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The perfect bed

posted by: holly-kay on 12.18.2014 at 09:50 am in Home Decorating & Design Forum

I have been on a quest for years for the perfect bed. After all these years I finally have it. Excuse the length of this post but so many here are on the same quest that I thought it would be good to share.

The components that I consider part of the perfect bed is:

mattress (imo, the most important)
bed linens
mattress pad

The first perfect component that I found was my mattress. I wanted a Tempurpedic but all of them seemed way too firm. Like lying on wet sand, not comfy at all. I then looked at Sleep Number and I just couldn't commit. I saw an ad in a mag introducing the new Tempurpedic Cloud. That sounded perfect because I like a supportive but soft mattress. After testing at Sleepy's I bought the Cloud Luxe model. The off gassing was awful but when it finally abated I knew I had made the perfect choice as far as the mattress was concerned. I ALWAYS sleep hot but the Cloud wasn't any hotter than my old mattress. This mattress is the perfect combo of softness and support. I sleep the night through and wake with no aches and pains.

I hated the supposedly waterproof mattress protector that Sleepy's insisted you had to have to not void the warranty. It was thin and didn't fit the mattress well there were always crinkles in it that made me feel as though I was sleeping on a ridge of rock but before I addressed that problem I needed new bed linens.

I hate the feel of sateen sheets. Each time I bought a different set it seemed that it was worse than the last. Doing a google search I found a link from GW about the quest for crisp sheets. Thomas Lee sounded good and I requested a sample. They seemed nice but I couldn't pull the trigger on them. Then Violet mentioned how much she loves linen sheets. The RL looked great so again I requested a sample. Hmmmm the strong white looked to be exactly what I was looking for but the price made me gag. I ordered a set of Pima cotton sheets from LL Bean and they were the best so far but still not perfect. Several months went by and I kept pulling my RL sample out and caressing the fabric. I decided to take the plunge knowing this was either the smartest bedding decision I ever made or the most expensive bedding mistake I ever made. The RL website pushed me over the edge and I ordered the summer bed set in strong white. The set was beautifully tied with grosgrain ribbon and smelled heavenly because of the lavender sachet that was included. Once they went on my bed I knew I had a winner.

My pillows were driving me crazy. I was using down pillows but they flattened and weren't comfortable after a short period of use. Then I tried, what seemed like, every memory foam pillow made including the very expensive Tempurpedic pillows that I bought with my mattress. They were so hard it was like resting my head on a block of granite. They all made my head so hot that I couldn't sleep. My final memory foam pillow was one with a cooling gel pad in it. This was better but still not good. I posted about pillows here and Tib suggested the Natura Ultimate Latex pillow. I ordered one to make sure I liked it before ordering a second one. I loved it the first night but it seemed just a tad high but by the second night I knew I had a winner.

My last purchase was a new mattress pad. This was the easiest purchase. I saw a pad carried by The Company Store. It was supposed to be a cooling mattress pad because of the way it was manufactured. Since I always sleep hot this sounded perfect because it wicks the moisture away keeping you cooler. From the first night it was a winner.

I now have the perfect bed. The last thing I purchased to add even more comfort was a very quiet air circulator to help keep me cool in the summer.


clipped on: 12.18.2014 at 01:15 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2014 at 01:15 pm

New To Kitchens? Posting Pics? Read Me! [Help keep on Page 1]

posted by: buehl on 09.18.2011 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Welcome! If you are new to the Kitchens Forum, you may find the following information and links helpful.

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)/Articles pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets. Access the FKB Categories Page via a link in the navigation panel on the right of any FKB page. Additionally, there is also a link to "In-Progress Kitchens" for those members' kitchens that are not quite ready for the FKB. There is also a link to "Coming Soon Kitchens" for those kitchens that are ready for the FKB but have not yet been added. To access the "In-Progress Kitchens", the "Coming Soon Kitchens", and the "FKB Categories", see the links in the navigation panel that is on the right side of each main FKB page.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the kitchen remodel process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as layouts, planning for storage, and stone materials are discussed in later topics in this thread. Even more information can be found by doing a search on the forum.


  • Before posting a question, please search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.

  • When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!

  • Note, however, that you will probably have better luck searching if you use Google (or similar search engine) than if you use the Forum search function. When using Google, to limit your results to Garden Web, include the following in your search criteria: ***

  • In the Subject, the site changes the double quote used as the inches indicator (") to a single quote ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single quotes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.

  • When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:

    • Have replies emailed to you: check the box offering this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page) [See the post later in this thread with the Subject: Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process]

    • Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.

  • When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.

How are the home page and the Forum organized? (based on the Kitchen Forum's FAQs entries)

  • The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. After the unanswered threads, threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, the unanswered thread usually starts to drop.)
  • Below the thread list are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.
  • Below that (and at the top of the thread list as well) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but are not nearly as active.
  • Next down is a Search box -- very important! This is also the Search box you should use (not the one at the top of the page.)
    • Always refresh the page two or three times b/f assuming a thread has disappeared right after starting it.
    • As to searching...a thread will not be found doing a GW search for up to 24 hours after it has been started. This may seem too technical, but...searches are done against what are known as "indexes". Indexes use key fields/words to find things. iVillage only indexes threads once a day. So, that means that until your thread is "indexed", it won't show up in a search. If you start a thread just before the index is taken, you will be able to retrieve your thread by searching soon after creation. If, however, you start your thread right after the daily index, then you will have to wait almost 24 hours for the next index.

  • Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally there are some instructions and links at the bottom.

Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It is for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.

Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togethers and non-kitchen subjects.

Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen. (Note: This is where StarPooh, our FKB person, wants you to post your finished kitchen prior to having it added to the FKB.)

Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun and very rewarding in the end!


clipped on: 03.27.2014 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 03.27.2014 at 10:52 am

Remember this birthday party game? (Toto Maris toilet review)

posted by: enduring on 01.12.2014 at 05:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

You remember the birthday party game...

where you took one of these
 photo clothespins_zps5cb80d13.jpg

and dropped them into one of these
 photo canningjar_zpsa802246b.jpg

to accomplish this to win the game
 photo clothespinsandmasonjar_zps748bf839.jpg

not this
clothes pin across jar photo clothespinacrossjar_zps91b1b17d.jpg

Well you can lose at this game with the Toto Maris.

This luxury Toto toilet with a washlet looks like the inside of my Toto Maris (without the washlet).
toilet in london hotel photo viewinsidetoiletlikemaris_zps2ef10e7c.jpg

The water level is only a few inches above the bottom. The long cylinder is like a jar and about 4.5" wide and about 7 or so inches tall. So if BM (not the paint brand) is longer than 4.5" it can form a bridge, spanning across left to right. You need to use something to snap the span. It could be another segment of excrement, but if you only had the one, you'll need to find another solution. Flushing multiple times does not help to float it into position, as the water spot never rises very high.

BTW, And whatever you use, don't flush it down the toilet unless it is TP.

And I want to thank Google Images for providing all the pictures for this thread. This way I can remain anonymous with this sensitive topic :)

And BTotherW, I just couldn't bring myself to use the word "turd".

