Below is a kelvin chart....look for "k" on the packaging and it will tell you how warm the light will be from the bulb...

Also CFLs do not dim well so if you have dimmers, go with incandescents.

If you see the bulbs then you might want frosted to reduce the glare, but in chandys, you might want the clear if they are reflecting light from crystals.

Perhaps the link below will help...

Here is a link that might be useful: Light bulb buying guide

I've also bought three panels, split one, and added those half-widths to the outside edges of the other two to get the proper fullness for a given window. (That only works if the pattern is matched across all the panels, or if there's no repeating pattern.)

And I've done as graywings suggests, and added bulk at the top with strips of interlining - the stuff you use in jacket lapels to make them lie well. The ready-made tape is fine if its width is right for your panels.

There are actually entire texts on ergonomics and "correct" heights and such for things but they are far too specific for most purposes (and out of date somewhat because people are taller and fatter than they were even a few decades ago.)

Placement/ layout
1. Cans should be > 24 to 30 inches from the wall (on center). Most countertop spaces have upper cabinets (typically ~ 12" deep) + crown molding. The edge of the can may be spaced ~ 12" away from the edge of the crown molding (if present or cabinet if there is no crown molding) making the average distance between 26 to 30 inches.

2. Assuming the need for a fairly uniformly lit space @ 35 lumens per sq ft, the cans may have to be spaced closer together - between 3 - 4 ft apart (if all general lighting is provided by recessed lights). A fairly regular pattern is preferable to a random layout.

3. The actual layout of cans will be impacted by the location of ceiling joists, HVAC ducting, electrical wiring, plumbing, ceiling height, fire suppression sprinklers and other obstructions above the ceiling.

Dimming
The Cree LR6 series lamps do not dim as well as the later models (CR6, ...). ELV dimmers probably work better with LR6 than incandescent dimmers since the total load of the lights may not meet the minimum load requirement for the incandescent dimmer.

Dimmers such as the Lutron Diva CL dimmers work well. The max output is 95%.

Some Choices (in order of preference) and notes
Cree CR6 or ECO-575 (Home Depot branded CR6)
ECO4-575 (Home Depot branded Cree CR4 4" recessed light)
The above are only available in 2700k light color.

Cree LR6 series - including the LE6.

The Cree CR6 and LR6 lamps will not fit into 5" housings.

The standard LR6 behaves more like a surface mount than a recessed light as the LED emitters are close to the surface and the recess is shallow. Some may not like the amount of light spillage (standard LR6).

There is a higher output version of the LR6 that has a much deeper recess.

To prevent the Cree lamps from falling out, the 3 prongs have to be fully extended and a slight clockwise twist made when push installing. The slight clockwise twist will ensure that the prongs are fully extended.

The Cree lamps are currently the best available today (2012).

Sylvania RT-6, RT-4. The lights could be easier to install than Cree lamps as they utilize the torsion spring mechanism. However, the lights do not look as pleasant as the Cree lamps.

The Cree and Sylvania lamps do outperform 26W CFLs (and incandescents) in a standard recessed can in terms of light spread and output as the standard bulb in a can solution traps a significant amount of light. The Cree and Sylvania recessed lamp solutions referenced above have all the LED elements facing outwards so that the effective light output is higher.

The CRI (Color Rendition Index) of Cree and Sylvania recessed lamps > 80.

There is no warm up time required for Cree recessed lamps, unlike CFL light bulbs.

Most recessed lighting is used with flat ceilings. Sloped ceilings would require special solutions such as the LE6 or some other form of lighting (i.e. -non recessed lighting).

Some common objections to recessed can lights stem from
1. looks and performance of traditional can lights (standard bulb in a can)
2. swiss cheese effect from too many holes.

Let me tell you about another terrible Chinese import: Pine nuts.

One day, I tried to buy some Italian pine nuts at an upscale grocery store. They told me the Mediterranean nuts had gotten way too expensive, so they sampled me with a bag of the Chinese ones (I knew the manager). I used them to make dinner.

