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RE: yellow rose leaves, clay soil, please advise me, soil experts (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: michaelg on 07.21.2013 at 10:31 am in Antique Roses Forum

Lux--

1. Most of the leaves are an even light green--nitrogen deficiency.
2. New leaves are pale with greener veins--iron deficiency.
3. Oldest leaves have pale margins with wide green bands along the main veins--magnesium deficiency.

I would not apply epsom salts without either a soil test or very clear symptoms of Mg deficiency. Some soils have excessive Mg which causes other deficiencies.

Bone meal will not help with yellow leaves. Excessive P can cause other deficiencies. Most soils that contain some clay have ample P already, or even excessive P if they have been fertilized for years.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 04.04.2014 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2014 at 12:32 pm

RE: hydrogen peroxide for blackspot resistance (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: henry_kuska on 06.06.2013 at 02:04 pm in Roses Forum

1 mM means having a concentration of one thousandth of a mole per litre. The molecular weight of H2O2 is 34. So a 3 mM solution has 0.102 grams of H2O2 per liter. With the assumption that 1 liter weighs 1000 grams, we have a concentration of 0.01 %. The drugstore hydrogen peroxide is 3% so one would add 1 ml of the commercial hydrogen peroxide to every 99 ml of water to have a 3 mM solution.

------------------------------------------------

For diseased rose seedlings, I recommend one drop of undiluted drugstore hydrogen peroxide.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/hydrogenperoxide.htm

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For general damp off protection of rose seedlings, I recommend 5 ml of 3 % drugstore type hydrogen peroxide to every 95 ml of water.

http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/Whattodowhenseedsprouts.htm
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The paper cited in the rose rosette thread used 20 mM hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to supress virus in tobacco.

""In spite of the enormous information from research on genetics of plant disease resistance, the question still remains unresolved: what is directly inhibiting or killing pathogens and suppressing symptoms in resistant plants? This is particularly true for resistance to viral infections. Here we show that externally applied reactive oxygen species (ROS) such as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) or ROS-producing (O 2·− [superoxide] and H2O2) chemical systems infiltrated into tobacco leaves 2 hours after inoculation suppress replication of Tobacco mosaicvirus (TMV) in the susceptible Samsun (nn) cultivar. This was determined by a biological and a real-time PCR method. Infiltration of leaves of the resistant Xanthi (NN) cultivar with the ROS-producing chemicals and H2O2 significantly suppressed local necrotic lesions (i.e. the hypersensitive response) after inoculation of tobacco leaves with TMV. Accordingly, an early accumulation or external application of ROS, such as O 2·− and H2O2, in tobacco may contribute to the development of resistance to TMV infection."

http://www.akademiai.com/content/q055880253up3p57/

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The rose rosette thread is at:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg0417381111236.html

Here is a link that might be useful: rose rosette hydrogen peroxide thread

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clipped on: 04.01.2014 at 08:43 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2014 at 08:44 pm

RE: A lot of thorns on the rosebush? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: roseseek on 07.07.2013 at 03:40 am in Roses Forum

MANY roses exhibit red new growth. The picture of the prickles you've posted don't look abnormal for many varieties to me. Plus, the foliage on that cane appears normal. Take a look at the photos on the site I've linked below. Click on the images there to view them larger. You'll see how distorted RRD infected growth is and how yours appears to be normal. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Rosette Disease

NOTES:

RRD
clipped on: 03.29.2014 at 08:37 am    last updated on: 03.29.2014 at 08:37 am

RE: What did you order that's new to you in 2014? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: growing_rene on 02.15.2014 at 07:01 am in Antique Roses Forum

Cecile Brunner (shrub, I do not have space for her as a climber!)
New Dawn (kind of nervous about her monstrosity but she is a beauty & I have a plan!)
Eglantyne - I couldn't resist!
Lady of Shalott
Munstead Wood
Barbra Streisand (hoping to get moonstone instead, we shall see if they can make that change for me)
I can't wait, just a couple more weeks!!

