Everyone has their own way to do this, which is better.
But! I like to cook and bake using easier ways,
long as the end results are the same.

I've used this recipe since I got out of the Army, a very long time ago
and converted it from Army Baking (Large amounts)to Home Baking.
It wasn't easy going from 4 Quarts to 4 cups , etc.
But I worked it out.

I got the results that I wanted and I'm passing it on to
everyone.

Here is the recipe:

Luigi’s - - - Braided, Plaited Bread or Dough for Cinnamon Buns Etc.

2 cups of milk, (warm ) - - Sometimes I sub Powdered Milk
1 1/3 cup of Sugar
3 large eggs- beaten (save ½ egg w. a little milk for basting )
1 teasp.+ of Vanilla - -
½ cup + of oil - -
½ teasp. Salt
2 packs of Fleischmans Active dry yeast
AP Flour - 3 cups to start ( probably about 6 total
enough to knead into a soft ball that doesn’t stick to your hands.
I now substitute a cup of WW Flour. I makes it more tender.

Stir the yeast in a 1/3 cup of warm water w. ½ spoon of sugar, to test it for raising.

In a large mixing bowl, or (KA mixer) place the warm the milk ( not hot )
add the sugar ,vanilla , salt & eggs
Beat until the sugar is dissolved and add the Yeast and mix well.
Add 1 cup of WW flour and 3 cups of AP flour and mix with mixer a few minutes.
Add flour until you make a soft Ball of dough that doesn’t stick to your hands.
Don’t make it stiff , try to keep it a "soft dough."
On the Work Top, Sprinkle some flour under the ball and Knead it until smooth.
Place it in a large bowl, Rub some oil on top.
Cover with a damp towel and place in a warm spot until double.
I usually turn my oven on for a few minutes to warm and shut it.
Place a pan of hot water on the bottom shelf.
Then place the dough bowl in the oven to rise.

When doubled deflate and put it out of the bowl onto a floured worktop.

Punch it down and knead the dough again. Then cut into 2 pieces ( 2 loaves ).
Divide each piece into 3. Roll each of these 3 pieces into the shape
of a sweet potato ( about 12 in long ).
With the basting ( egg ) mixture and wet the tips of the 3 pieces
and stick them together at one end .

Then spread the other end the shape of an arrow <-.
While keeping the stuck ends down and away from you ,
twist each piece clockwise about 8 times and
lay them down so you can Platt or Braid them and
stick the other ends together
There are other ways to Braid ( 6 Strands ) but I take the fast easy way to do things.

Place the 2 shaped loaves on lightly oiled cookie tins, or loaf pans.
Preheat the oven to 400 deg.
Spray some Pam on the loaves or brush with oil. This will keep them from drying while raising.
When doubled in size (about 20 min.) place in the oven , top shelf and bake until slightly tan.
Baste them with the egg mix and rotate them back into the oven and
( Turn temperature down to 325 deg.)
Baste again when they are a dark tan. Cook till a rich brown, mahogany color.
Take them out of the pans onto a rack to cool. Control yourself !!!! Let them cool !!!

This sounds like a lot to do but it is easy and should take only 10 minutes to mix and shape.
The most time is in the waiting for the dough to rise and for the bread to cool .
But it do look great !!! & Professional

This dough can also be used for Cinnamon Buns .
I use it for Bagels too. I like the Hardly Noticeable, sweet taste.

Pizza Sauce and Spaghetti Sauce ( Gravy )
I used Pizza Sauce, which is crushed Tomatoes and Puree, with Basil.
You can use canned tomatoes but make sure they are Italian or a deep red color. Some choices are Contadina , Red Pack , Hunt’s , All Red, = Tutto Rosso.
A lot of others are sort of orange, red color.
.
Try 1 large can of crushed tomatoes and 1 can of tomatoe Puree.
You have to spice to your own taste. I use only Powdered Spices now.
And get the same results. Saves a lot of time.

Start with 3/4 teaspoon of garlic pwd.
(add more later to taste)
1 tablespn. of onion powder. 1 teasp. Salt.
3 teasp. Sugar ( add more if it tastes too acidy ).
An Italian pinch of pwd.cloves.
3/4 teasp. Oregano ( or to taste ) it is strong.
1 teaspoon of Parsley,
1/2 teasp. basil.
1/4 teasp. black pepper.
½ teaspoon + of ( Chicken flavored Soup Base )
Large handful of Parmasan Cheese, after cooking about 1/2 hour. Add water if it is too thick.

Continue for Spaghetti Sauce

This recipe can be used for Spagetti Sauce ( maybe you would want to cut down on the Oregano ) also just add a can of Tomatoe Paste and water to thin a little , if it is too thick it will burn easily. It will thicken as it cooks.
½ cup of fine chopped Onion.
And 3 bay leaves . Don't forget the Chicken flavored Soup Base. Add uncooked Meatballs, Sausage and Chicken Thighs, when you start cooking. (cook at least 1 ½ to 2 hours ) Take the chicken out when it is done. ( About 1 hour ) Add the Parmasan Cheese after the sauce is cooked & stir
ALSO !!! season to your own taste. Add more or less of what you like. if you can let it cool and skim the fat off the top.
I bake 50 meatballs for about 15 minutes and freeze them,
to keep on hand.
Some will frown at putting the uncooked meats in the sauce
but I wouldn't tell anyone this, if I didn't do it for years.
LOU

Lou’s Pizza Sauce and Spaghetti Sauce ( Gravy )

I use canned tomatoes but make sure they are Italian or a red color. Some choices are Contadina , Red Pack , Hunt’s , All Red, = Tutto Rosso, Chento

If you use all fresh Tomatoes ,I add some Tomatoe Paste.

Pizza Sauce

1 Large can of Tomato Puree and Crushed Tomatoes or just Crushed Tomato’s
I use all Powdered Spices now, and get the same results
1 level teaspoon Garlic Powder ( add more later to taste )
1 tablespn. of Onion powder.
1 teasp. Salt. or to taste
3 teasp. Sugar ( add more if it tastes too acidy ).
An Italian pinch of pwd.cloves.
3/4 teasp. Oregano ( or to taste ) if it is strong.
1 teaspoon of Parsley,
1/2 teasp. Basil.
1/4 teasp. black pepper.
½ teaspoon + of ( Chicken flavored Soup Base )
Simmer for about ½ hour or use without cooking.
Large handful of Parmasan Cheese, when done , after 1/2 hour.
- - - - - - - - - -
Continue for SPAGHETTI SAUCE

This recipe can be used for Spagetti Sauce , just add a can of Tomatoe Paste ,
with water to thin a little ,.if the Sauce too thick to start it will burn easily.
It will thicken as it cooks.

