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SW Proclassic Semi-gloss - too many brush marks, what to do?

posted by: snowang on 04.18.2014 at 02:08 pm in Paint Forum

My carpenter built two built-in bookcases with bottom cabinet doors for my basement and I researched high and low for a good paint that will come out smoothly and professionally. Based on the recommendations of many posts and blogs, I went with Sherwin Williams Pro classic semi-gloss water-based. My carpenter applied one coat of SW Premium Wall and Wood Primer, and two coats of the Pro classic, and sanded after each coat. He used the best brushes for this type of application (not sure of the brand). The result looked awful, with many brush marks. I went back to SW and got some XIM x-tender and a Purdy 2.5" brush. He tried adding a little to a lot of the x-tender and that didn't make much difference. The paint still goes on too thick and sanding (using fine sanding paper) doesn't seem to smooth it out. What other techniques should we try? Now that we've done 2 coats, would a third coat make any difference? Try spraying just for the doors (would be too messy for the frame but those aren't that visible in normal light)?

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clipped on: 04.29.2014 at 10:14 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2014 at 10:16 pm

RE: Cabinet color question & salvaging old cabinets for reno (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: CEFreeman on 03.14.2014 at 12:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

You have absolutely nothing to lose by trying to strip a door.
1) yes, I've seen cream with natural wood frames and it's usually gorgeous. Surprisingly so.
2) Stripping.

Take a door off.
Get Citristrip or Soygel. None of the evil, flesh-eating chemicals that take 18 coats and tons of scraping and sanding.
You don't need space suites or even gloves for these products. I SWEAR by it. 18 antique doors, 11 cabinets of varying finishes and ages later, I am here to tell you how not to waste your time or fumigate your family. My stuff is down to gorgeous, bare, unstained, un-crapped-out wood. Some oak, maple, cherry, I think birch and goodness knows what they've used over the years.

Coat a door thickly. Like you're frosting cake vs. painting it on. Even though it says it takes about 15 minutes, leave it on. It does start to bubble and you'll get all excited, but if you dig at it now, you'll probably need yet another application for just the paint.
Leave it alone overnight. Really, resist the urge to poke at it.
I also suggest cutting up some grocery bags and pressing them over the citristrip. It holds the stripper against the paint, permitting it to continue to work at it -- but you don't have to. But no peeking.

You'll see the paint start to lift in ribbons. It is FABULOUS. And very exciting. Look at the pic below. This is before I knew I didn't need to bother with gloves. This old paint is coming off in sheets!
The next morning (or 8 hours later), you can squeegee the goop into another plastic garbage bag and toss it.
Now, take another coat of Citristrip and put it on evenly, but thickly. This will suck any residual stain right out of the wood. No joke.
I'd leave this on for a couple hours. Squeegee it off again. A credit card does just fine. A toothpick or something pointy gets into any detail, but this is where it worked the best for me, and lifted old paint right out of the crevices. Do NOT use a wire brush, because the wood will be softened.

Important: Use a scrubbie and water to neutralize it and get the residual stuff off the door. I was doing this and it was working beautifully! I do it outside in the driveway with a hose, although I've stripped my cabinets in place. A small blurb on the website discussing stain removal says water, but even their customer support (Nick) was horrified and insisted mineral spirits. If you use mineral spirits, you stand a good chance of reliquifying old stain and having it soak back into the wood. Mine also turned magenta. Bright, Easter egg magenta. Crayola magenta. Really, really bright magenta. (got it?) It was 100 year old stain soaking right back into my beautiful wood.

The thing to be careful of is using something sharp to scrape. (No wire brush!) Be gentle, because leaving this stuff on so long makes the wood softer and you can gouge it.

So anyway, I think this stuff is almost fun. If you get it on you, don't freak. It doesn't hurt. Doesn't remove color from clothing (where I wipe my hands) and if the stain gets on your hands, rub some on like lotion, wait a minute and wash your hands. Done.

You'll save a lot of $$ and decision making if you just try one door. Heck, if you're in the DC area, I'll do it for you. It's totally cool.

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clipped on: 03.27.2014 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 03.27.2014 at 09:30 am

RE: Yellow help!! (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: funcolors on 10.21.2013 at 04:41 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

If the BM fan deck cards are any indication of undertones (by looking at the most saturated color per section?)

Paint companies, including BenM, do not order their color by undertones for several reasons but these are the two most critical:

1. Undertone is revealed when the medium (paint) is spread at different thicknesses or rates. Fine Artists will leverage undertones to get multiple effects from one color. All architectural paint brands specify a spread rate or consistent thickness for the paint film; it's never spread thickly or thinly where an undertone (if there is one) could be leveraged. The goal with architectural paints is one, very even application of paint film.

2. a. Some colors do not have an undertone. b. Undertone isn't a measurable attribute of color. Ask a color scientist about undertone and he/she will ask you to clarify what you mean by undertone before they'll even attempt to speak to it. That's because the concept of undertone isn't a consistent, measurable, repeatable factor of color.

Undertones are not attributes of architectural paint nor any industry that uses a professional color order system - like flooring, textiles, counter tops, etc. for the reasons above plus many more.

There are a handful of professional color order systems that a manufacturer can choose from. They're all slightly different. But all of them have one very important thing in common which is their fandecks or palettes are ordered by color family.

Both the Classic Colors deck and the Color Preview deck start with red. Red, Yellow-Red (orange), Yellow, Green-Yellow, Green, Blue-Green, Blue, Purple-Blue, Purple, Red-Purple.

It's important to note that color strips and fandecks are not ordered for any kind of color scheming or color coordination purposes.

However, they are indeed in color family order and by looking at the position of You Are My Sunshine and Ambiance in the deck, you can see that the are both located closer to the Yellow-Red (orange) family, right before the start of the Yellow family color chips. Which means they both will have more of a yellow-red hue bias than a yellow hue bias.

Unlike undertone, every color has an identifiable hue bias. Because every color belongs to a color family.

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clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 10:54 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 10:55 pm

considering a toekick drawer for a step stool- Y or N?

posted by: lori_inthenw on 01.24.2014 at 01:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I bought one of those super-slim ones from Williams-Sonoma on sale last month. I'm not short (5'8") but we will have a tall fridge, plus cabs to ceiling. I don't anticipate needed access frequently, so the other possibility is storing the stool around the corner in the mechanical room.

