"Pricing your artworks." Paraphrasing from an article written by Julia Trops.

1. Art Marketing 101: A brief calculation table from page 74/75 of Art Marketing 101, Constance Smith. "Most working artists will have to be able to complete at least five original works a month. This doesn’t mean you will sell all five pieces each month, but you need to build a stock so your clients have a variety to choose from. If it takes you a month of working eight hours a day to finish one painting, this probably means you will have to get involved in the print market and forget about selling your originals.
1. Calculate the total business expenses for the year (dues, education, utilities, publications, postage etc) to figure the per month overhead.
2. How many pieces do you complete complete in a month on the average?
3. Divide the number of pieces you complete in a month by the monthly overhead.
4. Decide on an hourly rate of pay for yourself.
5. How many hours to complete an average painting?
6. Add a 10% profit margin.
7. Add a 100% commission.
8. Add the frame cost (if applicable). If you do the framing this price would include your labor but no markup, i.e. the same cost as a frame shop.
9. Then add tax and shipping.

2. Market Value pricing: "…go to the marketplace (on and off eBay) and see what other artists with the same type of background are selling their artwork for. Most prices in the art world are related to the price paid for similar work sold in the recent past. When comparing pricing, keep in mind the aesthetic and technical merits of works, the style, medium and reputation of the artist and the intrinsic costs of production. It is generally a mistake to base prices solely on the amount of hours spent creating the work. Don’t undersell your work."

3. "A third way to price artworks is by square inch. This is the method I generally prefer, but I keep in mind market prices as well. Length multiplied by width multiplied by value x, y, or z, depending on total square inches. The final price is the product according to the total square inches of the artwork: under 100 square inches is multiplied by value x, between 100 and 300 square inches if price, and over 300 square inches is price z.

i.e., an 8x10 = 80 square inches multiplied by $3.10/square inch (value x) = $248 (rounded to nearest 50) = $250

As artwork on paper generally gets less per square inch than on canvas or board, and oil gets more than acrylic, a fair pricing system is necessary. Again, this is why I keep in mind Market Values."

hugs, Karen

Here is a link that might be useful: weird gardens blue bottle chandelier

Several asked about the colored 4 x 4 tiles sent out in my tesserae exchange box, so I decided to see if I had kept any information about where I got them at the SAMA conference in Phoenix. And guess what!

They are called "Thin Brites" and they come from Holland. I purchased them from "Mosaic Studio Supply" from Oakland, Ca. Their web site is www.mosaicstudiosupply.com and you can order online.

Hope this helps!

Becky

heres a million pics - I'll do thumbnails so it doesn't take so long to load.

Thank you to all of you for supporting and cheering me along - you're all a huge inspiration! (and don't anyone be fooled - Slow is the master!!!!) LOL

YOU KNOW YOU ARE ADDICTED TO MOSAICS WHEN ........

my reply :

When you drop someone's good dishes and you BEG to clean it up ~~

Next !!!!!!!

I have covered 2 of the three steps now and thinset them down. I'm liking how they turned out so far.

I have learned a lot using the tile saw!!!! Measure 15 times cut once!!! I had a hard time getting the tile fence set up the same in the front as the back the lines on the saw is NOT accurate!

The DH had to show me how to set it all up. By that time I had already cut and thin set the first step, so that one did not turn out as good. Oh well live and learn!!!

my mouth watered and I asked her every bit of detail on how she did that mmmmm they were beautiful! what she said was go buy Laurie Mika's book on Mixed Media Mosaics! (I wasn't in the position to do that at that time but someone here graciously sent it along to me) another wonderful person shared some things that she no longer used and boyoh did it open my world right up!

now I truely love adding stamped tiles to things I make because I can include my thoughts (inane as they maybe! LOL)

There are way better examples of PC tiles by alot of talented artists, but I'll share with ya all how I do it and you'll see how easy it is to get that look.

polymer clay is that premo, sculpy, fimo.. brands that bake in the oven. each has differing temps and times so be sure and look at the package.

I usually just roll out a bigger piece, stamp then trim but because had to fit as a replacement I cut it to size before stamping.

