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RE: diamond tile like on Oprah and Home Mag (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: mnhockeymom on 02.26.2008 at 10:24 pm in Kitchens Forum

I've got the harlequin (diamond) tile - mine's from Horus Art Ceramiche:

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clipped on: 03.21.2008 at 03:02 am    last updated on: 03.21.2008 at 03:02 am

information for cheap solid wood doors for ikea cabinets

posted by: reyesuela on 09.04.2007 at 08:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

I posted a while ago about my remodel in which I planned to use custom wood doors on IKEA cabinets for a more traditional, custom look. I've been overwhelmed with the move and so haven't been with it enough to post results or info, BUT now I can! I don't have pics in a good form still, though--I may at some point, but not yet.

Anyhow, the results were fabulous and cheaper than any but the cheapest IKEA doors! I took in actual IKEA doors because they're really in metric, not English, units and had them measured on-site. AT MY REQUEST, THE COMPANY IS SAVING THE IKEA MEASUREMENTS FOR FUTURE REMODELERS! So this means that you won't have to buy more than, at most, a few IKEA doors or drawers because they already know what 6, 12, 15, 25, 30, etc., "inches" on IKEA cabinets really is!

The company is called Evans Cabinet and Doors. This is their website: http://evanscabinetanddoor.com/. Their work is top-quality and SUPER FAST--as in, my stuff was ready a week after I ordered it. The price simply can't be beat, and they ship all over the country for very reasonable rates.

On the stained cabinetry, they do NOT do bookmatching or other super high-end work (you'd have to go completely custom and be paying more than $500 a linear foot for cabinetmakers who do that), but the stuff is still really, really nice--it can meet or beat any of the major cabinet brands.

I had a ridiculous number of doors--nearly 100--and they didn't make a single mistake.

They can also drill holes that fit the IKEA door hardware, taking a lot of the frustration out of it.

Please spread this to anyone who is interested! I love to see people who do such great work for such a bargain rewarded!

These are their door designs:

http://evanscabinetanddoor.com/doors.htm

Evans doesn't do the glass inserts themselves on regular door orders, but they make the doors for the inserts.

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clipped on: 11.18.2007 at 05:29 pm    last updated on: 11.18.2007 at 05:29 pm

RE: Great Custom Cabinet Maker in the San Francisco Bay Area? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: ny888 on 08.09.2007 at 12:34 pm in Kitchens Forum

I used New Look Woodworking in San Francisco for our custom maple cabinets for the kitchen as well as the office. Very happy with them.

It turned out to be cheaper than semi-custom.

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clipped on: 11.18.2007 at 01:04 am    last updated on: 11.18.2007 at 01:04 am

RE: Bay Area (East Bay) granite places (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: shaughnn on 10.30.2007 at 08:33 am in Kitchens Forum

Alpha Granite & Marble in San Leandro has the largest selection in the East Bay, and they offer fabrication as well. But between 4th and Marina there are about 12 slab retailers to browse.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 09:57 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 09:57 pm

RE: Bay Area (East Bay) granite places (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shezzy_in_sj on 10.29.2007 at 12:32 pm in Kitchens Forum

Intertile in San Leandro has a lot on display in a gorgeous showroom. We got our slabs from their San Jose store but San Leandro has more and is closer to your East Bay request. They are very professional and on top of their business. Because they service more the residential development builders on large-scale projects, they absolutely know what they're doing, and have been doing for years and years.

If you happen to go there, though, and find you are not getting optimum customer care, post here and let me know. I know one of the managers (not a salesperson, though) as a friend of a friend and I could try to have him look into it. But I'd rather not "drop" his name here at this point.

I've linked to their website and their database of 182 granites. They also have travertine, limestone, and marble.

Down here is San Jose, near the SJ airport, All Natural Stone is another really reputable and reliable granite store with a lot of variety and pretty good customer service. Sometimes on a Saturday, it is hard to wrangle yourself a salesperson right away, but just do what my DH did and mosey on over to their rows of pink boxes of donuts and coffee while you browse and wait. A bit of a drive from the East Bay, but just one more suggestion.

Here is a link that might be useful: Intertile

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 09:55 pm

RE: Bay Area (East Bay) granite places (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: sleepydrj on 10.29.2007 at 01:13 am in Kitchens Forum

We went to Sun Marble several times and they were very helpful to us. They are in the east bay (Hayward?). We were actually shopping for soapstone, and they had some beautiful slabs. They are not the largest source, but the customer service was outstanding.

There is a very large place close to San Francisco on the peninsula, that I would recommend avoiding, however. Extremely rude, and apparently this is their reputation generally.

Ultimately we bought from DaVinci Marble on the peninsula. Very good customer service, and knockout soapstone. Again, not the largest place.

