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RE: Remove eat-in area railing with one step? Safety Issue. Pics (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: chicagoans on 04.14.2010 at 10:37 am in Kitchens Forum

There are some really good points in here about potential trip hazards and safety. I know you would like to open up the space, but just as an idea something like this could be practical as well as pretty. You could have the bookshelves on either side (I think it would be nice on the kitchen side for cookbooks and/or small, pretty serving dishes.) If you want a more open feel, the open bookcase is a good idea (on the step, not on your traffic path.)

If you are tight on space, something like this could be really shallow, without the shelves.

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clipped on: 05.02.2010 at 07:41 am    last updated on: 05.02.2010 at 07:42 am

RE: white granite (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dianalo on 04.02.2007 at 09:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
It sounds like you want a granite with a marble look. I have not found one yet but did see this one online. It is called Luce di Luna. It was posted here by someone and I remembered the name.
HTH

Here is a link that might be useful: Luce di Luna

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clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 07:02 pm    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 07:02 pm

RE: The best way to clean.... (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: buehl on 02.12.2010 at 11:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

Countertops

  • Granite & Quartz: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Hand dish detergent & water (go light on the detergent if your stone is dark)
    • "Method" granite cleaner & polish
    • "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B)
    • When cleaning, wipe/dry in circles to help prevent streaks with any cleaner/polish
    • **Warning** Don't use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink
  • Question: Do those of you with marble use the alcohol/water mix, detergent/water mix, Method, or Perfect Kitchen?

  • Wood:

  • Stainless Steel, Copper, etc.: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...


Appliances

  • Stainless Steel Appliances: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • Weiman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can
    • 3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray)
  • Ceramic/Glass cooktops/ranges:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food
  • Non-Ceramic/Glass top ranges/cooktops:
    • BarKeeper's Friend or Dawn Power Dissolver (and a blue scrub sponge) for a thorough cleaning of the black burner pans
    • "Perfect Kitchen" for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges

Floors & Backsplashes (Wood, Tile, etc.)

  • Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • Hot water should be all you need for most of the time.
    • If you need a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.
    • Do not use vinegar or vinegar-containing products. Yes, vinegar will clean your grout, but that's because vinegar works by eating away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time.
  • Hardwood Floors:
    • Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner
  • Slate Floors:

  • Slate Backsplashes:


Cabinets

  • Stained Cabinets:
    • A soft cotton cloth is recommended to wipe any moisture, spills or standing liquid from cabinetry. While paper products are very good at absorbing spills, they are abrasive when used for cleaning.
    • To clean cabinetry, use a soft cotton cloth, dampened with water or a mild dish soap
    • If dish soap used, wipe with a clean damp cloth to rinse
    • Dry with soft cloth
    • Harsh chemicals or ammonia based products should be avoided as they may cause discoloration of the finish.
    • Do not use detergents, oily polishes, or glass cleaners.
    • An occasional light waxing may be required. Avoid frequent cleaning with a waxy cleaner. Use a good furniture brand polish on your cabinetry
  • Painted Cabinets:
    • Damp (not too wet), soft cloth or sponge and mild detergent

  • Laminate Cabinets:
    • Use a damp cloth and water to clean surface of cabinetry, then wipe with a dry cloth.
    • Use a countertop or tile cleaner to clean heavy grease stains or other difficult stains.
    • Do not use abrasive pads or harsh cleaners to clean soiled areas.
  • High Gloss Cabinet Finishes:
    • Clean high gloss cabinetry with mild soap and a damp cloth.
    • Do not use a wax cleaner whatsoever, to avoid discoloration.


Sinks and Sink Fixtures

  • Stainless Steel Sinks:
    • Mild detergent & water
    • BarKeeper's Friend (it will also help minimize the look of scratches on the bottom of a sink)
  • Composite Granite (Silgranit) Sinks:

  • Porcelain Coated Cast Iron Sinks:

  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed):
    • Mild detergent & water
    • **Warning** Don't install a nickel strainer or drain (stick with Stainless Steel or Chrome)
    • **Warning** Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • **Warning** Don't use bleach on nickel

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clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 07:27 am    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 07:27 am

The Best Way to Clean Various Surfaces (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: buehl on 02.11.2010 at 12:49 am in Kitchens Forum

OK, this is what we have so far...


  • Granite & Quartz: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • 50/50 mix of alcohol & water
    • Hand dish detergent & water (go light on the detergent if your stone is dark)
    • "Method" granite cleaner & polish
    • "Perfect Kitchen" (sold at BB&B)
    • **Warning** Don't use plumber's putty on your marble or granite counters to install your faucets or soap dispensers or with a composite granite (e.g., Silgranit) sink
  • Question: Do those of you with marble use the alcohol/water mix, detergent/water mix, Method, or Perfect Kitchen?

