Also, there is another book that I found recommended on the Landscaping forum and it's become my bible.
Designing Your Gardens and Landscapes: 12 Simple Steps for Successful Planning by Janet Macunovich

here's a link to it on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580173152/104-4070164-3758305?v=glance&n=283155&n=507846&s=books&v=glance

Here is a link that might be useful: Some good reading

It's important to put the rug outside in a protected unheated location for several hours or overnight so that the rug is the same temperature as the snow.

The best time to do this is when it's quite cold and dry out. The snow should be dry, not soggy.

Rather than rubbing the face of the rug with snow, place it face down on an area of clean snow and use a broom or the back of a rake to beat it lightly but vigorously. You want to create a lot of vibration without mashing the rug down into the snow.

When you're tired of beating the rug, flip it over and you'll be *amazed* at how much dirt was left behind. You can start with a thoroughly vacuumed rug and still get amazing amounts of dirt and broken off wool fibres out of it (the dirt cuts the wool fibres--up to half the dirt you get out of a wool rug is actually broken fibres).

Flip off the excess snow either by very gently shaking it or by holding it up while someone else beats the back. If you shake the rug, don't be like boys in a locker room! The shaking motion should barely move the rug, just enough motion to make it shimmy gently. Hard flipping can actually damage the rug.

Move the rug to a clean spot and repeat.

When you've run out of energy or run out of clean snow, hold up the rug and have someone gently beat the back of it to get as much snow as possible out of it.

Take it back to the protected area and lay it out to let the rest of the snow sublimate out of the rug. Sublimation refers to a process that a substance goes through when it turns from a solid (snow) to a vapor (ice) without going through a liquid phase. This only happens in cold, dry weather.

Take the rug back in the house and let it warm up to room temperature before you reposition it.

It will look beautiful Somehow the dry snow treatment intensifies the colours and makes the rug look brand new again.

I should qualify these lessons by saying that I put them together for a cousin who is about to build a home. And our home is large (7,100 sq. ft.) with lots of goodies (four dishwashers!) and it was built without any significant cost constraints. Still, most of the lessons we learned will apply irrespective of your budget or the size of your house.

Sorry for the lengthy post but those of you who are going through this know that there's lots to learn and in that respect, I've hardly scratched the surface.

1) HVAC:
a) With a 30 degree differential between high and low summer temperatures, a whole house fan may make a lot of sense. Buy fixed-pane windows for all but those windows that you'd open to accommodate the whole house fan. They're cheaper and provide better insulation than openable windows. Another alternative is that some newer A/C units have an exterior temperature sensor and they open a damper to suck in cool outside air in the evening rather than running the condenser, thereby cutting electricity use.
b) If you establish zones for a given forced air heater/air conditioner (i.e., two thermostats for one unit for control of two different areas of the house), make sure that split of the total area of the ducts feeding the two zones is no more extreme than 60/40.
c) Consider radiant heating for several reasons:
i) Keeps warmest temperatures close to the floor which saves money and/or increases comfort (especially important if you have high ceilings)
ii) Important for keeping your extremities warm, since your circulation deteriorates as you age.
iii) Noiseless.
iv) Permits room-by-room zoning (thermostat in each room) which saves money and allows you to have, for example, a cool exercise room next to a warm family room.
v) Stone or tile floors are toasty on bare feet in the winter; they’re cold with forced air systems, encouraging you to keep the thermostat set higher.
d) If you install radiant heating, make sure the pad under your carpet is "slab foam rubber", not polyurethane, fiber or rebond. It has the lowest R-value of any pad and may be difficult to find but it's worth it. The R-value of your carpet is surprisingly of little consequence.