This post was edited by enduring on Sun, Jan 12, 14 at 19:10


clipped on: 03.09.2014 at 11:35 am    last updated on: 03.09.2014 at 11:36 am

RE: If you have wood floors in bath -- would you do it again? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: xxxxOldTimeCarpenter on 05.26.2013 at 06:26 pm in Bathrooms Forum

With modern urethane finishes, wood works very well in a bath. I have wood in one of my baths and in my kitchen. Never a problem.

Keep in mind, however, that while the hardwood flooring will handle standing water, the OSB or plywood subfloor will not, so mop up pools immediately.

For a complete review of flooring options for baths and kitchens, with durability ratings, follow the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Floor Iptions for Kitchens and Baths


clipped on: 05.26.2013 at 08:55 pm    last updated on: 05.26.2013 at 08:56 pm

RE: Cost of Frameless Shower Door (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Jill_77 on 08.20.2005 at 12:42 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I have a 3/8" thick tempered enclosure (2 sides glass). One side is 4'w x 8' high, other is 6'6"w x 8' high. I have the heaviest duty (and therefore most expensive) hinges because the door is 34" wide, plus there's a working transom over the door. Installed price = $1600. (That does not include the handle, which I purchased elsewhere and they installed.) Other quotes ranged from $2500-$4000. Most all glass companies use the same supplier (CR Laurence) for the hardware. FWIW, I priced it out on, and it was much higher (although I did order the real chrome glass channel from them, and they are very nice to deal with.) Shop around, look for small glass companies that are maybe not in the best part of town, and you'll probably find a huge savings.
Image hosted by


clipped on: 04.03.2013 at 09:26 am    last updated on: 04.03.2013 at 09:26 am

A year in the making. My new kitchen w/pics

posted by: oldhouse1 on 09.11.2011 at 08:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our home is a simple 1840 Canadiana. We were living life quite comfortably when we drove by a home we always jokingly said we would buy if it ever went up for sale. Well, there it was, a big for sale sign in the middle of the lawn. Long story short we moved from our 4 bathroom home to one 1/3 the size with one bath that also happened to be off the kitchen. We immediately set out to design a small addition which included a kitchen. That was three years ago. With the exception of the foundation and framing, this has been a complete DIY project. After a year and a month of doing dishes in the bathroom I now have a kitchen. It doesn't have alot of bells and whistles and although we didn't necessarily want a period kitchen we did want one that suited an older home.


Ikea Tidaholm cupboards, professionally sprayed in Cloud White with alot of customization. Unfortunately, these have since been discontinued.

AEG Electrolux 36" freestanding stove. Bought for less then half price because someone bought it, used it once and returned it because they decided they wanted gas. We don't have gas and recently put in Geo Thermal heating/air conditioning. Wasn't in the budget to bring in propane. Stove was so reasonable that if we decide to do so later we can.

Liebherr 30" freestanding refrigerator. Purchased for half price because it had a dent dent in the bottom half. Bought a new door so it was good as new, until they delivered it and dented the top half. They replaced the door. Neither will be installed until house is complete (just in case).

Ikea farmhouse sink and dishwasher. I'm actually very pleased that it works as well as it does.

Perrin and Rohl Aquatine faucet in polished nickel.

Island and Jam cupboard - Special Order from Camlen Furniture in Quebec. Purchased with hand planed top in pine and may or not replace with marble. Will live with it for a while.

10" random length pine floors. All hand finished and dinged and finshed with Waterlox. This alone took us several weeks. We love the finish.

Honed Absolute Black granite. Bought the kitchen at Ikea's 20% off sale. Rather then cash back you get Ikea gift certificates. Used these and another $1300.

Faber Inca Pro hood

Light fixture- Sescolite, Burlington, Ontario

Finished kitchen, $19 thousand including all the small stuff.

I would like to thank the GW community. I found you when most decisions had already been made but early enough to make some positive changes based on the vast amount of information shared on this site. I didn't ask for much advise but I can assure you that I read everything written on the subjects that I researched on this site and then some. I do not have the incredible knowledge that so many of you do who share so willingly to those who ask but have from time to time tried to help out on the very few subjects I know a little about. I have taken much more than I have been able to give. I am grateful to have had a place that I could frequent with people who share the same desire to have a kitchen of their dreams no matter their budget. And to those who think their day will never come, keep the faith. I never thought that I would get here. After seeing so many unbelievable kitchens, big and small, elaborate and understated, new and updated thanks for looking at mine.


clipped on: 03.13.2013 at 08:51 am    last updated on: 03.13.2013 at 08:51 am

RE: Window cleaner with cornstarch? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: measure_twice on 03.06.2013 at 12:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

OK, so I got all inspired and followed the recipe and tried it with black-and-white newspaper on the two worst glass panes in the house - the kitchen window over the sink and on the bathroom mirror. The exact mix varies a bit, here is the one I used from Battle of the Homemade Glass Cleaners:
1/4 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup 70 percent rubbing alcohol
1 tablespoon corn starch
2 cups warm water

Spray. Scrub. Wipe. And...

Holy toothpaste, Batman!

The window is so clear it looks like it evaporated, like it does not exist. Open air. You could put your hand through.

The mirror is eerie. It shows no surface dust to give you a clue it exists. It really looks like there is an opening into another room and there's a strange guy standing in that room. Oh crud, do I really look like that?


clipped on: 03.06.2013 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 03.06.2013 at 10:09 pm

Sharing my Bathtub Research

posted by: belasea on 12.03.2012 at 01:10 am in Bathrooms Forum

Everyone has been so helpful, so I thought I would share our bathtub search experience. The bathroom we are doing will have a shower over a tub and I like taking baths as well.

I was dead set on a cast iron tub until I realized that all of the cast iron tubs manufactured now have a non-slip bottom. I found out that this non-slip bottom is challenging to clean. I even went and looked in the showrooms, and sure enough they were all gray. My research on gardenweb and talking to contractors/plumbing stores also confirmed that they were difficult to clean. Not impossible, just difficult and I just wasn't up for the challenge.

I was very reluctant to go with fiberglass since our current fiberglass tub looks yellowed and horrible. However, I've been told they are built much better now, and we went with a thicker model. I also wanted one with a built in flange.

Next, came the height. I wanted one deep enough to take a nice bath, but not 20 inches high because it is higher than I want to step over as we age. Why don't more manufacturers make tubs 18 inches deep? Why are most 14 or 20?

We considered:
Kohler Bellwether - did not like the nonslip surface, but like the shape
Mirabelle Edenton - saw some complaints about chipping and not draining properly. I visited Fergusons, and the salesman did not deny it and said it was up to my contractor to test the tub. My contractor said he has installed these tubs without a problem, but it was higher than I wanted and decided it wasn't worth the risk.
Hydrosystems Lacey and the Sydney - both 20 inches high or higher
Americh Turo - after much research, went with this tub. Our contractor said these are good tubs, and the Plumbing store said another contractor installed it in his own house. It's only 18 inches high, 32 inches wide (also comes 30 wide), but has a deep bath. We purchased the non-airbath model. It has arrived and we're very happy with how it looks. Here is a picture of it. I'll post better pictures after its installed, but thought this may help someone else out who may be looking for 18" height tub.