I just brought up the subject with our cabinetmaker. He wants to know how I would want to open it. Would the "springy" openers that you just press with your foot open it up the whole 3" so you could reach in? If so, what specific hardware? Or what are the other options? A tiny unobtrusive handle? It would look odd to bring that toe-kick forward, wouldn't it? Maybe some hardware is springier than others?

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Toe kick discussion with Pics!
clipped on: 01.25.2014 at 05:08 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2014 at 05:08 pm

RE: Pellet Stoves (Follow-Up #45)

posted by: Craig Ditzenberger (Guest) on 12.08.2007 at 07:31 am in Renewable Energy Forum

One thing I recommend when buying a pellet stove is checking how the pellets arrive at the burn pot. A drop feed auger is better than one that just pushes the pellets to the pot. I have the latter, my parents have the former. BIG difference in maintenance!! The drop feeder needs cleaned maybe once a week. The push feed needs cleaned daily. If I would have known that earlier, I would not have bought this stove.

I purchased it at Lowes. It was around $1200 after I purchased all the other kits ( chimney, fresh air intake kit, etc.), I also installed it myself. Unless you are installing this into an existing chimney, I recommend having it installed. You really need to have experience in room remodeling because it is a lot of work making the hole(s) in the wall.

Home Depot and Lowes purchase low end stoves, so I do not recommend them. I have had issues with mine every year since I purchased it. It is and Englander Stove model 25-PDVC. I have replaced several parts on it already due to frequent shut down errors. So far I have replaced three vaccuum/ shut down switches, an auger, an auger motor and several heat gaskets. I'm not impressed. If you are not mechanically inclined, the task of repair could seem overwhelming.

On a positive note, their customer service is very good. They can walk you through the steps to fix things, but it is very time consuming and the parts are not cheap.

My advice is find a local dealer that installs and services their stoves. That way you know you have backup. Plus most of these stores will buy quality products because they can't afford to be making a lot of house calls for stove repair! :)

Plan on spending close to $2000 minimum. That is the price of a small mid range stove. I have seen them go as high as $5000. With the price of oil and nat. gas on the increase, I think you will get a good return on your investment quickly.

If you have some storage space, purchase pellets in the spring. You can sometimes get them for 1/2 price because they need to get rid of them. I saved $100 on a ton last spring at Home Depot. That sent the price per bag down to $2.72! Hard to beat that! Keep them dry and you're in business!

NOTES:

Pellet stove discussion--drop feeder auger recommended!
clipped on: 12.06.2013 at 01:46 pm    last updated on: 12.06.2013 at 01:47 pm

RE: Replacing my hvac system (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ryanhughes on 11.29.2013 at 03:41 pm in Heating & Air Conditioning Forum

"Trane XR 95 TUH1B080A9421A"

80k btu furnace.

"Trane XV95 2 stage variable speed upflow 4 ton
TUH2C100A9V4VA"

100k btu furnace.

I would start with this discrepancy. With your heat loss figure, both furnaces are technically oversized. Trane does make an 80k XV95 with a 4 ton blower. Don't see why they wouldn't instead propose this model. It doesn't make sense to oversize a 2-stage furnace, rendering it essentially an expensive single-stage furnace that never leaves low fire.

Also, in a dual fuel application with a 2-stage variable speed furnace, you definitely want the Honeywell VisionPRO IAQ thermostat -- properly configured to control both stages of the back-up heat source (in this case the furnace). If they are proposing the TCONT802 in the second configuration, the XV95 will go to high-stage, if needed, based on a timer. Not the best way to get maximum comfort from a 2-stage furnace.

On the Carrier bid, besides the furnace being oversized, the other comment I'll make is you should ask for the all-aluminum evaporator coil (has an "ALA" suffix as opposed to "ATA"). The ATA style is the older tin-plated copper coil, not as reliable as the newer all-aluminum model. Still Trane all-aluminum coils are the best in the industry as far as reliability goes (in my opinion at least).

Best of luck.

This post was edited by ryanhughes on Fri, Nov 29, 13 at 15:50

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Recommendation for thermostat!
clipped on: 12.06.2013 at 10:40 am    last updated on: 12.06.2013 at 10:40 am

RE: Miele floor tool accessory advice (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: geguymw on 01.07.2010 at 05:42 pm in Cleaning Tips Forum

The reason for the accumulation of excessive hair on the bristles is a design issue. Yes, you will have hair buildup on all bristled hair attachments, but moreso on this euro design.

The static charge around the nozzles tubing is from the movement of air. This air movement will also cause static on the outside of plastic. I have found this on other vacuum cleaners around hoses and tubes near the cleaning surface. The build-up, in this area, will decrease with time.

I would suggest that you look into purhacing a good floor brush attachment with soft natural hair bristles. They will not be hard to find. There is no need to purchase a Miele brand, because generics also work. Wessel-Werk is a major attachment supplier. You will find that more and more brands are using WW like Hoover, Electrolux, Riccar, Simplicity, Sebo and yes, Miele.

Purchase a natural-hair brush that has one wheel on the right and left side. This comes in handy with your Miele, because of the heavier weight of the whole vacuum supported on the attachment. European brands use a fit-all diameter of 35mm. Another option is to find the same floor brush with the American 11/4 diameter fitting and also purchase the 35mm European size fitting(35mm to 32mm-1 1/4)adaptor.

Your best bet, for the carpets, is to use a power nozzle for the pet hair. The PN you have now will collect hair mor that others, because of the smaller diameter brushroll and the bristles.

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clipped on: 12.02.2013 at 04:21 pm    last updated on: 12.02.2013 at 04:21 pm

RE: Why Benjamin Moore??? (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: southernstitcher on 09.19.2013 at 11:00 am in Remodeling Forum

Sherwin Williams 40% off sale is this weekend. The only color HD didn't match well in Behr of the BM and SW colors is a complicated Plum Brown. I'm taking the $26 loss on the can of Behr, and going to SW to get this color during the sale. I was amazed at how well they did match the other BM colors from BM's classic line.