2) Electrical/Lighting/Audio/Video/Internet:
a) If you don't install home-run wiring with programmable switches, then spend LOTS of time examining the location of lights and switches before construction begins because it's very expensive to change them after completion.
b) Consider wiring for picture lights (e.g., Joshua lights) during construction.
c) Consider outlets under the eaves for Xmas lights, all running to a single switch.
d) Don't forget wiring AND switches (unless you'll want them on timers) for exterior lights. Determine whether you'll use low-voltage or 110 volt; low voltage is much cheaper to install and maintain but 110 volt offers more dramatic effects on large trees, rocks, facades.
e) Determine your ISP and run wires accordingly. For instance, if you'll be using a cable modem, define where it will be located and run Cat-5 or Cat-6 wiring from there to all locations where you'll want connectivity. Include the kitchen, even if you don't initially plan on locating a computer station there.
f) Put four-plug outlets and light switches on either side of the bed in the master bedroom.
g) Run TV cable wire (RG-6) between rooms that may share a DVD or TiVo box or create a location for a hub and have all wires radiate from there.
h) If you install a satellite dish, determine its location before construction so wiring can be run accordingly.
i) Put a four-plug outlet under the kitchen sink (garbage disposal, hot water, dishwasher, et al).
j) Install door-activated switches to turn on a light in the entry closet and elsewhere.
k) Get at least one estimate for a full audio/video system throughout the house. Even if you have no intention of installing it, the estimate will give you some ideas for installing wiring and capabilities that you may want to have if/when you get HDTV or other forthcoming technologies.
l) Consider an intercom system if your floor plan is spread out. And if you don't get one, identify the number and location of doorbells that will ensure you'll know someone's at the front door wherever you are.
m) Under-cabinet lighting is both efficient and aesthetically pleasing. Think about it for upper cabinets in the laundry room and garage in addition to the kitchen.
n) Install an astrological timer for exterior lights that automatically adjusts sunset/sunrise for your latitude.
o) Install outlets in the floor where furniture placement is certain and outlets will be needed for table lamps.
p) Ensure that any wall outlets controlled by wall switches have one of the outlets that's always hot, enabling to you bypass the wall switch if you change your mind.
q) Ensure that circuit breakers are all clearly labeled.

3) Foundation/Framing/Roofing/Insulation
a) Specify closer spacing on floor joists than required by code to ensure a quiet and stable floor surface and to avoid cracks in tile.
b) Insulate all interior walls wherever sound attenuation will be beneficial.
c) Take photos or movies of all walls and ceilings after electrical and plumbing but before insulation and sheetrock.

4) Cabinetry/Doors/Windows/Hardware
a) Specify lever door handles rather than knobs; they're easier to open when your hands are full and when you become arthritic (what a happy thought!).
b) Get full-extension drawers throughout.
c) Put drawers instead of cabinet doors in lower cabinets to minimize stooping and reaching.
d) Use drawers instead of pull-outs (sliding drawers behind cabinet doors) unless a) you like "the look" of cabinet doors or b) you anticipate a need to adjust the height of the drawers at some point. Pull-outs are unnecessarily inconvenient (open two doors completely before pulling out drawer).
e) Frameless cabinets offer 10-15% more storage space than face frame cabinets.
f) Don't buy hollow-core doors…period.
g) Make sure that the width of doors will accommodate wheelchair access.
h) Examine door swings on the floor plan after penciling in furniture to ensure clearance.
i) Consider advantages and disadvantages of various openable window types. We chose mostly casement windows because screens can be on the inside for both aesthetic reasons and cleanliness. Pella offers roll-up screens; maybe others do also.
j) True divided light windows offer a realistic aesthetic but are much more work to clean.
k) Finalize all appliance selections before cabinet design begins to ensure fit and clearances. Supply specs to cabinet maker.

