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What clever kitchen idea helped make you a neater person?

posted by: carinr on 10.08.2012 at 10:05 am in Kitchens Forum

Dear Forum Friends,

I haven't been around the forum much, but the change of seasons has me thinking of remodeling - especially because there's work I really should be doing! So, a question: For those of you who are, like me, not naturally neat and organized, are there features of your new kitchen that have made a real difference in how easy it is to keep on top of things? Maybe in unexpected ways?

In my eventual remodel, one giant mess problem will be solved in that my tiny kitchen currently has the only door to the back yard is thus the staging area for shoes, coats, dog leashes, misc. gardening equipment, etc. etc. In House Version 2.0, there will be a separate mudroom and a proper vestibule inside the back door, well away from the kitchen.

But I'm thinking of smaller, kitchen-specific things. Here's one: With all the messy kitchen chores to chose from, my downfall is that I hate to empty the dishwasher. No rational reason for this, but it's been that way for 40 years and is unlikely to change. In my previous house, I replaced my dishwasher with a pair of DishDrawers and it revolutionized my life, because I could use the clean drawer as the source of clean plates and cutlery and put them straight in the dirty drawer after use. I almost never put away the things that were in daily use. Not the way things are meant to be, but it had very positive effects on the whole kitchen experience.

How about you?



clipped on: 10.15.2012 at 01:48 am    last updated on: 10.15.2012 at 01:49 am

Eye-Vac info and photo

posted by: kiffgirl on 02.21.2011 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I thought I would post separately about the Eye-Vac we used in the kitchen. It is a portable, stand alone vacuum you sweep to - kind of like and electric dustpan.

We had an extra outlet installed and then had the cabinet people cut out the bottom of the sink cabinet and toe kick. It works like a charm. It can be set to manual, where you turn it on once you sweep to it or left on auto, which is how we have it (with a sensor to activate suction). It is bagless, the front panel pops out for easy emptying. It has a filter, too.




clipped on: 07.23.2011 at 07:59 pm    last updated on: 07.23.2011 at 07:59 pm

RE: Little kitchen tricks (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: dcarch on 12.05.2010 at 07:13 pm in Cooking Forum

You don't really need to have Foodsaver type of machine and spend money for the bags.

I have always used the bags for veggies and inexpensive Ziplock type bags and a cordless hand vacuum. I don't get freezer burns with my food.



See full thread
clipped on: 07.12.2011 at 08:06 am    last updated on: 07.12.2011 at 08:07 am

RE: Dandelions taking over! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 05.14.2011 at 01:49 am in Lawn Care Forum

Dandelions will invade thin lawns or lawns that are mowed too low for their type. Some lawns do better (more dense) when mowed low but those lawns are not popular in Chicago. Raise your mower to at least 3 inches. Also if you have a fescue lawn, plan to reseed at the end of summer (every summer). That will improve your grass density.


clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 09:07 pm

RE: New to keeping lawns and have a watering question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 05.11.2011 at 08:46 am in Lawn Care Forum

Frequent watering is exactly what weed seeds need to sprout. When you allow the soil to dry out at the surface, many weeds will never germinate.

First measure how much water your grass is getting. Put out a tuna or cat food can and collect the water for the time you are watering. Eventually you will be applying on the order of an inch per week in the summer and an inch per month in the cooler seasons. My sprinkler, hose, water pressure combination applies 1/8 inch per hour over 900 square feet. That's not much. I have to water for 4 hours to get 1/2 inch.

I would wean it off the daily watering. Since you are only wetting the surface, the roots will only be at the surface. You need to encourage them to dig a little deeper every time you water. Start by watering twice as long and skipping a day. Do that for a week watching it for signs that it is wilty. Don't let it wilt. Then try every third day and water a little longer. Remember you are toward once per week and only enough water so that the turf will survive for the next week. How much you water and how often is determined by your soil, shade, clouds, humidity, rainfall, grass type, mowing height (short grass needs more water), and wind.

When you are increasing the amount of water you apply, don't let the water runoff. If you see runoff, stop watering and let it soak in for 30 minutes, then resume watering. If it never seems to want to soak in, then before you water the next time, spray your lawn with baby shampoo. I use a hose end sprayer and adjust it so you just see foam coming out. Spray it evenly and then irrigate. You are not trying to irrigate with the baby shampoo, just get it out there. Baby shampoo is a good way to open up the soil and allow it to absorb moisture better. You might have to repeat every other week for a few months. Or not. For me one app is enough to last months.


clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 08:54 pm

RE: Is it too late? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: dchall_san_antonio on 05.19.2011 at 02:29 am in Lawn Care Forum

Brief tutorial.
Most grass will not grow in significantly shady areas. Around your trees might be too shady. North side of trees perchance?

You can try seeding but know this: crabgrass seed is looking for moisture right now. If you seed regular grass you will get crabgrass, too. If you can tolerate this until the end of summer (which might be right after the 4th of July for you), then you can seed safely for next season. Do you know what grass you have now (fescue or Kentucky bluegrass)? Fescue is somewhat shade tolerant. KBG is not.

Here are the basics of lawn care.

  1. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

  2. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.

  3. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above.


Tips to grow GRASS
clipped on: 05.22.2011 at 08:38 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2011 at 08:38 pm

RE: Need help using chalkbboard paint (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: richardkittyhawk on 05.04.2008 at 08:21 am in Paint Forum

I can probably help you on this problem. I will make a few basic assumptions about the product. Chalkboard paint is usually a flat oil product that produces a dead flat finish much like slate. It may have a little sheen once it dries.

First, have you sanded the area you want to paint smooth?
If you sand the area smooth and wipe the area down with surface prep, that will help ensure you have a smooth surface. Look at the surface after you sand to see any imperfections, if any, and sand those smooth.

Second, you can use Penetrol to make the product flow better. Penetrol is used by painters to aid in the flow and leveling of oil based paint. It helps to give a smoother finish. It does more than regular paint thinner and slows the drying time down. If the product dries too quickly, it will not level. Chalkboard paint tends to be rather thick so you cannot use a lot of Penetrol to thin the product without making it too thin.

Third, what kind of brush are you using? If it is oil based product, you should use a china bristle brush. How much you brush this product will affect the products ability to level itself. You want to put it on and leave it alone. Overbrushing will cause you more problems. You should only need one coat of product. You must use a light touch with the brush. Many painters prefer the Yachtsman brush by Wooster because it is reasonably priced and produces a good result. There are more expensive brushes, such as a badger hair brush that may be softer and help you, but they are much more expensive.


Penetrol to thin chalkboard paint
clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 01:17 pm

RE: How well does chalkboard paint really work? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: donaldsg on 07.06.2010 at 11:01 am in Home Decorating Forum

There are different colours now too. Haven't used it, but saw several colours at Joanne's fabrics the other day: navy and red in addition to black and green I think. Lowe's also has whiteboard paint now, which I saw in the store the other day.