Add to the Pizza Sauce:

½ cup of fine chopped Onion.
And 3 bay leaves .
Don't forget the Chicken flavored Soup Base.
I add uncooked Meatballs, couple at a time or ,
( I bake about 3 dozen meatballs and freeze them )

Sausage and Chicken Thighs, when you start cooking.
(cook at least 1 ½ to 2 hours )Take the chicken out when it is done.
( About 1 ¼ hours )
Add the Parmasan Cheese " after " the sauce is cooked & stir
ALSO !!! season to your own taste. Add more or less of what you like.

Chicken Adobo
1 small sweet onion, sliced
8 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup vinegar
1 (3 pound) whole chicken, cut into pieces
1.Place chicken in a slow cooker. In a small bowl mix the onion, garlic, soy sauce, and vinegar, and pour over the chicken.

2. Cook on Low for 6 to 8 hours.

Try add some ginger, brown sugar and increase liquid volume using water

And right now as we speak, I have 10 pounds of sliced onions and 2 Tbsp of oil caramelizing for French Onion soup tomorrow night

Mine are in a 18" wide by 30" deep draw next to the cooktop and under the baking area. I store all my spices and seasoning except for salt and pepper in this draw. I used 3 oz glass bottles ordered from www.specialtybottle.com and labeled them with my labeler.

15 minutes preparation, 8 hours cooking

2 boneless skinless chicken breast halves
2 (15oz.) cans black beans
2 (15 oz.) cans Rotel tomatoes with chilies .
1 (14.5 oz.) can tomato sauce
1 (4 oz.) can chopped green chilies .
1 cup salsa, your preference as to strength (I use medium)
1 can Niblets corn
Rinse chicken and set aside. Without draining, place beans, tomatoes, tomato sauce, chilies and salsa in crockpot and stir until mixed. Submerge chicken in the mixture. Cook on low for 8 hours. Remove chicken from crockpot and shred with two forks. Return chicken to pot and stir in corn. Heat 10 -15 minutes, or just long enough to get corn and chicken hot. Serve topped with crushed tortilla chips, shredded cheese, and a dollop of sour cream.

Using the Rotel tomatoes with chilies will produce a slightly spicy soup – for a less spicy soup, use regular diced tomatoes and mild salsa. This recipe freezes well – it’s like money in the bank! Enjoy! :o).

The ratatouille recipe is:
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion - diced
1 large garlic clove
2 large green peppers - cut in 1 inch chucks
3 medium zucchini - cut in 1 inch slices
1/2 cup water
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon sugar
4 large tomatoes - wedged

Cook onion & garlic in part of the oil. Add green pepper and cook 5 minutes. Add zucchini, water, salt, oregano, and sugar. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cook 20 minutes. Add tomatoes and rest of olive oil. Cook for 10 minutes

The Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) pages contain helpful information about how to navigate this site as well as the world of kitchen renovations.

The Kitchen Forum Acronyms will help you understand some of the acronyms used frequently in posts.

The Finished Kitchens Blog has pictures and information about many GW members' finished kitchens. Not only can you see them alphabetically, but there is also a category list if you're looking for specific things like a kitchen w/a Beverage Center or a kitchen w/a mix of dark and light cabinets.

The Appliances Forum is very useful when you have questions specific to appliances.

To start off the process...take the Sweeby Test. Then, move on to Beginning a Kitchen Plan.

Other topics such as planning for storage can be found by doing a search on the forum.

Tips:

• Before posting a question, search the forum. There's a very good chance someone has already asked the question.


• When using the "search" function, be sure to use the search box on the bottom of the page, not the top!


• In the Subject, the site changes the inches indicator (") to a foot indicator ('). We don't know why. To compensate, use two single qoutes and it will appear as a double quote in the Subject. Luckily, the double quote works in the message box.


• When composing a new thread, you have a couple of options:


• Have replies emailed to you: check the box offerring this option. However, you must have "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." box checked in your profile for this to work (see the "Your Profile" link at the very top of the page)


• Insert a link: When you "preview" your message, you will be provided with two boxes for a link...one is for the link itself and the second is for the name or description of the link.


• When using the "Clip this post" option (far upper right corner of each post, small print), remember that only the current post is clipped, not the entire thread. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 50 clippings. Once you reach this max, you will no longer be able to clip or email posts.

How are the home page and the Forum organized? (from the FAQs)

The Kitchens Forum home page lists 30 thread titles, starting with those that don't yet have a response. Then threads are listed in order of most recent response. That first page displays the last 2 hours or so of activity. (If there is no response to a thread in an hour or two, an unanswered thread starts to drop down.)

Below that are page numbers 1-67 for the total 67 pages of threads available -- capturing maybe 2 months or so of threads, less when the Forum is busy.

Below that (and at the top of the thread list) is a space for you to switch to the Conversations or Gallery "sides" - these are set up similarly but not nearly as active. Conversations and Gallery.

Next down is a Search button -- very important!

Next is a place for you to start a new thread. And finally are some instructions and links at the bottom.

Kitchen Forum "Sides"

Discussions: This is the "side" you are on. It's for on-topic discussions concerning kitchens...renovations, use of, etc.
Conversations: This is the "side" where you can post off topic threads such as regional get-togthers and non-kitchen subjects.
Gallery: This is the "side" where members often post pictures...especially if you're posting a lot or a finished kitchen.

Posting a link

There are two ways to post a link:

Using the provided boxes below the "Message" box:

1. Insert the link in the Optional Link URL box


2. Type in the description or name of the item being linked int the Name of the Link box


3. If this is a new Post, then you won't see these two boxes until you "preview" your message.

To insert a link inside the "Message" box,

1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want it:
   <a href= http://www.XXX/>Description</a>
2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/ with your link


3. Now, replace the Description with the description (words) you want displayed with your link.

With either method, you will see your link when you "preview" your message

Posting a picture from your photo hosting account (e.g., PhotoBucket)

FAQ: Adding Pictures and Links [Note: If using PhotoBucket, copy the code from the line/box labeled "HTML Code"]

Posting a picture from somewhere other than your Photo hosting account

1. Copy the following into the "Message" box where you want the picture to be:
   <img src="http://www.XXX/image.jpg">
2. Next, replace the http://www.XXX/image.jpg with the address of the image.


3. When you "preview" the message, you should see the picture

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Layout Help

We often get requests to help with layouts. Many of us enjoy doing this but it would help if you can post a copy of your layout, preferably to-scale.