The next day, we were meeting an old friend for wine and a nosh. Before we met up, I was positive that my breath smelled like a dog's, because my mouth sure tasted like the other end of one. I popped into a CVS to buy one of those disposable toothbrush/toothpaste things. They look like a suppository with bristles, so I wasn't surprised at how they tasted.

We're at dinner, and the wine is just awful. Somebody else tries it, says it's fine and takes over the glass. The food was pretty bad, too, and this was an expensive restaurant. The only thing I liked was the fries, although everybody else found them too oversalted to eat.

Starting to see a pattern, here?

It wasn't my breath. It wasn't the food, or the wine. Every thing I put in my mouth tasted like a chewed aspirin. Bitter as hell. Sweets. Savories. Coffee. Booze. Everything tasted like chemicals. Only salt was OK.

Like any self-respecting modern hypochondriacal American, I go home and Google "bitter taste." Up come page after page of hits, all with the same phrase in them: "Pine mouth." It is a mini-epidemic. Seriously. It's called a taste inversion, and it can last for weeks. And it's caused by only one thing--Chinese pine nuts.

Fast forward a few days, and I've got Mulder and Scully in my apartment. Seriously. Two FDA agents in blue jackets with "FDA" in those huge, white letters on the back. Apparently the helicopters were circling too high up for me to hear. I can only imagine what my neighbors thought. Especially when they emerged carrying a package of pine nuts in an evidence bag. I am not making this up.

So, the bottom line is, yes, this is a known health issue being investigated by the FDA. No one knows what Chinese pine nuts actually are--they are clearly not identical to European pine nuts, or perhaps they are processed or stored differently. No one can identify what in the nut is causing the reaction, or why some people eating them will be affected, and some won't. Or whether there are any long term effects.

One thing I do know: if this import came from any other country but China, you'd all have heard about this on the news by now.

Well, sort of. They don't call it a CR4, but for all practical purposes, the new Ecosmart ECO4-575L is the new little brother of the highly-regarded CR6. For whatever reason, Cree doesn't seem to be selling these under their own brand name yet, but just as well since Home Depot's Ecosmart-branded versions are usually less expensive, and appear to be identical except for a slightly shorter warranty.

The ECO4-575L somehow managees to be just as bright, and maybe even more efficient than its larger relative. The box shows it draws only 9.5 watts (one watt less than the CR6), and matches the CR6's 575 lumens, incandescent-matching 2700K color, 90 CRI with Cree's TrueWhite technology, 35,000 hour life, 3 year warranty from HD, integral white recessed trim and diffuser, instant on, and dimmability (not specified how low, but the CR6 dims all the way down to 5%). As with the CR6, it has a standard Edison base, but a GU24 version is available for those on the left coast.

This definitely not a clone of the LR4 - it's a new design with three rotating clips to hold it into place, though the clips are much smaller and less obtrusive than on the CR6. The trim is 4 7/8" diameter, and the internals are just under 3" wide and designed to install in "most standard and shallow 4 in. cans". The Energy Star site (at http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=ssl.display_products_res_text ) shows Cree's published specifications to be conservative, with the government's tests showing both the 4" and 6" downlights producing at least 585 lumens from only 9.1 watts. If there's any downer, it's that there's more glare than with the CR6, a natural result given that the same brightness of light is emanating from a smaller area (about 2 1/2" diameter) and it's also less deeply recessed than in the CR6 (about 1" rather than 2"). And perhaps because it's still new, it sells for $50 at HD whilst the CR6's price has dropped to $40 (both may be priced lower if your locale has incentives in places). Still, it's the best looking 4" LED module I've yet seen.

HD has a cheaper 4" LED module sold under their Commercial Electric brand, but it's 3000K and lower CRI and looks a bit cold compared to incandescent/halogen downlights, although they have the advantage of being usuable in wet locations and have a nice-looking anodyzed brushed nickel as well as white finishes available.

