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RE: Expandable Glass Dining Table (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: katy--b on 03.06.2012 at 11:47 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Calligaris has some awesome glass expandable tables. I have one and love it. Just search for calligaris and should be able to find their website and pictures

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good modern glass table manufacturer
clipped on: 03.07.2012 at 01:42 am    last updated on: 03.07.2012 at 01:42 am

Finished modern bathroom

posted by: margieb2 on 01.18.2012 at 09:41 am in Bathrooms Forum

The "What was your best bathroom remodeling decision" was amazingly helpful although by one regret is that we opted out of the heated floors. We installed a toe kick heater under the vanity instead but it's not quite the same! Anyway, by pushing the wall with the vanity back 2 feet and taking space from the bedroom behind it, we were able to add double sinks and a tub. It's now a very functional and very soothing space. Love it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Master bath remodel

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clipped on: 02.04.2012 at 10:01 pm    last updated on: 02.04.2012 at 10:01 pm

kitchen design--does it matter? lots of pics-part 2

posted by: monablair on 08.04.2011 at 01:30 pm in Home Decorating Forum

My daughter bought this home. It's a 1928 home that needs a GREAT DEAL of work and the kitchen is only one part of the remodel.
Whoever did this video must be a master of photography, because while it looks like only minor work is needed...the reality is that it needs a new roof, a new kitchen, all new windows and woodwork, replastering of the walls, floors need repairing and refinishing..$$$$$$$$ and lots of it to get it back to the beauty it once was.

If the sellers had not drastically reduced the price and (after the home inspection) given generous compensations for repairs, she never could have even considered buying it.
The selling price does not reflect the compensations given, so even with the needed work, it was a heck of a deal in a wonderful neighborhood.

But, they did and now the work is starting.

The window over the sink is being reduced in size and it is being raised. Right now the counter under it is at thigh high level.

You'll see what I'm talking about if you look at these pictures.

Here is a link that might be useful: pictures of the house

Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of the house

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clipped on: 08.05.2011 at 12:02 pm    last updated on: 08.05.2011 at 12:02 pm

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #44)

posted by: sochi on 07.13.2011 at 11:19 pm in Kitchens Forum

Very cool table cat mom!

You can see my DR from the peninsula in my kitchen, so can I post something from my DR? I've been meaning to post this for a few months now. I finally added a living wall to my DR. I love it! Pretty unique I think. If I could, I would have done something similar right in the kitchen.

I may post a separate thread with the pics for the plant lovers here on GW.

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clipped on: 07.15.2011 at 11:37 am    last updated on: 07.15.2011 at 11:37 am

RE: Unique Things/Items about your Kitchen (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: cotehele on 07.12.2011 at 01:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

Not completely unique is the window behind the cooktop. It is trimmed like a hutch and has brackets under the hood/upper cabinets.

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The layout is unique (I think). The zones are very separated. The work area (food prep and cooking) functions like a galley kitchen. The aisle is 36'' wide. The beverage/breakfast zone is at the end of the island.

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Similar to a scullery, all the cleanup and dish storage is on the far wall.

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The kitchen has no oven. The ovens are in the bakery - it is close to the kitchen and visible from the kitchen's work island.

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Sorry these are old bakery pics.

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clipped on: 07.15.2011 at 11:33 am    last updated on: 07.15.2011 at 11:34 am

RE: eclectic mcm kit/dining/half bath reveal (LOTS pics) (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: MCMesprit on 07.15.2011 at 12:06 am in Kitchens Forum

Thanks so much everyone for the kind words. It means a lot to hear from so many who "get" our house. DH and I are from the west coast, but here in the upper Midwest homes like these (despite F.L. Wright's Wisconsin roots) are much less common. According to a long time resident of our city (she's lived here since 1949), this was "a very controversial house" when it was built in 1959. When I asked her why, she replied (with a twinkle in her eye) "Homes in this town are square"