  • Stainless Steel Appliances: Microfiber cloth along with one of the following...
    • Weiman SS Cleaner/Polish in the silver can
    • Pledge in the brown can
    • 3M SS Cleaner and Polish (aerosol spray)
  • Stainless Steel Sinks:
    • Mild detergent & water
    • BarKeeper's Friend (it will also help minimize the look of scratches on the bottom of a sink)
  • Nickel fixtures (polished or brushed):
    • Mild detergent & water
    • **Warning** Don't install a nickel strainer or drain (stick with Stainless Steel or Chrome)
    • **Warning** Don't use BarKeeper's Friend or other chemicals on nickel
    • **Warning** Don't use bleach on nickel
  • Ceramic/Glass cooktops/ranges:
    • Ceramic/glass oven surface cleaner
    • Razor blade for stuck-on food
  • Tile Floors & Backsplashes:
    • Hot water should be all you need for most of the time.
    • If you need a grease-cutter, use Oxyclean.
    • Do not use vinegar or vinegar-containing products. Vinegar works by eating away at the grout, little by little. It'll literally burn the grout away over time.
  • Non-Ceramic/Glass top ranges/cooktops:
    • "Perfect Kitchen" for spot cleaning the black enamel burner pans on Wolf ranges
  • Hardwood Floors:
    • Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner
  • Slate Floors:
    • TBD
  • Slate Backsplashes:
    • TBD

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clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 07:25 am    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 07:25 am

Deb2010 - White Quartzite pictures

posted by: sochi on 03.25.2010 at 10:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Deb - as requested, here are a few pictures of my quartzite counters. Kitchen isn't completely pulled together yet, but you get the idea. It really is very similar to Firsthouse's quartzite, but mine has more linear striations. The colour is certainly similar.

_MG_8737

_MG_8730

_MG_8728

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clipped on: 03.27.2010 at 06:56 am    last updated on: 03.27.2010 at 06:56 am

RE: Soapstone Counters (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: emmie9999 on 12.11.2007 at 12:50 am in Kitchens Forum

vw, here you go! We were still under construction at this point, so I have a camping lantern in place. These were about 3 hours installed and freshly oiled. When unoiled, you see a lot of mottled pale grey with black splotches and the veining is not so apparent.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Were their prices based on fabricating and shipping, or on sending slabs for DIY? Soapstone prices can go up and down, according to supply availible. Hopefully something will work out for you.

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clipped on: 03.24.2010 at 07:38 am    last updated on: 03.24.2010 at 07:38 am

RE: anyone seen a soapstone sink mixed in with marble counters? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.22.2010 at 09:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yes, I have some pictures too.
~boxer

Jobs026

McCray close up

Soapstone Sink

Stone Craftsman services

Laughing Sun Renovators

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clipped on: 03.23.2010 at 07:11 am    last updated on: 03.23.2010 at 07:42 am

Wow-It's happened to me now...No comments on new kitchen

posted by: beekeeperswife on 03.15.2010 at 12:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm not posting this to get sympathy from you guys but I just had to share. My dh's sister came yesterday to our house. First time she has been there since we started this DIY project. (9 + months ago)

She came in through my garage, walked straight through the new kitchen, put her coat in my family room, and came back in. The only 2 things she said were:
"What is this floor" and "You painted the cabinets, right?" Can you only imagine? Not even a look at the Bianco Antico? How can that happen?

My husband told me not to fret, which I'm not, I'm just kind of surprised since really the kitchen looks nothing like when she saw it last. He reminded me of how non-materialistic she is, which is true. But, geez, her brother and I have been working so hard on this, you would think a simple "wow, it looks so different" could have come out of her mouth.

This is what it looked like last time she was there:
Photobucket

And it looks like this today (with a little more work having been completed since this photo):

Photobucket

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clipped on: 03.15.2010 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 03.15.2010 at 07:45 pm

RE: Finished Conestoga Kitchens? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sabjimata on 03.15.2010 at 04:30 am in Kitchens Forum

We redid our kitchen in our last house with "custom" cabs by a cabinet maker who used Conestoga doors. I thought the quality was wonderful and the door design choices were plenty.

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: my cabs

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clipped on: 03.15.2010 at 08:17 am    last updated on: 03.15.2010 at 08:17 am

RE: Please tell me about your soapstone (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: sw_in_austin on 03.06.2010 at 01:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

An echo of above: Our soapstone is my favorite part of our new kitchen. We've been using it for about 20 months and, even with two teenagers in the house, we've only seen the tiniest of chips and only around the cutout for the undermount sink. Really tiny chips, noticable mostly by feel and not by sight, and I know I've smashed things into that edge and others. We have had a few scratches but I buffed those out with a green scrubby pad. We've never oiled our stone, which is naturally quite dark.