This post was edited by belasea on Mon, Dec 3, 12 at 1:18


clipped on: 01.06.2013 at 09:14 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2013 at 09:14 pm

RE: There's no Closet Forum, so....Can We talk Walk In Closets? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: plllog on 02.25.2012 at 09:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

A closet is more like a walk-in pantry. A dressing room with cabinets, fireplace, vanity table, etc., is very nice, but a storage closet is basically a storage closet and has the same parameters:

1. No windows. Natural light is great to see by but even worse for clothes than for food. Clothes are meant to last longer.

2. Consistent temperature. The HVAC can do a number in your closet, trapping heat or a/c. Having some way for the air to circulate, especially the a/c which can also be damp, is essential.

3. Humidity control. As stated above, damp isn't a friend for your clothes. Nor is bone dry. 50% humidity is ideal for textiles. Too much damp can weight the fabrics down and cause sagging, as well as promoting growth of mold and mildew. Too much dry and the fibers loose their suppleness. They feel scratchier and wear faster, and the little threads in the cloth can break.

4. Correct storage. Creases aren't good for most cloths. Hanging isn't good for some. A combination of hanging and shelf/drawer storage is ideal. Sweaters do best folded but not stacked. Pants are happier hanging from one end or other (depending on the construction), but can be draped over a rod (hanger or built in) without suffering too much. They do take up more space that way, however. Jackets must be hung, dresses and skirts should be hung unless they're made of a stretchy knit. Scarves and shawls should be draped over a rod or rolled on a tube to prevent creasing. Shoes that aren't worn very often should be in drawers or boxes to keep them from getting dusty and marred.

5. Space efficiency: Eye level is great for choosing clothes, but you can maximize your space better if you double hang and put tops as high as you can conveniently reach them, and either more tops, or skirts/shorts/doubled pants below. Long hanging storage is necessary for dresses and gowns, and best for suits. Suits can also be hung on double rails if the pants are doubled. Drawers/boxes of rarely worn shoes (ones that go with a particular dressy outfit and the like) can go on shelves above the hanging things. Keep a small step stool in the closet to make access easy. Handbags can go on open shelves, but it's nicer to have a door, also to keep out dust. A clear door can remind you to use them. Lazy susans can work as well in corners as in the kitchen. You can have all shelves for shoes and bags, or use a section for pants clips, tie hangers, scarf rolls, etc. Ties do best on tie hangers (bars with little rods for the ties). These only work if they're somewhere that won't be squished. Otherwise they're nightmarish. The inside of a cabinet door with the shelves set back is a good place. Belts work well on pegs, again, placed somewhere they won't get squished.

6. Smalls, undergarments, hosiery, gloves, soft hats, etc., are best in drawers, though work in baskets. It's nice to have a hamper or laundry chute right in the closet. Structured hats are best kept on forms in cabinets. Barring that extravagance, hatboxes are best. They can be stacked/shelved in hard to use corners. Don't forget the labels.

7. Daily wear. Include some storage for the stuff you constantly wear around the house. The hoodie you always put on when you get home. The old running shoes. Or a small wardrobe of sweats, little dresses, or whatever you wear when you're not "dressed". Make it really easy to access with room for house shoes and house sweaters/jackets, including hooks for that which you've taken off and intend to put back on. If you have it all easy to get at and organized these bits are less likely to decorate the rest of the house (if you have sloppy-lazies) and makes it easier to just pop into the closet and put off your good clothes. Also have a "current" spot for better garments that might have been worn slightly but will be worn again before cleaning. This can be a valet, small rack, or hooks, but should have hangers so they can be stored properly so as not to lose their shapes or get wrinkled.

8. Maintenance. I mentioned the hamper, but it's also nice to have a place to put dry cleaning, both going out and coming in, along with a pad to write down what you're sending to the cleaners and to check off as you put the fresh cleaning on proper hangers. Even better would be to have room for an ironing board right in the closet or dressing area, though I've never achieved that. :)

Sorry I don't have any pictures. I have or have had most of the above. My current closet came fitted, but it's not pretty. Just plywood. It works though.


clipped on: 12.12.2012 at 08:46 am    last updated on: 12.12.2012 at 08:47 am

RE: Banquette Bench: CKGM and Shelayne -- pics please! (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: shelayne on 03.30.2012 at 10:10 am in Kitchens Forum

Thank you, a2gemini!

Here is a link to my source for the custom foam cushions I ordered online. I had them wrapped in dacron, and I believe I didn't get the top of the line, but the next level down. So far, so good.

Here is a link that might be useful: cushion inserts


clipped on: 10.29.2012 at 09:39 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2012 at 09:39 pm

RE: finished! Vintage Cream in the City (Follow-Up #100)

posted by: shanghaimom on 07.06.2010 at 12:08 am in Kitchens Forum

Hello and Happy Fourth!! Just returned to see the old thread has resurfaced. Thanks so much for the nice comments!

Funny, I just took down my leaded glass window last week, but then put back up a few days later after I tired of watching my neighbor go to and from her garage. Do I wave? Nod? Pretend we don't see each other? She is lovely but I don't want to have to "relate" in my PJs from the kitchen window.

Megpie, the blinds (and I have them all over) are from and they are "Premium Woven Woods" in Nova Ponte#38. I have ordered other things from them and been very happy, as I am with these. Their prices are the best I could find. (I have a teensy problem over-researching everything so take it from me...)

And fallingwaters, I miss the whole kitchen design thing so me anytime!! I could try! (-8 It used to be "decision overload," now it is "decision withdrawl."

Rocket HAS to stick to the rugs. He slips all over the floors, poor guy.

clipped on: 09.26.2012 at 08:41 am    last updated on: 10.29.2012 at 04:00 pm

RE: Show me your subway tile! (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: sixtyohno on 03.21.2012 at 09:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

CKGM- DH is looking through his pile of receipts that should have been filed in the proper place. If he doesn't find it I will phone the store and get the name for you. I just searched the net and I'm pretty sure though that this is it. I bought mine at Nelson Tile in Saugerties NY. Be prepared though for spending more to the installer, because glass is harder to cut and apply. I do love it though and it was the last expense, so by that time we were crazed and didn't care. I think I spent $850 for the install.

NOTES: for cheap ceramic subway
clipped on: 09.26.2012 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 09.26.2012 at 10:20 am

RE: This old TV show should appeal to all kitchen aficionados her (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: AlexHouse on 09.24.2012 at 08:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

Alas, they have the first two and then the last one (episode 8).

Some links must be crossed or something for I watched a whole bunch of the episodes.

Here is Episode #2. Breakfast.
Here is Episode #3. Luncheon.
Here is Episode #4. Afternoon Tea.
Here is Episode #5. Dinner
Here is Episode #6. Supper.
Here is Episode #7. The Dinner Party.
Here is Episode #8. Picnics.

