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RE: Does "warm" grey paint color with blue tone exist? (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: oldbat2be on 10.17.2014 at 05:40 am in Kitchens Forum

Pretty tile, Ranton!

genb mentioned orange, which caught my attention. We have red oak floors which can be fairly orange-y, and I have two paint colors in the house which go well with the floors.

One is a pale blue, Vancouver Day (BM Aura):

The other is BM Grant Beige, a tan color which we painted in our bedroom, selected after finding recommendations online for colors which go well with the floors. Love, love, love it!

Good luck!

NOTES:

Love "Vancouver Day!"
clipped on: 10.18.2014 at 08:50 am    last updated on: 10.18.2014 at 08:51 am

Finished Kitchen

posted by: histokitch on 07.26.2010 at 11:52 am in Kitchens Forum

I guess the cobbler's kids finally have new shoes. I've learned a lot from my own kitchen clients and from this forum. Lots of fabulous design on this site.

Before:
Photobucket

After:
Photobucket

Another view:
Photobucket

Favorite detail:
Photobucket

I'll post a link to the rest of the gallery for anyone who wants to see more.

Details: The house is an 1895 Tudor Revival with a couple modern additions on it. Hopefully the kitchen bridges the two periods of construction in the house.
Cabinets: Crown Point. Farrow & Ball Shaded White paint, Sapele stained cabinetry. Banquette, open shelves, and tv cabinet by local custom cabinetmaker. Polished nickel hardware.

Counters: honed Virginia Mist granite and Carrara marble

Backsplash: Bejmat tiles in white, 2" x 6", Mosaic House. Antique glass resilvered, Olde Good Things.

Faucets: Wingnut by Sonoma Forge in Rustic Nickel.

Fridges: Subzero, Range: Wolf 48AG with grill (love)

Hood: Modernaire, custom.

Lighting: Salvage

Here is a link that might be useful: histokitch's gallery

NOTES:

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clipped on: 09.07.2014 at 05:01 pm    last updated on: 09.07.2014 at 05:01 pm

Finished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Working Farmhouse, IKEA Budget Reno

posted by: brickmanhouse on 08.19.2010 at 01:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi all,

Well, we've finally got a (mostly) finished kitchen! This kitchen's been in the planning stages for 8 years and I've been in and out of this forum for just about that long-- wow, time flies! Whether I've posted or just lurked, the information I've gotten here has been INVALUABLE.

I can unequivocally say that my kitchen would not look anything like what it does without this Forum, and for that I offer my profound gratitude-- there is, quite literally, no way I could have done it without all of you, past and present.

So, here are the photos of the finished result:

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

From 2010-0818

For the entire album with detailed photos, just click on the link below any of the photos above!

Here are the details:

Cabinetry: IKEA Lidingo White (with glass uppers) for the perimeter, Tidaholm Brown/Black for the island
Island Knobs & Pulls: Anne at Home Farm Collection and Lewis Dolin Glass Cup Pulls (from Myknobs.com)
Perimeter Knobs and Pulls: Anne at Home Horse Collection, generic polished chrome knobs, cup pulls, and bar pulls (from Myknobs.com)
Wall Paint: BM Revere Pewter
Trim, Hood, and Fireplace Paint: Valspar Bright White (from Lowe�s)
Perimeter Counters: IKEA Butcher Block, stained Black with India Ink and sealed with Waterlox
Island Counter: IKEA Butcher Block, sealed with Watco food safe butcher block sealer
Main Sink: Whitehaus 36" farm sink (from Vintagetub.com)
Island Sink: IKEA single Domsjo, undermounted instead of the usual overmount installation
Faucets: IKEA Hjuvik
Refrigerator: Because we grow a lot of what we eat (so we don't need to store much) and have a large fridge in an adjacent laundry room, we chose a generic small undercounter fridge (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Wine chiller: Sunbeam (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Dishwashers: Kenmore and Hotpoint, both existing and 5-7 years old
Microwaves: 8 year old Kenmores
Island Oven: IKEA Datid 30"
Hood: ProLine 36" range hood (from eBay)
Range: IKEA Praktfull Pro A50
Backsplash Behind Range: Handthrown Williamsburg brick (local brickyard, left over from another project)
Flooring: Lumber Liquidators, Hand Scraped Teak
Island and Sink Pendants: IKEA Ottava
Cabinet lights: IKEA Grundtal single puck lights
Chandelier over the Table: Progress lighting, black 5-light chandelier (Home Depot, off the shelf)
Fireplace: Style Selections 36" Vent Free LP fireplace (Lowe�s, off the shelf)