5) Plumbing
a) Test-drive tubs and toilets to ensure a comfortable fit. Wide tubs, while cool-looking, don't offer arm support. Whirlpool tubs typically require regular maintenance to remove stagnating water from the pipes.
b) Get a tub faucet set which includes a sprayer on the end of a hose; facilitates cleaning the tub as well as washing off the soap after soaking.
c) Check Consumer Reports for toilets that really flush.
d) Ensure that the handle spread, reach and placement of faucets are matched to the size of the sink and any pre-drilled holes.
e) Install water circulating pumps and plumbing if some faucets will be a substantial distance from the water heater.
f) Verify clearances if you intend to install long-bowl toilets.
g) Install hot water and soap dispensers in kitchen sink. Check to see if tap water will require filtration and install as appropriate.
h) Determine the location of hose bibs and sprinkler valves. Consider running oversized piping direct from the street for these to ensure higher pressure and volume (which allows more sprinkler heads/valve).
i) Drop the floor height under the master shower pan to enable the shower floor to be at/below floor level. This will simplify conversion to wheelchair access if necessary.
j) Install 36" high counters in the master bath rather than traditional height; reduces bending when washing your face.
k) Specify the height for shower pipe stub-out; typical height is too low. Some heads are height-adjustable, too.
l) Include shampoo/soap cubbies built into the shower walls; consider placement for aesthetics and avoiding path of shower spray.
m) Before pouring walkways, driveways and patios, lay down multiple 4" pipes to run under them to facilitate installation of irrigation and outdoor lighting…and record where they are!
n) Ensure that all downspouts and run-off catch basins are carried to the street or storm drain system.
o) Record the locations of all sewage cleanouts.

6) Miscellaneous
a) Ensure that mailbox height and placement meets USPS requirements.
b) Verify space for turning radius to get vehicles into garage. Single car garage doors must be at least 9' wide. Driveways with any turns should be a minimum of 16' wide.
c) Plan for the maximum amount of storage space that you can ever imagine needing…and then double it.

Hope you find some of these ideas to be helpful. If anything is unclear, reply and I'll try to explain things better.

Bob

SECTION 510--COOKING UNIT CLEARANCE

510.1 Minimum Vertical Clearance. There shall be a minimum vertical clearance of not less than 30 inches between the cooking top of domestic oil, gas, and electric ranges and the underside of unprotected combustible material above such ranges. When the underside of such combustible material is protected with insulating millboard at least 1/4 inch thick covered with sheet metal of not less than 0.021-inch thickness (No. 28 U.S. gauge) or a metal ventilating hood, the distance shall be not less than 24 inches.

In my town (in MA ) it read like this

780 CMR 3618.3 INSTALLATION OF MICROWAVE OVENS

3618.3.1 Installation of microwave oven over a cooking appliance: The installation of a listed and labeled cooking appliance or microwave oven over a listed and labeled cooking appliance shall conform to the terms of the upper appliance's listing and label and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

it does not appear that your cirty ahs anything regarding microwaves. You may be able to ask for a variance. I would try going to the planning board with the MW's install sheet and maybe check the other town's/ islands in HI to see if they do.

24 inches seems too high. You may even want to look into disabilities acts for varainces. Good Luck

The huge Master walk in -- 10' X 9 ' cost about $3800; the odd=shaped coat closet - 3.5' X 10' - cost about $900 (both in stained finish) and the cute, adjustable-shelf kitchen pantry in white was under $400.

If you use them, ask for Luis Perez at extension 171 -- I am not his girlfriend or business manager -- just a satisfied customer.

(Confession: my contractor installed them, not me, so I can't speak to ease but it took him no time...)

A telling factor - I seldom see farms around here with gate openers that are NOT actually using them. That seems to me to indicate that the things are reliable!

You can get better prices on the Mighty Mule openers through Tractor Supply, by the way.

DH insists that we get one but I am holding off until the construction is complete.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mighty Mule Gate Openers

Therefore, you may want to use pre-stain wood conditioner and maybe even Gel stain to hide the glue lines and the difference in the colors of the boards. I like the products that a small company called General Finishes makes for small projetcs like this that have to be done just right.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes

Install Note: I can recommend not final taping "anything" till you've put the whole run together, and to do that easier..."bolt" the lower tube to your ceiling with nuts/washers (do not use the provided "screws" that will fail the drywall in minutes by the weight of the tubing alone during setup. Use pieces of painters tape to fashion the tubes and do a complete mockup, then pencil mark the joints and positions of everything so you know where everything did align when you disassemble for final finished foil taping/screwing.
SolaTube has Raybender "Fresnel" feature on the dome to bend light down the tube, and a south faced (user positioned) deflector to do the same. My wife points out that to her...the light appears blue weighted a bit, which is probably true, due to the UV being removed to prevent fading of interiors. I'm sure a new "needed" room color could return the missing spectrum. Oh...on that note, remember that the light you get from these is very intense. It will highlight any room flaws quite visibly (wife home when sun came out once).