I just watched Episode #2 of the new season's Downton Abbey last night and the Dinner Party episode of Victorian Kitchen came to mind.


clipped on: 09.24.2012 at 09:40 pm    last updated on: 09.24.2012 at 09:40 pm

RE: transom windows (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: AboutToGetDusty on 09.13.2012 at 10:27 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks, go_figure01! I wanted the look of slate but chickened out and went with faux - I posted the link. It's Formations Flint by Florida Tile. It's a lovely textured dark charcoal (in this picture, construction was just finishing up so the floor is a little dusty!). The size originally was 12x24. I know it's wasteful, but I didn't want rectangles that big, and I didn't want squares. I looked everywhere but couldn't find a smaller scale rectangle floor tile with the look of slate. I thought again about slate but it would have taken too long for real slate to come in. So I ordered the Formations Flint and had my contractor cut each tile down to 9x18.
Love the cabinets. People keep asking me if they're custom, but they're just Lowes Schuler. The kitchen ones are white icing and the panty in that picture is Pinot Noir - black, rubbed off to show a hint of red wine here and there ;-)

Here is a link that might be useful: Formations Flint tile


Slate-look tile
clipped on: 09.14.2012 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 09.14.2012 at 12:19 pm

RE: water filtration suggestions needed (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shannonaz on 09.11.2012 at 01:18 am in Appliances Forum

We have started using something very similar to what breezy uses and we have been very happy with it.

Here is a link that might be useful: 3M water filter


clipped on: 09.12.2012 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 09.12.2012 at 09:34 am

RE: water filtration suggestions needed (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: breezygirl on 09.11.2012 at 12:44 am in Appliances Forum

If you can get by with a basic filter on your cold water line, I suggest the GE filter linked below. I bought mine at HD about 10 months ago and have been very happy with it. Although I'm on decent city water, I just don't like the taste. Now, the water tastes as good as that from my old Britta.

Water pressure is 2.0 and seems to be barely reduced from my hot water line. I have never had a problem with the pressure.

The filter is supposed to last about six months, but mine is still going strong. I think that having two sinks (so not using the filter for all my cold water needs) is extending the life of the filter.

Best part is that it only cost about $50.

Here is a link that might be useful: GE filter


clipped on: 09.12.2012 at 09:34 am    last updated on: 09.12.2012 at 09:34 am

RE: Wine Refrigerator (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jsceva on 03.23.2011 at 02:21 pm in Appliances Forum

How long are you storing the wine in the cabinet? I.e., is this for storing wines you are using in the next few weeks at most, or do you want to also use the cabinet for aging of any bottles?

If relatively short-term storage, the unit does not have to be as rigorous in maintaining an even temp, humidity etc. Most of the residential units should do ok, and it comes down largely to aesthetics, noise level, etc. Also, you need to decide if you want one or two temp zones...personally, in an undercounter unit I have a hard time believing that 2-zones really works that well. Perlick is very robust, though pricey; Marvel has a pretty good reputation and nice features, but is a bit loud (I can confirm this from personal experience now, it was a bit disturbing), U-Line seems to have really improved their product lately and looks pretty nice. Liebherr seems nice at a decent price, and they seem to place some priority on the segment. I Can't comment from any direct experience regarding the wine units from the mainstream brands like Kitchenaid, GE, etc., but in general I would think that if their other undercounter refrigeration has a good reputation - especially beverage centers - then you will probably be ok for short term storage use.

If you are looking to age at all, I would suggest you seriously consider a unit from a company specializing only in wine appliances. Eurocave does a built-in that you can integrate, though its a bit expensive given its size (about $2700). The Wine Enthusiast website sells a housebrand, N'FINITY, that is definitely worth looking at. They can be built-in, and are very affordable (usually under $1000) for what you get. Transtherm also has a small unit called the "mas" and/or "studio" that can be built-in; I own the bigger "Bastide" unit from Transtherm, and have been very happy with it for the cost.

Whatever you get, remember:

(1) Whatever capacity they claim, you will not fit anywhere near that number of bottles unless they are all exactly standard bordeaux bottles and you stack them for maximum capacity, not easy access. This is just a fact of life with wine cabinets.

(2) Extra shelves are often a separate accessory, and can cost more than you expect.

(3) Always keep the cabinet full, even if it is with bottles of water....the mass of the contents acts as a temperature reservoir to keep things even and prevent swings. By keeping it full, your conditions will be better and you will likely use less energy as well.

Hope that helps some, instead of making it just more confusing....


clipped on: 08.07.2012 at 01:00 pm    last updated on: 08.07.2012 at 01:00 pm

RE: Nonstick egg pan for a cast iron user? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Angie_DIY on 07.14.2012 at 07:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I also agree with cooksnews, lirio, and mrs.MM that smooth cast iron is a delight. People always say to buy vintage Griswold or Wagner, which is a fine idea. However, a company called American Culinary bought all the rights and molds for BOTH of those companies, and is in business making NEW smooth cast-iron cookware. I do not have direct experience, but I wouldn't mind giving them a try. They are cheap enough; an 8" polished Wagner skillet is only $17.50.

Of course, the carbon steel pans I wrote about earlier are very, very smooth inside.

Here is a link that might be useful: New Wagner/Griswold maker


clipped on: 07.14.2012 at 11:20 pm    last updated on: 07.14.2012 at 11:20 pm

RE: Prevent dishwasher/refrigerator leaks on wood floor (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: marcolo on 05.29.2012 at 07:42 pm in Appliances Forum

Get a Floodstop


clipped on: 06.04.2012 at 08:53 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2012 at 08:54 pm

Finished Kitchen Pictures!

posted by: ayerg73 on 05.28.2012 at 05:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

After over a year of planning and lots of great advice from this forum, it's time for the big reveal! The kitchen is finally finished!!

Ok - here are all the details...
Cabinets - custom builder. Shaker style. Full overlay. Painted cabinets - Colored Lacquer used is same color as SW Impressive Ivory.
Wood cabinets - natural cherry.
Hardware - Amerock Highland Ridge in Dark Oil Rubbed Bronze. 128mm and a few 3" pulls on small drawers.
Countertops - Anasazi Soapstone from The Stone Studio in Batesville, IN
Backsplash Tile - Debris Tile from Fireclay Tile. 2x6 subways in Kelp Green with swirl accents.
Fireplace Tile - Modern Mythology Phoenix Mixed Stone Mosaic
Paint - Walls are SW Krypton. Trim is SW Impressive Ivory at 50% intensity
Floor - Historic Blend Hickory floor from Tennessee Wood Flooring with hand distressing and square nail holes. 3, 4 & 5" planks, mixed.
Range - Bertazzoni Dual Fuel 48" range in black
Hood - Vent a Hood
Dishwasher - Bosch 800 Plus
Microwave - Sharp 24" Drawer
Sink - Blanco Silgranit Super single in Anthracite
Faucet - Grohe Concetto in Chrome
Soap Dispenser - Elkay Deluxe in Chrome
UCL - Neutral White LED strips from Environmental Lights
Pendants - Kichler Sayre 12" in ORB
Chandelier - Murry Feiss Sullivan Collection in ORB

The old kitchen was not in a terrible state, it was just not functional for us. The double ovens wouldn't close and we'd been reduced to duct taping them closed. The cooktop didn't cook anything evenly and the tile was coming up. There was also a ton of wasted space, which just irritated me when I couldn't find a place to store anything.