• The best place to start is to draw up your kitchen (to scale, if possible) either without cabinets & appliances if you don't know where to start or w/your proposed new layout if you have something to start with. Regardless, measure and label everything...walls, ceiling height, widths of doors & windows, distances between windows, walls, doorways, etc.
• If you cannot move plumbing or gas, mark them on your drawing as well.
• Mark all doorways & windows (w/dimensions) and label them as to where they lead. If they're actual doors, mark how they swing.
• It also would be helpful to see the connecting rooms, even layouts so you see how they interact with the kitchen and/or extend the kitchen feel and flow.
• Make note of traffic flows in and out of the kitchen

Make a list of things like:

• What are your goals? E.g., more counter space, more storage, seating in the kitchen (island? peninsula? table?), etc.
• Do you plan to merge two rooms/areas (e.g., Nook and Kitchen into a Kitchen only)
• Where are you flexible?
• Can windows or doorways change size?
• Can they be moved?
• Can windows be raised/lowered?
• Can any walls come down?
• Does the sink have to be centered under a window?
• Does it have to be under a window at all?
• Do you bake? Do you want a coffee/tea/beverage center?
• What appliances do you plan on having (helps to figure out work flow, work zones, and types of cabinets...upper/lower vs full height, etc.)
• Range or Cooktop?
• Single or Double or no Wall Oven?
• Warming Drawer?
• MW? (Advantium, drawer, OTR, countertop, built-in, shelf?)
• DW? Standard or drawers? If drawers, 1 or 2?
• Refrigerator CD or standard depth?
• Vent Hood?
• Other?
Sizes of desired appliances (e.g., 30" or 36" or 48" cooktop; 36" or 42" or 48" wide or other Refrigerator? Counter depth or standard depth refrigerator, etc.)
• Pantry: Walk-in or cabinets?

***** Very Important *****

Is there anything you:

• Can't live without?
• Definitely don't want?
• Would like if you can find a way?

This information will be valuable to not only you, but also any Kitchen Designers you may hire or talk to. Additionally, if you've been haunting the site, you'll notice that we also help with almost all aspects of the remodel, including layout help.

If you do ask for help, then all of the above information will help us help you. Sometimes we stray from what you think you want to give you some ideas that you might not have thought of, but it's your kitchen and you can veto anything...we may argue for something (we're good at that!), but in the end it's what you want. And remember, we are just giving you ideas and possible layouts, in the end when you finalize your design it's whatever you want and decide on! After all, this is your kitchen! [Keep this in mind if/when you use a Kitchen Designer--it's your kitchen, not his or hers...don't let them talk you into anything unless you're sure it's what you want!]

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

When your kitchen is complete, please submit it to the Finished Kitchens Blog! This way your kitchen will join others in inspiring and helping newcomers!

Add your kitchen to the FKB!

Again, welcome and good luck! The journey is wild, sometimes bumpy, but fun!

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Links from above:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ): http://kitchenforumfaq.com/
Kitchen Forum Acronyms: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/forum-acronyms/
Finished Kitchens Blog: http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/

Sweeby Test: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/2007/07/31/the-sweeby-test/#more-6
Beginning a Kitchen Plan: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/2007/08/03/beginning-a-kitchen-plan/#more-34/

Appliances Forum: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/appl/

FAQ: Adding Pictures and Links: http://starpoohonline.com/wordpress/how-to-use-the-kitchen-forum/adding-pictures-and-links/

Add your kitchen to the FKB!: http://finishedkitchens.blogspot.com/2005/10/faq.html#Adding

Limoncello
from BH&G "Italian"

10 large lemons
1 750ml bottle of good vodka
3 c sugar
2-1/2 c water

Scrub lemons well. Using a vegetable peeler, carefully remove enough of the yellow peel to make 2 cups. (Juice lemons and save juice for another use).

In large glass pitcher or bowl, combine the lemon peel and the vodka. Cover tightly and let stand in a cool place for 10 days, gently swirling the mixture in the container ach day. At the end of 10 days, strain mixture through a fine mesh sieve, discard the lemon peel. Return the lemon-infused vodka to the pitcher.

For syrup: In medium saucepan, combibe sugar and water. Bring just to boiling, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cool to room temperature. Pour syrup into infused odka, stir to combine. Cover and chill overnight before serving.
Pour into clean bottles with lids and store in refrigerator up to one month.

My changes: I added 1-2 cups of the reserved lemon juice to the final product to give it a more lemony flavor. One could also make the simple syrup by substituting lemon juice for the water, I would think.

Linda

In my Pizza place I bought Bread flour and one pound packs of Yeast.

Now I use a different recipe, AP flour and some WW Flour,
with Active Dry Yeast

The difference in time is negligible ( for me ).

I make Prebaked Dough and freeze or use it fresh.

You can Google : " Lou-s Pizza Dough " and go down to the, Garden Web Post, To get more info.

************************************
Here is my recipe.

An alterative to baking on a stone is to use pans.

A 12 inch round pizza will take from 8 to 12 ounces of dough. According to thickness you want. After the dough is made weigh it out and roll into balls. Oil the pans and place a dough ball in the pan , smooth side up and flatten slightly, working the dough towards the side of the pan, with the palms.
Then let it rest a few minutes. Repeat this every so often until the dough reaches the side and up, enough for a crust about one half inch. Let it raise slightly , pinch the dough all over, with a fork and put into the oven to bake at 400 deg. If it bubbles while baking pinch it with a fork again. When light tan specks show ,take them out onto a rack to cool fast. Then you can use them right away or freeze , to use later.

When baking the Pizza, place the Pre Baked dough back in the oiled pan ,
Or cook on your Stone.

Put a latel of sauce on the dough and swish it around, sprinkle some Parmesan or Romano , put it in the oven for a few minutes. Take it out and spread the topping of your choice and the Cheese Topping. A good topping cheese is a mixture of Mozzarella and Provolone chopped and mixed. The provolone gives it a good flavor and doesn't get like rubber when it cools.

I use all Provolone. A little trick for baking. Keep a cup of water and brush handy, to baste parts that are cooking too fast. If you can get new metal pans, (uncoated) they have to be cured in the oven, so they won't stick. Coat them with oil and bake them for at least 6 hours. Never clean them with soap and water. Just rinse with water & wipe with a paper towel.

