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RE: Companion Planting Herbs in Pots (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Aindra on 04.22.2013 at 05:38 pm in Herbs Forum

Think about it in this way...

Basil & Cilantro
They're annual herbs. They last one growing season and they're done. If you don't harvest whole before it goes to seed, you'll see new basil and cilantro next year in unorganized fashion. The basil likes warmth but cilantro do not.

It's biennial herb. It'll last two growing seasons. It'll die in winter but return next spring to flower and seed.

Chives & Tarragon
They're perennial herbs. They'll die in winter but return to life next spring. They're hard to kill so if you managed to do so, you officially have a brown thumb.

Rosemary & Sage
They're also perennial herbs, but they don't die in winter. They're evergreen trees, but the cold winter may kill them. They're not like chives and tarragon; if the winter kill them, they won't return. I don't know your zone, so you might have to take them indoors during the winter to keep them alive.

Separate pots are best
Now you know what they are and you can plan your pots accordingly. For me, I keep every herb separate because it's too troublesome to ensure every plant have their requirements fulfilled. For an example, what if one plant grew faster than other plants and blocking the sun from them? What if one plant is stressed by heat and you need to move it to shady area, but it means other heat-loving plants will suffer in shade too? It's too much hassle.

If I'd to group, I can start with three: basil, parsley and cilantro. The cilantro dislike heat and it'll bolt in early sign of summer heat, and leaving basil and parsley to themselves. The basil will then start to flower and seed at late summer. The parsley should continue for a while until winter kills it (or you eat them all.) It'll return next spring, but you can pull it up and repeat with basil, parsley and cilantro. You can also keep a second pot for cilantro to put in shady area when it gets little warm, and maybe prolong its life.

Assuming if nothing bad or unusual happens to them.

And perennial plants in their own pots. They'll last long time if properly cared after so why stress them whole time?

This post was edited by Aindra on Mon, Apr 22, 13 at 17:44


clipped on: 04.29.2013 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2013 at 02:27 pm

RE: Clematis Newbie with Questions (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: dlbk on 06.15.2012 at 05:13 pm in Clematis Forum

When I first began growing clematis, I experienced a few years of frustration trying to figure out what their wants & needs were. Finally, working up to about 40 varieties in my gardens, I've had excellent success keeping these basics in mind:

* SUPPORT - Provide a sturdy support tall enough to accommodate the variety's height, and something for the vine's petioles to wrap around securely as they climb, so they don't crack or break. (I use bird netting or trellises with small diameter framework or wire)
Plants such as roses (a lovely, classic combination) give clematis a natural support to climb and also provide shade for the roots, which prefer to be kept cool.

* FERTILIZER!! - (can't stress enough)
Most important - use a low nitrogen fertilizer in early spring (I use 10-20-10). I also fertilize once or twice more during the growing season with 10-10-10.

* WATER - supply sufficient moisture, but don't let roots sit in soggy soil. Provide good drainage.

If you make those 3 things priorities, you should have very good results.

One other tip - when planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the pot the plant is in, add organic matter (compost, leaf mold)and plant 3-4" deeper than soil level in the pot.

It all becomes second nature after a time and the rewards are priceless.

Good luck!


clipped on: 04.23.2013 at 01:34 am    last updated on: 04.23.2013 at 01:34 am

RE: What's a good carpet plant for a woodland garden in Seattle? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: eeldip on 05.20.2012 at 12:43 pm in Northwestern Gardening Forum

i find that non grass carpet planting is just high maintenance in general. either it takes a lot of weeding to keep looking good, or you get something super aggressive that jumps its bounds.

just haven't hit that happy medium.

i would stick with paths of chips mixed with your needle drop and nice lowish plants. luzula sylvatica has worked for me in this application very well. just periodically weed around it, divide it every few years. occasionally water it, or leave it alone.

Here is a link that might be useful: luzula sylvatica


clipped on: 04.16.2013 at 08:52 am    last updated on: 04.16.2013 at 08:52 am

RE: Where to Get Siliconized Latex Caulk? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mongoct on 10.10.2008 at 01:12 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I've never used it, but Red Devil supposedly has a caulk coloring kit.

You add latex paint to whatever type of dispensing gizmo they have and the caulk comes out the color of the paint.

Doesn't mention any restrictions on the type of caulk used. I know it's not a perfect solution for you, as you'd have to get some brown paint to do it, but it fits into the theme of the thread for anyone else reading.

Personally I'd rather use a siliconized-latex instead of a 100% latex in a shower, even a Kerdi shower.



clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 01:21 am    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 01:22 am

RE: Onyx tile shower: where to use caulk vs. grout? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: kaysd on 01.10.2011 at 02:08 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks, Bill. I went back to the tile store where I bought the tile and grout and asked for siliconized latex caulk, but they do not carry it. The grout we bought is Durabond in white (there was only one shade of white).

I have to go to Home Depot to try to find siliconized latex caulk in white, and the odds of finding Durabond are low. Are there other brands you would recommend?


clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 01:13 am    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 01:16 am

RE: Tile experts, incl Bill V: May I ask you some questions? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 10.10.2011 at 02:55 pm in Bathrooms Forum

1. What do you think about the product Grout Boost vs sealing the grout? Our flooring company is recommending Grout Boost.

Most grouts are already modified, so the grout boost isn't necessary. Additionally, adding it to an already modified grout may cause problems between the different polymers. AS for sealing grout, I'm in the minority, but if you look at my FAQ thread in the gallery forum, you'll see I don't believe in sealing grout.

2. I've read a lot about caulking the corners of the showers and where the tub meets the tile (shower/tub combo), do you recommend this? Do I have to ask for anything specific?

Absolutely. Wherever you get your grout, ask for latex caulking by the same manufacturer, and in the same color and texture(sanded or unsanded), so that once dried, it'll look exactly like your grout.

3. One of the bathrooms is a kids little son doesn't always have great aim when he uses the toilet. Is there any way to protect the grout in this area to avoid any odors? In our current house, I clean the area as often as I can...and even so there is still odor sometimes. I've read some people caulk the base of the toilet, but then read that is not recommended in case there is a leak.