Color options
clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 01:02 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 01:03 pm

RE: How well does chalkboard paint really work? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: igloochic on 07.06.2010 at 06:06 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Sherwin Williams sells a magnetic chalkboard paint....thick as mud and it feels funny to apply due to the thickness, but makes a fabulous magnetic chalkboard. We have closet doors in our basement in the townhouse done entirely in this paint (took two coats) and it washes wonderfully, is very durable, I love the stuff.

I sanded lightly between coats which makes all the difference. They also have a straight chalk board paint (they're quart pails in green) with an oil base (which our faux painter dude said was the best way to go).

I use a roller and a brush because the doors I did had detail. The light sanding took out all of the brush marks.


How to apply

Cp w/ oil base

clipped on: 05.18.2011 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 05.18.2011 at 12:58 pm

RE: Does anyone line their cabinets? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: irishcreamgirl on 03.22.2011 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

A friend of mine told me about a liner she purchased for her Ikea cabinets that she purchased at Ikea. She said it was made just the right size to fit the depth of the cabinets so she only had to cut for the width.

I do not have Ikea cabinets but I found liner just like she explained at Bed Bath and Beyond. I don't remember the name but it is transparent and has ridges in it. It is not sticky but is thick enough to lay flat and because its transparent it is not obvious like some liners.

The ridges are nice because they allow air to circulate up under my glasses if they did not dry completely in my dishwasher.

I have been very pleased with it.


See fullpost for brands
clipped on: 04.18.2011 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 04.18.2011 at 08:57 am

RE: Inset Cabinet Owners - Please Show Me Your Counter Overhang (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: macybaby on 04.17.2011 at 08:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

I went with 3/4" because I wanted to get the cooktop as far forward as possible. Also have almost no overhang on the sides because there are walkways on both ends of the cabinet run and I hate dealing with a small sliver of wall to paint, so instead I ran my cabs right to the edge.

I went through my pictures and picked out a few that sort of show the overhang.


Overhang for granite countertop -- 3/4" picured above.
Could go to 1"
clipped on: 04.17.2011 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 04.17.2011 at 10:12 pm

RE: evolution of a kitchen budget (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: laxsupermom on 08.17.2008 at 04:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our kitchen budget isn't a complete picture because we're still in the middle of the reno.

We're DIYers so there are no labor costs. Was planning on going with a local custom builder with a dollar figure in mind, but fell in love with a Kraftmaid door. We were quoted $20,000 for cabinets which is pretty much what we were planning on the whole project. I nixed a bank of cabinets that were intended for liquor and wine storage in order to be able to afford my dream countertops. I haven't actually picked the soapstone slab yet so I don't have a dollar figure on that.

The cabinets are a partial overlay cherry shaker style door with walnut pegs in the corners and honey spice glaze. The drawers are all blumotion glides. I sprung for two double trash pullouts because we recycle everything. I'll be picking out glass at a stained glass shop instead of getting the pricey cabinet co. glass. The new cabinet total came to $14,000. Although DH wants to know why we spent so much on the panel for the back of the penninsula.

We got our stainless-look appliances on Black Friday last year for $1400 for the standard depth frig, dishwasher, and range. Ideally we would have gotten a french door frig, but again I want my counters.

The internet was invaluable. 16-guage stainless steel 1 1/2 bowl sink for $180 at Clearanced pendant from Bellacor for $60. E-bay was my playground. ORB gooseneck pullout faucet w/ soap dispenser for $80. Insinkerator Evolution for $140.

I got a super duper clearance find of undercabinet led lighting for $9.47 each at Lowes.

French doors were $1000 and garden window was $500. Cork floors were $2300. Drywall materials, paint, etc. $100.

And then there are all the miscellaneous expenditures that DIYers have like a 6ft level, new sawzall, belt sander because dumb brother "borrowed" ours never to be seen again, etc.

We obviously are over budget, but I'm still getting my soapstone if I can just find the perfect slab(s)

NOTES: -- sink
bellacor -- pendant
clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 11:51 pm

RE: Show us your under $20K kitchen, part 2 (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.20.2010 at 03:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

***CROSSPOST from Finished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Farmhouse***

Hi all,

Well, we've finally got a (mostly) finished kitchen! This kitchen's been in the planning stages for 8 years and I've been in and out of this forum for just about that long-- wow, time flies! Whether I've posted or just lurked, the information I've gotten here has been INVALUABLE.

I can unequivocally say that my kitchen would not look anything like what it does without this Forum, and for that I offer my profound gratitude-- there is, quite literally, no way I could have done it without all of you, past and present.

So, here are the photos of the finished result:

For the entire album with detailed photos, just click on the link below any of the photos above!

Here are the details:

Cabinetry: IKEA Lidingo White (with glass uppers) for the perimeter, Tidaholm Brown/Black for the island
Island Knobs & Pulls: Anne at Home Farm Collection and Lewis Dolin Glass Cup Pulls (from
Perimeter Knobs and Pulls: Anne at Home Horse Collection, generic polished chrome knobs, cup pulls, and bar pulls (from
Wall Paint: BM Revere Pewter
Trim, Hood, and Fireplace Paint: Valspar Bright White (from Lowes)
Perimeter Counters: IKEA Butcher Block, stained Black with India Ink and sealed with Waterlox
Island Counter: IKEA Butcher Block, sealed with Watco food safe butcher block sealer
Main Sink: Whitehaus 36" farm sink (from
Island Sink: IKEA single Domsjo, undermounted instead of the usual overmount installation
Faucets: IKEA Hjuvik
Refrigerator: Because we grow a lot of what we eat (so we don't need to store much) and have a large fridge in an adjacent laundry room, we chose a generic small undercounter fridge (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Wine chiller: Sunbeam (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Dishwashers: Kenmore and Hotpoint, both existing and 5-7 years old
Microwaves: 8 year old Kenmores
Island Oven: IKEA Datid 30"
Hood: ProLine 36" range hood (from eBay)
Range: IKEA Praktfull Pro A50
Backsplash Behind Range: Handthrown Williamsburg brick (local brickyard, left over from another project)
Flooring: Lumber Liquidators, Hand Scraped Teak
Island and Sink Pendants: IKEA Ottava
Cabinet lights: IKEA Grundtal single puck lights
Chandelier over the Table: Progress lighting, black 5-light chandelier (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Fireplace: Style Selections 36" Vent Free LP fireplace (Lowes, off the shelf)

A few notes about the remodel, just to hit some discussion points I see come up a lot in this Forum:

Our kitchen lives in a big old 1840 farmhouse, which has been part of a working farm since the day it was built. Originally it was soybeans, but now it's part of a gentleman's farm (horses, heritage gardens and poultry), so everything has to be hard wearing and practical. It needs to stand up to heavy traffic, mud, hay, tools, and the occasional chicken (though usually when they wander in, they don't go much further than the family room, because they like the television). That definitely informed our choices for surfaces-- they needed to be hard cleanable, and ultimately easily refinished or replaced down the line.