I am truly stunned at how well water and a microfiber cloth cleans!

As far as types of porcelain tile, I purchased the Crossville tile ($11/sf locally, $6.50/sf through FastFloors) and a $3/sf tile from Lowes. One is for a powder room and the other is for the laundry room. The $3/sf tile is actually thicker than the $11/sf tile, and both have the color going all of the way through them. However, the $11/sf tile just seems to be more precisely made, cleaner edges, tighter "graining". The coloring is also fantastic on the Crossville. I think the polished tile is going to look just like marble, but it should be much tougher to crack.

beverly27's comment on the "stamped on" pattern with the white border is something that I never thought about, but always perceived, when looking at cheaper tile. Her comment on the bullnose/edge pieces is something to keep in mind. I couldn't justify paying the outrageous cost for the Crossville bullnose, so I bought a nice wet saw and polishing stone and plan to make my own. Let's see. $6/ea. for a 3" x 14" bullnose, or $3.99/sf for a 14"x14" tile that can be cut into 4 bullnoses per tile, or less than $1.50 per 14" piece. For 20+ bullnoses, that will save me over $90.00. However, you may want to see what options a tile has for bullnose, corners, decorations, etc.

If you are looking for a colorful $4/sf porcelain tile, consider the Crossville Color Blox series. It is just beautiful! I didn't get that (using the Empire series in the powder room), but considered it for the laundry room. It's actually just too pretty to put in a laundry room. If I redo our enclosed back patio, I will definately be putting the Color Blox tile in. It looks like suede on your floor.
:)

If you have any question, look on the boxes-- not at the printed labels, but at the number that's been STAMPED on the boxes. They should all match. If there's even one number different, you have two different lots.

Here is a link that might be useful: Using grout colorant

SmartStrand made with DuPont Sorona polymer is exclusive to Mohawk. The polymer is made by DuPont in pellet form (about the size of a bb) and the fiber and carpets are produced by Mohawk. DuPont's trademark for the chemical type is 3GT, but the structure is chemically identical to PTT polymer. Shell/PTT PolyCanada also manufactures PTT which Mohawk uses as well.

DuPont has been making polymers for decades. We have them to thank for Kevlar, nylon, Stainmaster and many other household names. We now have them to thank for Sorona. This polymer is naturally stain resistant. The protection will never wash off or wear-off. You might not be aware that many carpets - and all nylon carpets - have a stain chemical added to them. That resistance will diminish over time and with recommended cleanings. SmartStrand with Sorona doesn't need a chemical added.

The floor performance is as good as - if not better than -nylon in similar carpets. There is no issue with traffic resilance as mentioned in an earlier post - this is the primary improvement over PET. The wear characteristics are great.

This is NOT PET polymer as was posted earlier. PET carpets can be made from recycled soda bottles or from new polymer - Mohawk does both, but the majority is recycled (over 2 billion bottles a year!)

Another note on the DuPont technology and why they have attempted to seperate themselves a bit from PTT as a whole - they have developed a process by which about 40-50% of the total polymer can be sugar based. The source of the sugar will be corn. Mohawk expects to have all its carpet converted to the renewable resouce based polymer by the second half of 2007.

This is the best choice in carpeting today. For those wary of something new - It was introduced in 2005, so it has had some time in the market - but it was in development for years prior to introduction. These carpets can be found at over 6000 retail outlets and also the Home Depot.

