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RE: Cabinets: Corner & Other- What To Ask For? (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: buehl on the other side...using a tray cabinet divider and storing the cutting boards the long way front-to-back...this way, you only need to grasp the front of the cutting board to retrieve it and, meanwhile, the angled cavernous space is utilized by the other end of the cutting boards (ditto for pizza stones) in Kitchens Forum

Some Corner Storage Options...both upper & base

Lazy Susan

  • Pole in the middle
  • Can be a full circle or pie cut
  • Can have door attached to pie cut so it rotates in when the cabinet is opened (so no banging adjacent cabinets w/the cabinet doors)
  • Most today have a wall that follows the contour of the shelves so closely that nothing can fall off (except maybe a hair...)
  • Pole does limit the size of items that can be stored
  • I had a lazy susan in my old kitchen and it held all my pots & pans, colanders, and a few serving pieces - the pole was not a problem for me. However, if you store small appliances in the susan, then I think the pole might get in the way.
  • My mom has one in an upper corner...I don't like it. I think it wastes too much space...but it's a diagonal cabinet, so it's a little better than a diagonal easy reach

Super Susan

  • No pole in the middle - the rotating shelf sits on a stationary shelf (sometimes, the stationary shelf is adjustable, sometimes not)
  • Can be a full circle or pie cut
  • Cannot have door attached to pie cut b/c only the rotating shelf moves, not the stationary :-); this means the door can bang into adjacent cabinets
  • I have not seen one with the close walls, so things could fall off the rotating shelf and onto the stationary shelf...however, there may be ones with the tight wall out there...
  • Lack of pole allows storage of large items on the entire shelf (like small appliances)

Blind corner

  • Back 24" x 24" space is blind and not easily accessed (12" x 12" of upper cabinet with 12" deep upper cabinets)
  • Can put in a pullout, but if anything falls off, you have to crawl inside to retrieve it before you can close the pullout and then the cabinet
  • Depending on how installed, the door could either (1) bang into adjacent cabinets or (2) open on opposite side of corner and limit access to the opening (unless you have hinges that open close to 180 degrees)
  • The best installation I've seen is with roll out tray shelves that pullout from inside the blind corner - nothing can fall off b/c the shelves take up the full depth of the cabinets. However, that means only things that can be easily removed can be stored in front of the roll out tray shelves.

Easy Reach

  • Stationary but adjustable shelves
  • Two kinds:
    • Pie-cut with doors on each side of the corner...see the thread Angie linked for an example in an upper cabinet
    • Diagonal opening with not very accessible storage in the back side corners

Corner Drawers

  • Drawers installed to, hopefully, the full depth of the cabinet with either straight (on a diagonal) or pie cut drawer fronts.
  • See the thread linked below for more info

Cabinet turned 90 degrees

  • IF corner is a peninsula that opens on the outside of the kitchen, then the best use of space is to take a 27" to 30" cabinet and turn it 90 degrees so it faces out
  • This gives you full use of the corner with little loss of space
  • I did this in one of my two corners...the outward-facing cabinet holds dog food, treats, meds, leashes, etc. (our "pet center")

Sink Base

  • If you have a prep sink, consider a corner sink base.
  • I did this in the other corner...it has plenty of space for plumbing + I store cutting boards on one side and pizza stones on
    the other side...using a tray cabinet divider and storing the cutting boards the long way front-to-back...this way, you only need to grasp the front of the cutting board to retrieve it and, meanwhile, the angled cavernous space is utilized by the other end of the cutting boards (ditto for pizza stones)


My personal preferences?

For base cabinets:

  1. Cabinet turned 90 degrees OR Corner Sink Base
  2. Corner Susan OR Corner Drawers - depending on what is to be stored in the corner
  3. Easy Reach
  4. A distant last place - Blind Corner

For upper cabinets:

  1. Pie cut easy reach
  2. Corner Susan with diagonal doors
  3. A distant last place - Blind Corner

    Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Corner susan or diagonal drawers?

    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 01.13.2012 at 11:00 am    last updated on: 01.13.2012 at 11:02 am

    RE: Breakfast Station pictures? (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: rhome410 on 10.07.2010 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Andersons, Our counters are deeper along that wall by about 3 inches, but the rangetop is pulled out about that far, too. Did you see the following photo? You can kind of see the extra room behind the rangetop, which I like having, and how the whole thing lines up with the cabinets on the front.

    We used standard depth cabinets and just installed them away from the wall. We had the sheet metal guy who made our stainless counters also wrap filler pieces to install behind the rangetop and behind the hood vent.