Now its stamped with the correctly spelled word and you can see there is a bottle of black acrylic paint and a baggy of gold mica dust.

now I painted the clay and then wipe it off so that it remains in the grooves of the stamped letters.

then I dip my finger into the mica and rubb it on the tile

now bake in a covered dedicated pan (only for clay) seal it with 2 coats of Future floor polish. Mask with tape before grouting

http://www.acmoore.com/p-32167-easy-to-do-series-stamp-set-alphabet-14.aspx

http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/claystamps.html

http://www.polyclayplay.com/Products/PolyPresses/ProdStoneStamps.htm
:(sorry could only figure out how to post one site!):

I am a Polymer clay artist who is hopefully going to get to do real mosaics soon I have my supplies just need the time & work area to get me going!! I am a member of the poly clay club which is a fun club that does polymer clay challenges, letters of love for sick children, artist trading cards, & monthly projects. They have free projects on their site!! But this month I'm excited about the challenge because it involves polymer clay mosaics.
Mosaics are Definitely something I've always wanted to do but did not have the time but my children & getting bigger now so if there are any tips on getting started with real mosaics? Besides keeping my fingers because I'm accident prone!!!:) please tell me!!
Abby

Here is a link that might be useful: This is the challenge any Ideas for doing mosaic would help! I want to win!!! Thanks

This was the setup:

Fresh GEII:

Fresh Weldbond:

Fresh MAC:

Here is a link that might be useful: NT's albums

hope this helps
Gardenrose

First, arrange everything you need AHEAD OF TIME! I learned the first time around that not having something when you have epoxy ready to go is NOT GOOD!

What you need: Your project
--two-part epoxy (resin and hardener)
--measuring cup (I used a tablespoon for small amount)
--container to mix in (straight sided)
--something to mix with (needs a straight side to scrape container sides, I use a plastic picnic knife for small amount)
--a piece of stiff cardboard or a throwaway paintbrush (I have a craft paintbrush that is getting stiffer and stiffer, but I keep using it)
--rubbing alcohol (the only thing that will clean up wet epoxy)
--a rag for wiping your hands, etc (to wet with ALCOHOL, not water)
--something to time for two minutes (watch or clock with second hand, kitchen timer, etc. Not in pic, I used clock on wall)

Measure EQUAL AMOUNTS of resin and hardener into your mixing container, (I quickly wiped out my measuring spoon with alcohol-rag), and begin stirring. Time stirring for TWO MINUTES.

Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of container frequently. Use kind of a whipping action, like hand-whipping egg whites. Mixture will get frothy and even have little bubbles float into the air.

POUR mixture onto your project. You can pour it all in the middle on a small project, pour it all around on a larger one. You can see all the bubbles in this pic:

To be continued...
(I just don't want to accidentally delete this whole thing before I post it! So I'll do it in a few parts.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Fish Tower!!!

Annie: I haven't sold a thing I've made - I think I have low self esteem in that area and haven't really tried. Really don't know how to sell anything. The beads I string then glue down. When grouting, the grout really doesn't go between them, it cleans off fine. I wanted the beads to be the web instead of grout. Just wish I had some pearly type beads to make it look like a web glistening with dew.

Fiddlekate: I am going to try removing a spider I have on a pinky ring if I can cut the metal. I've had that ring for over 30 years - You never know when something will be used.

I let the concrete "cure" before I mosaic the item. There are differing opinions on this, and some people are mosaicing the next day, but I've been following the rule of wet curing for a couple of days (keep spritzing with water to keep item damp, and cover with plastic) and then I let it cure for at least a couple of weeks. All the books I've read say wait about 28 days (I try to wait that long, but sometimes it's a little shorter)....but like I said, I've heard differing opinions on this lately. If you're new to creating concrete structures, I highly recommend a book by Sherry Warner Hunter.

I use cement based adhesive (also called thinset) and the brand I use is Mapei - it's the MAPEI - Ultraflex 2 - Professional Grade Polymer Modified Mortar. It's good for both indoors and outdoors.

I use several different brands of grout - love the MAPEI - Keracolor-S (they have the best BLACK that I've found) have also used Custom Building Products - Polyblend, and recently used Tec AccuColor (scored some bags at a thrift store). I've had good experiences with all 3 of these brands. I definitely prefer SANDED grout over unsanded. And would NOT recommend pre-mixed grout. Also, when you mix up your grout - it's easier and less messy if you mix it a little on the dry side - like a thick peanut butter consistency....and I don't use a damp sponge for cleanup - I use soft cloths (strips from t-shirts work well)to wipe off the excess and clean up the tiles. On working with something the size of the bigger mushroom, by the time I finish putting on the last of the grout, the first part I applied was ready to be wiped down with the cloths. Since joining the other forum, I discovered that several people over there are using this same method...all with good results.

Hope this helps. AND....since you're new to mosaics, also come on over to the Stained Glass and Mosaics Forum...look through the FAQs there......there's a wealth of knowledge contained there, and it's like this forum, everyone is so nice and friendly and helpful. You'll be able to get answers to all your mosaic questions there - no sense in trial and error....when you can ask the questions ahead of time! Welcome to the world of mosaics - it's addicting!!

lyndalu

I made my mushrooms with a concrete mix over various objects…I used a recipe from a book by Sherri Warner Hunter – it’s her Basic Sand Mix, which is 1 part Portland cement, 3 parts sand and approximately 1 part water. I’m still very much a beginner at making concrete structures, but I’ve got both of Sherri Warner Hunter’s books, and they have been very helpful to me.

