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RE: Opinions on Hansgrohe large shower heads? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: txjoyce on 04.10.2013 at 11:36 am in Bathrooms Forum

Can't help with the showerhead question, but you might want to check out for prices. We bought all our Hansgrohe bathroom fixtures there - pricing was the best I could find online, good return policy (didn't need it), and service was great.


clipped on: 03.14.2014 at 08:05 pm    last updated on: 03.14.2014 at 08:05 pm

RE: Grohe or hansgrohe, which is better? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: Geoffrey_B on 03.20.2013 at 02:16 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The iBox is the 'rough in', inside the wall. It is a base (foundation) to connect the water pipes (inlet) and the shower/tub (outlet). You will need this.

You will also have to buy a brass valve (mounted inside the iBox) that controls the temperature and volume (and perhaps a diverter).

Then, when the tile is installed, what ever trim you have picked out, is installed over the iBox.

A 1/2" pipe should be plenty for a normal shower.

Once you start paying $300 - $400 or more for a faucet they all should be good.


clipped on: 03.05.2014 at 04:15 pm    last updated on: 03.05.2014 at 04:15 pm

hand showers on slide bars

posted by: kerfuffle6 on 07.10.2012 at 12:13 am in Bathrooms Forum

I would like to install hand showers with slide bars in all the showers in my new house. It is, of course, critical that the shower stay put on the bar and, at the same time, be easy to adjust. I would like the hand showers to have great massage settings, as well as a setting that is good for rinsing shampoo out of long hair. If you have this set-up and are happy with it, please tell me which brand and model you recommend for both the slide bar and the hand shower.


clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 03:20 pm    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 03:21 pm

RE: Slidebar recommendations for handshower? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: kaysd on 11.08.2013 at 12:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We have used the Hansgrohe Raindance head on the 36" Unica wallbar as the only shower head in 3 showers now. (1 used for 8 years, 1 for 2 years and 1 being installed this month.) The 36" of height adjustment is great, but so is the up-down and side-to-side pivot of the head. The water stream can be focused straight down, straight out (great for the lower back with the head moved down the bar), or any angle in between. The head position is easy to adjust, and we have had no problems with sliding.

The "E" style Raindance head is good for transitional or contemporary (maybe traditional) and the "S" is more modern.

The water pressure is great for getting shampoo out of my long hair.

If you already purchased brushed nickel shower controls from Kohler, you would have to make sure the finishes match between the 2 brands, otherwise, go with a Kohler wall bar. We used Hansgrohe for all our shower fixtures, then different brands for the sink faucets to get the styling we wanted.

Here is a link that might be useful: Raindance


clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 01:40 am    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 01:40 am

alternative Waste & Overflow for Duravit Starck bathtub?

posted by: Upstater67 on 12.13.2011 at 01:44 pm in Plumbing Forum

I've done so much helpful research here and on the Bathroom Forum, but right now I feel like I've hit a dead end, so here's my first question.

I have my dream bathtub, the Duravit Starck # 700166, on order. It is the simple 60 x 30 soaker model, no electric bells and whistles.

Duravit offers only one choice for this tub's Waste & Overflow, Duravit's cable driven # 790220. I don't like it for my purposes because (1) I definitely want a model with a strainer-type top to keep hair from going down the drain and (2) I prefer a polished nickel finish (the recommended model comes only in chrome).

One thing that concerns me is that apparently this suggested Waste & Overflow has a flexible neck. I am wondering if that feature is going to be necessary for dealing with the Starck tub, which has a slight angle to the front wall that the overflow is going to be mounted on.

According to its diagrams, the tub is 18 1/8" deep and has a 2" hole for the drain. There is a 9" horizontal reach from the center of the drain hole to the outside of the tub where the vertical pipe would be.

I've called both Duravit and Geberit (the actual manufacturer of the Waste & Overflow) and neither one had a suggestion for an alternate model.

Does anyone here have experience dealing with this tub and finding alternate plumbing for it? Would there at least be a way for me to have a strainer type metal drain closer installed instead of the Duravit plug, if I have to buy the Duravit model? Hair down the drain is a big, big issue in this household. (This is my beautiful new bathroom remodel and I do not want to have to get one of those plastic drain cover items.)