If this is the case, you may consider using an epoxy or urethane grout for the floor. Neither one will allow urine to get into the grout, making it much easier to keep clean. As for caulking the base of the toilet, many times it'll depend on where you live. Some places require that you caulk the whole base, while others require that you DON'T. If it were up to me, I'd leave it alone and not caulk the toilet base. If I HAVE to caulk it, I'll still leave a gap in the back of the topilet so you know before it's too late if you end up with a leak in the flange seal.

4. I am looking for a light to medium beige porcelain travertine-look tile that doesn't break the bank (around $2-$4 SF). Ideally I'd like it rectified so I can do a smaller grout line. Any recommendations?

My recommendation would be for Laufen, but someone else posted a link to some pretty impressive looking large format travertine lookalike that was VERY reasonable in price. If I were in the market for a tile like this, that's where I'd be looking.


clipped on: 01.16.2012 at 11:39 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 01:01 am

RE: Grout and caulk questions (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.06.2011 at 09:00 am in Bathrooms Forum

brickeyee and Laz-- I cannot recall the last time I saw a toilet that WAS caulked. In fact, I don't think I've EVER seen one caulked.

My bathrooms were redone about 6 years ago, and this at least the 3rd time I've had to redo the joint with silicon caulk.

Here's the problem with 100% silicone caulk, and one of the reasons I don't like to use it-- ALL caulking has to be replaced sooner or later, and with the silicone, once used, nothing else will stick-- not even more silicone-- until all residue of the previous bead of silicone has been completely cleaned away. This means that every time you've caulked, there's been microscopic voids where water could get trapped, and that's where you've gotten your n start with the mold and mildew. Jasco puts out a solvent for cleaning that old caulking out once you've removed most of the old bead. Once you've cleaned it, go back with a siliconized latex caulk (and I'd use one from one of the grout companies, being that they all have antimicrobial agents in them to fight mold and mildew), and you should be fine.

Chinchette-- Actually, it CAN be filled evenly with caulking. As a favor to a contractor, I just went in and caulked a joint that big from a hardwood floor to a brick hearth about two weeks ago. What you need to do is tape off both sides of the joint with blue painters tape, (preferrably 2" tape), and then instead of tooling it with your finger and using a sponge to finish the joint, go to a hardware store, and get a "throw away" plastic putty knife, and use that to tool the joint. It'll give you a nice flat joint, flush to the top of the tile, and then as soon as you tool the joint, pull the tape, and it's a done deal.


clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 12:50 am    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 12:54 am

RE: Grout and caulk questions (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 12.27.2010 at 03:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Quite frankly, I don't usually do ANYTHING to the joint where the toilet and floor meet. But I do know that there are some jurisdictions where it's required, and in that case, it should be caulking. As for where the tile stops and gets grouted to the sheetrock or cement board, grout is fine there.

Now, as for grouting 1/8" joints with unsanded grout. I try to discourage it, because unless the grout is mixed extremely stiff, it tends to shrink and crack, as well as show alot of pinholes, afterward. But manufacturers (all of them) claim you can use it up to 1/8". As for the spots where the joints get a little bigger, you can't switch from one to the other in the middle of the wall. It'd look terrible. The best bet is if there ARE any areas that look sub-par, have him retouch them. If it's been 3 weeks, he may have to dig the grout out first and regrout, let it dry, and then check to make sure the new grout didn't cause a problem, and if it did, he can go back over it with another coating within the first 72 hours.


clipped on: 06.26.2012 at 12:52 am    last updated on: 06.26.2012 at 12:53 am

RE: Hole-y Marble Batman...that's a lot of stuff! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: akchicago on 05.22.2011 at 01:38 pm in Kitchens Forum

Some people think a lot of holes around the faucet looks busy, and it's harder to clean around your little "forest" of fixtures around the sink. But, you CAN do one less hole, and here's how. That pesky air gap. It's required in California (I assume from your name that is where you are), one of only a handful of states that still require an air gap. Most states have determined that instead of an air gap, the "high loop" installation on a DW is superior, rendering the air gap obsolete. Sooo, if your kitchen is going to be inspected for Code compliance, cut 3 holes at main sink. Install for the inspection the faucet, the air switch and the air gap. After the inspector leaves, replace the air gap with the soap dispenser (they're the same size hole).

This plan (BTW, already done happily by many Forum members) is predicated on installing the DW with a "high loop" installation. The high loop on the drain hose is to prevent dirty water that is exiting the DW from backing into the DW and re-dirtying the dishes. Most DW's come with the hose already high-looped--so easy--but if not, your installer should do it. It takes all of 5 minutes, and is STANDARD for DW installation. If your DW installer doesn't know what a high loop installation is, get a new installer. It's DW installation 101. So, eliminate the air gap, replace it with the soap dispenser after inspection.

DiyNetwork Video on High Loop Install


clipped on: 06.15.2012 at 01:22 am    last updated on: 06.15.2012 at 01:23 am

RE: Some of the best advice from the braintrust on this forum (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: buehl on 02.05.2011 at 03:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if you've read the "Read Me" thread, but the "Best Advice" and other, similar, threads are linked in it. They're located in the "Miscellaneous Information"-->"Helpful Threads" topic.

Here's your list, reformatted for ease of reading (see "Curious about text in messages (adding bold, italics, etc.)", also in the "Miscellaneous Information"-->"Helpful Threads" topic.)


