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Recomended reading - landscaping

posted by: zone_8grandma on 06.07.2007 at 03:25 pm in Building a Home Forum

I thought some of these books might help some of the new home builders here (bj & ce esp)

Also, there is another book that I found recommended on the Landscaping forum and it's become my bible.
Designing Your Gardens and Landscapes: 12 Simple Steps for Successful Planning by Janet Macunovich

here's a link to it on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1580173152/104-4070164-3758305?v=glance&n=283155&n=507846&s=books&v=glance

Here is a link that might be useful: Some good reading

NOTES:

Garden book recommendation from an Olympic Peninsula resident
clipped on: 06.08.2007 at 02:56 am    last updated on: 06.08.2007 at 03:23 am

RE: Snow to clean a Persian rug? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: Eithne on 01.31.2004 at 04:54 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

Wendy, what your mother is talking about is an old fashioned snow cleaning. I'm a handspinner, weaver and rug maker (hobby, not professional) and that's what I use with my good rugs.

It's important to put the rug outside in a protected unheated location for several hours or overnight so that the rug is the same temperature as the snow.

The best time to do this is when it's quite cold and dry out. The snow should be dry, not soggy.

Rather than rubbing the face of the rug with snow, place it face down on an area of clean snow and use a broom or the back of a rake to beat it lightly but vigorously. You want to create a lot of vibration without mashing the rug down into the snow.

When you're tired of beating the rug, flip it over and you'll be *amazed* at how much dirt was left behind. You can start with a thoroughly vacuumed rug and still get amazing amounts of dirt and broken off wool fibres out of it (the dirt cuts the wool fibres--up to half the dirt you get out of a wool rug is actually broken fibres).

Flip off the excess snow either by very gently shaking it or by holding it up while someone else beats the back. If you shake the rug, don't be like boys in a locker room! The shaking motion should barely move the rug, just enough motion to make it shimmy gently. Hard flipping can actually damage the rug.

Move the rug to a clean spot and repeat.

When you've run out of energy or run out of clean snow, hold up the rug and have someone gently beat the back of it to get as much snow as possible out of it.

Take it back to the protected area and lay it out to let the rest of the snow sublimate out of the rug. Sublimation refers to a process that a substance goes through when it turns from a solid (snow) to a vapor (ice) without going through a liquid phase. This only happens in cold, dry weather.

Take the rug back in the house and let it warm up to room temperature before you reposition it.

It will look beautiful Somehow the dry snow treatment intensifies the colours and makes the rug look brand new again.

NOTES:

How to clean a Persian carpet with snow
clipped on: 05.09.2007 at 01:39 pm    last updated on: 05.09.2007 at 01:40 pm

Random lessons learned

posted by: montalvo on 05.03.2007 at 03:08 pm in Building a Home Forum

Almost five years ago, we moved into our dream retirement house and I got lots of help from folks responding to my queries on GardenWeb. We love our home and virtually everything turned out great. I wanted to share what we learned in payment for the many good ideas that were shared with us.

I should qualify these lessons by saying that I put them together for a cousin who is about to build a home. And our home is large (7,100 sq. ft.) with lots of goodies (four dishwashers!) and it was built without any significant cost constraints. Still, most of the lessons we learned will apply irrespective of your budget or the size of your house.

Sorry for the lengthy post but those of you who are going through this know that there's lots to learn and in that respect, I've hardly scratched the surface.

1) HVAC:
a) With a 30 degree differential between high and low summer temperatures, a whole house fan may make a lot of sense. Buy fixed-pane windows for all but those windows that you'd open to accommodate the whole house fan. They're cheaper and provide better insulation than openable windows. Another alternative is that some newer A/C units have an exterior temperature sensor and they open a damper to suck in cool outside air in the evening rather than running the condenser, thereby cutting electricity use.
b) If you establish zones for a given forced air heater/air conditioner (i.e., two thermostats for one unit for control of two different areas of the house), make sure that split of the total area of the ducts feeding the two zones is no more extreme than 60/40.
c) Consider radiant heating for several reasons:
i) Keeps warmest temperatures close to the floor which saves money and/or increases comfort (especially important if you have high ceilings)
ii) Important for keeping your extremities warm, since your circulation deteriorates as you age.
iii) Noiseless.
iv) Permits room-by-room zoning (thermostat in each room) which saves money and allows you to have, for example, a cool exercise room next to a warm family room.
v) Stone or tile floors are toasty on bare feet in the winter; theyre cold with forced air systems, encouraging you to keep the thermostat set higher.
d) If you install radiant heating, make sure the pad under your carpet is "slab foam rubber", not polyurethane, fiber or rebond. It has the lowest R-value of any pad and may be difficult to find but it's worth it. The R-value of your carpet is surprisingly of little consequence.

2) Electrical/Lighting/Audio/Video/Internet:
a) If you don't install home-run wiring with programmable switches, then spend LOTS of time examining the location of lights and switches before construction begins because it's very expensive to change them after completion.
b) Consider wiring for picture lights (e.g., Joshua lights) during construction.
c) Consider outlets under the eaves for Xmas lights, all running to a single switch.
d) Don't forget wiring AND switches (unless you'll want them on timers) for exterior lights. Determine whether you'll use low-voltage or 110 volt; low voltage is much cheaper to install and maintain but 110 volt offers more dramatic effects on large trees, rocks, facades.
e) Determine your ISP and run wires accordingly. For instance, if you'll be using a cable modem, define where it will be located and run Cat-5 or Cat-6 wiring from there to all locations where you'll want connectivity. Include the kitchen, even if you don't initially plan on locating a computer station there.
f) Put four-plug outlets and light switches on either side of the bed in the master bedroom.
g) Run TV cable wire (RG-6) between rooms that may share a DVD or TiVo box or create a location for a hub and have all wires radiate from there.
h) If you install a satellite dish, determine its location before construction so wiring can be run accordingly.
i) Put a four-plug outlet under the kitchen sink (garbage disposal, hot water, dishwasher, et al).
j) Install door-activated switches to turn on a light in the entry closet and elsewhere.
k) Get at least one estimate for a full audio/video system throughout the house. Even if you have no intention of installing it, the estimate will give you some ideas for installing wiring and capabilities that you may want to have if/when you get HDTV or other forthcoming technologies.
l) Consider an intercom system if your floor plan is spread out. And if you don't get one, identify the number and location of doorbells that will ensure you'll know someone's at the front door wherever you are.
m) Under-cabinet lighting is both efficient and aesthetically pleasing. Think about it for upper cabinets in the laundry room and garage in addition to the kitchen.
n) Install an astrological timer for exterior lights that automatically adjusts sunset/sunrise for your latitude.
o) Install outlets in the floor where furniture placement is certain and outlets will be needed for table lamps.
p) Ensure that any wall outlets controlled by wall switches have one of the outlets that's always hot, enabling to you bypass the wall switch if you change your mind.
q) Ensure that circuit breakers are all clearly labeled.

