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RE: help w/ WT please (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: parma42 on 10.25.2009 at 08:38 pm in Home Decorating Forum


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Here's your window, Kitty.

You can buy corner connectors and three rods. They all fit together to form the bay. That's what we did.

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clipped on: 10.26.2009 at 05:21 pm    last updated on: 10.26.2009 at 05:22 pm

My finished kitchen--creamy cabinets, Caesarstone, black walnut..

posted by: jenos on 06.18.2009 at 09:23 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi---even though my kitchen has been finished for a year and a half, I just figured out how to post pictures, so I thought I'd share! I am STILL on this forum daily since I LOVE checking out other people's wonderful ideas. Thank you to everyone here--and on the appliance forum--who helped when I needed it!Photobucket

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Butler's Pantry


Breakfast Nook

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clipped on: 07.29.2009 at 09:31 am    last updated on: 07.29.2009 at 09:31 am

RE: Painting polished brass (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: homemaker on 10.14.2007 at 07:41 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I painted mine and used the Tremclad regular spray paint for metal. I was told that if the screen gets really hot during use, I should use the high heat paint, but mine is warm to the touch only, so I opted for the regular paint.

It has made it through three - four winters very well (we use the fireplace a lot!!), so I guess it's OK.

I bought the Tremclad metal spray primer (gray) and the paint at Home Depot and I also picked up some sanding sponges. I spent probably a total of 10 minutes just roughing up the brass and sanding off the little rust spots that made me consider painting in the first place.

I taped the glass and covered it with newspaper several layers thick. I didn't paint the handles or the knobs on the chains.

I painted the outside only (figured who's going to stick their head in the fireplace to look at the backside anyway LOL), although if you intend to paint the inside of the screen or the inside of the firebox itself, I guess the high-heat paint would be smarter.

I can't stress enough the importance of waiting the full 72 hours after priming before spraying on the regular paint. You will get REALLY ugly crackles (large and raised) if the primer is not fully cured. This is the voice of experience speaking :-)

Good luck, and if you have any more questions, just ask!

This is mine.

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clipped on: 10.22.2007 at 04:51 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2007 at 04:51 pm

RE: Painting polished brass (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: roorezzi on 10.14.2007 at 06:57 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Sophie - You can absolutely paint brass fixtures. We have done many here and have some more to go. We did a FP screen and also did 2 ceiling fans. We used the rustoleum paint.
Here are some pics.
Ceiling Fan Before: Brass and ugly weave

Ceiling Fan after: Flipped over blades, replaced type of light and painted a brownish bronze.

Fire Place Before - Ugly Brass with Black doors. A lot has actually changed - no more wood trim.

Fire Place After: Painted high heat black. DH removed the screen and then mortered it back on.

Hope this helps..

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clipped on: 10.22.2007 at 04:50 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2007 at 04:50 pm

RE: Painting polished brass (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: love2weed on 10.14.2007 at 05:00 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Sophie--I just spray painted some shiny brass fixtures with the textured paint and they turned out wonderfully. They look like oil rubbed bronze now.
a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank">Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 10.22.2007 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2007 at 04:49 pm

RE: newhomebuilder? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: newhomebuilder on 08.27.2007 at 03:02 pm in Home Decorating Forum

It's not the same color! The Concord Ivory was only used in my girls bedrooms. There is a post somewhere with those rooms shown.

The color you see in the kitchen, family room and breakfast room is Decatur Buff (one step above Stuart Gold.) The dining room is Wethersfield Moss (a green.)

I also failed to mention that we have not yet come up with a backsplash that looks good with the granite.

My "puppy" just turned eight. She is a JRT named Riley. My son got her for his 12th birthday and he is now off to college in his Sophomore year. Riley misses her terribly! :(

The house was a custom design. Here is a plan that I worked on. Sorry, the rooms are not labeled.
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clipped on: 08.29.2007 at 10:32 am    last updated on: 08.29.2007 at 10:36 am

RE: Cabinet Coat Paint? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: Michael_H on 12.26.2005 at 10:40 am in Home Decorating Forum

Wow, Moon, you do nice painting!

MDF is usually primed when you buy it. As Moon cautions, don't sand it during the finishing process. If it has some rough spots, buff the primed side with a synthetic between coats sanding cloth, just enough to remove the rough areas.

Do paint all sides and edges.

CC will seal the bare MDF in one coat. It will penetrate and may even disappear, but a second coat isn't required.

Sometimes, you'll need a third coat of CC to achieve the satin sheen. The flat primer used on MDF doesn't have enamel holdout qualities, therefore you'll need to recoat until it looks right.

Are the MDF boards you're getting ready to paint primed or bare?

Michael

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clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 02:45 pm

RE: Cabinet Coat Paint? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: MoonShadow on 12.26.2005 at 08:35 am in Home Decorating Forum

Just my .02, but perhaps Michael, the pro painter, will have different/better input re: MDF

1. Yes
2. Depends on what's on the surface currently. If it's already painted a light cream or white color, I'd probably just skip the primer and go with CC -or- use Zinsser Bullseye (water-based primer). If current surface is bare and/or a darker paint/stain, on MDF I'd use a good oil-based primer (I like Zinsser's products). They have an odorless oil-based, but I've not tried it yet.
3. No sanding required nor recommended between either primer and CC or between coats of CC, doesn't matter the surface. *NOTE: Exercise caution when creating dust with MDF due to urea formaldehyde. See this article. Urea formaldehyde is always being slowly released from the surface of MDF. When painting it is good idea to coat the whole of the product in order to seal in the urea formaldehyde.
4. CC is not high gloss, however it should not appear "very flat" as you stated. On a gloss chart, it's considered satin. But to me, it looks like an eggshell that's been highly hand-buffed, if that makes sense? Goofy example, but to me it has a classy, understated effect that leaves the eye wanting more. Like a really chic and subtle clothing ensemble: it doesn't scream to force the viewer's attention, but prompts the viewer to do a double-take to "get" more of it. If it's really flat, perhaps it's a mixing issue. When I'm using CC, I stir the can well and often during the course of the project. I use one of those battery operated hand mixers (just because it's what I happened to have on hand). I initially start with a good 5 minute mix, and do intermittent mixes of several minutes at a time. You can also use one of the drill attachments for stirring paint, etc. If you do it by hand, I'd do circular and figure 8 motions for a good 10 minutes or so, to get it thoroughly mixed. If stirring regularly and thoroughly doesn't change the effect, and it's flat, the only other thing I can think of is perhaps you got a bad batch? However, if it has sheen (see photo below) but you want more, you might want to use a good quality interior latex semi-gloss.

This is my door/trim done in CC in the hallway. No flash, just overhead hallway light hitting it from an angle. For sheen comparison, the paint on the wall is BM's "Hilton Head Cream" in eggshell finish (nearly flat).
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This is my master b.r. All doors and trim in photo are painted with CC. Only natural sunlight, no flash used:
Image hosted by Photobucket.com

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clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 02:42 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 02:44 pm

RE: Cabinet Coat Paint? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: archae2 on 12.25.2005 at 08:53 am in Home Decorating Forum

I have to paint the shelves and dressers in a large built in closet which are made of MDF.
1. Would Cabinet Coat be good for this?
2. What primer should I use (I know cabinet coat does not need primer, but I read from an earlier post that it would be more cost effective to prime with a conventional primer, and then paint cabinet coat.
3. Do I sand between coats?
4. I used CC on my MDF pantry before, and found that the painted surface looks very flat (i.e. not as glossy as I would like. Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks for your help.

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clipped on: 09.06.2006 at 02:43 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2006 at 02:43 pm