  • lay the kitchen out on the ground outside with all the measurements and walk around it to see if it felt right. I took my measurements and scraps of wood and laid them out in the various plans I had come up with.
  • check out the sound of the fan in the new ovens. I would have been pretty steamed to spend a bunch on a new range and have that sound come blaring out each time I used the oven.
  • putting Blumotion on the cabinet doors. This is my favorite feature in our kitchen and the cost was cheap to add these on after the cab install.
  • "zones" on this forum, and designed my kitchen around them, with a tremendous amount of help from my forum friends. In my old kitchen, the dishwasher opened across from the island (right into the backs of my legs). Now, the cleanup zone is on the peninsula, the prep area is between the fridge and sink, etc. It's really wonderful.
  • No air gap -- most modern dishwashers don't need them, so you don't have to have that extra unattractive "thing" on your countertop. Easy way around that if you need to pass code inspection is to drill the hole for air gap... pop it on for inspection and when they've gone take off the air gap and pop on your soap dispenser. Then put the loop in the hose at the back of your dishwasher...
  • Advantium
  • Miele dishwasher
  • Test tube rack for spice storage
  • Lay it out with tape to double check
  • advice for setting up a temp kitchen
  • Measure from 3 points wall to wall. Had I known this when we remodeled the entire house in 1990, I would now have the room to put in a pro-style range. As it is, I am exactly....1/4" short. Talk about frustrating! Our cabs are in great shape and I love them, but I'm stuck with the 29-7/8" width on the range.
  • I really like this that I stole from Dmlove--- I love not having all those cords on my desk/countertop! So best advice from this forum... details make the difference! for now my phone sits over the hole
  • pull down (rather than pull out or side spray) faucet
  • Bluestar, after asking about the best 30 inch slide-in range
  • batch-feed garbage disposals
  • adding outlets
  • Galaxy Tool Supply for our sink
  • Never MT
  • Plugmold
  • Wide/shallow cabinet for William Sonoma ultra-thin step stool.
  • Airswitch on disposal. Never minded the wall switch, but now that I have a nice backsplash and an island
  • Floodstop on icemaker and washing machine.
  • I put power into the back of 4 drawers, so each family member has a place to charge the cell phone (or camcorder or whatever) out of sight.
  • I also have a false panel behind a niche so that the power / wallwarts / phone wire / wireless access point is hidden. Only the phone sits out exposed. Similar to the idea above, but using depth.
  • Don't pack your booze prior to remodeling (this is VERY important! VERY IMPORTANT!)
  • Lacanche
  • caulk on change of planes verses grout...look at the underside of your cabinets
  • Plugmold for under the ends of my island so I didn't have to cut outlets into my beautiful cabinets
  • integrated drainboard cut into the countertop
  • raising the countertop for my wall oven - which gave me a bonus "standing desk" for my laptop
  • never thought I could get talked out of gas. So, that is the best advice so far
  • I'm a single sink convert, based solely upon the reviews on this website.
  • DH and I made a "never mt" out of tubing bought for $0.46 at Lowes. It's really not very exciting, though. It's clear tubing (like the kind you see on aquariums) attached to the bottom of the soap dispenser thing, and then extends down through the lid and into the bottom of the bottle of soap. (We just drilled a hole in the top of the bottle and shoved the tubing down.) So low tech! The tubing is something like $.23/ foot and we bought 2 feet. Super easy.
  • Landing space between appliances
  • Aisle clearances
  • Wait until its right - the right plan, the right time, the right appliances.
  • instant hot water heater
  • Getting a 36" range
  • baking center
  • online resources for sinks and faucets
  • the importance of putting functionality first in all design decisions
  • how to test granite for durability
  • remote blower for hood fan
  • single deep fireclay sink
  • lots of great online resources for sinks, faucets, etc
  • Never NEVER NEVER!!!! Leave your construction site to go on vacation ::scary music:: I MEAN NEVERRRRR!!!!!
  • the best (and most costly) is don't settle. You have to live with this kitchen for quite some time. Don't settle! (Even if that means you scrapped the cabinets today, called of the GC for 8 weeks while you order new ones, and you can't live in your home so you have to find somewhere else to live for three months). And maybe Santa won't know where you live!!!
  • Pegasus under-cabinet lighting here. Slim, good-looking, very energy-efficient, and reasonably priced.
  • I was convinced of the superiority of the Miele cutlery rack
  • do not rush..get a good plan in place. Pick what you love ..NOT what the designer loves
  • Brizo Floriano/pulldowns in general
  • xenon lighting
  • Venting
  • Tapmaster
  • take pictures of everything while your walls are open. It is very helpful to have that photographic record of where electric, pipes, studs etc. actually are. Also, plan for where you want to install pot/wall racks, shelf brackets, etc.--and add extra framing in the walls before they get closed up.
  • Get your floor plan right!
  • The Franke Orca sink ... to die for.
  • Inexpensive but quality Ticor sinks for laundry and prep.
  • Plugmold giving me a crisp, clean and outlet-free backsplash.
  • The personal, real life stories shared here gave me the confidence to push back at the stoneyard and insist on marble for my island. It pairs beautifully with the soapstone perimeter.
  • Bertazzoni range
  • White America Quartzite to go with SS
  • LED undercabinet lights
  • internet and eBay vendor recommendations
  • Hancock & Moore leather furniture (from GW furniture forum)
  • Microfiber cloths for cleaning SS and granite.
  • we had scaled drawings, pictures, and sketches taped to walls and cabinets all over the kitchen. A sketch of the island layout, a drawing with dimensions for light fixtures and switches, a sketch showing the spacing of shelves, a picture of how we wanted plugmold installed - you name it, we had it on a piece of paper and taped on a wall. When we would discuss anything with the electrician, plumber, etc., usually we would show them a drawing or sketch so they would know exactly what we were looking for. Then we would post it on the wall in the kitchen. It may have been slightly annoying to those working there, but it was amazing how much it helped. A number of times after someone screwed something up I would just point to a drawing and they would immediately have to take the blame and offer to fix it. There was never any chance to claim that we never told them or that we had said something else. It was right there on the wall the whole time.
  • undercounter light switch for undercounter lights
  • tilt-out shoe storage cabinet
  • Get hardwoods instead of laminate. Once I investigated I couldn't believe at how little difference in cost between the two (good decent laminate vs. hardwood)
  • This is AWESOME! I now have a list of things I had never even heard of to check on...and I thought I was on top of things!
  • posters here are willing to share their good and bad experiences so that newbies like me can have a smoother reno.
  • Something that I'm slowly realizing as I continue to read the posts here is that, despite the best of planning, something (or things) likely will not go as planned.
  • Buy appliances available locally (so service is available), from retailers who will actually stand behind the sale instead of shifting all blame and responsibility to the manufacturer - even when they shipped a defective product. Just finished reading a long thread about someone that bought from an internet retailer, and it was shocking to see the attitude of the retailer. Forget the pre sale promises and assurances from some of these disreputable internet companies who won't be there if you have a problem and just get them locally. No small percentage of savings is worth it if you end up with a defective product shipped and the retailer says it isn't his problem. If you must buy via internet, make sure you get in writing that the product will be shipped defect-free and if there's anything wrong with the unit at all - IMMEDIATELY contest the charge with your credit card company. Don't rely on promises that a minor (or major) problem will be promptly repaired by a service company.
  • learning all the lingo was great. When the contractor asked if I wanted plugmold I didn't go "huh?" I think by being knowledgeable before talking to the contractor it helps a lot.
  • Knobs vs. Pulls. There have been several discussions of knobs vs. pulls. Some comments:
  • Knobs on base cabinets can catch on clothing (and rip sometimes).
  • Cabinets/drawers w/pulls can usually be opened w/one finger...even the pinky finger.
  • Susan Jablon glass tile. Everyone who comes in my house walks up to my backsplash and has to touch it. I had just about given up the idea of a glass tile backsplash before finding out about her site on this forum. The price of her tile, even with shipping, was about half of what I could have bought it for locally and it is gorgeous!
  • No sockets/switches in backsplash (under cabinet plug strip)
  • Toe kick on trash pop out BUT... ADD a second spring to add power to the pop (thank you for whoever mentioned this ingenious bit of info)
  • Double layered cutlery drawer (secret drawer within a drawer)
  • What to look for when choosing undercabinet lighting eg... reflection, spread of light, color of light, heat...
  • Benefits of a large farmhouse sink
  • Miele dishwasher
  • superb
  • Thermador cooktop and all the controversy about the popup draft and how I could get away with not having one. THANK YOU!
  • Miele warming drawer FANTASTIC and thank you for making me realize that it doesn't have to be on the floor under the oven!!!
  • PLAN YOUR STORAGE SPACE. measure boxes, measure food processor, mixer, stack of plates etc. etc. then make a note of contents in the drawers or cupboards on your plans or diagrams or in your notes.
  • Plug strip under center island.
  • YOU ARE NOT ALONE- PEOPLE WHO CARE ABOUT YOUR CD FRIDGE ARE HERE TO HELP YOU and it's OK to really take your time with your decisions
  • Orca single sink
  • Pot rack in upper cabinet (I think this idea was from loves2cookfor6??)
  • Electrical outlet inside a drawer for a charging station
  • filling in the gap between the fridge and the cupboard above it with some leftover filler and a piano hinge. Cambro...where did you see this idea? Just yesterday we discovered that we might have a significant gap b/w the top of the refrigerator & the bottom of the cabinet above. Our contractor is just going to use filler to hide the gap, but if we put it on hinges it would actually become usable space!
  • knife drawer (I hated that block)
  • gel stain
  • Getting rid of my ugly phone jack and getting a phone that doesn't need one!
  • How to get rid of the drip inside my oven door - with a hanger and a sock going up through the holes at the bottom of the door. Worked like a charm!
  • Get a spine when talking to GC about his version vs. my version of cleaning up the jobsite each day (aka our home).
  • Use masking tape and a measuring tape and make a mock up of where your new cabinets will go. This is a biggie!
  • Dimmer switches! I put them on ALL of the new lighting, including the patio lights adjacent, and have not regretted it once.
  • how great Silgranit sinks are to live with. Never even heard of one before GW.
  • Buying Sources
    • Ticor sinks: Ticor Sinks at Galaxy Tool Supply:
    • Tapmaster:
    • Never-MT: Never-MT:
    • Pop up Outlets: Popup Mocketts:
    • Plugmold Power Strips:
    • Angle Powerstrip:

