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My weekend beadboard wallpaper project/laundry room (pics)

posted by: annkathryn on 03.21.2010 at 01:22 am in Home Decorating Forum

My son and I spent the weekend refacing cabinets in the laundry room and upstairs hall using sheesharee's inspiration post as a starting point. I purchased wallpaper that looks like beadboard, some moulding, spackle and wood glue, and a $25 miter saw from Craig's List. I had some leftover semi-gloss (KM Swiss Coffee). I did the wallpaper and paint while my son handled the miter saw. We didn't have enough clamps to glue the moulding to more than one door at a time, and since the glue took 30 minutes to set it all took a while.

The steps are all documented in sheesharee's link below, as well as in Rhoda's blog that she's linked. If anyone has any questions I'll be glad to answer them

It's not a perfect job, but we're very happy with the change from boring to polished.

Still to do: some touch-up painting of the woodwork, add door knobs, and repaint the walls of the laundry room.

Before - boring doors:

The laundry chute door:

After wallpaper, adding moulding


Laundry chute door:

Here is a link that might be useful: Sheesharee's original post


clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 12:51 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 12:51 pm

RE: My weekend beadboard wallpaper project/laundry room (pics) (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: annkathryn on 03.27.2010 at 01:44 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hockeymom here's a picture of the cabinet edge. My camera doesn't take very good close-ups, sorry. You can see a slight line between the frame and the cabinet. That line could probably be made invisible by a more skilled woodworker. I didn't worry about it too much because you can't see any of the edges straight on due to how the walls are around the cabinets.


clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 12:49 pm

RE: Before and After - Avocado Bathroom Update (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: equest17 on 07.31.2009 at 06:58 pm in Home Decorating Forum

You all have really made my day! I wish now that I had finished all the details like the valance and the faucets so you could get the whole picture. We're young and have more energy and ideas than money most of the time, but I'm so glad to know it doesn't show!

As far as the details, I cleaned the counter well with a green scrubbing pad and homemade scouring powder (baking soda, borax, and salt), but any abrasive cleanser should work. I rinsed and wiped it down, then trimmed away some of the excess caulk around the sinks. I brushed on a coat of SW Adhesion Primer. Its pretty thin and goes a very long way, so a quart should be plenty. I let it dry overnight, but that might not be necessary. In the morning, I did two coats of satin base color SW Harmonic Tan. I didnt tape off for this, since I wanted to get really close to the wall and sinks. I let this dry for a day as well; again, that might be overkill, but I wanted to make sure everything was fully cured. I used blue painters tape along the wall and around the sinks after the base coat was set.

I bought a set of two sea sponges at Hobby Lobby; one was bigger and softer, the other smaller and a bit stiffer. I picked acrylic paints that coordinated with my fabric; I used Americana brand Raw Umber and Camel and Anitas All Purpose brand Black, Safari Taupe, and Olive Green. I dampened the large sea sponge, dipped it in the paint on a paper plate, and smeared it around on the plate to get off the excess. I dabbed on the black first, then raw umber, and then the lighter colors. Use a light pouncing motion and dont let it smear or it looks unrealistic.

I didnt wait long enough for each color to set at first and it started to look a bit muddied. So I sponged the base color on very generously over the whole thing to reset the stage a bit. This worked really well, but if I had waited longer between paints, it might not have been necessary. Then again, it might be what gave me such a realistic look! I went back over with all the colors again using the smaller, stiffer sponge to break up any big blotches of color and get into the tight places. I used very little green and khaki (Safari Taupe), just little bits here and there to tie in the room colors. The black, raw umber, and Harmonic Tan base coat were really the key players. I think you could use these paints and add an accent color or two of any muted shade and make it work with other fabrics or dcor.

After it all dried, I used three coats of water based polyurethane. It left some brush strokes I wasnt thrilled with, so I may experiment with a different product or application method if there is a next time. Also, I would recommend removing the painters tape before the poly coat if you have a steady hand. I neglected to and the tape peeled off a bit of the poly in some places.

Well, thats it in a nutshell. Hope that wasnt too many details, but since I had to figure it out as I went, I wanted to share as much as possible. Heres a close up picture so you can see the mix of colors.



clipped on: 10.13.2009 at 11:46 am    last updated on: 10.13.2009 at 11:46 am

RE: Window cornices done! Finishing touches? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: equest17 on 04.23.2009 at 10:17 pm in Home Decorating Forum

The following is the instruction sheet from the workshop on foam cornice boards I co-taught at the county extension office. Since it was just a handout meant to accompany the class, it might be a bit hard to following without a demonstration. Let me know if anything is unclear.