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 09:54 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 09:54 pm

RE: Planning my cabs - what's your favorite cabinet feature? (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: buehl on 11.05.2007 at 09:53 pm in Kitchens Forum

Haven't even ordered our cabinets yet (this Friday!) But, here are a few threads that might be useful:

Best advice from this forum

Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas?

Now that I have [X], I think I could have lived without it

tray cabinets - top 1/2 wasted space

What do you wish you had done differently?

They have a lot of information on just your topic...as well as other related information.

HTH!

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clipped on: 11.17.2007 at 09:06 pm    last updated on: 11.17.2007 at 09:06 pm

RE: White/off-white subway - grout color??? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: soigne on 11.16.2007 at 02:09 pm in Kitchens Forum

Grout = Tec, Dove Gray

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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interesting cabinet handles
clipped on: 11.16.2007 at 03:43 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2007 at 03:43 pm

RE: White/off-white subway - grout color??? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: jejvtr on 11.16.2007 at 09:57 am in Kitchens Forum

I would agree w/Bill V (he's the expert, how can one not agree? ;) -
That said bunglogirl brings a valid pt - I would not put white grout in a kitchen or a floor -

this is Mapei siliver on white subways in master bath
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

this is tumbled crema marfil w/a close matching grout in kit backsplash
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

I would recommend, esp given your experience, to get a board apply some tiles w/different grout colors put it up in the kitchen & live w/it before you do the actual application

good luck

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Subway tile installation detail photo
clipped on: 11.16.2007 at 03:42 pm    last updated on: 11.16.2007 at 03:43 pm

RE: Care to share your best kitchen storage ideas? (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: dianalo on 07.28.2007 at 10:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi,
I copied the following from the IKEA fans website a few months back. I love the ingenuity...
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

So now you can tell your contractor it does not take a lot of space to make a broom closet, lol.
HTH

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clipped on: 07.29.2007 at 09:30 pm    last updated on: 07.29.2007 at 09:30 pm

RE: Trash pullout inside 36-inch sink base? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: talley_sue_nyc on 06.04.2007 at 06:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I put a pullout in a 27" sink base!

Here's what my KD told me--and he was right.

Put the trash can on the opposite site from the DW (bcs the DW has to attach to the drain).

Have the sink drain run straight back to the wall (I have a center hole, so that makes it easy; a double sink would make it harder). My drain *had* to start running sideways immediately, but fortunately, that direction was *also* toward the dishwasher.

Have the plumber put ALL the cut-off valves, etc., on the same side as the DW. (on the opposite side from where the trash will be)

I was lucky--all that stuff fit most naturally on the left anyway. And so I could put my trash on the right.

There is *nothing* on the right side of my sink. Not a pipe to be found.

one nice thing: there's a space between trash pullout and DW, and I can stand in it. (OK, it's only 13.5" wide, but it's wide enough!)

I don't have a disposal (though if I had a slightly wider sink base, I could)

My MIL has a double sink, and she put the trash on the side without the disposal. (like you, she put the disposal in the short sink) She *did* notch her plastic trash cans so they would fit around it. Which means they wear out more easily.

One of these years, I'm going to go to her house w/ a tape measure, and then go get the duct-work company to make a zinc trash can the right size, w/ the notches and everything, so it'll be more durable.

I think if you can fit a medium-size trash can in there, you oculd fit a pullout. If a ready-made one won't fit, get a handyman/installer type person to help you fit a drawer in there to set the trash can in.

(one of my doors pulls out--the one w/ the trash--and the other swings open. you can't tell from the outside. Function trumps, in my opinion.)

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clipped on: 06.04.2007 at 07:05 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2007 at 12:44 am

RE: Do towels really stay on hooks? (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: buffalotina on 02.05.2007 at 10:47 am in Bathrooms Forum

I love the towel hooks I used. I am so glad I got the idea of hooks from this forum. They are easy to use, the towels get dry, and DH finds it easy to put his towel on the hook:

The hooks I used are from Restoration Hardware, the big flat bit on top makes it really easy to get the towel on and keep it on:

For those following the other towel thread, these towels are RIGHT next to the toilet AND I have towels above it - no other choice in my small bathroom:

Tina

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clipped on: 07.20.2007 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2007 at 12:59 pm

RE: Tile design suggestions (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: meg711 on 07.17.2007 at 12:02 am in Kitchens Forum

You're very welcome. I'm glad that I was able to help.

When I was planning our backsplash Bill Vincent had given me some great advice about varying the heights of the accent tiles, and I got considerable help from looking at a couple kitchens on the FKB (take a look at Mary_228's kitchen). I still remember when I stayed up almost all night trying to figure out where to put the tiles. Not a pleasant night. I just had a little tweaking to do the next day when I spoke to the tile guy.

