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RE: Tiling progress (or, I still have all of my fingers!) (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bill_vincent on 04.04.2009 at 11:40 pm in Kitchens Forum

Put...the tile..down...and step....away...from the power tool! :-)

One question, the occasional spark is normal right? By spark, I mean like the kind when one tries to cut thru metal?

Yes and no. It's to be expected sooner or later, but it's telling you that either you're trying to push the tile through too fast, or it's time to "dress" the blade. What that means is to go down to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a single concrete landscaping brick. Run it through the saw about a dozen times, taking off about a 1/4" sliver each time. Your blade should then cut like a hot knife thru butter.

What it does, is the concrete is hard enough to wear down the metal on the blade, but not hard enough to wear down the diamond, and running it thru a few times like that will wear enough metal off the rim to expose more diamond and make it cut better.


dressing wet saw blade
clipped on: 04.06.2009 at 01:24 pm    last updated on: 04.06.2009 at 01:24 pm

RE: Different countertop heights, will this look bad? (Follow-Up #36)

posted by: erikanh on 02.05.2009 at 09:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

Thanks everyone for all your input. I decided to sleep on it before making a decision.

Fori, thanks for posting that link for me. I don't know what Redrange's height difference is, but it looks fine.

My carpenter put my top on today, and after seeing how great the thick wood looks, I've decided not to plane it down. I'm going to think of it as a separate piece and the backsplash will be different too. Also, I really didn't want to give up the Dupont edge for the marble. Going to keep my fingers crossed that it turns out looking nice...




clipped on: 02.06.2009 at 12:32 pm    last updated on: 02.06.2009 at 12:32 pm

Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: buehl on 02.04.2009 at 11:14 am in Kitchens Forum

There are three things you have to do to get emails sent to you:
  1. Be sure you have a valid/current email address in your profile
  2. Again in your profile, be sure you have the "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked (at the bottom of the profile page)
  3. Be sure to check the box labeled "Check here if you would like copies of follow-ups to your message emailed to you" when you submit your post. (Below the "Message" box)

Hmmm...maybe a 4th step...don't forget to "Save Your Member Profile" when you make changes! (button at bottom of profile page)

If you do all 3 (or 4!) things, you should get an email when someone posts to your message. Item 1 should be retroactive and Item 3 is not (you cannot update a Thread); I don't know if item 2 is retroactive. All future messages, though, should be fine.



clipped on: 02.05.2009 at 10:20 am    last updated on: 02.05.2009 at 10:20 am

I put copyright on Photobucket image!

posted by: rhome410 on 11.25.2008 at 02:37 am in Kitchens Forum

You CAN edit your images in Photobucket to add text...
See? :-D It can be sized to your liking and whatever color and font.

I don't think I can do whole batches at a time, but I haven't looked into it too far. But now that my albums are 'private', the pictures don't link back to the rest of the photos, so I can just edit as I want to post one. Later for the FKB, or when I get around to it, I'll just make a new album set to 'public' with all the images edited properly.



clipped on: 01.28.2009 at 11:23 am    last updated on: 01.28.2009 at 11:23 am

RE: Height between pantry shelves? (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: rhome410 on 01.16.2009 at 12:46 pm in Kitchens Forum

I started with Sharb's measurements, then adjusted according to my needs, and things like where outlets were placed, etc.

My spaces between shelves, from floor to 9 ft ceiling are: 19", 15", 14", 10", 10", 14", 21 1/2". The 19" at the bottom allows for my roll-out bins for grains and pet food. The 10" are what I needed for cans stacked 2 high. The others fit cereal boxes, gallon jugs, my grain mill, etc.



clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 02:27 pm

RE: Height between pantry shelves? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 01.16.2009 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

This is what we did in our corner step-in pantry:

[The MW, btw, didn't fit so it is not in the pantry as originally planned.]

Also, SharB once posted her measurements but the thread has long since fallen off. I saved them and here they are:


[Sharb's] pantry measures 4 feet wide by 5 feet deep.
Starting at the top:

18" top shelf to ceiling (Things I don't need often or are lightweight.)
15" to next shelf (cereal boxes, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
10" to next (canned goods, etc.)
16" to next (small appliances)
20" from bottom shelf to floor (extra waters, heavy items)

The depth of the back shelf and the right side 12". The left side is 6" and holds my [SharB's] husband's hot sauces and other small items.


clipped on: 01.23.2009 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 01.23.2009 at 02:26 pm

Sharb-inspired Pantry Done!

posted by: buehl on 11.04.2008 at 10:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

We finally finished our DIY Sharb-inspired pantry! (Sorry folks, no chandelier!)

Here are the pics....

Come visit my pantry...

Pantry Entrance...