Our stone is Beleza (from Dorado Soapstone in Austin, Texas) and I don't know its talc content but it's quite hard. I can't imagine a better kitchen counter.

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clipped on: 03.14.2010 at 10:25 am    last updated on: 03.14.2010 at 10:25 am

RE: 2 Inch marble throughout, Boxerpups cant find pics you sent (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: boxerpups on 03.13.2010 at 06:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

Okay, I am home now. : )
Here are a few more. But the family wants to watch
a movie together so I only have a little while.
~boxer

This is a gardenweb image. I clipped it. It was just
posted... I can't remember who. It was about white
granite. I think..

And here is a great image showing edges. Boy do I wish
I had this back when I was trying to choose.

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 07:06 pm    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 07:07 pm

98.627% Finished Kitchen - Transitional White Inset w/ glass tile

posted by: theanimala on 01.02.2010 at 03:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

After reading this site daily for 6 months now and getting tons of great advice it's time for us to post our finished kitchen. In keeping with the style of the house we needed to go more modern than traditional, but we didn't want something too contemporary. Also, we couldn't decide on painted or stained cabinets, so we decided to do both by painting the perimeter while having the island stained.

Although we moved no walls, it ended up being a bigger project then we expected as the old tile floor went through our foyer, powder room and laundry room. Also didn't have correct sub-flooring, and we wanted to move some of the appliances around, etc. The reason the it is only 98.627% completed, is we still have 1.373% left to do, such as glass shelves in glass front doors so in cabinet lighting can shine all the way through, etc.

Details:

Cabinets - Inset Shiloh Homestead painted MB Softwhite, Island Maple stained Espresso
Flooring - Tile Fashion Coffee 12 x 24
Countertops - Ceasarstone Raven, Ceasarstone Misty Carrera - Mitred Edge
Main Sink - Franke 33" SS Apron - FHX710-33S
Main Faucet - Generic Costco Brand
Prep Sink - Elkay - ELU1618
Prep Faucet - Danze Como Pulldown
Refrigerator - JennAir CD FD - JFC2089HES
Ovens - Electrolux - EW30EW65GS
Warming Drawer - Electrolux - EW30WD55GS
Microwave - Electrolux - EL27MO45GS
Cooktop - DCS 36" Drop-in - CTD-365
Hood - Bosch - DKE9365AUC
Beverage Center - GE Monogram - ZDBC240NBS
Dishwasher - Bosch
Backsplash - White Glass subway tile from theglassmosiacoutlet.com
Backsplash - Stainless Steel 1x2 tiles
Pulls - TopKnobs - Princetonian
Paint - BM 1542 Himalayan Trek

Before:

Photobucket

After:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Sink Area:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Backsplash:

Photobucket

Island:

Photobucket

Island - Backside:

Photobucket
Pantry Area - Closed:

Photobucket

Pantry - Open:

Photobucket

Lazy Suzan - Corner Pullout:

Photobucket

A big thank you to everyone who gave such great advice over the past few months. If anyone has any questions on what we like /dislike please let us know.

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 11:40 am

RE: Backsplash Help Needed (White Cabinets, Soapstone) (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: boxerpups on 02.18.2010 at 07:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is not soapstone but maybe this is a good idea.
Cococozy Buttler's pantry

Bungalo Bliss used gereen subway in this image

This is a google image for thick marble but notice
the backsplash

Marble4us

Marble4us

RHOMBOID-Italian-White-Carrara-

Liver Learn Invest

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 11:26 am

RE: Soapstone Slab Help (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: maureeninmd on 02.24.2010 at 09:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

I had a terrible time finding soapstone in Maryland when I did my kitchen last year. The only people I could find in the area that knew anything about soapstone were Designer Surfaces in Frederick and Petrafab in Baltimore. I got a very good price from Petrafab and am very, very happy with my soapstone. Petrafab doesn't have much of a website (I think it is a very small operation).

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 11:10 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 11:10 am

RE: Soapstone Slab Help (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 02.24.2010 at 07:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

You are in EXCELLENT HANDS with Siani - I would have NO WORRIES with them...
I know these guys - Reuben is a real GENIUS and has contributed many of his cool
inventions to our Industry - such as the "Reubenator" and other tools that many
Fabricators around the world use.

He is a charter member of the Stone Fabricator's Alliance and is a top notch
Fabricator.

I have seen a number of his completed projects, and you will be very pleased
with Sinai's Quality and Service. I would have no problems recommending Reuben and
Sinai Marble to anyone.....