Fabulous! Our electrician loved them...a breeze to install. They look great and are very bright. I don't dim them cuz of the way I work, but could and might for "mood." Environmental Lights is terrific...great service. You can buy a sample with a cord to plug in to see how they look.

Re the dimmer The EL website tells you what they recommend. It's a pretty standard Lutron...you just need to get the one the recommend. You can buy them from EL; our electrician provided them. But if you have questions, just call EL...they are very helpful.

I've posted a similar message in another thread and will probably bore you all silly by doing it again in the future. But we could not be happier. I spent a lot of time looking at LEDs.

When I first put these on the bed I had to redirect the fan so it doesn't blow directly on the bed, plus raise the thermostat a few degrees. The heat-difference was amazing!

Here is a link that might be useful: crisp sheets

The house is a 1924 Tudor. Not very big by today's standards (<2K sq ft), but had a kitchen and breakfast room that we could remodel into a single kitchen without adding on. The total space is about 16' x 12'. Here's the rough floorplan we worked from:

Cabinets: http://www.seattlecustomcabinets.com/
Highly recommended if you're in the Seattle area! In addition to making beautiful, high quality cabinets, it was Tim who came up with a lot of the cool storage ideas like taking advantage of the interior walls.

Compost Bin: Blanco Solon. http://www.blancocanada.com/frames/BlancoStart.htm#/pages/wasteManagement.htm
It's out of Canada but there are US .com vendors if you do a web search.

Tile: Oregon Tile & Marble's Isole line. They have a showroom in Seattle, but also sell through retail tile stores. http://www.oregontileandmarble.com/ & http://www.oregontileandmarble.com/Tear%20Sheets/IE%20Lanka%20Isole_2pg.pdf

Here's a closeup of the backsplash:

Hardware is all in polished nickel (except the glass filler, which was the only one we could find that didn't require two hands and was only available in chrome).

Cabinet latches: http://www.lookintheattic.com/vhln250.html
We chose ones with large knobs on the advice of our cabinet maker (who said as we got older our hands might have a harder time turning a smaller knob).

Drawer pulls (incl fridge) are Restoration Hardware Aubrey: http://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod1283069&categoryId=cat1512023

Hinges are White Chapel Ball-tip: http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/category/lpbtfch.html

Paint:
Cabinets/trim are Benjamin Moore Bavarian Cream
Walls are C2 Sugar Cookie
Ceiling Benjamin Moore Paper Mache

Counter: Some sort of Brazilian Soapstone. I wouldn't recommend our fabricator. If you're shopping for soapstone, definitely bring a water bottle / damp cloth with you and view each piece wet. Ours was light grey when we bought it, but turned almost jet black when we oiled it with mineral oil, and the damp cloth gave us a much better idea of the final color.

Sink: Franke GNX-110-28. http://www.frankeksd.com/productdetail.php?prodid=71&node=10&group=53&lvl=3
This was one of the few sinks we could find with a drain in the corner. The corner drain allows the plumbing to be tucked away in a corner and gives you much more usable space under the sink. Here's a shot of the sink and the usable space underneath:

Appliances:
DISHWASHER: Miele G 2183 SCVi
REFRIGERATOR: Sub-Zero 700TCi LH
HOOD: Vent-a-Hood SLH9-130SS
MAIN OVEN: Miele H4780BPSS
STEAM OVEN: Miele DG4080SS
COOKTOP: Miele KM5753+

Just let me know if you have other questions- I'm happy to tell the good and bad and it's the least I can do after all the help this forum has given me. :)

Again narrow down the color of the cabs & island. Then post
an image and I can help you with some specific ideas.
Ellen Kennon Edgewood Green Walls

creamy cabs with a dark green ubatuba like granite

Well seasoned style idea blog

Goldenstraw by Benjamin Moore is a soft creamy yellow
based paint that looks lovely with the flecs in the
Verde Butterfly

Rich Cream Benjamin Moore another soft creamy color
with an undertone of yellow especially next to green/blk

Naples cream
A beautiful color but I am not sure if it will look
great with dark blk like green and cream cabs..

delete "uppers" on the wall, because you have enough storage volume in drawers,
and you can add some of them back in later to make proportions right, and to add interest or accents.

sinks
made of
coffee silgranite,
anthracite silgranite,
porcelain,
soapstone,
enameled cast iron.
not stainless (some people have been known to rub them all the time like they were the barrels of their weapon of choice)
Not biscuit silgranite (shows smudges long after it's basically clean).