  • Our Vac Pan. Ours is hooked up to a wet/dry vac in the basement because we do not have central vac. The idea came from this forum and our electrician and contractor figured out how to make it happen.
  • DIY on gel stain. Thanks Celticmoon and Projectsneverend.
  • Soapstone, getting it, finding the right fabricator right here, and caring for it
  • where to find a deal on saddle stools
  • Kohler Vinnata
  • Not to put my cooktop on my island.
  • best advice I got was around my budget and how to make the hard decisions on what should stay in and what should go (that was from Buehl).
  • What is not that important to me and doesn't add functionality? [Candidate for elimination altogether]
  • What can I do at a later date? [Candidate for deferring until a later date]
  • What can't be done at a later date and I can't live without? [Candidate for keeping and doing now]
  • This forum helped me see which terms are worth using, and which can be saved for later. This forum helped me get clearer communication going. Resistance could be expressed when I raised ideas; it all helped to refine the concept.
  • This forum helped me justify personal innovations. This forum confirmed ideas.
  • Tweaking and innovating. I tweaked everything in my kitchen along the way.
  • I don't know if I would have a remodeled kitchen if it weren't for this forum. I would have still been looking at the dreadful old one wishing it was nice and not knowing how to get it nice. Even the ideas & photos of things I didn't want for me helped to define what I did want.
  • I have to give credit to my carpenter, too. There was a time when his eyes rolled when I said, "but the people on the kitchen forum say......." But I had photos and conversations printed off to show him what I meant.
  • Lisalists organized drawers where the dividers go from front to back or side to side so you don't have to nest objects-and you can fit so much stuff in. Easy, easy access. No nesting. Yay
  • Layout, efficiency. This has to be the most important thing I've been learning here. What tasks do you perform, what zones will you organize them in, what items do you need close at hand in each zone, how does traffic between and through zones flow. etc.
  • Styles, materials, looks. People here have great ''eyes'' for style and looks. My eyes have been opened to these looks, and I've learned the vocabulary to describe them.
  • Specific ideas/features I learned about here that seem like they'll be useful: prep sinks, base cabinet drawers, counter top materials other than granite, true convection ovens, unfitted kitchens, under-counter refrigeration.
  • Many things, one of which is using a 13-15" depth cabinet for inset cabinets, as 12 is not sufficient.
  • Carefully placing all the appliances and storage thinking about what you use with what. For example, I moved the microwave to be next to the refrigerator because we use it mostly for reheating leftovers. I have fridge, prep sink, prep area, range, more prep area on one side and on the other I have prep area/ landing zone (across from fridge), main sink, prep area / dishwasher (across from range, but offset so both people can work) in the island.

Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!


clipped on: 05.07.2012 at 02:01 am    last updated on: 05.27.2012 at 06:53 pm

* Bill Vincent * Tile bathroom ceiling

posted by: dgf1 on 01.30.2008 at 08:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi Bill,

Saw your work on-line and its looks very impressive. I noticed you tiled your ceilings frequently and they came out great. I am about to also tile a bath/shower and plan to do the ceiling with 6" tiles. Are there any tricks of the trade to get them to stay put? I am concerned the weight may make them fall or shift before the mortar sets.

