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RE: weatherstripping on double wood entry doors (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: millworkman on 01.02.2015 at 04:08 pm in Home Repair Forum

Missing what they call "Schlegel Pads"

Here is a link that might be useful: Schlegel Pads


door weatherstripping:
clipped on: 01.05.2015 at 08:49 am    last updated on: 01.05.2015 at 08:50 am

RE: Drywall Repair (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: Trebruchet on 12.28.2014 at 07:32 am in Paint Forum

When I read Faron's comment, I wondered if Big Stretch is paintable. It is:

Here is a link that might be useful: Big Stretch


Big Stretch caulk
clipped on: 01.04.2015 at 10:37 am    last updated on: 01.04.2015 at 10:38 am

Using Existing Old House Roller Shade Hardware

posted by: marita40 on 10.10.2014 at 08:07 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Faced with the daunting task of installing window treatments on all 18 windows of the 1915 Craftsman home I just moved into, I realized that every window has very old but perfectly operational roller shade hardware already installed. Lightbulb moment--why not use it?

My no-doubt stupid question is: will only roller shades fit into this hardware? I'd really like something more decorative in some rooms. What about roman shades? Any other ideas on what will work with this existing hardware?


flat-head slotted brass screws and cup washers.
clipped on: 10.11.2014 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2014 at 08:55 pm

Corner Cabinet Space Calculations and Analysis

posted by: davidahn on 02.20.2013 at 02:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is an attempt at putting some numbers to the age-old question: what do I do with this darned corner?!? I have answered this question for myself, but thought my analysis might be helpful to others pondering this same question.

- Tried to standardize on a 24D x 48W blind cabinet
- Lazy susan & corner drawers required 36 x 36 corner cabinet
Total usable space is calculated based on the interior space of the drawer/pullout
Usable space given is PER TIER and calculated based on the footprint of the box
Multiply usable space by number of tiers/drawers for total storage area
Drawers and pullouts are 22” deep minus 5/8” drawer front/back
Drawer widths are box width minus 3/4” box sides, 1/2” drawer slide clearances, and 5/8” drawer sides
- Your cabinet builder’s specs may vary slightly from my numbers

Corner Cabinet Studies

Shelves & Non Corner Drawers
Plain shelves (not shown) maximize space use (88% of footprint due to plywood box sides and back) but minimize accessibility. The gold standard is drawers (see 'Non Corner'), balancing space utilization and accessibility (only 73% of footprint due to hardware and clearances), but obviously, two drawer stacks are NOT an option for a corner. Space efficiency should be compared to the drawer 'gold standard' rather than plain shelves which are a terrible idea for any deep cabinet, especially corner cabinets!

Corner Drawer
The corner drawer solution (53% of footprint, 73% of non-corner drawers) does have LARGE dead dead space in both corners, and awkward angles all over the drawers. The pluses are: you can store a lot of stuff by having 4 drawers (2728 sq in), and you can have access to ALL of your stuff. 4 corner drawers offer 81% of two 24W drawer stacks, but takes up 12.5% more floor space.

Super Susan
The super susan (60% of footprint, 82% of non-corner drawers). It’s impractical to do more than 2 tiers, and it lacks a certain sex appeal, and stuff can fall off and get lost in the dead space areas. There’s a maximized version of the Super Susan called the Korner King, which looks like it stores a LOT of crap, but it looks like a Frankenstein’s cabinet, an esthetic purist’s nightmare. For those not offended by its looks, functionally it has a lot of broken up pieces of storage of which only about 10-40% of your stuff is accessible at a time.

Custom Corner
My 'custom corner' (narrow pullout, wide side slide), my choice, has the same usable space as drawers per tier (73% of footprint), but a lot less accessibility due to the limitations the corner imposes. I chose it because while we have lots of storage space, I still wasn’t ready to seal off the corner. The large sideways slideout is perfect for items like our 60 and 100 qt pots that wouldn’t fit in drawers anyway (we occasionally cook for LARGE groups). The main pullout would have 3 tiers for more often-accessed items, for a total of 1494 sq in (514 s.i. x 1 full height slideout for big pots, 327 s.i. x 3 for front pullout), a decent amount of storage including a very large, full height side-slide. 2 L + 3 S tiers would give 2009 s.i.