Here is a link to the tub:

And here is a link with a photo of the Waste & Overflow:

Thanks so much for any advice!


clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 12:01 pm    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 12:16 pm

Deepest Soaking tubs, Flanges and Skirts (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ChristaM on 05.16.2013 at 07:46 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I wanted to share information here in case someone else searches for something similar, so here it goes:

First, if you live in the SF Bay Area, go to TUBZ in Fremont. They have tons of tubs and really nice people working there. The prices are good too.

I've been researching the deepest soaking tub for a 66x32 tub size. (For the most part the information is the same for the 60x32 versions.) Many tubs do not list the water depth information, but I found that to be the most important number (that and gallons). I don't understand why some manufacturers don't provide this info.

Below is the water depth for the following models based on my own measuring with a tape (might be off by a fraction):

Maax Pose 14.5"
Maax Rubix 12"

Hydro Systems Sydney 19"
Hydro Systems Lacey 17.5"

Kohler Underscore 1821 18"
Duravit Stark 17"
Vero 6632 C 17.25"

Another issue is that I'm installing the tub into a corner and will be using it as a shower too. So I need a tile flange on 2 sides which is not standard (they all either have 3 sided alcove style or none). There are some nice tubs available that are curved on one corner, but those won't work for my installation because my drain is on the rounded corner side, not the wall corner side.

HOWEVER, I learned it's possible to have a flange custom installed onto the Hydro Systems or Kohler tubs prior to delivery. For me this is the best option. This added on flange is not 100% as waterproof as a factory molded flange, but I'm going to live with the slightly higher risk of leak. It's going in our master bath and we are tidy. I promise to maintain my caulk and grout!

Maax and Hydro Systems are available as alcove tubs with tile flanges and skirts. Hydro Systems can do custom orders (2 flanges/2 skirts).

Maax tubs are a noticeable step down in quality IMHO. They look a little more builder grade/extra shiny and the textured bottoms look like they would be a PITA to keep clean. Maax is less expensive so you get what you pay for in quality I think. The Maax tubs also have feet so they can be installed on top of the floor -- so even though the tubs are 20 and 22 inches high, the bottom of each tub is about 3 inches off the ground, so that takes away from the depth of the tub.


clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 11:51 am

RE: MAAX Rubix Tub (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: vitaminjd on 05.07.2013 at 11:17 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I just placed the order for my 66x32 Rubix tub this morning. It will be at least a couple of months before I'm in the house and able to try it out but after extensive research I think I'll be happy with it. This youtube video helped with my decision:

Also, I spoke with someone at Maax about my concern regarding the smooth bottom and he said that sometimes textured acrylic can actually be more slippery because the "bumps" in the surface will leave pockets of water under your foot and therefore lessen your traction. But in a smooth bottom your foot makes full contact with the surface and creates better grip. I don't know if this is true or not but it sounded good to me and put me somewhat at ease.

I've also realized after reading your comments about the comfort of the steep walls that I never really lay back in my tub. I pretty much always sit up straight with my back away from the backrest. Weird, huh?


clipped on: 03.01.2014 at 01:26 am    last updated on: 03.01.2014 at 01:28 am

Just Finished Bathroom Remodel (Thank You; Third Time's a Charm)

posted by: KevinMP on 04.20.2012 at 09:04 am in Bathrooms Forum

Two months ago, I began planning to remodel the only bathroom (110 square feet) in my house (c. 1826). There was a lot of fear and apprehension, and I often found myself looking for answers on this forum. You don't know how helpful you were, and to the extent I can be helpful to anyone, please let me know.
I'll try to post pictures, but I have no idea how to do it, so we'll see.