If one sink
then
with multiples sources of water.
No need to let a single faucet be the bottleneck spot.

an IHW
a filtered water tap
a chiller (not in the fridge)
a faucet that mixes regular "mains" water (hot and cold lines)
another mixer valve for a hose and spray "wand" with toggle

Two fridges,
one being near the sink nearest the cooktop; this could be drawers under counter.
one being where "other people" will go get things and not disturb the cook or the flow.
Preferably one is passive cooling (nothing dries out there; good for cheeses and organics)

Say "no" to side by side fridge/freezers.
The space always feels tight.
The space is always narrow.

a dishwasher drawer,
and
an 18" or 24" full height dishwasher

in the basement:
a chest freezer
(passive cooling, not frost-free: no freezer burn)

Drawers as "deep" to back wall as possible. E.g. Tandembox 650mm length
This dimension is distance to back wall, not the height of drawer.
And counters 29" or 30".

All Drawers, everywhere, even under the sink.
Wide drawers.

Lots of HVAC appropriately planned long in advance.
A big canopy for the extraction fan.
Lots of MUA for when the fan is on "high".

--

Spider, here are notes i've made, in terms of what is most maintenance-free.
This might be good to have on hand when discussing with DH your SO.

What
shows smudges least / most
makes clean happen / the opposite
looks neat not messy / the opposite
looks OK even if dirty / looks still dirty when it's basically clean
easy to clean, and time is little / hard or takes time

--

/ is used to separate categories
, commas, are to keep a number of things, in the same category

Here we go.

counter clutter: slim vase for an eye target flower, glass bowl with fruit / with toaster oven, coffee maker, coffee grinder, salt / with canisters and mixer
faucet: laminar flow (cause splashes) / aerated flow and strong / aerated flow shaped to reduce splashback
configuration: sink and cooktop on same counter / on separate counters (sweep floor more often)
faucet mounting: wall / on counter / on counter with escutcheon (ring around faucet base) or wide plate
faucet finish: brushed / matt smooth / smooth and shiny / shiny chrome (polished chrome)
floor color: beige, mottled, marbled / medium, dark / creamy, off-white / white
floor material: laminate, marmoleum, linoleum, vinyl / wood / tile
appliance finishes in general: black mottled / bisque mottled / white mottled / brushed / smooth
brushed stainless finish: this is hard to describe with an appropriate adjective, but go touch high price appliances and notice how they don't show finger marks!
paint finish in low grease areas: matt / semi-gloss, pearl / high gloss
paint finish in high grease areas: semi-gloss, pearl / high gloss / matt
backsplash: rough surface tile (stone) / brushed stainless / matt or mottled glass, smooth tile / shiny tile / shiny glass / mirror
backsplash tile pattern: square / running bond (alternating; doesn't align grout lines)
grout: unsealed / sealed / epoxy
walls and "upper" cabinet fronts: solid / glass front cabinets / open shelving and open storage
cabinet fronts: slab / shaker / panels and beading / fluted or other detailed woodwork
vent hood type: recirculating with charcoal filter / exhausts outside and noisy / same and silent at lower speeds
vent hood material: steel / glass
vent hood fan: propellor blades / squirrel cage / same and powerful and with make-up air provided in whole house HVAC
microwave: no turntable / with turntable
electric cooktop : radiant / induction
electric cooktop color: white / black
oven: hidden coils / exposed coils
gas cooktop: sealed burners / open burners
countertop positioning: overhangs forward over the drawer fronts (no drips on them) / cut to be flush (drips go on the drawer fronts and dribble from there)
countertop make: factory-made quartz / soapstone (hard, not soft) / slate, granite, quartzite / wood / marble / limestone, travertine
sink: brushed stainless, ceramic, enameled cast, dark color silgranite / flat finish stainless, light color silgranite
sink mounting: mounted from underneath with counter on top / mounted from above so sink rim sits on top of counter
light placement: several sources and types of light, dimmable / a row of lights over the counter / one central light (never makes good shadows), or washing light down a mediocre wall (shows wall off, but only good if wall is good)
suspended lighting: pendants that one can clip off and put in the dishwasher / pendants easy to wipe down / ornate
embedded light: tube fluorescent, LED's / embedded incandescent (xenon, halogen) / puck add-ons