Our ledge is technically not exactly perpendicular, like yours, but rather across from the catty-cornered seat.

In most cases, wall sconces work best in conjunction with other lights rather than as the primary light source for a room. They work well for ambient light but are insufficient for specific tasks, such as reading.

Install sconces 72 to 78 inches high. Any lower, and you will bump into them; any higher, and they will seem designed to light the ceiling rather than the room. A few sconces go a long way, so keep them spaced more than 6 feet from each other.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sconces

The real risk is in using less recognized brand names or no-name Chinese imports--the big guys won't cut corners in order to make a buck.

Hope that helps!

This process is fun and frustrating (we have just FINALLY started actual construction on the house)....I am sure mistakes will be made on my part...so we'll see.

Goodluck

1. Here's the HOLIDAY ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Outlets under roof eaves for Christmas lights
(and place them on switches for easy on/off at the front porch).

If you have a gable-style roof, place an outlet near
the top peak so there's a place to plug-in the Christmas Star.

Outlets under inside of front windows for 'candle' lights
(and place them on switches as well).

Where are you going to put your Christmas tree?
Place an outlet in that corner controlled by a switch!

Place two outlets on either side of front entryway for Christmas lights.

Is there a fireplace in your new home?
Place an outlet on the mantel for decor items!

Is there a main staircase in your new home?

Place an outlet at front of the side base for a lighted garland up the staircase.

Over the kitchen cabinets (if they are open to the ceiling), place an outlet so you can plug-in Christmas lights to highlight decor. In this way, you don't actually see the wires...just the glow.

Is there a wrap-around porch on your new home?

Include multiple outlets around perimeter for seasonal lighting decor.

Place exterior outlets along driveway and access point on main arterial.

2. Here's the exterior LANDSCAPE ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Place outlets strategically in yard for electrical mower or weed eater.

Allow electrical runs for 'future' buildings or storage sheds, as well as possible motor home hook-ups.

Place outlets on every exterior wall for landscape lighting or yard work.

Don't forget to provide electrical package for cooking and barbecue area (and, place it adjacent to the gas supply line).

Include outdoor lighting for stairs, steps and walkways.

Will there be a gazebo in your landscape?
Be sure to design an electrical package for this area!

If you're including a fountain, spa, pool, wading, or hot tub...be certain to remember electrical service for pumps, lights and outlets.

Include electrical service for future shop or work area.

And, what would any garden be without accent lights and fixtures?

3. Here's the interior UTILITY ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Place several outlets inside walk-in closets for charging...batteries, pagers, cell phones, cordless flashlights...and those worthless, every-home-has-one, dust busters!

Place an outlet adjacent to telephone jacks for caller ID boxand your cordless telephone base.

In the kitchen, don't forget about the GFI outlet under the sinkfor the instant hot water dispenser and garbage disposal...easier to add now if you think you might want them.

In kitchen walls, place outlets for under- or in-cabinet lighting.

In the laundry room, provide electrical service for clothes iron (and, don't forget service for a built-in ironing board with a light).

Don't forget wiring and supports for ceiling fans.

Should radiant floor heat be incorporated into your new home, be sure to include electrical service for this system.

Will a jetted tub be included in your new bathroom?
Be certain to place an outlet for the pump in the correct location!

Place outlets in the hallway and entryway.

Sometimes it's hard to find a place to plug in the vacuum cleaner.

If you are putting in a security system or intercom
(or are just pre-wiring), be sure to provide
electrical service to these areas.

Closely related: Run two cat5e (or cat6)
and two (paired) shielded coax lines (RG-6 not RG-59)
to each room of the house, coming from a central wiring box.

Place outlets in garage where car will be parked for a car battery charger.

Also, include outlets at workbench height for power tools
(check amperage requirements of tools & equipment).

Install a whole-house surge suppressor in your main breaker box.

In the attic and crawl space entries, place outlets near the access hatches.

This will be useful for a light and to plug-in an extension cord!

If your new home is located in an area where power-loss frequently occurs, be certain to install a sub-panel for electrical generator, or a future alternative energy source.