Next on my list are going to be purples (including mauves and lavenders) and yellows. I have mostly pinks and reds, I really need to break those up a bit...a lot really :)
~René

NOTES:

And... body bags of: JFK, Peace, Oregold, Oklahoma
...just so I can remember what is where
clipped on: 03.02.2014 at 09:23 am    last updated on: 03.02.2014 at 09:24 am

RE: OK Enablers. I need a smaller yellow than Mrs Dudley Cross. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: seil on 01.31.2014 at 07:57 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Not really an OGR but I really love my Golden Wings. Let's call it a mid-century classic, lol!

NOTES:

A beauty- need to look up info
clipped on: 02.02.2014 at 08:29 am    last updated on: 02.02.2014 at 08:30 am

RE: Your MOST Perfect Rose (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: TNY78 on 06.21.2012 at 10:21 pm in Antique Roses Forum

Well, the ones that jump out to me are the ones that have a nice growth habit, disease and insect resistant, and blooms that are just outstanding! There's 4 that are real standouts...

R Rugosa Alba
Boule de Neige
Belinda's Dream
Jeremiah Pink (which is thought to be the same rose as Banshee)

Tammy

NOTES:

Roses that do well in my area!
clipped on: 02.01.2014 at 03:27 pm    last updated on: 02.01.2014 at 03:27 pm

RE: Unlurking: Bareroot Rose ( Zone 10) question (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: roseseek on 11.16.2013 at 10:27 am in Roses Forum

Bare roots can vary greatly in how well they have been stored. They must not be permitted to dry out, or they can very easily fail. Part of that issue belongs to the producer, part on how well they are packaged for shipping and part belongs to the person planting them. I have dealt with retail bare roots for more than three decades in the Los Angeles/San Fernando Valley/ Santa Clarita Valley areas. It's difficult to find climates much more arid than many of these can be.

What I have witnessed repeatedly has been people planting the bare roots in "good sun" without any thought given to keeping them properly hydrated until they are established. "Sprinklers", even attention with the hose, are often not sufficient when the sun is brilliant; the wind and aridity are strong; and temps can jump thirty to fifty degrees in just a few hours.

Bare root packages used to have instructions for mounding newly planted bare roots under soil printed right on them. They may still, I don't know as I've not looked at them in a while as I've not been in the market for any new budded roses.

If you live where temps remain lower, there is high humidity and it actually RAINS with any regularity, mounding is not as vital as it is where none of those assists can be relied upon. Here, mounding can make all the difference. Warm sun stimulates the plant to produce leaf, cane and flower growth. As long as there are ROOTS, not just those received attached to the plant but actual feeder roots, required to replenish the water and nutrients the plant is trying to use to grow, that's fine. But, when there are no feeder roots, the plant is going to attempt to grow instead of generating its "digestive tract", the feeder root system, utilizing the stored reserves it has to produce the feeder roots to push new leaves and flowers instead. Most often, they collapse.

Keeping the plant cool, dark and damp, the conditions usually found under ground where the plant is stimulated to produce the roots, encourages root formation instead of leaf, cane and bloom production. There are a number of different methods of mounding after planting, including methods of mounding in cans, but these few examples linked below give you the idea.

I've mounded new bare roots after planting until leaves were being vigorously pushed from the canes here for decades and I haven't lost a bare root since. Even if you receive a terribly dried out plant from a source, as long as it is still alive, it's possible to revive it simply by burying it in damp soil to help rehydrate it. Not that I would suggest not holding a source responsible for providing badly handled material, but it IS possible to save many which are thought to be finished.

Try mounding them as shown in the links below. It should help you save your efforts. Good luck. Kim

Home Depot -

http://www.homedepot.com/c/planting_bare_root_roses_simple_steps_HT_PG_OD

ARS -

http://www.ars.org/pdfs/bare_root_to_bloom.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: AARS rose planting instructions including mounding illustration

NOTES:

Bareroot for z10
clipped on: 02.01.2014 at 06:12 am    last updated on: 02.01.2014 at 06:12 am

RE: If you were planning your first rose garden... (Follow-Up #49)

posted by: mad_gallica on 12.23.2012 at 12:47 pm in Roses Forum

Yes, that is Quadra. It is growing on a arch, with John Davis on the other side. The leftmost rose is Captain Samuel Holland, the pink blob on the right is Frontenac, and the white blob behind Quadra is a peony, Festiva Maxima. Nothing in my yard gets full, all day sun because I've got a fair number of large trees. Captain Holland probably has the most shade, and is an extremely reliable rose.