    Photobucket

    Sorry we went off topic, Kathec! Cute hutch idea, Honeychurch. Will it have enough counter to work on so the mess won't end up mixed up with your appliances and inside the garage doors? Our Bfast counter gets very messy! ;-)


    NOTES:

    Rangetop installation- front flush with cabinets.
    clipped on: 10.11.2010 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 10.11.2010 at 12:26 pm

    RE: Please show me your cabinet end panels! (Follow-Up #7)

    posted by: boxerpups on 09.20.2010 at 08:27 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here are a few. Not all are shaker but maybe they
    can help you plan your own space.
    ~boxerpups

    Remodeling Center
    Photobucket

    NBN News

    Photobucket

    Hampton Designs

    white

    Party Designs
    Photobucket

    Ephesus Remodeling
    Photobucket

    Starmark
    Photobucket

    Strom Ktichens
    Photobucket

    Crown Point Shaker
    Photobucket

    IVC Cabinets
    Photobucket

    Jennifer Gilmer Designs Maryland
    Photobucket

    Photobucket

    Shelley Gordon Viahou
    Photobucket

    Kitchen And Bath Ideas
    Photobucket

    Crown Point
    Photobucket


    NOTES:

    end panel gallery
    clipped on: 09.20.2010 at 09:55 am    last updated on: 09.20.2010 at 09:56 am

    RE: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets (Follow-Up #20)

    posted by: lisaslists2000 on 03.02.2010 at 06:03 am in Kitchens Forum

    I love my drawers. I don't stack things in them, except same things. For example off not stacking see below - I keep all my bowls - little custard ones we use for icecream, cereal, small serving, etc. in a drawer which I don't have time to take a pic of right now. Love the drawers.
    Lisa

    behind the door baking

    behind the door cooking


    NOTES:

    pan storage.
    clipped on: 08.05.2010 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2010 at 02:36 pm

    RE: Show me your hood! (pics) (Follow-Up #21)

    posted by: franki1962 on 07.01.2010 at 05:31 pm in Kitchens Forum

    we ended up with a wolf 600cfm pro hood I like it that the controls are on the front and not up underneath the hood

    kitchen view from family room


    NOTES:

    cab doors open towards hood; multiple doors on one side
    clipped on: 07.15.2010 at 09:15 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2010 at 09:16 pm

    RE: How deep for kitchen drawers? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: plllog on 07.07.2010 at 12:55 am in Kitchens Forum

    LOL! I seem to be finding all your threads. This one is sinking, so I'll tell you what I did. My whole kitchen is 100% custom to my design, made by a local cabinetmaker, so you might have different results with standardized sizes if you're buying commercial.

    For widths, I got as wide as possible. I have a U so I have 2 sets of corner drawers. Those are 36" units. I suppose it's possible to make them different sizes, but that's standard and works well. From the corner to the oven structure are 31.5" wide drawers. On the other side are 48" pot drawers under my 48" hood. Then the DW and the sink cabinet (ROTS in the bottom under the sink not only makes it more convenient to reach the back, when a plumbing adjustment has to be made the whole thing can be taken out without emptying it. Between the sink cabinet and the other corner is the trash with a drawer above. Between the corner and the Advantium/fridge/freezer structure is a little 11.5" wide (exterior measure) pullout (for bread, cereal, etc.) in the extra space.

    I want fridge drawers in the middle of my small island. There's a sink cabinet on the side that determines the width of the right hand drawers (19.5" exterior). The left hand drawers (14" exterior) are what's left. Behind the drawers on the other side is a big pullout caddy for boards.

    Under the ovens and Advantium are two large drawers, the full 30" wide. One is 11.5" deep (interior height) and the other is almost 15" deep (interior), each with a 4" ROTS inside (3" interior). Plus the 6" deep x 30" wide drawer I have under the Advantium for the trays, potholders, etc.

    I also have five small, shallow drawers in my butler's pantry area for serving pieces and extra flatware, again the width that fit. There's a full height spice rack by the ovens and a pitcher cupboard the same height.

    As I said, biggest possible. No extra divisions. I measured all my stuff and decided that I could fit whatever I wanted, where I wanted if I had the same depths all the way around the perimeter. My tall canisters and stock pot are 11" tall, so my bottom drawers are 11" inside (13" outside, full overlay). For utensils and stuff I thought 4" inside (6" outside) was adequate (I have hanging (pegboard) storage for weird stuff like the egg beater). That left 9" inside (11" outside) which fits my medium canisters, bread bowl, and allows me to stack a few pots. My small appliances all fit in the deep drawers under the ovens. The pizza stone, which is amazingly heavy, goes in the pullout under its oven.

    I have baking pans and bowls in the 31.5" drawers. Canisters and utensils in the baking corner; flatware, plastic containers and tea towels in the sink corner. The top drawer under the cooktop is vestigial (most of the depth is stove), but it holds grill pans, spatter screens, wooden spoons and stirrers, meatforks, etc. Knives, wraps and bags, gadgets and tools in the narrow island drawers, of which there are four, and colanders and graters in one of the wide, deeper drawers, mixing/prep bowls in the other.

