Clippings by halbert

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Can those soft close drawer rails be purchased? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: davidro1 on 04.03.2009 at 03:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, I remember now that Blum's Tip-on is a "push-open" device. I ordered Besta push latches from Ikea (along with their cabinets, drawers and soft-close for the drawers, and other things like their Blum Aventos HK, etc.).

One more thing for the OP:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60108677 Drawer damper (stand-alone, newer product)
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90108911 Drawer damper with rail (older product)
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50082036 Door bumper

HTH

NOTES:

discussion of blum hardware for replacement parts
clipped on: 04.04.2009 at 09:25 am    last updated on: 04.04.2009 at 09:26 am

Finished Kitchen-warm white cabs, marble, wood counters

posted by: blakey on 03.29.2009 at 04:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't believe it's complete, except for a bit of decorating, but it's so nice to be able to cook again. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great questions, advice, photos, suggestions and support. I feel like I got so lucky when I stumbled upon this website just as we were getting started. It helped me tremendously and so many of the kitchens served as inspiration(you'll know who you are!)

Photobucket

breakfast room

wet bar

range

sink

bookshelf

island

mud room

laundry room

Cabinets-Wood Mode
Perimeter Counters-Calacatta Crema-honed
Island top-Sapele Mahogany
Range-Wolf
Wall Oven-Miele
Refrigerator-Sub Zero
Dishwashers-Miele
Main Sink-Shaw's Original Farm Sink
Wet Bar Sink-Sink-A-Link Hammered Copper

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.30.2009 at 09:14 am    last updated on: 03.30.2009 at 09:14 am

RE: IKEA fagerland cabinet facing (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: shelayne on 03.09.2009 at 11:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,

I like the Fagerland door, but just so you know, you don't have to limit yourself to IKEA or Scherr's for your doors. Any woodworker or cabinet company can make doors for IKEA cabinets. I know, as I am doing the same thing.

Depending on the style of door you like, you can find many different vendors. You can google "replacement cabinet doors" and find a slew of them to browse. Once you find a door style you like, contact the company to see if they can bore the hinges for you for the Blum Inserta hinges. That is the IKEA hinge. The boring pattern is Blum Pattern B. The most important measurements are 3" on center, top and bottom, and 5mm from the door edge. The two pinholes flanking the hinge cup hole are 5mm on the IKEA doors, but 8mm standard. Some companies only do the 8mm insert holes, but you can buy standard Blum Inserta hinges and they will work with IKEA cabs. I have both hinges, and the only thing different about Blum for IKEA and standard Blum Inserta are the insert pins' size, otherwise they look exactly the same.

Hope that helped a little.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 03.10.2009 at 08:53 am    last updated on: 03.10.2009 at 08:53 am

RE: Edge options on Soapstone? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: berf on 01.30.2009 at 10:08 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's my eased edge. Have had it since Oct. and it's perfect. Haven't read the link from gardenburgher...and I don't know for fact, but would guess that bullnose would actually show dings more. Have to say I don't have any dings yet to speak of...
I'm also not sure full bullnose would look right with soapstone anyway---seems like too modern an edge to me for that particular material--jmo.

Photobucket

NOTES:

soapstone to covet.
clipped on: 02.23.2009 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 02.23.2009 at 08:41 am

RE: How I modified Ikea Akvist (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: nalcar on 02.14.2009 at 08:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Why I did it? Avsikt was $52.00@ vs $350.00@, so I saved about $1500.00,
enough for my Bosch DW + panel + soap and jet dry for life.

How ? Akvist is about 3/16" longer than the Kraftmaid, but ONLY IN THE inner BOX, not the aluminum framed glass door. The door is less than 1/8" different. So I trimmed the width of the Akvist particlebord box ( horizontally) to the width of the door, or less, and reassembled with strong deck screws since the camlock was no longer possible on that side.

They are mounted on the railsystem, independent of the Kraftmaids. They are mounted just a hair apart, so they look really sleek like one long window, (and still open), plus visually align fairly well to the cabs below. The only place they all actually connect is the vertical end cover panel ( see the photo) , which is held by a few small screws. The top molding is attached only to the Akvist.