Thanks in advance of you suggestions,



clipped on: 03.11.2012 at 05:19 pm    last updated on: 03.11.2012 at 05:19 pm

RE: Is the Cree CR6 safe to use over a shower? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: cruzineve on 04.29.2011 at 01:45 am in Lighting Forum

If you decide against LED can, my second preference in shower area is fluorescent. I know, I know..BUT there is twice the light output with fluorescent because it doesn't get as hot as incandescent. I used a can rated for up to 32 watts because you can go as low as 24 watt and as high as 32 watt. For the trim, a "regressed, frosted lense" will give you a nice, soft glow similar to a flood lamp, but I strongly recommend a good quality fluorescent lamp (Sylvania) at 3000 Kelvin. Juno is the only manufacturer that has a regressed trim that will work with a 32 watt.(32 watt lamp is longer than 24 watt so if you decide you are ok with 24 watt, there are more manufacturers available.) I've installed this configuration right next to a can with incandescent flood (in kitchen) and no one could tell the difference in both color and look between the fluorescent and the incandescent.


clipped on: 11.16.2011 at 02:17 am    last updated on: 11.16.2011 at 02:17 am

RE: Steam Shower Vapor Proof Light (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: mongoct on 12.16.2007 at 12:59 am in Bathrooms Forum

There are two things you want:

1) you want the light bulb enclosure to be gasketed. Normally the gasket is between the trim and the can, and it's all held together with crews for a tight seal. That will prevent vapor from entering the fixture. Gaskets that are held together by the trim ring just springing up on the housing? Not good enough in my opinion. Meaning, if you ever need to change the bulb you should need a screwdriver.

2) You want the fixture itself to be sealed to the ceiling, meaning there should be no way for vapor to get between the ceiling and the light housing. You don't want vapor getting into the framing bays of your house.

With Kerdi, I'll seal the Kerdi to the light's housing with Kerdi Fix.

Will a "wet rated light" suffice? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on its design (see #1 above) and with the installation (see #2 above) details.

A vapor rated light meets #1, but it still need to be installed correctly.

Last two steams I've done, one used "Nicole II" lights, the other used one called "Cora". Not all vapor-rated lights are expensive, but those two were.

Wet and vapor-rated assemblies? It's a somewhat code-ambiguous issue where I live. But what I wrote is my way, and I tend to lean towards bullet-proof construction.



clipped on: 10.16.2011 at 02:11 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2011 at 02:13 pm

RE: To help others - Things I would do different and things i lov (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: angela12345 on 08.16.2010 at 01:09 am in Building a Home Forum

Here are links to some of the earlier threads . . . - unique/favorite features in your build.... - Things you couldn't live without or wish you had added - What things did you find needed adjusting or changed? - is there anything you wish you had done - What about your new build makes your life easier; what doesn't ? - Brands/Products That I'd Use Again - Share your best sites for deals on supplies!


clipped on: 10.09.2011 at 01:29 am    last updated on: 10.09.2011 at 01:29 am

Redroze's Finished White and Espresso Kitchen

posted by: redroze on 03.15.2009 at 01:17 am in Kitchens Forum

So...I was waiting for a couple of things to happen until I posted finished kitchen photos. I was waiting for our kitchen table and chairs (ordered and on the way) to come in. I was waiting to figure out how to accessorize my open shelves. I was waiting for our desk chair to arrive and for my husband to purchase the computer monitor. I was waiting to pick up a beautiful rose bouquet to throw in a vase and place on our island. I was waiting to figure out how to take better photos with my new digital camera (and Christmas gift from my husband). And finally, I was waiting for the perfect overcast sky in which to take these photos. And then I thought, to heck with it!!!

I spontaneously decided to just post the near-finished photos tonight. I'll post finished/finished-finished/no-really-finished photos on my website once all of the above happens, so feel free to visit it again in a couple of weeks. But for now, enjoy!

This forum has some of the most generous and spirited people I have ever encountered. I loved and still love coming to a place where people are as enamoured with design and details as much as I am, and dedicate so much time into making their house into a home. I love reading your stories and helping out whenever I can. I wanted to celebrate the success of our kitchen with all of you, and thank you as deeply as one can in the online world, because I can honestly say that our kitchen would never have turned out this way if I didn't "find" all of you on GW. So, thank you.

Click on the link to my website below for more photos and all the details.

Redroze's White and Espresso Kitchen


clipped on: 10.08.2011 at 01:20 am    last updated on: 10.08.2011 at 01:20 am

Finished Peppercorn/Delicatus White for FKB

posted by: kitchenaddict on 06.21.2010 at 06:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here are my official digital pictures for the FKB, along with the list of details as requested by starpooh....

Cabinets- Kraftmaid Peppercorn Stain on cherry
Cabinet Door Style-Layton
Granite--Delicatus White
Flooring-Pergo Select Laminate in Red Prairie Pine
Range-GE Profile
Dishwasher- LG
Refridgerator-Fridgedaire Professional
Backsplash- Crema Marfil Tumbled Marble
Sink- Blanco Silgranit in Anthracite
Faucet- Delta Talbot
Pendants- Bellacor Seeded Bell Jar with Brushed Nickel
Pulls- Kraftmaid

Peppercorn Kraftmaid Cabinets

Here is a link that might be useful: Peppercorn Cabinet Kitchen


clipped on: 10.08.2011 at 01:16 am    last updated on: 10.08.2011 at 01:16 am

RE: Difference between Juno and Halo recessed light: xpost (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: needsometips08 on 02.24.2010 at 08:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

I was the one who put clear alzak Juno trims in Halo cans, and I can't account for any other size, but for 6" cans and 6" trims, the fit is snug and perfect like they were made for each other.

I chime in to these threads because I was told time and time again from every direction that Juno trims don't work in Halo cans, but they do - and perfectly! At least for 6" trims.

Something not mentioned yet was that one complaint about Halo trims was that if you looked up at the light (with the bulb off of course) you could see into the housing. I viewed it at Lowe's and sure enough you could.