But here's what I ended up using:

Floor (9"x18" honed calacatta gold with dove gray TEC grout and Nuheat mat with Solo thermostat)

Vanity (it's made by Silkroad Exclusive and called Tenino on some websites; I got it on eb_ay for $900 delivered, removed the top and sinks, and hardware and replaced them with two Kohler Archer undermount sinks, 2 cm antique brown granite in a leathered finish, and cabinet hardware from Restoration Hardware)

Mirrors (they are from Lowes (I believe from the "Fanella" collection)

Lighting (five 40 W pot lights and 1 sconce (the Nolan single sconce with linen shade from Restoration Hardware)

Tub (Mirabelle Edenton 30"x60" acrylic thermal air bath (only sold at Ferguson, and has huge interior dimensions (bigger than most 34"x66" tubs I tried and cheaper (by half) and bigger inside than the 36"x60" Hydrosystems Lacey I was looking at))

Shower (same honed calacatta gold time and grout on the walls and niche, cheap but well matching 2"x2" square mosaic tiles from Home Depot in Grecian White (I had to pick through many boxes to get ones that matched, but it saved me $250 off of the calacatta gold), two Kohler body sprays (K-8002 (54 nozzles each), two Kohler volume controls (one for the shower head and one for the body sprays), the new Kohler Katalyst shower head, Oatey liner and drain)

Shower door and glass for knee wall (not in yet, but they will be Starphire glass)

Replaced the window with a 34"x53" 400 series casement window by Andersen with snap-in grille)

Jacuzzi Prestige toilet

Fixtures (with matching Kohler valves) (all Kohler Pinstripe Pure (two faucets, tub spout and wall-mount valves, shower head, thermostatic valve trim, volume control trim, and shower door handles)

Paint (all Benjamin Moore Aura Bath and Spa Paint (Matte); walls Mount Saint Anne (1565) and trim and ceiling White Dove (OC-17))






















clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 10:25 pm

RE: How Do I Put Together a Simple Wall Shower System (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mongoct on 02.17.2012 at 01:20 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You'll need more than a minute to digest that thread. Then some Pepto Bismol afterwards. If that thread didn;t push you over the edge, this one certainly will...

Anyhow, going with the Montreux in the "modern" and "easy to clean" look. For that I'll recommend levers over cross-handles. There are a few ways to do this, but here's a basic list. Any links I provide are just generic hits:

With either a shower or a shower and tub spout, you need a valve to set the water temp. Hansgrohe has two valves, the 13gpm Ecostat and the 20gpm Ecomax. You can use either, but the Ecostat 15737181 has more than enough flow-through:

That's just the rough valve. You need a trim set to make it all pretty. Since you wrote "modern" I'll link to the Ecostat Montreux lever kit instead of the cross handled kit, but you can choose any Ecostat trim kit.

You can use the above valve for just the shower head, or for the shower and tub combo.

For the shower head, you want Axor Montreux on the slide bar, it includes a hose:

You need the Axor Montreux handheld:

You need a wall outlet to connect the handheld hose to the plumbing within the wall:

If you go with the tub spout, you'll need that:

All of the parts listed above give you the ability to set the water temp they allow you to get the water out of the walls via the handheld shower or the tub faucet. Now you need a way to control volume and to direct the water from the mixing valve to those outlets.

If you just have the shower and no tub, you'll have the hot and cold water supplies feed into the respective side ports on the Ecostat mixing valve. The outlet of the mixing valve will connect to a volume control. The outlet on the volume control will connect to the handheld wall outlet. For the volume control you need the #13974181 rough valve and the trim kit.

Although I added the tub spout in the parts listed above, if you forget about that, everything else is what you;d need for a "shower only" setup.

To add the tub spout, you can do it in one of two ways. You can simply add another volume valve and volume trim kit, the same one that's listed above to control the shower volume. If you did that, you'd again have the hot and cold supplies feeding the Ecostat temperature control valve. The top outlet port of the control valve would lead to one volume control valve, which would feed the handheld shower. The bottom outlet port on the temp control valve will feed a second volume control valve, which will feed the tub spout.


You can omit the two volume valves and replace them with a single diverter valve. If you did that, the top outlet port on the Ecostat temp valve would feed the Trio Diverter. The outlets on the diverter would then feed the handheld or tub spout.

Use the Trio Diverter valve body...

With the Trio Montreux Trim Kit...