3) Foundation/Framing/Roofing/Insulation
a) Specify closer spacing on floor joists than required by code to ensure a quiet and stable floor surface and to avoid cracks in tile.
b) Insulate all interior walls wherever sound attenuation will be beneficial.
c) Take photos or movies of all walls and ceilings after electrical and plumbing but before insulation and sheetrock.

4) Cabinetry/Doors/Windows/Hardware
a) Specify lever door handles rather than knobs; they're easier to open when your hands are full and when you become arthritic (what a happy thought!).
b) Get full-extension drawers throughout.
c) Put drawers instead of cabinet doors in lower cabinets to minimize stooping and reaching.
d) Use drawers instead of pull-outs (sliding drawers behind cabinet doors) unless a) you like "the look" of cabinet doors or b) you anticipate a need to adjust the height of the drawers at some point. Pull-outs are unnecessarily inconvenient (open two doors completely before pulling out drawer).
e) Frameless cabinets offer 10-15% more storage space than face frame cabinets.
f) Don't buy hollow-core doorsperiod.
g) Make sure that the width of doors will accommodate wheelchair access.
h) Examine door swings on the floor plan after penciling in furniture to ensure clearance.
i) Consider advantages and disadvantages of various openable window types. We chose mostly casement windows because screens can be on the inside for both aesthetic reasons and cleanliness. Pella offers roll-up screens; maybe others do also.
j) True divided light windows offer a realistic aesthetic but are much more work to clean.
k) Finalize all appliance selections before cabinet design begins to ensure fit and clearances. Supply specs to cabinet maker.

5) Plumbing
a) Test-drive tubs and toilets to ensure a comfortable fit. Wide tubs, while cool-looking, don't offer arm support. Whirlpool tubs typically require regular maintenance to remove stagnating water from the pipes.
b) Get a tub faucet set which includes a sprayer on the end of a hose; facilitates cleaning the tub as well as washing off the soap after soaking.
c) Check Consumer Reports for toilets that really flush.
d) Ensure that the handle spread, reach and placement of faucets are matched to the size of the sink and any pre-drilled holes.
e) Install water circulating pumps and plumbing if some faucets will be a substantial distance from the water heater.
f) Verify clearances if you intend to install long-bowl toilets.
g) Install hot water and soap dispensers in kitchen sink. Check to see if tap water will require filtration and install as appropriate.
h) Determine the location of hose bibs and sprinkler valves. Consider running oversized piping direct from the street for these to ensure higher pressure and volume (which allows more sprinkler heads/valve).
i) Drop the floor height under the master shower pan to enable the shower floor to be at/below floor level. This will simplify conversion to wheelchair access if necessary.
j) Install 36" high counters in the master bath rather than traditional height; reduces bending when washing your face.
k) Specify the height for shower pipe stub-out; typical height is too low. Some heads are height-adjustable, too.
l) Include shampoo/soap cubbies built into the shower walls; consider placement for aesthetics and avoiding path of shower spray.
m) Before pouring walkways, driveways and patios, lay down multiple 4" pipes to run under them to facilitate installation of irrigation and outdoor lightingand record where they are!
n) Ensure that all downspouts and run-off catch basins are carried to the street or storm drain system.
o) Record the locations of all sewage cleanouts.

6) Miscellaneous
a) Ensure that mailbox height and placement meets USPS requirements.
b) Verify space for turning radius to get vehicles into garage. Single car garage doors must be at least 9' wide. Driveways with any turns should be a minimum of 16' wide.
c) Plan for the maximum amount of storage space that you can ever imagine needingand then double it.

Hope you find some of these ideas to be helpful. If anything is unclear, reply and I'll try to explain things better.

Bob

NOTES:

Good lessons learned for building.
clipped on: 05.04.2007 at 03:00 am    last updated on: 05.04.2007 at 03:00 am

RE: What is the best grout cleaner? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 05.02.2007 at 10:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is one of the reasons I always say that epoxy is a waste of money for residential applications. Your best bet would be to get the following-- a scrub brush on a handle, oxyclean, and a wet vac. Mix a pail of oxyclean, following the directions on the side of the tub. Dunk the scrub brush into the solution, and scrub the joints down. Take it about a 5'x5' area at a time. Once you've done each area, take the shop vac and suck up the solution. (this way, you're not leaving it on the floor long enough for the dirt particles to settle back into the grout) Once you've done the whole floor, do it all over again, but this time with steaming hot clear water (no soap), again sucking it up with the wet vac. That will get the joints just as clean as they're going to get, without paying out big money to have a grout cleaning company come in and steam clean them.

NOTES:

How to clean epoxy grout
clipped on: 05.03.2007 at 02:21 pm    last updated on: 05.03.2007 at 02:31 pm

RE: Bldg inspector won't pass OTR microwave because it's too low (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: gabedad on 04.26.2007 at 08:45 am in Kitchens Forum

It seems that is the code

SECTION 510--COOKING UNIT CLEARANCE

510.1 Minimum Vertical Clearance. There shall be a minimum vertical clearance of not less than 30 inches between the cooking top of domestic oil, gas, and electric ranges and the underside of unprotected combustible material above such ranges. When the underside of such combustible material is protected with insulating millboard at least 1/4 inch thick covered with sheet metal of not less than 0.021-inch thickness (No. 28 U.S. gauge) or a metal ventilating hood, the distance shall be not less than 24 inches.

In my town (in MA ) it read like this

780 CMR 3618.3 INSTALLATION OF MICROWAVE OVENS

3618.3.1 Installation of microwave oven over a cooking appliance: The installation of a listed and labeled cooking appliance or microwave oven over a listed and labeled cooking appliance shall conform to the terms of the upper appliance's listing and label and the manufacturer's installation instructions.

it does not appear that your cirty ahs anything regarding microwaves. You may be able to ask for a variance. I would try going to the planning board with the MW's install sheet and maybe check the other town's/ islands in HI to see if they do.