The righthand rose in the first picture is John Cabot. The main pink thing is Oelleit Flammand, a very nicely formed gallica.

Explorer Rows

Rigelcaj, your schizophrenia is showing :-) You want good, reliable roses for your climate, but you also want normal Austins. That isn't how the world works. The Austins come with a fair amount of risk. Gallicas, Albas, Spinossisimas, a fair number of Damasks and Centifolias, Explorers, and Rugosas don't have that risk. Your local library should be able to get you a copy of Suzanne Verrier's book 'Rosa Gallica'. If you pick ten roses in there just by pretty pictures, you'll probably get about 9 winners. If you do that in the Austin catalog, you'll probably get about 9 losers. Years ago, when there were rose nurseries in Maine, one of them was trialling a lot of Austins, looking for one that would thrive in a coastal zone 5. The conclusion was that isn't what they are for.

NOTES:

Resource!
clipped on: 07.23.2013 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 08:12 am

RE: If you were planning your first rose garden... (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jerijen on 12.18.2012 at 08:23 pm in Roses Forum

Make a plan for the area you want to plant out, but before you start planting, visiting a local public rose garden is an immense help. That will tell you what the roses really look like in your conditions.

I DID actually join a local rose society, when we first began planting roses in 1987. Three of them! No -- FOUR! But you know what? We spent the first few years learning what the rose societies taught -- and the subsequent years UN-learning it ... because the roses they recommended were NOT the right roses for us, or for our garden.

For one thing, we learned all about spraying. Then we learned why we didn't want to do that. THEN we had to learn which roses didn't need it. (None of the ones the rose societies recommended ended up making the cut.)

Oh, and one other thing. Books are GREAT -- but the books written by English authors turned out to be a trap for the unwary. GREAT books if you live in England. Not so great for U.S. rosarians.

Look, instead, for books written in the U.S. (Mike Shoup has a great new one out -- "THE EMPRESS OF THE GARDEN.")

Jeri

NOTES:

More texts :)
clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 07:37 am    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 07:37 am

RE: I'm back at the beginning!!!! what now?? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: poorbutroserich on 08.29.2013 at 09:53 am in Roses Forum

Girl, just chill. If you kill it you can replace it.
Now, exhale.
Get yourself a book. In the last year I have bought 10s of books on roses. Search used booksites on the web.
I think, based on your concerns, that Scanniello's book,
A Year in the Rose Garden would really rock your world. It is an amazing, broad, general reference to roses and how to care for them. It goes month by month so it shows you what you need to be doing every month. Since you are in Florida and he is in NJ that will take a bit of adjusting but he addresses your Zone as well.
It will be the best investment you make for your own knowledge and for your roses too!
Best wishes
Susan

NOTES:

Text resource
clipped on: 01.29.2014 at 07:23 am    last updated on: 01.29.2014 at 07:23 am

RE: Growing Roses from Seeds (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: trospero on 01.08.2014 at 11:32 am in Rose Propagation Forum

This should provide the basic info you need:

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing roses from seed

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.28.2014 at 02:20 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2014 at 02:20 pm

RE: Let's discuss mounding bare-root roses! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: michaelg on 11.17.2013 at 11:12 am in Roses Forum

I think if it is cloudy and damp, and cane-killing temperatures do not threaten, you are better off not mounding. You might consider spraying the canes with dormant-strength antitranspirant at a time when the material will dry promptly.

I have had good success mounding bareroots when planted in earliest spring. One thing this does is to protect new basal breaks when they emerge before it is safe. I use soil rather than mulch.