Because the entire house already has strong architectural elements (huge moldings and built-ins), we worked within the style we already had-- all the kitchen moldings, mantels, panels and cabinets match (or are closely styled after) what already exists in the house. We definitely didn't do a period kitchen (we wanted a 2010 layout with all the conveniences), but we wanted the kitchen to look like it belonged in the house.

The big thing for us was budget-- believe it or not, the entire kitchen was done for UNDER $20K. Four big things contributed to that:

1/ We DIY'ed the ENTIRE project, start to finish. The only thing we hired out was the gas line install for the fireplace and range, because state law requires it. Other than that, all planning, demo, sourcing, and construction was on us. Might be why it took us 8 years. . .

2/ We reused what we could, and scrounged a lot, especially construction materials (which could have been buckets of money, considering all the custom work we did in the space), and kept what appliances we could. It was also a great way to be environmentally responsible on a project that, let's face it, has a lot of non-necessities involved.

3/ IKEA, IKEA, IKEA. If you're anywhere reasonably close to an IKEA, and you're on anything approaching a budget, go check it out. The cabinet quality for the price can't be beat (except for a few pockets of custom cabinet makers), and there are a lot of great accessories, appliances, lighting and other things to be had for a terrific price. As always, you have to pick and choose your items for quality and value, but at least in our experience, it is definitely there to be had for the buyer with a good eye.

4/ We didn't go for major appliance upgrades. Our whole family LOVES to cook (and eat!), and we wanted a great looking, functional space to do it all in, but we just weren't convinced that we needed more than the basics right now. If we want to upgrade down the line, it's easy enough to do, but right now our Wolf budget is standing in our barn eating hay, and our LaCanche budget is steered towards this Show Hunter prospect I have my eye on . . .

So there's our formula for a great kitchen that works for us considering the (kind of odd!) parameters we had. Hope you all can take at least something useful away from our experience.

I've submitted the kitchen to the FKB, and I'll answer whatever questions you've got. . .

Thanks again, everyone!


island stain
clipped on: 02.06.2011 at 12:07 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2011 at 12:07 pm

Finished Kitchen Pictures (except backsplash)

posted by: alliern on 11.24.2008 at 12:22 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello! I am happy to finally be able to say that our house is done and we moved from NYC to Colorado 3 weeks ago! Here are some pictures of our new kitchen...I am so enjoying it! I am still undecided about what to do for a backsplash...have to make a decision soon but I wanted to live in the house for a little while before deciding :)

DW, Fridge, microwave/convection oven (Kitchen Aid)
6 burner dual-fuel 36" range (Thermador)
Thermador Traditional Silent 42" Hood w/remote blower
Perimeter countertop Black Minas Soapstone from Dorado Soapstone
Island Countertop Honed Statuario Marble
Perimeter Cabinets custom built with BM Simply White paint
Island Custom Built Alder
Floor Owens PlankFloor 6" Walnut with Satin Water Based Polyurethane
Delta Allura Faucet and soap dispenser
Danze Pot Filler
Cabinet hardware from Restoration Hardware






island wood
contrast of island and floors
marble top on island
clipped on: 02.05.2011 at 05:51 pm    last updated on: 02.05.2011 at 05:52 pm

RE: Under sink trash pullout? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: morton5 on 11.10.2010 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have 8-gallon trash and recycling bins in pullouts under my prep sink. The cabs are Ikea, and I used the Ikeafans modification for my set-up. I also have a small disposal at this sink and a never-MT. We were able to fit it all because the GC flipped the orientation of the sink so that the rear drain is at the front. This allowed all of the plumbing to fit in a single plane. I love having trash and recycling by my prep area and do not find the placement under the sink to be inconvenient at all.


clipped on: 02.03.2011 at 01:56 am    last updated on: 02.03.2011 at 01:56 am

RE: Where do you put paper towels, wet dish towels, cutting board (Follow-Up #31)

posted by: hgluckman on 04.15.2010 at 10:01 am in Kitchens Forum

In our new remodel we kept the same location for the cutting boards, but changed it significantly. We converted a standard narrow base cabinet with some vertical dividers for the cutting boards to a pullout drawer - reusing the door front. We got the idea from a posting on GW. Here are two views:
From Kitchen Remodel

From Kitchen Remodel

chicagoans: where did you get that cutting board? I want exactly the same thing, but haven't been able to find it.


clipped on: 02.03.2011 at 01:53 am    last updated on: 02.03.2011 at 01:53 am

RE: Finished Finished! Rancher Remodel, dark to light! (tons pix) (Follow-Up #41)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 06.29.2010 at 01:47 am in Kitchens Forum

Here's the end of the backsplash and cab. You can either make the backsplash end with the cabs or with the counters. I chose to keep it in line with the cabs, but jut out the counter.
pps: The island is 9' long and the table is 8' long. We are loving the big island and the prep area! We have 4 or 3 ft as aisles and really love that wide aisle too.
Sochi: I admire so many things about kitchen. Your nice words really resonate with me! I love your style and everything in both your old kitchen and your new one. Have you decided on a backsplash?

I posted on the Bathroom forum for one of the baths, search "gray and white".

Here's a few other pics:
Before, living room:Before Remodel
Before dining room:
Before Remodel
My DD bathroom:
Before Remodel


dining room set up --table/chairs

paint in DR

clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 01.30.2011 at 12:03 am

lots more photos (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: segbrown on 12.06.2009 at 02:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

entry from mudroom/garage






(ceiling speakers to be added)


island outlets behind faux drawers




cabinet order screw-up (I didn't want this kind of pullout), but it's working fine. I will probably take out the other shelf, too, and just use the two


still need to paint over vent below refrigerator

cookie sheet/vertical storage (faux drawers)

refrigerator drawers in hutch (usually have lunch/kid stuff, still extra party beer in there now)

microwave in hutch








light fixture
drawer organization -- cutlery
clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 10:58 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 11:01 pm

RE: Subway tile w/ cream cabinets?? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jdechris on 02.15.2009 at 05:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

I purchased my marble subway tile from

I ordered several samples and all were within the price range you mentioned. I just sealed mine over the weekend.


subway tile supplier
clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 10:34 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 10:34 pm

RE: Ticor Sink--Buehl's 405D (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 01.28.2011 at 01:03 pm in Kitchens Forum


My sink went in a 36" sink base with no modifications. Our cabinets have 1/2" walls, so it is possible that if the cabinet walls were 3/4" thick it might have needed modifying, but I don't know that for certain. When I bought mine, the description stated it needed a minimum 36" cabinet.