As far as the area behind the stove, it's hard to tell how much room there is to work with. I really wanted a herringbone pattern and also wanted to incorporate the glass accents so I came up with this:

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 07.17.2007 at 12:13 am    last updated on: 07.17.2007 at 12:14 am

RE: Traditional Black/White Bath (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: tussymussy on 12.17.2006 at 11:19 am in Bathrooms Forum

Sorry it took so long, but I'm challenged with transferring these digital images. Here are some more shots of our new bath.

Here is a link that might be useful: More Bath Shots

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Chloe tile
silver grout
1x6 black gloss tile
shelf rail
clipped on: 07.15.2007 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 07.15.2007 at 09:42 pm

RE: old house--new bathroom (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: anna_chosak on 06.22.2005 at 12:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Thanks, Sally and Trish! After more than a year, I'm still enjoying this bathroom so much. :-)

I finally have some better pictures of the tile that someone else took for me. Here they are:



Basketweave marble tile, border of 4x4" unpolished Ming, base tiles, Ming pencil trim, and white subway tiles.



Closeup of basketweave patterned floor tile.

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clipped on: 07.07.2007 at 11:45 pm    last updated on: 07.07.2007 at 11:45 pm

RE: Anyone want to help with tille? I'm overwhelmed... (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: oruboris on 07.05.2007 at 01:03 am in Flooring Forum

Here's a version of 'Versailles', a favorite of mine because it looks random without being random. Keeps all your grout lines short, which I like:

As you can see, it uses four different sizes. If you wanted to use something like this, it would be wise to choose a line of tiles that offer the necessary dimensions rather than trying to cut them to fit. It's also a nice pattern to mix 2 or more colors if [like me] you can't decide on just one.

So my advice would be to choose a color pallet you like, make note of the sizes offered, and seek a pattern accordingly.

Keep in mind you can also do medallions, insets, borders... tile is ideal for creative thinkers.

Here is a link that might be useful: some tile patterns

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clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 12:52 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 12:52 pm

RE: subway tile choices (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: gardenergwen on 07.05.2007 at 09:56 am in Kitchens Forum

Chiming in as someone who has used Lowe's Subway Tiles and is incredibly pleased with them after having them in our kitchen for the last year. We also went with a gray grout (a Polyblend color actually from Home Depot) called Oyster Gray. I really like the color because it is a warm gray with a bit of a beige-like tone to it. When we looked at the traditional gray grout colors in our kitchen, they all looked quite cold and blue toned.

Here's a pic:

Everyone that walks into our kitchen comments that they love our backsplash. I don't think it reads "inexpensive 19 cent tile" at all. :)

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clipped on: 07.06.2007 at 12:41 pm    last updated on: 07.06.2007 at 12:41 pm

RE: Lighting ABOVE (uplights) Cabinets & Additional lighting Opin (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dmlove on 06.29.2007 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

Dragonfly, your picture size is great - not a problem.

Like you, we have an open kitchen with cabinets that do not go up to the ceiling (not a vaulted ceiling, though). This is what we have for lighting:

Island - one decorative pendant, about 240 watts incandescent total light (candelabra style bulbs). The fixture is gorgeous (IMHO!), the light "not so much" because it's an inverted pendant with onyx acrylic shade. Still, it's a lot better than no light, and we have a second prep area with better light.

Other prep area - this one has a light bridge over it, just 4' above the counter. Two 4" recessed 50-watt halogen fixtures and they are fantastic for task lighting.

General room lights - 6 5" 26-watt compact fluorescent recessed cans.

Undercabinet lights - Juno T5 (I think) fluorescent strips.

Overcabinet lights - Juno fluorescent strips (not sure of size), some of which are doubled up to give us more wattage so we can satisfy Title 24 (which requires no more than 50% of the total wattage in the kitchen to be incandescent).

We have no specific light over the sink - just general room lighting. I don't stand at the sink long enough to need light :)

We used fluorescent so much because of Title 24. Also, I'm not a fluorescent hater, in fact, I like it in some settings. We use the undercabinet lights for ambiance, or when using those counters. The above-cabinet lights are used for ambiance or to add to the general room lighting (and believe me, they add a lot). For task lighting, though, there's no question but that the halogens are the best.

HTH.

