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Blue Heron attack!

posted by: dave0829 on 05.13.2008 at 02:18 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Just had a heron attack yesterday,it showed up 4 different times, and then twice more this morning. I really don't want to put up a netting or fishing line or anything...I heard about floating a fake alligator in the water, anyone know the results of this?
For the time being, I have a radio out there right now, seeing how that will work, but that is only temporary of course.


clipped on: 07.10.2010 at 10:13 am    last updated on: 07.10.2010 at 10:13 am

RE: Can't clear up pond water, have tried everything! (Follow-Up #24)

posted by: koilady on 05.17.2008 at 10:17 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I've been there too. As a matter of fact, our 10,000 gallon pond was so green that we didn't see our fish for ten years. Then, we learned about filtration and in building the system we have now, our ponds are always clear. If anyone wants a diagram of this filtering system, let me know and I will send you one. I also promise you that if you built it properly and make it large enough not so much for the size of the pond but for the amount of fish you have, you will never again have a green pond or suffer from hair algae.
Do it the natural way with filtration. No more barley straw, u.v. lights and/or chemicals. You won't believe how well this filtering system works until you make it.

Yours Koily, Lorraine


clipped on: 07.09.2010 at 10:09 am    last updated on: 07.09.2010 at 05:10 pm

Craigslist is AMAZING!!

posted by: mybusyfamily6 on 06.14.2010 at 08:57 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I am always looking for koi on Craigslist and they always want more than I can afford, but it doesn't stop me from inquiring...
Last night there was a posting for koi (make offer) so I ask if he has any in the $20 range.. he says no but he will take 25 for anyone I want... SOOO... I go to his house and he has 17 weenie dogs with fins.. lol.. they are monster fish, 8-20 inches long, you know the kind that you pay several hundred dollars for in the store.. They are all fat and healthy and friendly.. My biggest fish might be 6 inches long and I paid 65 for him a few weeks ago.. He is just a baby compared to these. I bought them all and they ended up costing me 17.65 a fish..
The sad part is my husband and I have been working on enlarging our pond its 8/10 of the way done so hopefully by tomorrow then a couple of days for the water to sit... And I can go get them...
Help.. how do I aclimate them to new pond water?? we will be bundling them into big totes to take them to our house and their water had a ton of algea (pea soup) so I don't want to mix it with mine. What do I do?
P.S. I am only going to keep 5-6, my friend wants some and the rest that we dont want we sell.


clipped on: 07.05.2010 at 01:14 pm    last updated on: 07.05.2010 at 01:14 pm

150 gall rubbermaid stock tank

posted by: louie_gardner on 05.22.2010 at 12:00 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

I am interested in the 150 gallon rubbermaid stock tank .
I like the dimensions of Height=25 in
Length=58 in
Width=39 in

However I know the bottom of the tank is not as wide and wanted to ask if anyone here has used it ,would you happen to know the actual bottom dimensions?.

Its for a pair of Jack Dempseys which are kept in patio 9 months a yr so 150 gallon is fine but if good size difference between bottom of tank and top might just go with another brand name which offers more sizes.

They do not carry it in area but they will order it .



clipped on: 07.05.2010 at 10:38 am    last updated on: 07.05.2010 at 10:38 am

Skippy re-design?

posted by: cweathersby on 06.04.2010 at 10:41 am in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Y'all tell me what you think about my idea-

I've got a big pond with lots of brown water. No amount of water changes are getting it clear (that's what I get for 4 years of neglect..)

Due to some problems encountered with the DIY mechanical filter construction years ago, the only filter I have is a 300 gallon Skippy. I have the pump pushing water to a vortex at the bottom, filter media above it, and a 4" pipe outlet from the front face at the top which leads to the waterfall.

My skippy is basically acting as my mechanical filter as well as biological, so it needs cleaning to get the crud out- not scrubbing clean, just draining and pushing the big stuff out. I have a drain on the front of the skippy- same side as the waterfall outlet- that goes as one of my inlets to the pump so the water can be pumped out.

My question about a redesign is:
I would like to change the vortex design for the water entering the skippy.
I think that if I plumbed it to where the water was pushed from the back bottom of the skippy to the front bottom of the skippy where the drain is that I would be able to remove more crud and send it to my flowers. The water pushed in from this angle on the skippy would still have to go up, through the media, and out the front of the skippy so I hope the biological filtration would continue to work.

What do you think? Any drawbacks that I'm not thinking of?
I usually find out AFTER finishing the project how stupid I am for forgetting a very critical part of the design.



clipped on: 07.05.2010 at 10:34 am    last updated on: 07.05.2010 at 10:35 am

How to make a lighted frog island

posted by: koijoyii on 06.19.2010 at 11:21 pm in Ponds & Aquatic Plants Forum

Thought I would share how I made a simple floating frog island with a solar light. The light attracts bugs at night for the frogs to catch and eat.