I knew I wanted a traditional range because I have short arms and always worried about burning myself when getting things out of the wall ovens, so I knew that a layout change was in order. We also had a very dark space with almost no natural light. We opened up the room to the dining room and put in light colored cabinets with lots of great lighting. The room definitely doesn't feel dark anymore. YAY!

Here's what we were working with before:
house 014

house 013

house 015

And here's what we have now...









Love the dog food storage. It makes feeding time a whole lot easier.

And my spice/knife drawer - thanks to Breezy for the idea!

It seems like just about every decision in our space has been touched in some way by you guys. Thanks for helping us create our dream kitchen!


clipped on: 05.30.2012 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 05.30.2012 at 03:08 pm

RE: shelf/nook behind range - love it? or not? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: bluekitobsessed on 03.12.2009 at 03:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

I love mine, which was fabricated from a granite scrap. So far no cleaning issues. Pic:

FWIW, I tried the Pottery Barn metal shelf (probably equivalent to ccoombs', but for $60 instead of $15), and I don't recommend it due to installation difficulties.



clipped on: 05.06.2012 at 09:22 am    last updated on: 05.06.2012 at 09:22 am

RE: undermount sink sealing (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: azstoneconsulting on 06.17.2011 at 10:21 am in Kitchens Forum

At the risk of sounding "self promoting" which I am not trying to be here (some dude gets all bent out of shape every time I mention that I've been in the Industry for over 33 years) = ANYWAYS......

Here's MY Opinion and feedback on MY Experiences:

I have had NO USE FOR GE SILICONE II - It is Ca Ca in my opinion - for what I need it for....

PURE 100% Silicone caulk (GE makes a couple of varieties as well as DAP and others) is what has worked FOR ME, however, I have had the BEST results (day in and day out) using acrylic latex caulks - such as Alex Plus. It's WAY easy to use, clean up is a breeze, and it lasts a good long time.

Another brand of caulk that I have used in the past with OUTSTANDING RESULTS is "POLY-SEAM-SEAL" . The Polyseamseal is less flexible than some of the conventional latex acrylic caulks, but it holds like iron and my customers over the last three DECADES have had no complaints....

just my opinion and .02 cents for what it's worth - again...

not trying to be "self promoting"




clipped on: 04.06.2012 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2012 at 09:46 pm

RE: Stainless steel and oil (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 04.04.2012 at 02:11 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm a Sheila Shine girl myself. One can will last an entire lifetime.


clipped on: 04.04.2012 at 02:57 pm    last updated on: 04.04.2012 at 02:57 pm

RE: Banquette Bench: CKGM and Shelayne -- pics please! (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: shelayne on 04.01.2012 at 09:58 pm in Kitchens Forum

a2gemini, that is what I wanted to do initially--have the two tall cabs with the bench in between. It was one of those things that changed along the process. That is going to be beautiful--I can't wait to see it! How exciting that your cabinets are coming tomorrow--Woo Hoo!

fouramblues, IKEA doesn't have a specific bench, but it is easy enough to make one using their stock cabinets. I used their over-the-fridge cabinets because I wanted deeper seating and drawers. Lots of people use the standard wall cabinet depth, 15" high cabinets to do the same thing. It just depends on what kind of bench seating you want, and what kind of storage you need. We just started with plain ole IKEA over-the-fridge cabinet boxes and ganged them together--

Like this:
building the banquette, After DH cut off 2

We attached them to a platform constructed from 2X4s, added a couple of filler pieces on each end. As I mentioned upthread, we went with custom doors, so I could have the cabinets in any configurations I wanted, as I wasn't held to the IKEA door/draw front sizes.

For the banquette, I purchased and installed three 36" IKEA deep drawer kits, which look like this:
Then we trimmed out the seating area with wainscoting and added a top for the bench seat and attached the drawer fronts. Later I threw together some cushions.

Voila! DIY banquette bench. :)


clipped on: 04.02.2012 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 04.02.2012 at 08:58 am

RE: Evening out the color (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: live_wire_oak on 03.24.2012 at 02:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Then you'll want to use a wood conditioner and possibly a dye rather than a stain, depending on wood type. And have plenty of scrap on hand to practice with as controlling the depth of the color can be pretty tricky. One trick that some use is to use shellac or tung oil greatly thinned down as a quick first coat on the more porous ends and then stain. It depends on the products you plan to use if they are compatible with this method or not. I would personally recommend General Finishes products all day long and twice on Sundays over the more readily available Minwax products.


A good stain brand
clipped on: 03.24.2012 at 05:18 pm    last updated on: 03.24.2012 at 05:19 pm

RE: GC wants kitchen wall colors!! (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: beekeeperswife on 03.21.2012 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

IF and that's a big IF, you want to do a warm gray, then (I feel like a broken record recommending this color swatch) look at the colors on the strip with 1466. There is Baltic Gray, Smoke Embers, Nimbus, etc. They are grays that lean towards the browns. I used these colors in my old :*( house a lot and never had the cold feeling gray can give.

I do see a gray in your coutertop, so see if any of those will work.

And yes, it's not that hard to paint the walls around the cabinets, so wait and see it all in place first. Same with the backsplash...wait. You need to get the overall vibe.

And I think we are sisters from a different mister.....I had about 30-40 samples of gray paint in a basket when we moved. It's the "sample basket". But funny, every time I would go to paint....back to that same strip. It just worked for me. I'm going with Smoke Embers in the new house. Hope I like it.



clipped on: 03.21.2012 at 12:54 pm    last updated on: 03.21.2012 at 12:54 pm

RE: Painting over Polyurethane (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: paintguy on 02.28.2010 at 06:37 pm in Paint Forum

Of course it can be done, but it will never be as durable as if you started with new wood. You will want to sand to dull the sheen of the poly which would give the primer a better chance at sticking well. I would suggest BIN as a primer followed by two topcoats of a 100 percent acrylic paint in satin or better sheen.


clipped on: 03.16.2012 at 08:48 pm    last updated on: 03.16.2012 at 08:48 pm

RE: Counter Depth Refrigerator (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: mydreamhome on 03.02.2012 at 10:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have the Kenmore Elite badged counter depth Samsung SxS and love it. We also made sure we got the largest capacity counter depth fridge available with icemaker in the door to free up all the shelves in the freezer compartment. No problems with the drawers or celery storage, no ice shooting across the floor or anything. Maybe they've changed the design since they made yours or maybe it's because yours is a FD--don't know.

