Clippings by gale1965

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Is there an online deck planner OTHER than Home Depot?

posted by: gale1965 on 05.22.2014 at 02:56 am in Porches & Decks Forum

When I try to use Home Depot's deck planner I get this: The display adapter found in this computer does not meet the minimum requirements. This computer must be upgraded with a newer nVidia or ATI video card.

My computer is less than a year old and has a standard Intel HD graphics card with the most recent drivers. My previous computer also had an Intel card. I've never had a single program, even graphics-heavy programs, not work with my graphics card. I'm not sure why this deck planner does not since I've used sketchup and various online kitchen planners with my computer with no problem whatsoever. I use the full version of photoshop and my kids play very graphic-intensive games with no problems. There is no way I'm paying for an upgraded card for this.

So anyway I'm hoping there's another planner that will work for me. Home Depot is the only local place to buy the supplies but I swear I'm tempted to drive out of town because this whole deck planner thing is driving me bats.

thanks! :)

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clipped on: 05.22.2014 at 02:57 am    last updated on: 05.22.2014 at 02:57 am

Question for delta touch2o faucet owners

posted by: gale1965 on 04.04.2014 at 11:04 am in Kitchens Forum

We just had our Delta Addison Touch2O faucet installed but I forgot to tell him that I wanted the handle forward. How involved is it to do this myself? The faucet is fully installed. I remembered right after the installer left, naturally. Do I just need to loosen the one brass nut under the center faucet part, twist the faucet and tighten it again? I know the hot/cold will be backwards but I can swap out the supply lines at the valves (if my family can't deal with it being backwards). Thanks :)
Gale

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clipped on: 04.04.2014 at 11:07 am    last updated on: 04.04.2014 at 11:07 am

3" cabinet filler with a pullout-but next to the stove

posted by: gale1965 on 11.12.2013 at 09:28 pm in Kitchens Forum

In our cabinets we will have a 3" gap (can be up to 3.5") between the slide in range and the cabinet next to it. The kitchen guy at the local home center said the usable fillers he can get have to have another cabinet on both sides of the gap and a plain filler (not usable) is the only way we can go. I'm sure I've seen narrow pull out cabinets next to stoves in pictures online. Is there one that will work for this? Our cabinets are just standard oak so matching it close shouldn't be a big problem, and they are standard size otherwise.

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clipped on: 11.12.2013 at 09:29 pm    last updated on: 11.12.2013 at 09:29 pm

How do you 'shave' the raised edge on a laminate countertop?

posted by: gale1965 on 11.10.2013 at 01:24 am in Kitchens Forum

We are thinking about getting a slide in range but our countertop is formica and has a raised 'drip' edge. It seems to be about 1/8" or so high and maybe an inch front to back. Anyway all of the instructions for slide in ranges I've seen say that this raised edge needs to be shaved in order for the overhang of the range to fit. What kind of tools would one use to shave this? Is there a certain technique? Tips?

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clipped on: 11.10.2013 at 01:24 am    last updated on: 11.10.2013 at 01:24 am

How much to leave between cabinets for a freestanding range?

posted by: gale1965 on 11.07.2013 at 08:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

We are having to do some fixes ourselves because we can't find anyone that can do it within the next few months. What we are doing is removing the entire countertop and then taking the center cabinet out of a wall and putting a freestanding range in there. The cabinet that is currently on the right will be removed and the one in the center will be moved to the right. We'll be buying new countertop for this project. So anyway how far apart do the cabinets need to be? The stove will be a 30" standard one but we haven't bought one yet. One I just looked at says it is 29.9" wide so is a 30" space enough? Or does it need to be a bit bigger? Also, would the countertops measure flush to the cabinets? In other words if the a cabinet is exactly 30" wide would the countertop also be exactly 30"? The one on the right is not going to be against a wall so that one will overhang a little but the one on the left will be against a wall. I can take a picture if necessary.