I used:

1 12" green styrofoam round from Pat Catans $3.17
1 small green half sphere $1.07
1 solar path light at Marc's $1.98
Keeping my frogs happy and fat: priceless


Remove the stake from the solar light and discard.


This will give you access to the hollow tube.


Center the small green half sphere in the middle of the 12" circle. Then take the solar path light and push it through the middle of both the small sphere and the 12" circle.


Here is what the finished product will look like.


This is how it looks once you put it in the pond.


Here it is at night.




clipped on: 06.29.2010 at 06:34 pm    last updated on: 06.29.2010 at 06:35 pm

RE: What to do with a LARGE mirror (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: texann on 05.30.2010 at 09:11 am in Garden Junk Forum

Do you have a wooden fence or wall? If so, mount the mirror flat against the fence. It will enlarge your yard and give you the feel of having a window or door way into another space or garden. I have had one for years and just got 3 more mirror from the recycling barn at the dump (they pull things out of the trash and resell cheap) to mount along our side fence. I visited a small yard that had mirrors solid along one side fence and it made the yard feel twice as big. The lady had added tube lights along top and bottom of mirrors and it was beautiful at night when she entertained. The main thing is to make sure your mirrors are in shady location where the sun does not hit them much as it can start a fire if reflected on mulch or dry leaves. A leaning mirror would avoid this but you don't get same effect as a mirror flat against a wall or fence. I love my mirrors and know you will too.


clipped on: 06.06.2010 at 05:27 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2010 at 05:27 pm

RE: A NH Garden Junker with a show (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: spedigrees on 06.04.2010 at 08:50 am in Garden Junk Forum

Just wondering if you other New England ladies are (still) planning to attend this show. I wish it were closer, but Concord is about a two hour drive for me, and also this weekend is pretty much filled up for me. It would be fun sometime for us New England garden junkers to get together, esp since there are so few of us!

I love this woman's chicken sculpture and would be sorely tempted to buy one, but it appears that this is a singular piece and the rest of her stuff is glass.


clipped on: 06.06.2010 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 06.06.2010 at 05:22 pm

joy dish soap and slugs?

posted by: flowergirl_2010 on 03.20.2010 at 11:56 am in Hosta Forum

I'm new to this forum, and have a question. Someone I met has gorgeous hosta,healthy and no slug damage. She said she mixes Joy dish soap in water and uses it on the hosta leaves,and that it prevents slugs from wanting to chew on them! Ever heard of this? If so what's the ratio of soap to water? Thanks!


clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 03:35 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 03:35 pm

Moving a large fully leafed out Hosta -- lots o pix

posted by: ken_adrian on 06.05.2007 at 02:15 pm in Hosta Forum

well .. time for this one again .... i am sure you wont mind ... since i renamed my files.. i had to start a new post ... enjoy ....

you will need a rope .. like clothes line ... masking tape ... shovel ... pruning shears .... a strong back ... hose and water ...
water the hosta well in advance so it is in prime shape for moving ....

here is marion bachman before we start

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take the clothes line ... and get it under the hosta .. and draw it tight about halfway up the petioles .. leaf stems ... draw it as tight as you can without breaking too many leaves ....
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then take the masking tape and tape the petioles above or below the rope .... do not have fear ...

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go dig the hole in the new place ....
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

proceed to dig at least half way out from where the edge of the canopy was ... with the caveat that you have to be able to lift the darn thing after its out ...

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket
Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

dig/cut a circle around the whole hosta .... and then 'pop' it out ... hoping there arent any tree roots to frustrate the procedure ... i never go more than one shovel depth ... which means you will be real close on the proper depth of the new hole ...
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once loose ... lift and drop the plant twice, to remove any excess soil that might fall off ... you can use the bound leaves to grab the plant to move it around .... apparently sand falls off rather easily ...

drag the plant to the new hole and throw it in .... water it well and backfill and water again ...

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remove the rope, but leave the tape there ... it will hold the leaves up until the roots start pumping water ... the process causes a loss of turgidity ... loss of water pressure to hold up the leaves .... in a week or two the tape will loosen itself, and you can remove it then ....

keep watering well ....

the tape will fall of in a week or 2 depending on heat and rain ... or you can remove it after you are sure the leaves will not flop ......

prune off any broken leaves ... after the tape falls off ...

water, water, water .... and she will look just like she did before the move.. weird but i cant find a picture of it settled in afterwards .... you will just have to take my word for it ....

bottom line .. they are hosta .. have no fear ... just teach them who is in charge .. and you will have a wonderful garden ...

good luck


clipped on: 03.31.2010 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 03.31.2010 at 03:32 pm

Pricing your artwork

posted by: silvamae on 09.28.2009 at 10:38 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

After reading chinatreasures post, I hunted up this old article that I read some years back and found helpful. It's about pricing paintings, but I still found that it helped me price mosaic works; just have to tweak it a bit. It might help somewhat when pricing your work for shows.