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clipped on: 06.29.2007 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2007 at 12:32 pm

another dyi kitchen almost completed....pix

posted by: lorinscott_1 on 03.08.2006 at 02:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm totally loving my "new" kitchen! We tore out the lovely 60's everything....harvest gold metal cabinets, wallpaper, vinyl flooring....and redid it, the laundry room and powder room. We picked out the cabinets from a nearby cabinet showroom and hubby did the installation himself. Here's a list of what we did:
New cabinets: Diamond Signature from The Kitchen Store in
Culver City, CA....ivory with toasted almond
glaze
New countertop: Uba Tuba granite slabs (didn't DYI)
Electrical: 9 recessed lights on dimmers, two pendant
lights over breakfast nook/peninsula, rope
lights above cabinets, in-cabinet xenon lights.
Electrician helped with installation of reces-
sed lights. New light fixture in powder room.
Flooring: Pergo Select laminate stone floor
Window Treatments: from Mar-C's Interiors, South Carolina
Backsplash: Backsplash By Design at Expo in Honed Traver-
tine and Tumbled Marble, Bronze inserts and
Uba Tuba granite detail
Appliances: KitchenAid Superba dishwasher
KitchenAid bottom freezer cabinet depth refrig.
JenAir 30" black ceramiglass downdraft cooktop
JenAir double convection wall ovens
Pegasus slate colored granite sink (main)
American Standard stainless bar sink
PricePfister Marielle faucet (main)
PricePfister bar faucet
Maytag Neptune stacking washer & dryer
Pedestal sink and toilet in powder room (Lowes)
Oil rubbed bronze Victorian faucet (Lowes)
Glass gallery-rail shelf (Lowes)


Here is a link that might be useful: my space at MSN

NOTES:

Downdraft cooktop with cabinets overhead
clipped on: 06.26.2007 at 06:59 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2007 at 06:59 pm

Ivorykay's Finished Kitchen- Ready for Blog

posted by: ivorykay on 04.07.2007 at 03:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here's our finished kitchen! Started in July 2006, fully operational again in October, and finally finished in April 2007.
The remodel included replacement of a sliding door and a window (both different sizes from the original), removal of an existing closet, and moving an interior doorway. All in all, we are very happy with it!
The details:
Cabinets- Woodmode 84 Series, Regency recessed door style in Vintage White
Hardware- Lisbon brushed black nickel, knobs and pulls (myknobs.com)
Counter- Angola Blue granite (black with blue inclusions)
Floor- Durodesign cork Cleopatra tiles in Cognac and Black
Backsplash- Porcelanosa L'Antic frosted glass in Glacier creama matte and grises matte mixes
Pendant lights- RSLightDesign.com Sequoia Sapphire (after MUCH searching)
Stools- Walnut Biedermier Counter Stool (overstock.com)
Ovens- GE Profile Advantium 110v and GE Profile 30" Convection
Refrigerator- GE Profile French Door PFS22S
Freezer- Subzero Freezer Drawers 700BFI
Sink- Franke Orca
Faucet- Bach BK110 pull out
Dishwasher- KitchenAid Dish Drawers
Downdraft- Thermador 30" CVS 600 CFM (cooking.com)
Cooktop- Kenmore 30" induction
Paint- custom color (Y.O 1y, Green 1y, Black 19- if this means anything to you!)

What we learned: always check the kitchen designers measurements, don't fear internet deals and research is your friend (up to a point!). Kudos to Durodesign, cooking.com, myknobs.com, RSLightingdesign.com, and needplumbingsupplies.com for great online service, delivery and prices.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ivorykay Kitchen Remodel

NOTES:

Full overlay doors
Cream cabinets
Franke Orca
clipped on: 06.26.2007 at 06:46 pm    last updated on: 06.26.2007 at 06:46 pm

'Period-Inspired' (aka Pottery Barn) FINISHED Bath Pics - finally

posted by: buffalotina on 08.09.2006 at 10:06 pm in Bathrooms Forum

THANKS to everyone who helped me with great advice, inspiration and moral support... especially Johnmari and Bill V.! (Bill - my tub-tile joint is active again... look out for a post!!!).

Ranchreno, here are my Kohler Memoirs pictures. How is your bath coming along?

Johnmari, keep your posts coming. Can't wait to see pictures of your bath as it progresses.

Here are the 'specs' for my new bathroom (6 months in the making!)

Sink: Kohler Memoirs Stately (24 inch version)
Toilet: Kohler Memoirs Stately One Piece
Bathtub: Kohler Bancroft

Sink Faucet: Kohler Memoirs Stately with Deco Handles (Polished Chrome)
Shower Valve & Trim: Kohler Master Shower (Polished Chrome)
Showerhead: Kohler Forte Handheld (Polished Chrome)

Wall Tile: American Olean Greenwich Village Designer White (Matte)
Floor Tile: American Olean Unglazed 1' porcelain in White with Sterling Silver accents
Grout: Spectralock Pro in Smoke Grey (wall and floor)
Beadboard: Nantucket Beadboard painted with Benjamin Moore semi-gloss finish in Super White
Walls: Benjamin Moore Pearl finish in Yarmouth Bue

Medicine Cabinet: Rejuvenation Mendenhall
Pendant Light: Rejuvenation Humboldt (Polished Nickel)
Wall Sconce: Rejuvenation Siletz (Polished Nickel)
Towel Rack, Ring & Toilet Tissue Holder: Restoration Hardware Asbury (Polished Nickel)
Towel and Robe Hooks: Restoration Hardware Chatham (Polished Nickel)
Glass Shelf Stand: Restoration Hardware Newbury (Polished Nickel)
Alcove Drawer Unit: Container Store
Alcove Shelf Baskets: Ten Thousand Villages
Shower Curtain & Towels: Restoration Hardware (Silver Sage)

To Do: Simple white curtain for window and white liners for shelf baskets

Thanks!!