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clipped on: 11.07.2013 at 08:36 pm    last updated on: 11.07.2013 at 08:36 pm

Where should I put paper towels and other nooks?

posted by: CT_Newbie on 10.26.2013 at 12:28 am in Kitchens Forum

So, the cabinets have been installed and I'm wondering about little details. Where should I keep the paper towels? If anything, I tend to use them for wiping up food on the floor and only occasional hand drying. The farm sink means that the cabinets below are lower than usual so I think it would be awkward to put them under the sink.

I didn't have room on the island for a nook. And I don't think there's space in the dummy drawer in front of the prep sink and certainly wouldn't want the sink move back usually far just for a paper towel holder. I will hang a dish towel on the pull on the drawer below the prep sink. I don't think I can squeeze it in below the window as I think it is framed in there but the roll might get wet in that spot anyway. Hanging it under the cabinet or would probably be tacky since I've gone to great lengths for a very streamlined clean look. Not sure what people think of those standing racks for paper towels. Putting it on the side of the window seems to throw off the symmetry

Also, near the range top, should I create any nooks for olive oil, etc.? I'm worried about oil stains on my beautiful new mostly white (Princess White) counter tops. A nook seems like a lot of work and then I'd want two for symmetry. Would it be odd if I had a folded towel there on which to put the oil when I'm cooking? I don't think a coaster would necessarily be sufficient.

Would love to know what other people do. Thank you!

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clipped on: 10.27.2013 at 01:41 am    last updated on: 10.27.2013 at 01:41 am

Installing knobs on too-thick drawers

posted by: gale1965 on 10.14.2013 at 07:30 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I bought some knobs that have the screw coming out of the back of the knob itself (with a nut and washer included) instead of having a separate screw. Naturally they are just barely too short for my bathroom cabinet drawers. Would you drill a bigger hole on the drawer box itself (on the inside) to inset the nut and washer? To do that should I remove the drawer fronts first? I have the same problem in the kitchen, but there are separate screws on the knobs in there so I can just buy slightly longer screws.

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clipped on: 10.14.2013 at 07:31 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2013 at 07:31 pm

Would you put a towel holder here? Or leave it?

posted by: gale1965 on 10.09.2013 at 03:04 pm in Bathrooms Forum

This is our new bathroom and this is to the right of the sink. It is a small sink. On the other side is the toilet and I do not want to put a towel above the toilet (I have other plans for that area, plus I don't want people to have to lean over the toilet). There will be a towel on the opposite wall, which is just 3' from the sink (bathroom is 5' wide). Would you put a towel ring here or leave it blank? It would have to be a ring because of the light switch being in the way and the towel would hang between the switch and the wall. I could hang it above the switch but I don't want anyone dripping on the switch, plus it seems awkward that high. thank you.

btw this is a modular so we didn't get to choose where the switches go. If we had, I would have at least asked them to put it closer to the edge of the wall.

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clipped on: 10.09.2013 at 03:04 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2013 at 03:04 pm

cabinet knob/pull templates-have you altered one?

posted by: gale1965 on 10.08.2013 at 05:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

I bought a plastic template at Home Depot for installing our cabinet knobs and pulls. Only thing is, the holes aren't where we want. I want the pulls in the center of the smaller drawers and the same distance from the top on the larger drawers but the holes are just above and just below center. Would you just put it on the 'just above' or make new holes in the template? Or maybe put a spacer on the underside of the top of the template to hold the template up to the right position?

As for the knobs. I want to line them up with the horizontal rails on the doors but there's no hole there either. And no hole right in the center of the rail-only just to the right and just to the left of center. So I have the same options-make new holes or add some kind of spacers to the template. Anyone done either of these and have any advice? thank you.

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clipped on: 10.08.2013 at 06:00 pm    last updated on: 10.08.2013 at 06:00 pm

After-market pullout trash can that attaches to the door

posted by: gale1965 on 09.23.2013 at 09:02 pm in Kitchens Forum

Has anyone installed one of these? I want one under my stove (it is a sink base) and it has doors right now, with a stile in between. I'm wondering how hard it would be to install something where I would remove the door and then attach it to the pullout like the one linked. Anyone done this?