"Pricing your artworks." Paraphrasing from an article written by Julia Trops.

1. Art Marketing 101: A brief calculation table from page 74/75 of Art Marketing 101, Constance Smith. "Most working artists will have to be able to complete at least five original works a month. This doesnt mean you will sell all five pieces each month, but you need to build a stock so your clients have a variety to choose from. If it takes you a month of working eight hours a day to finish one painting, this probably means you will have to get involved in the print market and forget about selling your originals.
1. Calculate the total business expenses for the year (dues, education, utilities, publications, postage etc) to figure the per month overhead.
2. How many pieces do you complete complete in a month on the average?
3. Divide the number of pieces you complete in a month by the monthly overhead.
4. Decide on an hourly rate of pay for yourself.
5. How many hours to complete an average painting?
6. Add a 10% profit margin.
7. Add a 100% commission.
8. Add the frame cost (if applicable). If you do the framing this price would include your labor but no markup, i.e. the same cost as a frame shop.
9. Then add tax and shipping.

2. Market Value pricing: "go to the marketplace (on and off eBay) and see what other artists with the same type of background are selling their artwork for. Most prices in the art world are related to the price paid for similar work sold in the recent past. When comparing pricing, keep in mind the aesthetic and technical merits of works, the style, medium and reputation of the artist and the intrinsic costs of production. It is generally a mistake to base prices solely on the amount of hours spent creating the work. Dont undersell your work."

3. "A third way to price artworks is by square inch. This is the method I generally prefer, but I keep in mind market prices as well. Length multiplied by width multiplied by value x, y, or z, depending on total square inches. The final price is the product according to the total square inches of the artwork: under 100 square inches is multiplied by value x, between 100 and 300 square inches if price, and over 300 square inches is price z.

i.e., an 8x10 = 80 square inches multiplied by $3.10/square inch (value x) = $248 (rounded to nearest 50) = $250

As artwork on paper generally gets less per square inch than on canvas or board, and oil gets more than acrylic, a fair pricing system is necessary. Again, this is why I keep in mind Market Values."


clipped on: 09.29.2009 at 03:49 pm    last updated on: 09.29.2009 at 03:49 pm

RE: concrete ball (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jeannespines on 08.31.2009 at 11:47 pm in Garden Junk Forum

My DH made this one a few yrs. ago ... he used an old basketball, concrete & a copper pipe down the middle so it could be a "fountain ball." (you can see the bball lines on it!) He had a 5 gal bucket with sand that he used for support while pouring it & drying. It's really cool! We buried a rubber feed tub in the ground, put an old grill grate on top & covered with rocks...small pump is in the feed tub. Good luck with your project! Jeanne S.



clipped on: 09.01.2009 at 07:26 pm    last updated on: 09.01.2009 at 07:27 pm

colorful brick path

posted by: purplemoon on 06.10.2009 at 02:23 am in Garden Junk Forum

I found this picture while 'browsing' during another sleepless night, LOL. How cool is this!
Sidewalk CHALK was used. (no info, but I would presume it was sealed to stay this way.)

hugs, Karen


clipped on: 06.12.2009 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 06.12.2009 at 10:12 am

RE: colorful brick path (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: susiewantsroses on 06.10.2009 at 10:35 am in Garden Junk Forum

They make concrete stains but they are mostly earth tones not vivid colors. If you wanted to paint your bricks you can paint on the top portion that would show, thus not locking in much moisture. The porous stone will suck up enough color to last for years. Ms Linda Sewandsew paints flower pots. I used exterior latex to paint some terra cotta pots too. We have all seen brick buildings that have been painted white many years ago and they do get chippy with weather and age (chippy is cool in a garden). If I were going to do this (wish I did have room for one), I would get the little bottles of exterior craft paints and paint my brick face and then spray some concrete sealer on the path. THIS INDEED CAN BE DONE!!!! It will be whimsical and it will delight all of your family and guests everytime they walk it. I have to admit that I think I would skip or hop on a fun-filled path like that. It is pure stained glass magic. The person who spent a ton of time using chaulk has a "temporary colored" path for sure. lol But what a great idea to use paint to add some Pop color in your garden.


clipped on: 06.12.2009 at 10:12 am    last updated on: 06.12.2009 at 10:12 am

How to make a bottle chandelier?

posted by: kelly_oh on 09.06.2008 at 09:59 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Hi all,
I was following links and found myself on weird gardens. This lady is amazing! I was clicking through her garden pictures and she has this gorgeous blue bottle chandelier.
I was wondering if anyone knows how to make one or if we could just bounce ideas around. Ya'll are great at that! What I'm wondering, is if the bottles have holes drilled in the bottoms? how would you wire these together, if not?