A few notes about the remodel, just to hit some discussion points I see come up a lot in this Forum:

Our kitchen lives in a big old 1840 farmhouse, which has been part of a working farm since the day it was built. Originally it was soybeans, but now it's part of a gentleman's farm (horses, heritage gardens and poultry), so everything has to be hard wearing and practical. It needs to stand up to heavy traffic, mud, hay, tools, and the occasional chicken (though usually when they wander in, they don't go much further than the family room, because they like the television). That definitely informed our choices for surfaces-- they needed to be hard cleanable, and ultimately easily refinished or replaced down the line.

Because the entire house already has strong architectural elements (huge moldings and built-ins), we worked within the style we already had-- all the kitchen moldings, mantels, panels and cabinets match (or are closely styled after) what already exists in the house. We definitely didn't do a period kitchen (we wanted a 2010 layout with all the conveniences), but we wanted the kitchen to look like it belonged in the house.

The big thing for us was budget-- believe it or not, the entire kitchen was done for UNDER $20K. Four big things contributed to that:

1/ We DIY'ed the ENTIRE project, start to finish. The only thing we hired out was the gas line install for the fireplace and range, because state law requires it. Other than that, all planning, demo, sourcing, and construction was on us. Might be why it took us 8 years. . .

2/ We reused what we could, and scrounged a lot, especially construction materials (which could have been buckets of money, considering all the custom work we did in the space), and kept what appliances we could. It was also a great way to be environmentally responsible on a project that, let's face it, has a lot of non-necessities involved.

3/ IKEA, IKEA, IKEA. If you're anywhere reasonably close to an IKEA, and you're on anything approaching a budget, go check it out. The cabinet quality for the price can't be beat (except for a few pockets of custom cabinet makers), and there are a lot of great accessories, appliances, lighting and other things to be had for a terrific price. As always, you have to pick and choose your items for quality and value, but at least in our experience, it is definitely there to be had for the buyer with a good eye.

4/ We didn't go for major appliance upgrades. Our whole family LOVES to cook (and eat!), and we wanted a great looking, functional space to do it all in, but we just weren't convinced that we needed more than the basics right now. If we want to upgrade down the line, it's easy enough to do, but right now our Wolf budget is standing in our barn eating hay, and our LaCanche budget is steered towards this Show Hunter prospect I have my eye on . . .

So there's our formula for a great kitchen that works for us considering the (kind of odd!) parameters we had. Hope you all can take at least something useful away from our experience.

I've submitted the kitchen to the FKB, and I'll answer whatever questions you've got. . .

Thanks again, everyone!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.16.2014 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 08.16.2014 at 10:19 am

RE: butcherblock vs granite (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: CEFreeman on 06.15.2014 at 02:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

bbtrix, that countertop is fabulous!!!! Just beautiful.

sweat-tea, I got 10-12' sticks, roughly 1.5 - 2" from a reuse center. I think they were actually part of some kind of laminate beams at some point, because one side of them looks like it has glue on them. So, that side went to the bottom. And I think I paid about $2 - $3 for each stick.

