Clippings by feisty68

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Review of QEP tile levelers for diy

posted by: suzannesl on 06.12.2014 at 01:48 pm in Bathrooms Forum

We're in the midst of tiling our tub surround with 12 x 24 tiles and I thought I'd share how the QEP tile levelers from Home Depot are working out.
 photo QEPtilelevelers_zpsc1337fc0.jpg

I spent a lot of time researching tile leveling systems and ended up with the ones from Home Depot because they were the only ones that made sense economically for a one-off use. One of the big criticisms was that they killed your thumbs after a while, but in a 5' tub alcove installation this wasn't an issue. If I were in the business of doing this sort of tiling, I'd go with one of the fancier systems, but for this application I am more than satisfied with the performance and ease of use of the QEP. When we took out the spacers and the wedges this morning (which was easy), everything was level and perfect looking except for a couple of small areas on the edge tile where we didn't use the levelers. By the time we get the grout in, I'm pretty sure no one will notice the imperfections but us. [Note: if you want a 1/16" space between your tiles you don't need spacers, just the levelers. We needed a 3/16" space for these tiles, so we used a spacer along with the levelers. Works just fine.]

FYI: In this photo we have 2 ledger boards. Those big tiles are really heavy! The bottom one is because it's recommended to do that and put the lowest tile on last so everything up above is perfectly level. It's so level, you can pin a star on us! The second ledger board is because we're putting a mosaic tile in there and there's no way it would support those big tiles above it. Those finish areas are today's job. The green on the wall is Hydro Ban for waterproofing. When we took the ledger boards off, we screwed the screws back in and painted over them with more Hydro Ban - currently waiting for it to dry so we can finish the job. We used little nails at the bottom and sides of the finish tiles on the edge because they slide down the wall without support - yes, we tried it. Those holes got Hydro Banned too.

Here is a link that might be useful: QEP spacer clips-Part A

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clipped on: 06.12.2014 at 09:41 pm    last updated on: 06.12.2014 at 09:42 pm

ISO: European style (?) *soft* topper + supportive mattress

posted by: feisty68 on 06.05.2014 at 06:51 pm in Home Decorating & Design Forum

Dh moved in with me 2 years ago and is really miserable with our double bed which is IKEA wood frame with PU foam non-coil mattress and memory foam topper. I know, I'm 46 and I don't even have a grown-up's bed.

We both agree that the dreamiest bed we ever slept on was in a boutique hotel in Europe. Sigh...memories. It was a mattress that had a separate topper. Funnily, quite a few people complained in reviews that the bed was too soft and the management explained that the topper could be removed for a firmer bed. So I'm thinking that's what we want: a supportive quality mattress with a very soft topper. (edited to add: Queen size - king would be too large in our bedroom)

Dh is 6'2" and thin - he just has no padding on his body so I think that's part of the issue for him. Also, I think the memory foam topper that we have is causing temperature regulation issues for him - he feels hot then cold all night. I also notice that.

I've seen a lot of positive reviews of latex mattresses and toppers. I think I'd find them comfortable but when I've tried lying on them I've found them quite firm so I'm not sure that would work for dh. Also, they seem like a costly option.

Allergies are an issue too - I think dust mites might be bothering me. I'm looking for suggestions for dust mite covers for mattresses and toppers that won't be hot and sweaty. Our summers are cool-ish so we don't have air conditioning. But that can make for some uncomfortably hot nights at certain times of the year.

I'm located in west coast Canada so that restricts my options.

Advice would be much appreciated!

This post was edited by feisty68 on Thu, Jun 5, 14 at 19:41

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clipped on: 06.05.2014 at 09:25 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2014 at 09:25 pm

RE: Glass/Acrylic Shower Wall Panels in US? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: Trebruchet on 06.04.2014 at 11:01 pm in Bathrooms Forum

luckystar22:

Take a look at the Avonite Glass series. It looks great, similar to your picture, and will outperform any tile or stone.
Fabrication is straightforward.

