Clippings by garycinchicago

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

PaulinCt, lets see your fine fescue

posted by: gryd on 10.22.2008 at 05:17 pm in Lawn Care Forum

Hi Paul,

How'd you make out with your fine fescue planting. Mine came in, then struggled with a bit of fungus here and there. I got nervous that it wouldn't survive the shade being so immature but it seems to have strengthened. I planted in early August. Here's a recent pic(Day 62):

Photobucket

50% Firefly Hard Fescue and 50% Fortitude Creeping Red Fescue

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 11:44 pm

RE: thin grass areas around tree (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: billhill on 10.22.2008 at 09:30 am in Lawn Care Forum

The area around your maple is definitely and will always be a problem area in your lawn. You are on the right track with your organic feedings. All problem areas in your lawn should receive annual topdressing with compost. Mulch mow as many autumn leaves into this lawn without smothering. Type of grass planted in shady areas is very important. A blend of fine fescues consisting of 1/3 hard, chewings and creeping red is recommended. All trees should have a mulch ring around them extending at least half way to the drip-line. Mulch that ring heavily with fallen leaves. Turf competing with tree roots for water and nutrients will need sufficient quantities of both to be healthy. Having a fine lawn under your maple is challenging but can be accomplished. Below is a pic of my fine fescue around a sugar maple. If possible, start a compost pile and begin making your own "black gold"

Bill Hill

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.22.2008 at 11:44 pm    last updated on: 10.22.2008 at 11:44 pm

RE: POA really showing up now, pulling by hand (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: eriocaulon on 10.10.2008 at 01:13 pm in Lawn Care Forum

I am in Ohio zone 5 and am enjoying 60-70 degree (high) days right now. In the past, I've put down winterizer either last week in October or first week in November. Right now, my lawn is looking great...but I always fret over the poa annua that I have only in selective areas--just don't want it get away from me next year. I thought I was doing great one year and did not put down fall pre-m--next year it was bad...

diclemeg. If you feel you want to try etho this year, do it NOW so you can get at least two application in and maybe you'll get some winter kill. Of course, your poa annua may have developed past the 4 leaf stage making them hard to kill. Since poa constrictor is about the same as nortron (% etho suspension) i believe, here is what I do. I put 1/4 oz in a 2 gallon sprayer and that is good for about 400 sq.ft--this concentration is for KBG. I make followup applications every 3 weeks. You want to avoid cutting the lawn or watering/rain for several days after so it can absorb. Drench as much leaf surface as possible (it absorbs in the leaf and doesn't move much) so make sure your sprayer tip is clean and is a good sprayer. I've replaced all the spray guns that came with my sprayers with high quality ones I got from Tractor Supply.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 10.10.2008 at 08:46 pm    last updated on: 10.10.2008 at 08:47 pm

Built my first cattle panel arch trellis today!

posted by: bencjedi on 06.11.2007 at 10:58 pm in Vertical Gardening Forum

All for less than $30 in supplies!
It took over 4 hours to dig the holes for the T-posts. One post especially was very very difficult to dig because a rock the size of those boogie boards at the beach ominously gave zero option for pole placement. I had to bust it up with a sledge hammer before I could dig. I also broke two shovels including one I bought at Lowes Sunday that touted 'Best shovel in the world'. Split it halfway down the spade! The girls behind the return counter busted out laughing, but refunded the money. I was more careful finishing the job. ;)

I planted cucumbers and snap peas this evening. I left a corner spot for potentially a melon of sorts. I could use the other side of the trellis, but am too worm out to do anything for tilling. I think a raised bed on that side would be considerably easier to create.. possibly all the way to the rear of my stockade fence. For now I may just put potted tomato plants there and train them up that side.

Please let me know what you all think.

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.12.2008 at 01:18 am    last updated on: 05.12.2008 at 01:19 am

Certainty herbicide for Poa Trivialis

posted by: subywu on 05.06.2007 at 11:57 am in Lawn Care Forum

Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) made by Monsanto is a selective herbicide for control of annual and perennial sedge, grass and broadleaf weeds. In particular, it has post-emergent control over POA TRIVIALIS and POA ANNUA (to a lesser amt). Some university sites do mention Certainty and preliminarily report favorable results for poa trivialis control. It also can be used on warm season and cool season grasses.