I've attached a few more photos of the main level(living room, entry hall and stairs to second floor) to give you a sense of what made us fall in love with the house as soon as we walked in despite the obvious need for renovating the kitchen/laundry/half bath. Very few updates in these photos aside from new carpeting, painting of the stair rail, and wood veneering of what we fondly call "the pennants" (an original design of the architect).

fori -- I agree the half bath was awful! The architect's wife obviously had a greater say in the master bath. Think classic 50s PINK. Everywhere.... We're keeping it :)

marcolo -- you're so right -- that would be the best guest compliment! We've haven't yet had many guests since the last work was completed but we've heard this from several. Others (including a few best friends) aren't sure why we moved from a newer home they liked much better: one reassured us upon leaving that the renovations WERE an improvement! Sigh.

flyleft -- we so much appreciate your eye for detail. We too love the boomerang shelves -- would you believe they were an oops afterthought? We had originally intended to leave that corner empty (partly for cost reasons) and simply reveal the fireplace stone. But when the original cabinets were removed, we discovered that the fireplace stone did not go down to the counters but ended 2 feet above it. The new cabinets were already completed but our cabinetmaker whipped up this shelving design in less than a day -- his genius not ours. The "tiled pony-wall-height thing" in the laundry is actually a dog bath/shower. Original. Reinforced concrete. Took our GC and his crew a day to demolish. The original dining set belonged, alas, to the previous owner who sold us the house. (The home was filled with original period style furniture when we first viewed it -- amazing.)

mtnrdredux -- Believe it or not, we weren't particular fans of MCM when we saw this house (at least, any more than we liked craftsmen bungalows, late Victorians or Tudors.) But the big windows and vaulted ceilings and all the cool angles quickly won us over....

A FEW SHOTS OF THE LIVING ROOM, ENTRY HALL AND STAIR RAIL

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stair rail to upper level (it's a split level)

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Living room seen from informal dining area in back

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View of fireplace from entry hall

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Entry Hall


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clipped on: 07.15.2011 at 11:09 am    last updated on: 07.15.2011 at 11:09 am

The cabinets are in! What do you think about the touch of grey?

posted by: flatwater on 05.24.2011 at 07:08 pm in Kitchens Forum

All, at long last, the cabinets are finally in. We decided to go with a touch of grey (rather than white) for the cabinets. Island is dark stain for contrast. What do you think? The plan is for Persa Pearl for the countertops and absolute black for the island.

We have bought stainless steel appliances, but thinking of polished chrome for the faucets just to add a bit of sparkle. Much like jewelery. Would love to have Dornbracht faucets, but too expensive. Any suggestions for faucets and sink is much appreciated.

I am pleased with the appliance garage above the counter and the pull out shelves below at the blind corner. What do you think?

Also the batton strips on the wall, when painted the same color as the wall, and ceiling, sould give some texture to the wall. We where just playing around. What do you think?

Appreciate your comments and suggestions.

Thank you so much for all the help directly and indirectly through the many posts on this forum. You guys are simply amazing!

Below are a few pictures of the kitchen from today....

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clipped on: 05.27.2011 at 12:20 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2011 at 12:20 pm

RE: The cabinets are in! What do you think about the touch of gre (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: flatwater on 05.26.2011 at 06:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

Our cabinet maker was really good to work with. He made several useful suggestions including the Sharp Microwave drawer. We were skeptical about the drawer, but decided to go with it.

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The double stacked organizer for silverware should reduce the clutter

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and the pullout for the the spatulas and other big items too...

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not to mention the trays and other flat pans...

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We debated a lot about a trash compactor and in the end decided that we did not want to compact and keep the trash in the house any longer than is necessary. So went with the double garbage bin...

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What do you think?

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clipped on: 05.27.2011 at 12:19 pm    last updated on: 05.27.2011 at 12:20 pm

My Friend's B & A entry staircase

posted by: chijim on 05.04.2011 at 07:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Before was late 80's/early 90's Honey-color stained oak.

New banisters in darker walnut, balustrades, patterned runner and new chandelier that has to be lowered a bit.

Also, the foyer was painted in a lighter color.

