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RE: 13 year old tomato seed germination (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: fusion_power on 02.12.2007 at 09:48 pm in Growing Tomatoes Forum

I haven't posted because you seemed to have it in hand Carolyn. I am willing to help if needed.


My suggestion would be to set aside a few of the seed to send to someone else. That way you double the chances of getting viable plants. Then you could start as many as you were comfortable with and the other person could try also.

The most important thing I've found is regulated temperature. Old seed germinate best if kept at a constant 80 degrees or just a bit below. I got good results by putting seed in an old chicken egg incubator. You can do just about as well with a bottom heat source. Here are the basic steps which Carolyn will elaborate on later:

1. pre-soak the seed in a nitrate solution. I prefer to use a dampened paper towel with a bit of miracle grow and wrap the seed overnight in the refrigerator.

2. Prepare seed mix with just the right amount of moisture. It is very important not to get too much water. The seed can rot if you do.

3. Plant the seed very shallow, no more than 1/8 inch deep.

4. Cover the seed tray with plastic but with one end open for a bit of air flow. This keeps the humidity high. Keep a close eye on them and re-moisten if the mix gets dry.

5. Be prepared to wait up to 6 weeks for a seedling!



clipped on: 01.11.2014 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2014 at 10:29 pm

RE: ?milorganite (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: garycinchicago on 06.20.2009 at 01:31 am in Lawn Care Forum

> "The pre-emergent I applied last fall, and which I was planning on applying again this fall, only contains Dimension, no fertilizer. In the spring, the product I put down I think was both a fertilizer and a crabgrass preventer combo (from the HD)."

OK, thanks for the fill in. Like i said, I feel you have the right concept, just you need a little fine tuning - a little change of thought.

This is what *I* would do on LI and basically what I do in Chicago. Your zone 6, I'm 5a .. you're just a little warmer than me .. earlier and later than me.

[Keep in mind the times are generalized, not specific. Adjust accordingly for LI. but I'm close]

Spring - April 1. PreM alone, no fertilizer. Watch forsythia. When they bloom yellow, it's time!

Allow grass to green up naturally. Every year will be different. Some years spring is earlier, some are later. Some are dry, some are wet. Mother nature knows when the time is right - leave her alone, don't bother her!

May 1, when grass is actively growing - when you actually gave it a complete hair cut, cutting every blade of grass ... go ahead and fertilize. Straight fertilizer, no step numbers. You pick which one (I'm cheap - I buy what's on sale like Scotts, Bill's, Joe's, Pete's etc - names, scnames. The main thing is nitrogen.)

June 1, 4th of July, go ahead and drop that Milorganite. The lawn will love the iron.

End of June - July 4, GrubX. Some will say don't apply unless you are sure you have grubs! I contend, don't drive unless you have insurance. Grab damage is BRUTAL. GrubX is cheap insurance.

August's step #16 / Summerguard. Skip this. What's this protect you from, mosquitoes, house flys? It's too hot to fertilize. You end up stressing the lawn forcing it to grow when conditions aren't favorable for growing (notice now how you aren't mowing twice a week like you were in spring?)Your protected from grubs - you're good to go.

Maintain irrigation throughout summer.

Labor Day - whatcha got laying around. Turf Builder? That's fine - go ahead, temperatures are dropping which means favorable growing conditions again.

PreM - now's the time to drop prevention against poa! Poa germinates when soil temps drop below 70 degrees.

So like I said - whatcha got? Use it then. Still have preM alone and fertilizer alone, then you make two drops that day. Have Dimension w/fertilizer left over? Then that's what you use on or around Labor Day.

Mid October - again, search the garage, use what you have. Did you buy the big bag of turf builder and still have some left? That's fine - USE IT! Don't fall for the marketing hype and names like "Winterizer" because that's a crock! In October, it's perfectly fine to apply a starter fertilizer too, *IF* your soil need the added phosphorous. University studies have proven that turf wants Nitrogen in fall, so it can store it as carbohydrates over winter to be used the following spring, NOT potash, which is what 'Winterizier' is full of.

Now last thing and if you truly want to walk on the dark side of lawn geektom. Once top growth has stopped, when you make that final, last cut of the year, when you cut up mostly leaves not grass - drop the secret potion, Nitrogen. This needs to be fast release nitrogen, 46-0-0 urea (cheap, $23 for 50Lbs at Lesco) Urea is very strong and can cause nitrogen burn if too warm but not now because we're talking what? Thanksgiving? It's too cool outside for that to happen.

The urea will not be used that fall but rather absorbed and then stored in the root system of the turf as carbohydrates until spring, when mother nature says "Wake up - it's time!" as noted above, LOL!!!!


try this
clipped on: 06.22.2009 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 06.22.2009 at 12:20 pm

RE: Saving Profusion Zinnia seed (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: maineman on 02.20.2007 at 02:39 pm in Seed Saving Forum

Hi all,

I have been doing a bit of research about Profusion zinnias, because I plan to grow some this year, and even try to make some crosses with them. My previous messages about Profusions were, uh, "uninformed". That's nice talk for "wrong".