Tina

Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Bath Pics

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clipped on: 06.01.2007 at 12:59 am    last updated on: 06.26.2007 at 12:58 am

RE: Your favorite cabinet finish??? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: shawneeks on 06.25.2007 at 11:33 am in Kitchens Forum

Our wall cabinets are stained and island painted. Both were then glazed and then polyurethaned.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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Interesting cabinet heights
Nice finish.
clipped on: 06.25.2007 at 04:08 pm    last updated on: 06.25.2007 at 04:08 pm

RE: Question about Franke Orca sink (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: franki1962 on 06.18.2007 at 05:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

We only have one soap dispnser and it's on the right side. We did not have any room between the left edge of the sink and the sink cabinet backing underneath it for any fittings. We have Faucet, soap, air button and instant hot water

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 06.18.2007 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 06.18.2007 at 05:56 pm

RE: bead board backsplash transition (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: zelmar on 06.14.2007 at 09:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks fauxnecian, I guess I'm not very good at taking pictures once projects are almost complete. Here are a few more pictures I took on the same day as the other one (none of toilet end.) The bathroom's mostly done now with the beadboard finished off and the upper portion painted a blue/turquoise. DH built a large shallow cabinet above the toilet that spans the width of the room. We still have to do lighting fixtures and ceiling (being left open to access plumbing for upstairs projects.) The room is 3'x6' and I couldn't figure out how to get a bigger view.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 06.17.2007 at 05:17 pm    last updated on: 06.17.2007 at 05:17 pm

certifiable ths tko finished kitchen (long)

posted by: thull on 08.03.2006 at 04:07 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finally finished up our remodel to the point where we could move back in a few weeks ago. Have a lot of projects still to be done around the house, but the kitchen and master bath are done enough to show.

I'm going to try to insert pix as I go, so I apologize to anyone on a slow connection. And the photos aren't the greatest in terms of lighting. Taking them at night and keeping a good exposure balance wasn't easy.

The particulars:

Cabinets: Scherr's, doors are shaker with solid center panel in select cherry
Knobs/pulls: Knob Hill "martini" knob (HD only) and Liberty "retro curl" pull (knobsandthings.com)
Range: Bluestar 36" RNB, six burners
Hood: Vent-a-hood SEPXH18-242
Granite: Verde Butterfly, 3cm
Wall paint: BM, color is 1301, I forget the name of the red
Dishwasher: Kitchenaid KUDS02FRSS
Sink: Rohl Allia 6337 undermount
Faucet: Brizo Venuto in stainless w/ soap dispenser
Disposal: Insinkerator 444 w/ air switch
Fridge: Kitchenaid KSCS25INSS
Convection/Micro: GE JE1590
Pendants: forget brand- low voltage amber pyramid pendants from HD
Backsplash: 1x1 slate mosaic w/ "antique grey" outlet covers from Vermont Slate Art
UC Lights: GE Profile fluorescent
Floor: 3/4" oak strip, mixed new and c. '49; Minwax "Golden Oak" stain, Bona Traffic finish

OK, here's the overview. We haven't found counter stools yet, but there's a 12" overhang in the front of the island. It's supported by 3/8" steel bars, and the two center panels are actually doors to a cabinet. The island is roughly 5' x 8'.

Basically, before the project, this was two rooms, with a wall that lined up where the middle of the hood/range is. Left was the dining room, and the kitchen to the right.

Here's the view to one side of the island. Left of the door is the bar (where the plastic lock is on the door). The wall cabs are 13" deep.

The glass-front cabinets house our "company" dishes and various glassware. The 36" wide drawer bases below have everyday dishes, nice flatware, and various trays/bowls/baking dishes.

Here's a couple of closer views of the island and wall w/ the range. To the left of the range is a cabinet w/ tray dividers and a 4-drawer stack. Pot and pan drawers (30", 2-drawer stack) are to the right of the range)

Here's the wall w/ pantry cabs, more drawers, the fridge and MW. The big cab to the L of the fridge has pullout trays. We have another pantry in the laundry room (outside the french door in the other photos), and we haven't worked out what to put in each yet. Drawers to the L of fridge have everyday flatware, punkin gear, and overflow pots/pans. Drawers under microwave have bags/wraps, plastic ware, and colanders/mixing bowls. Above the MW are everyday glassware and misc stuff.