Photobucket

NOTES:

Using horizontal IKEA cabinets like a light box--- effect is transom window at the top of the cabinet run!
clipped on: 02.22.2009 at 02:44 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2009 at 02:44 pm

RE: want a traditional AND modern white kitchen, help! (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: caligal on 02.11.2009 at 10:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have always loved this kitchen. It is modern yet has traditional touches.

Here is a link that might be useful: White Ikea kitchen

NOTES:

ikea kitchen-- adele mixed with abstract, upper cabinets are vertical.
clipped on: 02.14.2009 at 06:23 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2009 at 06:23 pm

RE: using a softer wood for your cabinets (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: rhome410 on 02.12.2009 at 12:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Jraz, we have only one window trimmed, but all of our door casing and baseboard, and LOTS of fir cabinetry in the house. Here are some 'fir-heavy' pics from around our house that I hope will help:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.14.2009 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 02.14.2009 at 09:31 am

RE: Neverdunn...Can you post pics of your kitchen? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: neverdunn on 12.18.2008 at 12:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sure guys... I got so caught up in my holiday baking and roasting that my hands have been covered in flour and not the keyboard. Here's some!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Before Grout and enhancer:
Photobucket

NOTES:

Lynn,
I used Crossville's Palais series. They are 12 x 18's laid in a herringbone pattern. Sanded grout, 1/8". The grout color is "Almond"

The kitchen cabinets are Medallion, Hazelnut finish, St. Andrews Door style (which is one of their mid-range door styles.) I think Lowe's Schuler calls it "Windsor"

clipped on: 02.11.2009 at 06:00 pm    last updated on: 02.11.2009 at 06:01 pm

Picture updates (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: poorowner on 02.11.2009 at 02:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Work progress pictures

cabinet lighting installed and tested

Sink install

Reference photo with counter top

1HP Garbage Disposal

After a few tries to lift it into place, Sharp R-1214 is installed and fit nicely.

plus, bamboo blinds, cover panels, and recessed supplement lights above sink

NOTES:

This is a Lavello brand sink. Poorowner's post.
clipped on: 02.11.2009 at 08:15 am    last updated on: 02.11.2009 at 08:15 am

RE: Custom bookcases or trim out mass produced modular ones? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: mongoct on 01.09.2009 at 02:13 pm in Remodeling Forum

linnea,

Basic construction is six 3/4" birch ply carcasses with 1/2" birch ply backs. Face frames are part poplar, built up in places with poplar and MDF. Shelves are birch ply.

Center bookcase shelves are 2" thick and fixed, side bookcase shelves are 1-1/4" thick and adjustable.

Paint-grade.

Basic construction is three lower carcasses with three upper stacked on top of them.

All three bottom units will be joined as one, all three are 20" deep.

Top center unit is 12" deep and pushed back against the wall for an 8" setback from the carcass it sits upon.

The two top flanking carcasses are 16" deep and are pulled forward 4" from back wall so the fronts of the top flanking units are flush with the fronts of the bottom 20" deep carcasses that they sit upon.

Wood is stained mahogany.


ABOVE: Basic stacked boxes with backs installed.




ABOVE: Boxes set in place and joined together.




ABOVE: Crown backer being built up.




ABOVE: spacer blocks.




ABOVE: Second layer of crown backer.




ABOVE: tying it all together.




ABOVE: Finished crown at breakfront, wiring lights.




ABOVE: Finished breakfront, finished wiring.




ABOVE: Pretty much trimmed out except for shelves and doors.




ABOVE: Shelves and doors installed. Black holes under bookcases are for drawers. Made those yesterday, am installing slides and drawers today.



Construction methods? I cut my sheet goods to size in a table saw. I mill my dadoes on the table saw with a stacked dado head. All carcasses glues and screwed together.

All trim profiles done with a router on a router table. White pre-primed crown was store bought.

Sorry about the "jazz improv" note on the photos, that was left over when I resized some photos way back when for my son and I never deleted it from the batch reformat settings.

Mongo

NOTES:

http://clippings.gardenweb.com/clippings/?alias=halbert&gwc_mode=edit&key=ths.gardenweb.com_forums_load_remodel_msg0120571614108.9
clipped on: 02.09.2009 at 07:18 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2009 at 07:18 pm