Clippings by emysue

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HAVE: India Mustard plants & lemon balm

posted by: piksi_hk on 04.08.2008 at 09:41 am in Vegetable Gardening Forum

I have several of these to trade or postage. Thanks.


clipped on: 04.08.2008 at 12:13 pm    last updated on: 04.08.2008 at 12:13 pm

RE: 1920's gardens (Follow-Up #20)

posted by: chinacat_sunflower on 02.06.2004 at 01:03 pm in Garden Restoration Forum

Lee Valley does mostly hardware and woodworking stuff... but they have a collection of reprinted books from the late 19th and early 20th... up through about 1935, I think- and they range from gardening and garden construction (gates fences, gazebos) to planting techniques...

I haven't ordered anything yet, but the LOOK fascinating...

Here is a link that might be useful: lee valley hardware and more


clipped on: 04.26.2007 at 09:30 am    last updated on: 04.26.2007 at 09:30 am

RE: My New Stone Path (Follow-Up #26)

posted by: Jugglerguy on 06.22.2004 at 10:28 pm in Gardening with Stone Forum

Sorry about that. Here's the new and improved link.

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pictures


clipped on: 04.26.2007 at 09:01 am    last updated on: 04.26.2007 at 09:01 am

Tips and Tricks-Milk Jugs

posted by: monte on 01.29.2007 at 11:08 am in Winter Sowing Forum

Milk jugs. Very popular, very useful containers.

From what I've read here some folks have found them to be difficult to keep closed when a door is cut into the side. Tape can come loose, clothespins can pop off and so on.

I also have found it to be cumbersome to evenly sow the seed thru a side opening but that may just be me. What I did find is that by adding a couple of small slits just above the cut line you can use paper clips to secure the door fairly well. If flaps work for you this may be something you can use.

Securing The Door Flaps

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Close Up

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I prefer to open the entire top leaving a small hinge under the handle. This method allows full access. If you are looking for more precision you can use a template to make egg crate dividers that neatly divide the container into individual cells.

The arrangement I prefer is nine cells. In practice it is actually 8 since the one under the handle has somewhat limited head room. Large index cards work well here. I mark out a few with the template and place a marked one on top of a few unmarked ones and cut them as a group. It takes just a few minutes to cut up an entire pack.

9 Cell Flip Top Jugs

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9 Cell Template Components

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Template Close Up

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Hole Punched Corner

At first i was using the paper clip trick to keep the halves closed. This worked but if you wanted to lift the jug it would come free. This meant I would have to keep the jugs in crates or something else if I wanted to move them for watering or whatever. Lots or jugs means lots of crates and my place is crowded enough without needing to store stacks of milk crates.

Then I came up with the idea of using the hole punch to make a pair of holes at each of the corners.

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Then I can use a bit of wire to secure the lid. I found that floral wire was perfect for this. Easily cut and very soft so it is easy to twist. Once secured with the wire you can move the jugs individually eliminating the need for a secondary holder.

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As an aside to making the cell dividers for the milk jugs I found that the same dividers would fit into an ice cream container. again I used the hole punch to ventilate the sides and cut out the lid using some 6 mil poly for a top.

9 Cell Ice Cream Containers

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clipped on: 01.29.2007 at 11:34 am    last updated on: 01.29.2007 at 11:34 am

RE: Hey all! Was just directed here.... (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: gurley157fs on 09.15.2006 at 09:33 pm in Potager Gardens Forum

Hi there, I saw your post in the other forum and you had mentioned wanting to plant a pumpkin. Start from seed as early in the spring as possible. Plan to have your vine take over the WHOLE yard. If you bury pieces of the vine back into the soil it can help provide more nutrients to the farther areas of the vine.
Last but, in my book, most important prevent powdery mildew. In your area, which is similar to mine, just about every thing is susceptible.