You will only be feeding a handheld or a tub spout, so you can use all 1/2" valves, 1/2" fittings, etc. If I linked to a 3/4" valve that was by error. Again, the websites I linked to were happenstance.

Again, there are a few ways to skin this cat. The above is just one way using a thermostatic valve and staying within the Hansgrohe Axor Montreux family..

That's it for now.


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 08:26 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 08:26 pm

RE: Shower/tub fixtures (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: enduring on 12.05.2013 at 06:14 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here is one thread that is from a couple of years ago, but Mongoct has some great information for showers.

I have linked a large thread below, and here are some more threads:

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ/Answers Bathroom Plumbing...


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 08:23 pm    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 08:23 pm

RE: 60 Inch tub with LOTS of legroom (Follow-Up #39)

posted by: KevinMP on 08.28.2013 at 01:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It's part of the mold, not a separate, baked-on application. The Archer is like sandpaper glued on, which is the stuff commonly used in cast iron tubs that turns yellowish/brown in showers, etc. It also feels weird to sit on. The Edenton is all acrylic and isn't textured in a raised pattern, it's pressed into the bottom. My tub drains fine. Some people have complained on here about the drainage and blamed it on the mold at the factory and there has been a response (if it's true) that the factory has fixed the issue with the mold, but I think it's also an installation issue. The tub has to be set correctly and in a proper substrate. As I mentioned, I've had no problems. If you look I believe there's also a video link I posted to my air bath with the tub partially filled. That may provide you with additional information. I don't know anything about the Maax, but I recall most of the other options I considered (other than the final ones I narrowed down to) having unattractive shapes or skirts or being too shallow for what I wanted.

If you look closely at the picture above, you can see the dimpled texture. I'll try to take a closer-up picture later today.

This post was edited by KevinMP on Wed, Aug 28, 13 at 13:28


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 01:32 am    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 01:32 am

RE: Help finding 60' alcove tub with long/wide basin!! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: JulieAP on 07.29.2011 at 01:32 am in Bathrooms Forum

You cant change the apron of the bancroft.

At my plumbing store (Pacific Sales in CA) they had the Hydro Systems Sydney tub for $800 with the drain included, apron, and tile flange. This is lower price than full retail. it is a very straight and clean looking tub. It looks identical to the Lacey with apron that some have on this site, but less expensive. it is a deep soaker... I think water is 17 high, basin 41x20 at bottom. they make a 30 and a 32 wide version. the measurements I mentioned above were for the standard 60x32 alcove tub.

it is supposedly very good quality. I don't know if you can try to get that one- it looks modern and is within your budget. hope that helps rachel!


clipped on: 02.28.2014 at 01:07 am    last updated on: 02.28.2014 at 01:07 am

RE: Recommend a hand held multi spray shower head (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sas95 on 06.20.2013 at 05:18 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We have a Grohe Relexa. It's very good.


clipped on: 02.21.2014 at 12:42 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2014 at 12:42 pm

RE: Help finding 60' alcove tub with long/wide basin!! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: qt314b on 07.27.2011 at 10:35 am in Bathrooms Forum

I have also been looking for the deepest / longest alcove tub without all the frills and for a relatively low price what I have so far turned up

American Standard Evolution
60x32x19 with an interior of at the
bottom 41.5x22.5 and at the
top 52 x26,
16" deep to overflow
74 gal

Kohler Archer
60x32x21 (I think) with an interior of at the
bottom 45x19 and at the
top 52 x25,
15" deep to overflow
58 gal

American Standard Studio 2945
60x32x22 (I think) with an interior of at the
bottom 40.5x20 and at the
top I forgot to ask when I called
15.5" deep to overflow
54 gal

Kohler Underscore drop in or undermount
60x32x21 with an interior of at the
bottom 42x23.5 and at the
top 55x27
17.5" deep to overflow
81 gal

I have yet to make my final decision and the underscore fits my needs in all ways other than it is only available as a drop in so most likely I will go with one of the other 3.

The bancroft has great measurements but I don't love the wave in the front.