I think I've decided to put General Finishes dead flat matte varnish on them. I won't be cutting on them, so mold or mildew in a broken finish won't be an issue. Plus, I have a lot of wood going on, so something "raw" would give the eye a break. I think I've decided! :)

Here's a the long countertop at row 10. I think they're 12 sticks deep:

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.15.2014 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 08.15.2014 at 12:54 pm

Finished White Kitchen Mini Reveal

posted by: WMA89 on 08.08.2014 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

This forum was invaluable when we we designing and overseeing the build of our kitchen remodel. I learned so much about what makes a kitchen not only work aesthetically, but functionally as well. I love, love this new kitchen. There is a designated place for everything, which makes keeping it organized so much easier. We finished the kitchen about six months ago. The remodel turned into a bit of a nightmare and took 15 months. I've been so busy getting settled back into the house that I've neglected posting the final results.

This kitchen remodel was part of a fairly major remodel of the living areas of a late 60s brick ranch we purchased two years ago. The original kitchen was tiny, as you can see in the photos. We took down the wall between the kitchen and small family room. We also pushed a couple feet into an oversized foyer, as well as a foot into the existing dining room in order to make more space for the kitchen. The ceiling was already vaulted in the family room, but we extended this into the kitchen during the remodel. If I were to pick my two favorite things about this kitchen it would be the Corian Sea Salt countertops and the Franke Orca sink. I love, love these countertops. These are a maintenance breeze, and I love the way they feel. Many people, including my builder, were skeptical when I said I wanted Corian but were blown away with the results. I also really like having all the drawers for dishes, as well as the small drawers in the glass hutch where I store flatware. Makes unloading the dishwasher so easy! Here are some basic details:

Cabinets: Custom
Cabinet Paint: BM Simply White
Counters: Corian Sea Salt
Island top: Mahogany with dark walnut stain
Sink: Franke Orca
Fridge: Sub zero
Rangetop: Wolf
Wall oven: KitchenAid
Hood: Superior
Floors: Oak, stained with dark walnut/provincial mix

Thanks so much to everyone on the Kitchen Forum who answered my questions and shared ideas. I owe you all!
Before:
 photo oldkitchen1_zpsabd2972a.jpg
 photo oldkitchen2_zps06cd1e97.jpg
After: photo fullshotkitchen_zps399bdebb.jpg
 photo bakingcenter_zps14c84118.jpg
 photo cooktopwallclose_zps6131a4a2.jpg photo hutchkitchen_zps3abf0180.jpg photo islandclose_zpse00fe6f1.jpg photo fridgewall_zpsb4b0defc.jpg photo countertopclose_zps703f740f.jpg

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.08.2014 at 06:11 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2014 at 06:12 pm

RE: How did you make your island look like furniture? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: sayde on 08.07.2014 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Our island actually is a piece of furniture -- relatively small, no electricity or water, moveable (not anchored into the tile)

NOTES:

love sayde's kitchen!
clipped on: 08.07.2014 at 09:36 am    last updated on: 08.07.2014 at 09:37 am

7-Week Kitchen Remodel Revealed

posted by: dgormish on 08.01.2014 at 11:42 am in Kitchens Forum

My kitchen remodel is complete! Thanks to everyone who responded to my inquiries and all of you who just participate on this board. I learned so much for hear others opinions and experiences!

The remodel began with interviewing contractors in the fall. We signed a contract in January. We agreed to use a custom cabinetmaker because of some of the strange configurations in our kitchen. We had seen his work and knew it was good. We also knew he was slow and had several projects in the works. So, we didn�t start the tear down until the cabinetmaker was close to done. The time from the tear down to the last day the contractor worked here was 8 weeks. One week we were on vacation so the work itself took 7 weeks. I did a LOT of grilling during that time!

I don't know how to attach multiple photos but you can go here and see them and more details:

http://www.gormish.org/denise/kitchen-remodel/

Denise

This post was edited by dgormish on Fri, Aug 1, 14 at 11:45

NOTES:

Love this tile!
clipped on: 08.02.2014 at 08:08 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2014 at 08:31 am

1930 Spanish kitchen...98% complete! Photos.

posted by: yesdear on 08.23.2008 at 04:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi GWers, DW and I have marveled at the beautiful work others have shown here. We were very grateful for the nice comments on our preview photo posted a couple of weeks ago.