Dough recipe:
1 cup of warm water (not hot)
1 Package of Active Dry yeast 1 tablesp sugar ,in a half cup of warm water
Quarter Cup of Veg. Oil
1 teasp.Salt
About 3 1/2 cups Flour
half cup of Whole Wheat flour or up to 1 cup
Place in a mixing bowl, the Water, 1 cup of flour, wheat flour , yeast if risen
Add the oil and salt and more flour.
Add enough flour to make a soft ball of dough, that doesn't stick to your hands.
Knead until smooth. Put it back in the bowl , Smooth side up and Rub on some Veg. Oil
Cover and set in a warm place to rise until it doubles in bulk.
I put it in a warm oven, Covered with a damp towel. Place a pan of hot water on the bottom shelf
It will rise in about 1 hour.
When doubled, punch it down and knead it well.
Divide into Balls , about 11 to 12 ounces and place in oiled pans. 12" round
Dough should be about three sixteenth thick on the bottom and about half inch around the edge.
For Sicilian Pizza , I used most of the dough in a 11" X 16" pan
Follow the previous instructions.
Good luck, Lou

While I haven't had a chance to try it yet, I wanted to share as I know many of you have enjoyed the No-Knead Breads.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
No-Knead Pizza Crust

We add Hi-maize fiber to up the fiber in this pizza "invisibly;" no one will ever know they're eating a high-fiber pizza. But leave it out if you like, substituting bread flour for the 1/2 cup of Hi-maize.

Finally, this is not your typical thin-crisp or soft-chewy crust. It's somewhere in between; thin in spots, thicker in others, with crackly-hard edges and lots of chew. this is definitely crust you have to "grip and rip;" an adult-type crust, probably not suitable for little kids.

Crust
2 1/2 cups King Arthur Bread Flour
1/2 cup Hi-maize Fiber
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 cups water, barely lukewarm (about 78�F)

Toppings
your favorite pizza toppings

Directions
1) Combine all of the dough ingredients in a large bowl, stirring just to combine. The dough will be very loose and sticky, almost like cottage cheese in texture.
2) Cover the bowl and let the dough rest at cool room temperature (preferably not above 72�F) overnight, anywhere from 12 to 24 hours. We prefer a rest of about 16 hours. The dough will rise and develop lots of bubbles.
3) Heavily flour a silicone kneading mat or clean work surface, and pour/scoop the dough out of the bowl. Sprinkle more flour on top. Turn the dough over on itself a few times; a bowl scraper or spatula is a help here. Start preheating the oven to 450�F. If you have a pizza stone, put it on the middle shelf of the oven.
4) Divide the dough in half. Cut a sheet of parchment in half; you should have two pieces of parchment, each about 8" x 12".
5) Gently pat each piece of dough into an oval about 1/4" (or less) thick, right on the parchment. You may also choose to leave the dough in one piece, and pat it into a large (14" to 16") circle, but the larger size makes it more difficult to move around. If you're not using a pizza stone, slide the pizza crusts, with their parchment, onto a baking sheet.
6) Spray the crusts with water. Bake them in a preheated 450�F oven for about 12 minutes on a pizza stone, or about 16 minutes on a baking sheet. If the crusts puff up, prick them with a cake tester or toothpick. Remove them from the oven when they're just beginning to brown on top.
7) Add toppings. They should be pre-cooked; e.g., no raw meat, no crunchy onions, etc. We like to lay down a bed of cheese first, then toppings, then more cheese.
8) Bake for an additional 4 to 8 minutes, or until the toppings are hot and the cheese is melted.
9) Serve immediately.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I'll paste the link below to the site with the recipe

Nancy

Here is a link that might be useful: King Arthur Flour

4 cups flour (if you want part WW, use 2 of white and start with 1 1/2 of WW, adding more white to the dough as needed)
1/2 tsp each salt and peppper
1 TBL yeast mixed into
1 1/4 cup warm water
1/4 cup olive oil added to the water after the yeast dissolves.

Pour liquid ingredients into dry. Mix well and knead. Let rise. Makes two large pizzas. (The dough can be frozed after it rises for another pizza another day)

A tip I read a couple of years ago that makes all the difference: Knead the dough and by all means roll out the dough on a surface that you have spread a little oil on, not flour.

And guess what? I saved this for when I get mine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Beeswax Oil At Reasonable Prices

Compressing or Resizing on your computer is much faster to upload the photos to Photobucket and you wouldn't need to use Photobucket to do it one by one. You can skip step 4 and be ready for step 5.

Here's how... Open 1 of your photo in MS Office Picture Manager. Once opened, use the thumbnail icon (4 squares icon) at the top left side, right below the menu, to enable to see all the photos in that same folder.

Select all the photos you want to compress by holding the CTRL key (or Shift if they're in a sequence row) and click on the photo.

At the top menu, select Picture and then, "Compress pictures". On the right side, a menu will pop up. You will have 3 selections of sizes to compress: Documents, Web pages and E-mails. Chose one, you will see the file size it becomes at the bottom of that pop up menu. Once choose the desired size, select OK and do a "Save All" under the File menu (top left of screen) and voila... you're done!

Be awared that once you do a Save ALL, it will overide your original photos size. It's best to create a new folder and copy the photos to the new folder so you don't override your original photos.

Also, with 1 photo, play around with the different compress sizes to familiarize before doing a batch of photos. If you don't like a size, you can "undo" and reselect another size.

Do the same if you'd like to resize. "Resize" is also under the "Pictures" menu. On the right side pop up menu, select a size in the "Predefined width x height" selections; or, you may chose to use the 2 options below it. Again, once you've chosen the size, click OK and do a Save All.

Now that you've saved sometimes, you can spend more times on this forum! Have fun!

Here is a link that might be useful: saddle stools

My spice drawer is a standard top drawer (Brookhaven framelss cabinets -- some will vary in dimentsions). It is in a 24" wide cabinet and it holds 110 spice jars (or the equivalent) on a cushioned no-slip liner. Everything is labeled on the lid and alphabetized. DH put some things in by catergories initially, but I found I was looking for them alphabetically. Now I am relearning where a few of the most used have been relocated, but it really works great. If you don't have full-extension glides, I don't think you could use the last row or two inthe back.

I got my bottles at specialtybottle.com. I've ordered from them on other projects too, and they were recommended by other kitchen nuts who had used them. Very easy to deal with, great prices and good results. My bottle is this one

http://www.specialtybottle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=159

Look around the site -- you might like a different size or the tins with the clear tops (I needed too many to fit those in my space). I loved the test tibes I saw pictureed by others here, but my needs call for something I can quickly open and stick a spoon into the jar. These jars have a nice, wide top that my measuring spoons work easily with. Now a pop top lid would be even faster, but I can work with these. ; )

I've added a link to the photo of my drawer below. If you click on the previous photo, you can see the close up with labels. My cabinet designer took some leftover bottles and is going to set up a display with the spice jars in her new display kitchen. She is going to use a divider and put utensils or hot pads on the other side.