Here is a link that might be useful: revashelf pull out trash can

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clipped on: 09.23.2013 at 09:05 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2013 at 09:05 pm

Ideas for a way to open a regular cabinet door w/ my foot?

posted by: gale1965 on 09.14.2013 at 02:47 am in Kitchens Forum

I have an aftermarket type slide out trash bin in a regular cabinet. I need a way to open the door (which is the type that is not inset, whatever that is called) with my foot. I'm pretty talented with my toes, if I do say so myself, but I can't squeeze them in between the door and the frame of the cabinet, and I really don't want to use my toes on the regular knob. I thought about using a finger pull type like the one linked and install it on the bottom of the door, but it has sharp corners and I am worried about people somehow smacking their ankles on it. I prefer one that doesn't require drilling into the outside part of the door and so far this is the only one I've seen that installs on the inside. Any other ideas?

Here is a link that might be useful: berenson finger pull

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clipped on: 09.14.2013 at 02:47 am    last updated on: 09.14.2013 at 02:47 am

shopping for a new kitchen faucet...help

posted by: gale1965 on 09.05.2013 at 11:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I know I want a pull-down or pull-out faucet and have seen that Delta is a good midpriced brand with good reviews. So anyway, now my question. I am pretty short. Right now I have a regular faucet where the handle is on the right (not connected to the spout) and I often have to turn it on with my elbow. I can just reach it with my elbow. My faucet is similar to this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/MOEN-Lindley-Single-Handle-Side-Sprayer-Kit chen-Faucet-in-Spot-Resist-Stainless-with-Soap-Dispenser-CA87008SRS/20 2550750#.UilIh8pKHZ0 (link below)
I was looking at the pull down faucets where the handle is connected to the spout on the side of it and after thinking about it, I am wondering if it would be hard for me to reach that with my elbow. Do you think the pull-out where the handle is behind the spout (but sticks out further) would be better for me? I've noticed that the pull down ones have better reviews.

So are there any other shorties here that have the pull down type where the handle is further back? I know you can mount it with the handle in front but does the spout get in the way of turning it on? thanks

Here is a link that might be useful: faucet similar to mine

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clipped on: 09.06.2013 at 02:07 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2013 at 02:07 pm

pull down faucets-how do you like the handles?

posted by: gale1965 on 08.19.2013 at 04:14 am in Kitchens Forum

Do you prefer the ones with the separate handle or the ones where the handle is attached to the spout? I wanted the kind attached to the spout but then I read that sometimes it's easy (especially for kids) to not turn it off all the way. Do you have/like a separate handle like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-16970-SSSD-DST-Pull-Down-Dispenser-Stainle ss/dp/B0030DK6T4

or an integrated handle like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Faucet-9178-AR-DST-Pull-Down-Stainless/dp/ B00A39FSAK

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clipped on: 08.19.2013 at 04:14 am    last updated on: 08.19.2013 at 04:14 am

Picky picky picky

posted by: GWlolo on 08.19.2013 at 03:12 am in Kitchens Forum

This is what my GC told me today as something they heard from someone else. The person who said this has a business that does deep precision cleaning that I was paying for to get all the construction dust from the house. After they said they were ''Done''.. I went to check and found dust on the countertop edges, small plaster and grout dust in the bath, spots of stain and paint on the porcelain tile floors, edges that were missed, pieces of glue, stuck on tape etc. I was taken aback by the so called ''feedback'', and was getting mad. And then I immediately realized that maybe I am.. But I am very OK with it. I see it as a positive trait. I notice and care about details. I believe in going the mile to do a really good job. I do have a high bar and respect and appreciate it when people do a good job. So I told my GC ''Tough S&*!''. If someone does a half ass job, I am not going to let it slide.

So knowing how TKO folks here are, do people think you are picky? Does it bother you? Have you found a way to be picky but have people think you are nice?