Closer view of the range:

Bad, but closer view of the backsplash:

Next is the sink/faucet/DW. Left of the sink (not pictured) are two cabs, one w/ a Rev-a-shelf trash pullout, and the other a skinny one for cutting boards w/ knives in a drawer above.

And finally, SWMBA (She Who Must Be Adored) aka "punkin," who finally gets to live in her house. She had just (finally) started walking all by herself, but was still doing it "monster style" because she was used to holding someone's hand(s).

Anyway, I've been reading, learning, and finally contributing at THS for several years leading up to this. So, we're really excited to finally be in the home stretch.

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clipped on: 06.16.2007 at 04:17 pm    last updated on: 06.16.2007 at 04:18 pm

RE: minimize outlets/switches in white subway tile backsplash (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: jgarner53 on 05.29.2007 at 11:30 am in Kitchens Forum

My outlets are horizontal in my backsplash. My GC and electrician did their best to get them to line up in the second row of tile. I wanted them as invisible as possible.

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clipped on: 06.11.2007 at 07:45 pm    last updated on: 06.11.2007 at 07:45 pm

RE: Subway tile border/design questions - ideas please! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: kgwlisa on 06.06.2007 at 06:13 pm in Bathrooms Forum

It all depends on what you consider to be too much. I'm doing a black and white bath and I love borders, so I'm going for something with a little more graphic punch. I'm 90% certain I will be using a 1/2" black liner and a black chair rail separated by a 3" high embossed tile for a look kind of like this:

I also have black porcelain sconces (not that style, the kind with turtle shades) and I'm planning on 1" hex floors with black accents (have not yet decided how those accents will go though). I was considering doing the white cap but it just seemed to lack oomph and when I surveyed friends for their opinion they unanimously preferred black for the chair rail in order to match my bold and sassy personality ;).

I also don't get that black isn't neutral... I can't think of a color I like that doesn't go with it. BUT I can understand wanting to go for a change when renovating your bathroom.

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clipped on: 06.09.2007 at 01:17 am    last updated on: 06.09.2007 at 01:17 am

RE: Subway tile border/design questions - ideas please! (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kgwlisa on 06.05.2007 at 06:36 pm in Bathrooms Forum

If you're not being a slave to period I say why not use glass tile if you want to? Ebony stained floors and vanity is not really "slave to period" in my mind.

I used a combination of glass mosaic and subway tile in my "vintagey enough to not feel out of place in my 120 year old house but not period" kitchen and I took my inspiration from the NYC subways that combined mosaic with subway tiles. Here's a picture taken ca 1910 I think in columbus circle:

and here's my backsplash:

So I think if you want to do a glass mosaic it would look great and not too modern. That said I think you need either some kind of a bullnose or some kind of chair rail cap for the top of your subway tile if you are going to stop it partway up the wall. It doesn't have to be as elaborate as a chair rail but you need some kind of a glazed top edge. As far as I know, the pencil liner strips do not have a glazed top edge (but I don't know what lines you are looking at).

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clipped on: 06.06.2007 at 03:54 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2007 at 03:54 pm

RE: 'period' register covers (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: kec01 on 06.01.2007 at 05:17 am in Old House Forum

We've stripped the paint off our original wall registers and found a pretty neat tiger stripe pattern underneath. We've also purchased wall registers at salvage stores. And we have a new return cover from ReggiorRegister.com.

We've been most happy with stripping the paint off the original registers...and this was the best for our budget.

For your ceiling needs, check out Reggio.

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clipped on: 06.05.2007 at 06:14 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2007 at 06:14 pm

RE: plugmold (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: jamesk on 06.05.2007 at 11:37 am in Kitchens Forum

Plugmold is a brand name. I think it's available in ivory, grey and a brushed aluminum finish. Other brands, however, are available in a wider range of finishes, including white. If your electrician shops for another brand he can probably come up with a substitute in white.

I have the brushed aluminum finish in my kitchen. Because it isn't really visible unless you look up under the cabinets, it works out just fine.

If you want to look at the spec sheets for Plugmold, the link below will take you to them.

Here is a link that might be useful: Plugmold spec sheets

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clipped on: 06.05.2007 at 12:26 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2007 at 12:27 pm

Easyclosets.com - A winner!!

posted by: housebaby on 04.15.2007 at 04:48 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

Hi - I searched this and other forums to see what closet systems people used. I was reluctant to use online and prefab companies -- I didn't really like the quality or aesthetics of California closets.

I saw several posters happy with Easy Closets.com so I tried them. The online tool is amazing -- really easy to use and full of helpful tips. Then, I called and actually got a terrific, knowledgable, helpful, considerate, patient designer to perfect my closets.

The huge Master walk in -- 10' X 9 ' cost about $3800; the odd=shaped coat closet - 3.5' X 10' - cost about $900 (both in stained finish) and the cute, adjustable-shelf kitchen pantry in white was under $400.