Unfortunately, Reuben's (like mine and everyone else's) "Stone Stretcher" is not
working right now do to a shortage of parts that are ONLLY produced on the
Islets of Langerhans - and only ship out - once a year - on February 30th -
SO - This is why he's having you look for a larger sized slab.....

Anyways - IMHO - YOU ARE REALLY REALLY GOOD HANDS WITH SINAI !!!

HTH

kevin

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 11:08 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 11:08 am

RE: Soapstone Slab Help (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: amberley on 02.24.2010 at 06:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

I live in Baltimore, and after visiting a few yards in MD in the last 2 years, I determined that the granite/marble yards don't know what they are talking about. Seriously. If you want soapstone, you really should consider getting it from someone who specializes in it. I am going with M. Teixiera in Hackensack NJ. There is also Bucks County in PA and Alberene in VA. One benefit as well is that they are both the suppliers and the fabricators. M. Teix is traveling to me.

And agree, that doesn't seem to be soapstone in the last picture- hope Josh chimes it. My templating is scheduled for next week, and the counters should a week after that. I would be more than happy to show you the finished product when it is done if you are in the area. We are getting Python.

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 11:07 am

RE: Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone (Follow-Up #93)

posted by: katieob on 12.07.2009 at 03:41 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

Drjoann~ The "old, new house" was exactly what I was going for! I'd be glad to talk trim with you when your time comes! So happy our photos resonated with you. Made my day.

These half walls make the corner where kitchen/playroom & family room meet. There is another half wall w/out shelves on the left opening to the family room & one w/ shelves on the right opening to the playroom. Does that make any sense? Excuse the playroom mess & the underenthused model. That corner is his "spot".

Photobucket

Pluckymama & mythreesons~ The paint choices can make your head spin! Manchester Tan & Revere Pewter were on the short list. However, I really wanted more grey than taupe/tan. I tried to give you an idea of the Edgecomb on a dull, winter day today since the kitchen photos were on a bright, sunny day. We did Edgecomb everywhere on the first floor except the Wickham Grey in the family room and BM Abingdon Putty in the dining room (which is not visible from the family room/wickham grey).
Hope I'm making some kind of sense...

Stairway with just natural light (Edgecomb)

Photobucket

Transition from Edgecomb to Abingdon Putty (with only sconce lighting)

Photobucket

ktrud~Undercab lighting is NSL Xenon Task lighting. Good luck!

HTH,
Katie

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 08:21 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 08:21 am

RE: Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone (Follow-Up #58)

posted by: katieob on 12.05.2009 at 09:46 am in Kitchens Forum

Good Morning~

Wow-thank you for your wonderful feedback! It means a lot. We acted as our own GC on this build & had no kitchen designer, so I was really flying by the seat of my pants. We did find an amazing cabinetmaker and I couldn't be happier with his work. I'll reiterate it-this forum was amazingly helpful.

Here are the details below. I will post some more photos of the adjoining rooms and half walls (drjoann) during the week as I unpack & organize. The room with the baskets is the playroom and our carpenter built the built in based on a Pottery Barn Kids picture. Rhome, the area behind the range wall is a mudroom with lockers & cubbies. We moved from a 2 bedroom in the city so I often just wander into the mudroom and stare. LOVE IT.

Any questions or details I miss, please just ask. I'm happy to answer anything.

Ceiling height is 9 and a half feet

Floors: 8 inch heart pine, tung oil & satin finish

Cabinets: Local cabinetmaker. Inset, shaker style with single bead in Ben Moore White Dove

Perimeter Counter: Soapstone (Green Mountain Original)
Island Counter: Calacatta Marble (Honed, 5cm)

Backsplash: Horus Art Tiffany (crackle, bianco)

Pendants: Restoration Hardware Benson (smallest size)

Hardware: Cup pulls are RH Gilmore, pulls are RH Aubrey, latches are Rejuvenation, and ice box latches are Clifside Brass. All are polished nickel.

Stools: Holsag Bulldog in Heritage Walnut (online through cymax.com)

Hood: Modernaire PS 26 (42 inches, 18 inches height)
Contact person was Pat Hartman

Range: Thermador Pro Harmony 36

Microwave: Sharp Drawer

Refrigerator: Sub Zero 42 inch Side by Side

Dishwasher: Fisher & Paykel double drawers

Sink: Shaw's 30 inch

Faucet: Rohl (modern architectural series)

Potfiller: Perrin & Rowe Country series

Thanks for looking!
Katie

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 08:18 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 08:18 am

Finished Kitchen~White, Marble, Soapstone

posted by: katieob on 12.04.2009 at 02:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi all.