And now...the range went in yesterday with the help of 5 burly guys and suddenly we are 98% done. Only some touch-up painting and installation of the DW panel, spice cab door and glass for the glass-front cabinet left to go.

When we are at 100% I'll post a gallery including "before" (yuk) and in-progress. I'll also include the new laundry area, at the extreme far end of these photos. For now, see below for shots of the kitchen. We made a few concessions to modernity, e.g., sacrificing the butler's pantry for 5 more feet of galley length and opening up the arch in the foreground--it used to be a narrow mahogany swinging door. Yet we wanted a kitchen worthy of our grand old Spanish Colonial Revival home. We think she is happy! Details at the very bottom.

P1020654

P1020657

P1020656

P1020663

P1020659

P1020673

Range - CornuFe in basic black.

Frig - Liebherr 60" built-in.

DW - Miele Optima with panel front. Panel is still at the paint shop.

Cabinets - locally made face-frame of birch with inset panel & bead detail on doors, melamine interiors, Blumotion hinges and all the internal bells & whistles.

Countertops - Brazilian Black soapstone, not oiled yet, with radiused corners and eased edge. Runnels by the sink. Mahogany top on the beadboard hutch.

Sinks - Rohl Shaws original 30" apron and 15" undermount prep with ISE Evolution disposers.

Faucets - Kohler Vinnata (K-690, K-691)in brushed nickel.

Cab hardware - "Duluth" 6" pulls and 1.25" knobs in brushed nickel from Restoration Hardware.

Appliance pulls - Top Knobs 12" pulls in BN. The DW will have one mounted horizontally--also serves as towel rack!

Floors - Original 1930 tongue-in-groove fir, sanded, repaired and refinished after removing 2 layers of linoleum.

Windows - Custom arched 3-lite pull casement, based on a ~1930 design I saw in the neighborhood.

Lighting - Schoolhouse Electric, all fluorescent GU24 except the pendants (too small for GU24 bulbs). Different ceiling mounts in kitchen, pantry and laundry.

Hood - Best PIK 45 with custom arched drywall enclosure and remote switch.

Tile Mural - our little secret! (JK, it's from Tierra y Fuego in San Diego.)

Backsplash - custom 2.5 x 5" Chardonnay color handmade subway by Ken Mason.

Paint - all BM, Country Lane green accent, Ivory White wall base color, Lemon Chiffon on cabs and trim.

Our CKD is Dana Jones, "The Kitchen Consultant," in Long Beach, CA. Our vision + Dana's creativity and attention to detail (this is Version 7 of the plan!) + our GC Bob Kaplan's superb and flexible execution = a nice result. We are well over time but pretty darn close to budget. We learned a LOT here. Hope you like it!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.02.2014 at 09:29 am    last updated on: 08.02.2014 at 09:29 am

Kitchen reveal, a bit belated

posted by: mtnrdredux on 08.01.2014 at 02:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay, so I think, I am pretty sure, I never did my kitchen reveal. At least I don't think I did? And it has been done for 3 years. I was looking thru photobucket for other photos and decided, hey, better late than never.

Our kitchen was quite unusual to start with. Very long and narrow. Everything behind panelled walls that you had to open and slide back to get to counters, cabs, etc. If memory serves, a 17' long island. Some things I did like, such as original windows looking into the dining room. Thw biggest issue was flow. In the bottom right is a doorknob to a half bath! The finishes would not have been my choice, but they were nice.

BEFORE:
 photo PC050282_zps57b44ed2.jpg

We gutted it and made it very "porous". There is an opening to the hall, an opening to the breakfast room, doors and a step down to the DR, and openings on either side of the stove wall to the family room. The flow is much better.