What I do experience is the fingerprint issue. I tried wiping down with just soap & water, tried Pledge, tried Windex-nothing worked completely. Then I found Weiman's Stainless Steel Cleaner Wipes in the grocery store--Wow!!! All fingerprints & drip marks disappeared and it seems to help the surface resist fingerprints as well. We are going on a week and no fingerprints--and that's with a 7 yr old & a 17 yr old going in and out of the fridge all the time + DH & I. You may want to give them a try.


Stainless wipes
clipped on: 03.03.2012 at 08:20 am    last updated on: 03.03.2012 at 08:20 am

RE: End is Near!!! (Pic Heavy) creamy, inset, timeless kitchen (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: phorbin on 01.12.2012 at 01:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sorry i am so late in responding. I hate moving!!!! where did all this junk come from? Didn't i lose everything in Katrina 6 years ago?

i want to thank everyone for the kind post. I am so happy with the final results.

to answer a few questions:

the hood was made with 2x4's and sheetrock. we wrapped the hood with an old pine 2x4 that was salvaged from an old shotgun house that was being redone. I think it gives it a rustic look.

Riccas is a great place. you will spend hours in there looking at all the old salvaged stuff. I found the hardware to be of good quality and the prices were cheaper than i could find on line.

the sink is a whitehaven K-6488.
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

the fridge panel was made by the cabinet maker. I got the idea from the laundry door in the bath room
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

we just made a frame, attached the fridge brackets, and screwed on the sheets. i found the sheets at lowes. before they were painted they looked a little wavey. it does not have that wavy look now that its painted. If you were going to do this and so for a stainless look you would need to get a fabricator to make it because the sheets at lowes were thin. there is also a one by on the bottom so you cant see in when the doors are open. here are some more pics
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug
Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug

thanks again everyone. i will try to answer a few more questions inbetween moving. and i still need to do a follow up on the chip during install.


mesh for pantry transom
clipped on: 02.27.2012 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 02.27.2012 at 09:10 am

RE: Foot Pedal for Trash Can (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: buehl on 08.07.2008 at 12:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

The only one I know about is the one made by Häfele. Others have asked and no one seems to know of any other either.

You should be able to find installation info on either the Häfele site or one of the sites that sells it. There are two for trash cans mounted on rails (like yours) and one for trash cans mounted in a drawer-like base. Note that both are designed for frameless cabinets. However, a resourceful GWer posted what s/he did to adapt hers/his to framed cabinets. S/he has the rail type. See the info below.


From the "Pull Out Trash" thread started by ColdTropics on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 2:43

Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 19:27

Front View when cabinet is shut:

View of foot pedal when cabinet is open:
Keep in mind this view will be hidden when trash cans are in the cabinet.

Metal plate mounted on bottom back of door:
This is the plate that is 3.5" tall--to deal with a face framed cabinet.

Finally, looking at the bottom of the cabinet:
Glued a scrap of wood to the back of the face frame.

Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 20:01

muscat: The rails are always attached to the door-regardless of whether your trash cans hang from a rail, or your trash cans sit on a base. In your picture, the cans sit on a base.

I believe that my modifications will also work with your situation (cans sitting on a base). However, you will need to make one minor modification that I did not do. That modification has to do with the elastic cords that come with the pedal.

Elastic cords (ie, bungee cords) pull the door open when the pedal is kicked. You would have to alter where the front of the cords are mounted inside the cabinet. Very easy to do.

Earlier posts on this thread refer to a version of the Häfele pedal for trash cans which sit on a base. I have not seen this product. I suspect they use the identical pedal, but altered the instructions relative to the location where to mount the elastic cords.

Posted by lowspark (My Page) on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 11:02

I'm not sure what the door mount kit is, but you have to have a pull out trash in order for the foot pedal to work.

In other words, your trash bins should be hanging from a rail attached to the door OR sitting on a shelf attached to the door. The door should pull open like a drawer (not swing open like a normal cab) and as it pulls open the trash bins come out with it.

Note that Häfele makes two different pedals, one for the bins hanging from rails and one for the bins sitting on the shelf. I'm not clear on which one you've linked to above. Also note that these foot pedals are designed for frameless cabs. I don't know if they can or have been used on framed cabs and would be interested to hear about that if anyone has.

Here are the links I have to the two kinds of Häfele pedals:

Pedal for trash can which hangs from rails:

Pedal for trash can which sits on base:


Note: In the two links above, the foot pedals are on the bottom of the pages. Click on the "Specs (PDF)" link below the picture. Other places than KitchenSource also sell these. (When determining your "best" price, be sure to factor in tax and shipping!)



Retrofit instructions for face frame cabs
clipped on: 02.21.2012 at 09:28 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2012 at 09:29 pm

RE: Hfele Foot Pedal for Trash...want a chuckle? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: buehl on 10.04.2008 at 08:17 am in Kitchens Forum

Jnjmom...I ordered it from TrashCansAndMore. They have both versions...the one for trash bins hanging from rails and the one for trash bins sitting in a base.

Trash bins sitting on base: ($35 + 6.99 shipping)

Trash bins hanging from rails: ($59 + free shipping)

Another site that sells them: & [Note the $12 shipping + $10 minimum order fee/surcharge]


clipped on: 02.21.2012 at 09:07 pm    last updated on: 02.21.2012 at 09:07 pm

Capital Culinarian range accessories

posted by: zartemis on 01.26.2012 at 08:00 pm in Appliances Forum

The oven rotisserie is our favorite part of the CC range so far (since we have 2 other ovens, I suspect we'll just keep the racks out for the most part and leave the rotisserie set up full time) and I looked into getting a rotisserie basket that would fit on the spit. I found one and gave it a try.

The CC spit is a hex-sided spit with 1/2 inch from flat side to flat side (a little more pointed edge to pointed edge). So rotisseries that accept up to a 1/2 inch square spit (one of the more common ones) won't fit. The Fire Magic basket 3618, in stainless steel, accepts up to a 5/8 inch square spit:

It's a standard spit basket. For those who aren't familiar with them, it clamps to the basket via eye hooks. Not the best, most secure option, but it does work:

One side of the cage is removable and adjustable. Because of the beefy spit and the large basket design, it can't be set as narrow as some baskets. Here it is in the tightest position, against the spit and holding some bratwursts in place:

The brats rotating in the oven:

Here's an accessory I'd like to make or find: A burner cover that fits over the grills of the burners of the stove and turns the unused burners into a flat continuous surface from burner to burner. Ideally it would be cast iron or similar surface so you could actually cook on it as well. Any ideas?


clipped on: 02.06.2012 at 12:14 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2012 at 12:14 pm

Very Informative Website

posted by: Eric-E on 01.01.2012 at 03:18 am in Kitchens Forum

After watching the New Year fireworks, I was poking around on the web looking for ideas for my kitchen remodel, and I hit upon a site by a builder in Nebraska. I read an article on porcelain tile that was very good and glanced at a few more. According to the list of articles available on the site, there seem to be a large number of articles about remodeling and home renovation. Has anyone heard of this site before?