A plywood cornice would be similar, except you need woodworking tools and would use a staple gun to assemble and upholster. I actually use my pneumatic stapler with 3/8" staples to attach the fabric to the foam cornice; it's much faster than pins and holds well as long as you angle the gun when you shoot. A hand stapler doesn't work on foam, so unless you have upholstery tools, pinning as the sheet describes would be best. (One nice thing about pinning to foam is you can easily remove the fabric later and recover the cornice if you tire of the original look.) If you have access to it, a half-thickness sheet of Dacron wrap is a little better than quilt batting, but the latter is cheap and easy to find.

You can do scalloped or profiled bottom edges with the cornice, also. Just trace your design onto the front valance and cut it out with the utility knife. You'll have to clip the fabric a lot to go around curves when you pin/staple it, so something that doesn't ravel is best. I found that fabric with a bit of stretch is actually great for this. The little girl's cornice I did below used a knit plush material and had enough give to pull tightly around the curves without puckering.




1. 4 x 8 sheet of 1/2" foam core insulation board (available at Home Depot or Lowes)
2. Hot glue gun and glue sticks
3. Straight pins (both standard dressmaker pins and small ball head straight pins (size 17 is about 1 1/16" long)
4. High or extra high loft quilt batting (enough for one layer over front, sides, and top of cornice)
5. Spray adhesive
6. Decorator fabric (optional fringe or trim, if desired)
7. Utility knife, straight edge, marker
8. 2"-3" long 90 degree angle brackets

Measuring Cornice:

For each cornice, you will create the following four (4) pieces from foam core board as instructed below:
One (1) front valance
Two (2) end pieces (or "returns")
One (1) top

1. Determine height of front valance face (generally between 10" - 18", based on window size, ceiling height, or other personal preferences).
2. Determine length of front valance (be sure to allow extra width if hanging curtains underneath); if your desired length is over 8 feet (the widest dimension of the foam core board), you will splice pieces as described assembly steps below.
3. Determine side depth from wall, called the return (2"-4" if no curtains underneath, 6" or more if mounting over curtains)
4. Top piece will be same depth as side piece and 1" longer than front valance width


1. Using straight edge, mark desired dimensions on white side of foamboard; score with box cutter or utility knife, snap along line, and cut through aluminum skin if necessary.
* For a cornice over 8 feet, you will need to join foam pieces to create each front valance and top panel. Cut the lengths for the front face and top out of as many pieces as necessary. Lay the pieces flat and hot glue the edges together to form one length. Cut a wide strip of thin cardboard (cereal box, etc.) and hot glue it over the seam on both sides.
2. Lay front valance aluminum side up and hot glue return ends on left and right edges with aluminum side in. Insert dressmaker pins from the outside of return ends into the cut edge of front valance to reinforce glued joints (about every 2").
3. Glue and pin top to front valance and end pieces with aluminum side facing in to make a three sided box, white on the outside and shiny aluminum on the inside (this reflects more light to brighten the window, but if you accidentally glue it the other way, it won't really matter). If the front face and top lengths both have a seam, try to offset the seams so they don't align.
4. On interior of cornice box, "caulk" the seams with a thick bead of hot glue to reinforce. Allow to dry.
5. Spray adhesive on exterior of foam core and apply batting. Trim batting to leave just a small amount to wrap over the cut foam edge. Cut out excess batting on corners so there is only a single layer; do not fold batting over itself.
6. Center decorator fabric over batting and begin stretching and smoothing from the center out. Secure fabric with ball head pins inserted in foam at a steep angle (almost parallel with the foam) with the points facing the outer edge of the foam and the ball head aligned with the cut fabric edge. Continue out to the ends of the cornice, folding and cutting as necessary.
7. At top corners, fold excess fabric like a big dart (miter) so that there is a straight fold running parallel to the cornice frame edge where top and side end pieces are joined.
8. Attach any desired trim or embellishment to the cornice fabric. Double cording can be pinned along the bottom edge with dressmaker or applique pins pushed straight up into the cut foam edge or cording or flat trim can be hot glued to the face.
9. To mount cornice, screw angle brackets into the wall above the window at the desired height. Hang cornice on brackets and use a short push pin or thumb tack on the inside to secure to angle bracket.


clipped on: 04.24.2009 at 11:03 am    last updated on: 04.24.2009 at 11:03 am

RE: Framing around bath mirror (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mclarke on 06.27.2007 at 05:43 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Okay, here goes.