I have only planted once once in late autumn, and this experiment failed owing to warm temperatures in December. About 1/3 died over winter. These plants were mounded. Fall planting is risky in eastern US zones 5-7 owing to unpredictable temperatures and lots of rain.

Zero C will not harm any part of a rose. The hardened canes are safe down to about -11 C. The new growth cannot survive -3, so I think it is a good idea to flick off the growth buds before they die and rot.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.25.2014 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2014 at 02:57 pm

RE: how exactly to start roses from cuttings. (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: dan_keil_cr on 12.23.2013 at 04:30 pm in Rose Propagation Forum

Here is how I have been doing it for years with 95% success.
I select my cuttings from a stem that has just bloomed. I cut the blossom off and strip the bottom two leaves. The node where the leave was attached is where the roots will come out. I then take a sharp knife and cut into the stem lengthwise to the node
I use rooting hormone.
I put my cuttings directly into the ground in a shady side of the house. I use a screwdriver to poke a hole into the soil. I dip the cutting into the hormone and put it into the soil pressing the soil firmly around the cutting. I use a plastic jug or a liter pop bottle, If the bottle is clear spray paint it white. Put the jug over the top of the cutting. The cap unscrews and you can use the hose to water them. I fill the jug up once a week or so. In about 6 weeks I have a new plant. If it is in summer I will remove the lid and harden it off. That is very important! If the cuttings were done in the fall, take the lid off after frost has past. Then remove the jug in early summer.
I have a lot of very hard to get roses I got from Rose Shows! Best shopping place for cuttings!!!!
Good luck!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.25.2014 at 12:33 pm    last updated on: 01.25.2014 at 12:33 pm

RE: cost of roses (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hoovb on 01.15.2014 at 06:53 pm in Roses Forum

Heirloom - $17.50 (band)
Chamblees - $11.95 (1 gallon)
Roses Unlimited $17 - $22.50 (1 gallon)
Rogue Valley $16.95 (band)
K&M $20-$23 (1 gallon, grafted onto Fortuniana)

shipping extra

Do you have agricultural laws to follow--here many nurseries must submit to inspection and spray for certain pests before shipping their plants. Varies by location.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 01.18.2014 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 01.18.2014 at 09:51 am

How winter affects roses--dormancy etc.

posted by: michaelg on 09.07.2013 at 11:07 am in Roses Forum

There's a lot of misinformation and misunderstanding out there on this topic. Basically it derives from not getting the distinction between two basic types of roses.

1. Once-blooming roses such as gallicas, albas, and temperate-zone species: These are fully deciduous and go into deep dormancy. They respond to the shortening days of autumn by withdrawing nutrients from the leaves. The leaves turn color (bright color in some cases) and drop without being frozen. These roses need to experience some degree of dormancy in order to bloom. Only those canes that have been through a winter are able to bloom. ("Blooming on old wood.") In a temperate climate, you cannot stop them from going dormant. They will stay dormant until mid-spring. In a tropical climate, you cannot make them go dormant.

2. Typical modern repeat-blooming roses, such as hybrid teas and those shrubs that repeat freely: These derive their basic life-pattern from the species R. chinensis, which is sub-tropical. They are naturally evergreen and will happily grow and bloom all year if the climate permits. These roses do not need or want to rest, and you cannot make them rest except by withholding water, which is not good for them.

Leaves of china-derived roses do not naturally drop in fall. In severe winter climates, leaves drop after they have been killed by the cold. In zones 8-10, old leaves drop gradually in spring and early summer as new leaves replace them. If you strip healthy leaves during mild (zone 8b-10) winters, you are just wasting some of the plant's energy. (If leaves carry fungus, that's a good reason to strip.)

Obviously, china-derived roses are not strictly subtropical, but are reasonably well-adapted to winters down to around 5 degrees F. In response to a few weeks with low temperatures in the 30s and 40s, they raise the sugar content in their stems to provide antifreeze. I know of no evidence that any cultural practice can help roses prepare for winter, beyond keeping them healthy and preventing defoliation by blackspot.