Before:

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During:

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After:

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clipped on: 05.06.2011 at 01:51 pm    last updated on: 05.06.2011 at 01:51 pm

More College Ideas for Our Daughter (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: sweeby on 04.21.2011 at 09:03 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Here are a couple of great sites that I've kept bookmarked even though my older son is already in a college that he loves. I've kept these sites because they were so useful to us:

For consistent 'checklist' type information, IMO, Petersons.com and Princeton Review can't be beat. You can find basics like school size, SAT/ACT ranges, tuition information, Greek life, student diversity, most popular majors, class sizes, graduation rates, etc. Once you know what you're looking for, you can weed through a vast quantity of schools pretty quickly using those two sites.

I also liked Princeton Review's rankings. Not the 'Most Selective' type information, but rather the social rankings like 'Best Professors' and 'Gay Friendly' -- things that paint a picture of the campus culture. No, they're not perfect. But if there's something that really matters to you - such as environmentalism - you can easily find schools where that's important to them too, or indicators that's it's likely to be.

When you have a school in mind and want the 'real scoop' from the students who go there, StudentsReview.com is absolutely the place. You'll hear from students who LOVE the school and students who HATE it -- and every school has both camps. The useful parts are where the stories converge. The *reasons* why the haters hate the school and the things the gushers gush about. There's also a handy little graph showing what proportion of the students surveys would choose to go there again, and I found that very helpful. Schools where a large proportion of the students wouldn't go there again got crossed off my list.

The following are two nice little 'How to Choose' summaries that you may find helpful.

http://www.npr.org/2010/12/08/7506102/how-to-choose-a-college-that-s-right-for-you

http://www.college-scholarships.com/ten_rules_for_selecting_a_college_or_universities.htm

CollegeBoard.com also has a great all-purpose site that would be especially useful in the 'getting started' phase. Some nice articles on what to look for to determine 'fit' and how different factors (size, locale, Greek life, athletics) influence the college experience.

We did not find many of the database-type 'How to Choose' questionaires useful at all. Most either gave equal weight to all of the questions or weighted them using some other formula that didn't really apply to us. After a few tours, it became clear what factors were important to my DS, and many of those weren't on any of the questionaires...

Truly, the best strategy we found was to visit some colleges and just hang around for a few hours in the student union, quad, and library. Definitely take the official guided tour. And even if DD isn't interested in Texas schools, I'd strongly recommend you tour them anyway. They're close, easy to get to, easy to tour. You'll be able to tell whether she likes a big school or a small one, rural, urban or 'college town' environment, conservative or liberal, how (if) the architecture matters to her, what kind of student atmosphere she likes... See how she likes UT Austin's huge liberal urban campus or A&M's huge conservative rural one. How about Rice's tiny urban campus? Trinity? Baylor? SMU? Sam Houston State? Southwestern University (in Georgetown)? You'll be able to knock out a bunch of schools in just a few days and learn a lot about what she does and doesn't like that you can apply to schools in other areas that will be harder to get to.

As far as specifics -- you know Cornell has Hotel and Restaurant Administration (with food/culinary emphasis) as well as a variety of food science majors... And (as my Dad said) whatever else she'll want to transfer into ;-)

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clipped on: 04.22.2011 at 03:06 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2011 at 03:06 pm

Question for Magnaverde -- the challenge of the ugly or trite

posted by: awm03 on 11.22.2010 at 12:23 pm in Home Decorating Forum

What prompts my question (I'll get to it! It's waaay down at the bottom) was your post in makeithome's thread. It's insightful, funny, and so informative, I hope you don't mind me reposting it:

"The reason I could move back, and that I can look at these pics of 1977 & not cringe is that, unlike my friends' houses, I didn't own anything that was "in style" that year. I had no money (I was an art major) so all my stuff came from Goodwill, while my friends who were business or chemistry or math majors, all made decent incomes right off the bat. Also, they all got married right about that time, and they filled up their new houses with brand new sofas & loveseats in rust polyester velour or plaid Herculon, gigantic TV consoles (this was before "entertainment centers") and if they (or their wives) were really adventurous, they might have had smoked mirror tiles or cork squares glued to the walls. Smoked, gold-veined mirrors--on the diagonal--were very popular that year, I will say that.