If you use them, ask for Luis Perez at extension 171 -- I am not his girlfriend or business manager -- just a satisfied customer.

(Confession: my contractor installed them, not me, so I can't speak to ease but it took him no time...)

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clipped on: 06.05.2007 at 12:56 am    last updated on: 06.05.2007 at 12:57 am

RE: Another question on Pocket Doors! (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: brickeyee on 01.01.2007 at 02:06 pm in Remodeling Forum

"He says you can only use very plain doors so it won't match the rest of the house which is about 100 yrs old. Is this correct?"

Dead wrong. You can use any door you want with pocket hardware. Door thickness is limited if you use the pre-fab jamb systems.
The biggest issue with pocket doors is meeting the outlet spacing rules and installing switches.
If you want a standard thickness wall (about 5.5 inches) you cannot mount any electric boxes in the walls at the pocket.
If you can tolerate a wet wall thickness (about 6.5 inches) you can install electrical boxes but typically would not use the pre-fab door kit. Instead you turn the studs flat (and I bump them up to 2x6 width) and use 4x4 boxes that are 1.25 inches deep with a plaster ring.
The wall is a lot stiffer.
The other problem with the Johnson kits is preventing door swing. The plastic guides they supply tend to scratch the face of the door.
I install a section of aluminum angle in the floor of the pocket and groove the bottom of the door.
If the door has panels or is non-flat you typically need to mount a strip of wood on the pocket side of the door edge to make it wider and keep the decoration centered when the door is closed.

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clipped on: 06.04.2007 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 06.04.2007 at 07:43 pm

RE: 3 Bathtubs (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: mpwdmom on 05.27.2007 at 11:27 pm in Bathrooms Forum

BTW, you can get the Toto for much less if you live in TX or LA area...our price was $525. Link below.
Susan ~

Here is a link that might be useful: Coburn's

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clipped on: 06.01.2007 at 02:02 pm    last updated on: 06.01.2007 at 02:02 pm

Traditional Black/White Bath

posted by: tussymussy on 12.02.2006 at 04:15 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Here's our new bath with subway tiles, and radiant floor heating and frameless glass shower. Lots of thanks to all of you for your ideas.

Here is a link that might be useful: Classic Bath

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clipped on: 05.31.2007 at 06:15 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2007 at 06:15 pm

RE: Bay area kitchen shop recs? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: scrapbookone on 05.25.2007 at 12:58 am in Kitchens Forum

I used Precision Cabinets out of Brentwood. They are a custom cabinet maker but I found that they were actually cheaper then using Kraftmade and modifying them. Believe it or not you really don't need a general contractor. We flipped when we got the quote back from our GC. By doing it ourselves we saved 26K. Yes, we did our own demo work and our own drywall work (only because I couldn't get someone) but I was able to line up the cabinet, plumber, electrician, tile and granite people by myself.

Here is a link that might be useful: Precision Cabinets

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clipped on: 05.25.2007 at 07:41 pm    last updated on: 05.25.2007 at 07:41 pm

RE: My kitchen is finished! (pics) (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: jgarner53 on 05.22.2007 at 11:21 am in Kitchens Forum

Aw, shucks, thanks, everybody!

Here are the details:
Cabinets: custom flush inset by local shop
Paint: cabinets - BM Mayonnaise (also on ceiling & trim)
walls - BM Potpourri Green
Stove: DCS 36" 6-burner all-gas range with low backguard (required by my local code)
Hood: Vent-a-Hood Excalibur, 36" in Biscuit
Fridge: Amana 36" cabinet-depth top-mount
Dishwasher: Bosch Integra SHX57C03UC with custom panel
Sink: Franke fireclay sink, 28 inches
Faucet: Chicago faucet wall-mount in polished nickel
Soap dispenser: Rohl Perrin & Rowe LS850P (with NeverMT)
Airswitch: Franke, in black
Drawer handles/Door knobs: House of Antique Hardware black glass hexagonal knobs & bridge pulls
Countertop: Belvedere soapstone from M. Teixeira in San Francisco
Tile: Subway Ceramics 3x6 subway tile, Daltile black liner & 3/4" round, green liner "dots" from B&W tile in Riverside, CA
Floor: Marmoleum in Butter with Coffee accent strip
Light fixtures: Skidmore pendants and Jefferson ceiling fixture, from Rejuvenation
Undercabinet lights: LEDs from LEDtronics
Outlet covers, pushbutton switches and switchplate: House of Antique Hardware

I added night shots this morning - the kitchen's completely different at night when the lights are on.

I wish I knew how to link you all to the shutterfly album - the pics are in order there! I hate that Photobucket doesn't let you organize your photos except alphabetically. :-P

My favorite things about this kitchen:
higher counters (DH and I are both tall)
plenty of light!
a faucet that doesn't drip!
a hood!
all that counter space!
super susans - 2 of them!
roll outs!