Modern roses do not rest until they are bludgeoned into inactivity by cold weather (mid 20s and below) that damages the leaves and kills the soft new growth. They will stay semi-dormant as long as the average daily temperature stays below around 40 degrees. They will start growing after a couple of weeks of milder weather at any time. In zones 6-8 you may have a problem with roses growing out in winter or early spring and wasting energy on new growth that will be frozen later. But there is nothing the gardener can do about that.

With typical modern roses, soft new growth is injured at around 25-27 degrees, woody green canes at around 5-10 degrees, and old canes at around 0-5 degrees.
...........

Of course, not all roses fit into these two categories. There are once-blooming roses that are not fully deciduous and hardy, and there are hardy deciduous roses (rugosas) that give repeat bloom.

This post was edited by michaelg on Sat, Sep 7, 13 at 11:18

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.07.2013 at 12:21 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2013 at 12:21 pm

RE: question on leaf growth...Kim? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: michaelg on 08.22.2013 at 10:25 am in Roses Forum

I think it's best not to address general questions to individuals.

Susan, I do not grow any old teas. Since I've become unable to drive, I make choices based on minimizing bulk and trips to the store. Currently I use mostly high-N lawn fertilizer because my soil has adequate P and K. I use Miracle Gro or equivalent on young own-root plants.

A regime that would work in almost any conditions is 1 cup of Rose Tone or Plant Tone every 6-8 weeks until early fall (mid or late September for you). This provides everything the roses might want--appropriate NPK, trace and minors, and alfalfa. It will continue to release nutrients until the end of the growing season. Use 1-1/2 cups for very large plants.

When using only fast-release nitrogen, I would continue until early October in zone 7a. I use 1 TB of lawn fertilizer or 3 TB of 10-10-10 every 4-6 weeks, depending on rainfall and soil texture (clay retains nutrients, sand does not). 10-10-10 plus alfalfa pellets is a good low-cost program.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.24.2013 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 08.24.2013 at 08:51 am

RE: question on leaf growth...Kim? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: michaelg on 08.22.2013 at 12:50 pm in Roses Forum

Rabbit food has salt added, so you should use horse feed (plain alfalfa) instead. Roses have such shallow roots that I would not scratch any fertilizer in. Organic fertilizer is best placed under the mulch. I just scatter it within the drip line--just don't make deep piles of any fertilizer. With manufactured fertilizer, I scatter it over the mulch and water it--less than 1" of water will dissolve it. You can do this with organic fertilizer too, but it might take a year for some of the nutrients to reach the root zone, because they are not soluble.

I am currently using manufactured fertilizer because it is cheaper and easier and less bulky. There is no particular horticultural advantage. At certain times you might want to apply fast nitrogen, but there is some of that in Rose Tone and Plant Tone--not in all organic fertilizers.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.24.2013 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 08.24.2013 at 08:51 am

RE: Lava rocks in the flower bed? (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: catspa on 07.31.2013 at 11:58 pm in Roses Forum

Lola and Susan, LOL, you DO live in an alternate universe -- it's called Zone 5 -- lived and gardened there myself for 9 years, in western MA. Whatever biomass falls on the rocks/gravel there doesn't break down very quickly so it can be whisked away, leaving only small amounts to decompose, if that. The kinds of weeds (relatively benign, since exotics, especially, are not keen on Z5) are not the kind that create such problems in warmer zones like Z7 or, worse, Z9 -- in fact, I don't remember weeds being much of a problem at all in MA, conditions being so sparse. I did fight a long-term running battle with bracken fern until the voles finished it off one hard winter.

In MA, I had, essentially, gravel mulch because all of the part of the lot surrounding the house was glacial till/scree that had to be selectively replaced with soil to make a garden.