Let's also say they don't have any of that stuff anymore. Some of them realized how ugly it all was early on, and replaced it all with patchwork upholstery in mauve & country blue--OK, this stuff was all their wives' idea--& big prints of young girls in big straw hats with ribbons, strolling along at the seashore & little arrangemets of country blue silk flowers on all the spindly little oak tables & weird assemblages of heart-shaped wire gizmos with cornhusk dolls attached with gingham bows, and some dangling candles &--get this--wheat: I don't know what the wheat thing was all about. Anyway, the "country" look was very popular that year.

Other couples hung onto their gigantic Herculon living rooms, because as ugly as the stuff was, it was also indestructible. Correction: is indestructible, and it will be clawing its way out of landfills--as colorful & stain-free as ever!--long after we're gone. My friends felt guilty throwing away something that still looked brand new, but eventually, they broke down & bought new stuff,this time, new "Southwestern" style pieces in allegedly "desert tones" of peach & teal, or, a few years later, they went in for overstuffed sofas in large-scale striped damask prints in burgundy, hunter green & navy, with gigantic brass lamps, or, later, they bought "Tuscan" dinettes wih heavy frames carved in China, & curlicue wineracks draped in plastic grapes & ivy, with reproduction wine posters or scenes of ancient castles at sunset, or--do you see where I'm going with this?

If any of them still have any of that that stuff--and if they keep up with the decorating magazines & 'designer' catalogs--they're sick of it, and ready to throw it all over. And for what? Probably some gigantic beigey-tanny-grayish ditressed leather sofa, a table that looks like it was made out of weathered packing skids, a gigantic clock that looks like rusty iron (but that ten-to-one is actually plastic) and a big, old-looking scroll deal with the names of a bunch of subway stops in a city they've never visited. The washed-out, cheerless look is very popular this year. I give it till the next election.

Here's the thing: history has a way of repeating itself, and not only in recycled decorating styles--and here, I'm thinking Mid-century Modern or Jonathan Adler's colorful Palm-Beach-Divorcee style--but also in feelings of embarrassment over the things we used to like, and the hard-earned money we spent on stuff that, these days, you couldn't give us for free because we wouldn't take it. Now, all that constant stylistic churn may be good for the economy--or, at least, for China's economy--but is it good for us? You tell me. No wonder people don't know what they like anymore. New looks are coming at us as fast as the candy on the conveyor belt on that old episode of I Love Lucy, and the only way to keep up with all the new trends is to keep swallowing whatever comes at us.

OR--we could move away from the machine.

And how do we do that? How does one break free of the apprently never-ending cycle--of infatuation with a hot new look, then of boredom with the same look? By doing it the way I did: by NOT looking to mass marketers--TV shows & magazines (at least current magazines) & blogs & trendy catalogs for style guidance. All they care about is convincing you that What You Like is what they just happen to have a whole warehouse full of. A whole warehouse that they need to empty ASAP, in order to make room for the next shipment of something else.

If you want to know what you really like--not what you're being primed to like by what we used to call Madison Avenue--get hold of a bunch of old decorating magazines & books. Here's why: once the temporary sheen of newness wears off things, you can better assess their stylistic value. If you look, say, at a 1989 House Beautiful or a 1963 Life Magazine or a 1935 House & Garden--it doesn't matter which magazine or period you choose, because the principle is the same--you'll see two kinds of rooms & two kinds of furniture, both in the ads & in the editorial pages: stuff you'd like to have today & stuff that's hideous."