24 inches seems too high. You may even want to look into disabilities acts for varainces. Good Luck

NOTES:

Code for distance above range to flammable.
clipped on: 04.26.2007 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 04.26.2007 at 11:08 am

Easy Closet.com -- a winner!

posted by: housebaby on 04.15.2007 at 11:27 pm in Building a Home Forum

Hi - I searched this and other forums to see what closet systems people used. I was reluctant to use online and prefab companies -- I didn't really like the quality or aesthetics of California closets.
I saw several posters happy with Easy Closets.com so I tried them. The online tool is amazing -- really easy to use and full of helpful tips. Then, I called and actually got a terrific, knowledgable, helpful, considerate, patient designer to perfect my closets.

The huge Master walk in -- 10' X 9 ' cost about $3800; the odd=shaped coat closet - 3.5' X 10' - cost about $900 (both in stained finish) and the cute, adjustable-shelf kitchen pantry in white was under $400.

If you use them, ask for Luis Perez at extension 171 -- I am not his girlfriend or business manager -- just a satisfied customer.

(Confession: my contractor installed them, not me, so I can't speak to ease but it took him no time...)

NOTES:

Another vote for easyclosets.
clipped on: 04.16.2007 at 02:38 am    last updated on: 04.16.2007 at 02:40 am

RE: Private gated entry/automatic gate - anyone have one? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: woodswell on 03.04.2007 at 12:47 am in Building a Home Forum

Every one with an automatic gate opener around here has Mighty Mule - but then they are made locally. The owners seem to be perfectly happy with the openers and I have not seen problems when I have visited people who own and use them. The only complaint I have is the gates swing pretty slowly - but I have little patience.

A telling factor - I seldom see farms around here with gate openers that are NOT actually using them. That seems to me to indicate that the things are reliable!

You can get better prices on the Mighty Mule openers through Tractor Supply, by the way.

DH insists that we get one but I am holding off until the construction is complete.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mighty Mule Gate Openers

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.04.2007 at 04:13 am    last updated on: 03.04.2007 at 04:22 am

RE: Source for decorative wood corbels (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: jolly__roger on 10.31.2006 at 10:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

Those corbels are nice looking.
It may be difficult to get the right color with the stain from the cabinet company.

Therefore, you may want to use pre-stain wood conditioner and maybe even Gel stain to hide the glue lines and the difference in the colors of the boards. I like the products that a small company called General Finishes makes for small projetcs like this that have to be done just right.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes

NOTES:

Good info on staining corbels
clipped on: 11.01.2006 at 02:47 am    last updated on: 11.01.2006 at 02:47 am

RE: How do I clean my new tiled bathroom? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 06.24.2006 at 07:29 pm in Bathrooms Forum

How about just plain old hot water and a rag? If from time to time you need to add some detergient, an mild household detergient will do fine. My recommendations would be for oxyclean. It does a terrific job cleaning both tile AND grout.

NOTES:

Use OxyClean to clean tiles & grout.
clipped on: 10.22.2006 at 03:31 am    last updated on: 10.22.2006 at 03:35 am

RE: Cerdomus Hymera (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 02.19.2006 at 11:50 pm in Flooring Forum

It's good stuff-- but that's a blessing AND a curse (you'll be cursing it when installing it!!). I say a curse because Cerdomus has to be hands down the ABSOLUTE hardest tile I've ever worked with. There is NO WAY this stuff will cut on a score and snap cutter. Every single cut MUST go on a wet saw, and on the last job I did with it, I had to even use a heavy duty segmented blade that I bought for cutting 3 cm flamed granite a couple of years ago. Every other blade I tried would veer off because the tile was too hard, including a porcelain blade!! So, be prepared!!

NOTES:

Bill V's comment on difficulty of cutting Cerdomus tile due to its hardness
clipped on: 10.22.2006 at 03:18 am    last updated on: 10.22.2006 at 03:19 am

RE: sun tunnel or solatube (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: fourwheelin on 08.28.2006 at 11:48 am in Windows Forum

Either product is fine I'm sure, with Velux being quite a bit cheaper $ wise. I just installed (2) Solatubes, (10") last week, and am very happy with the quality of the components, and the performance so far, even though I have yet to see them work on a clear sunny day since it's rained ever since install. I chose Solatube over Velux due to longer track record making these, patented features that give them a slight edge, they were available in stock at my dealer, and I knew I could get the tube to where it had to go. This last statement should be your first consideration. Do not buy anything till you've clearly researched your framing situation. You may need to get one product over the other for that reason alone. Velux's rigid tubing would not have worked with my offset beam situation unless I went to a 14" flexible style tubing they offer. I did not want flexible, nor a 14" light in a small room. Solatube has knuckles (moveable elbows) on the top/bottom tubes to offset the angle to get around things easier and allowed me to angle my way into a room to the left of the roof opening that had a 4" beam offset to boot. I did not see anything on the Velux site's install/spec sheets that would have made this possible with their 10" rigid product.

Install Note: I can recommend not final taping "anything" till you've put the whole run together, and to do that easier..."bolt" the lower tube to your ceiling with nuts/washers (do not use the provided "screws" that will fail the drywall in minutes by the weight of the tubing alone during setup. Use pieces of painters tape to fashion the tubes and do a complete mockup, then pencil mark the joints and positions of everything so you know where everything did align when you disassemble for final finished foil taping/screwing.
SolaTube has Raybender "Fresnel" feature on the dome to bend light down the tube, and a south faced (user positioned) deflector to do the same. My wife points out that to her...the light appears blue weighted a bit, which is probably true, due to the UV being removed to prevent fading of interiors. I'm sure a new "needed" room color could return the missing spectrum. Oh...on that note, remember that the light you get from these is very intense. It will highlight any room flaws quite visibly (wife home when sun came out once).

NOTES:

Tips for installing Solatubes
clipped on: 10.17.2006 at 05:24 am    last updated on: 10.17.2006 at 05:24 am

RE: Thanks poster who recommended miracle cloth for shower glass (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: natsmom on 09.27.2006 at 09:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

omgosh, I'm so glad I found this thread! I just cleaned my shower and it is spotless! I was really just ready to give up and live with the water spots and soap scum. I even had "Rain-X" on it. It helped somewhat for a little while. I also tried cleaning it with a steam-cleaner.

I am truly stunned at how well water and a microfiber cloth cleans!