Here is the floorplan, followed by photos

 photo Entirefloorplan-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1_zps898b437c.jpg

Long view as you enter:
 photo photo88_zpsa99127d1.jpg

A few favorite shots (more in the link)
 photo 7b52cf01_zps9b8c28dc.jpg

 photo 68761c36.jpg
 photo photo87_zps0c2d14b1.jpg

Materials used:
1 Custom cabs with sliding glass doors, Palladian blue washed beadboard backs
2 Subzero with custom tiger oak skin and icebox hardware
3 Lacanche stove with stone b/s to match FR fpl on reverse side
4 Hand hewn cherry countertops
5 Dolomya marble island top
6 FP dish drawers
7 Herbeau faucets (2)
8 Il Fanale lighting
9 Swedish antique breakfast table and bench
10 Island 1; zinc topped french pastry table, or so they claim
11. Island two; custom copy of old general store counter
12 subzero freezer drawers in pantry
13 garden faucet for pasta faucet
14 Pewter countertops at glass cabs
15 Benheim antique glass; very slight waviness
16 Carlisle random width wide plank eastern white pine finished in tung oil

PS sorry, the links broke while i was fiddling with the album but they still showed up on my screen

Here is a link that might be useful: Password is the site you are on

This post was edited by mtnrdredux on Fri, Aug 1, 14 at 14:46

NOTES:

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clipped on: 08.01.2014 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 08.01.2014 at 03:14 pm

RE: Dark Numerar Countertop from IKEA (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: reshal on 08.11.2009 at 12:10 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thank you again for the compliments! I just checked the can and the stain is by ML Campbell, Woodsong II. The stain is oil based. The color is a custom mix my cabinet maker and I came up with for my cabinets. It's basically cherry stain with a lot of brown mixed in, which we now call "Browner Cherry" because I kept asking him to add more brown.

My husband is an experienced wood worker and a great finish carpenter, but doesn't do it for a living. He told me he used a 1/2" round over bit on the first pass on the edge and then an Ogee router bit for the second pass. I can get the model number of the bits if anyone needs them after he gets home from work. The sink hole was harder and took some time to get right.
To finish the countertops I first sealed them with Benite. Then I applied two coats of stain, the first with a brush that turned out all blotchy and then I flooded the surface with stain and hand wiped with a rag. I attempted to "streak" the surface so the wood would look more like the higher end wood countertops I've seen. I sort of faux finished them, I guess.

Then I did three coats of Waterlox original with a foam brush. They looked amazing, just way too shiny for my taste. I lightly sanded in between coats.

Then the nightmare began. I did a coat of Waterlox Satin with a foam brush. The countertop was splotchy and there were bumps in it. I posted on GW about my troubles. I finally got the surface right after another two coats of Satin, another coat of Original and then a two more coats of Satin. The final two coats were applied with a lambswood applicator. So there are a grand total of 10 coats of Waterlox on the counters. They feel great and don't look plastic-y close up.

Here are some photos of the sink hole (before and after) and another photo of the countertop that is installed.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

As for seams, each countertop is 6 feet long which a stock size Numerar, so there aren't any seams. I have these countertops for my laundry room also that form an "L". I'm not sure how my husband will handle the seam in there, probably biscuit join and glue them so the seam will be tight.

Thanks again for the nice responses!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 07.21.2014 at 10:21 pm    last updated on: 07.21.2014 at 10:25 pm

my beloved appliance garage

posted by: huango on 07.18.2014 at 10:55 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hola,
I've been wanting to share my beloved appliance garage set-up for a long time.
It works for me/my family SO well.
Hopefully it can help others.

So I have a G-shaped kitchen, with a long wall of windows/base cabinets between my fridge/WO wall and my induction cooktop/hood wall.

My layout after many many iterations/tweaking:

My wall of windows/base cabinets (Sorry for the bad cellphone pix):

Now you don't see it:
(see the 2 figures on the fridge made out of magnets? :)
Fridge, Advantium over wall oven


Now you do:


Love my beloved Vitamix, toaster, and electric can opener - all plugged in/ready to go:


Never having to lift my KitchenAid mixer from a base cabinet up again!
I designed it so that the mixer can even be UP, without hitting the door.
Yup, got this appliance tool (to swing the door up) from Ikea also.
Yes, I stand on a little step stool when using the mixer (I'm 4'11"). DH doesn't have to.