Dead Corner
The simplest corner solution, the 'dead corner,' only gives 29% of the footprint in storage, or 40% of the storage of 48' of non-corner drawers. But if you use a 4-drawer stack, you get a lot of functional storage - 1348 sq in, though no room for tall/large items.

Magic Corner
Hafele’s Magic Corner offers that WOW factor when you see it gleaming and gliding in and out with soft-close. But it’s only 536 s.i. per tier (49% of footprint, 67% of non-corner drawers), 1072 total s.i. It could store more, but it’s designed to fit in more applications (21D cabinets, narrower cabinets), and therefore has a lot of dead space.

- Unlike straight base cabinets where there’s clear consensus that drawers are best, corners are ALL about limitations and compromise (and debate, with everyone having their own favorite corner solution that fits their needs)
- Drawers offer the greatest accessibility, and by using 3 or 4 drawers, you quickly make up for less space efficiency over 2-tier solutions. For example, even though the dead corner only offers 29% of the footprint of storage per tier, multiply that by 4 drawers = 1348 sq in, more than the Magic Corner’s 1072 s.i. and almost as much as the Super Susan’s 1550 s.i. with 144 s.i. smaller footprint. Despite the large dead spaces, the Corner Drawer offers a LOT of potential storage, up to 2728 s.i. with 4 drawers, though losing large item capability.
As impressive as the 'Magic Corner' solutions are to demo (I too “ooooh”ed at first), they are extremely costly (about $900 and up after hardware and baskets) and optimized to fit in shallower cabinets so have more dead space than other solutions.
My custom corner maximizes total use of the footprint area and also maximizes large and bulky item storage with relatively limited access to the inside corner area, while minimizing cost.
- As with marriage, there is no perfect match, only great or poor fits for your needs. If you’re unhappy with your corner solution, either ignore the limitations or find a better solution. Just don’t expect perfection!

Here is a link that might be useful: Korner King - not for me, might be right for you?


clipped on: 10.07.2014 at 09:57 am    last updated on: 10.07.2014 at 09:57 am

RE: Quarter round moulding behind bed? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: justgotabme on 05.22.2014 at 04:19 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

The difference between shoe mold and quarter round is that the former is a bit taller, but not as thick as the latter.
That being said, whichever your contractor is using, I've seen both used for this purpose, you can notch the back of the headboard legs to fit around the base and the shoe mold/quarter round when you get a headboard.


Quarterround vs shoe mold
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 08:56 am

RE: Quarter round moulding behind bed? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: dedtired on 05.22.2014 at 04:14 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Okay, base shoe it is. I learn a lot here, although when you think about it, quarter round is a more accurate description, at least IMHO. I guess you can flip a coin over the correct spelling of mould/mold. Actually, shoe mold sounds kind of gross, like what grew inside my sons' sneakers when they were kids.

Yes, I will get it all the way around. The piece I am missing is the one in the bottom right of this sketch.

Here is a link that might be useful: base shoe


Quarterround vs shoe mold
clipped on: 05.23.2014 at 08:56 am    last updated on: 05.23.2014 at 08:56 am

RE: Down Comforter (Follow-Up #32)

posted by: sharo on 04.08.2014 at 11:16 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Make sure that you look at company store sizing. Their sizes are is larger than typical, (which I like). Also, there is wny_liqidators on eBay whichs sells new (and like new/ returned) company store items.


clipped on: 04.09.2014 at 09:20 am    last updated on: 04.09.2014 at 09:20 am

RE: Let's Hear Your Best Organizing Solutions! (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: williamsem on 01.09.2014 at 10:06 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

For anyone planning to add pegboard in a closet, let me share what I learned. It didnt seem too hard, so I just decided to go for it and I learned some things the hard way.

-to get the space needed behind for the pegs, use pieces of firing strip. I thought I'd be smart and just put a whole piece down each side, then the reality of how not straight they were set in, and I later realized you will want to use some of those holes too. Cut a piece to go accross the top and bottom, and then 4 to 6 smaller, 4 in or so pieces to put along each side.