The big difference I encountered was looks. Juno trims asthetically look better than Halo's trims, in big part cause Juno hides the housing. Another difference is that Juno offers a 7.25" high can, Halo only offers a 6" tall can, which makes a difference in the wattage you can put in - 6" high cans can only hold up to a 65 watt bulb (and 65 watt bulbs only come in long neck). Those are the only differences I found. Oh, and price. Halo cans are around $6. Junos are around $26.


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 01:37 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 01:53 pm

RE: Difference between Juno and Halo recessed light: xpost (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: Jonathan (Guest) on 02.20.2011 at 04:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Phillips makes a good 75 watt halogen bulb that isn't a long neck, so you could possibly put those in the Halo cans. I have the bulbs in my juno 6" cans and am very impressed at the quality of expert recommended the halogen Par 30 to me as the best quality. It is true that info isn't disseminated amongst the industry as there seems to be a lot of confusion. I found that both cans are good quality but I actually think the HALO's are better. They are much easier to install in new construction and a little easier to wire. Halo cans are more user friendly. Found the Juno's a little rickety. Also FYI, if anyone is using dimmers as I have, the lighting expert said that the dimmers take 15watts off the electricity off the top so if you want 60 watts of light you need a 75 watt bulb.


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 01:36 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 01:37 pm

RE: Please Help me with my Recessed Lighting! (Alzak? Halogen? 6 (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gingerr on 07.30.2010 at 07:17 pm in Lighting Forum

First you have to know what the inulation is over your ceiling. You will be limited to the wattage for insulated ceilings unless you are using batts and not blown insulation. My most favorite light solution in a kitchen is the deep alzack refelctors (deep)They use regular A lamps and if you purchase good quality ones, they spread the light out wonderfully and have a great cut off anlgle which controls glare. IF you buy cheap specular trims and the bulbs sit low in the trim, it is very bad. Juno and Lightolier both make deep alzack trim. Not sure about Halo, haven't sold them in a while. The very best ones in my opinion were made by prescolite but they can be hard to find. On an 8ft ceiling you will not need more than 75 Watts. Another tip has to do with the bulbs. While I am a big proponant of 130 V long life bulbs, they are slightly more red than the 120's. What works the absolute best in a good alzack reflector is a soft white, sometimes called reader white bulb. Use these with a dimmer to extend the life of the bulb and adjust the dimmer whenever you don't need all the light. Recessed lighting can be confusing and with all the bulb changes coming, even more so in the future. The LED bulbs that were suggested are great for energy savings and also they never burn out. I still find them strange however for lighting kitchens and the deep alzack trims are not designed for anything but an A lamp.If you buy a reflector trim and then use either a Par or R lamp, you wasted your money. As to spacing, IF you are lighting any room other than a kitchen then 4 deep alzack reflectors with 75-100 watts iis fine for general lighting. Kitchens are more comlicated since we need both general and task lighitng. I would use 6 if that room is a kitchen making sure that you have all the work areas covered. In a kitchen if you place the recessed cans 18" from the wall, the light will fall on the counter surface and also illuminate the cabinet doors and inside spaces when open. Don't forget to have lighting over any island work space. Use undercabinet lights under your counters. That is a good application for LEDS. The Alzack refelctors will cover about 6 ft of area of that 8 ft ceiling. On higher ceilings the area of light increases, but the footcandle level will be lower on thework surface. Tall ceilings need 100 Watt A lamps but 8 & 9 can usse 75 watt. Whatever you use, be sure that it meets you local electrical code. Don't be bullied into just whatever the contractor likes. Sounds like you found a good showroom where you were getting good information. Perhaps you could purchase the recessed there, where you may be getting professinal advice. Remember most Electricians are not lighting designers!


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 12:39 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 12:39 pm

RE: Annie's salsa mix...big hit (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: annie1992 on 08.06.2005 at 09:53 am in Harvest Forum

That's it, Patris!! I'll send a jar of my salsa to Oprah and she won't be able to resist us. Bwahahahahahah.....

And it only took me five YEARS and countless batches before I got it to the point where I love it. Piece of cake.

Here's the recipe. Note that I cut the vinegar way, way down and pressure cook mine. If you want to HWB it you may, but the vinegar will have to be increased to one cup. You can also sub lemon juice or lime juice for the vinegar for a different flavor (although I tried taking out the cider vinegar altogether and that wasn't right either).


8 cups tomatoes, peeled, chopped and drained
2 cups chopped onion
1 cups chopped green pepper
3 5 chopped jalapenos
6 cloves minced garlic
2 tsp cumin
2 tsp pepper
1/8 cup canning salt
cup chopped fresh cilantro
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup vinegar
16 oz. tomato sauce
16 oz tomato paste
Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, boil 10 minutes. Pour into hot jars, process at 10 lbs of pressure for 30 minutes for pints.

Makes 6 pints

Enjoy this, and happy canning.

Annie (blushing)


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 12:09 pm    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 12:09 pm

RE: bathroom tile FAQ's (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.17.2008 at 07:45 am in Bathrooms Forum

I was just asked another good question, and thought it should be added here:

What is the difference between a water based sealer and a solvent based sealer? How do you know which one to use?

There are two important differences. First, the solvent based sealer is a "breatheable" sealer, while the water based is not. What that means is that the solvent based sealer will let moisture transmit back and forth , so as not to trap moisture in the stone or grout, while the water based sealer will not. The reason this is a good thing is that you don't want moisture getting trapped inside of a surface, and growing mold or mildew INSIDE. That's actually even a tougher situation to remedy than if it just grows on the surface.Secondly, both are what's called "penetrating" sealers, meaning they do their job by penetrating into the stone, and stopping solids from getting into the pores of the stone, thereby curtailing stains taking hold. Water based sealers will not penetrate NEARLY as far into the surface as the solvent based sealers will, and as a result, have to be replaced much more often. About the only time I'll use a water based sealer is if I'm installing something like terra cotta tile, or soft limestone, where I need a pre-grouting sealer to stop the grout from adhering to the face of the tile. Any other time, I'll use solvent based.


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 11:53 am

bathroom tile FAQ's

posted by: bill_vincent on 07.01.2008 at 09:31 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is going to take me a while, so I'll post as many as I can each night until it gets done. To start, here's the first set of questions and answers:

Okay, here we go. These questions come from the thread on the discussions side where I solicited questions from everyone for this thread. These are in the order they were asked:

Q) What are the different types of tiles you can use in a bathroom and what are the advantages/disadvantages of each?