NOTES:

Microfiber clothes clean showers great.
clipped on: 09.30.2006 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 09.30.2006 at 08:33 pm

RE: Porcelain tile: how to choose? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: basnjas on 07.27.2006 at 01:49 pm in Flooring Forum

I purchased a few boxes of Crossville tile from FastFloors.com and recommend them highly. I bought 14"x14" polished tiles and 20"x20" unpolished tiles (that I plan to cut into 4" strips for a border). The local store that sells Crossville was 30%+ higher in price and required us to purchase whole cartons, just like FastFloors.com. After I registered on FastFloors' website to access their online Cart, I received a very friendly and un-pushy email from a sales associate, giving me a person that I could work with on the purchase. Since I was buying 2 different types of tile, both from the same manufacturer, I contacted the sales associate, Shawn Pertschuk (ext. 210) to ask if I could get combined shipping. It was no problem. He seemed very dedicated (answering his phone more than an hour after his voicemail says that he's gone for the day) and processed my order very quickly. All of my tile arrived direct from Crossville, very securely wrapped and ahead of schedule. I couldn't be happier! Since this tile was very expensive and I'm doing such a small area (4' x 7' bathroom), I couldn't justify spending the extra $85/carton or so to get the "recommended" 10%+ tile overage. Heck, if I buy one additional box of the 20"x20", I'll have added 50% of my purchase of that tile! However, if it looks like I do need an extra carton or two, I have no doubt that FastFloors will get it to me just as quickly as the local store.

As far as types of porcelain tile, I purchased the Crossville tile ($11/sf locally, $6.50/sf through FastFloors) and a $3/sf tile from Lowes. One is for a powder room and the other is for the laundry room. The $3/sf tile is actually thicker than the $11/sf tile, and both have the color going all of the way through them. However, the $11/sf tile just seems to be more precisely made, cleaner edges, tighter "graining". The coloring is also fantastic on the Crossville. I think the polished tile is going to look just like marble, but it should be much tougher to crack.

beverly27's comment on the "stamped on" pattern with the white border is something that I never thought about, but always perceived, when looking at cheaper tile. Her comment on the bullnose/edge pieces is something to keep in mind. I couldn't justify paying the outrageous cost for the Crossville bullnose, so I bought a nice wet saw and polishing stone and plan to make my own. Let's see. $6/ea. for a 3" x 14" bullnose, or $3.99/sf for a 14"x14" tile that can be cut into 4 bullnoses per tile, or less than $1.50 per 14" piece. For 20+ bullnoses, that will save me over $90.00. However, you may want to see what options a tile has for bullnose, corners, decorations, etc.

If you are looking for a colorful $4/sf porcelain tile, consider the Crossville Color Blox series. It is just beautiful! I didn't get that (using the Empire series in the powder room), but considered it for the laundry room. It's actually just too pretty to put in a laundry room. If I redo our enclosed back patio, I will definately be putting the Color Blox tile in. It looks like suede on your floor.
:)

NOTES:

Great info on buying tile from FastFloors. Also good idea on creating bullnose tiles.
clipped on: 09.03.2006 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2006 at 05:29 pm

RE: Porcelain tile: how to choose? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.25.2006 at 12:36 am in Flooring Forum

The only thing I would make sure of is to specify that your order be ALL from one run. You don't want your tile coming from different runs or you could run into some bad shading or sizing problems. That's the ONLY complaint I have with Dal. I've gotten orders from the warehouse from two different runs that the sizes varied as much as an 1/8", and the color shades were like night and day. For sure, it was an oversight by the guys in the warehouse, but that COULD explain the huge discount off retail being offered by the online sites. So long as you specify that you want all one run beforehand, though, you're covered, because if they DO send you two different runs, you can point to that email, and demand they take it back and pay the shipping charges.

If you have any question, look on the boxes-- not at the printed labels, but at the number that's been STAMPED on the boxes. They should all match. If there's even one number different, you have two different lots.

NOTES:

Importance of ordering tile "all from one run." (I.e., numbers STAMPED on the boxes must match exactly!)
clipped on: 09.03.2006 at 05:20 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2006 at 05:21 pm

RE: Mirror and vanity light placement? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: johnmari on 08.31.2006 at 10:38 pm in Bathrooms Forum

FWIW, ranchreno, you can purchase a frame at somewhere like pictureframes.com or frankenframes.com (or from a framing shop, or buy a framed picture from somewhere like TJMaxx or Big Lots and throw away the picture... if the frame is the right size and style and the wrong color, bust out a can of spray paint) and have a glass company stick a mirror in it, and then have EXACTLY what you want. Don't give up so easily!

NOTES:

Mirror framing ideas/sources
clipped on: 09.01.2006 at 04:24 am    last updated on: 09.01.2006 at 04:25 am

RE: carpet area surrounded by hardwood? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: tivydave on 09.01.2006 at 12:38 am in Flooring Forum

we did this 16 yrs ago in our first custom house. large entry was h/w. din and pool table rm were on either side of entry. had a peremiter of h/w 18" in din and 2' in pool rm w/carpet in the middle. looked FABULOUS and well integrated. why pay for h/w if you are going to cover w/rug?? make sure installers use DOUBLE stips of tack to secure the carpet.

NOTES:

Carpet surrounded by hardwood
clipped on: 09.01.2006 at 03:33 am    last updated on: 09.01.2006 at 03:34 am

RE: Keeping white hex tile plus white grout clean ... help! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Bill_Vincent on 09.30.2005 at 09:57 am in Bathrooms Forum

I wouldn't use ANY spray sealer, anyway, and I'm not going to go into it, but they're not as good, and I'll leave it at that. There IS a simple solution, though. Grout colorant. It's simple, albeit time consuming to apply, but once it's down, the grout will be easy to keep clean, and it'll seal what's there, as well. In the following thread, read reply #2. It's from the webmaster of the forum, and it's given me a whole new outlook on grout colorants. I used to DREAD using them till I read that post. It's just as easy as he makes it sound.

Here is a link that might be useful: Using grout colorant

NOTES:

How to deal with grungy white grout
clipped on: 08.28.2006 at 02:34 am    last updated on: 08.28.2006 at 02:35 am

RE: Dupont's new Sorona carpet (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: boxers on 02.12.2006 at 03:13 pm in Flooring Forum

I worked for Mohawk for many years, in fact my best friend was looking at this fiber as well. Mohawk bought the largest mill that made only PET carpet. The yarn is made from recycled pop bottles is of very high quality. Its nothing like the old polyesters. Nylon carpet even DuPont stainmaster yarns are not guaranteed against such common things like cat throwup. Nylon is only dyed on the perimeter of a yarn strand, where polyester or pet is more throughout the fiber. Like everything else in flooring there are pros and cons to each fiber. In my friends case he needs this yarn cause it won't fade like a nylon or wool and he has a partial glass ceiling. Store owners that sell Pet yarn or carpet made from it have sold hundred of thoasands of yds without a claim. I personally would go for it if stain resistance is your primary objective. Just for the record, nylon is made from 100% petroleum so don't let the pop bottle thing scare you. Its environmentally correct and you are getting a well made product.

