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92% Finished White Kitchen

posted by: wascolette on 01.14.2009 at 01:26 pm in Kitchens Forum

This has been a long time coming (5 years), but I thought I should post these now as it may be much longer before the kitchen is 100% finished. We are using the kitchen now and the remaining things are minor, toe kicks, painting corbels on island, refrigerator panels, glass in cabinets, etc. My wonderful DH who has done the whole house construction almost single handedly (except kitchen cabinets which a friend of ours made w/ DH helping) installed the soapstone. We did have the marble yard mitre the island top edges and install. They did a beautiful job. It's wonderful to actually be using the kitchen after all these years. My range sat in our garage for at least 2 years! Surprisingly, one of my favorite features is the pull out garbage/recyle bins. It's such a simple thing but I really love it.

Cabinets - custom
Cabinet paint - BM Atrium White
Wall paint - BM Barley
Isand paint - P&L Copenhagan blue
Range - Lacanche Cluny
Ventahood
Refrigerator - Kitchenaid
Dishwasher - Kitchenaid
Faucet - Hamat
Sink - Shaw 30"
Counters - Soapstone (Black Minas) www.shadleyssoapstone.com
Island - Calacutta Marble
Backsplash - 3x6 handmade subways from local tile shop
Floors - Kahrs
Stools - Ballard Designs catalog
Pendant Lights - Washington by R.A.M. Lighting
(purchased online at Lighting Universe)
Knobs & Pulls - Amerock Ambrosia in Weathered Nickle

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clipped on: 01.15.2009 at 02:28 am    last updated on: 01.15.2009 at 02:28 am

Can't Believe It's My Turn to Share a Finished Kitchen!

posted by: lleet on 06.16.2008 at 09:44 pm in Kitchens Forum

First of all, THANK YOU to everyone who posted questions and pictures and who answers questions and shared their stories. As a "mostly lurker" I benefited greatly from your conversations. I will certainly try to help others now that Ive been through it, made the mistakes, and learned the lessons.

What started out as a minor upgrade to our 1920 Tudor house turned into a major renovation, and of course the kitchen was the best/worst part of it. Were 95% there the cabinets still need so adjusting and were missing the fridge (its on a truck somewhere) but were just thrilled to be back in our house. So here it is

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(Empty spot is where the fridge will go once it arrives. The panty is to the right if it, although its not in the picture.)

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Thanks again for everything (especially to the marble fans who were so willing to share the good and the bad.)

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clipped on: 01.12.2009 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2009 at 11:16 pm

RE: The ball is officially rolling-- SO excited (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: gglks on 11.22.2008 at 10:08 am in Kitchens Forum

ditto!!!! my kitchen was recently finished and i almost never leave it.....sitting here right now checking out the kitchen forum!

if you can do this, i would recommend your window coming all the way down to the meet the countertop. i can post of pic if you need one. we made that change and it is one of my favorites. you wouldn't believe how much bigger the view feels!!!! actually, i'll post a photo so you can see what i mean....

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good luck!

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clipped on: 11.23.2008 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 11.23.2008 at 09:47 pm

RE: End Grain or Edge Grain for Butcher Block (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: mary_in_nc on 08.15.2008 at 02:35 am in Kitchens Forum

I went with endgrain because it is better for chopping, better for you knives, less likely to show marks. And to me, it is beautiful. I do not find mine busy. My GC made mine for me. My inspiration came from the web. It is endgrain cherry with a walnut trim. Someone mentioned something about the edge falling off? I don't cut on the edge. It's just not the natural place to cut. I chop in the middle. Besides this thing is built to last a long time.
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clipped on: 09.15.2008 at 05:32 am    last updated on: 09.15.2008 at 05:32 am

RE: Stainless Steel Counters (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: rhome410 on 08.09.2008 at 01:13 pm in Kitchens Forum

Remodelfla beat me to answering you! :-) (Thank you again for the nice compliments, E.)

We do love them. You can set hot things on them without a worry. The ss is a great surface to roll out pie crusts or knead bread dough. I often wonder if we should have had them everywhere.