-plan on putting the factory edge along the back wall, where it will be seen. Nobody will see the edge you cut if it's along the front unless they step inside and look back.

-measure the depth of your closet on each side, and at several locations. If you have a small closet, like mine, and have only about an inch of wall space before the trim, measure to the edge of the trim instead of the wall. You will almost surely not be able to slip the firing strip and pegboard between the wall and trim all the way down unless you have about an inch and a half to work with. Plus the trigonometry of getting the pegboard in place with that little room for wiggle works against you. Don't ask how I know.

-try your best to attach the firing strip to the studs around the frame of your closet wall. That way, if a few of the screws you use to attach the pegboard don't make it in the studs, you will still have enough support.

-get the right circular saw blade. I used a regular wood blade for the firing strip, but changed for the pegboard. I think I might have used a plywood blade, whichever one was for smooth cuts on stuff that's not solid wood. Just read the little chart at the hardware store.

It's really not a hard project if you can use a circular saw and drill (and measuring tape!). My problem was I thought I'd just screw up firing strips all along the edges, cut the pegboard, slide it into place between the trim and wall (I had 1.25 in, should fit perfect!), and put in a bunch of screws to hold it up. Um, no. If I had planned for reality better, I could have been done in less than half the time.


Pegboard in closet
clipped on: 01.09.2014 at 10:27 am    last updated on: 01.09.2014 at 10:27 am

Wall liner for problem walls

posted by: karinl on 03.29.2013 at 03:48 pm in Old House Forum

I have mentioned on another thread that I recently discovered using wall liner paper on a lumpy beadboard/TiG wall that I have been looking at with hatred in my heart for nearly 20 years. I am not normally a person who covers problems, but sometimes there is no alternative, in either the short or the long term.

The liner paper that I was using was by Blonder "TBC 5002 Prepasted Heavy Duty Wall-Liner" and I was thrilled with it. It is so firm and stiff that it smooths out lumps nicely and it was a piece of cake to work with. It has a translucent look that is bearable, even attractive, even before you do any painting or wallpapering over it.

I had only mail-ordered one roll from a mail order source that has, I think, since been sold to a larger company, and since mailordering to Canada is a pain, I thought I would check around locally for liner paper. None of the paint/wallpaper stores carried it, but I found some at Home Depot. This was "Graham Brown Wall Liner and Ceiling Paper."

This latter product I found to be far inferior. It is not stiff and follows the lumps and valleys rather than smoothing them over.

The Blonder paper is so stiff it gets creases in it when you roll it backward to cycle it through the water in the tray, but these are not a problem long term. Also, it DOES require priming before wallpaper edges will stick down on top of it.

So, I highly recommend the Blonder product; but not just any liner paper. I am hoping desperately that they still make this product as I launch my search for a second roll!

Karin L


Wall liner paper
clipped on: 03.30.2013 at 09:06 am    last updated on: 03.30.2013 at 09:07 am

RE: More painted fabric! Tufted headboard and ideas/help? (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: jterrilynn on 12.10.2012 at 06:22 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Hi Gray, yes, for example I had a set of upholstered armed dining chairs with a print that had some color in it I did not like. So, I just painted over that color. It's monotonous work! However, six armchairs with front and back upper and lower upholstery would have cost me a bundle if I wanted to have them re-done. If you do it right and use good textile paint no one can tell.
With the Jacquard brand you can use it on natural or synthetics. You are meant to run over it with a warm iron on the reverse side if you are using for clothing for a "set". I never used an iron but never used it on clothing. I think they just have that on the label to cover the Permanent*Washable/Drycleaning*Nonfading/Lightfast claims.
If omitting a color with textile paint you can't rush it. You need some good quality paint brushes. I prefer oil brushes or a semi medium stiff real bristle brush. The size would depend on your project. A small 2.5 oz container covers a lot of ground as I like to water it down a bit, paint a light layer, dry and another light layer. That whole headboard took slightly over one 2.5 oz bottle, maybe just under a container and a half. You can put as many layers on as you like. By doing it that way it still feels like fabric when done, not painted fabric. You will also need a plate to swish your brush across after loading with paint to get the paint around equally within the brush as well as to remove excess and will also need a rag or paper towel if you need to blot. Or, a stencil if you are adding a pattern! I soft brush it all out when dry but some do it while still wet.