Here is a link that might be useful: Avonite Glass

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clipped on: 06.05.2014 at 05:30 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2014 at 05:31 pm

RE: grout with sealer - ie. Fusion Pro single component grout (Follow-Up #14)

posted by: StoneTech on 06.04.2014 at 08:53 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Enduring~~Just give them the color (and/or the grout number) and the Manufacturer. Trust this....they HAVE the colour charts and can "custom Mix" the exact colour for you! Paul and I have used them numerous times....and they ALWAYS deliver!

(edit) Not certain if sending them a "sample" of your mixed grout will work or not. They formulate their caulk by Mfg. grout number...and possibly by matching on the sample chart...but I imagine they can custom blend for you. They offer sanded, unsanded and I think matt or smooth. Very helpful people...

This post was edited by StoneTech on Thu, Jun 5, 14 at 13:49

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clipped on: 06.05.2014 at 05:28 pm    last updated on: 06.05.2014 at 05:28 pm

RE: Kitchen backsplash (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: davidtay on 08.03.2011 at 01:04 pm in Kitchens Forum

Sheet glass is extremely expensive as the glass will have to be fabricated with cutouts for the wall outlets and whatever other holes needed.

There could be sections depending on the size and skill of the fabricator/ installer.
The glass will be held to the wall with gobs of silicone.

ColorKote is one vendor.

An alternative is using Porcelanosa Crystal Acido large format tile.

The tile is ~ 39.5" by 13". There are a number of colors to choose from.

Here are several views of my kitchen
View into kitchen
Kitchen+ Sink
DSCN0914

Here is a link that might be useful: Crystal Acido

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 12:37 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 12:37 pm

Our almost finished kitchen (w/ tile countertops!)....

posted by: mom2cohen on 11.12.2010 at 03:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

Before....

Photobucket

During....

Photobucket

After....

Photobucket

Photobucket

Thank you for ALL your inspiring posts and pictures! I have been lurking around here for months trying to decide on what we will use and how we will set things up! I haven't posted a ton but when I did you all helped me SO much! Thanks again!

*Countertops: Rectified porcelain from blackandwhitetile.com
*Floors: Strand Bamboo from Cali Bamboo
*Appliances: Electrolux from Best Buy Floor Model Clearance Warehouse which we purchased for a little under $350 a piece!!!!
*Cabinets: Ikea
*Silver Barstools: Lowes
* Pottery Barn Porter Pendants

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 12:34 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 12:34 pm

RE: Choosing tiles is tough -- did you match your floor and showe (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: robotropolis on 03.03.2014 at 11:09 am in Bathrooms Forum

PS The tile I got is nustone porcelain and if you could find it, I think it would maybe suit your needs:

http://www.tilegiant.co.uk/tiles/floor/nustone.html

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clipped on: 05.17.2014 at 12:16 pm    last updated on: 05.17.2014 at 12:16 pm

RE: Ceiling curtain track (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: ineffablespace on 05.12.2014 at 05:08 pm in Bathrooms Forum

I got mine from here, but it's not installed yet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Trax ceiling shower rod

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clipped on: 05.16.2014 at 07:51 pm    last updated on: 05.16.2014 at 07:51 pm

how to get this to-die-for gray-stained effect?

posted by: feisty68 on 04.29.2014 at 04:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

Stunning right?

How would you get this stain effect DIY?

What would you ask a cabinet front manufacturer for if you wanted this effect?

What species of wood would you need?

Just to be complicated, I would want a custom colour shown below (paint chip) - but I would expect the wood colour and grain to be distinctly showing through as above in my inspiration photo. I need the green undertone because a blueish gray would clash with the River White granite counters.

I am very confused after talking to a cabinet door finisher so I need some vocabulary here. Advice would be appreciated!

Here is a link that might be useful: A Downton Abbey-Worthy Kitchen

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clipped on: 05.14.2014 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2014 at 04:23 pm

what to check for when your stone counters get installed

posted by: feisty68 on 05.08.2014 at 12:03 pm in Kitchens Forum

It's been hard to read all the threads about shoddy countertop work. I thought it would be useful to collect a thread about how handle the important pre-, during-, and post-installation phase to prevent and pursue remedy for installation problems. It sounds like one often has to play hardball with the contractor, and most of us are not experts on that.