A) There are several types of tile available. They fall into two general groups: ceramic and natural stone. I'll take these one at a time:

Ceramic tile-- For purposes of this discussion, there's glazed conventional, unglazed porcelain, and glazed porcelain. All three are good tiles for bathroom use, but the porcelain is a better choice only because of its density and lack of water absorbsion, which makes upkeep and cleaning easier. Also, with reference to steam showers, you DO NOT want to use natural stone, being that the steam would tend to permeate into the stone even more readily than liquid water, and could end up giving you algae problems, as well as mold and mildew problems, unless you don't mind being tied down to your bathroom.

Natural Stone-- There are several types of stone that are used in bathrooms. It doesn't necessarily mean that they're all GOOD IDEAS for bathrooms, expecially the softer (and more absorbant) stones, such as slate or limestone. Now, I know I'm going to get a world of flack about this from epople who have bathrooms finished in these materials. I know they CAN be used.... so long as you're aware of the extra upkeep involved. But if you're someone who doesn't like to keep after things, you may want to pick an easier material to maintain. Generally speaking, the softer the stone, the more the upkeep. Limestone being the softer of the stones, and that would include travertine, next would be many slates (although some would actually be harder than even most marbles, such as brazilian and british slates), then marbles, with quartzite and granite rounding off the list as the harder and more dense stones that you could use.

Q) What should I be sure to look for when choosing tile for a bathroom?

A) Short answer-- something that you like! The bathroom is the one place that just about anything the showroom has can be used. The only limitations are basically the upkeep you want to put in, and slip resistance on the floors of your bathroom and shower. Now, although ceramic tile is basically maintenence free, you don't want to use something with a texture to it that will catch all kinds of junk in the shower, making it more difficult to keep clean. At the same time, you don't want to use a polished stone or bright glazed ceramic tile for the shower floor, either. These both CAN be used, but again, it comes down to upkeep for textured wall tile, and doing something to rectify the slippery floor.

Q) Where should I use tile and where not?

A) Tile can be used on every single surface in the bathroom, if that's what you like. This is all a matter of taste... for the most part. About the only place where there's a requirement is any place there's a showerhead involved. If tile is to be used either in a shower or a tub/ shower combo, The tile MUST go up to a minimum of 72" off the floor. Past that, it's up to the disgression of the owner.

Q) What size tile and what layout patterns to use in various areas?

A) Again, this is a subjective question that can really only be answered by the owner. The ONLY place where there's a recommendation for mechaincal reasons is on a shower floor. TCNA recommends that mothing bigger than 6" be used on shower floors due to the cone shape of the floor's pitch. In addition, most installers will request no bigger than 4", and prefer a 2x2 tile to work with on the shower floor. This is also advantageous to the homeowner who'll be showering in there, because the added grout joints will add more traction to the floor.

Now, I've heard many times that you shouldn't use large format tiles in a small area like a powder room floor, and if you have a wide open bathroom, you don't want to use real small tiles. My response to both is the same-- HORSEHOCKEY. I've done bathrooms both ways-- 24x24 diagonal in a 3' wide powder room, and 1" hex ceramic mosaics in an open 100 sq. ft. bathroom floor. The rule of thumb is if you like it, it's right!

Q) How do I find/choose someone to install the tile?

A) Many people will tell you to get names from the showroom you get your tile from. This is no good, unless the showroom is willing to take responsibility for the installer by either having them on payrool, or as a subcontract. Then they have something to lose if they give you a bad installer. Many people will also tell you to get references and to actually check them out. This ALSO doesn't work. I've been in this work for just under 30 years now, and I've yet to find a single installer who ever gave the name of someone they had a problem with. They say even a blind squirrel will find a nut once in a while. The same can be said for "fly-by-nights" and good work.

So if you can't trust recommendations, and checking references is a lost cause, what do you do? REVERSE THE PROCESS!! Instead of finding an installer and getting references, get references, and thru them, find your installer!! No matter where you live, if you drive around, you'll find constructions sites and developements. Stop and ask who the GC uses. Get a name and phone number. Sooner or later, after asking around enough, you're going to find that the same names will begin to show up time and time again. THESE are the guys you want to use. But don't expect a bargain price, and be prepared to wait, because these guys will be in high demand, even in the worst of times, and they may demand a bit higher price, but they'll be worth every penny, if for no other reason, just because of the peace of mind they'll give you in knowing you're getting a good quality installation. Ask anyone who's gone through this experience, good or bad-- that alone is worth its weight in gold.

Q) What are the proper underlayments for tile?

A) There are several, and I'll take them one at a time:

CBU (cementitious Backer Units)-- This is the term that generally covers all cement boards (such as Wonderboard or Durock) or cement fiber boards (such as Hardibacker). This is the most common used tile underlayment. Generally speaking, it comes in two thicknesses-- 1/2" and 1/4"-- and each has its use. !/2" must be used for wall installations, due to the fact that the 1/4" is way too flimsy with nothing to back it up, and would flex too much to last. Besides, the 1/2" CBU will usually match up nicely to most sheetrocks. The 1/4" is used for floor installations, unless the added height of the 1/2" is needed to match up to other floorings. Being that neither has very much structural strength, so long as the subfloor is 3/4" or more, the 1/4" CBU is all that's needed. Keep in mind that even though it's basically fiberglass reinforced concrete, the only thing it adds to the floor is a stable bonding surface, so the 1/4" will do just fine. One place where alot of contractors will try and shortcut is by using greenboard instead of CBU for shower walls. This is expressly forbidden in the IRC (International Residential Code) by the following code:

IRC Greenboard Code:
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) states in
Section R702.4.2 that "Cement, fiber-cement or glass mat
gypsum backers in compliance with ASTM C1288, C1325
or C1178 and installed in accordance with manufacturers
recommendations shall be used as backers for wall tile in
tub and shower areas and wall panels in shower areas."

The 2006 IRC also states in Section R702.3.8.1 that
"Water-resistant gypsum backing board [Greenboard] shall
not be used where there will be direct exposure to water."