Jacquard textile color
clipped on: 12.11.2012 at 09:40 am    last updated on: 12.11.2012 at 09:41 am

In-cabinet lighting

posted by: graywings on 11.27.2012 at 10:32 am in Kitchens Forum

I did a search of this forum but didn't find discussions on installing lights inside kitchen cabinets with glass doors. I notice in-cabinet lights on kitchens in television programs, but I wonder whether it is done in real life.

Must you have glass shelves to allow the light to reach the whole cabinet? Are glass shelves practical for every day use with dishes? Is it possible to leave space behind solid shelves so that the light goes down the back of the cabinets?


clipped on: 11.29.2012 at 10:18 am    last updated on: 11.29.2012 at 10:19 am

What do you think of this wallpaper for a powder room

posted by: MarinaGal on 09.08.2012 at 12:49 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

We are in the process of purchasing a 1919 Craftsman Bungalow house. The current first floor powder room needs some spiffing up, and I want to replace the wallpaper (sorry, no photos yet - but should be able to get in the house next week). The house is a bit formal and I am looking for paper that is not completely out of line with some of the Craftsman features of the house, but that is also on the fun and more modern side. I am considering the red koi paper for the focal (vanity) wall in the bathroom. Looking for opinions on whether the paper is appropriate for a guest powder room and whether it has the playful fun vibe I am seeking? The bathroom is large enough to accommodate the scale of the paper. Good choice, or keep looking?


it's made by Osborne & Little.
clipped on: 10.08.2012 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2012 at 05:40 pm

RE: BM vs. Glidden (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: funcolors on 12.17.2011 at 03:14 pm in Paint Forum

Cheaper ceiling paint juxtaposed to 'expensive stuff' on the walls can actually create an interesting contrast. The cheaper stuff on ceiling makes the 'expensive stuff' on the walls shine (as in featured) a lil more.

I agree that ceilings don't see wear and so the final film doesn't need to be as durable.

I'm going to tell a crazy color lady story. I believe that cheap ceiling paint *breaks down* after a few years and results in teeny-tiny, super fine particles of white dust in the space. Discovered this with the first brand new build I bought. Watered-down, cheap-to-begin-with ceiling paint throughout the house. As we systematically painted each room including ceilings with quality grades of paint, that fine white dust started to magically disappear. Literally one freshly painted bedroom would be practically dust free every week and the one with original paint right next to it would have a layer of that fine dust.

Then I started testing my theory with client's homes - 'cuz maybe mine was weird or somethin'. And don't ya know, I saw the same thing occur.

Every paint person I've shared this with thinks I'm nuts because "paint doesn't just break down and fall off the walls". I kinda think watered-down cheap paint does. And I think it's a good argument to choose a better grade for the ceiling.


Cheap paint causing dust in house.
clipped on: 12.18.2011 at 09:51 am    last updated on: 12.18.2011 at 09:52 am