They certainly do scratch and scuff, but I was fully aware that they would and we only laughed when we saw the first scratch in the first few moments they were in. Before we got them, I looked at the paint counter at Home Depot, where they have a SS counter that is very scratched and beat up. I decided I could live with it if ours looked like that, so went ahead. Someone here with stainless counters wrote once that the more scratches and scuffs they get, the more it all blends together and forms a softer, almost glowing surface. I think someone even purposely scrubbed their counters with a somewhat abrasive material just to get them to scratch all over sooner.

I think you can also ask for a brushed finish that might hide more...or be one step ahead on the 'patina.'

I think it was Rococogurl who recommended getting 16 guage steel, but our sheet metal guy thought 18 would be fine. Ours have a couple tiny dings/dents that might not be there if they'd been 16 guage. They don't dim my opinion of the counters, but if I were doing it over, I'd probably want to try 16.

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clipped on: 09.06.2008 at 01:53 pm    last updated on: 09.06.2008 at 01:53 pm

RE: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: debi_2006 on 06.17.2008 at 11:36 am in Kitchens Forum

Look no more...I know exactly what you need. I tested several soft closures before buying the ones I have. Many of them, including the ones someone showed above, don't work well, because they are not heavy duty enough - at least in my experience.

The Blumotion for compact doors are terrific. The specific ones shown work with non-Blum hinges. Very easy to install, and quite frankly, my favorite thing in our new kitchen over anything else, even the granite. I can't speak highly enough about this item, can't you tell!!!

If you purchase 20+ quantity from the link below, they'll give you a discount per item. They did for us last year when we ordered them. They are worth every cent they charge, IMO.

They are heavy duty and you can adjust them.

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Here is a link that might be useful: where to get them

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clipped on: 09.03.2008 at 01:01 pm    last updated on: 09.03.2008 at 01:01 pm

RE: wanted---pics of stainless steel farmhouse sink (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: oskiebabu on 07.02.2008 at 09:42 am in Kitchens Forum

Lansen makes a very beautiful apron ss sink that is far less expensive than most and is thicker gauged than most any at 15 gauge. I think you can buy them in single sink or split sink. They are owned by Karran. They are listed under the Lansen Elite section, as opposed to the less expensive plain Lansen section.

Greg

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clipped on: 08.18.2008 at 03:40 am    last updated on: 08.18.2008 at 03:40 am

RE: Ceasarstone-- what has been your experience? (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: smarge on 08.11.2008 at 05:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

BTW, I should mention that none of my quartz surfaces are honed. My main purpose in buying quartz surfaces was that they are beautiful AND easy care. Adding maintenance due to honing ruled that option out for me.

FWIW, the quartz surfaces are not nearly as shiny as a polished marble or granite would be. The refection of my UC lighting in the kitchen is not as much an issue as I anticipated, and I have no regrets on not having a matte, honed surface.

Here is a pic of my counters if you are interested.

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Here's a close-up

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clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 07:42 pm    last updated on: 08.11.2008 at 07:42 pm

Would these bar stools work?

posted by: redroze on 08.09.2008 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do you think these modern barstools would work in my kitchen? I saw them in person and they were stunning. Tell me if I'm so far off in left field... I want dark chocolate brown so it doesn't take away from the island, but I thought that metal legs would make it feel more open.

Leather and brushed chrome bar stools. They look weird and stretched wider in the photo, they actually are quite minimal in width (17" at the widest part and 14.5" for the seat back) and have a low profile which I like (I think they don't even peek over the counter).

I originally was thinking of something more safe like these leather parsons chairs. But I don't like the idea of them being too brown as our floors and island are brown. I want them to blend but not disappear.

Partially-done kitchen that you've all seen a kajillion times:

Any other barstool (technically counter stool) styles would be much appreciated!

Not sure of the style for our kitchen table yet but we know it will be round. We may do a grey painted antique-looking table. I don't want to do more brown...and glass with a metal base would look nice but feel to formal. Kitchen chairs will be upholstered and all armchairs so they're comfy, in a neutral colour. (By the way, I don't want the island stools and kitchen chairs to be the same, as I don't like matchy-matchy furniture.) Kitchen chairs will be similar to these ones. If we decide to do a pattern on the chair, it will likely be a tone-on-tone fabric rather than this bright punchy orange one - I like the punches of colour to be in the accessories.