NOTES:

Advice on SmartStrand carpeting
clipped on: 08.27.2006 at 05:37 am    last updated on: 08.27.2006 at 05:37 am

RE: Dupont's new Sorona carpet (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: carpetgirl on 08.09.2006 at 09:38 am in Flooring Forum

I work for Mohawk and helped with the launch of these carpets. I have recommended it highly to friends who know where I live and I recommend it highly to all of you!

SmartStrand made with DuPont Sorona polymer is exclusive to Mohawk. The polymer is made by DuPont in pellet form (about the size of a bb) and the fiber and carpets are produced by Mohawk. DuPont's trademark for the chemical type is 3GT, but the structure is chemically identical to PTT polymer. Shell/PTT PolyCanada also manufactures PTT which Mohawk uses as well.

DuPont has been making polymers for decades. We have them to thank for Kevlar, nylon, Stainmaster and many other household names. We now have them to thank for Sorona. This polymer is naturally stain resistant. The protection will never wash off or wear-off. You might not be aware that many carpets - and all nylon carpets - have a stain chemical added to them. That resistance will diminish over time and with recommended cleanings. SmartStrand with Sorona doesn't need a chemical added.

The floor performance is as good as - if not better than -nylon in similar carpets. There is no issue with traffic resilance as mentioned in an earlier post - this is the primary improvement over PET. The wear characteristics are great.

This is NOT PET polymer as was posted earlier. PET carpets can be made from recycled soda bottles or from new polymer - Mohawk does both, but the majority is recycled (over 2 billion bottles a year!)

Another note on the DuPont technology and why they have attempted to seperate themselves a bit from PTT as a whole - they have developed a process by which about 40-50% of the total polymer can be sugar based. The source of the sugar will be corn. Mohawk expects to have all its carpet converted to the renewable resouce based polymer by the second half of 2007.

This is the best choice in carpeting today. For those wary of something new - It was introduced in 2005, so it has had some time in the market - but it was in development for years prior to introduction. These carpets can be found at over 6000 retail outlets and also the Home Depot.

NOTES:

Technical info on SmartStrand carpeting
clipped on: 08.27.2006 at 05:35 am    last updated on: 08.27.2006 at 05:36 am

RE: oh boy bad bad carpet need help. (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: boxers on 08.24.2006 at 11:51 pm in Flooring Forum

my friend just put Smartstrand carpet in their own house and it performs really nice. My friend is still a Mohawk rep and he swears by Smartstrand. He is putting it in his own house. I don't mind the skepiticsm but it really seems to be very durable, soft, and will perform well.

NOTES:

A recommendation for Mohawk 'SmartStrand' carpet.
clipped on: 08.25.2006 at 05:21 am    last updated on: 08.25.2006 at 05:22 am

RE: Maintenance Free Cubby for Soaps / Shampoo (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: flyleft on 08.15.2006 at 11:37 pm in Bathrooms Forum

re the bench: How deep is it? We got the corner better bench that's 17" on each side, with a wider hypotenuse as the seat edge. It's just *barely* deep enough, and we're slim. I'd recommend a *minimum* of 10"; 12" would be better, IMO. Maybe the pros can weigh in on that.

Our ledge is technically not exactly perpendicular, like yours, but rather across from the catty-cornered seat.

NOTES:

Shower bench depth should be 10" - 12". Photo is 12".
clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 03:45 am    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 03:46 am

RE: Maintenance Free Cubby for Soaps / Shampoo (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dmlove on 08.15.2006 at 02:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here are my bench and ledge pre-tiling. Our tiler said he can make the ledge deeper with mud if we so choose (I think it may need another inch, what do you think?)

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

Framing for Shampoo Ledge
clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 03:42 am    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 03:43 am

RE: Maintenance Free Cubby for Soaps / Shampoo (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: dmlove on 08.15.2006 at 01:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Actually, Fly, we're doing a "ledge" in the master shower, too (although ours is IN the shower, so yes, you have to look at the stuff while admiring the tile :)) Our ledge is perpendicular to the built-in bench, is 4-5" deep and goes up 36". We had one in a hotel and thought it was very convenient and looked nice, too. We have no glass in our shower, so you can't see the ledge unless you're in the shower or standing at the angled no-door opening. The baskets are for the bathroom we're not remodeling, just doing cosmetics (new floor tile, new toilet, said basket, new light fixtures, wallpaper, towel bars, etc.)

NOTES:

Great idea for shower ledge for shampoos!
clipped on: 08.17.2006 at 03:41 am    last updated on: 08.17.2006 at 03:42 am

RE: Recommended height of med. cab. and sconces? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: adichristi on 07.17.2006 at 11:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Expert's Insight
Wall sconces provide a splash of indirect light that creates the illusion that a room is larger than it is. For this reason, and because they are commonly placed slightly higher than eye level, keep the bulb wattage low. Typically, it makes the most sense to add wall sconces to one wall where accent or indirect lighting is called for.

In most cases, wall sconces work best in conjunction with other lights rather than as the primary light source for a room. They work well for ambient light but are insufficient for specific tasks, such as reading.

Install sconces 72 to 78 inches high. Any lower, and you will bump into them; any higher, and they will seem designed to light the ceiling rather than the room. A few sconces go a long way, so keep them spaced more than 6 feet from each other.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sconces

NOTES:

Says sconces should be placed 72 to 78 inches high (slightly higher than eye level).
clipped on: 08.14.2006 at 02:39 pm    last updated on: 08.14.2006 at 02:41 pm

RE: Quick questions for Catluvr and Chiefneil (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: catluvr on 07.28.2006 at 01:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi Kevin,
The reason it's hard to know whether you're getting true Alzak is that the "big three" (Halo, Juno, Lightolier) don't necessarily say "Alzak" in their printed literature; there's a sticker on the trim itself that says "Alzak" w/the tradmark label. Halo does use Alzak as their specular finish. Rest assured that if you request a specular trim from Halo (notated by a "C" after the number), you'll get an Alzak trim.