RE: estate sale expertise (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: timesavers on 12.05.2011 at 11:06 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I have an estate sale business that I have been running for 11 years now. The weekend before Christmas is perfectly fine for running a sale and actually is a good one. We do them right up until the holidays and we even now hold sales on some holiday weekends, such as Memorial Day, Labor Day, etc....which never used to be done before. I am in the Chicago area and we are number one in the country for the amount of estate I am not sure where you care located, but people love them and will come. My one big piece of advice to you is to advertise in the right places. Local newspapers are fine, but only a certain amount of people read them anymore or look for sales there. We still do them, but it is secondary. The main place online that most of the companies advertise is Do not omit this!! We pay large fees to belong as gold members and advertise our sales without a charge, but they allow 'privately listed' sales and everyone who regularly goes to these sales go to this site. It has been around for a long time now (I have been a member since 2004) and it is the 'go to' place for estate sales. Also you can put your sale on, (singular on sale) and also put the sale on craigslist and point that ad to your main listing on but put the craigslist ad on the night before very late so you come up at the top. Post as many pictures on as you can, that is the key so people can see individual items (not just the room) that you are selling and they will come for specific items sometimes. Pull out anything and everything you don't want any longer, as the more you have, the better people like it. They even buy half empty bottles of cleaning supplies, used towels, bedding, you name all adds up and brings people in. As for credit cards, I would not advertise that you will take them, as then every person wants to use their debit card for $2 purchases and it becomes a hassle at checkout. If you feel that someone will buy a more expensive item if you take a credit card, then just use Paypal....if you don't have an account, you can sign up easily and you don't need to buy 'Square' or any other thing or sign up for a service, if this is a one time deal. But as many people posted, CASH IS KING!!! Most people know that cash is the main thing accepted at estate sales. You can advertise on that it is cash only. That way people will know ahead of time. You can post your Terms and Conditions on there......such as Cash Only, No Early Birds, Numbers given out at 8:30 (or whatever), we reserve the right to refuse entry to anyone at any time, etc. The key is good pictures and good descriptions of what you have....i.e., Ethan Allen maple dresser.......brands, type of wood, any details, etc. If you need any further help or information, you can email me through my web site. Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: my site


Estate sales
clipped on: 12.06.2011 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 12.06.2011 at 08:20 am

RE: Do you all follow decoration rules? (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: GreenDesigns on 07.15.2011 at 01:50 pm in Home Decorating Forum

If you are having a difficult time finding a large format piece that you like, consider doing a wallpaper mural instead. You could cover the entire wall with a depiction of a bunch of grapes and a wine glass, or a scenic view of a mountain or a copy of a fine art piece. Or you could have the mural done in a more traditional print size and frame around it on the wall with picture frame molding. I've hung an old window (with a curtain rod and curtains mounted as well) on a wall over a mural so it looked like a window into Fairyland or a view of the beach. Lots of options exist for creativity.

I'll tell my secret fave place to find custom murals, but you'll hate me because you'll spend hours looking at options. Americanblinds. com has a custom mural application that lets you choose images from the thousands at Fotolia. Or you can choose from stock graphics and customize the color. Or you can upload your own images if you want a large size portrait of the family cat etc. It's frankly so addictive that I hesitate to pull anyone else into the vortex!

Here is a link that might be useful: Create your own mural or wallpaper


Create your own mural or wallpaper
clipped on: 07.15.2011 at 01:58 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2011 at 01:59 pm

RE: Denatured alcohol test - oil vs. latex (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paintguy on 06.20.2011 at 07:22 pm in Paint Forum

Denatured alcohol will remove latex and shellac based paint but will do nothing to oil based paint.


clipped on: 06.21.2011 at 11:56 am    last updated on: 06.21.2011 at 11:56 am

RE: Grasscloth in powder room? (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: blubird on 02.03.2010 at 09:00 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Ugh! I had written a reply and then attempted to post it and got one of those 'maintenance' messages, so I'll try to reconstruct it.

The coloring of the 'paper' is actually a mid-tone avocado-ish. It's not quite a grasscloth texture - rather it has more of a horizontal texture and the coloring itself has a crackle look to it with a lighter green. The grasscloth look in this coloration was more of a solid. I actually realized while writing the reply that I'm sitting in my office which does have a grasscloth textured vinyl wallpaper in a natural color.

One big advantage of the vinyl over real grasscloth is that there are no little hanging strings or grass pieces for little kids to pull off (who me?). And if a wall is properly prepared for wallpaper, wallpaper is a breeze to take care of. The powder room paper is up about 7 years - the upstairs bath paper is up about 5 - both look brand new. I doubt if painted walls would have looked very good by now, especially in the powder room with the 4 year olds.

The wallpaper is from Warner Wallcoverings - the pattern number is 98-4427, but I think that changes with the books. If I recall correctly, it's one of the World of Texture Books and each book carries a different set of colorations. It's still current as I've seen it recently.

