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98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.

Details:

Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from theglassmosiacoutlet.com
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek

Before:

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After:

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Sink Area:

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Backsplash:

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Island:

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Island - Backside:

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Pantry Area - Closed:

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Pantry - Open:

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Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:

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A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.

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clipped on: 05.10.2012 at 08:30 pm    last updated on: 05.10.2012 at 08:31 pm

RE: diy--ikea wood counter--which poly coat? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: pawa on 04.21.2012 at 07:15 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used Epiphanes marine varnish. This is a spar varnish, which is different from polyurethane. The properties of spar varnish are that it is more waterproof and more elastic than polyurethane, but scratches easier. Spar varnish is tung-oil based. Spar varnish lends an amber tone so there is no need to stain.

Many on this board will suggest Waterlox. Waterlox is essentially a spar varnish that has been diluted about 50% with mineral spirits, and possibly a little extra tung oil added in. The addition of mineral spirits makes it lay out nicely (ie: you don't see brush strokes). But you can achieve the same thing by diluting any varnish (polyurethane or spar) with mineral spirits. Waterlox is very expensive and depending on where you live, you might have to pay for shipping. So I would advise against Waterlox because of the rip-off factor.

Epifanes is the best marine varnish there is. Don't get the spar at Home Depot or a home centre. It's not as good. I think it has less solids or something. After 7 coats of Epifanes, the varnish looks like GLASS it is insane. I am toning down the gloss down by adding "rub effect" over top. It almost seems a shame to do so given the truly remarkable perfect wet gloss, but it's not the look I'm after...Anyway, the Rub Effect stuff gives it a nice satin sheen. The rub effect stuff is actually just a polyurethane.

Do a google search for "Bob Flexner" and "Waterlox" to get the scoop on Waterlox. I think some people are deceived into thinking it's some sort of tung oil miracle concoction, which it is not.


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clipped on: 04.22.2012 at 01:43 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2012 at 01:43 pm

Amazing new Sarah Richardson Ikea kitchen

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 12.20.2010 at 03:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sarah Richardson just posted this picture on her Facebook page. It's the kitchen for the new season of "Sarah's House" that they are taping. All cabinetry is Ikea.

The backsplash, which Sarah says is her new go-to backsplash tile is honeycomb marble. Pretty great looking, I think.

I think this just goes to show that less expensive kitchens can look truly amazing.

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clipped on: 04.18.2012 at 09:49 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2012 at 09:49 pm

budget and design confusion (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mongoct on 04.11.2012 at 05:50 pm in Bathrooms Forum

The other part of your post, the confusion of where to start.

Start with a basic drawing of your room.

Have a list of what is needed for that room.

Look online or in showrooms at things you like to gauge what $$$ line of things you like. Assign a value (just ballpark it) to each thing in the room. $400 toilet, $200 sink. $300 faucet. $800 tub.

Add up your numbers. Over budget, then shop and swap numbers until you get where you need to be.

By having to focus on the individual items in the room, the entire room will slowly come into focus instead of being a blurry eye load of confusion.

For you shower base, you've ruled out fiberglass and you don't want tile and grout. Well then let me introduce you to Kohler's cast iron shower receptors. They are gorgeous, elegant, and fit most any design. Durable, easy to clean, they feel secure underfoot too. They have several styles and they come in several colors.

Remember, as you make your decisions, you don't have to get them all right the first time. You'll choose "Product A", then as you go on with other decisions you'll realize that there's something you prefer more than "Product A".

It's common to loop through the decision tree a few times before things become finalized and in full focus.

Best of luck with your project.


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clipped on: 04.18.2012 at 08:15 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2012 at 08:16 pm

My just-about-finished Super White kitchen **pics**

posted by: dragonfly08 on 03.28.2012 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our 10wk-long kitchen renovation that began on Jan 2nd finally came to an end 2 weeks ago. Moving into the kitchen has been a slow but fun process and we are enjoying every minute we spend in it. We are still missing some key items, an appliance garage (currently being made at the cabinet-maker's), microwave, furniture... but gradually, we are making this place the heart of our home.