The real risk is in using less recognized brand names or no-name Chinese imports--the big guys won't cut corners in order to make a buck.

Hope that helps!

NOTES:

Says Halo's Alzak trim is called "Specular" and has a "C" after the number.
clipped on: 08.12.2006 at 03:34 pm    last updated on: 08.12.2006 at 03:35 pm

RE: If you are planning recessed lighting.... (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: trubee on 07.01.2006 at 07:17 pm in Building a Home Forum

Everything is Juno and the architect selected the autumn haze Alzak trim because it will give warmer color and more light - we have high ceilings and the area in which we are building has a night ordinance so it is dark outside. I will have to pull the lighting specs to tell you the exact lamp. But he was a lighting specialist before becoming an architect so hopefully he knows what he is doing!

NOTES:

Juno recessed with Autumn Haze Alzak trim sounds perfect for us too!
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 08:22 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 08:23 pm

RE: What did you pre-wire for? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jgar26 on 06.29.2006 at 10:28 pm in Building a Home Forum

I just finished this planning process in my custom home. I prewired for the items you mentioned above, and in addition added plenty of extra outlets, ceiling fans in addtional areas of the home (we are building in Orlando), prewired for Satellite TV for 4 bedrooms, and a future fountain in the front garden that will have the switch at the foyer entrance....we also prewired and preplumbed for a future outdoor kitchen on our lanai. In addition, we prewired for speakers with volume control for our outdoor lanai area, main hallway, and bonus room. We also had ethernet connections placed in the den. I don't know if this stuff will be worth it in the end, but I figured now was the time to do it, and I can customize it to my liking later. I don't think one will necessarily make this money back on a resale, but that isn't the point I guess.

This process is fun and frustrating (we have just FINALLY started actual construction on the house)....I am sure mistakes will be made on my part...so we'll see.

Goodluck

NOTES:

Prewired for Satellite TV in several rooms and for future outdoor needs.
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 05:13 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 05:14 pm

RE: As far as wiring your home, what special things did you plan (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: soldier on 08.02.2005 at 05:18 pm in Building a Home Forum

....if costs were no obstacle, here's the many places
where additional electrical outlets might be a real convenience.

1. Here's the HOLIDAY ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Outlets under roof eaves for Christmas lights
(and place them on switches for easy on/off at the front porch).

If you have a gable-style roof, place an outlet near
the top peak so there's a place to plug-in the Christmas Star.

Outlets under inside of front windows for 'candle' lights
(and place them on switches as well).

Where are you going to put your Christmas tree?
Place an outlet in that corner controlled by a switch!

Place two outlets on either side of front entryway for Christmas lights.

Is there a fireplace in your new home?
Place an outlet on the mantel for decor items!

Is there a main staircase in your new home?

Place an outlet at front of the side base for a lighted garland up the staircase.

Over the kitchen cabinets (if they are open to the ceiling), place an outlet so you can plug-in Christmas lights to highlight decor. In this way, you don't actually see the wires...just the glow.

Is there a wrap-around porch on your new home?

Include multiple outlets around perimeter for seasonal lighting decor.

Place exterior outlets along driveway and access point on main arterial.

2. Here's the exterior LANDSCAPE ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Place outlets strategically in yard for electrical mower or weed eater.

Allow electrical runs for 'future' buildings or storage sheds, as well as possible motor home hook-ups.

Place outlets on every exterior wall for landscape lighting or yard work.

Don't forget to provide electrical package for cooking and barbecue area (and, place it adjacent to the gas supply line).

Include outdoor lighting for stairs, steps and walkways.

Will there be a gazebo in your landscape?
Be sure to design an electrical package for this area!

If you're including a fountain, spa, pool, wading, or hot tub...be certain to remember electrical service for pumps, lights and outlets.

Include electrical service for future shop or work area.

And, what would any garden be without accent lights and fixtures?

3. Here's the interior UTILITY ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

Place several outlets inside walk-in closets for charging...batteries, pagers, cell phones, cordless flashlights...and those worthless, every-home-has-one, dust busters!

Place an outlet adjacent to telephone jacks for caller ID boxand your cordless telephone base.

In the kitchen, don't forget about the GFI outlet under the sinkfor the instant hot water dispenser and garbage disposal...easier to add now if you think you might want them.

In kitchen walls, place outlets for under- or in-cabinet lighting.

In the laundry room, provide electrical service for clothes iron (and, don't forget service for a built-in ironing board with a light).

Don't forget wiring and supports for ceiling fans.

Should radiant floor heat be incorporated into your new home, be sure to include electrical service for this system.

Will a jetted tub be included in your new bathroom?
Be certain to place an outlet for the pump in the correct location!

Place outlets in the hallway and entryway.

Sometimes it's hard to find a place to plug in the vacuum cleaner.

If you are putting in a security system or intercom
(or are just pre-wiring), be sure to provide
electrical service to these areas.

Closely related: Run two cat5e (or cat6)
and two (paired) shielded coax lines (RG-6 not RG-59)
to each room of the house, coming from a central wiring box.

Place outlets in garage where car will be parked for a car battery charger.

Also, include outlets at workbench height for power tools
(check amperage requirements of tools & equipment).

Install a whole-house surge suppressor in your main breaker box.

In the attic and crawl space entries, place outlets near the access hatches.

This will be useful for a light and to plug-in an extension cord!

If your new home is located in an area where power-loss frequently occurs, be certain to install a sub-panel for electrical generator, or a future alternative energy source.

Think Ahead: place conduit in the ground to accommodate future el runs.

4. Here's the LIFESTYLE ELECTRICAL PACKAGE:

During the design process, review your floor plan using your furniture layout. Think about the lifestyle you want to create within the homestyle.

During the build process, do a walk-thru as soon as possible.

Re-think your electrical layout. Measure. Measure. Measure.

Mark locations of cabinets and furniture.

Define your electrical services based lifestyle needs.

Place outlets and switches in locations that are convenient for you.

Remember: Too many switches in one area looks ugly.

Place lighting fixtures in locations that will benefit your lifestyle.

Be sure your electrical contractor reviews electrical layout with you.

The National Electrical Code determines minimum requirements, and you'll want to meet this standard while also addressing your needs.

If your ground floor is a concrete slab-on-grade,
be absolutely certain of your cabinet and furniture locations so the electrical service layout serves you best!

For furniture placed in the middle of a room,
place outlets and fixtures directly above or below exact location.