    That's a very longwinded way of saying, measure everything and make sure it'll fit where you want it to fit, and make sure you have a place to put away everything you need to put away. You can always put organizers or dividers in wider drawers, but you can never get back the space you waste by putting narrower drawers in. Cutting three feet in half loses you not only the inch and a half of the actual cabinetry, plus the width of the rails, but also the area where handles can cross, little things can be fit among bigger things, etc.

    Brevity is not my strong suit. I hope this is helpful.


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 07.07.2010 at 11:42 am    last updated on: 07.07.2010 at 11:43 am

    RE: organizing lower drawers (Follow-Up #4)

    posted by: desertsteph on 05.22.2010 at 04:06 pm in Kitchens Forum

    here are some drawers put in kitchens by gw posters -

    pots, pans and lids:

    Photobucket

    pots/pans with shallow inner pull outs for skillets, lids, shallow baking dishes:

    Photobucket

    deep sided drawer with inner drawer/pull out:

    Photobucket


    food items/can goods:

    Photobucket


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 07.02.2010 at 02:13 am    last updated on: 07.02.2010 at 02:14 am

    RE: too-neutral kitchen- please help (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: florantha on 06.09.2010 at 03:30 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I am an advocate of artwork. Consider a fabulous piece or two--give yourself permission to cruise art fairs, local galleries, auctions, etc.

    You can also insert a lot of personality with fabrics (chair covers, placemats, roman shades, valences, towels) and colored or textured honeycomb shades or miniblinds--ask the clerk for the special order book.

    Colored glass in pendant light fixtures is very big right now. Cruise the lighting websites and skip right past those items that only have colors that aren't on the rainbow.

    Grab a color from the window views or from the rooms visible from the kitchen. For example, I have decorated a neutral living room by using the colors I see on the hill in the distance--sumac red, spring greens, and deep greens.

    Throw rugs? Washable rugs?

    brainstorm different ways to get some color up near the ceiling--paint a band of color around the perimeter of theroom on the ceiling? Hang something from the ceiling? Put something on a high shelf?

    Colored cooking implements? Lots of colored handles on knives and utensils and such these days.

    Splurge on a fabulous set of bright dishes. Use them!

    Choose colorful cookbooks--put them on an open shelf.

    Get some houseplants or an aquarium. Even a bowl of goldfish or betas is good!

    Paint something. Chairs or stools? The rim of the clock? the stepstool?

    Put colored glass into the doors of a few cupboards. Or use plain glass and mount fabric inside the door to coordinate with other items in room.

    Go walk through a few open houses and page through some kitchen catalogs. Look at a couple years' worth of Better Homes & Gardens kitchens. Visit Starpooh's "Finished Kitchens Blog." You will find more than enough ideas.


    NOTES:

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    clipped on: 06.10.2010 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 06.10.2010 at 01:53 pm

    Stone Information and Advice (& Checklists)

    posted by: buehl on 04.14.2008 at 02:56 am in Kitchens Forum

    First off, I want to give a big thank-you to StoneGirl, Kevin, Joshua, Mimi, and others (past and current) on this forum who have given us many words of wisdom concerning stone countertops.

    I've tried to compile everything I saved over the past 8 months that I've been on this Forum. Most of it was taken from a write-up by StoneGirl (Natural stone primer/granite 101); other threads and sources were used as well.

    So...if the experts could review the information I've compiled below and send me comments (here or via email), I will talk to StarPooh about getting this on the FAQ.


    Stone Information, Advice, and Checklists:

    In an industry that has no set standards, there are many unscrupulous people trying to palm themselves off as fabricators. There are also a number of people with odd agendas trying to spread ill rumors about natural stone and propagate some very confusing and contradictory information. This is my small attempt at shedding a little light on the subject.

    Slab Selection:

    On the selection of the actual stone slabs - When you go to the slab yard to choose slabs for your kitchen, there are a few things you need to take note of:

    • Surface finish: The finish - be it polished, honed, flamed antiqued, or brushed, should be even. There should be no spots that have obvious machine marks, scratches, or other man made marks. You can judge by the crystal and vein pattern of the stone if the marks you see are man-made or naturally occurring. It is true that not all minerals will finish evenly and if you look at an angle on a polished slab with a larger crystal pattern, you can clearly see this. Tropic Brown would be a good example here. The black spots will not polish near as shiny as the brown ones and this will be very obvious on an unresined slab when looking at an acute angle against the light. The black specks will show as duller marks. The slab will feel smooth and appear shiny if seen from above, though. This effect will not be as pronounced on a resined slab.