Here's a picture of the office grasscloth. I think it's from the same series as the wallpaper above.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

and here's a closeup of the texture:
Image and video hosting by TinyPic



Grasscloth wallpaper
clipped on: 06.04.2011 at 07:56 am    last updated on: 06.04.2011 at 07:56 am

The Bright Orange curtains are up!

posted by: pipdog on 05.12.2011 at 01:39 am in Home Decorating Forum

As promised, here are a few photos of the orange curtains that GW'ers encouraged me to try. I'm really glad I went bold on the color - it provides the room with depth and warmth which is a nice contrast to the cool hue on the wall. And I like how the diamond shapes in the pattern of the fabric plays off the diamond shapes in the bay window in the adjacent room. Not too bad for inexpensive fabric I initially discovered at Wal-Mart!




Orange Curtains
clipped on: 05.19.2011 at 08:28 am    last updated on: 05.19.2011 at 08:28 am

Remove Painted Old Wallpaper - No Pain

posted by: detroit_burb on 03.31.2011 at 10:28 pm in Old House Forum

I'm trying to prepare my sweet old bungalow for sale. Every room has been restored or updated and is beautiful except for the original yellow and black tiled bathroom and I want to clean it up so that the whole house will shine.

The previous owner got lazy after stripping what looks like 1950 textured paper from a small bathroom. He left the glue with bits of old paper, sealed it over with what appears to be a latex glue sealant, then covered all of this with a textured wallpaper and painted over that layer. When I bought the house eight years ago, the newly done texture looked fresh, now it's disgusting, and peeling in places. The best solution was to remove it.

The first layer came off fairly easily because it is modern paper, and there was a sealant under it.

It then took me about four hours to strip about three square feet of the sealed over glue plus bits of old paper. I came to gardenweb for ideas before considering caving and buying toxic latex paint remover. my baby's room is next door so I really didn't want to do that.

Experimenting with things around the house that previous posters suggested, along with some creativity, this is the best, cheapest, easiest method I came up with.

Mix cheapest fabric softener 1:3 with water and leave it in a container. Take bounty paper towel (or any thin cloth like j-cloth) and soak in the solution, squeeze out a little bit. Stick it on the wall. Cover with vapor barrier of your choice and gently flatten it out (I used aluminum foil, but any plastic will work). Go hang out with your kids for a while - at least 30 min, and ignore. Come back and gently scrape towards you with a wallpaper scraper (I paid $15 from ACE) a few times, sponge a little more fabric softer, gently scrape again and it's all gone clear down to the lovely pea green original paint!! Reuse the paper towel and the foil ad infinitum. I must stress that you only need to scrape gently. If it is not soft enough, leave on for longer until it works.

This was under five minutes hands on per square foot time spent, and the bathroom smells lovely. No toxins, no gloves needed, very little waste because the paper towel and foil are reused.

You can test for lead in a small area before you do this. If you suspect lead, it is not wise to dry sand any areas, and read up on safe practice, as well as local code regarding this.


clipped on: 04.03.2011 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 04.03.2011 at 09:34 am

RE: Spell it out in very simple terms please... :) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: paintguy on 02.08.2011 at 09:28 pm in Paint Forum

There is really no need to spot prime patches anymore (at least with the paints I use). In fact, spot priming patches can actually be a bad thing when those spot primed areas flash through. My theory on why this happens is that the primer is a better sealer than the topcoat so since the wall is sealed better there, it flashes. If you are going to spot prime, I would use the actual paint itself instead of a seperate primer. But really spot priming is not necessary with modern day paints...two full coats of a quality washable topcoat is all you need. If you are going to prime, prime the entire wall, not just spots of the wall. Also, when buying patching, especially if you are going to Ace, do not buy/use that Red Devil vinyl spackle. It's absurdly hard to sand even though it says 'easy to sand' on the label and since homeowners generally apply too much patching to the wall, they end up sanding forever and still not getting the patch smooth because you almost need a belt sander. Can you tell I have a problem with Red Devil? I prefer lightweight joint compound...I'm not sure if Ace sells that, but Home Depot certainly does. It's very cheap, comes in gallon pails and is made by Sheetrock USG. What you want is the Plus3 which has the blue lid. You can also use the stuff that is tinted yellow which helps you to see it better when patching white walls, but I believe that stuff only comes in 5 gallon boxes. It is nice to be able to see where you patched though so that you don't accidentally paint over an unsanded patch. There is also another company called Pro Form I believe that makes lightweight compound.