I'd welcome thoughts on:

1. what to do before installation?

2. what to inspect after installation?

3. how to handle final payment?

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clipped on: 05.14.2014 at 04:23 pm    last updated on: 05.14.2014 at 04:23 pm

RE: Installing fridge panel against wall (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: Trebruchet on 05.05.2014 at 02:56 pm in Kitchens Forum

dcward89:

You need to scribe the panel to the wall. Push the panel tight to the wall and plumb it both ways with a level. Lay a pencil against the wall and pull it down, marking the panel. If the gap is too big to be marked continuously, shim out the pencil. Cut on your line and screw some 3/4" blocking continuously along the cut on the inside of the panel. Screw the blocking to the wall and you're done.


Here is a link that might be useful: Scribing

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clipped on: 05.05.2014 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2014 at 04:14 pm

RE: led lighting for 9' x 10' dark kitchen with no upper cabinets (Follow-Up #23)

posted by: feisty68 on 05.05.2014 at 01:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

So, dh calmed down a bit and we had some constructive conversations. Budget will be quite an issue at this point in the renovation.

Looks like track lighting is still on the table as the main lighting source, but we haven't settled on LED vs halogen.

It also looks like dh may be open to having wall-mounted accent lighting as well - probably one on either side of the range, and one on a column over the island. I think that pendants won't really work over the island because they impact sightlines too much. Also, the three columns of the island are awkward-looking, and I think that mounting a fixture on one of them may help them look more intentional, like this:

Love the fixture above (Artemide Tolomeo) but it's out of the budget. Any similar lower budget options? Something articulated like that would be perfect to allow flexibility of height and how much it extends over the worktop.

This is not ideal, but a contender -

Cedar & Moss Tilt Cone

Dh finds the wall-mounted fixture idea acceptable if it's hardwired with an integrated switch - from both looks and installation perspective. The Tilt Cone fixture above can be ordered with a switch on the wall plate.

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clipped on: 05.05.2014 at 01:33 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2014 at 01:33 pm

retro? cordless landline phone that isn't ugly

posted by: feisty68 on 04.29.2014 at 01:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

Seems like no one is designing these any more. What I'm looking for is:

* touchtone
* designed for North America
* cordless
* works
* possibly retro styling
* preferably wall mounted
* not insanely expensive

This what I DON'T want -

Is this too hard? Pottery Barn used to make one, but now they only have the corded one, which isn't practical for me.

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clipped on: 04.29.2014 at 01:25 pm    last updated on: 04.29.2014 at 01:25 pm

RE: source for tiles in this stylish unfitted kitchen? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: feisty68 on 04.20.2014 at 02:13 am in Kitchens Forum

Wow nosoccermom. We truly live in an amazing world. Those tiles are lovely.

And 1929Spanish, Arto does indeed have such similar variegated hex tiles like in my inspiration photo!

I liked the idea of variegated tile because it would "bridge" nicely with the colour of the adjacent oak, without being too "matchy-matchy". I also really like these:

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clipped on: 04.28.2014 at 03:08 pm    last updated on: 04.28.2014 at 03:08 pm

RE: How do you like your recessed LED lights? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: corgimum on 04.14.2013 at 02:29 pm in Kitchens Forum

I can't imagine not liking LED's. We like ours so much that we are changing out the CFL's and incandescent bulbs in the most used places in the house. Our kitchen recessed lights are Sylvania 3000K 6''. We also have the Philips eW profile UCL's (3000K) and the Cree bulbs (2700K) in the pendant lights and the light over the table.

http://www.colorkinetics.com/ls/essentialwhite/ewprofilep/

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Cree-9-5-Watt-60W-A19-Warm-White-2700K-LED-Light-Bulb-1-Pack-BA19-08027OMF-12DE26-1U100/203991774

Here is a link that might be useful: Sylvania LED

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clipped on: 04.25.2014 at 04:06 pm    last updated on: 04.25.2014 at 04:06 pm

RE: fantasy: cheapo brass 12" modern-ish pull (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: nosoccermom on 04.18.2014 at 04:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Here you go. They ship to Canada (maybe even for free if more than 49.00).
$12.37

Here is a link that might be useful: build.com for drawer pulls

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clipped on: 04.22.2014 at 03:41 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2014 at 03:41 pm

please help with my two tiny depressing bathrooms

posted by: feisty68 on 04.19.2014 at 02:17 am in Bathrooms Forum

We are renovating the kitchen and - shhhh! don't tell my husband - I am thinking about the bathrooms now. I get so depressed when I look at inspiration photos for bathrooms. I don't even know what kind of lens you would need to photograph bathrooms the size of mine.