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clipped on: 08.11.2008 at 01:20 am    last updated on: 08.11.2008 at 01:20 am

RE: Butcher block island top -- Advice needed!!! (Follow-Up #33)

posted by: thebutcherblocktop on 12.18.2007 at 10:47 am in Kitchens Forum

You can cut on Watco butcher block oil. Its a combination of Mineral oil, boiled linseed and Tung oil. This is the pretty much the base for all mixed butcher block finishes. If you dont require your butcher block to have a counter top finish then the best finish wood of course be pure food grade mineral oil. Watco and Boos mystery oil should never be applied as a top coat. Wipe it on and let it get absorbed into the wood then wipe off the extra. It is really not meant to be built up as a top coat as it will definitely show cut marks if you do. As for straight Tung oil, I would not recommend it as a stand alone finish for something you plan to cut on. Its normally mixed as stated above. When in doubt, food grade mineral oil is the way to go, but if your into looks more than functionality then go with something like Watco or Boos mystery oil. We use Watco on the sides of all our Tables and cutting boards and finish the tops with mineral oil unless requested otherwise.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Butcher Block Top

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clipped on: 08.08.2008 at 08:44 pm    last updated on: 08.08.2008 at 08:44 pm

RE: Size of Dining Room Table (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: dcollie on 02.01.2008 at 09:03 am in Furniture Forum

I do a lot of custom tables for customers, and generally here's what I tell someone who is building a new house and starting from scratch.

First is the dining room size itself. A dining room table should not look crammed into the room but allow for adequate pull-out of the chairs with a minimum of 24" from the table edges for each person to get up from the table.

The table itself should allow 24" linear space for each guest. If you want to seat four people along each side of the table for example (10 seater including the ends) then you need a 96" length table to accommodate that many guests.

As far as width, maximum should be kept at 48", as any more than that guests have to stand up from their chairs to pass food dishes across the table.

If you're on hardwood floors and planning on putting a rug down, plan your table dimensions FIRST and then buy the rug so that it has at least 2' in each direction from the table top size when all the leaves are in.

For a typical 12' x 16' dining room, I usually recommend a 108" x 44" table.

I don't sell contemporary furniture, and stay old school into traditional American designs and in that category nothing beats the flexibility of a classic double pedestal table. It has the least protrusions of any table, and most configuration options. If you do something like this table, the max size on a double is 120" in length as they tend to sag in the middle any larger.

Duane Collie

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clipped on: 08.02.2008 at 02:35 am    last updated on: 08.02.2008 at 02:35 am

RE: No questions, just some update photos (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: redroze on 08.01.2008 at 10:57 pm in Kitchens Forum

Kate - They're from Restoration Hardware. No dangling piece (I think you're seeing a shadow) but I LOVE that look and wish I knew about it before. I can always swap these knobs with fancy dangling ones later down the line!!

Edlakin - Bianco Antico...it has a lot of depth and should add some pizazz...

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clipped on: 08.02.2008 at 01:06 am    last updated on: 08.02.2008 at 01:06 am

My finished kitchen.

posted by: sharb on 05.07.2007 at 10:42 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm sorry it has taken so long for me to post photos of my kitchen. Life has been busy. I just had the house tented for termites this week. My husband is still climbing Mt. Everest and I've been helping babysit for grandchildren. But, I'm loving my kitchen. I don't know if I would go through everything again, but it's over and I love it. If I could do over, there are definitely things I would do differently, but I'm sure no matter how many times I did it, there would be things to improve on.

I want to thank all of you for answering questions that I had. This has been such a great place to share ideas. During a kitchen remodel there is no one else who is as interested as another person doing their own remodel. Thanks. Sharb

