Clippings by franksmom_2010

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RE: glue? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bobsmyuncle on 07.03.2013 at 08:38 am in Woodworking Forum

I regularly re-glue chairs. A friend of mine says there are two types of chairs -- chairs with loose joints and chairs that will have loose joints. (Rule 1)

First, rule out Gorilla Glue and other polyurethane glues. I've seen lots of failures and botched attempts with this. Under no circumstances would I use this.

I do not like to use epoxy except for special circumstances such as needing voids filled and the chair is unlikely to last until the next need to re-glue. It's also, IMO, not quite as reversible as other glues like PVAs (see Rule 1)

My favorite is to use white PVA like Elmer's. The reason I like the white is that it doesn't grab as quickly (AKA initial tack) and allows me to do a complex assembly and still do some alignment and squaring when it's all together. If it's just a joint or two, I wouldn't have a problem using Type I (Original Titebond, Elmer's Carpenter's Glue) or Type II (Titebond II or Titebond III, Gorilla Wood Glue (the off-white type))

If the chair is an older chair originally done with hide glue, I'll often use hide glue to re-glue as it reamalgamates itself. Hot hide glue has short closed assembly time, liquid (cold) hide glue has extremely long closed assembly time.

If I can't get into the joint, or it's too complex to get into the joint, I use Vertitas Chair Doctor glue. It's thin viscosity lets it wick in, swell the wood, and create a tight glue line.

Lots of choices...

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clipped on: 08.11.2013 at 09:32 am    last updated on: 08.11.2013 at 09:32 am

RE: How to create a style appropriate to a 1990s builder's house (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: palimpsest on 06.03.2013 at 08:20 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I think one of the mistakes with the seller's decor is that it essentially creates a horizon line of conventional ceiling height and completely ignores anything above 8 feet.

While Jacobsen does't really emphasize the upper volumes other than allowing them to exist, he doesn't visually cut them off either.

I think you could go a long way by painting the entire surface of the living space, all it's trim and ceiling included in a single white shade, and installing plantation shutters in the same shade.

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 09:10 pm

RE: Can I show off just a little? DIY Refinished floor (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: mabeldingeldine on 07.04.2013 at 10:06 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Details: The flooring is white oak, narrow strips. We sanded off the old finish which was worn through in many places. We did not stain, and it had not been previously stained, so this is the natural color including wear and tear. The previous finish was much more yellow.

We used Bona Floor Poly HD from Big Orange Box, it was $60/gallon, ten $ more than the non HD. This room gets heavy traffic and we decided the promised extra durability was worth the cost. It dries to a clear finish, and does not have the amber tint most oil-based poly has. We liked the clear finish which lets the floor grain be the star.

It went down amazingly easily with a foam pad and a roller. The first coat was easiest as you could readily see where the finish was. We did not use any pre-treatment just put the Bona Poly down on the bare wood. The first coat used much more poly than the subsequent coats.

Directions call for 2 hours of dry time, more in humidity (and it was humid and getting hotter each day). We gave it 3-4 hours between coats, and did 3 coats. Between each coat we sanded lightly with 220 grit paper on a drywall pole. The first coat raised the grain in 2-3 places and that needed more sanding, but the rest was smooth.

After sanding, we dust-mopped thoroughly with a new microfiber cloth. We bought a big bag of Quickie brand cloths at Big Orange Box, and used a new cloth with each pass until the last pass left the mop clean. Let me just say that room has NEVER been so clean and likely will not be ever again!

Having 2 people was helpful but not necessary. DH poured and used the pad on the edges, and I rolled. We watched a couple of You Tube videos before the get the gist. Pouring was difficult at first as the gallon was heavy and dripped, so we used a paper plate with a ziploc bag over it to set the jug of poly down. It took maybe 20 minutes for a 350+/- room to put the poly down.

The Bona was fabulous, very little scent, excellent self-leveling and really did dry in 2 hours. In 72 hours it will be fully cured, and we'll start moving in furniture. I can't speak to the long term durability but will report any problems.