You will need:

- a mitre saw or a mitre box w/saw
- a small hand saw or coping saw (a hacksaw will also work)
- Elmer's wood glue
- paint (I used acrylic latex, craft paint and spray lacquer for a gloss finish)
- small nails
- hammer
- drill
- four corner clamps (Home Depot)
- a 1/2" wood chisel (Home Depot)
- four metal mirror clips (Home Depot)
- clear silicone caulk or silicone aquarium sealer

First, buy a set of metal mirror clips. You'll find these in Home Depot in the "Picture Framing" section. They come two to a package. I used 3/8" clips. The size of the clips is determined by the thickness of your mirror glass. Use the smallest you can get that will hold your mirror to the wall. This is the secret to "working around" the plastic clips, LOL.

Remove the plastic clips and replace them with the metal clips. No, wait -- actually, put the metal clips on FIRST and THEN remove the plastic clips, so the mirror doesn't fall off the wall, LOL.

Depending on the size of your mirror, you might want to use mollies with the clips. (My mirrors are resting on backsplashes, so I wasn't too worried about them falling.) If you use mollies, make sure you get the kind that are flush to the wall.

You're using metal clips because they have a much lower profile. This will be important later.

Two clips on the top and two on the bottom should suffice.

Next, measure the mirror and buy your trim. Give yourself about a foot extra on each side, because you'll have to cut it down for the mitered corners.

Make sure the trim you buy is not warped. You can do this by laying the pieces on the floor at the store. The pieces should lie flat on the floor.

NOTE: You are going to paint and assemble the frame BEFORE you put it up.

Paint the trim BEFORE you cut it. When painting long trim pieces, make sure you put a base coat on BOTH SIDES, front and back, even though you are only going to see one side. If you only paint one side, the wood will warp. (I found THAT out the hard way, LOL.) You can do this if you lay the trim on a couple of paint cans as you paint.

When you have the paint and finish the way you want it, carefully measure your mirror. (If you're new at this sort of thing, you might want to make a mockup of cardboard or craftpaper first, to get the measurements exact.) Remember, you want the edge of the glass to fall about halfway under the frame.

Measure and mark the wood, and carefully cut your four pieces, mitering the corners at 45 degrees.

Sand the cut edges till they're smooth. Don't worry about little chips in your paint, you'll touch these up later.

Before you glue the corners, drill small nail holes in the side corners of the two side pieces only. Drill all the way through. (You will put little nails here after the frame is assembled, for added strength and to prevent twisting.)

Lay the four pieces on a flat surface. (I use the floor) Put the corner clamps at each corner, adjusting them until you're satisfied with all four corners.

Now release the corners, one at a time, applying glue to the edges that will join, and return the corners to the clamp, tightening each corner, one at a time, wiping away excess glue as you go.

Leave the frame to dry over night.

In the morning, remove the corner clamps carefully.

Put four small nails into your four nailholes. Countersink the heads, and if they are going to show, fill them.

With fine sandpaper or steel wool, smooth off any flaws. Using an artist's brush, touch up any part of the corners that need to be touched up. Let this dry.

Try your frame onto the mirror. You will see that the frame still doesn't lie quite flat to the mirror because of the clips. Using a pencil, mark the back of the frame where the clips interfere with the frame.

Using a small handsaw and the wood chisel, chip away just enough wood from the back of the frame so that the frame will lie flat to the mirror. This is easier than it sounds... it's a very small bit of wood and you don't have to be too delicate about it because it's on the back of the frame and no one will ever see it.

When you've chipped out your four small bits of wood, the frame should now lie flat to the glass!

Clean the mirror and the back of the frame very well. Apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the back of the frame -- not too close to the inner edge, because you don't want the silicone to show in the mirror -- and press the frame to the glass.

Stand there and hold the frame to the mirror for twelve hours.

Okay, not really. This last bit is kind of hard to describe... I contrived several lengths of scrap wood and gallon paint cans as braces to hold the frame pressed to the wall until it cured.

I wish I had pictures of the process, sorry.

I hope I haven't scared anyone off. Let me know if I've been too obscure and I'll try and help.

Good luck and let me know how you do!


clipped on: 12.29.2008 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2008 at 10:52 pm

Easy to sew valance directions

posted by: my3dogs on 07.17.2008 at 08:01 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi everyone!

Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it.

This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness.

I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up!

Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam.

You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching.

I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN!

Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there.

Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side.

Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side.
Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets!

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.)

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one.

Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties.

Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!)

Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching.

Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this.

Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance.

Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want.

You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower...

This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them!

Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions


clipped on: 07.18.2008 at 01:52 pm    last updated on: 07.18.2008 at 01:52 pm

RE: What would you do to hide this? (Follow-Up #52)

posted by: annz on 07.04.2008 at 01:32 am in Home Decorating Forum forgot the " marks. They go before the 'http' and after 'here'.


clipped on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm

RE: What would you do to hide this? (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: terriks on 07.03.2008 at 11:48 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Okay, it's time for me to repost the HTML instructions to make a clickable link:



clipped on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2008 at 03:39 pm

RE: Can this sideboard be saved? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: moonshadow on 03.11.2008 at 01:16 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I was thinking what mom2 was; if termite damage isn't bad, just fill the holes with wood filler or putty. You can even get it in colors to closely match the existing stain so it might not even be noticeable. (Take a drawer to HD and check the flooring section, they have some pretty good tinted fillers made for hardwood flooring. Or check your local independent paint dealer or hardware.)

I've refinished a lot of furniture, and honestly from what I see in the photo that piece does not warrant stripping and refinishing. Working with antique laminates can get tricky, some are more delicate or fragile from age, storage, etc.

I use Restore-A-Finish for pieces that don't warrant a full refinish job. For that piece I'd suggest Walnut tint or Mahogany. (Cherry is too red, imho). Sears Hardware has the best selection of tints I've found, my Ace carries it too. Clean the wood well first. I like Formby's Deep Cleansing Build-Up Remover, or if not terribly dirty just a mild dishwashing liquid in water. (No Murphy's Oil soap, it can gunk up the finish on wood.) If you opt for detergent/water, don't saturate the rag with water, wring it out well.

Once clean and dry go on to the RAF. This stuff is really potent smelling and if you can do it outside in the garage, better. I've done stuff inside in winter, but had to use a fan in the window set as exhaust, pulling the odor out of the room. You can either wipe RAH on with a rag or super fine (Grade #0000) steel wool. Wipe only in the direction of the wood grain with steel wool and test first, underside or inconspicuous area would be good. Let the RAF sit for a bit, it will give the color a boost, then wipe per instructions on can. There are further instructions at Howard's web site. Protect the floor too. I cut up contractor (thick) garbage bags if I don't have a painter's tarp on hand, then layer with lots of newspaper.

Follow up with a good paste wax (only need to do that once a year or so). Don't use polishes in the mean time, just dust it. ;) I like Howard's Beeswax or Trewax, although if you search the furniture forum for "paste wax" in recent months another good one was recommended. (Meant to save that post, darn it!)

At the risk of showing this again, this is a vintage Penn House hutch (40's -early 50's) I got on eBay. Seller's original photo and my photo after I did my cleaning & RAF routine on it.

Seller's Before Photo:

My After (I started out with Cherry RAF, too much red, so switched to Mahogany)


clipped on: 04.03.2008 at 11:16 am    last updated on: 04.03.2008 at 11:17 am

RE: cheap kitchen floor that doesn't _look_ cheap? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: breiaj on 03.25.2007 at 01:11 pm in Flooring Forum