Here is a link that might be useful: weird gardens blue bottle chandelier


clipped on: 09.10.2008 at 11:31 am    last updated on: 09.10.2008 at 11:31 am

Thin Brites

posted by: becky_ia on 09.03.2008 at 11:26 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Hello again,

Several asked about the colored 4 x 4 tiles sent out in my tesserae exchange box, so I decided to see if I had kept any information about where I got them at the SAMA conference in Phoenix. And guess what!

They are called "Thin Brites" and they come from Holland. I purchased them from "Mosaic Studio Supply" from Oakland, Ca. Their web site is and you can order online.

Hope this helps!


Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


clipped on: 09.03.2008 at 11:50 am    last updated on: 09.03.2008 at 11:50 am

RE: mirror WIP (Follow-Up #56)

posted by: nicethyme on 07.12.2008 at 09:08 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

and what a finale it was... I just got back from dropping it off. I think you gals are right, this is/was my best work - I am very proud to have made that. So here's to hoping Hey Diddle does very well at auction in Nov.

heres a million pics - I'll do thumbnails so it doesn't take so long to load.

Thank you to all of you for supporting and cheering me along - you're all a huge inspiration! (and don't anyone be fooled - Slow is the master!!!!) LOL


clipped on: 07.20.2008 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 07.20.2008 at 10:42 pm

Can You Help Me With My Game ?

posted by: toomuchglass on 02.18.2007 at 07:46 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

It's not exactly a game ... but I'd like everybody's input ........ I want to print this out at the end and hang it in my craft room . Finish this sentence ....


my reply :

When you drop someone's good dishes and you BEG to clean it up ~~

Next !!!!!!!


clipped on: 07.19.2008 at 12:59 pm    last updated on: 07.19.2008 at 12:59 pm

slate mosaic steps wip

posted by: chickeemama on 09.17.2007 at 02:13 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here are updated pics on my steps dh made for me.

I have covered 2 of the three steps now and thinset them down. I'm liking how they turned out so far.

I have learned a lot using the tile saw!!!! Measure 15 times cut once!!! I had a hard time getting the tile fence set up the same in the front as the back the lines on the saw is NOT accurate!

The DH had to show me how to set it all up. By that time I had already cut and thin set the first step, so that one did not turn out as good. Oh well live and learn!!!

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Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 07.12.2008 at 10:32 pm    last updated on: 07.12.2008 at 10:32 pm

polymer clay tiles for mosaics

posted by: nicethyme on 05.27.2008 at 06:01 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

seems like eons ago a GW regular Haziemoon showed her AMAZING celtic stamped PC tiles mmmmmmmmmmmmm

my mouth watered and I asked her every bit of detail on how she did that mmmmm they were beautiful! what she said was go buy Laurie Mika's book on Mixed Media Mosaics! (I wasn't in the position to do that at that time but someone here graciously sent it along to me) another wonderful person shared some things that she no longer used and boyoh did it open my world right up!

now I truely love adding stamped tiles to things I make because I can include my thoughts (inane as they maybe! LOL)

There are way better examples of PC tiles by alot of talented artists, but I'll share with ya all how I do it and you'll see how easy it is to get that look.

polymer clay is that premo, sculpy, fimo.. brands that bake in the oven. each has differing temps and times so be sure and look at the package.

I usually just roll out a bigger piece, stamp then trim but because had to fit as a replacement I cut it to size before stamping.

Now its stamped with the correctly spelled word and you can see there is a bottle of black acrylic paint and a baggy of gold mica dust.

now I painted the clay and then wipe it off so that it remains in the grooves of the stamped letters.



then I dip my finger into the mica and rubb it on the tile


now bake in a covered dedicated pan (only for clay) seal it with 2 coats of Future floor polish. Mask with tape before grouting


clipped on: 05.28.2008 at 07:50 am    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:32 pm

RE: polymer clay tiles for mosaics (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: abbyleeb on 07.02.2008 at 02:40 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

if you are looking for stamps you could use the alphabet stamps that go with wood burners or just by looking in the scrapbook section of your local craft store they are use to emboss metal or paper, and there is also leather stamps they could serve the same purpose , stone stamps, & do not forget you can make your own stamps out off polymer clay. these Ideas are what I use as you can tell I must have a messy craft area!!!!! I use a 50% coupon to buy my polymer clay supplies so you could always get you pasta machine cheaper sign up for the michaels online newsletters & coupons. also here are some websites I go to to buy things
:(sorry could only figure out how to post one site!):

I am a Polymer clay artist who is hopefully going to get to do real mosaics soon I have my supplies just need the time & work area to get me going!! I am a member of the poly clay club which is a fun club that does polymer clay challenges, letters of love for sick children, artist trading cards, & monthly projects. They have free projects on their site!! But this month I'm excited about the challenge because it involves polymer clay mosaics.
Mosaics are Definitely something I've always wanted to do but did not have the time but my children & getting bigger now so if there are any tips on getting started with real mosaics? Besides keeping my fingers because I'm accident prone!!!:) please tell me!!