Javachik this is TOTALLY DIY-able. It is a bit intimidating, but can be done by anyone who can read and follow directions. Even the sanding was DIY-friendly, other then renting the sanders --they are heavy. The edge sander was the least DIY friendly and IMO was no more useful than my orbital sander, so consider buying the best orbital sander and paper you can buy instead of renting an edge sander. Feel free to e-mail me with questions, I'm away a couple of times this summer but try and check my mail regularly.

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 12:39 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 12:40 pm

RE: Looking for Feedback on Temporary Floor and Kitchen Refresh ( (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: roobear on 06.10.2013 at 10:42 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I know it's possible to pull up hardwood flooring, but I don't think it's easy and it might damage some of the boards or finish on them, so you would have to most likely reinstall and refinish.

With your situation of having future construction plans with the home, I'm kind of thinking the plywood option isn't a bad idea, as it could be the underlament when you're ready to lay the hardwood flooring so you wouldn't have to remove it. I would think it would hold up fairly well for a few years with kids, pets, and construction, if you put decent poly on it.

Franksmom, the paint sprayer we bought is called a Graco TrueCoat II Plus (250.00 at Lowes). It's not at all like the cheaper Wagner paint sprayers you see, it's made by one of the best companies that make professional paint sprayers. It's a handheld (no stand) airless paint sprayer so it has a paint container attached to the gun. Because it's an airless type and not an HVLP type of sprayer, you don't have to thin latex paints, you can use them right out of the paint can, so you have much thicker coats/coverage in one pass when sprayed on. It's easier to clean (IMHO) and you can work with smaller amounts of paint because it has the paint cup attached to the gun instead of of stand type where you have tubes that feed from large gallon or 5 gallon paint cans.

There are different versions of the Graco Truecoat, we went with Truecoat II Plus because it has a flexible pump tube so you can tip the gun upwards or turn it sideways and the paint will still siphon to the sprayer (good for painting ceilings), and it offered an adjustable air pressure knob, so you can adjust the spray pressure for more control (a little less overspray) and for the thickness of the paint you're using. Also it is repairable, and you can buy parts for it, some of the older Truecoat models are not repairable.

They do sell different tips you can buy for the sprayer to give you different spray size and for different thicknesses of materials (latex paint vs thin stain), they also make a larger container cup, a back pack attachment kit that can hold up to a gallon of paint so you don't have to use the container cup attachment and refill as often. You can also purchase more plastic bag cup liners so cleanup is easier.

The cons to this sprayer are, it's heavy because the paint container is attached to the gun, you have to refill more often because it uses a smaller amount of paint at a time, and you get more overspray and go through paint much faster than you do with an HVLP sprayer because it's airless. The overspray will be decent so make sure you mask/cover things well when using. Clean up takes about 20-30 min and you have to make sure you take the time to do it properly, and masking/covering to protect from overspray can take some time, however the upside is you can paint 10 doors in about 10 min with it.

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clipped on: 08.04.2013 at 12:26 pm    last updated on: 08.04.2013 at 12:28 pm

my3dog's valance

posted by: debbimc on 03.27.2009 at 10:46 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have a new sewing machine!(actually its used)! I have searched to find any visuals on constructing MY3D's beautiful valance---I thought I saw a post that pictures were going to be posted-but I can't find them. I am terribly visual-I have read thru the directions but I could sure use a visual! LOL...or any other pointers. I am a novice sewer! OOPs..is that sewer like you know.. a septic sewer. I meant...I am a sewing novice. LOL It is snowing very heavy at my house right now..lovely

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clipped on: 09.23.2012 at 04:49 pm    last updated on: 09.23.2012 at 04:50 pm

Problem getting right shade of red

posted by: nyboy on 09.06.2012 at 09:45 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Is there any color harder then red to get right? I would like a red front door, thought it would be easy. Go to store look at paint chips pick one. I have so many samples of red paint and a door that looks like a crime sence. The red never drys the same on door as paint chip. Any sercets on picking a ahade of red?

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clipped on: 09.08.2012 at 10:55 pm    last updated on: 09.08.2012 at 10:55 pm