 06:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

My best piece of advice, which probably isn't even in the Read Me, is this:

Get the very best contractor you can. Not the cheapest. Not the most famous. Just the best. Even if his bid is a lot higher than some of your others. If he's the best don't stint. It'll save you so much money, aggravation, time, aggravation, aggravation, worry, money, aggravation. You may think that this is something to balance with other things you want. It's NOT.

Get a contractor who pays his subs by the day. So that when they find something awful in the plumbing or electric that the previous owner did, they just fix it, instead of charging you more.

Get a contractor whose bid includes every little thing you mentioned, plus the things you didn't, like how many junction boxes will be needed, and if your electrical panel needs to be upgraded. That attention to detail will save you time, money, aggravation, money, aggravation, aggravation, stress, tears, liens, aggravation and money. My contractor had a job book on my remodel with all the details organized in page protectors before we even signed a contract. He said that was the only way he could keep track of the details of the scope of work and make sure his bid covered everything. He's foreign born and typed his bid. The (well recommended) American born English speakers scribbled and jotted and didn't bother with presentation. Again, attention to detail and pride in a job done right.

Get a contractor you can communicate well with. One who listens to, and is interested in, your ideas, and answers all your questions.

Get a contractor who is a good boss, whose crews want to work for him (her) and are trained to listen to and accommodate the homeowner. When there was a problem during the heavy construction and I ran out yelling, "Stop!" the contractor's guys stopped the subs. The subs listen only to their bosses. The contractor's crew listens to the homeowner. They're also quiet, polite, clean, tidy, and highly skilled.

Hire a contractor who is accustomed to command but who isn't bossy. That is, he can make vendors and subs listen to him, and do what he needs done, but doesn't push people around.

Hire the very best you can. If you live near me (SoCal) I can recommend mine, but he's not the only jewel in the sea. There are plenty. And I think it's worth trimming some of the wild notions and extravagant finishes to get this quality of workmanship, and the amazing lack of overruns and aggravation.


clipped on: 06.22.2010 at 12:23 am    last updated on: 06.22.2010 at 12:23 am

RE: When planning a kitchen - words of wisdom (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sweeby on 01.09.2010 at 12:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Great wisdom so far. Let me add a bit more.

One: Go through what you have now and give away or throw out the stuff you never use. How many coffee mugs do you have that you never use? How many cheapo spatulas that you'd only use if pigs flew? How many freebie koozies in the back of the drawer? How many mismatched plastic cups and plates you'd never use? How much lidless Tupperware? How many grody pots & pans leftover from your college days or Hubby's bachelor pad? Get that junk out of your soon-to-be-beautiful space! Use the 'Would I buy it at a garage sale?" test if you're not sure.

Two: Once you've thrown out the junk, inventory the stuff you have, and classify it by function and frequency of use. For example:
- One 36" drawer of daily use pots & pans,
- One 36" drawer of weekly/monthly use cookware,
- Two 24" shelves of every day china dishes,
- One 24" shelf of every day glassware,
- Two 36" shelves of fancy (Holiday) china and glassware.

Having this inventory is invaluable for planning your new space. Without it, you just won't know how much of what type of space you need, and you could end up with too little storage, or else sacrificing something you'd really like for storage space you didn't need. The security of knowing that 40% of your storage could actually go into a back room pantry (turkey roaster, lobster pot, espresso maker...) with hardly any loss of functionality gives you a huge amount of design flexibility.

Three: Prioritize lifestyle choices and preferences. Things like:
- One seat near the prep area so I can help Sonny with his homework while I cook dinner,
- Buffet zone for casual entertaining,
- Cozy seating area for two for morning coffee with Hubby,
- Open sight lines to the TV-watching area or PC so I can supervise the kids,
- Closed sight lines to the dining area so I don't have to see the mess while I eat!

This may sound crazy, but make a list of how your ideal kitchen will function, then rate the items on that list for how important they are to you. Which are deal-killers and which are 'nice to haves'? Also include what activities are daily and what are annual. There's an old adage in real estate: "Don't build the church for Easter Sunday." Apply that to your kitchen plan; plan for your maximum regular use, not for your maximum ever use.

You may not be able to get everything on your list (who can?), but at least you'll be able to choose wisely. By having my inventory and lifestyle choices, I was able to confidently choose the design that met 95% of my lifestyle wants and all of my storage needs over a design that offered much more storage and counter-top space but only 80% of my lifestyle list. Knowing that I didn't need more storage space got me a much better kitchen!


clipped on: 06.22.2010 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 06.22.2010 at 12:20 am

RE: Comment on Draft Kitchen Design (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: pence on 06.21.2010 at 11:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

remember to put a 9 or 12" cabinet between sink and DW so you can open Dw all the way without it hitting your legs. Personally, if it was my kitchen, i would want some stools at the center island bec I think if I'm cooking, people are going to come in there anyway instead of sitting way over a the raised bar, the raised bar might be better for serving meals and keeping people out of the kitchen at that time


clipped on: 06.21.2010 at 11:58 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2010 at 11:58 pm

RE: all kitchen appliances input wanted (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: ashebooks on 06.21.2010 at 07:56 pm in Appliances Forum

Are you actually a serious cook or just looking to build a show kitchen.

My Bosch dishwasher is 13 years old, silent and never a repair. Don't even consider a 2 drawer Fisher-Paykel dishwasher they have terrible repair record.

Sub Zero has one of the worst repair records in the industry.

The finest rerfridgerator I've ever owned is my French Door Samsung. Temeperature holding is absolutely perfect both refridgerator and freezer. They even make a thin wall 29 cu ft model

Skip the counter depth refridgerators and the side-by-side ones. Storage is not good, particularly if you do a lot of entertaining. Want counter depth look then have your contractor do the following.

On the wall where your refridgerator will go, have the base cabinets pulled out i.e. installed away from the wall. Not only will your countertop cover this, it will allow you to have a variety of appliance garages and still have full depth set downs.

If you are a serious cook consider a commercial size undermount single sink. Mine will hold a 20 quart stock pot and standing just a few feet away it isn't even visable.

Don't bank all you major appliances together. You should have set down space both left and right of stove, sink, ovens, refridgerator, etc.

Forget the cooktop pot filler. It's a total waste. Sure you can fill the pot at the cooktop. but you're still going to have to carry the full pot to the sink. Better to plan your sink and cooktop so that you can simply drag a full pot to the sink.

You might want to consider the BX 280 - 30" double convection oven the doors open like a cupboard door rather than drop down

Seriously consider a Magnetic Induction cooktop. Cooks like gas but is electric.

Or consider a fivestar cooktop with 21,000 btu burners. Just make sure to order the matching backsplash, and vent hood to match. This last piece of advice applies to all commercial type cooktop/ranges

Cooktop placement - if you are a serious cook then you want to place it on an outside wall for maximum ventilation. And your vent hood filters should be able to go into the dishwasher for cleaning.

Kitchen Island - make sure you have electric outlets placed conveniently. If you do lots of baking a lift up appliance shelf will hold your KitchenAid mixer and easily lift up when needed. Also as applies to baking, consider have your island several inches lower than your counter tops. Easier for kneeding and rolling out and you won't need special chairs to accomodate higher counter tops

Hope you find some of this helful



Ask Pamela about KitchenAid mixer stand for island. Spec power on all four sides with Jon.

"Pulling base cabinets away from the walls," does this equal wider (30") countertops?

clipped on: 06.21.2010 at 10:44 pm    last updated on: 06.21.2010 at 10:46 pm