I never use both levels at the same time like this:

A closer look CLOSED:


Yes, that's how I keep my counters cleared.
I even have a pullout for my knife block.

Any questions?
Thanks for looking.

Amanda

NOTES:

Big kitchen, but excellent use of appliance garage1
clipped on: 07.19.2014 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 07.19.2014 at 11:08 am

RE: Do blue and white cabinets work in this laundry room (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: nosoccermom on 03.29.2014 at 05:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

That's what most people do (lowers dark, uppers ligh). tHowever, this advice is contrary to today's painting the wainscoting white and a color above. Used to be the other way around, too.
There are quite a few European kitchens that have the lighter color on the bottom.

On the other hand, if you like blue/gray, I think it would be very nice with white appliances.








NOTES:

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clipped on: 06.02.2014 at 10:11 pm    last updated on: 06.02.2014 at 10:12 pm

RE: My half-baked kitchen (cross post) (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: mtnrdredux on 03.31.2014 at 11:20 am in Kitchens Forum

I have vacillated far more than usual because I have moved out of my normal "50 Shades of White" approach to decor!

Which is a nice segue for my decision. I have decided that what will work best for me personally, look most vintage and unfitted, and work in a somewhat dark room, is to use a mix of neutrals on the sink wall, with a navy and white sink skirt (TBD), and pick up the turq only in the back wall of the hutch and maybe dishtowels, vase, etc.

I am using two different neutrals for the custom wood pieces (the d/w front and table), cream and grey.

Here are the colors:
 photo Screenshot2014-03-31at93218AM_zpsf7a724d4.png

Here is the new mockup:
 photo Screenshot2014-03-31at105204AM_zps9b65a82d.png

Of course, i may tweak the exact shades when I am there in person, but at least now I have a road map.

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 10:25 pm    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 10:25 pm

kitchen reveal - completed staged kitchen - photo heavy

posted by: magsnj on 04.05.2014 at 08:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

First, I'd like to apologize if you had to click into this and you've seen it already. I posted it before it was finished or staged for pretty pics and while I was asking for backsplash advice. So here it is completed and staged (as for staging, it's pretty much how I live except I have a lot more storage than I have things for now, so I had to put in fillers......I don't normally have a toy truck in my pantry or keep dominoes sugar or Morton salt out in the open, but since I think the packaging is pretty, I put it out). I'm including a link to the original post which contains kitchen details. Thanks for indulging me!

 photo DSC_0083_zps5ee33267.jpg

View from backdoor:
 photo DSC_0067_zps2cf6eebb.jpg

View from pantry
 photo DSC_0100_zpsbd4546df.jpg

 photo DSC_0113_zps1b1545e3.jpg

 photo DSC_0096_zps08de9ecb.jpg

Not crazy about Super Susan.... storage feels awkward:
 photo DSC_0083_zpsab9638b1.jpg

I love my simplex teakettle... it whistles :)
 photo DSC_0130_zpscafa6192.jpg

Don't judge me for storing supermarket bags :). Good storage for cutting boards and cookie trays.
 photo DSC_0080_zps8a8af245.jpg