Here is a link that might be useful: This is the challenge any Ideas for doing mosaic would help! I want to win!!! Thanks


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 10:30 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:31 pm

RE: polymer clay tiles for mosaics (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: deborahmc52 on 06.09.2008 at 09:30 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

aw slow, how sad!..maybe because it was upright and not flat? maybe I'll try the same idea but with the self-drying clay, gray or terra? I really want to put some words in the birdbath, even if the birds can't read
"In the stream, where you least expect it, there will be fish.."..good one for me anyway.. and the picture looks like mosaic, great colors. I have some glass and tiles, and broken plates too. But need to finish the bowling ball and planters! I found a lg teal tile to FInally finish the slab off the garage..why do I have to work when I have so many other fun things to do!!?? :>P oh well..


clipped on: 07.02.2008 at 10:29 pm    last updated on: 07.02.2008 at 10:29 pm

GOG Glue Test far

posted by: linlee on 08.26.2007 at 10:51 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Okay then, I made a GOG test using GEII, Weldbond & MacGlue.
The test was started last Thursday and it's been raining
ever needless to say a tad bit humid.

This was the setup:
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Fresh GEII:
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Fresh Weldbond:
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Fresh MAC:
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clipped on: 05.31.2008 at 04:25 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2008 at 04:25 pm

albums? post your link here so we can have an oggle thread

posted by: nicethyme on 05.27.2008 at 11:25 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

my projects are all in seperate sub albums, they include wip shots but unfortunately not in any real order. POST UP everybody!

Here is a link that might be useful: NT's albums


clipped on: 05.31.2008 at 04:16 pm    last updated on: 05.31.2008 at 04:16 pm

RE: Stepping stones again (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gardenrose on 09.19.2004 at 11:38 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

hi Josie_2 - I love making stained glass garden stones - have been for 5 yrs - in answer to your questions:
- for any round molds I use "serving trays" (the ones that are found with plastics glasses for the patio/deck/poolside) they are just the perfect depth & usually there are no indentations in the tray. A plastic pan will work. you can use anything for a mold as long as it's not aluminum (concrete will stick) Rubbermade has some great molds in all different shapes & sizes & don't forget "dollar" stores - a cheap place to find stuff
- the contact paper will not pull out the glass but just be careful of which brand of paper you use - DON'T use "Con-Tact" brand- they've changed their adhesive so it turns out gummy & sticks to the concrete. Try local craft stores for their products
- I use "King PSI 6000" but any concrete will work for this type of craft.
Just something I learned from making some great to not-so-great stones - if you are not happy with the end result - instead of throwing your work away (or hiding it) get a flat head screwdriver & a hammer (no - you are not going to smash the heck out of it though I was tempted a couple of times) & carefully "score" around each piece of glass until you can pop it out. This way you can try again without having to start from the beginning - but you have to do this within the first 24 hrs before the concrete starts to cure.

hope this helps


clipped on: 05.30.2008 at 07:14 am    last updated on: 05.30.2008 at 07:15 am

pathway finally done

posted by: DAVISSUE_zone9 on 03.23.2005 at 12:56 am in Garden Accoutrements Forum

Last year I posted pictures of the leaves I'd made in anticipation of making a pathway. I promised then I'd post a picture of the finished path. Finally last month I got those leaves in the ground. Here's how it turned out. The leaves were made using the formula provided in the faq section- white portland cement, white sand, buff liquid coloring. I used several species of leaves to make the steppingstones.


clipped on: 05.30.2008 at 07:11 am    last updated on: 05.30.2008 at 07:11 am


posted by: siriusmosaics on 02.05.2008 at 06:05 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Kinda weird I know but this is something I found on the internet. Scientists gave spiders different drugs to see what type of web they would make. I picked "Chloral Hydrate" because of the web pattern. Trying to go with what colors you would see in the background outside. I painted the wood because some of the glass is sort of transparent.



clipped on: 05.30.2008 at 06:56 am    last updated on: 05.30.2008 at 06:57 am

Epoxy Tutorial with lots of PICS :)

posted by: ladyronnie on 06.27.2007 at 09:23 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

