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RE: Granite recommendations in NYC area? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: mad_p67 on 04.29.2007 at 10:36 am in Kitchens Forum

I have one that I can personally recommend. They've been in business since 1987 when they started out in Queens. I used them for my previous kitchen remodel a few years ago. Since then, they moved out to New Hyde Park.

Renaissance Marble Works
1850 Imperial Avenue
New Hyde Park, NY 11040
516 326 3288

There are two others that I will probably be visiting this week. They're out in Brooklyn and accessible by train. I got this recommendation from someone that used them last month for her kitchen remodel. Since I don't own a car, I'll be visiting during my lunch hour from work.

L&B Fine Home Improvement
360 hamilton Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11231
718 852 0343
Mon-Fri 9-6pm
Sat 10-4pm
F Train to Smith & 9th Street

Classic Tile NY
1635 86th Street
Brooklyn, NY 11214
718 331 1242 or 718 331 2615
M,T,W,F 7:30 - 5:45
Thurs 7:30-7:30pm
Sat 7:30 - 3:45pm
D Train to 18th Ave.

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clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 12:01 am    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 12:01 am

RE: Steel Garage Door Brands (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: doorguy06 on 04.20.2007 at 11:55 pm in Garages/Workshops Forum

I looked at the web site. The door has 3 struts, this is good. However, it did not have the opener bracket I was talking about. Double sided steel doors have a special bracket in which you connect the opener arm to the door with. I would insist this bracket be installed.

The opener is a Liftmaster 3280 with the name Raynor on it. It is a good opener. It is one step down from the 2500 your were talking about. ( otherwise known as the 3850 now ). You mentioned two doors I am assuming the $1250.00 is for one door and opener for a total of $2500.00 all together. This is a great deal. If the $1250.00 is for both door and openers then that is un heard of.

Make sure they give you the operator brackets and make sure it comes with 3 struts as advertised and you will be fine for that price.

Another tip: Nylon rollers will be quieter than steel. Are they giving you Nylon?

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clipped on: 04.24.2007 at 10:53 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2007 at 10:53 pm

RE: Bed/Mattress questions (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: silentlyscreaming on 10.04.2006 at 08:19 pm in Furniture Forum

If you want to read up on mattresses, check out www.mattress-tips.com soon.
Lots of articles on the various type of mattresses available, and what their pro's and con's are...

Here is a link that might be useful: Mattress Tips

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clipped on: 04.24.2007 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2007 at 10:14 pm

RE: Bed/Mattress questions (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Alisande on 07.02.2005 at 08:13 pm in Furniture Forum

The link below will take you to an excellent mattress forum. You'll get a lot of answers there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mattress message board

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clipped on: 04.24.2007 at 10:13 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2007 at 10:13 pm

Best leather sofa for 1/2 the cost

posted by: sebyt on 04.24.2007 at 08:25 pm in Furniture Forum

I recently bought a sofas set from www.barileathefurniture.com and it is amazing. The set is all leather (no split hides), solid hard wood frames and hopefully will last me a good 20 to 30 years.

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clipped on: 04.24.2007 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2007 at 09:27 pm

RE: Bosch Nexxt 500 pair, w/floodsaver pan on platform, 2nd floor (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: greenfumbers4fowbers on 02.15.2007 at 12:26 am in Laundry Room Forum

Well, at long last... I'm back with "nearly finished" pictures! I do have a slight vibration problem, because, as it turns out, the position of the washer and dryer are right smack in the middle of the span of the floor joists. There was simply no other way to do this 2nd floor laundry. I've ordered, and received, a set of ShakeAway pads for front load washers from Kellett Enterprises. This weekend, when I have an assistant available, I'll install them under the washer. I had to have the Lowes team out twice to get the machine properly leveled.

One concern... they tipped the washer nearly 45 degrees forward, and then back in order to reach the feet. There were exceedingly gentle about doing it, but I wonder now whether that's what's causing my vibration experience. Even with this situation, I'm otherwise completely ecstatic about my laundry area and about these machines.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

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clipped on: 04.22.2007 at 10:22 am    last updated on: 04.22.2007 at 10:22 am

RE: Bosch Nexxt/Siemens Washer & Dryer - Part 9 (Follow-Up #47)

posted by: twocats_wy on 03.01.2006 at 06:51 pm in Laundry Room Forum

FYI, I was on the Bosch USA website today & saw there's an offer of a US$75-100 manufacturer rebate on Nexxt washer + dryer pair purchases between Feb. 26 & April 8.....

Here is a link that might be useful: Bosch Energy Star Rebate

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clipped on: 04.22.2007 at 10:21 am    last updated on: 04.22.2007 at 10:21 am

RE: what & where on dimmable CFL? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dallasbill on 01.18.2007 at 11:45 am in Lighting Forum

Let's clarify those remarks, because it's a bit of a sweeping generalization.