A huge thank you to everybody on this forum who helped graciously with advice, photos, experience & info. What an incredible resource this is. Shout outs to Erikanh & marthavila for hood help, willowdecor for tile, all the stoners, and many more.

We moved in last week-bottom trim on fridge & dw are still missing, excuse the messy bottoms.

I'll be happy to provide details if anyone wants them.

Thanks for looking!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Marble Close Up

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Soapstone Close Up

Photobucket

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clipped on: 03.13.2010 at 08:09 am    last updated on: 03.13.2010 at 08:09 am

RE: please look at my estimates! (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: kaismom on 03.11.2010 at 07:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

I did exactly the same recently.

High end showroom cabients came in more than double local small shop custom guy.

I looked at the local small shop kitchen installed last summer. He was using plywood that was not as thick (1/2 in versus 3/4 inch). The finish quality was hugely different. The finish was not wearing well. The highend shop uses Tandembox with stainless for drawer boxes, and the local cheaper guy used 1/2 in birch plywood dovetail (not even hardwood). It just had a completely different feel to the cabinets. The quality was miles apart.

Another brand I looked at was chipping on the edges only a few months after the installation. This is grain matching exoctic wood veneer. I am not sure why but they did not get the cabinets with solid wood edge banding. When I turned down the company, the designer asked my why I went with the competitor, and I told him. He told me that I can ask the company to make it my way, ie solid edge banding, Tandem box etc etc, which will increase the cost (I am sure), and will come very close to the initial price at the high end company.

The expensive company did not even give you the option of having veneer edge banding because they knew that it would not last in the kitchen setting. Everything that they offered were high quality which was tested....

For example, I asked them if the magic corner cabinetry was an option. They do not use them because they don't last in their experience. If I want them, I can't have the warratee that comes with the cabinet hardware.

In the end, I knew exactly what quality of cabinets I would get with the high end shop, so I am going with them. The other companies were basically offering cabinets that were not to my specification. If I increased the specification from their usual, then there are no samples for me to check out since they are not the norm for how these companies make their cabinets. I am buying without seeing the quality.... I am also paying for them to learn how to do a certain level of work, which they are not used to.

If you are saying that the company does mostly commercial work, you are probably looking at slab doors with grain matched veneeer or laminate. By chance, are you looking at Henrybuilt in NYC?


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clipped on: 03.12.2010 at 02:59 pm    last updated on: 03.12.2010 at 02:59 pm

RE: Get signature before giving your sink to fabricators (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jsweenc on 03.06.2010 at 03:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kevin, if you are still read ing, on a thread a while back one poster said this: (don't have the thread link but I copied this particular post into my own file):
But my fabricator used wood strips for reinforcement. Clips, silicone for sealing and wood slats. Either Kevin or vrjames (I can't recall) has posted pics before of the proper way to secure an undermount sink. NOT just silicone! Not just silicone and clips. The wood bracing is what will keep your sink (and bathing baby or thawing turkey!!!) from falling into the cabinet! Search for those pics and ask you fabricator what his method is.

Photobucket
Photobucket

I saw the recent thread on sink setters but didn't get whether this is the same kind of thing or not. What would be overkill?

From what I've heard, I am expecting to hear "Never heard of it before". (I heard that yesterday from a fabricator about people wanting to come pick out their particular slab of whatever they are getting. Couldn't believe it. Won't be using that company,)


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clipped on: 03.07.2010 at 06:56 am    last updated on: 03.07.2010 at 06:57 am

RE: Computers in Kitchens (anyone have pics) (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sonaliagrawal on 01.24.2010 at 03:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

Oooh, do you mind sharing what is this "great app for recipes" that you have and like ? :)


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clipped on: 03.04.2010 at 07:28 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2010 at 07:28 pm

RE: toaster oven in cabinet (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: smarge on 02.10.2010 at 12:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's mine. Note, we recessed this portion about 4" into the wall to allow the doors to close without having a bump-out into the kitchen counter space.

Appliance garage (recessed)

interior measurement 17 inches

Photobucket

See the tape above? That's where the fabricator had to put a seam. The maroons actually left that back piece completely out of the installation! Imagine my surprise when I went to put my toaster oven away and saw a 4" hole in the back of the space!


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clipped on: 03.04.2010 at 07:16 pm    last updated on: 03.04.2010 at 07:16 pm

Vote! Marble or white tile/dark grout backsplash? (pic heavy)

posted by: honeysucklevine on 02.28.2010 at 03:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Vote:

Marble or white tile / dark grout backsplash???????

*If marble, then carerra or calcutta gold?
*If white tile, then beveled or nonbeveled?
*Is best tile size 4x8, 6x8, 3x6, etc?
*Visible or invisible grout?
(Lots of pictures below.)

