Clippings by galleycook

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RE: Best advice from this forum (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: dmlove on 07.18.2007 at 04:25 pm in Kitchens Forum

Amy, now you need to get one of these to fill the hole (can you see it? It's a black plastic grommet - they come in all shapes and sizes:

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desk idea 2
clipped on: 04.28.2010 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2010 at 08:53 pm

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: buffalotina on 12.18.2009 at 01:17 am in Kitchens Forum

I installed CSN lighting Xenon strips. The light is lovely from them. They do get a tad warm when on high for a long time, but nothing ridiculous. I want to add though that even with a hi/lo toggle I used a dimmer and that way you are able to dim to a considerably lower level than the toggle does. Also, you don't have to go to each light individually to dim them. I second the suggestion to put a switch at more than one location: I have switches controlling the undercabs and the main lights at both the main entry to the kitchen and the exit door to the dining room so I can dim/control the lights as I got to the dinner table to join guests.

Best of luck!

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lighting
clipped on: 12.18.2009 at 05:34 am    last updated on: 12.18.2009 at 05:34 am

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: akchicago on 12.17.2009 at 12:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know anything about the xenon lighting specifically at Lowe's, but I wanted to give you a few tips about xenon undercabinet lighting. I do not like pucks. They leave circles of light on your countertop, while strips shed more even light. Also, I would get strips that are hardwired, not plug-in, so that you don't have unsightly cords and plugs, and since your electrician will be doing the electrical work anyway. Also, the strips should be installed toward the front of your upper cabinets, not toward the rear. If you install the strips toward the rear, you will mostly be shedding light on your backsplash, rather than on your countertop. Installation toward the front will light your countertop. I would also have the switch for the xenons be a dimmer switch. The dimmer costs a bit more than a regular switch, about $45, but it is nice to have the flexibility to dim or brighten the light depending on whether you want task lighting or mood lighting. Note that low-voltage xenons require dimmers specifically for low-voltage lighting. They are easily available at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

My xenon strips do not get hot at all. I believe that is because I chose a style that is open, so the bulbs are open to the air, rather than enclosed with a plastic or glass cover. However, the less expensive xenon strips may all come with a cover, I don't know.

HTH.

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lighting
clipped on: 12.18.2009 at 05:31 am    last updated on: 12.18.2009 at 05:31 am

RE: Xenon undercabinet lights from Lowe's? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: iceqween13 on 12.17.2009 at 11:56 am in Kitchens Forum

We installed the Lowes Xenon about 2 months ago and we LOVE them. They are the strips and the light swivels a bit so you can direct it. They have 2 settings - high and low. They are excellent and what a good price! Our electrician was very impressed with them. He hardwired them in so that they can turn off on one switch. Hope I'm making sense on this - not good at explaining.

We put one under each cabinet - I'll post photos of our finished kitchen on the weekend (first time!). We put in 18" Xenons under the 24" cabinets; and I think 10" ones under the 12" cabinets. I would go with undercabinet lights all the way around if you don't have recessed. You will like them.

I think the strips give a more even light instead of the pucks.

Good luck with your lighting!
Maria

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lighting
clipped on: 12.18.2009 at 05:30 am    last updated on: 12.18.2009 at 05:30 am

RE: Custom doors for IKEA cabinets? Has anyone done this? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: linley1 on 02.17.2008 at 11:34 am in Kitchens Forum

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Cabinets
clipped on: 11.21.2009 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 11.21.2009 at 10:31 am

RE: More questions on knobs and pulls (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: laurie_2008 on 05.12.2008 at 01:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's some info I copied & pasted below. I'm also attaching a link that may be helpful, as well.
Installation:
There are no set rules for placement of knobs or pulls. They may be thought of as artistic accents as well as functional pieces. Still, their placement can be crucial to the overall integration of the cabinetry plan. When placed with care a knob should blend into its context. Poorly placed knobs disrupt the aesthetic balance of an otherwise well-proportioned kitchen.

Most new cabinetry is traditional in design, but sometimes in an effort to be trendy, designers try placing knobs in non-traditional places. When deciding on their placement there are some caveats that should be remembered:

Cabinet Doors:
Whenever possible, avoid placing knobs on a center panel. A veneered panel will not be as strong as the wood frame surrounding it.

Drawer Fronts:
Generally a single knob or pull is used on drawers under eighteen inches wide, while drawers over eighteen inches call for either two knobs or two pulls. Drawers over 24" wide should have two knobs/pulls to prevent the drawer from twisting when pulled. For visual continuity, pulls or knobs should be installed on false front drawer fronts as well.

To position a drawer handle successfully, first determine it's visual center of mass (the absolute center od the pull). A knob's center of mass will be the mounting screw.

As a general rule, If a drawer is wide enough to need two knobs/pulls, each should be centered about 1/6th of the drawer length from the edge of the drawer and positioned slightly above center.

Installtion diagram for drawer handle Placement of Multiple Drawer Pulls:
Length 6 = center of knob/pull
Using this formula, if the the drawer is 24 inches wide, the middle of the pull should be 4 inches from the outside edge of the drawer front.