Think Ahead: place conduit in the ground to accommodate future el runs.

4. Here's the LIFESTYLE ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

During the design process, review your floor plan using your furniture layout. Think about the lifestyle you want to create within the homestyle.

During the build process, do a walk-thru as soon as possible.

Re-think your electrical layout. Measure. Measure. Measure.

Mark locations of cabinets and furniture.

Define your electrical services based lifestyle needs.

Place outlets and switches in locations that are convenient for you.

Remember: Too many switches in one area looks ugly.

Place lighting fixtures in locations that will benefit your lifestyle.

Be sure your electrical contractor reviews electrical layout with you.

The National Electrical Code determines minimum requirements, and you'll want to meet this standard while also addressing your needs.

If your ground floor is a concrete slab-on-grade,
be absolutely certain of your cabinet and furniture locations so the electrical service layout serves you best!

For furniture placed in the middle of a room,
place outlets and fixtures directly above or below exact location.

This includes the locations of chandeliers, table lamps, or reading lights.

Don't rely on anyone else to fully consider your lifestyle...prior to concrete pouring or final framing, be certain to layout your home based on electrical service required for your lifestyle and homestyle.

Place outlets on both ends of the kitchen island.

Place outlets in convenient locations at bathroom vanity,
especially if there's a 'his & hers' side (off the sink counter and out-of-site is always nice).

For a home office, fully consider computer, scanner, printer, answering machine, lamps, chargers, radios...need I say more?

For an entertainment center, include 2 quad outlets on center of that wall!

Do you need a plug-in for a laptop computer? Where?

Where your TV is located, don't forget the DVD, VCR, CD...
what else did I forget?...oh, yeah...satellite receiver?

In a bedroom, don't underestimate the number of plug-ins at your bed stand: alarm clock, cordless phone, lamps. A quad outlet may be needed.

In hallways, place small, theater-style foot lighting in the walls at knee level controlled by a switch outside each bedroom doorway (a great idea for getting up in the middle of the night, teenagers coming home late, or subtle mood lighting for a party).

Consider every room in terms of its current and future use...what is now a kid's bedroom, may become a home office or exercise room.

It's a lot cheaper and easier to place wiring now rather than later!

If you intend to include an exercise room, what are the equipment needs?

Consult with your vendor for security or audio system to determine low-volt requirements.

For a luxury home, you may want a plug-in for heated towel rack in bathroom (if you think you may want one now or in the future).

Okay...that's it...make sure to consider cost of adding outlets, switches and fixtures because it sure adds up fast
when you're using a licensed contractor.

Your electrician should do a walk thru with you
discussing any particular needs you may have.

BUT...do remember: each item beyond the standard,
code required installation, is an EXTRA.

220 in my closet for a tanning bed
lighting in all niches
outlets in mantles
switches for gas fireplace starters
outlets in cabs for chargeables
did double tv/phone wiring in bedrooms to allow for flexibility in furniture placement
wired for plasmas above 2 fireplaces
wired for under cab, drop-down, flat screens in kitchen and craft room
tv behind mirror in master bath
telephone in master bath toilet room--yep, real excited about that one (where's that eye-rolling smiley?--lol)
built-in ironing boards in laundry and master closet
low lighting at stairs
ceiling fans outside
floor outlets in den and study
phone in garage

There are so many cool things that can be done!

Here is a link that might be useful: porcelain shower niches

Liz--My decorator was also my kitchen designer, and mine was her first Wood-mode kitchen. She made several mistakes which means I have to wait WEEKS to get my cabinets completely done. This has been my Wood-mode frustration. My cabinets are beautiful, but if I had it to do over again--I would have gone with the local custom cabinet maker who did my built ins and mantels. I would have gotten beautiful cabinets at about 2/3 of the price--and without the long wait for a replacement if something is not right.

John--My house is "Oak Hill Lane" by Spitzmiller & Norris--with some minor changes. They have a nice website, but I found my plan on the Southern Living site.

amm- the countertop is "Tropic Brown". Neutral and easy to keep clean.