Hope that helps.

Here is a link that might be useful: spice drawer

Laticrete Silver Shadow or Light Pewter

Hydroment Mobe Pearl

Custom Building Products Platinum

Mapei Warm Bray

I just decided today that I want to consider repainting my kitchen during the remodel. Previously it was painted a darkish green color. This was from an overall color palette that I used for the whole ground floor living space. However, I am not sure I want to keep it now that I am remodeling the kitchen. I would like to consider painting it red this time around.

The kitchen will have bittersweet chocolate painted/stained cabinets in Oak with brushed stainless pull knobs. It will have a white Silestone/Zodiaq countertop. We will have mostly stainless appliances with some black showing. We are going to put in stainless backsplashes. The sink will be stainless with chrome faucets. The trim is all white. The floor is honey stained white oak.

Here are some pictures of the kitchen before the remodel: (the entire kitchen layout will be changed)

Here is a recent picture of the living room that shares a wall with the dining room. (We are going to redo the mantle and recover the fireplace.) Some of the artwork has red accents.

Here is a view of the dining room from the living room:

Here is the dining room table:

Here is the artwork in the dining room which does have red in it.

Here is a picture borrowed from a GW forum member whose DIY I am going to follow to stain the cabinets:

Please tell me what you think. If you have any specific brands or colors of red paint, please suggest them. Let me know what you think is the best paint finish for a kitchen be it semi-gloss, matte, etc.

Thank you.

The color of the living room is #8112 and called Dried Fava. I thought it was going to be a tan color but it definitely turned out to be a mellow greenish color. I actually LOVE it. Very soothing.

If you meant the hallway color, that is off the same card and is called Beryl #8240. It is a VERY light blueish green color. It is really nice because it lights up the hallway in the morning and really reflects the light to make it almost reminiscent of a swimming pool in the summer.

The kitchen green color is called Sea of Grass and is #8217 from the same color palette. In person it looks exactly like a ripe speckled green pear. We held one up to the wall and it blended right in. I like the color but feel like I want to go in a different direction though.

The picture frames in the dining room are from IKEA and have been painted in the 4 other colors from the palette besides Dried Fava which they are mounted to.

It's best to identify the pest and take the time to learn that there is not a "cure all" for every pest at every stage of it's life cycle. Some won't work if it's going to rain. Some don't work well if it's too hot, etc.

Pest management is complex, if you want to learn, a good place to start is here:

Integrated Pest Management
This lecture is presented in two parts. Each part is 90-minutes in length. Recorded in Sacramento County in California's Sacramento Valley, this lecture is by Mary Louise Flint, Ph.D., Director, IPM Education and Publications, UC Statewide IPM Project and Extension Entomologist & Cooperative Extension Specialist.

Education:
B.S. Plant Science, University of California, Davis
Ph.D. Entomology, University of California, Berkeley

Appointment:
100% Cooperative Extension

Research Interests:
Integrated pest management of landscape, agricultural and garden pests; biological control of arthropod pests; alternatives to pesticides; adoption of alternative practices by practitioners; innovative delivery of pest management information.

Topics discussed in the Integrated Pest Management Lecture:

* IPM references and resources
* Preventing pest problems
* Natural common enemies
* Making less toxic pesticide choices
* Controlling aphids, scales, caterpillars, coddling moths, tree borers, snails and slugs, and lawn insects.

You can watch the programs now online:

Just make sure you have Real Player installed or download it free.

Integrated Pest Management Part 1 90 minutes

Integrated Pest Management Part 2 90 minutes

You'll want to bookmark the following link to Professor Flint's Lab Research on:
Controlling Pests in Gardens and Landscapes: Vegetables and Melons

I promise you'll learn one or two things to put in your gardening bag of pest management arsenals.

;)

Anney, if I were to use the cover crop, I would sow it about 6 to 8 weeks before planting, correct? Or would I sow it in the fall after I harvest the last of the vegetables and pull up the stalks?

Since you're in zone 6, I'd plant a cover crop (called green manure) among your veggies 4-6 weeks before the first frost, (not 8 weeks before -- you don't want to smother your produce!), primarily so it has time to germinate and grow some before frost kills your tender veggies, like tomatoes, beans, peppers, etc. Then the cover crops can take over the bed. Most are intended to grow in cool spring or fall weather, so they'll bear a little frost but won't survive extended hard freezes.

I am Emmie, a poster on the kitchen and rose forums. I have heard lovely things about this forum, and I've been reading here a little bit from time to time!

I have a large yard in a suburb northwest of Boston, nad I would love to fill it with flowers. However, I am a horrible planner! Also, I work on a pretty tight budget, and have to convince my DH that all of this is a good idea. I keep telling him "less mowing", but he hears "more weeding!" We are both 38 years old, but we have a lot of home projects, and I have some back problems. Things move slowly.

I am posting my photobucket link below. I would love to hear ideas about what I could do with this big empty expanse, and how to fill in and around my roses. I simply don't know where to start! I see gardens and say "yes!", but they all start from somewhere, and THAT is what I cannot figure out. How do I get this little bundle of green twigs to grow into a beautiful bunch of flowers and greenery? (Patience, I know....but I get so confused!)

In any case, if you are willing to look and give some suggestions, I would love to have input! This is a learning situation for me, so I will ask lots of questions. I would love to learn from all of you, and I hope at some point I can give something back! In fact, I can share my old lilac rejuvination stories with you, if anyone is interested.

The whole property is about 1/4 of an acre. We have the lot behind our house, so we go back to the street behind us. When looking at the back of the house, the windows to the right are the kitchen. Those will be larger within a few months, as we are remodeling. My DH is deathly afraid of bees, and he really wants to keep any flowering plants away from the back of the garage. (That is the small white structure on the left in the photos.) I would love to get rid of the maple in the smack dab middle, but that could take a while. When looking from the end of the yard, east is to the right, over the neighbor's house. The tall fence to the left now blocks some of the evening west sun.

I am starting to "lasagna" the previous veggie bed, which has done so-so since we started it 7 years ago, despite amending it annually with composted manure from HD and adding Osmocote every year. Maybe I will not plant there this year? I love herbs, and would love a patch for them exclusively.

We have sandy soil. We were told it is a lot of landfill from excavating the Callahan Tunnel in Boston. However, we have access to a tiller and Freecycle brings us lots of free composted things like manure! I want to put more roses and perrenials in along the tall fence, and even more along the chainlink. However, what? How many? What shaped beds? And what do I do with the darned expanse of lawn that the PO used as a melon bed, barbeque station, and horseshoe pit?