Our home is a 12-year-old, 1000 sf, 3 bedroom apartment housing a family of four. The home - though small - is designed for a family (it's a cohousing community). It's tight for us but it's a close-knit community and we need to make it work for now. Re-sale IS a consideration.

I've posted the layout below. It is very odd because there is a powder room and a bathroom side by side, off the hallway. They are both tiny, windowless, and have 7 ft ceilings. I feel horribly claustrophobic in both bathrooms. The original tiles, toilets, vanities, and wall colour are all awful and need replacing. Mold and musty towels are issues due to lack of ventilation - we use the bathroom fan but it is crummy and there are no windows.

If we weren't a family of four, I would remove the toilet from the main bathroom to create more space and feeling of luxury. Unfortunately, I think that two toilets are necessary for us. Also, I am using the complex's laundry facilities, but I want to maintain the option of installing a washer/dryer in the designated location in the powder room (re-sale).

Should I maintain the current layout? There may be significant constraints due to it being a multi-family building, load bearing walls, etc.

Some ideas I have:

* install an openable frosted window on the south wall of the bathroom (above tub)

* install a solatube in the powder room (laundry machines would block a window

* remove the drywall on the ceiling and leave pipes/vents exposed (or drywalled) to create 8 ft ceilings

* IKEA Godmorgen wall mounted vanities with drawers - with white ceramic sinks and modern single hole faucets

* install between-the-stud storage on the east wall of the bathroom

* upgrade ceiling fans to ones that actually work

* tile floors that have some continuity with adjacent hardwood for "flow" in the small spaces

* good quality wall tiles in main bathroom - possibly tile all walls since it is small? minimize grout somehow? the grout has not held up well after 12 years

* the tub is an ugly but functional white acrylic soaker tub that has lost its gloss - any way to freshen it? better options? I would love something easier to clean...I think I damaged the tub by using tile cleaning chemicals -arg.

* I really want skirted toilets - my son has "issues" and...let's just leave it at that. I need easy to clean surfaces.

Am I missing something? Any inspiration photos for me? Speciic product advice? What works for me is a soft modern look, with subtle retro/artsy/organic touches.

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clipped on: 04.22.2014 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 04.22.2014 at 03:40 pm

RE: Installing a saddle as a track to pocket doors (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: bpeikes on 02.11.2013 at 11:01 pm in Remodeling Forum

Thanks. Don't know how I missed that on the Johnson hardware site. That brass channel is pricey, I'll have to call Johnson to get the measurement of the inside of the track. Found a couple of other sources for the brass track that appear to be less expensive. Dkhardware.com has 8ft of 1/2" track for 30$

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clipped on: 04.21.2014 at 01:18 pm    last updated on: 04.21.2014 at 01:18 pm

range hood vent installation - best practices

posted by: elphaba on 04.07.2014 at 07:25 am in Appliances Forum

Over the several months that I've been collecting information on installation of a range hood vent, I've learned quite a bit here. So I thought I would pass on this "best practices" info that has been very helpful to me about the ductwork. It's for a Ventahood ( I think) but seems pretty generic to me.
It doesn't answer questions about induction vs gas but it did help me determine exactly what size ductwork to use, etc.
It also mentions at the end :
"Since smoke also expands as it rises, the hoods sides and
front edge should extend 3" to 6" beyond the front and sides of
the cooking surface"

I knew the recommendation was to increase size on the sides but I didn't know about doing that in front. Well, don't think this is required by code so we will pass on this requirement but if we had problems, we might consider moving the vent away from the wall (and extending the ductwork.)