Here is a link that might be useful: Starcraft Builders Website


clipped on: 02.02.2012 at 08:44 am    last updated on: 02.02.2012 at 08:44 am

RE: Kitchen Fabrics - Online Resources? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: skyedog on 01.29.2012 at 05:12 pm in Kitchens Forum

I have used both Robert Allen Outlet and Schindlers Fabrics several times and had good luck with both companies. I also have bought Sunbrella's Glen Raven brand at Great Lakes Skipper (see link). It is a marine grade fabric used on boats and yachts that I used for outdoor cushions.

I liked it better than the regular outdoor fabrics. It's not so stiff but still wears very well. I would also contact a regular upholsterer - they should have a good selection and can steer you in the right direction.

Here is a link that might be useful: boat fabric


clipped on: 01.29.2012 at 07:13 pm    last updated on: 01.29.2012 at 07:13 pm

RE: ? for Capital Precision owners... (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: rhivers on 12.18.2011 at 01:23 am in Appliances Forum

I spoke with Trevor and it's on it way. The product is Ultra Shine from the folks who make Scratch-B-Gone. Here's a link to it on Trevor's site. I'll let you know how it works.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ultra Shine


How to clean burner caps...
clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 07:26 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2012 at 07:27 pm

RE: ? for Capital Precision owners... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: trevorlawson on 12.13.2011 at 12:17 pm in Appliances Forum

jscout.... The scratch on your plate rail / ledge can be removed with a product called scratch be Gone.


clipped on: 01.28.2012 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 01.28.2012 at 07:22 pm

My island slab - Blue Louise/Van Gogh!

posted by: drbeanie2000 on 01.26.2012 at 09:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am so excited to have put down the deposit on this scrumptious quartzite today!!! Our island will only take a fraction of it so we'll have to figure out where exactly on the slab we will want. Also, considering ditching the prep sink on the island, just because this slab is so gorgeous.






clipped on: 01.27.2012 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 01.27.2012 at 02:30 pm

Pip's Finished Kitchen! Lots of pics

posted by: pip on 12.21.2010 at 08:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks to the many inspiring kitchens and knowledgeable people on this site, we just finished our 5 week remodel of our kitchen. The collective wisdom on this site helped us so much during the remodel!

The previous kitchen had been remodeled within the last 10 years, but it was separated from the rest of the home and lacked sufficient counter space for a family of four. We decided to tear down the wall that separated the kitchen and laundry room and expand into the dining room to give us more counter space. The windows in the corner were too low to run counters and that proved to be a design challenge. Instead of raising the windows which would have altered the architecture of the exterior of the home, we decided to make the area a banquette. We also moved the old doorway off the foyer and created two larger arches which open up the kitchen to the living and dining room.

The space was too small for an island, so we had our counter top fabricator make us a work table that is movable -- it has wheels and we can roll it out of the way if we want to open up the kitchen.

Cabinets - custom by Los Angeles cabinetmaker - maple shaker style (bar area is espresso finish)
Countertops - Madre Perla quartzite
Backsplash - White onyx staggered tile
Faucet - KWC Eve
Sink - Franke
All KitchenAid appliances, except for GE profile microwave Vent-a-hood
Lighting - onxy pendants purchased at Lighting Emporium
Pulls - Great Indoors
Floors - White Oak hardwoods to match the rest of the home
Paint- Martha Stewart "Fossil"




and, of course, a photo of Pip himself, enjoying his new kitchen...


clipped on: 01.07.2012 at 09:16 am    last updated on: 01.07.2012 at 09:16 am

RE: argon gas windows (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: Oberon on 07.20.2005 at 08:48 pm in Renewable Energy Forum

Four Season's uses a dual-silver softcoat LowE coating. I believe that your salesman was incorrect when he said it was on the #3 surface...I believe that 4-Seasons' coating is on the #2 surface (inner side of the outer lite)...but while U factor is not affected by the surface the coating is applied to, overall thermal performance can be affected by which surface has the LowE coating.

Argon is about a 30% lower thermal conductivity than does air. This translates into about a 16% energy improvement in a standard LowE^2 IGU at better than 90% fill. If you have an IGU with a 50% fill, for example, the U factor improvement will be 8% and at 75% fill the improvement will be might note the straight line progression on u value improvement based on the amount of argon fill.

The air we breathe is 1% argon. If the IGU is filled to anything over that level, then the argon in the IGU wants to reach equalibrium with the 1% in the atmosphere. The job of the IGU manufacturer is to ensure that the argon in the IGU stays in the IGU. A 1% per year loss of argon due to natural dissipation thru the IGU edge seal (not resulting from a failed seal) is about the best that is currently available to modern technology. This is readily achieveable and is becoming something of the industry standard.

Hope this helps a bit.


clipped on: 01.05.2012 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2012 at 12:20 pm

RE: Low-e vs solar gain vs window treatments (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: oberon on 08.30.2007 at 07:38 am in Windows Forum

good morning,

I am curious that your architect said to get insulating glass without LowE coating because of solar gain considerations. Either the architect is being a bit lazy or else he/she is not well versed on window performance.

If he/she wants to maximize solar gain then you want a LowE coating that maximizes solar gain as well as keeps heat inside your home. You do not want clear glass under any circumstances because the losses (as you noted) exceed the gains when the sun isn't shining on the windows.

A high solar gain LowE coating will balance out the losses and gains to a much greater degree than will clear glass. I know of very few solar gain experts who would dispute that idea, so again I would suggest that your architect may need to do a little reading about passive solar energy performance.

To follow up what Guy mentioned in his post, LowE coatings are designed to block infrared energy. The high solar gain coatings block what is called "far infrared" or "long wave" infrared. Far infrared is what you are getting from your heat source in your home - be it radiant, forced air, whatever. Even when you have solar gain thru your windows that warms the walls and furniture and floors, the heat that you feel radiating from those surfaces is far infrared.

Direct solar gain is "near infrared" or "short wave" infrared. This is the heat that you feel when standing in a sunbeam. This is very nice heat that always feels good - on cold winter days - less good on hot sunny summer days!

When considering passive solar thru windows, you want to allow the near infrared energy thru the glass but you want tyo block the return of the far infrared to the outdoors - again back thru the glass. This is what a high solar heat gain LowE coating does - it allows direct sun heat to pass but then keeps the warm inside air inside.

A low solar heat gain coating, on the other hand, is designed to block both near and far infrared energy. It is designed to keep "all heat" from passing thru the window. If you are not concerned about passive solar gain for whatever reason - for example you live in south Florida or west Texas where solar gain into your home may not be considered a necessarily good thing - then this sort of coating is what you want.

Even in the north country this coating will often (but not always) be more cost effective than a high gain product depending on factors such as actual amount of sunlight available, home orientation, number and size of windows, etc. Again, this is an area where the architect can make a huge difference by desiging a home that will take advantage of direct solar gain in winter and that will effectively block direct solar gain in summer. If you have a home that is designed to those specifications, then a high gain coating may be the best choice.

But, if you have a home that is not designed to make best use of those factors then it may be better to go with a low gain coating instead.