Would anyone mind helping me get started, please?

Thanks in advance,
Emmie

Here is a link that might be useful: Emmie's yard and started gardens.

Rotation Considerations: Avoid following potatoes, peppers & eggplant;
Good Companions: asparagus, basil, bush bean, cabbage family, carrot, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, pot marigold;
Bad Companions: pole bean, fennel, dill, potato

For peppers, it says...

Rotation Considerations: Do not follow with tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes;
Good Companions: carrot, onion, parsnip, pea;
Bad Companions: fennel, kohlrabi

Hope this helps some. Good luck.

Just rotate the following families:

Legumes - Beans, peas

Solanaceous - Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant

Cucurbits - Cucumber, melons, squash

Tuberous/Alliums - Onions, carrots, beets, garlic, leeks, shallots

Cole/Brassica - Broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, lettuce, spinach, radishes, rutabagas, cabbage, and Brussels sprouts

Soil is clay and prairie silt plus roughly 15% sand.

Nutrient replacement is via 2" of compost based on shredded maple and oak leaves, or 4" of non-composted same mix. When used first as mulch, what's left is worked in when the potatoes are dug.

Planting is done in 8" x 8" trenches. Inch or so of compost and inch of soil below the seed piece. Backfilled with mix of soil and shredded Christmas tree boughs.

Watering is done on the soil surface, between rows, by low-pressure hose or 5-gallon pail.

Martin

Make little lists of the plants you've ordered, sorting by when they bloom WHERE YOU ARE. (For instance, pinks bloomed mid-April here and are finished for the season, seldom see rebloom even with deadheading.)

** Beside each one, give the ultimate width of the plant and whether they're spikes, mounds, creepers, vines.
Draw out a rough sketch of your beds on graph paper and plug the plants in. Put the creepers near the stone walls, obviously.

Even with so many plants, you might consider putting in some summer annuals that grow in sun or shade, like periwinkles, while your perennials are getting size on them. Periwinkles are just coming up in my garden while nicotianas are winding down and rudbeckia is cranking up, among other things. I lean to purple periwinkles, but they come in white and some beautiful pastels that will work with your echinacea.

Is your purple clematis still blooming? Look closely at your new ones to see if they're summer flowering or spring and fall. Fine tuning is crazy-making, but the results are worthwhile.

This drought is making me crazy.

Nell

And eaglesight's small children kept picking up the garden tools. And eaglesight commanded, "Let the garden tools go." But the children were stiffnecked and walked in the imaginations of their own heart in thinking they could do the strip-and-flip to prepare the lasagna bed.

So eaglesight gave up and took some pictures.

And eaglesight finally managed to get the tools back and finish the strip-and-flip job.

And the evening and the morning were the first day.

And eaglesight got the weathered wood 4x4's that had anchored the old shed and put them around the bed.

And eaglesight begged her husband to get grass clippings and leaves out of other people's trash. And the husband was mortified, and would not do it. And eaglesight prevailed over her husband and finally talked him into it. And the husband was wroth when someone's bag of grass clippings peed on his leg.

But eaglesight had her materials for the lasagna bed. And the evening and the morning were the second day.

And eaglesight spread the grass clippings in alternating layers with pizza cartons and dry leaves. And the children were pleased to finally get their hands dirty doing something. And eaglesight saw that it was good.

And the evening and the morning were the third day.

Then eaglesight rested from her labors for a really long time. And she kept waiting for the man from church to drop off her free load of dirt he promised that he would give to her. And eaglesight began to be impatient.

Then the load of dirt was brought unto eaglesight's home. And eaglesight saw that it was good. It was like unto the local dirt, full of clay, but of a good texture and earthy smell. And eaglesight saw that it was good.

And eaglesight spread a layer of it over the lasagna bed. Then the children helped her plant a bunch of winter-sown seedlings. And eaglesight saw that they meant well and let them help as much as she could stand to.

And it was good.

And eaglesight had no idea if this lasagna garden thing would even work out.

Lo, what is this sight of really tall flower stalks and long watermelon vines? What means this profusion of marigolds and alyssum flower? Oh, the bolted lettuce that never was picked! The sugar peas that died of drought! My heart was exceeding joyful within me and laughter filled mine ears.

And lo, eaglesight was pleased to see that the marigolds were 30% bigger than those planted in plain soil, and that the watermelon starts she gave unto the neighbor have barely reached a foot of growth.

And eaglesight discovered that her daughter could enter her zinnias and marigolds into the fair junior flower show. And she spake with her daughter, and her daughter was pleased with the idea. So on August 25, yea, we will discover the secrets of exactly how well these plants stack up. And lo, eaglesight had committed herself to a month of making sure everything was watered.

And eaglesight rested from her labors of weeding and mowing. And it was good.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I hope no one was offended or found this to be sacriligious. I started to type and the first sentence came out the way it did and I just had to go with it. LOL

You can use it on other plants. It isn't "rose specific" no fertilizer or soil amendment or growth starter is specific to any plant.

Barbara is right, it does not have to stink. It stinks because it isn't getting aerated. By stirring, Barbara adds air to her "tea". YOu don't have to stir, but if you don't want the smell, then you have to add air.

Barbara

Celeste

QUIETNESS

SEPTEMBER SONG

DORCAS

EARTH SONG

a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">

HAWKEYE BELLE

FOLKSINGER

a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">

PALOMA BLANCA

American Cottage Gardens from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden
- slim paperback full of short articles, and as with all of this series, excellent

The Cottage Garden by Christopher Lloyd and Richard Bird
- well illustrated, full of information, and reflecting my personal philosophy that a cottage garden is at its best if it contains useful as well as decorative plants

Pleasures of the Cottage Garden by Rand B. Lee
- I love this book, from the chatty tone of the author to the useful plant information

English Cottage Gardens by Ethne Clarke and Clay Perry
-eye candy from the source

English Cottage Gardening for American Gardeners by Margaret Hensel
- adapting those English gardens to varying American climates

The Northwest Cottage Garden by Andrew Schulman
-regional guide for the PNW, by the man who used to have that wonderful rose site we all miss, Yesterday's Roses, now available on the Wayback Machine

A note for Edna -- I am so impressed! I will be on the lookout for The Impressionist Garden. I almost bought it when it first came out, but remembered that I already owned Monet's Passion. I studied it long, and do believe I remember the picture. Now I will be certain to buy the book. After all, I "know" one of the contributors!