I can see lava rock without plastic or cloth underneath working for some time in cold climates, as long as there is not much disturbance of soil, because the slow decomposition of organic matter left on the surface in that climate can infiltrate through the rocks and join the soil below without overwhelming the top rock layer. A potential problem, however, might be the activity of earthworms which, as Charles Darwin noted in his last work, can pile up 0.2" of soil on the surface per year -- adds up over time. But even they, no doubt, work slower in Z5. :-)

growing_rene, a really cool Opuntia cactus native to the eastern U.S. that my mother has grown for 50+ years and I for the last 15+ is Opuntia humifusa. It is easy, floriferous, low-growing (practically a ground-cover) and has, in my opinion, the most beautiful and largest flower of all the Opuntias I have grown (many). The flower is yellow with an orange eye and is basically the 'Eyeconic Lemonade' of cacti. It wants more water than other Opuntia.

Here is a link that might be useful: Opuntia humifusa

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.01.2013 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2013 at 02:20 pm

RE: Lava rocks in the flower bed? (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: mad_gallica on 07.31.2013 at 02:27 pm in Roses Forum

Cooked roots aren't going to be a problem. That refers to places where you can fry eggs on sidewalks. The problem is going to be that organic matter is going to blow in, decompose, and produce a growing medium for the weeds *above the plastic*. The way this problem is solves with an organic mulch is that another layer is put on top. The result is rather like a layer cake with the cake being mulch and the organic debris being icing. Eventually, the bottom layer is essentially gone, so doesn't cause any problems. If you use any kind of rock, the bottom layer doesn't disappear, so the bed becomes impossibly high, and full of annoying rocks to deal with. The only solution becomes getting all the rocks out of the bed, and redoing the plastic and mulch.

If you are serious about a cactus garden, do your homework. Prickly pear is about the only thing native to the eastern US, and it requires fairly specific conditions.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.31.2013 at 03:24 pm    last updated on: 07.31.2013 at 03:24 pm

RE: 'Reverend Seidel' -- please share pics and experience (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mendocino_rose on 07.30.2013 at 06:12 pm in Antique Roses Forum

I loved the rose in the Vintage home garden. I was thrilled when it became available. Their's was about 8 feet tall and five feet wide for a while but it's been cut back and hasn't suffered from it. My band grew swiftly and is in the ground now. It has a charm that I find really attractive and that musk smell is my favorite. Mine's too small yet for a photo.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.31.2013 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 07.31.2013 at 10:31 am

RE: (Golden Celebration x Angel Face) What will result? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: roseblush1 on 07.27.2013 at 04:43 pm in Roses Forum

When I first contacted Kim about roses, he gave me a reading list of books written by several very successful breeders. My favorite author is Jack Harkness, but LeGrice is right up there.

Harkness's book Roses is a very complete and insightful study of species roses and their hybrids. You can learn a lot about what traits various species roses have brought into the rose gene pool.

LeGrice ... is incredible. If you want to learn about bloom color ... read LeGrice.

The other books were equally as important as they gave me a sense of the timeline of the development of modern roses, and studying them gave me even more information about the traits found in the rose family.

Cultural information may be "dated" and biased because both of these breeders were from England, but the knowledge they share about the botany of the plants is detailed and very much worth learning.

I read these books periodically because every time I read them, I am bringing more personal knowledge and experience with me and see the information with "new eyes".

I also made my own lineage trees by hand because HMF did not have the lineage report feature online. Even though I can go through a lineage report on HMF and understand it, I think the exercise of doing my own lineage reports and looking up the species roses and the other roses included in the lineage gave me a deeper understanding of the make up of the rose.

A seedling may look like it is a good rose, but you really won't know if it is a worthy cross until you have carried it forward for several years. A juvenile plant often performs differently in many ways than a more mature plant.

It takes time to learn how to see roses through a "breeder's eyes". You are on your way, but you have only had the opportunity to touch the surface of what it takes to breed good roses.

Also, it takes time to reach the point where you can learn from the best teacher of all things roses .... the rose.

I love your enthusiasm. You'll need it to help you to meet your goals.

Smiles,
Lyn

PS... keep in mind a lot more has been learned and written about the science of breeding good roses since these books were written.