This includes the locations of chandeliers, table lamps, or reading lights.

Don't rely on anyone else to fully consider your lifestyle...prior to concrete pouring or final framing, be certain to layout your home based on electrical service required for your lifestyle and homestyle.

Place outlets on both ends of the kitchen island.

Place outlets in convenient locations at bathroom vanity,
especially if there's a 'his & hers' side (off the sink counter and out-of-site is always nice).

For a home office, fully consider computer, scanner, printer, answering machine, lamps, chargers, radios...need I say more?

For an entertainment center, include 2 quad outlets on center of that wall!

Do you need a plug-in for a laptop computer? Where?

Where your TV is located, don't forget the DVD, VCR, CD...
what else did I forget?...oh, yeah...satellite receiver?

In a bedroom, don't underestimate the number of plug-ins at your bed stand: alarm clock, cordless phone, lamps. A quad outlet may be needed.

In hallways, place small, theater-style foot lighting in the walls at knee level controlled by a switch outside each bedroom doorway (a great idea for getting up in the middle of the night, teenagers coming home late, or subtle mood lighting for a party).

Consider every room in terms of its current and future use...what is now a kid's bedroom, may become a home office or exercise room.

It's a lot cheaper and easier to place wiring now rather than later!

If you intend to include an exercise room, what are the equipment needs?

Consult with your vendor for security or audio system to determine low-volt requirements.

For a luxury home, you may want a plug-in for heated towel rack in bathroom (if you think you may want one now or in the future).

Okay...that's it...make sure to consider cost of adding outlets, switches and fixtures because it sure adds up fast
when you're using a licensed contractor.

Your electrician should do a walk thru with you
discussing any particular needs you may have.

BUT...do remember: each item beyond the standard,
code required installation, is an EXTRA.

NOTES:

Good check-list.
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 04:46 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 04:47 pm

RE: As far as wiring your home, what special things did you plan (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: keriwest on 08.02.2005 at 01:00 am in Building a Home Forum

We've done many of the things already mentioned. Also....

220 in my closet for a tanning bed
lighting in all niches
outlets in mantles
switches for gas fireplace starters
outlets in cabs for chargeables
did double tv/phone wiring in bedrooms to allow for flexibility in furniture placement
wired for plasmas above 2 fireplaces
wired for under cab, drop-down, flat screens in kitchen and craft room
tv behind mirror in master bath
telephone in master bath toilet room--yep, real excited about that one (where's that eye-rolling smiley?--lol)
built-in ironing boards in laundry and master closet
low lighting at stairs
ceiling fans outside
floor outlets in den and study
phone in garage

There are so many cool things that can be done!

NOTES:

Some good reminders.
clipped on: 07.01.2006 at 04:44 pm    last updated on: 07.01.2006 at 04:45 pm

RE: Shower inserts for shampoo, soap, etc. (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: Nessas on 11.13.2005 at 03:38 am in Bathrooms Forum

We bought pre-made porcelain recessed niches, one big one for shampoos and 2 for soaps, and a matching toilet-paper holder. They all work great, we like them a lot. And they were easy to install.

Here is a link that might be useful: porcelain shower niches

NOTES:

Nice-looking & reasonably priced.
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 12:59 am    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 01:01 am

RE: Pictures (finally) of my almost done house (Follow-Up #40)

posted by: blsdgal on 12.12.2005 at 10:37 pm in Building a Home Forum

I'm back online--yeah!

Liz--My decorator was also my kitchen designer, and mine was her first Wood-mode kitchen. She made several mistakes which means I have to wait WEEKS to get my cabinets completely done. This has been my Wood-mode frustration. My cabinets are beautiful, but if I had it to do over again--I would have gone with the local custom cabinet maker who did my built ins and mantels. I would have gotten beautiful cabinets at about 2/3 of the price--and without the long wait for a replacement if something is not right.

John--My house is "Oak Hill Lane" by Spitzmiller & Norris--with some minor changes. They have a nice website, but I found my plan on the Southern Living site.

amm- the countertop is "Tropic Brown". Neutral and easy to keep clean.

Bichonfriz--It will take a while to fill my house, since everything I own was ruined in a fire. I do have new furniture though :) We sent back those black railings. They did not look right with the white trim on the house. We went with "Old South"--aluminum like the columns on the front. We used the Federal style. The top of the railing is 42"--important since I still have small children. I'll get a pic for you as soon as it warms up a little.

Thanks all--and I am so happy to be in our new house. For all of you in the process, hang tough--it will be over with and sooner than you think :)

NOTES:

Note: "Old South" aluminum railings, Federal style, 42"
clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 04:53 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 04:54 pm

RE: Recessed light fixture questions (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: catluvr on 02.14.2006 at 07:00 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

WOW! That's a lot of questions! Placement IS key w/recessed. If you're diy, it can be difficult. There are a lot of variables in the questions you ask, but there are some general rules. Use recessed lighting more for accent and task lighting--general lighting is possible, but not as "cozy" as indirect and/or diffused lighting. Never place a recessed light directly over where someone will be sitting--it makes for unattractive shadows. Dimmers are always a good choice.

You'll get lots of opinions for and against compact fluorescents--IMO, they're good for some things and not others.

As far as the housings you already purchased, it will be better for you to place the cans before drywall. Removal and patching will be more expensive both in time and materials. If you are worried about the placement, I suggest you get remodel housings, which are designed to fit into a pre-cut hole in the drywall after it's up.

The link below gives a well-rounded basic "education" on lighting types and sources for the home, and how to determine what's right for you. The site also gives some rules of thumb for placement and fixture appropriateness, as well as energy usage conversions from incandescent to fluorescent.

Here is a link that might be useful: ALA Website

NOTES:

Place before drywall
clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 04:55 am    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 04:56 am

RE: Need Lighting Layout Help (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jon1270 on 06.21.2006 at 07:31 am in Kitchens Forum

I found lighting to be one of the toughest sets of decisions, too. I read a couple of books before I was done, and one of Whitehead's was the better... I think it was "Residential Lighting: A Practical Approach" or something like that.

I would think the lighted ceiling fan is a bad idea. When you have a light in the middle of the room and counters around the outside, your body inevitably casts shadows over whatever area of counter you're working at. The lights on a ceiling fan inevitably hang lower than other surface-mount fixtures, making those shadows even larger.