Rosefolly

- Heuchera, 'Palace Purple'
- Pennisetum 'Karley Rose'
- Hakonechloa 'Aureola'
- Fescue 'Elijah Blue'

?

So here's the break-down:
1/4" newspaper or cardboard
sprinkling of kelp (something absorbant)
6" green grass clippings (something green)
sprinkling of kelp
6" fresh llama manure (something smelly)
sprinkling of kelp
6" compost
sprinkling of kelp
optional mulch

Try it this year!

Emerald Mist is really stretching the irish theme, but the bloom color makes up for what the name is lacking.

Take your time and find the roses best suited for your area. Remember, "De reir a cheile a thogtar na caisleain"!

(Last time I bought two bottles and the clerk asked me quietly how well it worked. I told her it worked beautifully for giving my soapstone countertops a shine...)

First of all, let me preface my comments with the caveat that I’m pretty confident that everything below is accurate, but be aware that GE continues to modify the advantium models, and the differences between the models - and the way that GE presents info on them - are more than a little confusing. Also, I’m only discussing the built-ins. The over the range models are a whole other kettle of fish. So with that in mind....

I chose the advantium 120 built in over *other* convection microwaves because:
1) it has a bigger interior capacity (can rotate 9x13 casserole or large pizza)
2) has warming and proofing capabilities (many others can’t be set below 140 degrees) as well as broiling, microwaving and convection
3) it fits in the 27" wide space I had available

Other features of the advantium include the "speedcook technology" using halogen lighting combined with microwaves, but this honestly wasn’t a huge deal for me. It does make it so you can cook things without preheating, but I find the speedcook to be difficult to figure out, though I may warm up to it (haha) eventually. I like the advantium dials and find them highly intuitive and easy to use. I also like that the microwave has a function where you just select something like "soup" and it figures out how long it needs to be zapped to be hot. And it’s easy to just hit "express" when you want to just microwave something – no wading through menus.

Differences between the 120 and the 240 advantium models include
1) The cavity of the 240 is smaller than the 120 - only 13 1/2 inches deep – and I don’t think you can put a rotating 9x13 pan in there. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong on this.
2) The 120 is "less powerful", but this has not been an issue for me. The 120 "speedcook" alternates between halogen light cooking and microwave and is described as 4 times faster than normal cooking, whereas the 240 uses halogen and microwaves simultaneously and is described as 8 times faster than normal cooking.
3) The 120 comes in a 27" model, whereas I don’t think the 240 does.
4) The 240 requires a dedicated 240v line whereas the 120 just plugs into a regular wall outlet.

I chose the Monogram over the Profile because I liked the exterior design better. The Profile is curvy – this was going next to my Jennair FD fridge with the towel bar handles, so the Monogram looked better. No other differences that I know of except that apparently the Profile 120 has been updated so that it has 170 pre-programmed speedcook recipes, whereas the Monogram only has about 100 (?). Again, I’m not bowled over by preprogrammed settings for frozen bagel bites and chimichangas – not my style of cooking.

One other minor thing to be aware of. The 27" 120 is actually the same size as the 30" and requires the same 27" cut-out. "Optional" trim strips are included with the 27" that actually trim it out to be 30". Without the strips on, the oven exterior has some unattractive screws showing.

If you are looking for more info, the advantium website seems to have been updated with all kinds of cool videos etc, including some with Alton Brown. I’ve attached the link below. If you are interested specifically in the Monogram model, you can go to www.monogram.com, though there is less info there about the advantium.

Lastly, for those interested, the model I purchased is the ZSC1001KSS and I paid $1200 at a local independent appliance dealer in the Boston area.

Hope this info helps someone!

Here is a link that might be useful: advantium link

Those things shaved about 30% off the cost of the 2 story addition plus deck and moving the kitchen into it at NYC prices. More than enough to pay for the champagne and lots left over.

On the other hand, when I spoke with Rosemary at High Country Roses about this roses, she said their Darlow's Enigma was about 6 X 6. Even at this size, I have to carefully plan its location in my garden. The person to whom I am giving this rose as a gift does have plenty of room.

I suspect that its real/potential growth would depend upon not only the original or prepared soil conditions but also upon the amount of "care" you gave it, i.e. fertilizer and water.

If you wish to have something a little "tamer", you might consider Great Maiden's Blush also known as the Thigh of the Passionate Nymph. I grew this in my back yard while living in Peoria, IL. Because of the curvature of the earth and because it was planted facing north in the south of our garden, this rose was "shaded" for a few hours as the sun made its journey from East to West. The canes can get about 6 to 8 feet long and are flexible enough to be "trained" along your fence.

One year, when the weather conditions were "ideal", i.e. Mother Nature did not rapidly turn up the heat as we meandered towards our hot, humid, prairie summers, all of my old roses, including this one, experienced a long bloom period. But more importantly, their scent waifed through the yard like a wonderful perfume factory for several weeks.

If you're interested in creating the old-fashioned moist potpourri, this is one highly recommended candidate. For more information, see The Fragrant Year by Helen Van Pelt Wilson and Leonie Bell. It is out of print, but the book contains a wonderful section on the creation of both the dry and moist forms of potpourri - the most reliable information that I have found to date! Copies of this book should be available at or through your public library or through either abe.com or alibris.com

Here's a few links and information.

Great Maiden's Blush - Old Garden Roses and Beyond

Great Maiden's Blush - Heirloom Roses

You might also consider one of the more fragrant of the David Austin roses for this special place in your yard. Here's the link, just in case you don't have it bookmarked. Once you arrive at their web site type in the names of the two other recommended roses and you'll find them.

David Austin Roses - US

Two possible candidates come into mind:

The first is Fair Bianca, which is A pure white rose with something of the quality and perfection of form of the Damask Rose, Mme. Hardy. It has round buds that open to pretty little cups; later becoming saucer shaped, filled with petals and finally flattening and reflexing at the edges. Upright growth. The scent is strong and of Old Rose character, with an unusual heliotrope note.

And the second recommendation is Winchester Cathedral, which I just added to our garden along with two William Shakespeare 2000

It is A lovely, white version of the beautiful Mary Rose, It has all the virtues of its parent and is similar in every way, except that its flowers are white with occasionally the slightest touch of buff-pink at the center. The overall effect is excellent, with a mass of flowers held on a bushy shrub, which blooms at regular intervals throughout the season.

The fragrance is of Old Rose character with a hint of honey and almond blossom.

Named after one of the finest Cathedrals in Britain.