Sketch of kitchen. White hood, white cabinets, wood floor, white range (neutral whites), black stone countertop, paint probably a warm off white (I made it yellow in the sketch to see it but it won't be yellow in real life).

Photobucket

Hood will look like this in white. No vertical bands.
Photobucket

Those things above the windows in the sketch are woodwork with crown that goes to ceiling like in traci's kitchen below:
Photobucket

Here are some kitchens with white tile and dark grout. (The 1st and 2nd picture are from a kitchen with beveled tile.)

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Marble backsplashes:
Carrera with visible grout.
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Carrera with invisible grout
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Calcutta gold with invisible grout
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Calcutta gold with visible grout
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Unknown marble with invisible grout
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Thanks for voting!!

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clipped on: 02.28.2010 at 07:33 pm    last updated on: 03.03.2010 at 08:56 pm

RE: Shelf above sink window or Wood Valence to match cabinets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kateskouros on 02.25.2010 at 11:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

i've seen less than a handful of valances i thought were done well. they seem a bit too superfluous to me. but open shelves i love! they provide an opportunity to do something beyond the expected.

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clipped on: 02.27.2010 at 06:30 am    last updated on: 02.27.2010 at 06:30 am

RE: Building a bench/banquette - help with dimensions? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: wi-sailorgirl on 02.26.2010 at 12:19 am in Kitchens Forum

Mine is backless (against the wall) so I didn't have to deal with the angle. I'll be adding throw pillows which aren't finished yet. My bench is 22 inches deep, which is a pretty deep seat, but once I get the pillows in there I think it will be perfect. I'm envisioning this as sort of a place to curl up on a Sunday morning with a big cup of coffee and the paper so I was really looking for comfort.

It is about 16 inches high with a 4-inch cushion.

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clipped on: 02.26.2010 at 07:59 am    last updated on: 02.26.2010 at 07:59 am

RE: Rev-a-Shelf turntable. (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: buehl on 02.20.2010 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

Where is this "turntable" being installed?

Is this a lazy/super susan shelf? For a corner susan cabinet? Something else? Base cabinet or upper cabinet?

Is this for a new cabinet installation or retro-fitting an existing, installed cabinet?

This information is needed for any useful advice one way or the other...


In the world of corner susans, there are pros & cons to both models.

With a center-pole susan (usually called a "lazy susan"), the shelves are attached to the center pole and there are no other shelves...so this means the entire interior is free to rotate. What this means is that you can have a door that's attached to the shelves that will then rotate inside the susan when in use...i.e., no door (single or two-piece hinged together) to open and bang against the cabinets on either side or get in the way. You don't have to have a door attached, but you can if you want to. The con, however, is that the center pole does take up space in the middle of the shelves.

With corner susans without a center pole (a.k.a., "super susans"), each rotating/turntable shelf sits on a stationary shelf (the turntable is attached to that stationary shelf) and rotates "in-place" on top of that stationary shelf. Because of the stationary shelf, you cannot have doors attached to the shelves and, therefore, must have a door that swings open. However, the big advantage here is that you have no center pole to not only take up room but to limit the size of something on the shelf...you can put something as large as the entire shelf on it if you want to.

Which is stronger or will last longer? Good question! Common sense says the "Super Susan".

However, my 13-year old "Lazy Susan" in my old kitchen worked as well the day we demolished the kitchen as the day it was installed...no sticking, no sagging, etc. It was still "perfect" and I really liked the fact that the door rotated into the cabinet and did not bang against the cabinets or get in the way when using it. These cabinets were builder-grade cabinets and were rated the worst by Consumer Reports at that time (AristroKraft). Everything else started failing/falling apart on those cabinets around year 7 or 8 (best guess...but it was several years b/f we redid the kitchen)...but that susan kept going and going...

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clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 05:11 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 05:12 pm

RE: Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it. (Follow-Up #124)

posted by: icycold on 12.26.2008 at 12:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

The grill on our BlueStar 48" RNB Range. It is very difficult to keep clean if you cook a lot. It does not get hot enough to sear steaks. The gas oven has also been inconsistent and is diffcult to bake in and above 400 degrees the handles get to hot to touch. But I should also add that the six burners are great. The two SuperNova's really crank out the BTU's!

Everything else in our 4 yo kitchen is great. SZ's, WD, huge Herbeau farmhouse sink, 2 Miele Incognitos, limestone tops, only two glass paneled uppers for display, under and over cabinet lighting, and panels on everything except stove and MW. I used this forum a ton when we were building to help make the decisions. In fact I came back to lookup our garbage/recycling bin cabinet with the foot pedal. We have the Double Waste Bins from Hafele. After four years of heavy use (I mean torture) the kick pedal broke on Christmas. $57.42 to replace it is so worth it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Hafele waste bins & kick pedal @ kitchensource.com

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clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 04:53 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 04:53 pm

RE: Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it. (Follow-Up #111)

posted by: luisa_at_home on 08.22.2008 at 05:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

Don't order easy retrofits from the cabinet company! Things like pull-out towel rack under sink or stainless caddy, drawer organizers etc. can be purchased for much less from companies like rev-a-shelf or Hafele usually for much less.