House is a cozy colonial situated in central NY built in the 1980s that came with a magnificent piece of property. The inside, however, needed (and still needs) much update. We ripped out all the (irregular) flooring on the first floor and had them replaced. Structural changes took place in the mudroom/garage-entry area as well as the wall between kitchen and dining room (widened).

Prior to renovations, I had ZERO experience with reno of any sort, let alone in design. I stumbled upon GW and my world changed! You have all been fantastic and an invaluable source of information and support. I direct all my renovating friends here now! Your finished kitchens have all been sources of inspiration for me and I have most definitely borrowed some of your ideas (built-in paper towel holder, motion detector light switch in pantry, stone window sill...).

Lastly, this is my dream kitchen in the home we hope to raise our family in. White kitchens are fairly uncommon around these parts and so far, that is one main feature people are taken by when they first walk into our kitchen. I hope you all enjoy the photos!

Details
Cabinets: Custom-made by Concepts in Wood (Syracuse, NY), Shaker-style doors, painted BM Chantilly Lace
Counters: Super white quartzite and titanium soapstone
Main Sink: Shaws Original Sink by Rohl - 30"
Main Faucet: Single Side Lever Country Kitchen Faucet with extended spout and sidespray by Rohl
Bar sink: inexpensive stainless sink from Ebay
Bar Faucet: EcoPure filter faucet (runs water from an RO system)
Range: 36" Bluestar with griddle
Hood: Vent-a-hood
Dishwasher: Kitchenaid
Refrigerator: old Kitchenaid that came with house (plan to replace in a year or 2)
Island pendants: Restored vintage hologen industrial pendants with original Heisey glass
Hardware: Highland Ridge by Amerock in 4" and 6"
Backsplash: Bellevue 3x6 ceramic tiles in Glacier by Best Tile

Before:
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Before (view into dining room):
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Before (view into garage entry):
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Before (pantry with crazy-deep shelving):
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Before (view into family room):
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After:
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Coffee/Wine bar:
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Titanium Soapstone:
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View from Mudroom:
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Pantry:
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Microwave will sit on counter atop drawers:
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Mudroom (closet on opposite wall):
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I have to include this photo of our backsplash in the midst of being grouted, taken while my GC was at lunch. Amazing what a difference grout makes!
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Lastly, a fun shot of my girls having fun with bubble wrap and packing paper one evening when I was trying to move all my junk back in:
IMG_6816

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clipped on: 04.18.2012 at 02:54 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2012 at 02:54 pm

Quartz Countertop Problem

posted by: Klake on 07.22.2011 at 11:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I need advice, feedback. Our quartz countertop was installed in the kitchen and on a bar area. I am not going to mention the brand because I don't want to give it a bad rap. It isn't the manufacturer we're upset with, it's the fabricator. We noticed a problem with the edges and mentioned it to the installer (unfortunately after they were almost done). He tried "sanding" a small area, no help.

The edge is 1 1/4". It should be totally smooth showing the appearance of a thick "slab" of quartz. It has a small "bump" in the middle as well as some other "lines" - almost making it look like 2 pieces were put together - one on top of the other.

We've been trying to get a response from the fabricator without success so far for 4 weeks.

The bar top did not fit so they reinstalled a new one today. The edge is perfectly smooth - proving there's a problem with the rest. The installer today (different from original) said that the edge on kitchen was never sanded and polished after cutting it to size at the fabricator. He obviously does not want us to tell his "boss" what he told us.

I guess our options are:

1) Have them rip it out, replace. With this option, part of backsplash would have to be torn out and reinstalled, lose of use of kitchen, would it ruin the undermount sink? stress on cabinets? - etc., etc. I don't know if they'd try to "fix" what they rip out and reinstall or totally replace with new?

2) Have them try to sand it in the house, but installer said it would be a total mess. We saw that when the did the original install and had to cut out a hole for the stove stop.

3) Financial compensation.