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clipped on: 08.19.2013 at 03:47 am    last updated on: 08.19.2013 at 03:47 am

can you take a look at my floor plan?

posted by: gale1965 on 05.26.2013 at 03:55 am in Kitchens Forum

This is the kitchen in a modular that we are going to be buying. We have decided to change the stock kitchen a little bit. A few things-I have a cooktop and wall oven that we are reusing in the new kitchen. We want to maximize counter space so the wall oven will go into a base height cabinet. It's low now so it shouldn't be a problem for me and I'm pretty short anyway.

The sink on the original plan is on the island but I want it on the wall under the window. The fridge was originally on the other wall but I'd like it closer to the dining area. The original plan had an angled island but I want a rectangular one instead. I have the island set 4' from the counters across from it-any closer and it would be too much in the path between the cooktop and the fridge.

In this plan I have the wall oven in the island across from the cooktop, but in the event it can't go there for some reason, it will have to go in the cabinet next to the cooktop, which will break up the symmetry on that wall. Speaking of symmetry, with the size of this kitchen it isn't possible to keep things perfectly symmetrical so I will live with asymmetry. On the very left side of the wall cabinets above the cooktop, I put in a 3" filler. The software didn't color it though, so it just looks white. There is a small wall at that end that will cover the ends of the cabinets.

On the right side of the fridge we're planning to use a freestanding pantry about 42" wide. It's our current pantry but it's barely been used due to the location so we want to use it instead of buying a new pantry.

The island on the graph paper drawing is to scale. I couldn't find anything similar on the NKBA site so I just put a couple of base cabinets and an open shelf together to represent it. The link below shows what the island looks like but it will be a mirror image of the one shown, provided they can make it that way.

The doorway to the left goes to the laundry area. The rest of the kitchen is open to the dining area and the living room. I am not concerned that my back will be to the room while I am cooking or cleaning up. In fact, sometimes I think I'd rather it was that way. Like a mini vacation from my kids. lol

 photo kitchengraph.jpg

 photo 2dviewoverhead.jpg

 photo 3dview1.jpg

 photo 3dview2.jpg

thank you :)

Here is a link that might be useful: island

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clipped on: 05.26.2013 at 04:09 am    last updated on: 05.26.2013 at 04:10 am

questions about nafco tiles

posted by: gale1965 on 05.24.2013 at 11:43 pm in Flooring Forum

We are planning to buy a modular and the flooring they offer for the kitchen is a type of nafco tile that has grout on the tile. So it has what looks like grout on 2 sides and when they install it all, it looks grouted but it really isn't. So anyway I was concerned about this tile in a kitchen-especially if something is spilled. Is it sealed somehow? In one of the houses we looked at, which is one that was being built for a customer, the tile did not look like it was sealed and it looked like if something was spilled, it would go right in between the tiles. I looked at the Tarkett website and the installation guide on it but it doesn't mention anything about sealing from above. Link below to the modular company's tile page.

Here is a link that might be useful: tile options

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clipped on: 05.24.2013 at 11:43 pm    last updated on: 05.24.2013 at 11:43 pm

How much distance between things?

posted by: gale1965 on 05.20.2013 at 05:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't mean walking distance but counter space. In our new kitchen, we will have the sink, dishwasher and fridge on the same wall. The sink will be in the (approximate) center, the dishwasher to the left of it, and to the right, the refrigerator, with a cabinet between the fridge and sink.. Is there a standard distance between the sink and the fridge? I'm guessing at least 24" but is that enough?

Also, our cooktop will be on an adjacent wall with a doorway at the end of the counter (so there won't be a wall or anything-just a drop off). Is 12" enough between the cooktop and the end of the countertop? Or would you make it bigger?

The image attached is a very crudely drawn tentative layout of it. Ignore the 48" on the top. It doesn't mean anything. The top width is 150" and the side is 94" of cabinet and 76" from the edge of the doorway to the wall, including the other cabinets. The 3 cabinets in the middle will be an island and will be one unit. The wall oven on the island will be in a base cabinet-not a tall one.

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clipped on: 05.20.2013 at 05:46 pm    last updated on: 05.20.2013 at 05:46 pm