I found I really do like the Behr paint. I'm normally a SW or BM person, leaning more towards BM when money allows. The Behr was very thick, which is a real help for an amateur. Last time I used SW on a wall, I got a LOT of off spray from the roller - tiny dots of paint all over the baseboard. I had no idea this had happened till I got right up on it later. I know - I should have protected it better. But, this time, after rolling out the Behr and realizing the tape had come off, I inspected and there were absolutely NO dots of splatter to be found anywhere.
I found the same to be true of BM's Aura line.
I used it in flat for my kitchen. 4 years later, it's still gorgeous, and when I have to scrub - NO color can be seen on the rag after scrubbing. When I have to repaint the kitchen I will absolutely use it again. I probably should have used it for the bathrooms too -- but money would not allow this go round.

NOTES:

Recommendation of BM flat paint in Aura line!
clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:11 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:11 pm

Why Benjamin Moore???

posted by: mshutterbug on 06.05.2013 at 12:00 pm in Remodeling Forum

Hubby and I are remodeling large portions of a new house we purchased 3 months ago. He's a big DIY'er, very budget-conscious and unwilling to pay anyone to do a job he could do himself, and definitely unwilling to pay for a name brand.

He removed the popcorn ceiling, tore down some walls, built some new ones, took out a lowered ceiling in kitchen with funky soffits. The one thing he did hire out was the drywall and new texturing of ceiling. However, when he went to buy paint for the ceiling he started at one of the name brand stores (SW) and was appalled at what they would charge him just for the primer. So he ultimately bought it at a big box store, the generic flat ceiling white, cheapest available I'm sure ;P He is convinced that the name brands are just there to make people spend more money. Well, he was up there working and texted me (we aren't living in the house currently) a couple weeks ago saying the ceiling looked awful and he'd have to repaint it. And yeah, it really does look terrible. lol.

The good news is I kind of wanted to match the ceiling to the trim and the cabinets in the kitchen. I'm planning for a creamy white and don't want a stark white ceiling and trim to look weird. So, I'm headed to the hardware store to pick up some samples of soft white Benjamin Moore paints, since those seem to be what I see mentioned *everywhere*. I mean, seriously, here and on Houzz, it seems like every.single.photo. references BM in the paint color choices.

I've googled it, but can't seem to figure it out. WHY is Benjamin Moore sooooo popular?? Help me convince my husband it will be worth it to spend more. We will be (re)painting all the ceilings, as well as the trim and kitchen cabinets. So I'm a little scared to see how much it will cost! Is it just the color choices? That doesn't seem to be the case... are there other brands or store brands that I can buy to save money but get a comparable final look and quality?

Thanks!

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 12:09 pm

DIY budget elegant bathroom, almost done: pics...

posted by: staceyneil on 02.02.2011 at 10:11 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your support and advice along the way with our latest project... we're ALMOST done but sort of stalled. We just need to add the door threshold and some pretty natural wood shelves above the toilet, but DH has moved on to other woodworking projects, so those little projects have been shoved down the list of priorities. Since it may be months before I get those shelves (and art/decor) up, I thought I'd at least post some pics of the room as it is now. Forgive the crappy lighting: it's snowing hard so there's no natural light :(

Project scope:
1956 bathroom with 1980's/90's tile, vanity, toilet. Tub was original but sadly unsalvageable: the enale was totally wrecked and stained and impossible to clean.
Suspected some subfloor issues due to leaks.
Budget: $2,500. (final total was a bit under $3,000... so we didn't do too badly :))

The layout was awkward, the door swing used so much of the floor space and only allowed a very small vanity. Since this is the hall/guest bath as well as the primary bath for my teenage daughter, we really needed to maximize storage and vanity space. I drew a new plan which involved moving the doorway to the perpendicular wall. As much as my DH balked at adding additional work, he admitted it was TOTALLY the right thing to do once we finished. The room feels SO much bigger now.

OLD BATHROOM and layout:

Some photos from during the renovation... which was planned to take 4 weekends and ended up taking about 6 or 7.....
DD sledge-hammering the old tile down

lots of rot in the subfloor

Self-leveling-compound poured over the radiant floor heat cables in the floor

The shower area waterproofed with Hydroban (LOVE LOVE LOVE that stuff!)

~ ~
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~ ~
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NEW BATHROOM and layout plan:

DETAILS:
Since our budget was soooo tight, and we wanted to use quality materials and get a unique, custom bathroom, we had to get creative!!!

Tile:
I had a small amount (it was mostly random pieces and offcuts) of very $$$ calacatta marble mosaic tiles left over from a previous project that I knew I wanted to use. The other materials were chosen around that starting point. I designed niches to use that tile in, as accent, based on the quantity I had. I used inexpensive white marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot for the shelves.

For the rest of the tile, I needed to use super-cheap stuff (the entire room is tiled to chair-rail height), but I didn't want it to look cheap or ubiquitous. I would have used subways, but DD emphatically vetoed them. It's her bathroom, and we let her have a LOT of design input. Since we have other areas in the house that use square tile in a running-bond pattern, I decided to use 4x4s, which are the cheapest anyway, but in a running bond rather than stacked pattern. After bringing home samples of the big-box cheapies, I decided to "splurge" (20 cents more per tile, I think, it was about $2.35 per sf after sales and discounts)) on Lowes next-step-up American Olean Ice White, which has a slight rippled surface that catches the light and adds a layer of interest that the flat, cheaper Gloss White doesn't have.

For the floor, we used American Olean 12 x 18 Pietra Bianco, a limestone-look ceramic tile that I'm surprisingly happy with :) Underneath the tile is radiant-heat cable, so the floor is wonderfully cozy and warm.

Floor grout is Latapoxy epoxy.
Wall/shower grout is Tec Accucolor XT, a super-modified grout that supposed to be a lot more stain-resistant (PITA to work with, though!)

Hardware:
DD wanted girly, vintage-looking stuff, a big departure from DH and my modern aesthetic. We narrowed down the style range, then I started watching eBay for deals. We scored about $750 worth of valves and faucets and stuff for about $275.
Vanity faucet: Moen Monticello
Shower faucet valve, trim, tub spout: Moen Monticello with Thermostatic valve
Shower head: Grohe Relexa Ultra on slide bar (LOVE!)
(after working with a bunch of faucets recently, I can say that the Moen monticello stuff is pretty cruddy compared to the Grohe RElexa, Kohler Purist, and HansGrohe stuff I've used recently.)
Towel bars and tissue holder are Ginger Hotelier.
Curved shower rod is the Crescent Rod. I tried some expandable ones they had locally, but this one (ordered on line for the same price) is SO much sturdier and nicer-looking. It also makes the shower space much larger.