      Bottom line when judging the quality of a surface finish: Look for unnatural appearing marks. If there are any on the face of the slab, it is not desirable. They might well be on the extreme edges, but this is normal and a result of the slab manufacturing process.

    • Mesh backing: Some slabs have a mesh backing. This was done at the plant where the slabs were finished. This backing adds support to brittle materials or materials with excessive veining or fissures. A number of exotic stones will have this. This does not necessarily make the material one of inferior quality, though. Quite often, these slabs will require special care in fabrication and transport, so be prepared for the fabricator to charge accordingly. If you are unsure about the slabs, ask your fabricator what his opinion of the material is.
    • Cracks and fissures: Yes - some slabs might have them. One could have quite the discussion on whether that line on the slab could be one or the other, so I'll try to explain it a little.

      • Fissures are naturally occurring features in stone. They will appear as little lines in the surface of the slabs (very visible in a material like Verde Peacock) and could even be of a different color than the majority of the stone (think of those crazed white lines sometimes appearing in Antique Brown). Sometimes they could be fused like in Antique Brown and other times they could be open, as is the case in the Verde Peacock example. They could often also go right through the body of the slab like in Crema Marfil, for instance. If you look at the light reflection across a fissure, you will never see a break - i.e., there will be no change in the plane on either side of a fissure.
      • A crack on the other hand is a problem... If you look at the slab at an oblique angle in the light, you will note the reflection of the shine on the surface of the stone. A crack will appear as a definite line through the reflection and the reflection will have a different appearance on either side of the line - there will be a break in the plane. Reject slabs like this. One could still work around fissures. Cracks are a whole other can of worms.
      • Resined slabs: The resin gets applied prior to the slabs being polished. Most of the resin then gets ground off in the polishing process. You should not be able to see just by looking at the surface of a slab whether it was resined or not. If you look at the rough sides of the slab, though, you will see some drippy shiny marks, almost like varnish drips. This should be the only indication that the slab is resined. There should never be a film or layer on the face of the stone. With extremely porous stones, the resining will alleviate, but not totally eliminate absorption issues and sealer could still be required. Lady's dream is an example. This material is always resined, but still absorbs liquids and requires sealer.
      • Test the material you have selected for absorption issues regardless - it is always best to know what your stone is capable of and to be prepared for any issues that might arise. Some stones indeed do not require sealer - be they resined or not. Baltic Brown would be an example here. It will not absorb one iota of anything, but it is still resined to eliminate a flaking issue.

    Tests (especially for Absolute Black) (using a sample of YOUR slab):

    • To verify you have true AB and not dyed: Clean with denatured alcohol and rub marble polishing powder on the face. (Get denatured alcohol at Home Depot in the paint department)
    • Lemon Juice or better yet some Muratic Acid: will quickly show if the stone has alot of calcium content and will end up getting etched. This is usually chinese stone, not indian.
    • Acetone: The Dying usually is done on the same chinese stone. like the others said, acetone on a rag will reveal any dye that has been applied
    • Chips: Using something very hard & metalhit the granite sharply & hard on edges to see if it chips, breaks, or cracks


    Measuring:

    • Before the templaters get there...
      • Make sure you have a pretty good idea of your faucet layout--where you want the holes drilled for all the fixtures and do a test mock up to make sure you have accounted for sufficient clearances between each fixture.
      • Be sure you test your faucet for clearances not just between each fixture, but also between the faucet and the wall behind the faucet (if there is one). You need to be sure the handle will function properly.
      • Make sure that the cabinets are totally level (not out by more than 1/8") before the counter installers come in.
      • Check how close they should come to a stove and make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter.
      • Make sure they have the sink/faucet templates to work from.
      • Make sure have your garbage disposal air switch on hand or know the diameter

    • If you are not putting in a backsplash, tell them
    • Double check the template. Make sure that the measurements are reasonable. Measure the opening for the range.
    • Seam Placement: Yet another kettle of fish (or can of worms, depending on how you look at it, I guess!) Seam placement is ultimately at the discretion of the fabricator. I know it is not a really popular point of view, but that is just the way it is. There really is more to deciding where the seam would go than just the size of the slab or where the seam would look best in the kitchen.

      Most stone installations will have seams. They are unavoidable in medium or large sized kitchens. One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum. It seems that a good book could be written about seams, their quality, and their placementand still you will have some information that will be omitted! For something as seemingly simple as joining two pieces of stone, seams have evolved into their own universe of complexity far beyond what anybody should have fair cause to expect!