If we were to go with financial compensation, what would seem like a reasonable percentage. Thankfully, we haven't paid for the countertop yet.

The thought of number 1 and 2 just makes me cringe.

Literally, there is not one thing that has gone right with this rehab. It was suppose to be totally done at the end of May. So my tolerance is getting very challenged.

I appreciate your thoughts.

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clipped on: 04.18.2012 at 02:37 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2012 at 02:37 pm

RE: Kitchen looks great if you look from far away-up close I'm cr (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: dianalo on 02.20.2012 at 06:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have had a similar experience with problems from our gc and the subs. We paid too much too soon, and they left the job with over $10k in repairs and finishing needed and we only owe them an $1,800 balance. What you need to do is to get other professionals in to write up estimates for you. You can show them to the people who did the work, so that they see you are backed up by others and that you are actively pursuing this. If you don't get satisfaction from them, try your local complaint agency. Your town's building dept can guide you where to call. The estimates and photos will be needed when you file a complaint. You want to use email as much as possible, so it can't be disputed what was said and when it was said.
Make sure you send an email or registered letter giving every contact method to reach you. The guy whose call you missed, probably had no intention of coming that day. They call and try to leave a message in order to blame you for not coming by. If you owed them money, they would call more than one number, and call more than once...
If you don't get help from the local Consumer Affairs board, then you need to go to small claims court. Sometimes, a notice to appear is all that is needed to push someone to do the right thing. Taking off from work to lose in court is something they will want to avoid...
Let them know you are angry, fierce, and like a pit bull. You will be firm and polite but will not let go until the matter is resolved to your satisfaction. Tell dh in that same tone that he is to have your back. He may want to play good cop, to your bad, or come across as mildly unhinged if he thinks he can pull it off. My dh was content to let me battle with some of the early issues until the architect went too far. He was at the house and dh had me call him at work (as a teacher). I still do not know what dh said to him on the phone, but his face went pale and he got very apologetic. He relented on something he swore he wouldn't. You'd think that the gc, having witnessed the architect incident, might have thought twice about messing with us, but no such luck. I think the gc knew my dh better by the end to know he was going to let it all slide and that I was the tough one to deal with. It still ticks me off that dh was more worried about being a nice guy and not getting his feathers ruffled than backing me up. I will make it all ok in the end, but no one pays the consumer back for the time and hassle. The best we can hope for is for everything to get fixed. I am at the 14 month mark of using a single plug in burner with no end in sight and if the gc came here in person, I'd need dh to bail me out of jail!

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clipped on: 04.18.2012 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 04.18.2012 at 01:37 pm

Advice from a hardwood rep for those shopping

posted by: boxers on 01.31.2006 at 01:33 pm in Flooring Forum

I've contributed to this forum for well over one year. I used to be a district manager for Armstrong Wood Products. We made and distributed Bruce, Hartco and Robbins. I see the same questions over and over again. What brand is best? is my favorite. You all need to realize that no one makes 100% of their own products these days. Mohawk doesn't own a sawmill, they buy wood from many sources. Bruce imports some and so do most other brands. Engineered wood comes as single plank or strips or as a 'plank' with 3 or 4 rows of 'wood' shown. In other words there are multiple varietys of 'engineered'. Wear layer is not that important. It would take a lot of 'walking' to walk thru the finish down to the wood. Prefinished wood can be recoated and won't need to be resanded. Solid isn't neccessarily better than engineered just because its thicker. Many of you seem to worry excessively about scratching, dogs etc. No one warrants against scratching etc. Your happiness will be based on finding a product that has some graining and character to help mask a problem. Laminate floors can not be refinished in any way. Laminate have a picture of wood and are not the same as engineered floors. If buying hardwood or carpet were as easy as saying buying x is the best we wouldn't be discussing all this. Education is hard but its possible to educate yourself. Best thing is to see a product installed and go with something you like. Aluminum oxide finishes are far more durable than site finished floors. This fact is from testing those products in a lab not from marketing BS. I wish I had some simple site for you to go and get your questions answered. Its a slow process I understand, but because someone posts a warning about some brand being good or bad means very little as each brand has multiple variations of the same product so it means little unless you have excactly the same. Everything has tradeoffs. What you are willing to accept may be different from the next person. I hope this helps somewhat.