Now how do I get my photos into the FKB?

I have to say that I learned so much here while I was designing this space - about appliances, cool things like NeverMT and soapstone (always knew I didn't want granite). This is such a great resource!

Here is a link that might be useful: Night shots of the kitchen

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clipped on: 05.22.2007 at 03:13 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2007 at 03:13 pm

RE: My kitchen is finished! (pics) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: klb_2000 on 05.21.2007 at 10:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Yay---great to finally see the finished pictures--it all came together wonderfully! Good job! (I'll always think of your kitchen as my kitchen's big sister a little further down the coast!)

Here is a link that works!

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to jgarner's kitchen

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clipped on: 05.22.2007 at 03:10 pm    last updated on: 05.22.2007 at 03:10 pm

RE: Delorean gray grout between white subway tiles? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: natal on 05.21.2007 at 09:07 am in Bathrooms Forum

Jenny, our new bath and laundry room floors were grouted yesterday with Delorean Gray. Maybe another visual will help. I'm considering white subways for my kitchen backsplash, but will probably use a lighter shade of gray. Like Bill said, it's a matter of personal taste. Choose the look you like.

Here is a link that might be useful: new floors

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 09:55 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 09:56 pm

RE: classic/period/retro white hex/subway advice? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: bill_vincent on 05.21.2007 at 09:25 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Rittenhouse would be 100 white. As for the hex, the color name is white (very original! :-) ) As for the hex grout color, if you're looking to have the grey period look, look into the following colors:

Laticrete Silver Shadow or Light Pewter

Hydroment Mobe Pearl

Custom Building Products Platinum

Mapei Warm Bray

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clipped on: 05.21.2007 at 09:46 pm    last updated on: 05.21.2007 at 09:46 pm

White Subway Tile tub/shower remodel

posted by: cassidyhome on 07.30.2005 at 12:22 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We had a leak so we reluctantly tapped into our emergency savings account and started to create something beautiful and functional. The first step was to remove an old tub and tile surround, including old aluminum windows that wouldn't slide any more. We replaced them with vinyl retrofit windows with "Industrex" privacy glass and chose a non-opening window for the shower.

The tub is a Kohler Synchrony K-1195-L with the integrated tiling flange. The fixtures are all from American Standard "The Standard Collection." The toilet was the only thing we saved - it is a Kohler Memoirs Classic elongated.

The wall tile is Daltile Rittenhouse Square in Arctic White with a Portobello White Line Bordura accent piece which measures 1.5" x 8" and is installed 69" from the floor. The window sill is a white-gray marble with a polished finish.

The floor is Cerim "The Wood Collection" porcelain wood-look tile in the color "Ellinton." We chose two of the 3 available sizes - which measure about 20" x 8" and 16" x 6".

The walls and ceiling are painted in Benjamin Moore's Bleeker Beige (really Behr paint purchased at Home Depot). The door is a Simpson Shaker-style 5-panel. The trim was crafted by my husband out of MDF-thanks so much to posters on this forum who inspired the design.

The exhaust fan is a Panasonic WhisperLite FV-07VQL3 and the switches that control it are Leviton 6260M and 5634. The curtain rod is a Myson in a chrome finish and the curtain is a nylon "The Traveler".

Image hosted by Photobucket.com

The photos are in my Photobucket account: http://photobucket.com/albums/v399/MadamX/Bathroom%20remodel/ and the password is Maggie

Enjoy!

Here is a link that might be useful: Password: Maggie

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clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 05.07.2007 at 10:09 pm

RE: White Ceramic Floor tile - Upkeep Nightmare? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: dianalo on 05.04.2007 at 02:58 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Hi kgwlisa,
Almost all the tile stores carry it but the price varies. I am Long Island (NY) and the local place with the best price is Nemo Tile (or Nemo something...) in Hicksville. Another poster in the kitchen forum recommended one in Brooklyn that is also good. It's prices were the same as the one closer to me, so I am buying closer. If you, or anyone else, want me to look up the Brooklyn place, let me know....I can tell you that the prices for 1 inch or 2 inch are cheaper than for 1 3/4. You can buy it with a pattern in it already, but you will pay more. I am copying a pic from restoration.com's customer gallery. I fell in love with it at first sight and have never looked back. I am posting the kitchen so you can see the floor pattern. It may stick out on a bathroom forum, but hopefully, it could inspire someone to use something similar. I will also post a nice bathroom floor with a different pattern
to the hex tiles. If you are doing a vintage style, you can also consider penny rounds for a similar effect, but the hex hit it even more for me.
HTH
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

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clipped on: 05.07.2007 at 12:56 am    last updated on: 05.07.2007 at 01:01 am