So much to think about. I don't have a G.C. to pass this task onto so appreciate all the tips here. Hope this stuff I'm posting here may help someone else.
Best Practices - vent hood

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clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 11:33 pm    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 11:34 pm

RE: Shopping for a new Toilet? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: raehelen on 04.03.2014 at 04:21 pm in Bathrooms Forum

Kruise,

I also live in a 'town' of about 100,000. (here in Canada, we call that a 'city', LOL).

We have a number of plumbing supply places/showrooms that usually have the toilets down on the floor and bolted down so that you can 'try them on'.

Seattle would definitely have lots of choices too. I am just north of you, in the Lower Mainland of Vancouver.

I have three different toilets, my newest and most favourite, is the Toto Vespin11. A skirted version of the Toto Drake. Can highly recommend it.

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clipped on: 04.07.2014 at 01:53 am    last updated on: 04.07.2014 at 01:53 am

RE: Which primer would be better for painting honey oak cabinet? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: sombreuil_mongrel on 04.03.2014 at 02:51 pm in Kitchens Forum

Ben Moore oil based enamel undercoater. It is the heaviest-bodied primer they make, has a ton of silicate filler and pigment and is very sandable for a perfect smooth undercoat.
Casey

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clipped on: 04.05.2014 at 12:56 am    last updated on: 04.05.2014 at 12:56 am

RE: anyone with cork in the kitchen, shout out! (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: smiling on 04.02.2014 at 03:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I installed cork this year, and I just love it. Really is as soft and warm as they claim. Mine is the floating plank, and it looks a lot more like wood than cork. Brand is US Floors. It has a nice soft satin finish that glows, but a very tough top wear layer that is smooth and easy to vac/Swiffer/or sweep. The only drawback is that it will sun-fade over time, and I'm OK with that since it's natural to the patterns of light in my kitchen, and I don't plan to put any rugs in the sunlit areas. Look for a brand with a good thick top layer (i.e. NOT the stuff at Lumber Liquidators!)

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clipped on: 04.02.2014 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 04.02.2014 at 03:39 pm

RE: Hidden Countertop Support Brackets (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: suzannesl on 06.03.2013 at 01:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Reposted from a 2011 thread:

"Hopefully this will help future readers looking for answers. The post by Buehl is all over the conditions of needing support as recommended by the MIA (Marble Institute of America).
This is for "Single-Level" counters with cantilever overhang:
For 3cm stone: any overhang over 10" will need additional support; spaced every 36" or less.
For 2cm stone: any overhang over 6" will need additional support; spaced every 24" or less.
For "single-level", the goal is to support the cantilever. We do this with CONCEALED SUPPORT. Single-level concealed supports use the mass of the supported material to "reach out" and support the un-supported material. "

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clipped on: 04.01.2014 at 05:06 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2014 at 05:06 pm

RE: Granite counter top support over a dishwasher (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: shelayne on 05.02.2010 at 03:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

We had to put brackets over our dishwasher because we have a farm sink to the right, and an oven cabinet to the left of the dishwasher and not enough room to add extra side panels. DH screwed 2 x 4s into the studs (level with the tops of the cabinets, to also act as a support) on the back wall, and then screwed 20" x 20" cold rolled steel brackets to the 2 X 4s. Our fabricator was very happy with them. This worked very well for us because we have the sink cabinet bumped out a little from the wall, and our dishwasher is not as deep as some of the dishwashers by US companies.

Here is a photo:
Brackets over dishwasher

The brackets were made by Short Run Pro.

Here is a link that might be useful: Freedom Granite Countertop Brackets

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clipped on: 04.01.2014 at 01:45 pm    last updated on: 04.01.2014 at 01:45 pm

RE: need a low-cost microwave - under-counter - 24" cabinet (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: feisty68 on 03.20.2014 at 07:08 pm in Appliances Forum

This is a possibility:

Frigidaire 0.7 Cu. Ft. Countertop Microwave
17-1/4" W x 13-1/8" D x 10-1/8" H
FFCM0734LS

But the owner's manual doesn't specify space needed around the microwave. I've seen 3" and 4" required by other manufacturers.