zones:
storage (pantry) somewhere removed from the cooking and cleaning action triangle / storage close to or inside the action triangle / no pantry, storage mixed up everywhere
two clear counter areas at least 36" each / one counter area clear for at least 48" / small pieces of counter interrupted by sink, cooktop, ends
a central or isolated triangle, with small fridge (for the cook) / a central triangle with the only fridge / a triangle mixed up with pantry and prep zones
sink and cooktop have elbow room on both sides / sink and cooktop have no counter on one side

main aisle:
for one person or two who know how to get along well:
41"-44" aisle / three inches more or less than this / 35"-37" aisle / aisle 49" or wider (too many steps)
for three or more, or for two who are not well coordinated:
add 3 inches to the above numbers
(of course this all assumes that one likes a small triangle for the cook)

layout:
with straight runs that end at the wall / with corner cabinets wrapping around a corner

Some of these notes above might not be spot on.
I'm not a KD.
I've hired them, and hired bathroom designers and cabinet designers too.
Everyone has their own opinions.
None ever satisfied me, because I'm unusual in several ways, and I think they used that to pump fees (for conversations and proposals) instead of working with me.
I got along great with most of the tradesmen.
I learned a lot about plumbing and tile setting when I remodeled bathrooms.
I learned it on the web and from the trades.

I figured I would focus more on what kitchen renovators might know that I didn't know, and that is how I ended up here.

HTH

1. When will you be posting your comleted pics? I can't WAIT to see your kitchen. (Or did I miss it somehow?)

2. Please post a link to your blog; our tastes seem very similar and I'm sure your blog would be a goldmine of ideas for me.

Gina: I personally find subway tile much more interesting with a darker grout, like so:

The trick here is to space the tiles very close together and use a medium-to-dark gray grout, not black, which would be too stark a contrast.

To use the URLs below, copy & paste the URL into the "Address" box of your browser.

I'm not sure if this will last long, but here are some of the missing threads:

• Designer faucets -- are they better quality? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg032055159933.html
  Posted by: sayde on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 20:55


• How Long did your kitchen remodel take? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0318165529062.html
  Posted by: sabjimata on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:16


• Finished farm kitchen - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0321573327628.html
  Posted by: pinch_me on Thu, Mar 18, 10 at 21:57


• opinion on granite choice needed please! - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0312272619448.html
  Posted by: heather720 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 12:27


• dark or light? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0318164528682.html
  Posted by: lola77 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:16


• 99% Finished Cherry Kitchen (Before and After) - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1214362612566.html
  Posted by: 8 on Thu, Dec 10, 09 at 14:36


• The Intimidation Issue - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0319581526795.html
  Posted by: warmfridge on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 19:58


• What do you love best about your kitchen - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0300061628236.html
  Posted by: danielle84 on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 0:06


• Granite yard/fabricators recs in NJ - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0317371720838.html
  Posted by: roxy2007 on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 17:37


• substitute for this walker zanger tile? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0310410710205.html
  Posted by: november on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:41


• Knobs vs Handles - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg030030185075.html
  Posted by: ladypie on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 0:30


• granite fabrication questions..what do you think! - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031929019928.html
  Posted by: rubyvine on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 19:29