Later, the site said 39". Then it went back to 36". It looks like it's back to 39"!

This is what the dimensions were when I bought looks like it's 1/8" wider now than mine was...but I'm sure you can still fit it in a 36" sink base.

Main Sink, Ticor S405D (Dimensions)

The sink grids were need to get smaller ones. The hole in the grid is slightly bigger than the drain, including the "frame", so it works fine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Current S405D at Galaxy Tool Supply


sink size vs cabinet size
clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 08:00 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 08:00 pm

RE: White cabinets and countertops? If so, what paint? Pics pls! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: katieob on 01.23.2011 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum


We didn't go totally white/white as we have soapstone on the perimeter counters, but we have a large island with white calacatta marble. We chose Benjamin Moore Wickham Gray for the kitchen and the adjoining family room. I love, love the color. Fresh & crisp & airy with the white.
A few other blue/grey tones we throughout the house that look great with white trim: BM Cashmere Grey, BM Quiet Moments. Good luck!

Color is mostly visible above sink:

During construction, not a great shot of the color.


clipped on: 01.29.2011 at 07:56 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2011 at 07:56 pm

RE: What do you wish you had done differently? (Follow-Up #114)

posted by: chelbell on 10.01.2007 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a couple regrets that could have been avoided with more diligence:
1) The granite guys put all my faucets/handles/hot water too close together---and I DID "for see" this prob but after I left, he decided I'd made a "mistake" and HE MOVED THEM CLOSER! Every time I wipe up, my hands don't quite fit between the fixtures--small thing, but irritating.

2) I wish I'd gone with a bigger tub. I am glad I chose a narrow--1 person tub (for less water per fill) and it IS very comfortable, but when I want to relax & lay back, it is just 6" short for MY comfort. Wish I'd spent the extra$.

What I DID do right---and I think it has saved me a lot of money AND helped a ton with problem-solving is documenting EACH stage of building with my little digital camera!!
~~I probably have over 2000 pics!! I took pics of every inch--all filed appropiately: Walls as framed (then filed by each room), Plumbing (each room--EACH wall), Electrical (which shows plumbing again) for each room/EACH wall, Walls AFTER get the idea.

**I can't tell you how many times my pics solved problems; like "I thought I put a plug there.." "NO mam, I can't feel it, so you didn't." "But I thought I did." No lady, you didn't." (I just showed pics and the contractors fixed stuff.) It helped as I was building and even now, a yr later, I've referred to the pics with electricians & especially the security/speaker guy AND even my plumber...)

Actually, I did this for the first one we built (15 yrs ago) and gave a disk of pics to the new owners. They added surround sound so the pics, of inside the walls, were helpful to the new GC.

Seems like SUCH a hassle... but it really doesn't take that much time once you start. And at first I started trying to label each pic but you don't need to--amazing how you can recognize each area--but you do need to create files for each room (within each stage of building).

I'm rambling on...LOVE this site--I lurked for a yr BEFORE we built, then thru the building process. It helped more than ANYTHING else I did!!

Tks to all, CB


take photos
clipped on: 01.28.2011 at 11:30 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2011 at 11:30 pm

RE: What do you wish you had done differently? (Follow-Up #108)

posted by: msafirstein on 09.30.2007 at 11:13 am in Kitchens Forum

I wish I had put in another pull out trash in my island.

I wish I had not installed under cab lights, I never use them and they get way too hot. After being on for a few hours, the butter which I had stored in a glass butter dish in the upper cab was totally melted. And I have Xenon low voltage that are supposed have have less heat. Maybe I will use them this winter but I doubt it.

I wish I had a outlet on each end of my island instead of just 1 end.

I wish I had put in another small farm sink in my island instead of the deep copper sink. I like my copper sink but I love my farm sink and because it is under counter the lower depth is so much easier to use.

I wish I did not have the small open shelves in my Butler Pantry. Although they look good in the over all design, they are just dust catchers and a pain to keep clean.



island outlets
clipped on: 01.28.2011 at 11:27 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2011 at 11:28 pm

RE: What do you wish you had done differently? (Follow-Up #72)

posted by: lynninnewmexico on 08.29.2007 at 10:45 am in Kitchens Forum

This will be the second custom kitchen in this house . . . the first was when we built it 14 years ago. As I planned for this new (total gut) redo, these were the things I most wanted to change . . . the things I've been regretting for the past 14 years:
~ should have done drawers instead of so many cabs with pull out shelves. It's been a PIA to open the doors and then pull out the shelves. The shelves are always getting caught on the doors when pushing them back in. With this new redo I'm getting lots of drawers.
~ wish I would have thought about where I would be doing most of my prep work and put in a bank of drawers right there to hold all my prep tools, ziploc bags, aluminum foil, etc so that I wasn't running all over our kitchen getting the things I need.
~ Planned for other work stations in our kitchen. We're a family of cooks and at present we're always running into each other.
~ wider walkways
~ wish we'd have not blindly trusted our builder's choice for a custom cabinet maker. Wish we would have done our research first and talked to many of his other clients . . . we'd NEVER have hired him! We have a gorgeous, totally custom home with horrible cabs that have been falling apart for the past 13 years.
~ wish we would have thought more about the view from our family room into the kitchen. For the past 14 years we've had a lousy view of our refrigerator!
~ a bigger pantry
~ a big drawer to store my Tupperware.


prep are and island drawers
clipped on: 01.28.2011 at 11:00 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2011 at 11:01 pm

Finished pics - Creamy white, stained island

posted by: marmoreus on 01.25.2011 at 11:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is long overdue (we finished at the end of last August), but I wanted to thank all you Kitchen forum members for the great help. Thank you, thank you!!! I've really appreciated all the great information on this site. It has been such a helpful resource as we built a house for the first time.

On to the pictures.







So far the kitchen is working out really well for us. Other than not loving the performance of my wall oven, I am happy with how it all turned out.

The details:

Perimeter cabinets: Decora (Chantille finish on maple)
Island cabinets: Sorrento (Hermosa finish on alder)
Backsplash: Walker Zanger Gramercy Park (Heirloom White and Pipe Smoke)
Granite on perimeter: Antiqued Nordic Black (love this!)
Granite on Island: Alaskan White
Pendant lights: Schoolhouse Electric
Knobs & pulls: Amerock Highland Ridge
Barstools: Restoration Hardware (bought during Friends & Family sale--20% off--yay!)
Wall color: BM Revere Pewter
Flooring: walnut w/ Waterlox finish
Sink: Shaw's farmhouse sink
Sink faucet/soap dispenser: Danze Opulence
Range: NXR
Wall oven: Kitchenaid
Fridge: Bosch
Dishwasher: paneled Bosch
Micro: cheapo GE

Thanks again!


wall color
clipped on: 01.27.2011 at 10:26 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2011 at 10:26 pm

Kitchen Reno Complete! Pics!

posted by: hellonasty on 01.02.2011 at 04:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before and after pics

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To show wallpaper detail:
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I’m finally posting pics of our long dreamed about kitchen renovation! We didn’t add on to the space at all but we moved stuff around to make better use of the space. We moved the sink, heat, removed one window and changed another one. We took down the dividing wall, removed the front hall closet to expand the area for the relocated breakfast nook and moved the range and fridge to opposite wall. We now have a long L and it’s so much better. We’re very pleased to have a vent hood and dishwasher for the VERY first time and way more counter space than before. And wow, having landing spaces on either side of the range is such a simple luxury we missed in the old kitchen.