Toilet:
Toto Carolina that we got at a yard sale for $150 including the Washlet seat (which we removed). We were driving down the street and DD -who professes to HATE anything renovation-related- said, "Hey, look, Mom... isn;t that one of those skirted toilets you like?" SCORE.

Tub:
American Standard Princeton ~$300 at Lowes. yeah, we chipped it right away by dropping a tool on it while installing the faucets; luckily there's a repair kit that actually does a pretty amazing job :) We used the American Standard "Deep Soak" drain, which adds a couple inches water depth for baths. I wanted DD to use her OWN bathtub rather than my new one in the master bath :)

Vanity:
an old dresser. We bought it on Craigslist for $40, and DH reworked the drawers to fit the plumbing. He also added modern drawer slides so that they work easily. We bought fabulous vintage glass knobs on eBay (if you're looking for vintage knobs, check out this seller: billybobbosen.)

I painted it BM Dove Wing.
We totally went over budget on the vanity top. I'd intended to bet a remnant of granite... but of course couldn't find one DD and I liked. Then we found this little slab of Vermont White quartzite in the "exotics" bone pile at a local yard. It was over budget but we loved it. Then, of course, we decided that rather than a plain square front, it had to be cut to fit the curvy front of the dresser... which added about $100. So the vanity top was our biggest expense at $480.

Medicine cabinet:
A salvaged cabinet we got at the local Habitat for Humanity REStore about 2 years ago. We framed it into the wall (where the old door used to be), painted it, and I tiled the little shelf area with my calacatta mosaic accent tiles and marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot.

Lighting:
Pottery Barn wall fixture from eBay
Ikea ceiling fixture (like $8 each and rated for bathrooms!)
Fan/showerlight combo is a recessed, can-style fixture by Broan/NuTone. It's AWESOME. Quiet, unobtrusive.

That's all I can think of right now. I think once we have the natural wood shelves up over the toilet, with DD's shell collection and a plant on them, it will give a little but of softness/naturalness which the room needs. It's a little TOO "elegant" right now :)

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 08:24 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 08:25 pm

RE: Pocket door for bathroom? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: edselpdx on 08.27.2010 at 12:58 pm in Remodeling Forum

We have a pocket door to our only bathroom for space reasons as well, and have no issues with privacy or it seeming strange. I do recommend the better Johnson hardware for the slider mechanism, and have had no problems with Big Orange hardware for the actual latch/lock mechanisms. The 2 Johnson pocket doors we have have never had any sliding issues nor have they ever come off the tracks. I love the pocket door in a tight space.

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clipped on: 09.22.2013 at 08:16 pm    last updated on: 09.22.2013 at 08:16 pm

Z-Brick help for a backsplash please!

posted by: megsy on 06.08.2009 at 01:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi, everyone. Lurker to this forum but first time poster.

We are looking at z-brick for our backsplash in the kitchen. We really like the product and its ease of installation. We will be sealing it so it's easy to clean.

My problem is that I really like the way it looks in a blog that I found linked here. (http://www.kitchenbitchin.com/uploaded_images/IMG_5763-722970.JPG) The blog that featured StoveGirl's kitchen mentions that she used "Mesa Beige" (http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/2006/12/stovegirls-kitchen.html) , though I haven't been able to confirm that on StoveGirl's personal blog.

And z-brick's website's photo of Mesa Beige (http://www.z-brick.com/page2.html) is really dark so I'm worried that it won't look like Stove Girl's in real life just in case that's not the pattern she used, kwim?

I've looked locally and no one carries the Mesa Beige so I'd have to order it online.

Any insight you might have would be awesome.

Thanks in advance!

Megan

P.S. We have a pretty decent remodeling job going on in our kitchen and I'm planning to post before and after pics once the job is finished.

Here is a link that might be useful: Z-Brick Products

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 10:03 pm

Easy to sew valance directions

posted by: my3dogs on 07.17.2008 at 08:01 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Hi everyone!

Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it.

This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness.

I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width.

Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side.

Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up!

Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you.

Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam.

You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching.

I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out.

Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN!

Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there.

Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side.

Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape.

Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front.

Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side.
Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using.

You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets!

If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.)

Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one.

Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties.

Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!)

Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching.

Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this.

Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done!

Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance.

Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length.

Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want.

You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower...

This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them!

Here is a link that might be useful: several shown here - all the same instructions

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 12:45 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 12:45 pm

Corner Cabinet Space Calculations and Analysis

posted by: davidahn on 02.20.2013 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is an attempt at putting some numbers to the age-old question: what do I do with this darned corner?!? I have answered this question for myself, but thought my analysis might be helpful to others pondering this same question.

Methodology:
- Tried to standardize on a 24D x 48W blind cabinet
- Lazy susan & corner drawers required 36 x 36 corner cabinet
Total usable space is calculated based on the interior space of the drawer/pullout
Usable space given is PER TIER and calculated based on the footprint of the box
Multiply usable space by number of tiers/drawers for total storage area
Drawers and pullouts are 22” deep minus 5/8” drawer front/back
Drawer widths are box width minus 3/4” box sides, 1/2” drawer slide clearances, and 5/8” drawer sides
- Your cabinet builder’s specs may vary slightly from my numbers

Corner Cabinet Studies

Shelves & Non Corner Drawers
Plain shelves (not shown) maximize space use (88% of footprint due to plywood box sides and back) but minimize accessibility. The gold standard is drawers (see 'Non Corner'), balancing space utilization and accessibility (only 73% of footprint due to hardware and clearances), but obviously, two drawer stacks are NOT an option for a corner. Space efficiency should be compared to the drawer 'gold standard' rather than plain shelves which are a terrible idea for any deep cabinet, especially corner cabinets!

Corner Drawer
The corner drawer solution (53% of footprint, 73% of non-corner drawers) does have LARGE dead dead space in both corners, and awkward angles all over the drawers. The pluses are: you can store a lot of stuff by having 4 drawers (2728 sq in), and you can have access to ALL of your stuff. 4 corner drawers offer 81% of two 24W drawer stacks, but takes up 12.5% more floor space.

