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RE: Where to Buy Vintage-Look Cabinet Hardware? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: solferino on 11.05.2006 at 02:11 am in Kitchens Forum

I was looking for the exact same thing -- so I know right where to find it. We ordered our pulls, handles and latches from House of Antique Hardware. You're looking for item R-08BM-2115. Definitely call them and ask for a volume discount if you're ordering a number of the same item.

Other places to try: VanDykes (you're looking for item 02012704, AntiqueHardware.com (item 002016635). This particular pull was backordered everywhere so we ended up going with something else, but it might suit your schedule.

We bought doorknobs from Knobs and Things -- after another extensive (my husband might call it obsessive) search, I went with Emtek. We ordered porcelain knobs with oil-rubbed bronze plates but the selection is large and you can mix and match the knobs, plates and finishes to suit whatever style. There are three styles of glass knob.

"Price I can live with" is subjective, but they're about $65 each after Knobs and Things' current 10% discount, with free shipping and no tax. Ours arrived Friday and the quality is excellent -- nice and heavy.

Here is a link that might be useful: Satin Nickel Cup Pull

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clipped on: 12.18.2006 at 10:42 am    last updated on: 12.18.2006 at 10:42 am

RE: Lighting help for Kitchen renovation (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: jon1270 on 11.03.2006 at 07:14 am in Kitchens Forum

I realize I'm not in that 'any others' category, but this has slipped to page two again.

Centering the can over the counter edge is as good a target as any, but it's not a critical dimension. You can go a bit further out, if you like.

I'm squinting a bit to read some of the dimensions on the drawing and am starting to think you could stand to have 4 cans on the sink side.

I have photometric data handy for Sylvania's bulb offerings. The most likely candidates look like either 75PAR30/CAP/SPL/FL40 spaced no more than 44" apart, or 75PAR30LN/CAP/SPL/WFL50, spaced no more than 56" apart. The tighter beam on the former would put more light directly onto the counters, making them very bright indeed. The wider beam on the latter bulb would bounce more light off the upper cabinets and tend to fill the room with light.

The 50W alternative would be 50PAR30/HAL/SPL/FL40, which would still give you pretty good light and save you about $50 a year, give or take, on electricity.

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clipped on: 12.04.2006 at 03:38 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2006 at 03:38 pm

RE: Kitchen Lighting (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: jon1270 on 10.10.2006 at 08:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

There are a lot of ways to get the job done, but I like line voltage fixtures rather than low-voltage, for most things. Line-voltage fixtures and dimmers are much cheaper, and the light they produce is generally softer and easier to work with. That said, some people do use low-voltage fixtures for general lighting, but I don't know enough about them to make good recommendations there.

On the line-voltage side of things, I like 5" cans because they let you use PAR30 size bulbs. 4" cans restrict you to PAR20 bulbs, which are smaller and less efficient. You could use 4" cans, but you'd need to space them closer together to get enough light.

To light the perimeter countertops, the most common recommendation around here is to place them over the edges of the counter, or about 26" from the wall. Spacing between them depends on the bulbs you expect to use.

I like halogen PAR bulbs. Halogens last longer than standard incandescent, produce whiter light, and more of it per watt. Some possibile schemes to start with:

50PAR20/HAL/SPL/NFL30 bulbs in 4" cans, spaced about 32" apart.

50PAR30/HAL/SPL/FL40 bulbs in 5" cans, spaced about 44" apart.

75PAR30LN/CAP/SPL/WFL50 bulbs in 5" cans, spaced about 56" apart

Not to mention the fluorescent options, which I think are neat but which I don't know so much about...

Any of those should give you good task lighting at counter level. You don't need to maintain that sort of spacing across the whole ceiling -- just along the counters. The spacings are just targets, too; you'll end up bumping them one way or another to emphasize certain features or to avoid ceiling joists. You'll want some fixtures over the island, too, and probably more around the table to complement the light from the chandelier.

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clipped on: 12.04.2006 at 02:36 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2006 at 02:36 pm