Membranes-- There are several around that work well over many different surfaces. Most of them are what's called "Crack Isolation Membranes". Just about every manufacturer has one, from trowel ons or roll ons, such as Hydroment's Ultraset or Laticrete's 9235 or Hydroban, to sheet membranes such as Noble's CIS membrane. All will give the tile a little more protection against movement than just going over CBU. However, there's another class of membranes called "uncoupling membranes" of which the most popular by far is Schluter's Ditra, that are made from bonding two layers together, usually a fabric fleece backing and a plastic sheeting with dovetailed waffling to "lock" the thinset in place ( as opposed to accepting a thinset BOND). These membranes will, as their name implies, uncouple their two layers in case of movement, to save the floor, and for thinset floors, it's the most protection you can give your tile floor.

Plywood-- This is one where I get the most flack. I'm one of a dying breed that still believes in tiling directly over plywood. However, I can very well understand the reluctance of the industry to embrace this installation method, even though the TCNA DOES approve of its use for interior installations (Those with a handbook can check Method F-149). The reason I say that is it's a very "tempermental installation method. You need to be very familiar with what you're doing, or you risk failure. There are even many pros I wouldn't trust to tile using this method. Everything you do is important, from the species of plywood used, to the direction the grain is laid with relation to the joists, to how it's gapped, and a host of other specs, as well-- many of which won't be found in the handbook, and if you miss just one of them, you're flirtin with disaster. All in all, when people ask me about it, I tell them that with the membranes available, there's no need to go directly over plywood. There are other methods that will give you just as long lasting a floor, and aren't NEARLY as sensitive.

Mudset-- This is the oldest, and still, after THOUSANDS of years of use, the strongest installation method available. In a mudset installation, a minimum of 1 1/4" of mortar called "drypack" (mixed to the consistancy of damp sand) is either bonded to a concrete slab, or laid down over tarpaper or 6 mil poly with wire reinforcement, packed, and then screaded off to flat level (or pitched) subfloor. This is what most people see when tiling a shower pan. Initially, the mud will be a somewhat soft subfloor. But over time, if mixed properly, it'll be stronger than concrete.

Q) What are the proper tile setting compounds?

A) This is one where I could write a book. It all depends on what kind fo tile you're installing, and what the underlayment is that you're going over. I'll give a generalized list:

Polymer/ latex modified thinset: For all intents and purposes, this is the "cure-all". For almost any installation the modified thinset, which is basically portland cement, silica sand, and chemical polymers added for strength, will work. There are some that are specialized, such as the lightweight non-sag thinsets (such as Laticrete's 255 or Mapei's Ultralite), or the high latex content thinsets (like Latictrete's 254 Platinum or Hydroment's Reflex), but with the exception of going over some membranes, there's a modified thinset for every installation.

Unmodified thinset: This is the same as above, but with no polymers added. It's usually used in conjunction with a liquid latex additive, but will also be used mixed with water for going over some membranes. It's also used as a bedding for all CBU's.

Medium Bed Mortars-- This is a relatively new class of setting mortars, used mainly for large format tiles, where the normal notched trowels just don't put down enough material, and with thinset, it would be too much, causing too much shrinkage as it dries, causing voids under, and poor bond to, the tile, but at the same time, there's not enoough room for a mudset installation. This mortar is usually used with either a 1/2x1/2" or 1/2x3/4" notched trowel.

Mastics and Premixed Thinsets: THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! Let me say that again-- THESE HAVE VERY LIMITED USES!! They work well for vertical installations, where the tile used is 8x8 or less, and it's not a wet area. ALL THREE of those conditions must be met!! I know just about every pail of type 1 mastic says it can be used in showers except for the floor. DON'T BELIEVE IT!! Also, both mastic and premixed thinset (which is just mastic with a fine sand mixed in to give it bulk) claim they can be used for floor installations. Unfortunately, for the amount of material needed under virtually all floor tiles to bond to the subfloor, neither of these will fully harden. I had a personal experience where I helped a sister in law across country, telling her husband exactly how to do his main floor, what to use, and how to use it. Unfortunately, he went to the big box store to get his tile and materials, and they talked him into using premixed thinset. I didn't hear about it until SIX MONTHS LATER when his tile and grout joints started showing cracks all over the floor. When he called me I asked him what he used for thinset, and sure enough, this is when he told me. I told him to pull one of the tiles, and SIX MONTHS LATER, IT WAS STILL SOFT!!! DOn't let them talk you into it!! Use the proper thinset, and don't try and shortcut your installation. You're spending alot of money for it to be "just practice"!!

Q) How do you deal with different thicknesses of tile?

A) Whatever it takes. I've used membranes, built up the amount of thinset being used, I've even doubled up tiles when it worked out that way. Whatever it takes to get the two tiles to be flush toeach other.

Q) What are the typical tools required to lay tile?

A) Generally speaking, this is a list for just about all installations. Some may require specialized tools, but this would be for all:

Proper sized notched trowel
measuring tape
chalk line
margin trowel
high amp low speed drill and mixing paddle (best would be 6 amp or better and less than 400 rpm)
several buckets
score and snap cutter for straight ceramic cuts
4 1/2" grinder with a continuous rim dry diamond blade for ceramic, anything other than straight cuts
wet saw (can be used for ALL cuts, ceramic or stone)
grout float
hydra grout sponges (2-- once for grouting, one for cleaning)
24" and 48" levels (for vertical work)
heavy duty extension cords
screwgun or nailgun (where CBU will be used)

Q) What about tile spacing and tpes of grout?

A) According to Dave Gobis from the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation in Pendleton, South Carolina, there will finally be a new standard for ceramic tile next year. The tolerances are shrinking. There will also be a standard for rectified tile. Along with that, there will be a revision to the installation standards that will specifically recommend a grout joint no less than 3 times the variation of the tile. For rectified tile the minimum grout joint width will be .075 or just over a 1/16".

As for grout, there's only one thing that determines whether you use sanded or unsanded grout, and that's the size of the grout joint. Anything less than 1/8" you use unsanded grout. 1/8" or larger, you need to use sanded grout. The reason is that the main ingredient in grout is porland cement, which tends to shrink as it dries. In joints 1/8" or larger, the grout will shrink way too much and end up cracking ans shrinking into the joint. The sand give the grout bulk, and the sanded grout won't shrink nearly as much and therefore, can be used in the larger joints.


clipped on: 09.28.2011 at 11:51 am    last updated on: 09.28.2011 at 11:51 am