Super Susan
The super susan (60% of footprint, 82% of non-corner drawers). It’s impractical to do more than 2 tiers, and it lacks a certain sex appeal, and stuff can fall off and get lost in the dead space areas. There’s a maximized version of the Super Susan called the Korner King, which looks like it stores a LOT of crap, but it looks like a Frankenstein’s cabinet, an esthetic purist’s nightmare. For those not offended by its looks, functionally it has a lot of broken up pieces of storage of which only about 10-40% of your stuff is accessible at a time.

Custom Corner
My 'custom corner' (narrow pullout, wide side slide), my choice, has the same usable space as drawers per tier (73% of footprint), but a lot less accessibility due to the limitations the corner imposes. I chose it because while we have lots of storage space, I still wasn’t ready to seal off the corner. The large sideways slideout is perfect for items like our 60 and 100 qt pots that wouldn’t fit in drawers anyway (we occasionally cook for LARGE groups). The main pullout would have 3 tiers for more often-accessed items, for a total of 1494 sq in (514 s.i. x 1 full height slideout for big pots, 327 s.i. x 3 for front pullout), a decent amount of storage including a very large, full height side-slide. 2 L + 3 S tiers would give 2009 s.i.

Dead Corner
The simplest corner solution, the 'dead corner,' only gives 29% of the footprint in storage, or 40% of the storage of 48' of non-corner drawers. But if you use a 4-drawer stack, you get a lot of functional storage - 1348 sq in, though no room for tall/large items.

Magic Corner
Hafele’s Magic Corner offers that WOW factor when you see it gleaming and gliding in and out with soft-close. But it’s only 536 s.i. per tier (49% of footprint, 67% of non-corner drawers), 1072 total s.i. It could store more, but it’s designed to fit in more applications (21D cabinets, narrower cabinets), and therefore has a lot of dead space.

Thoughts
- Unlike straight base cabinets where there’s clear consensus that drawers are best, corners are ALL about limitations and compromise (and debate, with everyone having their own favorite corner solution that fits their needs)
- Drawers offer the greatest accessibility, and by using 3 or 4 drawers, you quickly make up for less space efficiency over 2-tier solutions. For example, even though the dead corner only offers 29% of the footprint of storage per tier, multiply that by 4 drawers = 1348 sq in, more than the Magic Corner’s 1072 s.i. and almost as much as the Super Susan’s 1550 s.i. with 144 s.i. smaller footprint. Despite the large dead spaces, the Corner Drawer offers a LOT of potential storage, up to 2728 s.i. with 4 drawers, though losing large item capability.
As impressive as the 'Magic Corner' solutions are to demo (I too “ooooh”ed at first), they are extremely costly (about $900 and up after hardware and baskets) and optimized to fit in shallower cabinets so have more dead space than other solutions.
My custom corner maximizes total use of the footprint area and also maximizes large and bulky item storage with relatively limited access to the inside corner area, while minimizing cost.
- As with marriage, there is no perfect match, only great or poor fits for your needs. If you’re unhappy with your corner solution, either ignore the limitations or find a better solution. Just don’t expect perfection!

Here is a link that might be useful: Korner King - not for me, might be right for you?

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 12:25 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 12:25 pm

LED recessed cans guide for kitchen ...

posted by: davidtay on 01.30.2012 at 01:27 am in Lighting Forum

A collection of tips/ answers
Since kitchens have higher lighting requirements, I like to use 35 lumen per sq ft as a rule to compute the number of lights. If there are additional sources of light that will be used, the output (lumens not watts) from those sources can be deducted from the total.

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 12:22 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 12:22 pm

'Instant beds'

posted by: donn_ on 03.28.2006 at 07:01 pm in Winter Sowing Forum

Need quick bedspace for your new babies? Here's a surefire way to build them quickly, using nothing but lawn and cardboard.

Groundlevel beds: Cut the lawn/sod about 6-8" deep, in sections you can handle easily. In the space you dug the sod from, lay out sheets of cardboard. Soak the cardboard. Flip the sod chunks upside down, so the grass side is on the cardboard. You now have a new bed, which can be planted into immediately, with a little compost added to the back fill.

Elevated beds: Find a part of the yard that could use a new woodchip path (alongside a bed is a good spot, because it doesn't have to be mowed or edged, because there won't be any grass to grow into your bed). Dig out the same sod chunks outlined above. Lay out the cardboard where you want the new bed, and soak it down. Flip the sod chunks same as above. It's ready to plant. Put down some landscape fabric where you dug out the sod, and cover it with 6-8" of woodchips. You now have a weedfree path that will make compost at it's bottom, which you can harvest every year. Just rake back the top, shovel the bottom into adjacent beds, rake the top back into the bottom, and put a new layer on top.

The primary benefits of instant beds are that you don't need layers of greens and browns like with lasagna beds, and they don't shrink down like lasagna beds.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 12:21 pm

Finished Finished! Rancher Remodel, dark to light! (tons pix)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 06.28.2010 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are done, we are moved in.....after 17mos living with my mom and enduring living out of cardboard boxes! Love love love my new kitchen!! Thank you to all of you who deeply inspired me (redroze,elizpiz,rm,theanimala,segbrown,many many more!), and I hope you don't mind that there's a piece of each of your kitchens that I copied because I admired it so much. I learned so much by lurking, reading everything then finally posting.

THINGS WE LOVE:
--Our cabinets were so reasonable and they work beautifully. We LOVE Precision Cabinets! Their install was immaculate and perfect. When we had a glitch with the warming drawer, they fixed it perfectly! While I couldn't afford every "bell & whistle" inside the cabinets, I love them.
--White Princess honed. It's gorgeous and I no longer have the OCD urge to constantly wipe my counters (our old granite was polished). I also love my backsplash done in the same material--I am attracted to visual simplicity so couldn't pick a tile :)
--Cheap dishwasher. Paid $500 and we love it.
--Deep cheap sinks. Our main Ebay sink is awesome($500)! Love the 10" big single bowl. The island sink was cheap too, and is the perfect size, $150.
--White everywhere and one big room. Not for everyone, but my DH and I love the big open light-filled room. Far cry from the dark rancher that it was. We tore down two walls and raised the ceiling.
--The soapstone buffet. It was a remnant piece and I love that it doesn't match the rest of the kitchen. Sets it apart and boy does the texture feel nice!
--The papertowel niche. Not important, but I like that the towels are off my counter and totally accessible.
--The two hidden cabinets in the island near the stools. All my Xmas dishes, Thanksgiving platters and everything fit in here!