clipped on: 02.09.2011 at 04:09 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2011 at 04:11 pm

RE: Your best drywall patching tips? Prominent place to be done. (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: andee on 01.31.2011 at 07:05 pm in Home Decorating Forum

I absolutely swear by this method. I followed it exactly to fix a hole where there had been an old intercom and you'd never know it had been patched.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drywall repair


Drywall repair
clipped on: 01.31.2011 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 01.31.2011 at 09:06 pm

RE: Plaster walls (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: graywings on 09.16.2010 at 05:53 pm in Old House Forum

A 3/16 inch masonry drill bit to pre-drill and two WallDog "Screw and Anchor in One" screws and it's up. Thanks everyone!


Mounting on plaster walls.
clipped on: 01.24.2011 at 05:02 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2011 at 05:02 pm

RE: Help newbie with window treatments? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: suero on 01.10.2011 at 03:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Get pleater tape and pleater hooks, and you can make pinch pleat draperies without error. I did it, and I don't sew. You sew (or, in my case, use fusible webbing) to attach the pleater tape to the sheet. Then you insert the pleater hooks into the tape for perfect pinch pleats.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to make drapes with pleater hooks


clipped on: 01.11.2011 at 07:48 pm    last updated on: 01.11.2011 at 07:49 pm

RE: Wall repair questions (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: brickeyee on 01.04.2011 at 10:32 am in Old House Forum

Oil based primer helps hold the surface together without adding additional water.

There are some latex paints that claim to perform the job, but since they contain water it is going to soak into the plaster.

Large soft areas that show fine cracks may need to be removed down to a solid layer and repaired.

Easysand is a setting type drywall compound available in a range of setting times that works well (and can be sanded if required).

Durabond is so hard it really cannot be effectively sanded, but is as hard as old plaster.

Either compound should be mixed as thick as smooth peanut butter for patching plaster.

It WILL take longer than the time on the bag to fully harden, but you can apply another coat once the first has hardened even though it may not appear dry.

These compounds harden by chemical reaction, not by drying out (like pre-mixed drywall compound).

The hardening is not reversible or alterable by adding more water.

More water just makes the compound shrink as it hardens and not be as strong.


Plaster repair
clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 12:20 pm

custom hallway runner not wide enough?

posted by: srg215 on 01.03.2011 at 04:24 pm in Home Decorating Forum

we got a runner made for our curved staircase & upstairs hallway which goes in a T shape. it cost $$$$! but something has been bothering me since we got it a couple of months ago. it looks great on the stairs, but too skinny through the hallway. they left too much floor space on either side of the runner. it bothers me all the time, but it was so damn expensive, i can't have it redone. would you be able to live with this?




Karastan Shantung carpet
clipped on: 01.04.2011 at 09:02 am    last updated on: 01.04.2011 at 09:03 am

RE: Best Miter Saw for Me (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: handymac on 11.24.2010 at 08:25 pm in Woodworking Forum

SawStop. The table saw that makes it extremely unlikely you will get more than a scratch. Contractor model is about $900. Seriously, look it up on Google.

The major difference between 10" and 12" miter saws is the 12" compound models cut wider stock than a 10" compound. A 10" slider will cut much wider stock than a 12" compound---but costs much more---starting at $500 and up.

Laser guides are a gimmick, IMHO. The ones I used were not accurate enough even for framing. You still have to measure, so no time saved there. And many can be knocked out of alignment---just too gimmicky.

Go nto a home improvement store, look in the book carousel. Buy a book on finish carpentry or trim carpentry. Shows how to cope.


clipped on: 12.25.2010 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 12.25.2010 at 01:19 pm