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clipped on: 03.20.2014 at 07:22 pm    last updated on: 03.20.2014 at 07:22 pm

RE: Exhaust Vents - I Can't Be The Only One.... (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: feisty68 on 03.17.2014 at 04:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

I don't know if it's appropriate for your situation, but here's a solution that I found:

Here is a link that might be useful: What Is Make-Up Air? (Definitions/Solutions)

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 04:18 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 04:18 pm

RE: take a peek at my "soft modern" small kitchen design? (Follow-Up #51)

posted by: feisty68 on 03.13.2014 at 12:45 pm in Kitchens Forum

11th hour layout advice is welcome! I'll be starting to buy cabinet boxes today or tomorrow!

Here's my IKEA planner file:
feisty's kitchen in 3D

Here's the existing kitchen:

Here's a screenshot of the plan for the kitchen:

And here's my current mood board:

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 02:30 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 02:31 pm

design solutions for columns incorporated into island??

posted by: feisty68 on 03.02.2014 at 02:21 pm in Kitchens Forum

Hi folks,

Can anyone help me with island detailing? It looks like we need to keep 2 structural columns to replace a small load-bearing wall. The columns will probably be 6"x6"?? I've highlighted them in green, but obviously I would want them to look as unobtrusive as possible. The door to the left of the fridge is the entrance to our home so the columns will be quite visible. Also, I need to incorporate light switches and power outlets in there somewhere.

Does anyone have inspiration photos for how to incorporate columns into islands elegantly?

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 02:29 pm

RE: Grey stained cabinets (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: wizardnm on 07.05.2012 at 01:59 pm in Kitchens Forum

Two years ago I intended to go with natural white birch cabinets. Then I started seeing posts all over the net about grey becoming the new neutral. I fell in love with grey.

In my kitchen I wanted to keep my cabinets light and I wanted to see the wood grain. Painted cabs were not for me as I do like the warmth of wood and I also wanted to do the cabs with a horizontal grain with slab doors. There was nothing in the showrooms in grey other than grey painted.
I did get quotes on natural birch and the two places I liked the best gave me estimates within $500.00. The estimates were the same layout but one was from a true custom maker and the other claimed custom but used stock sizes and had some spacers. I went with the custom guy and I am so happy I did. When I asked him about doing a grey stain, he said no problem. He did about 20 samples of grey stain, trying to capture my vision.

I have now been living with the finished cabs for about 1 1/2 years. I find them calming, not cold, not institutional and I am so happy I went in the direction I did.

Here is a wall of cabs....
Photobucket

A shot of the other walls. I am getting ready to change the wall color to a softer shade of either aqua or grey and am looking for a slab of granite for the backsplash behind the cook top.
Photobucket

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 02:28 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 02:28 pm

RE: Need advice on best kitchen shelf liner (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: talley_sue_nyc on 02.24.2013 at 05:10 pm in Organizing the Home Forum

I use different ones in different places.

I use the ribbed ones in pots-and-pans cupboards, under the sink, under glassware, and under the cooking oils.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic Image and video hosting by TinyPic

In drawers, I like the Con-Tact Ultra-Grip shelf liner
http://www.contactbrand.com/products/taupe-ultra-grip/
It's smooth on the top and sort of rubbery on the bottom.

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Another similar option is Duck Smooth Top Easy Liner; it's sort of rubbery on the bottom but smooth on the top
(I really don't like the one that's a rubbery grid--not for shelf or drawer liners)
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

http://duckbrand.com/products/shelf-liner/non-adhesive-liners/smooth-top-easy-liner

There's a Solid Easy Liner that Duck makes, but I don't know that I'd use it; it seems sort of thick. But maybe.

Any way, I don't think any single design is right for all places.

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 02:26 pm

super-quiet 600+ cfm range hood for condo - mission impossible??

posted by: feisty68 on 03.06.2014 at 06:15 pm in Appliances Forum

Pretty please save me from hood research misery?! I have read many threads and articles on this, but I still don't know what the best solution is for my needs. Here's my set-up:

This post was edited by feisty68 on Thu, Mar 6, 14 at 18:17

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clipped on: 03.17.2014 at 02:24 pm    last updated on: 03.17.2014 at 02:25 pm