Then plan is to put a TV above the microwave, and we need to plan on a window shade.

Thanks to everyone here for all of the invaluable info I was able to receive! I spent tons of time here… my husband thought I was nuts… but now that the kitchen is done and he didn’t have to stress at all (I handled just about everything from the planning to the shopping to the managing the GC and subs and cabinet people, etc. This kitchen was MY baby) he realizes what a tremendous help gardenweb was to me! A special shout out to my new friend cat_mom who has a kitchen I drool over and who helped me a lot throughout the reno!

Cabinets: Brookhaven Vista frameless slab in Maple veneer, stain: Sierra
Countertops: Silestone in Gedatsu
Backsplash: from CANCOS TILE; Mirage Glass color MG-05 (glossy) in 6x12 and 3x6 (over bench)
Faucet: JADO Coriander Collection Single Handle Pullout in polished Chrome w/ matching soap dispenser
Sink: JULIEN Urban Edge 3607 21x16x10 zero radius w/Grid
Floors: REFIN CERAMICHE in Satin Wenge 12x24
Range: WOLF Gas 30”
Hood: FARBER Stilo 36”
DW: GE Monogram
Fridge: GE FD CD “Café”
Microwave: GE Spacesaver with built in kit
Pulls & Knobs: Top Knobs
Wallpaper: from the MISSPRINT collection MUSCAT in Stone

And a favorite memory during the renovation… the day the appliances were installed, my contractor and his team literally made fun of the fact that the dishwasher has a light in it. They thought it was such a silly thing, to have a light in the DW. This is our very first DW and well the Monogram came with a light (which I didn’t even know btw)… I have to admit, I felt a little embarrassed as they were laughing at me. They made me a little ashamed to have a light in the DW! Well, let me tell you something. One of my very favorite things in the new kitchen is that darm light in the DW! I love to keep the lights very dim in the kitchen when I can and it’s dark in there. The counter and floors are both brown, and the inside of the DW is dark. Having that light is a real perk! You wouldn’t see anything in there if the light wasn’t there. So to my contractor and his crew (who I really like btw)… pffffffffft! Yer just jealous cause my DW has a light and yours doesn’t ;)

And might I add at this point… I didn’t mean to have 3 GE appliances, it just turned out I liked the looks and each appliance had specific features we were looking for. I was a little scared the GE might be crap, but we’re actually very pleased with all of it!!


clipped on: 01.27.2011 at 06:51 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2011 at 06:51 pm

RE: Butler's Pantry (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxerpups on 01.27.2011 at 03:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love butler's pantries.
Here are a few from my favorites.


Things that Inspire

Stacey Bowers Butler's Pantry

EGD Kitchen Winners

Skaker Cherry Butler's pantry

French Doors



From Willow Decor


DP Zaveloff Traditional Kitchens Pantry


English Blue pantry


Willow Brook Park

Ella and Baba blog


clipped on: 01.27.2011 at 06:42 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2011 at 06:42 pm

cluttered chaos to clean and calm: finished!

posted by: carriea on 12.30.2010 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I finally figured out how to post photos and wanted to share our finished kitchen. While I didn't post often, I lurked ALL the time and gleaned invaluable advice from this forum. Many thanks to the GW collective insights!

Cabinets maple painted white dove; end piece - cherry wood
Countertops: honed antiqued Carrara marble
Sink blanco
Faucet- hans grohe
Fridge - Kitchenaid
Ovens and cooktop Thermador
Microwave drawer - Sharp
Hood - Best
Backsplash - Ann Sacks
Paint - BM Silver Marlin

Here it is: I tried to arrange photos before and after...
















Inspiration photo -- sofas like ours
clipped on: 12.30.2010 at 10:08 pm    last updated on: 12.30.2010 at 10:09 pm

RE: Uncommon Countertops (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ccoombs1 on 10.26.2010 at 11:12 am in Kitchens Forum

Good idea! If you want them to look really nice, spring for some cabinet grade plywood at $50 per sheet, which works out to $1.60 per sq ft. Then you can put a good coating of Waterlox sealer on them and use them just as you would regular countertops for as long as it takes to get what you really want. If you want something even nicer, get IKEA butcher block for around $10 per sq ft. That you could easily live with for years!

I agree with laxsupermom....go with what you love, even if it means waiting for a while until you can afford it.


Plywood countertops
clipped on: 12.29.2010 at 10:14 pm    last updated on: 12.29.2010 at 10:15 pm

RE: Would a pendant w/bulb showing make you crazy? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: malhgold on 10.28.2010 at 10:21 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are my clear pendant lights. At first, I kept staring at the bulb, which was annoying, but I don't even look at it anymore. Doesn't bother us in the least


clipped on: 12.27.2010 at 09:26 pm    last updated on: 12.27.2010 at 09:26 pm

RE: smaller drawers on bottom of base cabs? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: gizmonike on 04.27.2009 at 03:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I think it would look strange to have short drawers on the bottom; it just looks more stable to have short at the top, deep at the bottom.

We store trays, rack, & pans in after-market vertical racks above our steam oven. Over our Advantium, we store big casserole dishes & platters at the bottom of the cabinet, with a shelf set just above them for vertical storage of sheet pans, wire cooling racks, trays, etc. I'm 5'2" & can pull out everything without a step stool. We're also doing the low shelf trick in the cabinet over the refrigerator for roasting pans, but I do need a stool for things on the next shelf up (big stock pots). I put cutting boards in a rack & store it under my prep sink. We have two pullouts flanking our range for vertical storage of broiler pans & skillets. We also utilize a narrow pullout for storing extra oven racks. These are just a few ideas to deal with shallow items without using drawer space.

Oven storage


Prep sink pullout


sink cabinet
clipped on: 12.26.2010 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 12.26.2010 at 04:06 pm

RE: Prof. Install Vs. DIY for Vent/Range Hood (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: heartsurgeon on 05.03.2008 at 11:00 am in Appliances Forum

My hood install looked alot like the one pictured above.

Couple of pointers:
read the installation directions OVER and OVER. Be prepared for lots of "dry fitting" before the final mount.