In some cases it is impossible to place a handle at the optimum height because of such things as cross banding or overcrowding on a narrow upper drawer. In these instances the eye is generally forgiving.

Bail handles derive more of their visual mass from the rosettes than do plate handles where the bail is recessed on a field of brass. This means a rosette handle will be placed a little lower than a plate handle whose mass is mostly a function of the backplate. The goal in all cases is to mount the handle so that the center of mass is slightly above the centerline of the drawer front. The deeper the drawer front the higher the handle should be placed above the centerline.

Don't forget that the thickness of the door or drawer must be considered when ordering screws to make certain that the proper length screw is purchased.

In replacing a pull, the old one should be used to measure the new one. Remember to measure from the center to center of each screw (not the length of the pull) to determine the size pull needed. If the old holes will be patched, or if a backplate will be used, size will be flexible; but don't forget that the holes go all the way through, so that the plate it won't cover them on the inside. If this matters, a second plate may be needed.

It's always best to leave hardware installation to professionals who will accept responsibility for their alignment. These experts use special jigs to assure a proper match across the cabinets, which is extremely important visually.

A cabinet can only be drilled once and it must be perfect the first time; if a hole is drilled wrong, the only way to repair it is to cover the hole with a backplate and start over. But that means that every other cabinet in the kitchen will require a matching backplate. And don't forget that once drilled, the cabinet cannot be returned.

Here is a link that might be useful: General Rules and Guidelines

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cabinet knobs
clipped on: 11.20.2009 at 07:36 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2009 at 07:36 pm

RE: Hardwood flooring under appliances? Very confused (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: kaseki on 11.14.2009 at 12:12 pm in Appliances Forum

Although some flooring, like cherry, is relatively stable with temperature and humidity (albeit soft), others aren't as stable. In most cases there should be a little room for the floor to expand. Normally this occurs under the base molding along the walls. If hardwood is run to plywood, there may be a gap between them sometimes, and there may be excessive pressure there other times.

Some plywoods give more than others, but the plywood under a heavy appliance should be voidless plywood intended for laminate floor underlay. (Cabinet grade plywood might be ok.) I think it is easier to run the wood to the walls than fit it to plywood.

Engineered floating floors, however, are probably not suitable for heavy appliances and plywood would be needed regardless.

For my cherry hardwood floor, I use two pieces of quarter-inch thick hardwood plywood (Haldex) under the refrigerator along the sides where the wheels are, with a thin strip of aluminum on top of each piece to spread the load. This keeps the refrigerator from sinking into the floor.

To minimize water damage I recommend using leak sensors under refrigerators and other locations where leaks are possible. These can be of the type used to shut off water sources, or the type that just alarm. Getting plywood wet instead of hardwood wet is not a lot more desirable.

kas

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clipped on: 11.15.2009 at 11:38 am    last updated on: 11.15.2009 at 11:38 am

RE: Hardwood flooring under appliances? Very confused (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: judeny on 11.13.2009 at 07:54 pm in Appliances Forum

You would install ply instead of hardwood and it would be level with the hardwood. Yes, it would go under the run of cabinets containing a water source (dw, fridge with icemaker, etc). It is essential to poly the ply with more than one coat. Again, the reason for it is not to protect the hardwood floor it is to detect leaks sooner that if the leak were on hardwood and seeping between the cracks. Even well finished and climate controlled, the wood expands and contracts seasonally creating openings between the boards.

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clipped on: 11.15.2009 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 11.15.2009 at 11:37 am

RE: Hardwood flooring under appliances? Very confused (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: judeny on 11.11.2009 at 10:53 pm in Appliances Forum

In a perfect world you would install 3/4" ply under the appliances that are near a water source at the same time as 3/4" wood is installed everywhere else and then polyurethane it all with an extra coat on the ply.

I read here (5 years ago) that the reason to use ply under the appliances is that the heat from the appliances will cause the hardwood to shrink and create gaps - if there is a leak the water could seep through the floor for a while before you discover it. A leak would puddle on the ply and you would notice it sooner. Either way you have water damage to deal with.

I did it on my fridge, sink, dishwasher section. The hardwood has to go a bit under the appliances/water-source cabinets so the ply doesn't show so you'd still need to find a way to protect the floor.

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clipped on: 11.15.2009 at 11:36 am    last updated on: 11.15.2009 at 11:36 am

RE: Hardwood flooring under appliances? Very confused (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: weedmeister on 11.11.2009 at 05:50 pm in Appliances Forum

People will argue this both ways. You are right to be fearful of ruining the floors dragging the heavy appliances and cabinets over them if you put the floor down first. But putting the flooring down last can be a problem if the appliances ever have to be moved for servicing.

I think the best approach is to put down plywood under the cabinets and appliances the same thickness as the flooring. That way every thing is at the correct height. You don't need whole sheets, shims under the cabinets and such will do.

IMHO.

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clipped on: 11.15.2009 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 11.15.2009 at 11:34 am