Unlike Prograss which is hideously expensive, Certainty is only "very expensive". 1.25 oz of product is $100-130. From what I gather, this is enough to treat 1 acre. However, if you only need to mix enough for spot spraying affected areas, potentially this amount could last for a few years!

In any case, I urge you all to check it out and let us know what you think. I may try to get some for use this fall. If I spend $100 and use it over 3 years, that is worth it to me if it produces results. I know many of us are battling poa trivialis and are losing the battle!

Monsanto info on Certainty: Monsanto information

Ebay Source: Ebay source

Lesco Source: Lesco Source

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 05.02.2008 at 12:30 am    last updated on: 05.02.2008 at 12:30 am

RE: Please Advise me on a Lawn Tractor (Follow-Up #38)

posted by: marineguy on 01.19.2008 at 11:31 am in Tractors Forum

3acres,
I'm an advocate of purchasing a used heavy-duty GT for the same cost of a new mid-grade riding mower ($2000-$3000). There isn't much of a selection on the Internet right now in your neck of the woods, but if you hire the lawn care service in the meantime, then take your time browsing craigslist and eBay through the spring, you should be able to find a nice candidate.

Here are some recommendations for you among the recently discontinued line of John Deere garden tractors (2-5 years old):
Good: GT225/235/245 series, $1500-2500, features a heavy-duty transaxle, twin-touch hydrostatic pedals, big tires, can run a tiller, snowblowers fairly easy to find online in good shape for $500 or less.
Better: GX series, $2500-3500, add a locking differential, power steering, hydraulic deck lift
Best: X series (now known as X700 series), $6000-10000, optional four-wheel-steer, or four-wheel-drive, front-end-loader, 3-pt hitch and rear PTO available.

In the lineup before that (90s), you had:
Good: 245/265, $1000-1500, hydrostatic but with controls mounted on fender, next to manual lift lever. Attachments are same as GT200 series.
Better: 285, $1500-2000, bigger engine + hydraulic lift.
Best: 425/435/445, $2000-4000, four-wheel steer option, 3 pt hitch available, front end loader available, much heavier tractor + attachments. Two-spool hydraulics allow use of power lift/ power angle snow blade.

And in the lineup before that (80s), which you're probably less inclined to purchase (due to their age and your aversion to turning wrenches):
Good: 210/212/214/216 series, $700-1500, benefit is a rear-lift rod which did not make it into later series, allows simple use of a sleeve hitch, lifting plows, cultivators, blade, with the tractor's deck lift system. Manual lift but electric was available.
Better: 300 series $1000-2500, 318 very common, had dual hydraulics, 3 pt hitch available, hydrostatic transmission, shaft driven. Great tractor. Parts hard to find for the Onan 18hp motor, however.
Best: 400 series, $2000-3000, larger frame, HI/LO range transaxle, loader, 3 pt available. Chances of finding one that wasn't used to its dying breath: about 10%.

Here's a 318 for sale in your area which appears to have been meticulously restored both cosmetically and mechanically. But you said you aren't into tinkering. This might be a good starter tractor for you to use while the lawn service bears the burden of turning long grass into short grass.

You can count on the fact that each of these models will be for sale at some point on eBay this spring, when people start thinking about cutting grass again. If you really want to buy new, I'd recommend the X500 series, which is better than the GT series but not as good as the GX series.

Like lkbum, I could pay someone to take care of my lawn, but that's my time to unwind, and incite childhood dreams of being a heavy equipment operator (especially when the blade or tiller are installed). He must have a much smoother lawn than me because whenever I put a beer in the cupholder it goes flat almost instantly. I've had much better luck with Beam and Coke, which is still good when the bubbles are gone. I, too, have been known to finish my lawn and keep on mowing through the neighbor's lawn, just because I'm in the mood. I don't know what gives me more satisfaction, enjoying/admiring my lawn or maintaining it.

Congrats on purchasing the new castle.

-Chris

Here is a link that might be useful: 318

NOTES:

<none>
clipped on: 02.14.2008 at 11:37 pm    last updated on: 02.14.2008 at 11:38 pm