Some unexpected "things" that came up during my install.
1)If your putting in a stainless backsplash that runs from the range up to the hood...put it in before you mount the can hide the upper and lower ends of the stainless behiond the appliances that way.

.BUT be careful when putting up the hood, cause stainless scratches REALLY easily when your pushing sheet metal around.

I purchased a brushed stainless steel panel, cut to size from a local sheet metal (HVAC) fabricator..cheaper than buying from sure they cut it with a machine cutter, and not by hand..cutting by hand leaves a "wavy" ripple in the stainless panel. Only the machine can cut it flat, without distorting the stainless.

We remodeled, and had custom cherry cabinets built. The carpenter put them in square and plumb...but the wall behind the cabinets WASN"T plumb! So I had to get some cherry colored silicone caulk to fill in the gap behind the cabinets.

Then, when i mounted the hood, plumb with the cabinets, there was a 1/4 inch gap between the backsplah and the hood..oh's not really noticable.

when i created the appropriate cutouts in the cabinetry above the hood, where the right angle duct work ended up, it was a very cramped area to work in. I found a cheapo mini-sawzall (Handisaw by Black and Decker that was critical in cutting out the cabinet, drywall, and plywood sheeting behind the wall. It was small enough to fit inside the cabinet, and allow me to get the cutting done. I also used a chisel and a drywall saw to get the job done, but the Handisaw made life much easier.

i placed a 90 degree angled vent pipe directly to the top of the hood, and ran it straight out through an exterior wall. I was lucky because I did not have any wall studs in the way..if you run into a stud..i'm not sure how best to proceed. I cut out a circular hole through the drywall, the exterior plywood sheet, and ran into the exterior brick. I drilled a hole through the mortar to the outside. stuck a piece of paper over the brick marked the location of the finder hole (which was off center, and marked out the circumference of the duct on the paper. I made a mark on the paper to indicate which end was up. This allowed me to outline on the brick outside, where i would have to make a hole.

I had never cut brick, so i hand a neighbor do it for me..he basically used a small circular diamond blade (3-4" i think) on a small handheld saw, and cut out the brick. it wasn't very pretty, but it was all covered up by the exterior vent hood.

Duct tape to connect all the pieces together.

i finally used some expanding urethane foam to "caulk" around the duct to seal off the exterior from the house. Be sure and buy the foam that has "low expansion" and use it SPARINGLY. The foam expands LIKE CRAZY and can actually distort or collapse the vent pipe!! Put i WAY LESS than you think, and give it 24 hours to stop expanding, then add more foam with a second application, if you must.

when you cut the brick, tape off the inside of the tunnel you've created to the vent hood, because brick grit will rain into your new appliances, and you will have a hard time getting all the grit out of your hood/vent/range...

good luck and god speed!


clipped on: 12.24.2010 at 07:18 am    last updated on: 12.24.2010 at 07:19 am

RE: Seeking images of modest or quirky kitchens... (Follow-Up #126)

posted by: kitchendetective on 05.24.2010 at 04:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

From House Beautiful, not too long ago. Knocked my socks off.


clipped on: 11.23.2010 at 01:07 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2010 at 01:07 pm

RE: Seeking images of modest or quirky kitchens... (Follow-Up #63)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.09.2010 at 11:07 am in Kitchens Forum

Momtwo4boys, Love your creative pantry plans.

Here are a few more cute quirky, fun, differnent or tiny
kitchens. I love all kitchens. ~boxer


Country Living old sink

Butcher block and fabric covered cab doors

Willow Decor

French Fantasy (all the little people wash dishes, a
perfect rule in my house for kids...)


clipped on: 11.23.2010 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2010 at 01:05 pm

RE: Seeking images of modest or quirky kitchens... (Follow-Up #29)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.05.2010 at 09:27 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are a few I love.

Brazilian kitchen


My favorite. Beautiful and fresh

Very earthy South African Kitchen

Beach Mag

Concrete Kitchen

AZ Central

Kutch Craft


click on title to see more
clipped on: 11.23.2010 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2010 at 01:04 pm

RE: Banquette Cushion Questions -- nats-md or others? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: nats-md on 07.20.2009 at 02:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hey starfish, sorry I've been away for awhile --

We got bench cushions , 2 on each side (about 40 inches long each) 3 inches thick. They're upholstered w/sunbrella outdoor fabric (good for kids). They're striped and I think look great -- I'll try to post a picture later. I ordered some extra fabric and was trying to figure out what to do w/the backs, but may end up doing nothing. We just got one throw pillow, but maybe will make a few more with the fabric, I don't think the seats need back cushions (they're a lot like gglks above).

Oh- we ordered them online, they have zippers so they can be washed. I think the website was It was out of Alabama and the bill is from "Online Commerce Group". I think the cost was a little over $100 per cushion (which is about half of the cost of a local store doing it).


Cushion source
clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 09:31 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 09:31 pm

(Attaching photo) Banquette sticker shock! (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 01.14.2010 at 12:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry, I meant to link the photo in the text. Here it is so you don't have to follow the link:


clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 09:07 pm

RE: Banquette sticker shock! (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 01.14.2010 at 12:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Maybe I just got really lucky, but I'm in the process of having the same basic thing you just described built for me (in fact, it's done, we're just waiting on the install). I designed it and he built it to my specs, with sliding doors on the front panel and a "morgue drawer" on the end, with a little shelf/cubby area on the other end. It will be painted, so undoubtedly that kept the materials cost down (it's paint-grade maple for everything but the seat, which is MDF).
He's charging me $450 installed, but I'm doing the finishing.

What's shocking me is the cost for the cushions! Anyway, maybe it's worth a bit more looking.

I'm attaching a photo of it in his shop.

Here is a link that might be useful: Banquette


clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 09:05 pm

DIY Banquette with Coffin Drawer - Pics

posted by: bethv on 08.19.2008 at 10:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our banquette was one of the key parts of making our kitchen plan work. But, we had a devil of a time trying to reverse engineer a plan from all of the pictures we saw. So I thought I would post ours with pictures & info as a small contribution to offset all the wonderful help and advice we got from the amazing GWers.

Hats off to my fantabulous DH for his perseverance with the arced wall and making the drawer work!!