THINGS WE WOULDN'T DO AGAIN:
--The Vent Hood: Modernaire was a NIGHTMARE to deal with here in the NorCal area. You have to go through a distributor who will upcharge you $2,000 to order a hood. Modernaire won't sell directly to anyone who is in the area of one of their distributors. The rep here was a complete idiot, ripped me off and in the end didn't deliver what I had ordered. I had to then hire someone else to fix the goofs. Not worth it!

--Order our range through AJ Madison. Total pain to get this stove delivered. The rest of our appliances came without a hitch but the delivery of the range was a disaster. They refused to deliver it until we had a concrete pathway, but our city had some issues with solid pathways and the runoff, etc. Had 4 delivery dates and they turned around each time and refused to bring it in the house. In the end I would have purchased this through our local store (there was no discount on this by buying on internet, unlike the other appliances).

THINGS WE STILL NEED TO DO:
--Help me pick kitchen table chairs! Those pictured are folding chairs for holidays. Our old ones were falling apart, so we ditched them in the move. What should I put there?
--Shades ordered and we are waiting for them to come and be hung.
--The stools (CB2 Vapor) are too tall and we need to have the legs cut down. They only come in 30" or 24" and one is too tall and the other is too short. Sigh.

THE DETAILS:
Cabinetry�Precision Cabinets, Brentwood, CA; painted in stock color which matches Simply White
Walls�BM Simply White
Kitchen Counters�White Princess granite, from DaVinci Marble & Stone in San Carlos, CA, with 2.25" mitred square edge
Buffet Counter�Brazilian Black soapstone from Texeira, SF, with no edge finish
Door and Drawer Pulls�Top Knobs, Square Pulls, Polished Chrome; ordered off the internet
Main Sink�Ebay purchase 36" SS Farmhouse w/apron front , single bowl, flushmount
Island Sink�Dawn 19X17 single bowl, undermount
Main Faucet�Blanco Meridien Semi-Professional in Brushed
Island Faucet�Santec Penza pull out in Brushed
Refrigerator�Electrolux WaveTouch; ordered off Homeeverything.com
Dishwasher�Whirlpool Gold Quiet Partner III; ordered from AJ Madison
Microwave Drawer�Sharp 24"; ordered from AJ Madison
Range�Viking Range w/6 burners and griddle; ordered from AJ Madison
Hood� Modernaire custom hood
Trash Compactor�GE Profile in SS; ordered from AJ Madison
Warming Drawer�Kitchenaid Architect Series II; ordered off Homeeverything.com; panel from cabinet co.
Backsplash�White Princess granite
Windows�Semco
Flooring-DuChateau pre-engineered floors in Lugano
Big Slider Door�Custom made 10� bypass doors by McFarland Doors, w/custom screen
Island Pendants�Hudson Valley Pelham 13" ordered from Butler Lighting
Breakfast Table Pendant�Round 26" linen chandelier by Restoration Hardware
Buffet Sconces�Boston Library Sconces by CircaLighting.com

Before:
Before Remodel
Family room:Before Remodel
Before Remodel

After:
House
Photobucket
House
House
House
House
House
House
House
House
House
House
House

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 12:16 pm

painting honey oak cabinets

posted by: ljdiep0807 on 08.23.2013 at 04:35 pm in Remodeling Forum

Hi,

I am hoping to paint my honey oak kitchen cabinets, ideally using a very low or 0 VOC paint. Does anyone have experience using Mythic or Yolo Colorhouse for kitchen cabinets? They are both latex paints (100% acrylic), so I'm not sure how they will hold up. I'd GREATLY appreciate any suggestions or insights before tackling this job.

Thanks!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.19.2013 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 09.19.2013 at 11:53 am

RE: What one smallish rabbit can do in a couple days. (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: trudy on 07.18.2013 at 08:25 am in Hosta Forum

Sorry about all your rabbit damage leafwatcher. Have you tried Milorganite to deter the rabbits?

Lowes or Menards carrys it and its around $12 a bag, which goes a long ways. Dont have to use much, just sprinkle around the plants. Rabbits hate the smell and so do deer. It's part of our program to deter both, along with Liquid Fence. We alternate both.

Our grass is starting to go dormant but not the clover which is now blooming. Every night we see rabbits in the clover. If the rabbits would just eat the clover we would all get along. Just dont eat my hosta scapes........!

Store the Milorganite in a bucket with a lid as the smell is not pleasant! Buy a 5 gallon bucket with a lid at the same time when purchasing Milorganite if you dont have one, as trust me you will need it!

NOTES:

Deer and rabbit deterrant!
clipped on: 07.18.2013 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 07.18.2013 at 08:52 am

RE: A note of caution for anyone repainting their cabinets (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: david123 on 10.31.2008 at 08:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Well, I am using a different paint (a waterborne paint)- is yours oil based? I know there are other ones other than SW pro classic out there, just not sure of the brands. Mine is a self-leveling one, so what I use is either foam rollers or 4 1/2" Wooster Pro Doo Z (got that advice on the paint forum) and follow up with one back brushing with a Corona excalibur (it's a Chinex brush, made specifically for waterborne paints). But, the trick is to not over work the paint- going over it once with the brush is enough. It starts setting quickly and if you to back over it you will get icky glops that you really have to sand out hard.

I am using a satin finish as well- I think it hides tiny brush marks and tiny drips better than a semi-gloss. I found that just rolling the paint left little stipple marks, even with this self-leveling paint.

If yours is an oil based paint, I really have no clue what to do to eliminate brush marks. I chose the pro classic based on recommendations on the paint forum, from my paint dealer, and from my hated of mineral spirits and oil based products, the smell gives me a headache so I have to minimize it's use. Plus I have kids and cats that always seem to help out when I turn my back, so soap and water wash up is important.....

Good luck, and try posting your question on the paint forum, you will get some good advice there (sometimes conflicting, but at least more ideas to try or think about)

NOTES:

Painting cabinets tips
clipped on: 07.16.2013 at 08:14 pm    last updated on: 07.16.2013 at 08:14 pm

What's the trick with putting up straight welded wire fence?

posted by: keepitlow on 04.25.2009 at 08:23 pm in Farm Life Forum

I mount my fence on T posts and it is wavy as hell. I just unroll it and try to stretch it and mount it to the posts.