I am making a new thread for this since the previous one got stale waiting for me to get this done! I did this on a very small project, a little 3" square coaster, mainly in the interest of the time I had to glue the tessarae. You would follow the same steps on a larger project. One thing that is very important, is that your project needs to sit LEVEL! And the bigger the project, the more important it is. So, that said, Here Goes:

First, arrange everything you need AHEAD OF TIME! I learned the first time around that not having something when you have epoxy ready to go is NOT GOOD!
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What you need: Your project
--two-part epoxy (resin and hardener)
--measuring cup (I used a tablespoon for small amount)
--container to mix in (straight sided)
--something to mix with (needs a straight side to scrape container sides, I use a plastic picnic knife for small amount)
--a piece of stiff cardboard or a throwaway paintbrush (I have a craft paintbrush that is getting stiffer and stiffer, but I keep using it)
--rubbing alcohol (the only thing that will clean up wet epoxy)
--a rag for wiping your hands, etc (to wet with ALCOHOL, not water)
--something to time for two minutes (watch or clock with second hand, kitchen timer, etc. Not in pic, I used clock on wall)

Measure EQUAL AMOUNTS of resin and hardener into your mixing container, (I quickly wiped out my measuring spoon with alcohol-rag), and begin stirring. Time stirring for TWO MINUTES.
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Be sure to scrape sides and bottom of container frequently. Use kind of a whipping action, like hand-whipping egg whites. Mixture will get frothy and even have little bubbles float into the air.

POUR mixture onto your project. You can pour it all in the middle on a small project, pour it all around on a larger one. You can see all the bubbles in this pic:
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To be continued...
(I just don't want to accidentally delete this whole thing before I post it! So I'll do it in a few parts.)


clipped on: 05.28.2008 at 07:43 am    last updated on: 05.28.2008 at 07:44 am

Fish Tower!!!

posted by: calamity_j on 05.21.2008 at 10:06 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Klinger came over today and I suprised her with my fish tower!!! It's a big galvanized tub/pond with a few plants and I bought 3 new fish(Fish&Chips&Coleslaw!)lol! and this 1 gallon jar...They love it!!ha! It's just the coolest thing!!! I don't know why they like this but they sure do...I could watch this for hrs!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Fish Tower!!!


clipped on: 05.28.2008 at 07:32 am    last updated on: 05.28.2008 at 07:33 am

Web Done and Grouted (Follow-Up #35)

posted by: siriusmosaics on 02.11.2008 at 02:08 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thank you everyone. I got a bunch of scrap Oceana and thought with some of it being transparent it would be good on this piece. Just wish I would have done it on glass now, so the colors would show better. I haven't decided if I am going to place a spider on this or not. Since I really detest spiders, I'll probably put this on Etsy or Ebay and see if someone would like to buy it.



clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 02:32 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 02:32 pm

Web Ready to Grout (Follow-Up #22)

posted by: siriusmosaics on 02.10.2008 at 06:52 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

After a long week of trying to complete this project, I am finally ready to grout. I was really distracted this week, so I just kind of whipped it together to get it done. Here is the pregrout picture, Monday is grout day and will post the final.



clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 02:31 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 02:31 pm

RE: Web WIP (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: siriusmosaics on 02.06.2008 at 08:56 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Thanks everyone - I wasn't too sure about showing this one - I thought it might be too strange for people.

Annie: I haven't sold a thing I've made - I think I have low self esteem in that area and haven't really tried. Really don't know how to sell anything. The beads I string then glue down. When grouting, the grout really doesn't go between them, it cleans off fine. I wanted the beads to be the web instead of grout. Just wish I had some pearly type beads to make it look like a web glistening with dew.

Fiddlekate: I am going to try removing a spider I have on a pinky ring if I can cut the metal. I've had that ring for over 30 years - You never know when something will be used.


clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 02:28 pm

RE: I found some cool plates!!! (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: crackpotannie on 05.18.2008 at 07:52 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Here is step by step of how I do it,I've used plates with neat things on them too,like figurines,frogs all sort's of things,once sold 500 of them in 3 day's at an art show.There are easier way's to make them but I have found these last for years in your yard.I buy a tube of waterproof epoxy at ace hardware,the kind with 2 tubes made together,squirt some out on a paper plate and mix up really good,I use enough that it oozes out then just wipe off with paper towel.I use a screww type washer ,and a large washer that it fits right in the hole ,I glue those on,then I glue the smaller washer on top of them to keep it all level.First we bought threded pipe the size that would screw in the screw washer,cut them the length we wanted and then bought copper pipe to fit over that pipe leaving enough at the top to screw on,we made it a couple of inch's longer and hammered it closed at the bottom which would stick in the dirt better.The copper gives it a nice look.Hope I'm clear if not let me know,I some just drill a hole in the cup and saucer and screw into wood,I had seen one made the way I made it and it lasted so long I stuck with this,after a couple of years if they fall off I just reglue.....This ones been in the yard 3 yrs.