But here's the amazing part: back then, to the people who bought those magazines new, it all looked good. Or, at least, they thought it did, because it was NEW. Today, now that none of it's new, we can better tell the good from the bad. And once you've looked at a dozen of those magazines or books, or six dozen of them, you'll have a pretty good idea of what sort of thing it is you really like. How do I know? because that's how I learned. Yes, I have an interior design degree, but they didn't teach any of this stuff in school. This is all stuff I learned before I ever quit my first career and went back to school. So, in the 1976s, when my friends & their wives were looking at 1976 magazines for "inspiration", I was looking at magazines from the 192Os & 1930s, and the stuff I liked had nothing to do with either what was temporarily in fashion in 1976, or what had been in fashion when the magazine was new. I was drawn to stuff because of its innate style, not because it had at one point been trendy. Believe me, there was plenty of once trendy stuff that, like i said, I wouldn't take if you gave me. Anyway, looking at old magazines allowed me to see stuff free from the then-current design propaganda that was trying to get me to buy that Herculon stuff. So when that stuff showed up at Goodwill or yard sales, I already knew I liked it.

I bought what I liked, while my pals (and their wives) bought what they thought they were supposed to like. Big difference. A few years later, my pals hated what they had been cajoled into buying, while I've still got all my stuff, which, incidentally, only cost a fraction of what ended up paying to J.C Penny or Spiegel on the installment plan.

Magnaverde Rule No. 14: If something isn't in style, it can't go out of style. "


And FINALLY my question:

Do you ever get the urge to use something cliche'd or common or ugly like, say, the smoked mirror tiles, asking yourself, "Can I make this look fresh or attractive?" Do you ever challenge yourself in that way?

Just curious. I think this is an attitude many of us get from having moved into previously owned homes with no $$$ for renovation -- what to do with the blue tile in the bathroom, the oak cabinets, even the smoked mirrors. I saw a room with mini-print wallpaper (late 70s fad, remember?) in a magazine several years ago. It looked surprisingly refreshing.

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clipped on: 03.09.2011 at 12:27 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2011 at 12:28 pm

DIY budget elegant bathroom, almost done: pics...

posted by: staceyneil on 02.02.2011 at 10:11 am in Bathrooms Forum

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your support and advice along the way with our latest project... we're ALMOST done but sort of stalled. We just need to add the door threshold and some pretty natural wood shelves above the toilet, but DH has moved on to other woodworking projects, so those little projects have been shoved down the list of priorities. Since it may be months before I get those shelves (and art/decor) up, I thought I'd at least post some pics of the room as it is now. Forgive the crappy lighting: it's snowing hard so there's no natural light :(

Project scope:
1956 bathroom with 1980's/90's tile, vanity, toilet. Tub was original but sadly unsalvageable: the enale was totally wrecked and stained and impossible to clean.
Suspected some subfloor issues due to leaks.
Budget: $2,500. (final total was a bit under $3,000... so we didn't do too badly :))

The layout was awkward, the door swing used so much of the floor space and only allowed a very small vanity. Since this is the hall/guest bath as well as the primary bath for my teenage daughter, we really needed to maximize storage and vanity space. I drew a new plan which involved moving the doorway to the perpendicular wall. As much as my DH balked at adding additional work, he admitted it was TOTALLY the right thing to do once we finished. The room feels SO much bigger now.

OLD BATHROOM and layout:

Some photos from during the renovation... which was planned to take 4 weekends and ended up taking about 6 or 7.....
DD sledge-hammering the old tile down

lots of rot in the subfloor

Self-leveling-compound poured over the radiant floor heat cables in the floor

The shower area waterproofed with Hydroban (LOVE LOVE LOVE that stuff!)

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NEW BATHROOM and layout plan:

DETAILS:
Since our budget was soooo tight, and we wanted to use quality materials and get a unique, custom bathroom, we had to get creative!!!

Tile:
I had a small amount (it was mostly random pieces and offcuts) of very $$$ calacatta marble mosaic tiles left over from a previous project that I knew I wanted to use. The other materials were chosen around that starting point. I designed niches to use that tile in, as accent, based on the quantity I had. I used inexpensive white marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot for the shelves.

For the rest of the tile, I needed to use super-cheap stuff (the entire room is tiled to chair-rail height), but I didn't want it to look cheap or ubiquitous. I would have used subways, but DD emphatically vetoed them. It's her bathroom, and we let her have a LOT of design input. Since we have other areas in the house that use square tile in a running-bond pattern, I decided to use 4x4s, which are the cheapest anyway, but in a running bond rather than stacked pattern. After bringing home samples of the big-box cheapies, I decided to "splurge" (20 cents more per tile, I think, it was about $2.35 per sf after sales and discounts)) on Lowes next-step-up American Olean Ice White, which has a slight rippled surface that catches the light and adds a layer of interest that the flat, cheaper Gloss White doesn't have.