The new Profusion series are tetraploids of interspecies crosses of Z. angustifolia with Z. violacea (formerly known as Z. elegans). They are produced by the Sakata Seed company. The Pinwheel series from W. Atlee Burpee Company was introduced before the Profusions, and they arose from the same sort of interspecies crosses followed by doubling their chromosomes to produce a true-breeding new species. That new species has been named Zinnia marylandica, in honor of the University of Maryland, where a lot of the original research leading up to the successful crosses was done.

Both the Pinwheels and the Profusions come true from seed because of their tetraploidy, and both are considered to be members of the new species named Zinnia marylandica. At the very minimum I plan to cross different colors of Profusions with each other, and different colors of Pinwheels with each other. And I also plan to attempt crosses of Pinwheels with Profusions. And maybe some other experimental crosses as well. Let the fun begin.



saving profusion zinnia seeds
clipped on: 04.07.2009 at 12:36 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2009 at 12:37 pm

RE: pinching out new growth (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: nckvilledudes on 03.05.2008 at 11:55 am in Clematis Forum

I have pinched out the growing tips for years now and posted some pictures last spring on how I actually do it. However, if you have a bud coming up on a low lying branch, I would do as Jeanne suggested and let it flower and then pinch the stem out. That way you get the best of both worlds. Pinching out growing tips can be done at any time of the year and at any height on the plant. It stimulates the axillary buds in the joint to break dormancy and you get two stems where you originally had one.






pinching clematis
clipped on: 04.07.2009 at 10:48 am    last updated on: 04.07.2009 at 10:49 am

Driveway Garden through the Seasons

posted by: Deanneart on 08.21.2005 at 01:45 pm in Perennials Forum

Well, I have too much time on my hands today so I've been playing with garden pics on the new computer. Anyway, I thought it would be fun to find pics from the same angle in the driveway garden and compare the seasonal changes. All of these photos are from 2005....

This first is a hoot and I didn't even remember taking it. The photograph was taken on January 24th. You can make out the lump in the middle of the photograph which is the large urn. The dried stuff to the left is the Matrona Sedum. It will be back to this all too soon. I guess I won't complain anymore about the heat this summer.

This next one is from April 6. Still lots of spring cleanup left to do here but things are beginning to green up and there are a few crocus blooming.

What a difference a few weeks make in the spring! This next photograph is from April 28th. I've finally planted some spring flowers in the urn and the grape hyacinth and daffodils are blooming. Everything is greening up and coming to life.

I couldn't believe I didn't have any photos from this angle from May but this next pic is from June 9th. Incredible! I forget how fast things grow in the springtime. The large rock that shows up in the earlier photos is completely covered up with the daylily and hakone grass foliage. The 'May Night' Salvia in the foreground was particularly gorgeous this year.

July 2 - The 'Stella d'Oro' is beautiful behind the birdbath and things are just bursting with color! Look how much the sambucus has grown behind that urn.

July 16th and the garden is really popping. The daylilies, lychnis, and coreopsis are blooming away. You can just see a bit of the 'May Night' in the lower left corner.

August 18th, that rudbeckia behind the BB is really making a statement! 'Stella d'Oro' is getting ready to do its rebloom. I've never gotten constant bloom from it as advertised but it does rebloom pretty well for me in this garden. The color goes well with that rudbeckia this time of the year. The Urn has filled in so much you can hardly see the BB anymore and I really love when that variegated Ipomoea fills in. I plant it there because the color of the vine echoes the Adjuga 'Burgundy Glow'. The aster in the foreground is getting ready to do its thing and the May Night still has a few flowers left in it. I love that plant! If you deadhead it regularly it blooms for a very long time. This year instead of just deadheading it I cut this one back almost to the ground after the first flush of flowers and it came back better than the ones I just deadheaded. I'll do the more severe pruning on this plant from now on.

So that's it so far and I'm thinking I'll take a few more pics as the garden winds down for the season. I still have anemones and re-blooming iris to come and the Matrona behind the urn is just beginning to open its fall show.



garden bed plan, also see the layout towards the end of the post.
clipped on: 04.02.2009 at 12:58 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2009 at 12:59 pm

RE: Pine Bark Fines issue (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: toucanjoe on 03.21.2009 at 08:35 pm in Container Gardening Forum

For anyone in the Philadelphia/Wilmington area.Sweeny and sons has it pine soil conditioner.

Here is a link that might be useful: sweeny and sons


around 45 mins from home. closer if on the way south.
clipped on: 03.27.2009 at 09:18 am    last updated on: 03.27.2009 at 09:19 am