Due to the position of CFL bulbs in recessed fixtures, the ballast runs hotter than in most other applications. This may shorten the life of the CFL bulb and/or reduce the amount of light output over time. Key word being may. The average CFL bulb life will still last longer than standard reflector bulbs.

See CFL FAQ here.

If you want the new R-CFL rated floods for enclosures, you can find the latest manuf. list here.

And FWIW, we have had no issues for the past year with our Greenlite R40 floods in sealed ceiling cans. Nor with the GE's in the downward pointing bathroom sconces.

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clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 11:04 pm

RE: what & where on dimmable CFL? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: davidr on 01.16.2007 at 04:18 pm in Lighting Forum

I haven't traded with them, but 1000bulbs.com seem to have a pretty substantial catalog of dimmables at reasonable prices.

Color temperature is a bit confusing in that the higher the color temperature, the cooler the light. For what most people would call a warm color, look for color temperatures of 3000K or less.

The most common CT for compact fluorescents is 2700K. For comparison, most incandescents are in the 2700K-2900K range, depending on wattage. Halogen incandescents are a bit higher.

Daylight fluorescents are usually 5600K or 6500K. These are very icy and bluish. "Cool white," the ubiquitous dreary color of office fluorescents and generic hardware store replacements, is typically 4100K.

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clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 11:00 pm

RE: Energy efficient AND easy on the eye living room lighting (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jon1270 on 01.27.2007 at 04:54 pm in Lighting Forum

Last question first: no, low-voltage lights are not especially efficient. The lowered voltage is traded for increased amperage to achieve the same wattage, which is the real measure of power consumption.

That said, "easy on the eyes" generally means indirect lighting; you don't want to see the bulb, you don't want there to be extremely bright spots anywhere in your field of vision. Achieving that means that you use fixtures that bounce the light off of room surfaces, such as cove lighting illuminating the ceiling, or track or other aimable lighting pointed at the walls, artwork, etc. Depending on what your walls and ceiling are made of or what color they're painted, they will absorb some amount of the light rather than reflecting it back out into the room, so you need to generate enough light that the amount bounced out into the room is sufficient. Fortunately the living room probably doesn't need extremely bright ambient light.

There aren't a lot of good alternatives to fluorescent for doing this efficiently. Fortunately fluorescents have come a long way, and don't deserve the bad rap they get from people who developed prejudices based on older technology. Older fluorescents used magnetic ballasts that cycled on a relatively low frequency, causing flicker that many people could see and found uncomfortable. Most newer fluorescent fixtures have electronic ballasts which cycle at a much higher frequency so the flicker, while technically still there, is so fast that almost nobody can see it. The other reason fluorescents get a bad rap is that older bulbs, and the cheaper bulbs sold today, have really lousy color resolution, making it hard to tell one color from another, which also makes your eyes have to work harder. There are now much better bulbs available, the best of them coming very close to the quality of incandescent sources. They're also available in a wide range of color temperatures, to suit many tastes.

There are two significant things fluorescents still don't do well. Very few of them can be dimmed economically, and they are by nature diffuse so they can't be focussed into a tight spotlight-like beam the way incandescents can.

My suggestion would be to look for ways to use fluorescents for indirect ambient lighting, and supplement that with some table lamps and/or small halogen spotlights (recessed, track, etc.) for reading and accent lighting.

That's the background theory. I'm not, unfortunately, all that well-versed in particular fixture choices.

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clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 10:13 pm

My favorite lighting links

posted by: jon1270 on 11.15.2006 at 08:13 am in Lighting Forum

Since I set about planning the lighting for my recent kitchen remodel I've spent a lot of time reading everything I could find on lighting design. It's been a bit of an obsession. Anyhow, I thought it might be appropriate to share the better online lighting design resources I've found.

Lighting Design Lab has all sorts of good stuff, including an Articles page with stuff like Eric Strandberg's Residential Ramblings.

Randall Whitehead's Top 10 Lighting Tips are worth looking at. His is the best of the lighting books I've read.

This site has another nice selection of short articles on general lighting design.

The California Lighting Technology Center at U.C. Davis has resources that focus on energy-efficient lighting, including the very nice Title 24 Residential Lighting Design Guide

If you're confused by some of the terminology, this lighting glossary might help.

Lastly, I found this PDF on Reflector lamp photometrics very helpful when learning to understand the most important properties of the bulbs used in the ubiquitous recessed can.

I hope these are useful!

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clipped on: 04.15.2007 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 04.15.2007 at 10:12 pm