    • Factors determining seam placement:
      • The slab: size, color, veining, structure (fissures, strength of the material an other characteristics of the stone)
      • Transport to the job site: Will the fabricated pieces fit on whatever vehicle and A-frames he has available
      • Access to the job site: Is the house on stilts? (common in coastal areas) How will the installers get the pieces to where they need to go? Will the tops fit in the service elevator if the apartment is on the 10th floor? Do the installers need to turn tight corners to get to the kitchen? There could be 101 factors that will influence seam placement here alone.
      • Placement and size of undermount (or other) cut-outs. Some fabricators like to put seams in undermount sinks, some do not. We, for instance will do it if absolutely necessary, and have done so with great success, but will not do so as general practice. We do like to put seams in the middle of drop-in appliances and cut-outs and this is a great choice for appearances and ease of installation.
      • Location of the cabinets: Do the pieces need to go in between tall cabinets with finished sides? Do the pieces need to slide in under appliance garages or other cabinetry? How far do the upper cabinets hang over? Is there enough clearance between the vent hood and other cabinets? Again the possibilities are endless and would depend on each individual kitchen lay-out and - ultimately -
      • Install-ability of the fabricated pieces: Will that odd angle hold up to being moved and turned around to get on the peninsula if there is no seam in it? Will the extra large sink cut-out stay intact if we hold the piece flat and at a 45 degree angle to slide it in between those two tall towers? Again, 1,001 combinations of cabinetry and material choices will come into play on this question.

      You can ask your fabricator to put a seam at a certain location and most likely he will oblige, but if he disagrees with you, it is not (always) out of spite or laziness. Check on your fabricator's seams by going to actual kitchens he has installed. Do not trust what you see in a showroom as sole testament to your fabricator's ability to do seams.

      With modern glues and seaming methods, a seam could successfully be put anywhere in an installation without compromising the strength or integrity of the stone. If a seam is done well, there is - in theory - no "wrong" location for it. A reputable fabricator will also try to keep the number of seams in any installation to a minimum. It is not acceptable, for instance to have a seam in each corner, or at each point where the counter changes direction, like on an angled peninsula.

      Long or unusually large pieces are often done if they can fit in the constraints of a slab. Slabs as a rule of thumb will average at about 110"x65". There are bigger slabs and quite often smaller ones too. Check with the fabricator or the slab yard. They will be more than happy to tell you the different sizes of slabs they have available. Note, though, that the larger the slabs, the smaller the selection of possible colors. Slab sizes would depend in part on the capabilities of the quarry, integrity of the material or the capabilities of the machinery at the finishing plant. We have had slabs as wide as 75" and as long as 130" before, but those are monsters and not always readily available.

    • Generally, it is not a good idea to seam over a DW because there's no support for the granite, and anything heavy placed at or near the seam would stress the stone, possibly breaking it.
    • Rodding is another issue where a tremendous amount of mis-information and scary stories exist: The main purpose for rodding stone would be to add integrity to the material around cut-outs. This is primarily for transport and installation and serves no real purpose once the stone is secured and fully supported on the cabinets. It would also depend on the material. A fabricator would be more likely to rod Ubatuba than he would Black Galaxy, for instance. The flaky and delicate materials prone to fissures would be prime candidates for rodding. Rodding is basically when a fabricator cuts slots in the back of the stone and embeds steel or fiberglass rods with epoxy in the slots in the stone. You will not see this from the top or front of the installation. This is an "insurance policy" created by the fabricator to make sure that the stone tops make it to your cabinets all in one piece
    • Edges: The more rounded an edge is, the more stable it would be. Sharp, flat edges are prone to chipping under the right (or rather wrong) circumstances. Demi or full bullnose edges would almost entirely eliminate this issue. A properly milled and polished edge will be stable and durable regardless of the profile, though. My guess at why ogee and stacked edges are not more prevalent would be purely because of cost considerations. Edge pricing is determined by the amount of work needed to create it. The more intricate edge profiles also require an exponentially larger skill set and more time to perfect. The ogee edge is a very elegant edge and can be used to great effect, but could easily look overdone if it is used everywhere. We often advise our clients to combine edges for greater impact - i.e., eased edge on all work surfaces, and ogee on the island to emphasize the cabinetry or unusual shape.
      Edge profiles are largely dependent on what you like and can afford. There is no real pro or con for regular or laminated edges. They all have their place in the design world. Check with your fabricator what their capabilities and pricing are. Look at actual kitchens and ask for references.