I think it's a mistake to think that the lights over the sink, in the range hood and spill from the pendants will eliminate the need for cans along the sink wall. For one thing, that would mean you'd be running to several spots in the room, flipping all sorts of switches just to get minimal light. The beauty of having several kinds of light sources is flexibility; don't plan on having them all on at once. I'd put the pendants on one switch, the sink lights on another, the UC lights on yet another. I'd think of the other cans as general lighting, putting them on one or two switches near the door. Much of the light from the perimiter cans will bounce off the cabinets and reflect out into the room.

Maybe something like this?

NOTES:

Note no cans in front of appliances
clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 01:50 am    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 01:52 am

Upgraded cans, huge difference - photos

posted by: chiefneil on 06.07.2006 at 01:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had an electrician come by today to install some new recessed cans for me. Turns out he's a lighting specialist and he talked me into upgrading the cheap builder trims in my kitchen to Juno alzac trims. He also swapped out my mix of fluourescent and incandescent bulbs for the GE Edison bulbs. The difference is amazing.

Here's a before shot - you can see the bulbs glaring in your eyes in this photo.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's the after shot with the new trims. Note that the lights are on in this photo, but you can't tell! The colors in the kitchen really pop now, and the lights are significantly brighter - I need to install a dimmer now. The only downside is that the quality of the light seems more directed and less difuse, leading to some slight shadows that I never noticed before; this may be due simply to the fact that the lights are so much brighter and might go away when I install a dimmer.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Here's an in-between shot. All the lights are on, but you can only tell with the three trims that haven't yet been replaced. BTW, I was sweating bullets (worrying about my granite cracking) when he had to get up on a ladder on my island. I put down some 3/4" plywood and kept a sharp watch to make sure he didn't stand or put the ladder over the overhang.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

Poster said: $45 each for the trim+bulb+installation for the Juno 6" clear Alzak trim
clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 01:48 am    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 01:48 am

RE: Upgraded cans, huge difference - photos (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: catluvr on 06.07.2006 at 08:43 pm in Kitchens Forum

ak, black baffles were actually the standard when cans first arrived on the scene. White came into play at the behest of interior designers and decorators who didn't like the "black hole" effect, however there wasn't enough education from the lighting community as to the reason WHY black was preferred. After that, white became the norm. With the advent of the Alzak product (not sure when) technology allowed better light concealment and now educated designers actually will spec black Alzak trims. Clear is a great compromise between the white baffle which is too glary and black Alzak (for those who can't get over the black holes in the ceiling). It tends to reflect the colors in the room and disappear a little better during the daylight hours.

In fact, if you were to put a black baffle (the ridged type) trim next to a clear Alzak trim, the amount of light reflected off the sides of the trim would be about the same. Here's a picture of a hallway illuminated with black Alzak (all the lights are on--there are 3):

without flash:
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
with flash:
Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

NOTES:

Good explanation of Alzak trim colors and their effects
clipped on: 06.25.2006 at 01:46 am    last updated on: 06.25.2006 at 01:46 am

RE: spacing recessed lights in Kitchen...help! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: spencer_electrician on 01.25.2006 at 08:50 pm in Electrical Wiring Forum

As far as the spacing use the 4 ft rule for spacing in the midle area for general light. Also center cans between sets of cabinets, the oven, fridge, and sink. They can be closer than 4ft if needed, place them so the outer of the circle is 6" from the cabinet door or whatever it is infront of. If the kitchen has an eating area such as a proposed table location place 2 a few cans centered with it and put them on its own switch/dimmer. Then if things are on dimmers you can turn the kitchen work area down and brighten up the table for a meal. Some use pendant light fixtures instead of cans for the kitchen table. Main tips for the plan is put in plenty of cans, seperate areas on different switches, the set that goes through the most of the kitchen you'll probably want a switch at both ends of the kitchen if there are 2 entrances, and make sure they put a 15 amp circuit in just for the kitchen lights they're power hogs and dont want to overload a circuit such as the refrigerator or other household plugs. Good luck

NOTES:

Good advice
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 04:34 am    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 04:34 am

RE: spacing recessed lights in Kitchen...help! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: petey_racer on 01.25.2006 at 07:27 am in Electrical Wiring Forum

No Spencer, it's sad what the California electrical world has come to!
Years back I was against recessed over the work spaces. Now after having done hundreds of kitchens this way I can say it is a great form of lighting. Sorry David, you can downplay and poo poo incandescent lighting, but it is still the best form of natural light. Yes, fluorescents can give very good light, I use them myself, but IMO they are not the best choice for recessed light. I am a BIG proponent of dimmers on everything incandescent. When you can find a fluor that gives a warm soft light when dimmed, and a bright work light when full on, call me.

I also have become against halogen. Xenon is the new way to go. Almost the same light, no transformers (if you want), dimmable, and much less heat.

Best bet IMO, 6" R30 cans around the cabinet layout, aprox. 22" off the WALL (not cabinet face), and xenon undercabinet lighting. You'll get more than enough ambient light in a room that small.

NOTES:

Very helpful advice in last paragraph.
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 04:28 am    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 04:29 am

RE: recessed lighting recommendations? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Energy_Rater_La on 08.14.2005 at 11:07 pm in Remodeling Forum

Halogens put out a LOT of heat!
CF's are longer lasting, put out 1/3rd
the heat of an incandescent light..which is
much cooler than halogens.

If you decide on recessed lights
make sure that light is not only
rated for insulation contact (IC),
but also air tight (AT).
Look for ICAT lights.

One IC light = 1 sq ft of uninsulated attic.

When hvac system comes on recessed lights that
are not air tight pull attic air into home,
with this air movement are insulation particles.

BTW if dimmers are used CF's can not be installed.
Dimmers when used can save almost as CF's.
It is a good trade off.

Recessed lights that are air tight have
NO holes in housing. Compare to IC can to
see difference. Read the sticker inside the
recessed light cuz some of
the IC cans read as follows:

Bold Print
Air Tight

Small print
when used with the following kits...

best of luck with your project!

NOTES:

Good advice, especially about ICAT
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 04:07 am    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 04:08 am

RE: Almost done - progress report and pics... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Bill_Vincent on 12.13.2005 at 06:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

All I can say is WOW!!

NOTES:

Poster's comment: "Bill - Thanks to you, I'm pretty certain that everything is done pretty professionally - from the Spectralock Pro grout (that stuff's $$$, BTW), to the floated walls, and properly pitched shower pan, etc."
clipped on: 06.11.2006 at 01:47 am    last updated on: 06.11.2006 at 01:49 am