The door opens...

Entering the pantry...

The left side...

The left side has 15" deep shelves and holds, top-to-bottom, cereals, snacks & drinks, gluten-free foods, cookbooks & appliance manuals, two bins--one for yams & one for white potatoes, and toaster oven & coffeemaker on the floor. (Small appliance shelf now holds cookbooks. Toaster Oven & coffee maker are now on the floor.)

Left Side, top

Left Side, middle

Left Side, bottom/floor

The right side...

The right side has 12" deep shelves and holds, top-to-bottom, paper towels, baking/cooking supplies (next 3 shelves), small appliances, more baking supplies. The floor has a stool & paper plates & plastic cups. My extra oven racks are leaning against the far right wall. Eventually, we will be mounting our broom & dustpan there. (Don't know where the extra oven racks will go.)

Right Side, top half

Right Side, bottom half


clipped on: 01.07.2009 at 05:39 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2009 at 05:39 pm

RE: Foot Pedal for Trash OR Tapmaster? (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: buehl on 08.23.2008 at 02:17 pm in Kitchens Forum

As far as I know Jbrazmania, no one has managed to figure out a way to use it with inset doors...framed, yes, but inset...not yet anyway!

For those interested, the Hfele foot pedals are designed for frameless cabinets. However, our own MeToo2 figured out a way to use them w/framed cabinets. See below for MeToo2's instructions and links to pictures in the Gallery:


From the "Pull Out Trash" thread started by ColdTropics on Fri, Jul 20, 07 at 2:43

Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 19:27

Front View when cabinet is shut:
Hafele Foot Pedal Door Opener view when door is shut. Face frame cabinets-full overlay.

View of foot pedal when cabinet is open. Keep in mind this view will be hidden when trash cans are in the cabinet:
Hafele foot pedal door opener. Portion of the foot pedal attached to face frame bottom.

Metal plate mounted on bottom back of door. This is the plate that is 3.5" tall--to deal with a face framed cabinet:
Hafele foot pedal door opener. This is the metal plate that must be mounted on the inside bottom of the door. I had to make a plate 3.5" tall in order to work with a face frame cabinet.

Finally, looking at the bottom of the cabinet. Glued a scrap of wood to the back of the face frame.
Hafele foot pedal door opener. View from the front bottom of the cabinet. Note that I glued a scrap piece of wood to the back of the face frame to reinforce the installation.

Posted by metoo2 (My Page) on Wed, Aug 15, 07 at 20:01

muscat: The rails are always attached to the door-regardless of whether your trash cans hang from a rail, or your trash cans sit on a base. In your picture, the cans sit on a base.

I believe that my modifications will also work with your situation (cans sitting on a base). However, you will need to make one minor modification that I did not do. That modification has to do with the elastic cords that come with the pedal.

Elastic cords (ie, bungee cords) pull the door open when the pedal is kicked. You would have to alter where the front of the cords are mounted inside the cabinet. Very easy to do.

Earlier posts on this thread refer to a version of the Hafele pedal for trash cans which sit on a base. I have not seen this product. I suspect they use the identical pedal, but altered the instructions relative to the location where to mount the elastic cords.


Hafele foot pedal (502.15.220) for bins hanging from rails (see bottom of page):

Hafele foot pedal (502.15.113) for bins sitting in pullout "drawer/shelf" (see bottom of page):

Note: As of today and as far as I know, Hafele is the only manufacturer of foot pedals for trash pullouts. BTW...These Hafele pedals can be found at other sites than the links above.


clipped on: 01.07.2009 at 05:38 pm    last updated on: 01.07.2009 at 05:38 pm

RE: xenon vs. LED vs. fluorescent undercab lighting (Follow-Up #18)

posted by: catamount90 on 12.22.2008 at 05:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

I went with Seagull LX xenon linear low voltage lighting under my cabinets. It is warm but not HOT by any stretch.

One tip given to me by the woman at the lighting store was to put tiny washers under the screws when mounting the track to the underside of the cabinets. The allows for airflow between the track and cabinet and keeps everything much cooler.


clipped on: 01.06.2009 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 01.06.2009 at 05:36 pm

RE: counter support for island (Follow-Up #19)

posted by: Robert (Guest) on 10.07.2008 at 10:10 am in Kitchens Forum

I had been agonizing over this very subject for days, reading everything I can, hitting all the web sites, etc.
Short Run Pro was a logical choice in the search for overhang support, though the cost and timing was not too attractive. They have a bracket load calculater that's really cool.
Pew1's post on their angle iron support was the most interesting, since it clearly offered more stability than flat stock or standard angle brackets.
For my granite countertop I have chosen Chemical Concepts Counterbalance Island bracket.
It is an "L" bracket design that I can easily route into the top of the cabinet for up to 18" of support. I'll post pics once the bracket install is done.