    Installation:

    • Seams:
      One hallmark of a good fabricator is that they will keep the seams to a minimum [StoneGirl]

      • A generic good quality seam should have the following characteristics:
        • It should be flat. According to the Marble Institute of America (MIA) a minimal amount of lippage is acceptable (1/32"), but conscientious fabricators all strive for a perfectly flat and smooth joint.
        • It should be narrow - as in smaller than 1/16". (I think the MIA stipulates no larger than 1/8", but that is pushing it - and only if the fabricator bevels the edges of the seam, almost similar to the edge of a stone tile. This is, thank goodness, not a standard practice any more!)
        • The color on either side of the seam should match as closely as possible. On regularly patterned stones like Ubatuba for example - there should be no variation. On stones with variation in colors or veins, the match should be made as close as was humanly possible.
        • Vein direction should flow. The MIA suggests a single direction of vein flow, but it is acceptable IF DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT to change vein direction on a seam if no other option is available. This would happen in book matched slabs - you will have a "butterfly" seam in this case. In other cases, the fabricator could put a miter seam in a corner and change vein direction 90 degrees. This is usually done with extremely linear veining like Bamboo Green, for example, but this is something that should be discussed with the fabricator and agreed upon by the client.
        • The seam on the finished edge of the stone should NOT dip in and create a divot in the edge. When you run your fingers over the edge, you should not be able to feel the location of the seam at all.
        • The thickness of the slabs on either side of the seam should be equal (or feathered out so that there is no discernible difference)
        • The glue in the seam should be of a color that matches the stone as closely as possible. Glue joints that are too light or too dark will show up something terrible. The idea behind tinting the glue is to try to make the seam "disappear" or something relatively close to it

    • Checklist:
      • Check the seams for evenness and smoothness.
        • Make sure that the seams are neat and clean.
        • Make sure that the seams are not obvious.
        • Make sure the seams are butted tight
        • Make sure that there are no scratches, pits, or cracks

      • If sealing is necessary (not all granites need to be sealed):
        • Make sure that the granite has been sealed
        • If more than one application of sealer was applied, ask how long they waited between applications
        • Ask which sealer has been used on the granite.

      • Make sure the sink reveal is consistent all the away around
      • Check the gap of the granite at the wall junctions.
      • Check for inconsistent overhangs from the counter edges
      • Check for chips. These can be filled.
      • Make sure the top drawers open & close
      • Make sure that you can open & close your dishwasher
      • Make sure the stove sits up higher than the counter
      • Make sure that you have the appropriate clearances for your appliances
      • Check the edge all around, a good edge should have the following characteristics:
        • Shine: The edge polish should match the top polish in depth and clarity. The edge should not be milky, dull, or waxy.
        • The edge should not have "waves". Eyeball along the edge. A good edge should have a mirror like reflection and be fairly flat. Waves that you can see or feel are not a good thing.
        • The aris (very top of the edge) should be crisp and straight, even on a bullnose edge. Once again you can see this by eyeballing along the very top end of the edge profile. A wavy, dippy aris is poor craftsmanship.
        • A good edge will have a consistent profile. It will not be larger in some spots or smaller in others.
        • A good edge should also have NO tooling lines. These will be fine lighter/white lines running along the edge. This is a mark of a poor edge polish, of a CNC machine that is not set correctly, and a lack of hand finishing. This is common when a company has only mechanical fabrication (i.e., CNC machines or line polishers) and no skilled hand fabricators to finish the work properly.

      • Run your hands around the entire laminated edge of yor counters to make sure they are smooth
      • Check surrounding walls & cabinets for damage

    Miscellaneous Information:

    • More than all the above and below, though, is to be present for both the templating as well as having the templates placed on your slabs at the fabricator's
      If you canot be there, then have a lengthy conversation about seam placement, ways to match the movement, and ways to color-match the counters that will be joined at the seam
    • Find a fabricator who is a member of the SFA
    • When they polish your stone for you don't let them wax it. It will look terrible in 2 months when the wax wears off.
    • Don't use the Magic Eraser on granite--especially AB
    • Any slab with more fill (resin) than stone is certainly a no-no!!
    • When you do check for scratches, have overhead lighting shining down so scratches are easier to see
    • Don't let them do cutouts in place (granite dust becomes a major issue)
    • Granite dust can be a problem...some have heard of SS appliances & hoods damaged by the dust, others have heard of drawer glides being ruined by the dust
    • If you have wood floors--especially if you're in the process of staining or finishing them--make sure that they don't spill or drip granite sealer on the wood floors. Apparently the sealer interferes with the stain or finish process.
    • Suggested Prep for Installation:
      • Remove any drawers and pullouts beneath any sections that will be cut or drilled onsite, e.g., sink cutouts and/or faucet, soap dispenser, air gap, instant hot etc. holes, cooktop cutouts.
      • Then just cover the glides themselves with a few layers of blue painter's tape (or some combo of plastic wrap and tape)
      • If you make sure to cover the top of the glides and attach some of the tape to the cab wall as well (to form sort of a seal)and cover the rest of the glides completely with tape, you should be fine.
      • Usually the fabricators will have someone holding a vacuum hose right at the spot where they are drilling or cutting, so very little granite dust should be landing on the glides. What little dust escapes the vacuum will be blocked by the layer(s) of tape.
      • When done w/installation, remove the tape and use a DustBuster (or similar) on all the cabinets and glides