The vinyl tiles, although they aren't everyone's first choice, can be one of the best solutions for your situation. I have installed several floors using these tiles, and it's a "do-it-yourself if you can use scissors" kind of project. There are slate looking products at both HD and Lowes that are magnificent at hiding any dirt. I think I used the HD Morrocan slate pattern.. (or something like that..) last time, and if you don't feel like it, you really don't have to clean it because it's the color of dirt anyway :-)The one I used also had a 25 year warranty, and that's a good selling feature for your house. I have this product in my own kitchen...(that's how I know about the dirt thing) and I am a real estate investor, and have had great success installing and and selling this product in my properties. You may want to try a flooring specialty store for more choices, but I have had some really nice results from the Home Depot stuff....and, it's about .99 per square foot. Most of these tiles at the Home Depot or Lowes are self stick..the more expensive designer tiles are not (usually) So here are my best tips to moron- proof your project. 1.)Buy a little extra for uhh..scissorical errors 2.)Start in the center of the room, and lay out a row of tile. When you get to the last tile on each end of the row, you might need to make an adjustment..what I mean is this: if on one side of your room you need to cut a very small piece of tile, you might want to adjust it so that the ending tile on each side of the row is even. I install the entire first row and then use it as my guide. 3.) *Most important and best tip* Self stick tiles are surprisingly self stick..that is very bad for installers who aren't fully confident in their sticking abilities. You accidentally mis-stick that puppy and he's there to stay..or, a pain to lift..not so bad if you do it once, but chances are you'll do it a lot. Most of the vinyl floors I see installed, it's pretty obvious that by the third or fourth mis-stick the installer said..."well, it will just have to stay that will look more realistic with the bigger cracks anyway" not good, not true, and certainly not beneficial for the resale of your house :-) So, here's what you do: buy yourself a few nice paint brushes..try to get the ones that the bristles don't pull out too easily, and make sure you buy a few....don't bother trying to clean them, it's not worth the hassle..and the cheap paintbrushes will make this consider the destruction of three $17 paintbrushes a casualty of a successfully waged war against anti-do-it-yourself-dom. I buy a vinyl floor adhesive, I think last time I used an Armstrong product. Keep in mind..the Home Depot or Lowes associates will look at you like you're mad if you ask them to recommend an adhesive product for a self-stick floor you may want to locate this product on your own... to avoid being reported to the vinyl flooring police. I am quite sure this was in a white bucket with blue lettering and a lighter blue background..but that could have been the carpet stuff..or maybe it was carpet and vinyl in one...I can't remember. Anyway, pretty much any vinyl sheet/tile adhesive in a bucket (never a tube!) will do.
The tiles will come with a paper backing, and if you need to cut the tile, leave the paper on while you do that. Otherwise, peel the paper off, and put a very very thin coat of the adhesive on the back. The adhesive will tell you to use a trowel..don't!! It'll ooze up through the cracks and you don't want to have to clean it up (goo-gone will do it for small mishaps, but you don't want have to mop with it) The reason the instructions say to use a trowel is because you need more adhesive for non-self-stick floors, and that's what the adhesive is made for. The adhesive will do several things for you and the new home will allow you to position, slide, or reposition your tiles as you go...and your installation will be cracks. Also, the floor will be stuck much better for longer. The self stickers do lose their stick sometimes, and this extra adhesive is double-duty fabulous for both installation and life of the floor. Tip #4: I install the center of the floor cutting any tiles...just breeze through the center..peel, paint, position. The edges are the worst part, but you can use some paper to help make templates for really tricky spots..that way you cut the paper a few times but the vinyl only once. This helps to add additional "you can do it" reassurance to your project. Also...depending on your base moulding..the adhesive may allow you to slide the tile under the edges a bit...a welcome treat from time to time..less fancy cuts.
The vinyl doesn't look cheap...because it imparts a warmth to the floor..the tiles that are shiny white with fake green marble patterns..those are horrible, as are most of the high gloss peel and stickers...I think what really gives this product it's character is it's low shine and natural looking colors...and, it will really bring out your woodwork. Bring a few home to compare against the wood and your counter top..and it's hard to go wrong. You should get a great looking floor, for about $500..and a boost to your DIY ego. The ceramic is a great product as well, but costly for the install and very tough to do it yourself. Let me know if you need more info!


clipped on: 03.03.2008 at 11:24 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2008 at 11:24 pm

Details (Follow-Up #30)