For the floor, we used American Olean 12 x 18 Pietra Bianco, a limestone-look ceramic tile that I'm surprisingly happy with :) Underneath the tile is radiant-heat cable, so the floor is wonderfully cozy and warm.

Floor grout is Latapoxy epoxy.
Wall/shower grout is Tec Accucolor XT, a super-modified grout that supposed to be a lot more stain-resistant (PITA to work with, though!)

Hardware:
DD wanted girly, vintage-looking stuff, a big departure from DH and my modern aesthetic. We narrowed down the style range, then I started watching eBay for deals. We scored about $750 worth of valves and faucets and stuff for about $275.
Vanity faucet: Moen Monticello
Shower faucet valve, trim, tub spout: Moen Monticello with Thermostatic valve
Shower head: Grohe Relexa Ultra on slide bar (LOVE!)
(after working with a bunch of faucets recently, I can say that the Moen monticello stuff is pretty cruddy compared to the Grohe RElexa, Kohler Purist, and HansGrohe stuff I've used recently.)
Towel bars and tissue holder are Ginger Hotelier.
Curved shower rod is the Crescent Rod. I tried some expandable ones they had locally, but this one (ordered on line for the same price) is SO much sturdier and nicer-looking. It also makes the shower space much larger.

Toilet:
Toto Carolina that we got at a yard sale for $150 including the Washlet seat (which we removed). We were driving down the street and DD -who professes to HATE anything renovation-related- said, "Hey, look, Mom... isn;t that one of those skirted toilets you like?" SCORE.

Tub:
American Standard Princeton ~$300 at Lowes. yeah, we chipped it right away by dropping a tool on it while installing the faucets; luckily there's a repair kit that actually does a pretty amazing job :) We used the American Standard "Deep Soak" drain, which adds a couple inches water depth for baths. I wanted DD to use her OWN bathtub rather than my new one in the master bath :)

Vanity:
an old dresser. We bought it on Craigslist for $40, and DH reworked the drawers to fit the plumbing. He also added modern drawer slides so that they work easily. We bought fabulous vintage glass knobs on eBay (if you're looking for vintage knobs, check out this seller: billybobbosen.)

I painted it BM Dove Wing.
We totally went over budget on the vanity top. I'd intended to bet a remnant of granite... but of course couldn't find one DD and I liked. Then we found this little slab of Vermont White quartzite in the "exotics" bone pile at a local yard. It was over budget but we loved it. Then, of course, we decided that rather than a plain square front, it had to be cut to fit the curvy front of the dresser... which added about $100. So the vanity top was our biggest expense at $480.

Medicine cabinet:
A salvaged cabinet we got at the local Habitat for Humanity REStore about 2 years ago. We framed it into the wall (where the old door used to be), painted it, and I tiled the little shelf area with my calacatta mosaic accent tiles and marble baseboard pieces from Home Depot.

Lighting:
Pottery Barn wall fixture from eBay
Ikea ceiling fixture (like $8 each and rated for bathrooms!)
Fan/showerlight combo is a recessed, can-style fixture by Broan/NuTone. It's AWESOME. Quiet, unobtrusive.

That's all I can think of right now. I think once we have the natural wood shelves up over the toilet, with DD's shell collection and a plant on them, it will give a little but of softness/naturalness which the room needs. It's a little TOO "elegant" right now :)

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clipped on: 02.02.2011 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2011 at 12:24 pm

RE: All about Wythe Blue / the properties of color (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: funcolors on 02.02.2010 at 12:39 pm in Home Decorating Forum

For instance, should I have gone with a more saturated color, like Wythe in my bedroom due to its poor lighting?

First, I'd wonder if you could do something to improve the lighting situation. I know it's not always feasible to do that tho. Sometimes time and budget only allow for paint.