    • Countertop Support:
      • If your granite is 2 cm thick, then there can be no more then 6" of of unsupported span with a 5/8" subtop
      • If your granite is 3 cm thick, then there can be no more then 10" of unsupported span - no subtop required
      • If you need support, the to determine your corbel dimensions:
      • Thickness of Stone - Dimension of Unsupported Span = Corbel Dimensino
      • i.e., an 18" total overhang in 2 cm would require a 12" corbe; the same overhang in 3 cm would require an 8" corbel

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    clipped on: 06.07.2010 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 06.07.2010 at 10:03 pm

    RE: Loves2Cook4Six- Question about your pot rack cabinet?? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: loves2cook4six on 11.19.2007 at 08:33 am in Kitchens Forum

    We needed more hardware than came with the shelf :)

    We purchased bolts long enough to go through the shelf and then through the "slit" of the pot rack where the hooks go. We used a washer to prevent the nut from falling back through the slit.

    Then we drilled holes aprox. 3" in from the edges along the long center of the shelf and bolted the pot rack to the shelf. We can adjust the height of the pot rack by adjusting the shelf height. Right now the bolts hold the pot rack so tightly to the shelf that the hooks cannot move. I need to loosen the bolts a wee bit and adjust the hooks better and then retighten them.

    In the picture below you can see the bolt between the first and second hook from the left.

    Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


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    clipped on: 06.01.2010 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2010 at 02:36 pm

    RE: Does your vent hood stick out 2 ft? Pics pls! (Follow-Up #13)

    posted by: buehl on 05.28.2010 at 09:55 am in Kitchens Forum

    Sue15c...check the installation instructions for your hood. It should tell you the minimum & maximum distances for hood height.

    Assuming a wall hood...For moderately strong vents, the typical distance is 30" off the cooking surface. If you want to install it higher (e.g., 36"), then you need to get a wider hood (at least 6" wider than your cooking surface) and a more powerful vent (how powerful depends on how long the duct work is & how many turns there are).

    Remember, too, that while your cooktop is 25" deep, it's typically installed several inches from the back wall (again, assuming a wall installation), so your cooking surface starts 2 or 3 inches from the back wall.

    Is your cooktop really 25" deep? Or, is that the installed depth? Standard counters are 25.5" deep and that includes a 1.5" overhang that extends past the 24" cabinet box and covers the door plus a little more (to protect your cabinets & doors from liquids, etc.)

    Honestly, I think 20" is too shallow. Will it cover the front of the front-most burner? It needs to...preferably a couple of inches beyond the front burner (smoke/steam/grease/odors/etc. drift outward fairly quickly as they rise).

    In your situation, the recommended hood size would is:

    • 36" wide (even if installed 30" above, 6" wider is still recommended. 30" will work, but get a more powerful vent to suck up that smoke/grease/steam/odors/etc. faster.

    • 24" deep

    • If no turns or no more than one 45-degree turn OR conversion and a short duct run, then a 600cfm hood is probably OK as long as you install it within the manufacturers specs.

      If more than one turn or conversion OR a long duct run, then I would aim for at least 900cfms.

    • Probably installed 30" off the surface of the hood

    How can you tell if you'll bump your head? If you could mock it up, that would help, but it may be difficult to do b/c you need to hang your mock-up at the same height and with the same mass as the hood would be.

    If you can, get a hood with rounded or angled corners, not sharp corners. Then if you do bump your head, you won't draw blood! Remember that you generally instinctively avoid things at head level.


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    clipped on: 05.28.2010 at 11:53 am    last updated on: 05.28.2010 at 11:54 am

    RE: Best width for pot drawers? (Follow-Up #3)

    posted by: desertsteph on 05.17.2010 at 09:16 pm in Kitchens Forum

    I think I'd do a 27" and a 21" - 2 shallow drawers at the top of the 27" and 2 @ the top of the 36" one you plan. then you can divide the 'junk' from the wrap, the linens etc. You might be able to put 2 at the top of the 21" also. If you're doing frameless you'll have more room in them than in framed. or you could put a divider in it for split use.

    you could put the least used pots/pans in the bottom drawer. that way you'd have 2 @ 30" right next to the stove for them.

    you could put a divider in one (or 2) for the lids like so:

    Photobucket


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    clipped on: 05.17.2010 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2010 at 11:50 pm

    RE: cd fridge--how much are they supposed to stick out? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: buehl on 05.11.2010 at 04:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Yes, the doors have to stick out past the surrounding cabinets/counters to be able to open fully. Most CD refrigerators stick out from the back wall approximately 30". That accounts for:

    Air & plug clearance in the back + carcass + doors + handles

    Two threads (I just posted to them as well w/more information for those who have bookmarked them.)