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clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 04:49 pm

RE: Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it. (Follow-Up #72)

posted by: buehl on 10.17.2007 at 02:02 am in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if this is the one Susan has, but Rev-A-Shelf has several sizes/materials:

Prem. Sgl Trash Pull-Out 35QT WH
Prem. Sgl Trash Pull-Out 32QT SS
Prem. Sgl Trash Pull-Out 50 QT WH
Prem. Sgl Trash Pull-Out 50QT Silver

The link below is for the first one...

Here is a link that might be useful: PREM. SGL TRASH PULL-OUT 35QT

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clipped on: 02.20.2010 at 04:38 pm    last updated on: 02.20.2010 at 04:38 pm

YesRE: Backsplash Help (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: kimmieb on 01.14.2010 at 11:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks everyone for great answers.

Earthpal and Lurkiirish tell me more... can you post some examples of what types of mosiacs or other backsplashes please. I am not good with the details part. Can't' visual things...

I would have loved to continue the slab but, another slab wasn't in the budget.

megpie Datile plain brick subway is definitely something I am considering but, since that is the safe bet, I wanted to see what you creative people came up with on this wonderful forum. The issue I have with the brick pattern is that this kitchen is long and the uppers are not very high up. I was thinking that a brick pattern might make it even more horizontal looking? Does that make sense. Like bring it down to look even small under there?/

I got some marble subway from Home Depot but, the irregular patterns bothered me. Don't want to spend an arm and a leg. On an unlimited budget i would put in Ann Sacks crackle tile and am considering the Rixi tile that so many are talking about on here lately. Haven't seen it in person.

I found the puffy basketweave on Ebay and ordered a sample. It is pretty and I was thinking it would add some depth. Forgot about cleaning it though. You are right. Maybe I could use something different on the back of the stove area.

I want to do something right there where the stove is because it is so small but, as this is DIY and I can't spend money right now, I'm going to live with it as is and add a vent hood somehow and new cooktop when budget allows.

It's hard working around what you have and not starting over with the dream kitchen. Alas, the architects plans and the decorate are all not in the picture anymore for all sorts of reasons. Oh to have that money back I spent on the architect (but that's another story)
Here are some inspiration pics but, I have no idea what type or brand of tile they are. Any guesses or thoughts on these?

So many choices I get overwhelmed.

#1
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#2 or perhaps mini subway brick ??
backsplash

#3 check this one out (yeah right but, isn't this fine?)
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#4 Anyone know how this is done? Pretty cool
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# five How about this tile? What is it?

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clipped on: 02.19.2010 at 07:05 am    last updated on: 02.19.2010 at 07:06 am

RE: Where does your stand mixer live? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: segbrown on 02.15.2010 at 09:48 am in Kitchens Forum

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clipped on: 02.17.2010 at 07:43 am    last updated on: 02.17.2010 at 07:44 am

RE: noisy wolf induction (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: baver on 02.16.2010 at 02:25 pm in Appliances Forum

Possible electro-magnetic interference? Some CFLs have magnetic ballasts which can cause interference as do some dimmers for low voltage lighting.

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clipped on: 02.17.2010 at 06:45 am    last updated on: 02.17.2010 at 06:46 am

RE: Start off the New Year with Backsplash Help (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: malhgold on 02.02.2010 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

At this point, I'm leaning towards 3X6 subway tile, but stacked instead of brick style. I'm concerned that a full wall of white tile laid brick style would be too much with the fireplace wall.

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I also saw a fabulous pic(which of course I can't find now) of an installation of this oval tile from Heath Ceramics just behind a range. I would do it all horizontally. Thoughts??

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And then there is this Ann Sacks tile, but in white. However, if the price is correct, it's not even a consideration.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ann Sacks

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clipped on: 02.14.2010 at 11:40 am    last updated on: 02.14.2010 at 11:40 am

The best hummus I've ever had

posted by: shaun on 02.11.2010 at 08:41 pm in Cooking Forum

I went out to dinner last night to a Greek place nearby. They served chunky hummus with warm pita bread sprinkled with what looked like Parmesan cheese.

This hummus - was absolutely the best I've ever had in my life.

Today I emailed the restaurant asking for their recipe. The chef wrote me back and I'm in shock at how simple this recipe is.