Here is a link that might be useful: Specialty Tools CounterBalance


clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 03:54 pm

RE: counter support for island - pics before counter installed? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: holligator on 08.03.2008 at 06:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used very heavy L brackets that were attached to the inside of our cabinets. The top of the cabinet had to be notched out to accommodate the bracket, so I'm not sure this would work if you have doors all the way to the top of your frame.

This isn't great, but it's the best pic I have before the counter was installed.


clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 03:53 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 03:53 pm

RE: counter support for island - pics before counter installed? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: patti823 on 08.01.2008 at 02:54 pm in Kitchens Forum

We used the "L" brackets. Here is a picture of before & after.




clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 03:52 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 03:52 pm

RE: counter support for island - pics before counter installed? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: pew1 on 07.30.2008 at 02:14 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are many ways to do it. I chose to use one inch angle iron, which stops well short of the outside edge keeping it out of sight. You will find other examples which use flat iron stock. The application will change based on your cabinet structure.

In our case there is a 19 inch overhang in the middle, you can see the outline drawn on the floor.



clipped on: 01.05.2009 at 03:51 pm    last updated on: 01.05.2009 at 03:51 pm

RE: Kitchen renovation-follow from the start (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: remodelfla on 10.31.2008 at 05:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

1. Open a free account with photobucket
2. Upload your photos
3. Copy the html code that will appear under your pic
4. Paste code into your forum message

It'll initially appear as a bunch of letter/numbers but when you submit the message; your pic will appear imbedded in the message.


clipped on: 11.02.2008 at 06:55 pm    last updated on: 11.02.2008 at 06:55 pm

Ann Sacks color match

posted by: cbo2008 on 10.22.2008 at 11:31 am in Kitchens Forum

Hi - we're in the process of picking out our backsplash tile. We have cream cabinets and a soapstone countertop. The lines of the kitchen are pretty clean and simple. As a result, I would like a plain gray subway tile for the backsplash. But, I've had a really hard time finding a gray that I like - everything that I've seen is too brown or too light or too dark. Yesterday I went to our local Ann Sacks showroom and learned about their color match process - for $80 they will match to any Benjamin Moore color. According to the woman who was helping me, many people choose this option. Has anyone done this? Good/bad experience?



clipped on: 10.29.2008 at 04:27 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2008 at 04:27 pm

RE: Electrical being done next week, am i forgetting anything? (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: kimkitchy on 10.23.2008 at 11:34 am in Kitchens Forum

Similar to what farmhousebound said, don't forget the broom closet. An outlet there allows for recharging my ever handy swiffer vac! And for our wall mount TV our electrician got one of those old fashioned recessed clock outlets. It works well and means the TV can be as flush as possible against the wall. Cheers!


clipped on: 10.29.2008 at 04:24 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2008 at 04:25 pm

RE: Electrical being done next week, am i forgetting anything? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: farmhousebound on 10.23.2008 at 11:02 am in Kitchens Forum

We are having electrical pulled right now as well. DH was walking me through last night and we realized that they had not pulled for TV that we will be wall mounting in kitchen. I also have a couple of old clocks that require outlets which are higher up on the walls. If you have a pantry, do you have outlets scheduled for in your pantry? We will be keeping a toaster oven and dust buster in there so DH had a couple of outlets placed for items such as this. If you are going to have a phone w/ an answering machine, might want to know where you are putting so that outlets are placed. Also something to consider, our electrician placed a separate dedicated outlet for microwave. Good luck!


clipped on: 10.29.2008 at 04:24 pm    last updated on: 10.29.2008 at 04:24 pm

RE: Floor under refigerator. (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: glennsfc on 01.13.2008 at 01:31 pm in Flooring Forum

Refrigerators can be floor destroyers!

Place tempered hardboard 'runners' (slats) under the area where the wheels roll. They need to be at least 3" wide and long enough to reach from the back of the fridge to the front edge of the front wheel. The 3/6" thickness of the hardboard will not affect the performance of the refrigerator.

Never move refrigerators out onto any unprotected floor. The refrigerator wheels can leave track marks in soft floors (wood, resilient sheet vinyl, vinyl tile, linoleum) and can potentially damage some harder flooring materials. Simply place a 4' X 5' sheet of 3/16" hardboard flush with the hardboard 'runners' and pull the refrigerator out onto that 'pad' to help prevent damage. The concentrated weight of the refrigerator (in the form of a point load) is then not directly transferred to the flooring.


clipped on: 10.24.2008 at 02:19 pm    last updated on: 10.24.2008 at 02:22 pm