Good Luck


clipped on: 02.19.2014 at 01:35 pm    last updated on: 02.19.2014 at 01:36 pm

RE: Kohler Bathtub questions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Anna_in_TX on 12.14.2013 at 02:39 am in Bathrooms Forum

Tubs are like furniture or seats in cars - they are very personal to that individual. The best thing to do is to go to the manufacturer's website and look at the specifications to get the interior basin length/width and water depth. Nine inches is considered a child bathing tub. A soaking tub has a depth of 15 or more. You really need to sit in your current tub and take your body measurements and the tub's measurements to get a good feel for what would be best for you. Then look at each individual tub's specifications. Don't forget to pay attention to the angle of the back of the tub and angle of armrests. Arm rests tend to take up the width of the interior.

The interior basin measurements can really vary even though tubs have the same exterior measurements. In 60 x 32 tubs, for example interior dimensions the Kohler Archer is more long and narrow, the Kohler Bancroft is long and wider, the Kohler Devonshire is shorter, Kohler Expanse is wide like an oval, Kohler Mariposa and Hourglass are narrow in the middle, the Mirabelle Edenton and Jacuzzi Cetra are both really wide and very deep, with the Cetra being shorter with a straighter back, etc. If you are a tub person, selecting a tub will take some time.

This is a really good forum to get info, just search it for specific models.

You can always insulate your tub when you install it. And also install a heated floor and towel warmer.

Most deep and shaped tubs are acrylic. Deeper cast iron tubs are going to be more expensive.


clipped on: 02.19.2014 at 01:38 am    last updated on: 02.19.2014 at 01:38 am

RE: Bluestar door trouble (again) (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: monkeyk on 04.16.2010 at 12:12 am in Appliances Forum

OK, looks like I found pictures and a writeup that I did at the time. Sorry if the closeups of my not so clean kitchen offend:

My Bluestar oven door recently froze shut for the second time. Bluestar was great about replacing the door but in the meantime it is incredebly inconvenient to have an oven door that you can't open. Especially if there is something perishable inside!

With the second door replacement, I decided to try and do it myself. The first time, we had a service man do it, and he had to disassemble most of the range to take the oven door off.
The problem is that the instructions say to open the oven door to replace it, but my inability to open the oven door is the reason that it is being replaced. I figured that if I could just get to the hinges, that I could take them apart. Little did I know that I could uncover a secret for temporarily allowing the door to open.

WARNING: I am not a professional (though sometimes I wish I were). Anything that I describe here should not be taken as advice from myself or Bluestar. Speaking of Bluestar, I do not represent them in any way. If you choose to try and do anything that I describe here, you are taking any associated risks upon yourself.

1) The first thing that I did was to examine the door for any additional entry points that might help me get at the hinges. I did find screws at the bottom of the oven door, but I could not get a screwdriver to them because the kickplate blocked the access.

2) The kickplate turned out to have easily accessible screws at the top left and right ends. After removing these, the kickplate is held in place by a couple of inaccessible screws at the bottom left and right. Fortunately, the kickplace is slotted and just resting on these, so I was able to slide the kickplate up and off the screws and then pull it away.

The first thing to notice at this point is that the oven gas manifold is now exposed. I had to be very carful not to touch anything near it, or I could have risked messing up the oven's callibration

3) With the kickplate removed, the screws on the bottom of the oven door are accessible. I removed all of these. There were two on the left, two on the right, and one in the middle

4) After removing the oven door screws, the exterior to the oven door could slide up and off of the oven door interior.

5) With the oven door exterior removed, the oven door hinges are now exposed.

6) I applied lubrication to the hinges and moved the door gently until it could open

7) I reapplied the door exterior

8) reapplied the 5 door screws

9) replaced the kickplate

10) reapplied the 2 kickplate screws

11) And then I had an oven door that could open and close!

Fortunately, my door froze before I put the chicken in to roast. But had I known this would work, I wouldn't have had to roast the chicken on the grill (although that didn't come out too bad anyway)

Here is a link that might be useful: album with photos


clipped on: 02.06.2014 at 03:44 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2014 at 03:44 pm