NOTES:

T post tips
clipped on: 07.09.2013 at 12:08 pm    last updated on: 07.09.2013 at 12:08 pm

RE: Using FPE on kitchen cabinets-Does it require a professional (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: faron79 on 01.01.2010 at 03:44 pm in Paint Forum

This may sound weird...?!?!?

The idea behind the "kiddie-pools" is a technique to keep dust down when doing fine finish-painting!
* I learned of it when visiting with the FPE people, and watching their info-DVD.
* When doing "critical-appearance" projects, use a couple kiddie-pools with 1" of water placed in your workroom.
* The day b4 priming/painting, turn on the fan. This circulates the air in the room. The airborne dust eventually "preciptates out" onto the water surface. Surface-area is important...NOT water DEPTH!
* Cover incoming vents with filter-cloth, sprayed with Filter-charger.
* A spare bedroom works great for doing the Cab-doors. Vacuum/Sweep/Cover flooring. Change furnace filter. Then let the air-cleaning begin!
* Use a top-end brush, such as a Good Corona, Purdy, or Wooster.
* DON'T use Floetrol. Kinda old-school, and CAN affect color in lights/whites. Choose XIM's Latex X-tender if needed...but it's usually not.
* One of the keys is using Looooonnng smooth strokes. Don't use "feather-dusting"-type strokes when applying paint.
* The Face-frames don't need such precision since they're locked in place! Use the same careful "long-strokes" however.
* Don't overwork the paint...if you're brushing more than 6 times thru the same area, it's too much.
* Choose how smooth you want your door-surface. You can use FPE's Grain-filling Putty/primer, but this involves more sanding prep. Results would be spectacular though!!

Faron

NOTES:

Painting kitchen cabs tips
clipped on: 06.25.2013 at 12:07 am    last updated on: 06.25.2013 at 12:08 am

RE: Anyone else looking for crisp sheets? Part 2 (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: annie1971 on 06.02.2013 at 12:16 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Re pricing: I would bet you can purchase a single flat queen sheet and a king fitted sheet and save a little money. Most queen flat sheets cover adequately on a king bed and it sounds like the TL sheets are even more generous. Also, for those that sew, I always buy an extra flat sheet (twin if I can find it) and make my own extra pillow cases. I can get at least 4, sometimes 5 standard pillow cases out of a twin sheet. If I buy TL sheets, I'll purchase an extra queen and see how I can get king and standard pillow cases out of it.
I'll bet there's more coupons for June somewhere.

NOTES:

Crisp sheet sources!
clipped on: 06.22.2013 at 11:09 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2013 at 11:09 pm

Frosted glass window film?

posted by: chays on 03.03.2012 at 09:46 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

X-post w/ Bathrooms:

We are 80% done with the remodel in our master bath. We have a large picture window over the tub and we put a small window in the potty room.
Do any of you have experience with the frosted glass window films?

Our bathroom is very "exposed" to the whole neighborhood and we had an opaque cell shade there pre-remodel. Now, I am thinking that I would rather "frost" the glass so that the light can still come in, but no one will see me running around naked in the bathroom!

The window has mullions between the panes of glass, so applying should be easy. I am also considering only "frosting" 3/4 of the window height and stopping at the top section leaving it clear for direct sunlight. Would that look dumb? I would give the potty window the same treatment.

Thanks!!

NOTES:

Read responses!
clipped on: 06.22.2013 at 10:51 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2013 at 10:51 pm

Painting kitchen cabinets ... Is it a nightmarish job?

posted by: SunnyCottage on 03.27.2013 at 11:43 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I've been thinking for quite some time that my kitchen cabinets could do with a new paint job. They are original to the house (1940) and are currently painted kind of a barn red color which has chipped in places and is looking pretty shabby. I've tried to color-match the paint for touching up areas, but have not been successful in getting just the right shade. There is also a lot of trim work that extends into the adjoining breakfast area painted in this color. My flooring is Saltillo tile, and the red against the terra cotta of the floor has always seemed a bit jarring to me. I'm thinking of fresh, creamy white for my cabinets and trim, but I'd have to DIY and while I have painted walls (numerous times), I don't have much experience with cabinets and trim. The mere thought of embarking on such a project leaves me with cold feet, BUT I do think that repainting would be an improvement. The current paint, particularly on the trim, has a smooth, satin-almost-gloss look that I fear would be hard to duplicate.

I don't really mind the red trim in the breakfast area ...

And I don't really mind it here either:

But I really dislike these red cabinets in the kitchen. Hard to tell from this limited view, but they really seem to clash with the floor tiles here! Please share your thoughts on whether venturing forth with this project would be a potential nightmare.

NOTES:

Read responses!
clipped on: 06.22.2013 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2013 at 10:34 pm

RE: Window Well Cover (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ron6519 on 04.30.2007 at 08:44 am in Basements Forum

If there's a heavy rain, the water will hit the ground. The window well has no bottom. Generally they are just a semi circle of metal resting against the house. They are not sealed in any way and water will get into the well around the sides. With enough rain it could fill up from the bottom, whether you have a cover on or not. The only way a window well cover might protect is if the gutters over the well overflow, directly into the well.
To eliminate the water potential in a window well there should have been a drain system installed linking all the wells together and having them empty into a dry well. On the rare occasion water inundates the area, it empties into the drain, not into the window.
If you don't have a drain system, dig out the wells to a depth of 12" below the window ledge. Or take a post hole digger and dig down as deep as you can(about 36" in most cases) and drop in a 4" PVC pipe with a srainer cover to keep debris out. Keep the top of the pipe below the window ledge.
Ron

NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 12:29 am    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 12:29 am

Need suggestions for fixing, cleaning & water-proofing basement

posted by: mystiky on 05.25.2013 at 12:33 pm in Basements Forum

We live in a 1930's all-brick house, and the time has finally come for us to do our basement, which has been already demo'ed. We live about 3/4 of a mile from the water, and we are about 70 feet above sea level. Thankfully, the basement has no leaks through any of it's walls or the floor

We need to fix a few tiny cracks (holes), scrape off the old paint/junk from the walls (blocks), have them waterproofed from any extra humidity / moisture and then painted. We will be using metal studs in the construction with green sheetrock everywhere (except ceiling), however there will be two machine-room closets (one for boiler / heater, and the other for electrical / gas meters) that will have the walls non-covered for access.