Of course, many will recognize the inspiration from kitchenkelly and her fantastic morgue drawers : ) Our drawer is very tall so I think of it as the coffin drawer. Okay, so we keep the dog food & treats in it - but everyone needs a little levity in with their storage solutions.
NOTE: The bench isn't trimmed out yet, I'm posting now 'cause marilyn234 was asking for help with bench plans.
The table is a soapstone top support by 2 oak planks and a 4x4 table leg. The planks are 12" and 8" wide. It's 30 wide by 60 long. The table is rounded at the right end and the left end is flat and sits into a wall/frame on the peninsula end. The face of the peninsula is covered in bead board that was scored in the back to make it curve. The effect is a left curve to the table top. The leg against the peninsula is a half leg. The idea was to have the peninsula hug the table and not look like two squares butted up against each other. The soapstone on the peninsula was cut to arc in to mirror the curve on the outside end of the table. The top of the arc is 4" deep by 30 wide.
We got BM satin impervo matched to cabinets and painted everything to match.
Here's a picture of the bench frame. The heal kick is tall - the seat hangs out to create the heal kick. The drawer isn't centered because we would run into the wall if we did - or we'd only have a shallow drawer. The back of the bench is 30" tall. We wanted it short because the chairs face a fireplace. It is good height - very comfy. the bench is 54" long and 17.5 deep (finished seating depth). A detailed plan with measurements is below.
The bench is very comfy with the angled back and the foam padding. The bench seat is plywood with 3" foam & batting and the back is plywood with 2" foam & batting. The foam was angle cut where the seat and back meet. I used a bread knife because I could NOT find the electric knife - word of advice - FIND THE ELECTRIC KNIFE!!!! I used sharpie to draw the angle and lines on the foam. You may notice that I screwed that up the first time and had to glue it back together and re-cut it (with the freakin' bread knife!). The foam also hangs over each exposed edge by at least 1". I would have it over hang the sides more so we could use a wider trim. The foam stops 1-2" from the seat inside edge so the back can rest there. You need to affix the foam to the plywood with a spray adhesive - I used 3M adhesive. We covered the foam in upholstery fabric using a stapler. It's a bit tricky to get the pattern to line up so make sure you have plenty of overhang to adjust up/down & left/right. We laid it all out - both seat and back - taped everything down - stapled the back - then lined up the seat again - re-taped and stapled it.

The drawer is a big box of pine planks that are screwed together. The screws run perpendicular to the force so it's very sturdy. We used orange shellac and lacquer to finish the wood. You can see in the photo above the 1x4s that run horizontally inside the frame bottom to hold the drawer glides. The drawer box is 48" long x 10.5 tall x 16.75 wide (outside measurement). We got a drawer face from our cabinet company. It's wonderful!!!!! (Can't wait unit the drawer pulls arrive!)

We keep the dog food, meds and treats in here. I got bins from the container store that each hold about 20 lbs of dog food. Maybe I should call it a trough drawer!
In this picture you can kind of see the wall/frame that is attached to the peninsula to support the table.
a href="" target="_blank">Photobucket

IT still needs trim along the sides and bottom of the seat (beaded screen trim) and base board on the bottom of the bench and peninsula.

Here's the plan:

Drawer glides: 037 series 47.24 full extension 255lb capacity - $105 a pair - great deal


clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 08:18 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 08:51 pm

RE: Banquette seating against windows (height?) (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: shanghaimom on 10.27.2010 at 09:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

On ours, the sill/top of bench is 37" from floor. The back of the bench (it is somewhat sloped) is 24" from the end of the table. Since it is the short end, it doesn't get used much for eating--mostly just laptop/homework action. Here's a pic:


window frame
clipped on: 11.19.2010 at 08:09 pm    last updated on: 11.19.2010 at 08:10 pm

RE: 36' walkways??? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: buehl on 11.12.2010 at 08:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

pricklypearcactus...if you have inset cabinets then yes, you can reduce your counter overhang to 0.5" or less. The reasoning behind the 1.5" is...

(1) The cabinet box/carcass is what's 24" in a 24" cabinet.

(2) Doors & drawer fronts are approx 1" thick so now you have cabinets + doors/drawers = 25"

(3) You don't want things to spill from the countertop and into your drawers or cabinets nor do you want things to spill down the fronts of your doors or drawer you add another 0.5" or so, giving you a total of 25.5"

(4) It's also nice to have your counter cover most, if not all, of your drawer pulls & knobs not only for cleanliness' sake, but also so you don't bump them while working at the counter. Rounded pulls/knobs are probably only an annoyance, but if you have a knob or drawer pull w/an end, it might be more painful (or you could catch it on pants/shorts pockets).

With inset cabinets, the doors & drawer fronts are inset into the cabinet, so they don't stick out that extra 1". However, I would still go with at least a 0.5" overhang to protect cabinets, doors, and drawer fronts.

BTW...flush counters are usually for more "modern" or "urban" kitchens and usually with non-wood cabinet materials (like metal) least from what I've seen. I could be wrong, of course!


clipped on: 11.13.2010 at 09:49 am    last updated on: 11.13.2010 at 09:49 am

RE: Cabinet add-ons and upcharges (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: ksfaustin on 03.07.2008 at 03:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'll chime in on this. Like Housecrazy, I have Shiloh cabinets in cherry wood, the "red" stain, and black glazing. I don't think the glazing is bad on mine, although your mileage may certainly vary, especially on painted cabinets. The store I purchased my cabinets from had a display with the red cherry and black glazing, so I knew exactly what to expect.

I priced virtually the same kitchen in Kraftmaid from Lowe's, and with the glaze, the prices were almost identical. But I thought the Shiloh cabinets were better quality - all wood construction vs. MDF boxes, reversed-panel recessed doors vs. the very thin center panels on the KM. On some of the upgrades, Shiloh actually had a price advantage. For example, the upgrade the Blumotion soft-close feature was $40 per drawer on KM and only $8 per drawer on Shiloh. I have 23 drawers, so that was significant. (I also had Mariposatracionera's bad KM experience from a couple of years ago ringing in my ears - though I know that others on this forum have had good KM experiences.)


clipped on: 11.13.2010 at 01:56 am    last updated on: 11.13.2010 at 01:57 am

Finished! I love my white, marble, wood kitchen!

posted by: jlynn17 on 09.08.2010 at 01:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally, it is done! We have been out of the house for nearly 8 months for a home renovation. So happy to be back in and love the results. Thank you all for your help on this site. I didn't post much but I was on the site a lot and the discussions and pics really helped with my decisions. I did everything I was told not to do: white marble, wood, polished nickel, etc. But I wouldn't change a thing. Sure I wish the marble didn't etch (yes, plenty of etching but as of yet, no stains) but it is still beautiful and I wouldn't have been as happy with any other stone I was considering. My theory: if it makes you happy, go for it!