I made some tonight and it tastes just as good as what I ate at the restaurant!

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2 cups of Chick peas, rinsed & drained well
1/8 cup olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons of minced garlic
Pinch of salt & pepper
Method:
In mixing bowl... combine all ingredients and "smash" with a wooden spoon or with a hand mixer "slow speed" until a "chunky" texture.

*note* I used my potato masher.

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clipped on: 02.12.2010 at 05:45 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2010 at 05:46 pm

RE: Under Cabinet Lights (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: davidr on 04.18.2007 at 06:11 pm in Lighting Forum

Halogen, xenon, etc. are just different flavors of incandescent lamps. The difference between one incandescent lamp and another is really just a matter of degree. They all produce heat as their main product. The light is secondary. Some produce a little more light, some a little whiter light, some last a bit longer; but none is very good at providing light efficiently without melting your chocolate chips in the cabinet above.

If you want cooler, more efficient undercabinet lighting, T4 or T5 fluorescent is a better option. Specify electronic ballast and 3000K CT, 82+ CRI lamps for a pleasant light which will blend with incandescents.

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clipped on: 02.12.2010 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2010 at 05:30 pm

RE: Need under cabinet lighting help ASAP (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jen_o on 02.11.2010 at 06:12 pm in Lighting Forum

We were initially going to with xenon undercabinet lighting as well, but I didn't want to see the fixtures hanging down. We just ordered Environmental Lights for our kitchen remodel thanks to piaa's post. We spent quite a bit more than I thought we would by going this route (vs something basic from Home Depot or Lowe's), but I think the low profile (0.6"), low heat, and low energy usage will be worth the extra money. Plus, they are dimmable from a switch on the wall and the sales person, Bruce, was very helpful!

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clipped on: 02.12.2010 at 05:26 pm    last updated on: 02.12.2010 at 05:26 pm

RE: Super Susan - what did you learn not to put there? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jeri on 02.10.2010 at 05:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

I *love* my Susan. It holds more than any other cabinet except perhaps a walk-in pantry. Mine does have the wider opening I think this makes a *big* difference.

What is in mine? Lets see Food processor, blender, hand mixer, mini-chopper (never use should purge), mixing bowels, stacked baking casseroles & lids, juicer, pitcher, Im sure there is more. I find that lifting even the heavy items to be easy with the larger opening just lift straight up no digging for anything.

I have never lost anything in my Susan and wonder how it is possible as there is *very* little room around the shelves.

I also find storage for my cooling racks on the bottom below the bottom shelf. Cookie sheets would fit here as well, but I store those in another location.

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 07:28 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 07:28 pm

RE: Do you have marble or white granite behind cooktop (backsplas (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: lagrant on 12.15.2009 at 11:22 am in Kitchens Forum

I have a calacatta marble backsplash with no staining either. I don't baby it and use my 6 burner gas all the time for a family of 7. I seal it every 6-8 months and so far ZERO issues. Wouldn't change a THING!! HTH!!

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 01:05 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 01:05 pm

RE: Do you have marble or white granite behind cooktop (backsplas (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: firsthouse_mp on 12.14.2009 at 08:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks rm...that's good news for me since we are going with a slab backsplash too. I have been following the thread about the SS backsplash wondering if if that would be a more durable material, but glad to hear yours is fine!

Still wondering if I should opt for the 5" back rim like this, to protect the marble/granite:

From Misc photos

....was hoping the whole thing would be flush to the counter with no detachable SS backsplash:
From Misc photos

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 01:03 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 01:03 pm

RE: If marble subway backsplash tile, will honed stain too easily (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bill_vincent on 01.22.2010 at 08:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you use tumbled marble, you won't see any etching, short of splashing battery acid on it. That's one of the biggest reasons it's so popular as a backsplash material.

Also, one correction to something granite girl said:

Honed or not all backsplash tiles - especially stones should be sealed.

With one exception (crackle glaze tile), ONLY stone should be sealed. Not ceramic.

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 12:56 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 12:56 pm

RE: Please Show Me Your White Backsplash (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: alku05 on 09.06.2008 at 03:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Well, mine is mostly white:

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My DH insisted on a white backsplash, and as you can see, I pushed the limit as far as possible.

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 12:49 pm    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 12:49 pm

RE: Need to start looking for a chandelier (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: remodelfla on 02.09.2010 at 10:39 pm in Kitchens Forum

If you go to any of the lighting online stores, they have really good filters. You may not find exactly what you want (though there are thousands to choose from) but you'll at least find an idea of what you keep coming back to. Try bellacor, csn lighting, lighting universe to name a few.

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clipped on: 02.10.2010 at 09:13 am    last updated on: 02.10.2010 at 09:13 am