• Thoughts on choice of granite - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031539429959.html
  Posted by: motleydog on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 15:39


• hello! some first questions... - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031716127845.html
  Posted by: thndersnow on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 17:16


• Getting new counters after 25 years - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031919281712.html
  Posted by: dee4nebraska on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 19:19


• Honed granite reviews??? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0316002217552.html
  Posted by: aswierk on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 16:00


• mystery granite--more photos, please help identify if you can - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0302394515364.html
  Posted by: chipongo on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 2:39


• Granite is in! Please, please help now with backsplash - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0310461326669.html
  Posted by: tbosshar on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:46


• Sealers modify color of granite??? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031204027043.html
  Posted by: danielle84 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 12:04


• Is it me that's nutty or is it my designer? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0301382117830.html
  Posted by: lissbell on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 1:38


• Good grief : sinks, pots and induction cooktops - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0318343632061.html
  Posted by: sochi on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 18:34


• Island Granite in--White Quartz pics! - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0301505316144.html
  Posted by: firsthouse_mp on Sat, Mar 20, 10 at 1:50


• 12'' or 14'' deep cabinets? 15'' - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg030200418905.html
  Posted by: sherriz on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 2:00


• Would love some opinions on my kitchen plan - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031542261923.html
  Posted by: periwinkle18 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 15:42


• kitchen faucets - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0316425431928.html
  Posted by: nimela on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 16:42


• I love my sink!! - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg032139048598.html
  Posted by: plllog on Tue, Mar 16, 10 at 21:39


• Recessed cans 12 or 18 inches from cabinets? - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031009006471.html
  Posted by: tartan22 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 10:09


• Planning my Kitchen Renovation - Tile layout in North Vancouver - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg031334491383.html
  Posted by: johnfrwhipple on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 13:34


• What light bulbs do you use for your island pendantsi - http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0311201612171.html
  Posted by: joep_2009 on Sun, Mar 21, 10 at 11:20

Clunch, Old White and Off White work really well together and currently they are my favorite picks for the interior of my house to-be-built. Someone asked about Clunch... It is neutral and very versatile. I sleep in it every night; I tried it on the walls AND trim and I've never grown tired of it. Very mutable color. Sometimes it is so lovely, I could EAT it! Think of a pale, subtle, cafe au lait. Looks gorgeous with dark mahogany wood (as well as other more orangey wood colors like maple), pale Robin's Egg blue/green, and antiqued gold. You can stand in a room with it and all four walls look different as they pick up reflected light from different sources and objects.

Also, Off White is exquisite. It was used in a show house recently and I recognized it the minute I saw it (and I did not know they had used F&B paints until I saw them on the walls). It says a lot for a paint color when you can walk into a house and recognize it. This color is simply dazzling. Off White changes with the light and can have a beautiful greenish/grey (think lambs ears) element that comes through at times. Very, VERY subtle and extremely versatile color. I plan to try more of it.

For me, in addition to being deeper in hue, Old white is a little warmer than Off White. I think there is plenty of contrast, ESPECIALLY if one color is trim and the other wall. If you like it, for something a little greener/greyer, look at French Grey as well.

I'd say that Lime White is another color that carries tones similar to those this group.

Also, compared to the group above, White Tie appears warmer with more of a yellow base (my husband loves it) and is wonderful combined with Pointing which is absolutely beautiful, but, perhaps more "modern" and cleaner than the Old W, Off W, and Clunch. White Tie is gorgeous with traditional and antique wood furnishings.

I have had ALL of these on the walls here.

I've tried more that you've mentioned, including the light blues (which would look lovely with Off White)... however, I'm late and I've got to run for now. Sounds like a wonderful project ahead!

Go to the lighting store (not Lowe's or HD) and look at them.

So I would suggest Juno, with the Alzak wheat haze trim.

My 2 cents.

Reguarding the debate about traditional/repro kitchen in Europe ...