Cabinets, perimeter: Premier Custom-Built, Inc. Maple, Beaded inset-1", Door Style-Cambridge 1", Drawer Head style -Cambridge 1", Finish Name: White/GR, Finish family: Cloister
Cabinets, island: Premier Custom-Built, Inc., Wood species: cherry, Door: Beaded inset - 1", Door style-English Cambridge-1", Drawer Head Style: English Cambridge-1", Double pegs on all four corners, Finish Name: Ant. Honey/RU/WM, Finish Family: Colonial Rustic
Knobs and hinges: Gerber ORB
Counter (perimeter): Kashmir Gold Granite
Counter (island): Caesarstone honed Jerusalem Sand
Backsplash: Jerusalem gold
Range: Viking VGSC486-6G Burgundy 48" All Gas with six open burners, 12" wide griddle/simmer plate, double oven, self cleaning, Brass trim, Stainless Steel high shelf,
Range Hood: Burgundy Viking with brass trim.
Refrigerator: 48" Sub-Zero with Top Knobs handles
Sink: Herbeau Fireclay Farm House Sink - White
Faucet, main: Herbeau "Royale" 2 Hole Kitchen Mixer with Wooden Handspray - Finish Weathered Brass
Faucet, Prep Sink: 18" Bates & Bates, Copper, round, hammered
Faucet, prep sink: Herbeau "De Dion" Single Lever Mixer with Wooden Disc Cartridge and Handspray - Finish Weathered Brass
Soap & Lotion Dispenser: Herbeau Weathered Brass
Water Dispenser: Herbeau Weathered Brass
Dishwasher: Miele
Fireplace: Honed Calcutta Marble, custom
Microwave/Convection: Viking
Counter Stools: Ethan Allen
Beverage refrigerator: Viking
Wine refrigerator: Viking
Paint: Benjamin Moore-Rich Cream
Trim paint: BM Custom
Chandeliers: Custom, Uni Lite, Anaheim, CA
Windows: Marvin
Floors: 5" & 7" hand hewn hickory/pecan planks, med-dark finish
Powder Room:
Cabinets: Premier Custom-Built Inc., German glass, milk paint
Hinges and Knobs: Gerber
Faucet: Herbeau with weathered brass finish.
Counter top: Jerusalem Gold
Flooring: King Gold with Calcutta marble keys
Chandelier: Fredrik Ramond
Sink: Kohler

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Photos

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clipped on: 08.01.2008 at 10:30 am    last updated on: 08.01.2008 at 10:30 am

RE: How do you like Marble Countertops? (Follow-Up #28)

posted by: budge1 on 07.27.2008 at 01:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

erikanh, she designed the kitchen herself and doesn't want any duplicates out there. I guess it's just a different take on the pride of a new kitchen. I'm in the "imitation is the greatest form of flattery camp", but she sees it differently and I can understand.

On the butcherblock sealing, waterlox is great, but it is hard to find and not available at all in Canada (and can't be shipped in because of the type of chemicals in it). Lee Valley has a similar product.

We bought some really expensive large, endgrain butcher block cutting boards and found that after a few months they were drying out and warping and cracking. I read here about the mineral oil and bees wax solution. It was really expensive to buy, so I started making my own - extremely simple (melt beeswax(1/3), add mineral oil (2/3), cool). If you add more beeswax, it gets stiffer and harder to apply.We do ours maybe every 2 weeks and they look good as new.

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clipped on: 07.27.2008 at 04:12 pm    last updated on: 07.27.2008 at 04:12 pm

RE: pros and cons of windows that go all the way down to the coun (Follow-Up #16)

posted by: kailleanm on 07.25.2008 at 01:22 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm another fan of the counter height window. We included one in our kitchen reno to replace a leaking aluminum window. The amount of light it brings into the kitchen is wonderful. It's east-facing and makes the kitchen so sunny in the mornings.

Ours is a greenhouse style, so another major advantage is that it has given me extra counterspace behind my cooktop which is VERY handy in a small kitchen (9x10). Ours has two opening windows on the sides to let in a nice cross breeze.

I can just barely reach the cranks and I'm 5'8" so that is a bit of a drawback and cleaning does require me to get on the counter. But I don't do that often enough to make it a bother. ;-)

I really can't believe how much it visually expanded my kitchen space.

Please ignore the trim in the photo, it has not been fully filled/painted yet.

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clipped on: 07.25.2008 at 04:40 pm    last updated on: 07.25.2008 at 04:40 pm

RE: Searching for White Granite / White America Quartzite (Follow-Up #21)

posted by: alku05 on 03.27.2008 at 01:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

I'm the one with the 1"x2" white venatino marble tiles, but I have white granite, not soapstone. The tiles would be awesome with soapstone though!

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marble tile backsplash
clipped on: 07.22.2008 at 07:17 pm    last updated on: 07.22.2008 at 07:18 pm