I still think that Darlow's Enigma would be an excellent candidate, espeically if you wish to plant a good "perfume factory", but then you know your particular planting area far better than I. Obviously, a second (perfume factory choice) would be Great Maiden's Blush.

Well, at least you now know of the dilemma that many of us old rose growers have - too many roses to choose from and too little room for them! ;>)

Again, my best wishes.

Bill

I have grown both of these roses, when I was living in central Illinois and I appreciated both of them for different reasons.

Madame Hardy does put on a great show, but I found that once the annual bloom period was over, the bush looked a bit leggy, i.e. the canes/stems were a bit on the thin side and the foliage didn't cover the plant as well as I thought it might or should.

However, you should keep in mind that I had - a few years earlier - made the switch from hybrid teas, etc. to the old fashioned roses, simply because I didn't wish to remain a "horticultural drug dealer" in the garden. So other than improving the soil a bit - fortunately, I had good, deep prairie loam where the roses were planted - I gave the roses a wee bit of benign neglect and left them on their own.

Blanc Double de Coubert was a very lovely rose with good repeating blooms throughout the often hot, humid prairie summers. One of the things that I really enjoyed about this rose was the (often) presence of rose hips in the fall and the fall color of its leaves.

A good, but not necessarily, perhaps, an "excellent" or "better" choice for your planned location.

Both roses were disease resistant and exhibited moderate growth - about 3.5 to 4 feet high and wide - in the areas in which they had been planted. Peoria, IL is in the lower section of zone 5.

For your planned location, I would opt for Darlow's Engima For one, it's repeat blooming habits might be greater than those of Blanc Double de Coubert; it's vigor and growth habit would do a nice job of gracing your post and rail fence; and I believe that it's blooms would make for a more reliable or interesting cut flower from time to time.

Presently, I don't grow Darlow's Enigma, but I have been doing considerable "research" on it and have ordered one plant to be given as a gift to a woman who owns and operates a small rural garden center north of us.

Because of various factors such as "own roots"; reputation of the rose grower; etc., but mainly due to the quality of the images of this rose and the accompanying information provided from various sources so that you can make a good judgement (some images of plants, including roses, are so poor that one may discouraged from purchasing them - I have listed several sources and a photograph or two of this highly recommended rose.

FYI - I purchased my gift of Darlow's Enigma from High Country Roses

Darlow's Enignma - Ashdown Roses

Darlow's Enigma - High Country Roses - no image, at present

The colors are off and the photo's aren't sharp and clear at this source.

Darlow's Enigma - Uncommon Rose

Some additional images or links:

Scroll down a wee bit until you find the photograph and commentary; this photograph should indicate why I am suggesting it for your particular area.

Darlow's Enigma, the Mystery Rose - Old White Roses

A nice close up photograph.

Darlow's Enigma - Link w/image

A very nice article with a few photographs. Inside this link you'll read the following: My two-year-old plant grows in the shade of my house and large tulip poplars. Planted in heavy clay soil it is surrounded by runaway periwinkles and pachysandra and gets no more than three hours of good sunlight. Yet with all these aggravations "Darlow’s Enigma" shrugs off bugs and black spot, and even deer, and rewards me with abundant beauty and fragrance from mid-June until the hard freezes of November. Sitting on my kitchen patio late in the afternoon I can catch the heady aroma of moist woodlands and musk rose, a tonic for the soul after a day’s labor.

Darlow's Enigma - January, 2005 - Rose of the Month

Here's the photograph that inspired me to add this rose to our garden; unfortunately, I haven't come to any conclusion as to where to plant it at present; thus the gift to the friend noted above - to see how well it performs in our neck of the woods. I'll place an order from High Country Roses next spring.

As to your planting area, I would dig a nice deep hole about 24 inches wide and deep and then add a great deal of good soil amendments to create a loose, friable, humusy soil structure. Once the planting area has been created cover the area with lots of organic mulch from this fall's leaves and let them rot. In the spring, incorporate the organic matter into the soil as deeply as possible and then plant your selected rose.

In addition, I would probably give the area just below the roots of your rose a small handful of Plant Tone; plant the rose's roots; place more soil around the rose; and add another small handful of Plant Tone. Bring the soil up to about an inch above the soil line, add a small handful of Rose Tone and deeply water the rose. Firm the soil in place and cover with organic mulches. From there onward, let the rose do its thing and water when necessary.

FYI - A small handful is less than 1/4 cup

For the next spring, I would probably give these roses a good dressing of either Plant Tone or Rose Tone - links to both are just below. I usually use Plant Tone (1/2 to 3/4 cup) on my roses in the early spring when the daffodils are starting to come up; then give the roses some Rose Tone (3/4 to 1 cup) in the late spring/early summer; and then give the roses another dose (3/4 cup) later in the summer.

All my plants are given a good does of organic mulches - mostly cypress wood chips - and a good watering when Mother Nature doesn't supply enough rainfall.

Plant Tone

Rose Tone

Hope this extra bit of information and sources are most useful in your old rose endeavors.

Best wishes.

Bill

What I DO have:
Office paper, more than I could ever imagine
Grass clippings, enough but not a lot
Coffee grounds, plenty (the lady at circle K loves me)
Yard trimmings, NOT a lot & I don't have a chipper/shreader
Pine needles, plenty

I know that these are pretty bare bones. Could I do the lasagna method anyway? I'm not worried about the coffee and pine needles making the bed acidic. I plan to plant ALL blueberries in this space. My soil is neutral and up naturally.

Any and all comments are warmly welcomed. Thanks for helping out a newbie to the soil forum.

Kristiina

Marie

Here is a link that might be useful: Everything and the Kitchen Sink

1) Water is the most important fertilizer.

2) I agree with Oldroser that 10:10:10 is hard to beat.

3) A cup or so of alfalfa every so often should be a part of every rose fertilizer program.

4) If you think you have salt-buildup in your soil, look to your irrigation water. The only salts in most modern rose fertilizers are the plant nutrients themselves.

5) I don't trust high-phosphorous (bloom-booster) fertilizers.

6) I think Osmocote is a good way to fertilize. I wish the big-box stores carried the formula with micronutrients.

7) I like to supplement Osmocote with cheap water-soluble fertilizers, every so often.

8) In the colder zones, I think fertilizers which contain a high percentage of nitrate-nitrogen are preferable to straight urea-nitrogen fertilizers.

9) Other than learning their soil pH, the majority of people who get a soil test could have saved time by reading the label on a good rose fertilizer package. The problem comes in knowing if you are one of the majority.

10) If your soil is too acidic, apply lime. If it's too alkaline, it might be best to learn to live with it. The British do, and they grow good roses.