In all circumstances having a LowE coating is better than having clear glass.

Do LowE coatings block visible light? Yes, somewhat. But very few people really notice the difference when the entire home has coated glass. A caveat that not all coatings are created equal and that some manufactuers are much better than others at manufacturing "neutral color" coatings that can be far less noticeable. Often, even experts can't tell if a home has LowE coatings just by looking at the windows.

Calbay is an excellent source of first hand homeowner information. He did his homework before buying and he does a great job of passing what he has learned about his windows.

And off subject...

Guy, now that it has quit raining for a few days, we are going to try to get those windows installed later this week...hoping the eather holds until we get them in! Thanks for the advice and I will likely be bugging you a few more times my friend!!!


clipped on: 01.05.2012 at 09:17 am    last updated on: 01.05.2012 at 09:17 am

RE: I Finally Did It! Now switchplate question (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: remodelfla on 12.18.2011 at 02:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

check out switchhits. If you can't find something there... you'll never find it anywhere.

Here is a link that might be useful: switchhits


clipped on: 01.04.2012 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2012 at 01:24 pm

RE: What kind of Outlet Covers will look Good? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: marybeth1 on 05.27.2009 at 11:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

ideamom, your backsplash is gorgeous! I saw these at home depot.

Here is a link that might be useful: wall plate


cast "stone" outlet covers for backsplash
clipped on: 01.04.2012 at 01:20 pm    last updated on: 01.04.2012 at 01:21 pm

99% Finished Kitchen--creamy white w/soapstone

posted by: jbrodie on 03.01.2009 at 06:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Finally! Our kitchen is finished! I never thought the day would come, and boy am I enjoying it. I owe so much to this forum. I can't tell you how much you all helped me. Thank you!!! I hope I can help others in return.

Hope I'm not putting too many pictures!





soap stone

Quick description (feel free to contact me if you have questions)
-Soapstone: Julia
-Cabinets: Custom, inset/flush shaker style with single bead (waiting to see if we get some issues resolved before I recommend the cabinet maker)
-Bookcase and desk tops: walnut
-Sharp microwave oven drawer (love it!)
-GE fridge
-Shaw 30 inch apron sink
-Wolf range top
-Thermador double ovens
-Vent-a-hood hood
-Dal tile
-potfiller: Newport Brass
-hot/cold faucet Newport Brass
-Main faucet: Mico
-Door to garage: one panel painted with chalkboard! The kids love this and it's fun to put messages to guests, each other, holiday wishes, etc.
-Pull out baskets (love these...I keep bread in one and potatoes, onions, etc. in the other)
-Wine shelf--love it!
-Bar stools from Sturbridge Yankee Workshop (love these and they were so reasonable!)
-What would I do differently? More than 12 inch overhang on seating area of island (maybe 14-16 inch). And I might skip the bead board in the backs of the bookshelfs and glass cabs.

Happy kitchen designing to all! Thank you again!


love everything about this kitchen
wall color
chairs from
clipped on: 12.31.2011 at 11:20 am    last updated on: 12.31.2011 at 11:22 am

My Cabinet Touchup Process for Minor Nicks and Flaws

posted by: lmalm53 on 11.19.2008 at 04:34 am in Kitchens Forum

I was asked by nomorebluekitchen to write up something about my process for touching up my old cabinets and to include some before and after pictures. Let me preface this by saying emphatically that I am NOT a refinisher and really have just been using trial and error to find something that works on minor nicks and water damage on the cabinet finish. In fact I would still like to know if there isn't some kind of final finish or wax that I should be applying to help keep my touchups protected from future moisture. But at least the touchups I did almost 6 months ago still look like new.

Please be aware that I have used this process only on natural solid wood cabinets that have been stained, not painted. This may not work on laminate surfaces or composite woods. If anyone out there has more experience with this type of repair, please add your input also. This is the process I used.

First off, my 19 year old dark cherry cabinets were in need of a good cleaning. I have read some negative posts about using any kind of oil soap on cabinets, but I have had no problems using Murphy's Oil soap for cleaning up greasy spots. I just dilute a small amount of the soap in a pail of warm water and using a soft microfiber cloth I clean up the cabinets. If I have any tough dried on gunk, I gently clean it off using a piece of 0000 fine steel wool.

After drying with a soft cloth I then like to put a little Orange Glo furniture cleaner and polish on a clean white cloth and further clean and polish up the wood finish. At this point I carefully inspect for signs of wear, worn finish or nicks in the wood. You will be surprised how much you thought was damage turns out to have just been dirt or specks that easily clean off. Be sure to open up all the drawers and cabinet doors where there is often damage to the finish just inside the doors. I use my Minwax Stain Marker pen which matches my cabinet color perfectly. (I use 225 red mahogany)

Using the stain pen I just start filling in the damaged spots. Sort of like filling in the lines in a coloring book. :) I apply the stain generously, wipe up any excess with a paper towel and then let it sit for awhile. You could probably let it sit for a few hours or overnight, but I get impatient and tend to move from one cabinet to another with the cleanup and touchup process then work back to the first cabinet again to check the stain and see if I need to apply a little more.

Once I am satisfied that I have done my best touching up any damage, I then like to get another clean soft microfiber cloth to buff up the cabinet faces. Some of the stain will come off on your cloth, but in most cases the areas of damaged finish will have absorbed enough stain to improve the cosmetic look greatly. If you need to reapply some stain in especially large damaged areas, I would let the stain sit longer before you buff it out.

Now this is where I am probably missing a step, because it seems logically there should be some kind of finish coat or preservative put on the cabinets to keep them protected. But I have not added anything yet after buffing out the stain. Since most of my cabinet finish was in good shape I couldn't see the need to apply any all over sealer, but I guess a real refinisher would use something to seal the damaged areas. I am hoping my stain doesn't all come off the next time I deep clean the cabinets!

So...buyer beware!... but I was asked to explain how I do it so this is it. Here are some pics if it helps to see the types of damage that can be greatly improved without going to a lot of expense and trouble.

Here are the touchup supplies I use:



And here are some before and after pictures:

Small Cabinet Drawer Face Before Touchup

After Touchup

Cabinet Center Panel Before Touchup

After Touchup of Center Panel only

Whole Cabinet after Hardware Removed and Before Touchup

After Touchup and New Hardware installed

I will say that there are some types of damage that this process cannot repair. I have yet to figure out what I will do with my laundry room cabinet that has had so much water damage that the finish has turned a milky white in places. I suspect in that case I may need to strip the old finish down to the raw wood, restain and reseal completely. That will be a project I will tackle after I have done some more research!

But for now here is my updated kitchen. I saved a lot by keeping the 19 year old cabinets and by touching them up myself, instead of having them professionally refaced or refinished. Only time will tell how long my process holds up, but at this point I feel it was worth it! Most of my guests think the cabinets are brand new.

Hope this is helpful to someone. I am sure there are others who can improve on my methods, so please add your comments.


clipped on: 11.30.2011 at 09:57 am    last updated on: 11.30.2011 at 10:00 am