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting


clipped on: 05.19.2008 at 09:12 am    last updated on: 05.19.2008 at 09:12 am

Old window greenhouse

posted by: mao_tse_mom on 05.09.2007 at 04:41 pm in Garden Junk Forum

I thought I'd share with you my new greenhouse made with old windows. It's not quite done yet.

Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket


clipped on: 05.12.2008 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 05.12.2008 at 02:29 pm

RE: SAGT 02 - 11 please post if still in! (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: nicethyme on 02.19.2008 at 09:24 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Flag and Curb, you're fine - keeping building!


clipped on: 02.21.2008 at 11:26 am    last updated on: 02.21.2008 at 11:27 am

RE: introducing myself (Follow-Up #17)

posted by: lyndalu on 04.23.2007 at 08:00 pm in Garden Junk Forum

Hi pats....I'm glad you like the mushrooms. They were fun to make, and I love the look of them in the garden.

I let the concrete "cure" before I mosaic the item. There are differing opinions on this, and some people are mosaicing the next day, but I've been following the rule of wet curing for a couple of days (keep spritzing with water to keep item damp, and cover with plastic) and then I let it cure for at least a couple of weeks. All the books I've read say wait about 28 days (I try to wait that long, but sometimes it's a little shorter)....but like I said, I've heard differing opinions on this lately. If you're new to creating concrete structures, I highly recommend a book by Sherry Warner Hunter.

I use cement based adhesive (also called thinset) and the brand I use is Mapei - it's the MAPEI - Ultraflex 2 - Professional Grade Polymer Modified Mortar. It's good for both indoors and outdoors.

I use several different brands of grout - love the MAPEI - Keracolor-S (they have the best BLACK that I've found) have also used Custom Building Products - Polyblend, and recently used Tec AccuColor (scored some bags at a thrift store). I've had good experiences with all 3 of these brands. I definitely prefer SANDED grout over unsanded. And would NOT recommend pre-mixed grout. Also, when you mix up your grout - it's easier and less messy if you mix it a little on the dry side - like a thick peanut butter consistency....and I don't use a damp sponge for cleanup - I use soft cloths (strips from t-shirts work well)to wipe off the excess and clean up the tiles. On working with something the size of the bigger mushroom, by the time I finish putting on the last of the grout, the first part I applied was ready to be wiped down with the cloths. Since joining the other forum, I discovered that several people over there are using this same method...all with good results.

Hope this helps. AND....since you're new to mosaics, also come on over to the Stained Glass and Mosaics Forum...look through the FAQs there......there's a wealth of knowledge contained there, and it's like this forum, everyone is so nice and friendly and helpful. You'll be able to get answers to all your mosaic questions there - no sense in trial and error....when you can ask the questions ahead of time! Welcome to the world of mosaics - it's addicting!!



clipped on: 11.20.2007 at 09:59 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2007 at 09:59 pm

RE: introducing myself - mushroom instructions (Follow-Up #12)

posted by: lyndalu on 03.25.2007 at 01:34 pm in Garden Junk Forum

June the gems are just those half marbles.regular sizemaybe they just look big because they are on small pieces?

I made my mushrooms with a concrete mix over various objectsI used a recipe from a book by Sherri Warner Hunter its her Basic Sand Mix, which is 1 part Portland cement, 3 parts sand and approximately 1 part water. Im still very much a beginner at making concrete structures, but Ive got both of Sherri Warner Hunters books, and they have been very helpful to me.

On the 4 that look kind of like "button" mushrooms - I put the mix over a regular sized light bulb (light bulb covered in plastic wrap).

On the more elongated ones, I used a 6 oz yogurt container and put the mix over it, putting enough mix on the "top" (which of course is the bottom of the container), so that the top is more rounded, rather than flat. Oh, and I didnt try to "unmold" itthe plastic container is still in there.

For the stems on those 2 types, I took a piece of Styrofoam, and whittled it into the desired shape, stuck a long nail into the bottom, and then covered it with the mix. After a couple of days curing time for the cap and stem, I attached the stems to the caps by inserting the stem into the cap and pushing the mix all around it. After the concrete had fully cured, I painted the stems.

The taller lavender one was made over a glass bowl (covered in plastic wrap), with the mix over it.

The stem on the lavender one is a bud vase with the concrete mix over it. And the cap just sits on top of the bud vase its not attached.