This year I tried spraying every other day with chamomile tea. I simply placed the tea bags in a spray bottle and left it in the sun. When I got home from work I gave all a good soaking. This held of the PM for quite a long time. I was growing squash, zucchini, and pumpkin for WAY longer than usual before PM set in. And actually we got so tired of harvesting that I just stopped spraying the plants.

Good luck and welcome to the forum


clipped on: 01.24.2007 at 12:24 pm    last updated on: 01.24.2007 at 12:29 pm

RE: Spray schedule and fruit trees (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: marylandmojo on 04.16.2006 at 12:24 pm in Organic Gardening Forum

texasredhead: Surround is a kaolin clay product--strained super-fine so it's available for use in spray equipment--even inexpensive sprayers for home and garden. It was "discovered" by a USDA fruit research guy (I think his name was Glen Davis), but if you read the links to the site Althea mentions above, you can find the complete story. I'm always happy when something organic comes from the USDA. For many years, organic growers have been suspicious of the USDA, because of their continuing association with chemical companies. Of course with the advent of the NOP (National Organic Program), where the USDA and organic growers have more of an association and involvement with one another--HOPEFULLY (and I'm keeping my fingers crossed, because the USDA still has a strong association with chemical companies through conventional and IPM growers, and they still are heavily and dedicatedly associated with GMO producers), hopefully, some good will come of this for those who wish to see a more Earth-friendly approach to agriculture. And the link to Michael Phillips, posted above, is an excellent one for organic fruit-tree growers. ANY ORGANIC (FRUIT-TREE) GROWER READING THIS POST IS DOING THEMSELVES A DISSERVICE IF THEY DO NOT READ ABOUT MICHAEL PHILLIPS, HIS FARM, AND HIS ONGOING ORGANIC RESEARCH INTO SENSIBLE FRUIT GROWING. He's a voice in the wilderness for fruit tree growers, who have been told for years by chemical heads, that they have to spray poison on fruit trees to get an edible crop. And his information is intended for home growers and small growers--not mega-orchards, owned by conglomerates.


clipped on: 01.09.2007 at 03:42 pm    last updated on: 01.09.2007 at 03:42 pm

RE: Harvesting Black Walnuts (Follow-Up #15)

posted by: poohbear2767 on 09.07.2006 at 04:02 pm in Homesteading Forum

To get the husks off, take a short piece of plastic PVC pipe,
With an OD just a little bigger than the average walnut.
Mount the pipe vertically such as in a vice or something.
Place walnut with husk on top of the pipe and hit it with a hammer.
The nut will go thru the pipe, the husk will fall off.
Let the kids do this. They will love it.

Pooh Bear


Hmmm...worth a try?
clipped on: 12.18.2006 at 09:21 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2006 at 09:21 pm

RE: Want apples, but totally clueless... (Follow-Up #9)

posted by: hemnancy on 05.24.2006 at 11:36 pm in Fruit & Orchards Forum

Standby, there are different kinds of gardeners just as there are different varieties of trees. I don't spray ANYTHING and get lots of nice apples anyway. I second the vote for Liberty. Not only is it a no-spray tree (liberty from spraying and disease), but hard enough not to be bothered much by codling moths, and also fantastically fertile, setting fruit 2 years here when it rained all the time the apples were blooming and other people growing other varieties got NO fruit. Liberty is like Ein Sheimer I used to grow in San Diego, the smallest green fruits still cook into wonderful aromatic applesauce. It is a don't-miss variety.

My other favorites are Freedom and William's Pride which is an early red apple in the PR series. It seems to set fruit so early the codling moths haven't laid their eggs yet and it rarely has any worm damage. They also set fruit in bad years. By the way, compared to peaches, plums, and cherries, apples are much longer-lived trees with fewer diseases. I can't say I have any disease problems at all and also no worm damage on my pears, though.


Remember the Liberty; perhaps a good choice for an apple tree for the yard?
clipped on: 12.18.2006 at 09:09 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2006 at 09:10 pm