On the 4 that look kind of like "button" mushrooms - I put the mix over a regular sized light bulb (light bulb covered in plastic wrap).

On the more elongated ones, I used a 6 oz yogurt container – and put the mix over it, putting enough mix on the "top" (which of course is the bottom of the container), so that the top is more rounded, rather than flat. Oh, and I didn’t try to "unmold" it…the plastic container is still in there.

For the stems on those 2 types, I took a piece of Styrofoam, and whittled it into the desired shape, stuck a long nail into the bottom, and then covered it with the mix. After a couple of days curing time for the cap and stem, I attached the stems to the caps by inserting the stem into the cap and pushing the mix all around it. After the concrete had fully cured, I painted the stems.

The taller lavender one was made over a glass bowl (covered in plastic wrap), with the mix over it.

The stem on the lavender one is a bud vase with the concrete mix over it. And the cap just sits on top of the bud vase – it’s not attached.

And here's another type I'm working on. As a base, I used this metal thing - it's something from some type of light fixture. Thought the result might look a little like a portobello mushroom.

For those who have a sewing background, this w/be a little easier. I used to sew all my clothes, so I related the proceedure to making a pattern to cut a dress. All her structures are a double layer of the mesh, so do everything in twos. The wire mesh is the galvanized lathe - diamond-shaped stuff used to plaster walls. To make a life-sized person, Riana begins by sorta measuring her face, cuts a piece of the mesh and begins to shape the face by folding the chin area into sorta a v-shape, cutting darts where she needed to fold and overlap for stitches, etc. To shape the forehead she cut a piece to size, leaving enough to bend and lay across to shape the forehead enough wings to attach it to the face, w/stitches made from 19 guage wire. She cuts a piece about 6/8" then turns in about an inch w/the pliers, pinches the folded end to make a "hook needle" that she pushes through the layers, to catch the pieces and then she can pull it through to wind around a couple times w/the pliers then cuts the ends off w/the cutting part of the pliers as close as possible w/o cutting the "knot". Use as many stitches as necessary to hold the piece to shape. W/each additional piece of mesh to shape the ears, nose, leave "wings" for attaching it to the base of the face. Sculpturing the face/head she then goes on to the shoulders by just bending a piece into an arched piece the length from shoulder to shoulder so the head w/be able to sit in the middle by cutting, shaping, darting so it sits properly. Remember - double layers of everything. The neck w/be a short tube you w/cut around bottom/top for the wings to attach to the head, then cut and darted to fit the shoulders once the head is attached. She goes through the whole process of sculpturing the whole body, darting, patching, pinching, folding, punching to shape, etc. The recipe for the mud mixture to be gently pushed in between the two pieces of mesh layer and smoothes over the mesh (not to completely cover) is: 1 part Portland cement to three parts of mason sand. She was using local stuff so the sand was course, and b/c the metal mesh wasn't available there, she used hardware "cloth" metal mesh - ungalvanized - 1/4" holes. After pushing through and smoothing out the structure, she covers w/plastic to dry over night. There were spots of the mesh not completely covered w/the concrete, and that was ok. It is a just a very thin layer on the outside, thereby making the statue light enough to move around easily. Next day, in most cases, it is ready to be refined or smoothed out the rough edges, especially trimming the "stitches", bumps knocked off, it is ready to be mosaiced. She doesn't cover all parts in mosaics. As shown in ROSIE's photo of the statue she made of our hostess Sam, bird and dog, she uses different colored grouts and exterior house paints to finish her pieces. She uses powdered colorants, and paints when she can't find grout in colors she wishes to use. On the arms and legs, she showed us how to use a runny mixture of grout to smooth over the skeleton to cover the mesh and concrete that won't be covered by mosaics. She makes her own grout w/one part type 1 Portland cement w/one-two parts silica sand or you can buy a regular sanded grout. For mosaicing she uses cement-based polymer fortified tile adhesive for adhering. The local stuff wasn't great, and when an occasional piece fell off, she used Weldbond to put it back on. The climate there is mild, so ...... She didn't even know what a pistol-grip glass scoring tool was. Her only tools are a hammer, a tile nipper, the tile cutter w/the little wheel to score and a trowel for mixing the cement/sand mixture - VERY BASIC TOOLS. Ask away, if this isn't clear.