posted by: nodirthere on 02.06.2008 at 05:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Wow- Thank you all so much for all your wonderful compliments! I never did a forum before and have learned so much from all of you-hope I can give some knowledge back. Many have asked for details so here they are- I hope this will save someone else some time. In full disclosure,my painter did everything but the glazing and design work and leg work- he did a fabulous job achieving the result I wanted. I wanted a more French country feel and did not want to see the oak grain at all.(I felt that would look less elegant and more rustic)
This was the process on the cabinet doors (taken off)-product sprayed on unless otherwise noted:
1. coat of Insl-x STIX Primer
2. Spackled smooth coat of MH Ready patch by Zinsser (this was after an attempt w/a wood filler that proved to not fill the grain as much as I wanted- I wanted a piano finish, I'm sure there is something out there that would be easier, and there are lots of fillers we found, but they would not fill ALL the grain, so we went right to the MH.)
3. Sanded w/hand sander -start out bigger grit end end w/fine-(120)
4. Coat of Insl-x Stix Primer (this stuff really works)
5. 2-3 coats of Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo-
Custom color Formula:
Pastel base 314-1B-1
6. Hand glaze-Custom color Benjamin Moore Glaze
I used medium size sponge brushes and lots of paper towels-(use Viva -all the difference in the world!)- you could use cotton rags, but I found the viva was the easiest in keeping the rest of the cabinet clean by changing them out frequently.
There were so many coats of stuff that it made my corners less than 45 degrees and difficult to wipe the glaze on then wipe off leaving the glaze in the edge of cabinet trim. I had to create the line by painting it on w/pointy sponge tips and dragging it along the line. This is kind of hard to explain-think of when you are caulking and go back and smooth it out and the caulk stays in the corner of your line w/ a nice finish on the outside- same thing-I ran into problems when the corners got filled w/too much coatings and had to "create" the line- our else I would go back and wipe the whole line off.
Hope I'm explaining this ok-I did try brushes but found it easier to drag the glaze than brush it- I kept thinking there had to be a better way, but never did find one (it was about 45 min each cabinet). I only did the trim corners- I did not do the whole cabinet w/ a washed glaze effect- I have seen it but didn't think I wanted that much "aging" -and wasn't THAT confident in my abilities.
Other details- all trim work was hardwood not oak, since we were painting it anyway-saved lots of $ w/ that.
The "table legs" on the island are actually newall post for stairs sold at minards for $30, w/the ball cut off the top- hugely cheeper than buying an island leg!
The corner spindles are actually $12 wall corner guards from Minards and Home Depot. Wasn't sure about them and haven't glazed them yet because of that-now I'm just getting use to them. Filled in the difference between bead board and corner w/spackle-smoothed it out.
Beadboard just the big sheets-tried glazing it but just looked way too "stripey" and wanted to minimize the country look so left it alone.
Granite is Uba Tuba-ogee edge- I am so glad I did the slight archon the island and little scallop in- last minute idea and it really made a difference.
Base trim- hemmed and hawed getting rid of the toe kick-especially w/ cream cabs- but so glad I did -all for that furniture look.
Glass cabinets were the cabinets above the wall oven-cut out the inside- had my local glass cutter fit some glass to the frame- glass shelf for inside cabinet. Cut 1 foot off the depth of the floor cabinets and reattached to the wall- lost the drawers.
Tile backsplash is acid washed tumbled travertine. The embossed tiles under mw and repeated under the glass cabinets were from Home Depot and ceramic -very inexpensive $3. They even have light switch covers that match the travertine there.
Lighting above and below cabinets are those little round halogen lights from HD.
Ok- that's all the detail I can think of -someone asked how this came to be- I poured through 100's of magazines and websites for a long time- and saved pictures that I liked-also I visited the big stores and took all their cabinet catalogs I could- those really helped w/the wood bridge detail over the window and those details. In painting cabinets you can hide lots of mistakes and miscuts w/ putty and spackle-would do it all over again-
Hope this helps someone save 1 trip back to the hardware store! Thanks again for the kudos-nodirthere (in reference that I do not garden, not the cleanliness of my house- I can assure you my kitchen doesn't look like this today)-Gotta go shovel out -got 12" at least in n. Illinois today......


clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:58 am    last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:15 pm

RE: Before/after pictures-oak to cream/glazed -pictures (Follow-Up #42)

posted by: nodirthere on 02.24.2008 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry it took me so long to get back -my kitchen is 13 ft wide and 13 1/2 ft long. We have 9ft ceilings. We had to take back the cabinets 1 ft for more passage space- I left one tall shelf in those cabinets and I find it is perfect for cereal boxes- the kids eat right at the counter and it is a convenient place for all of the breakfast stuff. The one foot is not alot of counter, but we have used it to set up the wine bar when we entertain- I am having technical difficulties w/my camera at the moment-the eating area is typical-you can see the chandelier in the corner of the pictures and we have a table in front of the sliding door-then it opens to the family room. Good luck w/your remodel. I am really happy w/extra seating-(I have 3 kids)-no regrets giving up the cabinet space- have a wonderful journey-I'll be watching for your pics!


clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:06 pm

RE: Before/after pictures-oak to cream/glazed -pictures (Follow-Up #48)

posted by: nodirthere on 02.26.2008 at 09:15 am in Kitchens Forum

Hockeymom- the island is 26" cabs and the granite is 38" at the widest (it's arched)-the aisles are both 39"- I think the min. suggested is normally 36". It depends on what your layout is, but you may need more behind the stools- the area behind our stools is not part of the kitchen triangle, so it works for us-my stools are "saddle stools" and wide but not deep and fit under the island overhang really well- I like the look of stools w/backs- but they get in the way of serving buffet style food on the island which we do a lot of- My under $10,000 price tag includes everything but the appliances - but I have an awesome painter/handyman who did the majority of the work for $4000- I got a great price on my granite from a local guy-and he included the sink-$3500 installed-the backsplash was $900 installed total-
I fell into some great prices- the granite guy had a bunch of Uba tuba in stock and had the acid wash tumbled travertine in stock for the back splash, so he gave me super prices-I had a great experience working w/ a local guy and he didn't nickel and dime me on the extras on the design like the arch in the island-I think this is an upcharge at HD-(They wanted $7500) for basic cut out. The lights were those halagen puck lights at HD -my painter put them up-don't think this was very hard and less than $200.
debbie- my lights were there before -we didn't change them- I think they are (something)Feiss (sp)-can't remember the first part of the mnf. name -they are over 6 years old-I have a friend that got them at Expo (I got them at a local lighting co)is it holly feiss, molly feiss....the memory is going-sorry


clipped on: 02.26.2008 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 02.26.2008 at 12:00 pm

RE: Cleaning old wood furniture (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: johnmari on 02.03.2008 at 03:32 pm in Home Decorating Forum

The very very first thing to do is just go over the wood with a soft rag that's just dampened with tepid water and a very mild soap. (If it hasn't been finished with polyurethane, this IS one of the good uses of Murphy's oil soap.) Wipe gently. Use a baby toothbrush or q-tip for carved areas. Repeat with clear water and wipe dry. This will likely remove a surprising amount of dirt. If it's something that has been waxed and has developed a build-up, the wax may cause products like Howard's or Old English to cover unevenly. (Found this out the hard way.) Liberon Wax and Polish Remover is fantastic for getting a thick build-up of wax and dirt off. Then you can go at it with one of your other products.


clipped on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am

RE: Cleaning old wood furniture (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ladynimue on 02.02.2008 at 03:28 pm in Home Decorating Forum

If they're scratched or marred or dull, then try some Restor A Finish put on with 4 aught (0000) steel wool, after you clean them. I did this in my bathroom on 20yo cabinets and they look almost brand new + their color didn't change. It even took out some pretty major scratches (like the groves my ds made when he took off the handles).

It costs about $6 and comes in many different wood tones, including mahogany - and it's permanent, unlike the oil in in Old English (which I do like for cleaning, but I used Minwas Wood Cleaner).


clipped on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 02.06.2008 at 10:32 am

RE: Countertop Redo - Thanks for photoshop help! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: gr82bgrammy on 06.12.2007 at 01:15 am in Home Decorating Forum

Wow! Ya'll know how to make a girl feel good! Thanks for the complements! It was all about a quick change, saving some money, and as the story goes about the Little Engine That Could "I think I can, I think I can"!

My friends say that I will redo anything with a little paint! I thought I had pics that I made to show the steps, but I must have deleted them.

WARNING: THIS PROCESS WILL TAKE ABOUT A WEEK TO FULLY CURE! I suggest you put the base coat on after dinner one night and start the faux painting in the morning, as it will take most of the day and you can't get it wet during the painting process. Also, you need to make arrangements not to use the counters for a few days. DO NOT GET COUNTER WET UNTIL YOU HAVE 4 COATS OF POLY ON IT AND THE LAST COAT HAS SET AT LEAST 24 HOURS! This will ensure that your counter has fully dried and poly has had time to harden. I continued to be very careful not to let water sit on the countertop for about a week.

Here's what I did:

1. Scrubbed the old counters clean and cleaned out any gunk around the metal trimwork with a toothpick.

2. Taped off the sink, walls and metal trim at top of backsplash area.

3. Gave a good coat of primer. I used Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Water Based Primer and applied with a small sponge roller. Let dry overnight.

4. Put on 1st coat of paint. I used a black acrylic craft paint and applied it with a small foam roller. Let dry about 2 hours.

5. For the faux finish, I used paint I had on hand - a taupe latex wall paint, white latex wall paint, and a brown craft paint. In a large plastic plate, randomly drizzle small amounts of several colors of paint leaving open space between colors. On top of the colored paints, drizzle waterbased glazing liquid. I used SW Illusions latex based, clear.

4. Dampen a fist sized piece of natural sea sponge in water and wring out well. Dab the sponge randomly into the paint/glaze mixture and then blot a couple times in an empty plate to take off some of the paint.

5. Dab paint onto your base coated counter top in random pattern. Make sure you twist your hand with each dab, so that the pattern of paint is varied and sort of smeared.