    Thread: Hiding the Refrigerator Carcass

    Thread: CD Refrigerator measurement...confused

    Here is a link that might be useful: How to Build-In a Refrigerator Slideshow


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    clipped on: 05.11.2010 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2010 at 05:56 pm

    RE: cd fridge--how much are they supposed to stick out? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: buehl on 05.11.2010 at 12:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

    The vast majority of CD refrigerators are refrigerators with carcasses/boxes approx 24" deep. The doors must stick out past the adjacent walls/doors/cabinets/counters to open fully. What most of us have done to make a CD refrigerator look more built-in is to surround it by 3/4" finished (plain) end panels with a full-depth (24") cabinet mounted above the refrigerator & b/w the end panels.

    There's not much you can do about the doors sticking out past the counters if you want to be able to open them fully!

    Oh, and if your refrigerator is against a wall, be sure the wall is either no deeper than the refrigerator carcass OR you have a 9" to 12" wide cabinet or cab + counter between the refrigerator and wall.


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    clipped on: 05.11.2010 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 05.11.2010 at 04:17 pm

    RE: Sillites Anyone? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: jsweenc on 04.22.2010 at 08:28 am in Kitchens Forum

    sabjimata, I'm going to check with my lighting person today, and if he doesn't have them or know where I can get them, I'm going to order them from the link below. I had Ughmold installed last week and I can't stand it, so I'm hoping these will work in its place.

    needsometips, we needsomepics! : )

    Here is a link that might be useful: Team Ace Online


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    clipped on: 04.26.2010 at 03:07 pm    last updated on: 04.26.2010 at 03:07 pm

    RE: Built-in Hutch Ideas/Photos? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: segbrown on 02.26.2010 at 06:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

    Ours is either 5 or 6 ft wide (can't remember).

    Photobucket

    Drawers hold flatware and napkins etc, cabinets hold trays and have pull-out shelves on bottom for holiday china and linens.

    Photobucket


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    clipped on: 04.25.2010 at 03:12 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2010 at 03:13 pm

    RE: Hiding Microwave in base cabinet? (Follow-Up #9)

    posted by: alku05 on 02.21.2009 at 05:27 pm in Appliances Forum

    We also put ours behind pocket doors. Doors open:

    Photobucket

    Doors closed:

    Photobucket


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    clipped on: 04.24.2010 at 11:50 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2010 at 11:50 pm

    RE: Hiding Microwave in base cabinet? (Follow-Up #2)

    posted by: chipshot on 02.18.2009 at 03:27 pm in Appliances Forum

    Our doors pocket on the sides. We rarely close them.
    Toaster oven and coffee maker live beneath the μ-wave.

    Photobucket


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    clipped on: 04.24.2010 at 11:49 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2010 at 11:49 pm

    RE: Hiding Microwave in base cabinet? (Follow-Up #1)

    posted by: clinresga on 02.18.2009 at 09:22 am in Appliances Forum

    It's above the oven, not in a base cab, but we did exactly what you're describing and are very happy with it:

    MW open

    MW closed


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    clipped on: 04.24.2010 at 11:48 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2010 at 11:48 pm

    RE: How do you store a LARGE collection of spices? (Follow-Up #36)

    posted by: cat_mom on 03.05.2008 at 09:57 am in Kitchens Forum

    Here's ours:

    spice drawer.jpg

    I keep my baking powder and soda, extracts, cream of tartar...in the cab above, with the flour, sugar, salts, and other similar things.


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    clipped on: 04.24.2010 at 05:57 pm    last updated on: 04.24.2010 at 05:57 pm

    RE: What type / style of Kitchen Sink ? (Follow-Up #5)

    posted by: francesca_sf on 04.15.2010 at 01:25 am in Kitchens Forum

    A company in Florida, Rachiele, www.rachiele.com/ builds sinks based on sound ergonomic principles, with the drain on one side so there is room for the garbage disposal and the trash bin. Here are the sink bowl depth they recommend based on user height:

    Under 5', bowl depth = 6 3/4"
    5'0" to 5'3", bowl depth = 7"
    5'4" to 5'5", bowl depth = 7 3/4"
    5'5" to 5'9", bowl depth = 8"
    5'9" to 5'11", bowl depth = 8"
    6'0" to 6'2", bowl depth = 7 1/2"
    6'2" and taller, bowl depth = 7"


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    clipped on: 04.19.2010 at 07:21 am    last updated on: 04.19.2010 at 07:22 am