And here's another type I'm working on. As a base, I used this metal thing - it's something from some type of light fixture. Thought the result might look a little like a portobello mushroom.


clipped on: 11.20.2007 at 09:58 pm    last updated on: 11.20.2007 at 09:58 pm

Back and Overwhelmed But Here's a Beginning

posted by: slowmedown on 03.08.2007 at 09:30 am in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

NO TIME to spend w/you wonderful people today but just to let you know ROSIE and I are back w/a couple pics, I've put a couple in my album for you to see my project that's still a WIP. Absolutely no words would describe the magical time we spent together w/CALAM and KLINGER, or the indescribable beauty, serenity, inspiring place where our brains were on overload every single moment and everywhere we looked while we spent there. I LOVED CALAM and KLINGER before, but now I absolutely adore those two wonderful people. They are now my "Forever Friends". I only wish every single one of you could have been there. I plan to go back next year. A couple pics of my little shrine follows. I made it from the technique we learned. The blue bottle bottom was found on our first day out on the street looking for treasures on the ground, as we searched for the elusive hardware store. Riana was wonderful, and her technique opened so many doors I'll never get to open them all to explore the possibilities. The art at the Hacienda is never-ending and I want to make one of each of the things I saw. Signing off now to get to work on catching up on reading the forum and, yes, chores in the garden that are screaming at me. Hoping to grout the shrine tomorrow.
Shrine WIP


clipped on: 03.09.2007 at 10:20 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2007 at 10:20 pm

The Recipe - Hope I can do this RIGHT!!!

posted by: slowmedown on 03.08.2007 at 03:44 pm in Stained Glass & Mosaics Forum

Painting my ironing board legs, but decided to check in and am thinking I better take the time to try to relate what we learned. The others can fill in where I leave gaps, or I'll be happy to answer any questions.

For those who have a sewing background, this w/be a little easier. I used to sew all my clothes, so I related the proceedure to making a pattern to cut a dress. All her structures are a double layer of the mesh, so do everything in twos. The wire mesh is the galvanized lathe - diamond-shaped stuff used to plaster walls. To make a life-sized person, Riana begins by sorta measuring her face, cuts a piece of the mesh and begins to shape the face by folding the chin area into sorta a v-shape, cutting darts where she needed to fold and overlap for stitches, etc. To shape the forehead she cut a piece to size, leaving enough to bend and lay across to shape the forehead enough wings to attach it to the face, w/stitches made from 19 guage wire. She cuts a piece about 6/8" then turns in about an inch w/the pliers, pinches the folded end to make a "hook needle" that she pushes through the layers, to catch the pieces and then she can pull it through to wind around a couple times w/the pliers then cuts the ends off w/the cutting part of the pliers as close as possible w/o cutting the "knot". Use as many stitches as necessary to hold the piece to shape. W/each additional piece of mesh to shape the ears, nose, leave "wings" for attaching it to the base of the face. Sculpturing the face/head she then goes on to the shoulders by just bending a piece into an arched piece the length from shoulder to shoulder so the head w/be able to sit in the middle by cutting, shaping, darting so it sits properly. Remember - double layers of everything. The neck w/be a short tube you w/cut around bottom/top for the wings to attach to the head, then cut and darted to fit the shoulders once the head is attached. She goes through the whole process of sculpturing the whole body, darting, patching, pinching, folding, punching to shape, etc. The recipe for the mud mixture to be gently pushed in between the two pieces of mesh layer and smoothes over the mesh (not to completely cover) is: 1 part Portland cement to three parts of mason sand. She was using local stuff so the sand was course, and b/c the metal mesh wasn't available there, she used hardware "cloth" metal mesh - ungalvanized - 1/4" holes. After pushing through and smoothing out the structure, she covers w/plastic to dry over night. There were spots of the mesh not completely covered w/the concrete, and that was ok. It is a just a very thin layer on the outside, thereby making the statue light enough to move around easily. Next day, in most cases, it is ready to be refined or smoothed out the rough edges, especially trimming the "stitches", bumps knocked off, it is ready to be mosaiced. She doesn't cover all parts in mosaics. As shown in ROSIE's photo of the statue she made of our hostess Sam, bird and dog, she uses different colored grouts and exterior house paints to finish her pieces. She uses powdered colorants, and paints when she can't find grout in colors she wishes to use. On the arms and legs, she showed us how to use a runny mixture of grout to smooth over the skeleton to cover the mesh and concrete that won't be covered by mosaics. She makes her own grout w/one part type 1 Portland cement w/one-two parts silica sand or you can buy a regular sanded grout. For mosaicing she uses cement-based polymer fortified tile adhesive for adhering. The local stuff wasn't great, and when an occasional piece fell off, she used Weldbond to put it back on. The climate there is mild, so ...... She didn't even know what a pistol-grip glass scoring tool was. Her only tools are a hammer, a tile nipper, the tile cutter w/the little wheel to score and a trowel for mixing the cement/sand mixture - VERY BASIC TOOLS. Ask away, if this isn't clear.


clipped on: 03.09.2007 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 03.09.2007 at 09:41 pm