IMPORTANT: to get the effect I did, and not a 1980's sponge painted look, you MUST TWIST YOUR WRIST as you dab paint onto the counter. That sort of smears the paint a little, creating a more natural look than a straight on sponging method. Believe me - I tried the other way first - it looked very FAKE! I experimented a little and came up with this technique. You can see the results are more realistic this way.

6. Continue dabbing into paint, dabbing off on another paint, and dabbing with a twist onto counter top until entire surface has been randomly "sponged" with color. Let this dry an hour or so.

IMPORTANT: If your paint starts to get too muddled on your paint palette plate or the sponge, get a new plate and re-drizzle colors and glaze. You can also rinse sponge out if needed. The main thing is, you don't want all the colors to blend in together too much. You need to be able to see some variation in the colors on your surface, but you want the colors somewhat smeared. I hope this makes sense.

7. Get a clean paint palette plate and drizzle your base color, in my case black, and then drizzle glazing liquid on top of that. Clean your sponge out and squeeze well. Then, apply a layer of the base coat to the counter using the same dab on, dab off on another plate, then dab on counter with a smear technique that you applied the color with. Go over entire countertop using this technique, being sure that you don't cover up all the color, just make it all blend well. Let this dry an hour or so.

8. Stand back and look at the over all effect. Do you like what you see? If so, great! After this dries 24 hours, you are ready for the poly.

If not, you can repeat the steps above using any of the colors you need to dab on in places. Make sure you drizzle some of the glaze over the color on your plate. The glaze helps the colors to blend. Top it all off with the base coat and glaze to soften the colors.

9. Let your faux painted countertop dry at least 24 hours after finishing that process.

10. Now you are ready for the poly. I used Minwax Water Based Polycrylic protective finish. It took about a quart to do my 12' section of countertop. I used the water based because I was told the oil based will yellow over time. If I had it to do over again, I would use the oil based Poly because it dries much harder and you don't have to baby the countertop at all. Since I used a dark base coat, it wouldn't matter if the topcoat yellowed some.

Using the water based, I do have to be careful not to let water set too long or the finish will get a cloudy white look on it. When it dries, the counter is clear again. I plan to put a couple coats of the oil based poly on top of my counter soon for added protection.

If you are using a dark base color, I suggest you save yourself some trouble and use the oil base poly right from the start! The directions will be the same except I'd buy extra rollers and throw them away between coats instead of cleaning them with mineral spirits!

Another thing, I tried several different types of applicators for the poly. I wanted a very smooth and even coat. The small foam roller gives the smoothest coats.

Okay, how to apply the poly:
1. Stir the poly well and pour out into a small paint pan. Apply poly on a small foam roller and apply an even coat to each section of countertop, being careful not to reroll an area (this causes bubbles in the poly). Keep the roller wet and try not to overlap the edge of wet poly too much when you make each pass. Do one section of counter at a time. It is much better to do several thin coats than to do thick coats. Let counter dry as directed on poly can. Mine instructed to dry 2 hours between coats.

2. When 1st coat of poly is dry, sand lightly with very fine sandpaper or a sanding sponge. I used the sanding sponge and it worked very well. Don't be afraid that you'll remove all the poly. You won't. The sanding is required to get the smooth surface that is desired. It also helps the next coat of poly to adhere well. Don't skip the sanding!!! Wipe all sanding dust off counter with a damp cloth. Wipe again for good measure! You can wrap a ziplock bag around roller to keep it fresh for next coat.

3. Apply a second coat of poly rolling in the opposite direction of the first coat. Remember not to roll over wet surface and don't overlap much. Let this coat dry as directed and repeat the sanding process. Wipe clean.

4. Continue steps 1 and 2 until you have 4 coats of poly on counter. Sand one last time. You should have a very smooth surface now.

5. Let the counter sit undisturbed for several days for the poly to harden. I made the mistake of letting some glasses dry on a towel on the counter the second day after finishing them and the water based poly softened in that area. I have a few little blemishes there from the towel. Don't do that. Be patient and enjoy your results! You can do it!!!

Everybody that has seen my counters have been amazed that I did it myself with paint. It really looks good and everybody thinks I got new counters until I show them the indention from the previous burned area! Since I did this, I found out I could have filled that place in with wood filler or bondo. Oh well, I just say it's a 100 year old house, it took years to get this much character!

If you take on this project, please send me before and after photos. Also feel free to email me if you have other questions about the process.



clipped on: 06.12.2007 at 10:37 am    last updated on: 06.12.2007 at 10:39 am