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clipped on: 01.24.2012 at 11:29 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2012 at 11:30 pm

Help me love my Gagg induction!

posted by: ca_mom on 10.12.2011 at 12:01 pm in Appliances Forum

Hi all...especially Plllog. Kitchen 90% finished and trying to get used to my beautiful and easy to clean 36" induction cooktop. I love that my kettle comes to a boil in three minutes, and like the instant control up or down. I HATE the noises! My Duromatic pressure cooker buzzes on high and clicks on medium and low. My Infinite Circulon nonstick skillet makes such loud regular clicks you can hear it from the bedroom. I haven't gotten my Le Creuset out of storage yet, but am hoping for better results. I know when DH hears the odd noises, I'll be looking at replacing it with an electric smoothtop.

What cookware have you had the most quiet success with? According to the Gagg manuel the noises are normal. I expected some, but they're really loud!

Thanks much.

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clipped on: 10.17.2011 at 01:00 am    last updated on: 10.17.2011 at 01:00 am

36' Bluestar drop in open burner vs Capital Maestro sealed?

posted by: wok1 on 08.19.2011 at 03:29 am in Appliances Forum

Looking for the best "drop in" 36 inch gas cook top for wok and simmering features to replace my Dacor 36" 4 burner gas cook top. I prefer the drop in style due to cost, and less cabinetry and stonework involvement.

Bluestar:
Pros:
open burner
22,000 BTU (2 burners) and simmer burner
better configuration of burners (easier to put
wok on one side and large pot on other)

Cons:
harder to clean (no pull out tray)
may lose drawer space
non contiguous grates
ignition/service issue?
more expensive but manageable

Capital:
Pros:
center wok burner (20,000) BTU and simmer burner
easier to clean
clean lines with contiguous grates
can keep drawer space
less expensive

Cons:
sealed burners
configuration (if use wok, can't use another big pot
at the same time)

Any suggestions? I saw the Bluestar drop in at a local appliance dealer, and was impressed with it's professional look and open burners. I visited the Capital factory and was amazed with their workmanship/fit and finish. I love Capital's range (I saw their new dual gas cooktop/electric oven prototype), but it is cost prohibitive. Both Blue Star and Capital have incredible open gas burners!

In my case, I guess the main issue is Bluestar's open gas burners vs. Capital's sealed burners for wok/simmering cooking?

Thanks, meeting with our cabinetry person soon, and need to select our cooktop.



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clipped on: 10.05.2011 at 09:36 pm    last updated on: 10.05.2011 at 09:36 pm

Input on Gas Cooktops Needed

posted by: NewSouthernBelle on 09.10.2011 at 10:11 pm in Appliances Forum

I have "narrowed" down my cooktop selection to the following four: (I started with like 10.)

Bosch NGM8654UC
Thermador SGS365FS
GE Monogram ZGU385SMSS
LG LSCG366ST

Here's my spreadsheet with each of the specs to compare side by side:
Cooktop Comparision

Any thoughts, experiences, or light to shed on these cooktops? I'd love your input, especially b/c I am at a point where I am spinning my decision wheels.

As you might guess from looking at all of them, I like a powerful burner in the center. I do some wok cooking but more than that my favorite pan is a 3'' deep saute pan that I use for searing and browning. Currently I have four burners and at times, especially when I am cooking Mexican, I do use all of them at once. I do some sauces and the low simmer setting intrigues me but I don't know how often I would use it. I know the Thermador clicks on ExtraLow simmer but I haven't been able to see/hear/experience this first hand. Can anyone link me to an online video showing it? I know it annoys the heck out of some and others don't even notice. TIA!

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clipped on: 10.05.2011 at 02:09 am    last updated on: 10.05.2011 at 02:09 am