More saturated, less muted colors are often a good pairing with light that is dim, not robust. If it feels to you that the quality of light is a bit one-dimensional, or flat, or seemingly has a quality to it that just isn't very *full*, then it can be a good idea to add a wall color to the atmosphere that is the opposite of all those things -- like you stated, 'more saturated'. More saturated can help bust thru the dimness or grayed quality of light and deliver more color to the eye.

But you don't want vivid either. :-) You want to try to strike the right balance between the light and the colorfulness or chroma in the paint color.

One popular tip (that I like to dismiss) is to choose a paint chip that you like and then 'go one up'. Supposedly, that tip is meant to help you avoid choosing wall colors that are too dark, too colorful, just too much in general. The 'going one up' tip is meant to address the fact that wall colors grow more intense as they cover more area. This example is a good reason why tips like that don't work. In the case of poor lighting, 'going one up' on the strip probably isn't the best fit because more value, more color is the better partner for poorly lit rooms.

Would a warmer color have been a better choice in a poorly lit room?

Maybe. Maybe not. Since I'm on the topic of tips today, :-D, another one is to align the cool and warm sides of a color wheel with a compass. Meaning the cool side of the color wheel lines up with south and the warm side of the wheel lines up with north. Warm colors are suppose to be the better fit for cool, low light. Cool colors are suppose to go with warm, intense light. Like the other color tip, this north/warm and south/cool color tip has flaws too.

A poorly lit room is still going to be a poorly lit room whether it's painted a warm color or a cool color. What changes with color temperature is mood and *feel* in the space. So if you think a warmer wall color would improve your perception of how your poorly lit room would feel, function, and fit with the other elements in the room then a warmer color would have been the better choice. The flip side to that is someone else might perceive the cooler color with the poor light as restful, calm, serene and maybe even more cohesive with the room's contents.

So, the warmer and cooler thing is really more about aligning color with desired mood, function, expectations, and color tolerance than it is about trying to manage the quality of light into something that it isn't. Because you're not going to be successful managing the quality of light into something it isn't just by painting the walls -- poorly lit is going to stay that way until you buy more lamps or change window treatments, etc.

The subject of paring a dark wall color with poor light is another part of the discussion but not directly relative to you question so I'll skip that and move on.

What accents colors will make my walls appear less gray and either more blue or more green?

That's the easier question of the bunch. Juxtaposing color that is opposite or complementary to blue and green should help coax out from the gray a sense of more blue or green. Complementary colors would be oranges and reds.

If you think about it, Acid green or chartreuse is opposite in a sense too. That kind of vibrant accent color would be opposite the neutralized grayed aspect of Quietude. Opposite and complementary is not exclusive to the level of contrast that is hue, like blue-orange, green-red. Vibrant juxtaposed to dull is a level of color contrast that's available to you to use as well -- and it could very well work to help you feel like some of the grayness of Quietude has been balanced out.

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clipped on: 02.02.2010 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 02.02.2010 at 06:34 pm

Gimp 2.6 tutorial videos are done!

posted by: roobear on 11.13.2009 at 10:09 am in Home Decorating Forum

There are 18 Gimp program screen recorded tutorials (with sound) free to download if you would like to learn how to use the computer program Gimp to "photoshop" images for exterior and interior home decorating and personal art. The videos are numbered in order for you to watch. My advice is to go through the videos and try to memorize/learn each section before moving on to the next video. If you watch too many videos at once, it could get a little overwhelming.

Download Instructions for PC

Step 1. Download the Program Gimp 2.6 here http://download.cnet.com/GIMP/3000-2192_4-10073935.html?tag=mncol if you already have downloaded Gimp 2.6, go on to step 2.

Step 2. The Gimp videos are in MP4 file format for smaller file size so you will need to Download QuickTime Media Player in order to play the videos. Download QuickTime Player here unless you already have it on your computer. http://download.cnet.com/Apple-QuickTime/3000-2139_4-10002208.html?tag=mncol

Step 3. I have uploaded the videos two different ways, one is all the individual 18 videos you can just download, the second is two compressed zipped files. If you choose to download the two zipped files, you will have to unzip or extract them after you download with a program like Winzip.