Bichonfriz--It will take a while to fill my house, since everything I own was ruined in a fire. I do have new furniture though :) We sent back those black railings. They did not look right with the white trim on the house. We went with "Old South"--aluminum like the columns on the front. We used the Federal style. The top of the railing is 42"--important since I still have small children. I'll get a pic for you as soon as it warms up a little.

Thanks all--and I am so happy to be in our new house. For all of you in the process, hang tough--it will be over with and sooner than you think :)

You'll get lots of opinions for and against compact fluorescents--IMO, they're good for some things and not others.

As far as the housings you already purchased, it will be better for you to place the cans before drywall. Removal and patching will be more expensive both in time and materials. If you are worried about the placement, I suggest you get remodel housings, which are designed to fit into a pre-cut hole in the drywall after it's up.

The link below gives a well-rounded basic "education" on lighting types and sources for the home, and how to determine what's right for you. The site also gives some rules of thumb for placement and fixture appropriateness, as well as energy usage conversions from incandescent to fluorescent.

Here is a link that might be useful: ALA Website

I would think the lighted ceiling fan is a bad idea. When you have a light in the middle of the room and counters around the outside, your body inevitably casts shadows over whatever area of counter you're working at. The lights on a ceiling fan inevitably hang lower than other surface-mount fixtures, making those shadows even larger.

I think it's a mistake to think that the lights over the sink, in the range hood and spill from the pendants will eliminate the need for cans along the sink wall. For one thing, that would mean you'd be running to several spots in the room, flipping all sorts of switches just to get minimal light. The beauty of having several kinds of light sources is flexibility; don't plan on having them all on at once. I'd put the pendants on one switch, the sink lights on another, the UC lights on yet another. I'd think of the other cans as general lighting, putting them on one or two switches near the door. Much of the light from the perimiter cans will bounce off the cabinets and reflect out into the room.

Maybe something like this?

Here's a before shot - you can see the bulbs glaring in your eyes in this photo.

Here's the after shot with the new trims. Note that the lights are on in this photo, but you can't tell! The colors in the kitchen really pop now, and the lights are significantly brighter - I need to install a dimmer now. The only downside is that the quality of the light seems more directed and less difuse, leading to some slight shadows that I never noticed before; this may be due simply to the fact that the lights are so much brighter and might go away when I install a dimmer.

Here's an in-between shot. All the lights are on, but you can only tell with the three trims that haven't yet been replaced. BTW, I was sweating bullets (worrying about my granite cracking) when he had to get up on a ladder on my island. I put down some 3/4" plywood and kept a sharp watch to make sure he didn't stand or put the ladder over the overhang.

In fact, if you were to put a black baffle (the ridged type) trim next to a clear Alzak trim, the amount of light reflected off the sides of the trim would be about the same. Here's a picture of a hallway illuminated with black Alzak (all the lights are on--there are 3):

without flash:

with flash:

I also have become against halogen. Xenon is the new way to go. Almost the same light, no transformers (if you want), dimmable, and much less heat.

Best bet IMO, 6" R30 cans around the cabinet layout, aprox. 22" off the WALL (not cabinet face), and xenon undercabinet lighting. You'll get more than enough ambient light in a room that small.

If you decide on recessed lights
make sure that light is not only
rated for insulation contact (IC),
but also air tight (AT).
Look for ICAT lights.

One IC light = 1 sq ft of uninsulated attic.

When hvac system comes on recessed lights that
are not air tight pull attic air into home,
with this air movement are insulation particles.

BTW if dimmers are used CF's can not be installed.
Dimmers when used can save almost as CF's.
It is a good trade off.

Recessed lights that are air tight have
NO holes in housing. Compare to IC can to
see difference. Read the sticker inside the
recessed light cuz some of
the IC cans read as follows:

Bold Print
Air Tight

Small print
when used with the following kits...

best of luck with your project!