Here are pics and the details:

Perimeter Counters: Calcatta Gold
Island top: Black Walnut with vintage walnut stain
Cabinets: Custom
Paint on cabinets/trim: BM Swiss Coffee (color tweaked by paint store)
Wall color: Pratt and Lambert Pearl
Wolf 48" Range with double griddle (love this!)
SubZero s/s 48" Fridge with icemaker
Sharp microwave drawer
Bosch D/W (we have 2 and it was a great decision if considering this)
GE Monogram hood blower
GE wine cooler
Perrin and Rowe Faucet - PN
Shaw Farm Sink 30 x 18
Pantry: custom built
Paint on Pantry: Farrow and Ball Pigeon
Hardware on Pantry: Restoration Hardware Felicity in Antique brass
Kitchen Hardware: Restoration Hardware Aubrey Knobs - PN
Restoration Hardware Bistro Pulls - PN
Rejuvenation small latch - PN
Backsplash: Arctic white Daltile with platinum grout
Bell Jars - JV Imports - 11"D with bronze finish
Bar Stools: Crate and Barrel Pullman Leather Counter Stools

I will get pics up of laundry and bathrooms soon too!


island countertop
clipped on: 11.12.2010 at 02:50 am    last updated on: 11.12.2010 at 02:52 am

RE: White cabinet paint color. How to choose? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: boxerpups on 09.19.2010 at 08:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I agree with KateKouros,
look at all the whites and start to narrow down the ones
you love.

Everyone said WhiteDove was the way to go. But, I found a
color I fell head over heels in love. It is called
Powdered Snow by Behr. Ben Moore mixed a paint color that
is exactly like this Behr shade. And I am thrilled with
the look. It is a soft, creamy white that is not too
creamy but not stark white. It feels like a snowy day.
For me and my space with the natural light, the floors,
walls, counters... it makes my heart sing. Love it.

Get what you love and don't be afraid. You will find that
color that makes it all come together.


Some white kitchens that are not all BM dove white...

BM Oyster Shell and Linen White

BM Cloud White

BM Cloud White

BM Woodland Snow

BM Linen

BM Super Satin White #2

BM Dove White

BM Dove White

BM Sea Shell


clipped on: 11.12.2010 at 02:42 am    last updated on: 11.12.2010 at 02:42 am

RE: When can we put things back in cabinets? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: westsider40 on 11.11.2010 at 01:11 am in Kitchens Forum

Also, it's been recommended that blue tape is placed on the glides(slides) so that countertop or other dust doesn't muck up the sliding operation. Sounds right to me.


clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 05:33 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 05:33 am

RE: When can we put things back in cabinets? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: numbersjunkie on 11.10.2010 at 01:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Definitely wait until the granite goes in and your cooktop and/or sink is installed. I had my granite installed yesterday, but the cooktop doesn't fit right so they have to come back and cut some more. The dust they made yesterday was horrible and I'm not looking forward to cleaning up all that dust again. It even got into my drawer slides which my contractors had to remove and clean with an air gun.


clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 05:32 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 05:32 am

my finished nyc galley kitchen!

posted by: calypsochick on 10.18.2010 at 09:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to everyone for all the advice and words of wisdom! Our NYC galley kitchen is pretty much done. You can see more photos and information here and I'd be happy to answer any questions:










dead flat paint, widow sill
clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 04:44 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 04:45 am

RE: Tell me about your favorite cabinet insert or storage soluti (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: boxerpups on 10.03.2010 at 07:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

If I could have a dream piece of storage, this would
be it. A secret door with all sorts of goodies behind it.


And here are a few other clever ideas that hopefully
someone can make work in their space.


Ebenstein kitchens










blue kichen--display pieces/spice drawer
clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 04:41 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 04:42 am

RE: Tell me about your favorite cabinet insert or storage soluti (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: warmfridge on 10.03.2010 at 11:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am disabled from a back injury, so one of the goals of my renovation was to eliminate all of the bottom cupboards and replace them with drawers and pull-outs, as well as a corner Super Susan.

Island with giant pot drawers and trash pull-out:

Liquor "cabinet" consisting of 2 pull-outs:

Sink organization (also has tilt-outs):

Top drawer holds cutting boards, bottom holds cookie sheets:

Roll-outs for canned goods and slot next to oven for cooling racks:

I don't have this, but I think it's great for baking pan storage. I built 14'' uppers, so I put my infrequently used pans in the cupboard over the refrigerator.


under sink
clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 04:38 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 04:39 am

RE: tray cabinets - top 1/2 wasted space (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: needanap on 07.29.2007 at 05:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here is mine. I have only one tray divider on the right in this cabinet, for cutting boards. On the left, I keep the wok and baskets. The shelf above is great! I keep large serving trays, the pizza stone, and the griddle there. Those items could also go vertically in another tray divider, but this is how it ended up working for me. Great use of space, IMO. Works best for items that I don't access every day. They are tucked up and out of the way.
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clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 04:35 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 04:36 am

RE: Tell me about your favorite cabinet insert or storage soluti (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: buehl on 10.01.2010 at 11:45 am in Kitchens Forum

I think these two are my favorites....

First, my tray storage (muffin tins, roasting pan, broiling pan, cookie sheets, cooling racks, pizza pans, etc.)

Tray & Platter Storage, Cabinet Above the Ovens, 31

This cabinet is above my double ovens. Two things about this I like:

(1) The slots allow me to store everything in such a way that I can quickly and easily get exactly what I want w/o having to paw through a stack of trays, etc.

(2) Platter storage...Because this cabinet is 24" deep, I can store all my longer platters and griddle lengthwise here.

Also, notice the location of the shelf...removing a tray (or cookie sheet, muffin tin, cooling rack, etc.) only requires pulling out by a bottom corner, access to the top of the trays, etc. is not needed. So, to increase "reachable" storage, the trays are actually on the shelf and the platters & griddle are on the floor of the cabinet. This way, the platters & griddle are easily reached as well as the trays, etc.

Second, my trash/recycle pullout with Junk Drawer above. The dogs can no longer get into the trash and I no longer have to find floor space for a stand-alone trash can. This also gives me room for two bins...the front bin holds trash, the back recyclables. So no more piling up of recyclables on the counter for a recycle run to the garage.

Trash Pullout, 18

OK...there are three things that are my knife storage. I was never particularly happy storing my knives in a knife block on the counter. It took up too much space. I like this much, much better!

Cooking, Knives, & Prep Tools Under Cooktop (top drawer), 36''

I also like how I now have most of my prep & cooking utensils & tools organized so no more pawing through a drawer looking for just the right tool.

Here's my husband's favorite...our "Pet Zone". In our old kitchen, we stored the dog food in the pantry and the other "doggy items" scattered around the house. Now, everything is in one place and right next to where we feed them.

Pet Center Inside, 27

One thing though...this was supposed to be a pullout w/the bottom "shelf" attached to the door and a roll out tray shelf (ROTS) inside. It was something I missed in the final cabinet order. B/c it's against a wall, we had to put in filler to allow the left door to open 90 degrees...and that's about all it opens. The other problems w/the configuration we ended up with, is that we have to pen two doors completely b/f we can pull out any of the ROTSs. If they're not open all the way, they ding the doors. Ditto for making sure the ROTSs are completely inside the cabinet b/f closing the doors. Oh well!


utensil drawer
clipped on: 11.11.2010 at 04:02 am    last updated on: 11.11.2010 at 04:04 am