Download Regular 18 videos here http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=66f1684be18cedc9d8f14848abf485dd2ffa8fe66bdf371ef85d402b9fc3640c
You can either click on a video to download or move the mouse to the right by the word "share" and the "download" option should pop up next to it.

Or

Download the 2 zipped files here http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=66f1684be18cedc9d8f14848abf485ddf3fabeb07093d37487095ac91101628c

Step 5. Once the videos are downloaded you can left mouse click on them and go to the "open with" option and choose "QuickTime". These videos will not play in windows media player.

*If your movies are not playing in QuickTime, check to make sure your hardware acceleration is set to full.
To do this, Left Click the Mouse on an open area on the desktop, in the pop up menu go down to the "properties" option. This will bring up the Display windows, Click on the "settings" tab then click on the "advanced" button. It will open up another window, in that window click on the "troubleshoot" tab and make sure the "Hardware Acceleration" is set to "Full".

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clipped on: 11.16.2009 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 11.16.2009 at 11:27 am

RE: Quality of LIght (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: magnaverde on 04.01.2009 at 01:29 pm in Home Decorating Forum

Hi Barb5.

The fact that your dining room is very traditional is a good indication that your chandelier should look good with candleshades on the bulbs. Yes, they may be fashionanble at the moment, but they're a very old solution (sort of) to a very old problem: glare. I say an 'old' solution because early tungesten bulbs were considered uncomfortably bright & glaring to people who had grown up with candles or kerosene, or even gas, or who had electricity at home but who had become accustomed to the gentle amber glow that came from carbon-filament bulbs, and shades were the easiest way to diminish said harsh glare. And I said shades were were 'sort of' a solution because they don't stop the glare right where it's most problematic--directly below the fixture, where people sit.

Even a dimmer won't help much when you're talking about a direct source straight in the eye, since even a 4-watt nightlight seems like glare to some people, especially in an otherwise darkened room. In fact, the dimmer the surrounding room, the more glaring the actual bulb will seem to be, no matter how low the wattage. Forty watts isn't much--especially if the bulbs are cranked down on a dimmer--but any unshaded light source can cause glare. That's why a lot of traditional dining rooms rely not only on chandeliers above the table, but on wall brackets around the room, which brackets can be fitted with one-sided shades that mask the direct light but brighten the ambiant light in the room with general illumination bounced off the walls. If you don't feel like tearing up the plaster to install new wall brackets, you might try adding torcheres--above eye level so you don't see the source--in the corners of your room, and putting them on dimmers as well, to create a soft overall glow to the room, which will in turn minimaze the glare effect from the chandleier. In general, lots of low soft lights is always better than one hard bright light source--even if it's a nice fixture. If you don't like the ideas of torcheres, you could add tall buffet lamps on a sideboard to do the same thing, the way I did in my dining room. To keep the light where I wanted it--on the ceiling for reflectance, not in people's eyes--I used opaque shades on the lamps. Basically, though, anything that spreads the light out from its current single source will help.

Another thing is the bulbs themselves. I like clear bulbs in lamps near walls because I like the hard-edged pools of light they create on the walls, but where they're seen directly, frosted bulbs are better. And the larger the bulb size--and I'm not talking about wattage, but physical size--the more spread out & less point-like the source will seem to be, and therefore, the less annoying to your family & guests. In my own dining room chandelier, I use t-8 aquarium bulbs because I like the contrast of the industrial-looking linear filaments against the traditional furniture, but for most people, I recommend not a flame-shaped bulb but a regular frosted A-lamp, which were frequently used--un-shaded--in the 192Os, even in traditional chandeliers.

At any rate, the quality of light (and the various ways of modulating it for specific purposes) is a fascinating subject. I hope maybe this will help you out a little .

Regards,
Magnaverde.

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clipped on: 04.30.2009 at 11:39 am    last updated on: 04.30.2009 at 11:39 am