NOTES:

Researching rose lineage
clipped on: 07.27.2013 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2013 at 05:07 pm

RE: May I have some white rose suggestions, please? (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: racin_rose on 07.21.2013 at 01:07 am in Roses Forum

I have a Kordes floribunda that's been excellent for me. It's from the "Fairytale" series and it's called Kosmos. It makes a big, frilly, old-fashioned type bloom that smells great and completely unlike any other rose I can recall. They start out tinged a flesh or blush color in the center and then fade to pure white, but last a long time.
The plant itself is extremely healthy. It's really helping turn me into a Kordes fan. It doesn't have the "wow" factor of a perfectly formed white HT like PJP2, but I would highly recommend it.

NOTES:

Beautiful
clipped on: 07.23.2013 at 07:33 am    last updated on: 07.23.2013 at 07:33 am

RE: If you were planning your first rose garden... (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: seil on 12.18.2012 at 07:54 pm in Roses Forum

I agree that you need to start slow. You really don't have to buy it all in one season and it's probably best not to because you'll find things later you'll wish you had room for.

You are absolutely correct about Austin's catalog being like crack! The roses and photos are so gorgeous you want them all. I know I do! But Mad is right about the Austins too. The descriptions in Austin's catalog are for England's climate and growing conditions not the USA's. They do not all preform as described nor do they stay the sizes listed. Check with your local rose society to find out which ones will be hardiest and healthiest for your area. Then expect them to be larger than advertised. Most of the ones I've tried have turned out to be small climbers rather than bushy shrubs.

Your season is going to be short and if you want repeat bloomers I don't recommend most OGRs because they only bloom once a season. Yes, it's usually a massive bloom for a couple of weeks but then you'll get nothing the rest of the season. I suggest shrub roses that will repeat bloom. Check out the Griffith Buck roses, most of which were bred for hardiness, that will bloom all season. Again, talk to the locals and they'll steer you in the right direction.

If you don't want to join a society (but you should, you'll enjoy it) the American Rose Society web site lists Consulting Rosarians for your district that you can contact for more specific information about roses that will work best for you.

NOTES:

Good contact tips
clipped on: 07.22.2013 at 09:42 am    last updated on: 07.22.2013 at 09:43 am

RE: ChangbingJingui osmanthus (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: snasxs on 02.20.2012 at 11:09 pm in Fragrant Plants Forum

rixianggui (Daily Fragrance) is new and very popular. They bloom 200 days a year with very strong scent.

Photobucket

Photobucket

NOTES:

Ships from China
Osmanthus fragrans(Sweet Tea Olive)Osmanthus fragrans Cv rixianggui
clipped on: 03.15.2012 at 08:33 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2012 at 09:12 pm

RE: Is Cananga fruticosa worth it? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Tony Valdes 10 (Guest) on 06.15.2011 at 10:24 am in Fragrant Plants Forum

I bought a C. Fruticosa because it is a dwarf variety (10-15 ft height) and could not have the preferred C. Odorata, which is a very large tree (50 + ft in height) in my garden. The smell of the Fruticosa is a very subtle lemony fragance, mostly felt in the calm of the morning in my area. The flowers are first green in color and will not be fragrant until they turn yellow. It also needs temperatures of 85+ F and humidity, which is no problem in South Florida, where I reside. I regularly visit a botanical garden in my area where they have a huge C. Odorata (Ylang-Ylang) tree and when it is in bloom, the fragance is much stronger and nicer than the Fruticosa I have. It fills the surrounding area with its delicious fragance but there are many more hundreds of flowers on this tree than on my dwarf variety.

I also bought a Michelia Champaca (Joy perfume) which has orange flowers and is not as "delicate" as the Michelia Alba (white). I bought it 2 years ago, and it is now about 8 ft tall. This spring, it flowered for the first time. A few scattered flowers mainly in the lower (older) branches. This fragance is definitely much nicer and stronger than the C. Fruticosa. I cannot wait until it grows more mature and gets full with flowers. This tree has a nice structure (similar to a Christmas pine) and can grow to about 25-30 ft. I planted it just outside the patio so we can enjoy the fragance from inside.

I hope this was helpful.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 03.15.2012 at 08:40 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2012 at 08:41 pm