Can anyone suggest what water-proofing, crack sealent and paint to use so that it lasts well and the walls don't start peeling in a couple of years?

Also, any other suggestions are much appreciated.

NOTES:

See responses!
clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 12:24 am    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 12:25 am

RE: Need suggestions for fixing, cleaning & water-proofing baseme (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: worthy on 05.25.2013 at 08:28 pm in Basements Forum

All you need to know on renovating your basement is at Building Science.Com.

Save your money on the miracle waterproofing paints.

The greenboard isn't much of an improvement on standard drywall. If you're really concerned, you can use Dens Plus or equivalent.

Instead, concentrate on keeping water far away from the exterior of your basement with functioning eavestrough, downspouts that take the water far away and proper grading. Use a moisture tolerant insulation--extruded or expanded polystyrene--in the thickness appropriate for your climate zone. (Not the same as the garden zone!)

Run a properly-sized dehumidifier to keep relative humidity under 50 per cent.

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clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 12:20 am    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 12:20 am

RE: Basement Carpet & Pad (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: worthy on 04.23.2013 at 07:47 am in Basements Forum

"I can't find a single person that has had issues with this setup unless a flood or leak becomes a problem to which them the carpet/pad would need to be pulled up because the pad couldn't dry itself. "

Except Dr. Lstiburek and me, I guess. (As opposed to the guys who promote and sell carpets.)

If you're not providing a way to allow rising moisture to escape other than through the carpet, you've got a potential mould growth problem. Synthetic carpets allow drying to the interior, as the carpet expert cited notes. However, it is the underpad that is the problem: the only ones I know of are either impervious rubber or moisture absorbent foam. That's why I avoid both.

However, as I confessed before, as a builder I have used even padded carpets in basements for a few years without problems. They're standard in luxury spec homes in my area. But after a few years in a non-dehumidified basement, the distinctive musty smell of mould is pervasive. I was literally in hundreds of homes with basement carpeting when I was real estate broker for 17 years and all I can conclude is that homeowners grow so used to the odour they don't notice it anymore. (I'm just as guilty! I once moved a couch from my cottage to my home. Once it was home, I couldn't believe I hadn't noticed the stench before.)

The surest way to avoid mould growth under the carpet is to forget the padding. Delta FL topped by plywood would allow you to use padding and cut headroom by about an inch.

And always dehumidify!

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clipped on: 06.15.2013 at 12:02 am    last updated on: 06.15.2013 at 12:02 am

RE: Window well filling with water (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pkovo on 06.10.2013 at 05:58 pm in Basements Forum

+1 on Worthy's reply. You probably have/had clay drain tiles, and they are sure to be shot by now. And draining to daylight would be best if your property allows.

Your well is not highh enough, and wood is not the best at keeping water at bay.

If you cannot drain to daylight, I would do the following:

Remove that wooden well, and dig the well out at least a couple feet below the bottom of the window. Pickup a deeper plastic or metal well at a box store, and install the new well so the lip is quite a bit higher than this one....high enough so you can bring in additional fill dirt, and get a decent pitch away from the house. Use fill dirt, ideally with some clay in it, not topsoil. the idea is you want the water to run away from your foundation, not soak in. At least get a good pitch for several feet away from the foundation.

Then fill the deeper well you dug with small size drainage stone or pea gravel, and put a lid on it for good measure 9premade, or cut from plexiglass or lexan.

Water shouldn't get into the well with the lid, and when it runs off, your new positive grading should divert it away from the foundation. If water does happen to get into the well, it will drain into the gravel so that unless you get some kind of record rainfall, it won't pool up deep enough to get up to the bottom of the window.

Try to make sure the grading around your entire foundation has a positive pitch away from the house...at least as much as you can. Run drainage pipe to get the gutter water away from the house as well.

By the way, what piping does the cleanout in the picture go to?

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clipped on: 06.14.2013 at 11:36 pm    last updated on: 06.14.2013 at 11:39 pm

RE: Pocket Doors - Existing Bath and Bypass Pocket Doors (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: brickeyee on 03.06.2013 at 02:25 pm in Remodeling Forum

I have pocket doors into existing walls by only removing the finished wall on one side.

It helps a LOT if it is NOT weight bearing wall.

I typically use 2x6s on the flat as studs on each side (sometimes milled down to 1.25 in thick) and then steal a little floor space on the removed wall side forthe3adidtinal wall thickness.

You can just fit a 4x4 1.25 inch deep electric box with a plaster ring into either wall (watch out for screws on the back of the box).

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 01:30 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 01:30 pm

RE: Pocket door for bathroom? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: salmon_slayer on 08.28.2010 at 10:06 pm in Remodeling Forum

I have them and they work fantastic WITH good hardware

I would encourage you to look strongly at the better Grant hardware and a solid core door

Here is a link that might be useful: Grant Hdwre

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 12:23 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 12:23 pm

RE: Pocket door for bathroom? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: staceyneil on 08.25.2010 at 05:58 pm in Remodeling Forum

Thanks for your input. That's one of the things I have read people say.... but I'm looking for opinions based on personal experience. Why do you say that?

...I've also read posts from people who say their pocket doors on their bathrooms are wonderful... so am trying to dig a little deeper. I'll bet PART of it has to do with the quality of the doors. I'm not talking about the cheapo kind from Home Depot that jumps off the single track; I am talking about a higher quality door/hardware set from Johnson.

A pocket door would make the usable space in this tight bathroom a lot bigger. However- if it really makes it a PITA to use, that's not a worthwhile trade-off.

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 12:22 pm

RE: Pocket door for bathroom? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: brickeyee on 08.25.2010 at 07:49 pm in Remodeling Forum

"Pocket doors are for "normally open" doors not doors that get opened and closed on a regular basis."

If you use decent hardware they can be used for bathrooms and other frequently used doors.

Do not use anything less than John sin Hardware 111PD level parts.

The biggest problem with the Johnson hardware are the door guides.

They scratch the face of the door.
Cut a 3/32 groove in the bottom of the door (stopped at the show edge) and use a piece of aluminum angle in the bottom of the pocket to guide the door and prevent swaying.

There are decent privacy lock available for pocket doors.

Try Van Dyke's Restorers (I make my latches in my machine shop).

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clipped on: 05.22.2013 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2013 at 12:21 pm