I use everything on the open shelves above the range often
 photo DSC_0076_zpse8bd2da8.jpg

 photo DSC_0125_zps7c887513.jpg

The sink that started it all.... my workhorse that spares my marble counters:
 photo DSC_0074_zpsa0a2eacb.jpg

 photo DSC_0124_zps1acd4026.jpg

 photo DSC_0004_zps1018c6fc.jpg

 photo DSC_0024_zps01786974.jpg

Pantry
 photo DSC_0025_zpsf68e7f75.jpg

 photo DSC_0040_zpsa991a5aa.jpg

Dishwasher
 photo DSC_0076_zpsaa695ae6.jpg

 photo DSC_0084_zpsf19924c2.jpg

 photo DSC_0042_zps800a0370.jpg

 photo DSC_0037_zpsc892bd68.jpg

 photo DSC_0091_zps72753add.jpg

 photo DSC_0092_zpsf1e8b9a1.jpg

 photo DSC_0043_zps18f0cfae.jpg

 photo DSC_0047_zps97c78e1d.jpg

Backdoor
 photo DSC_0035_zps69ca96ca.jpg

 photo DSC_0129_zps6e9ff50d.jpg

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Details

NOTES:

Heaven...
clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 08:30 am    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 08:31 am

RE: Where are all the non-white kitchens? (Follow-Up #62)

posted by: Ott2 on 05.27.2014 at 03:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am in Texas, and I don't think I've ever seen a white kithen in real life in Texas! No reveal yet, and still getting settled in, but here is my non-white kitchen.

NOTES:

Absolutely amazing kitchen!
clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 08:26 am    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 08:26 am

Small things that get forgotten

posted by: Laura12 on 04.11.2012 at 06:01 pm in Building a Home Forum

I keep hearing that most people find that there are small things that they didn't think about until after they finished construction that they wish they would have added into their build, and I was curious if all of you would like to help me to compile a list for all of us to consider during planning!

So far I have
- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
- Solar tubes in areas that don't get natural sunlight
- Prewire security system
- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
- Central Vac with vac pans

Any others to add?

NOTES:

Great thread!
clipped on: 05.28.2014 at 08:23 am    last updated on: 05.28.2014 at 08:24 am

RE: Which option is best? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: nyrgirl35 on 05.04.2014 at 09:35 am in Kitchens Forum

Or what about leaving it the way it is but changing the 39" cabinet for 36" drawers (what can be done with 3" of space?)
I'm not sure about the look of all those drawers together though? This coming from someone who never had base drawers before, other then the top drawer!

NOTES:

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clipped on: 05.05.2014 at 12:25 am    last updated on: 05.05.2014 at 12:25 am

RE: Banana Peels. Use or Toss? (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: Hawkeye_Belle on 09.16.2002 at 09:24 am in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Sorry I left out some vital information with the banana tonic. Yes you can freeze banana, peel and all. If it makes you feel better put them in a plastic bag.
When I have collected enough bananas, I place one banana, peel, too, minus the hard tip ends in the blender. (You can slice the banana easily if it is frozen). Put in enough water to cover the banana and liquify. Pour this mixture into a gallon container. (Milk containers are great, but you must use a funnel). Fill the container with water and pour this mixture on the rose at the crown and around the drip line. One banana per rose, one gallon of the tonic per plant. Simple.

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clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 02:34 pm

RE: Alfa Alfa tea recipe for roses (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: cavallo on 06.19.2007 at 01:01 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

There are many variations out there. I use the following (converted from English to SI units for your convenience);

75l water
2l alfalfa meal (the powdery stuff)
60ml epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)
15ml copperas (iron sulfate)
30ml miracle grow

All measures are by volume, and are very approximate. I'm sure the miracle grow isn't organic, but note that the proportion is about 1/10th the recommended rate of application, so I doubt it will appreciably harm the soil.

All I do is add the dry ingredients to a large plastic tub, fill it with water, and let it rot for a week. If I want it more aerobic, I'll stir it once every morning, and it doesn't stink as horribly when the week is up. As the season progresses, I drop the iron and magnesium.

After using the stinky liquid, I reuse the settled muck to make another, weaker batch for the following week. After that batch is spent, I pour the slurry into the small bed with my miniatures, rake it in, and start a new batch. In this way, there is always a tub of the stuff cooking in the back yard, every plant gets a gallon of the full-strength liquid once every two weeks, and nothing is wasted.

The results have been excellent.

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clipped on: 04.26.2008 at 02:18 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2008 at 02:19 pm