Altough I do not pretend to sum up the feelings of 350,000,000 Europeans, my feeling is that if traditional kitchens do exist here, their market share is tiny.

From what I've seen, traditional kitchens are used only at both ends of the market spectrum : either in working-class tract houses or upper-class country houses (Marie-Antoinette @ Le Petit Trianon syndrome).

I live in a new masterplanned community, and although the architecture of the complex itself is traditional (reproduction of 19th/18th centuries French houses/buildings), all my neighbours have contemporary kitchens, even the ones who favored traditional furniture to decorate their home.

Furthermore, what would qualify as "traditionnal" for my French eye would certainly be seen as transitional on this forum. A doorstyle like Adel white/birch from Ikea is seen as pretty traditionnal here, I do believe that anything more traditional and ornate than a painted Shaker door would qualify as "kitsch" for most people I know here.

"Hardcore" traditional kitchens, with a lot of carvings, moldings, staggered upper cabinets, are unseen here and look very strange for me.

But I believe that the main difference between American and European kitchens is that we prefer to mix and match rather than reproducing one style. For instance, I often see people on this forum wondering if they can mix different finishes for their hardware, light fixtures and plumbing fixtures, whereas from a European point of view, mixing styles and finishes is the way to go (putting a chandelier in a modern kitchen or a 1970s pendant in a traditional kitchen).

The hole you see in the side of the floor drain is probably a tee that runs to your foundation drain system.

Here are a few before pics:

Here’s what the kitchen looks like now:

We tried to be true to the period of the house (1925 craftsman bungalow) without being rigid about it. In our effort to make the kitchen somewhat authentic, we kept the original floors, light shades, and built-in ironing board. We also chose inset cabinets and polished nickel hardware. No one would mistake it for the original kitchen, but it does feel like it belongs. We couldn’t have done it without help from countless posters on this forum. Thanks for all the help.

Here are the details on the new kitchen:

Floors – refinished original fir
Cabinets – Brookhaven Louisburg
Cabinet latches – Crown Hardware (polished nickel)
Countertops – Soapstone
Backsplash – Subway Ceramics
Faucet – Cifial Highlands Wall-Mount (polished nickel)
Sink – Rohl Fireclay single bowl
Light fixtures – Original shades in new fixtures from Rejuvenation
Undercabinet lighting – Pegasus xenon pucks
Paint – Benjamin Moore Weston Flax

Appliances:

Dishwasher - Bosch Integrated 4 cycle SHV46-C13UC
Range - Bosch Integra Pro Electric Range HEI7282
Range Hood - Zephyr Hurricane
Refrigerator - Fisher & Paykel E522B

These are the specs:
Cabinets: custom flush inset by local shop
Paint: cabinets - BM Mayonnaise (also on ceiling & trim)
walls - BM Potpourri Green
Stove: DCS 36" 6-burner all-gas range with low backguard (required by my local code)
Hood: Vent-a-Hood Excalibur, 36" in Biscuit
Fridge: Amana 36" cabinet-depth top-mount
Dishwasher: Bosch Integra SHX57C03UC with custom panel
Sink: Franke fireclay sink, 28 inches
Faucet: Chicago faucet wall-mount in polished nickel
Soap dispenser: Rohl Perrin & Rowe LS850P (with NeverMT)
Airswitch: Franke, in black
Drawer handles/Door knobs: House of Antique Hardware black glass hexagonal knobs & bridge pulls
Countertop: Belvedere soapstone from M. Teixeira in San Francisco
Tile: Subway Ceramics 3x6 subway tile, Daltile black liner & 3/4" round, green liner "dots" from B&W tile in Riverside, CA
Floor: Marmoleum in Butter with Coffee accent strip
Light fixtures: Skidmore pendants and Jefferson ceiling fixture, from Rejuvenation
Undercabinet lights: LEDs from LEDtronics
Outlet covers, pushbutton switches and switchplate: House of Antique Hardware

Glass for new window and cabinet doors: salvaged wavy glass

Here is a link that might be useful: Jgarner53's kitchen