Clippings by ellie479

 Sort by: Last Updated Post Date Post Title Forum Name 

RE: Best Roses for Partial Shade?? (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: sherryocala on 07.04.2010 at 11:22 am in Antique Roses Forum

Judith, silly me, I was getting ready to give you my list when it struck me that blooming is the criteria. Whoops! I have Parade, Cornelia, Mrs B R Cant, Francois Juranville and one Louis Philippe in mostly shade. They're all green and healthy, but I have nothing to compare their blooming to. Being young climbers, P (3rd year) and FJ (1st year) may just be showing their youth, but they're supposed to tolerate shade. My Cornelia is healthy (major accomplishment since other HMs are now gone due to this issue) but she hasn't bloomed a whole lot with maybe 2 hours of late afternoon sun after a year in the ground. Amazingly, MBRC did bloom even on her backside which is in dark shade. Unfortunately, the whole bush is now in shade. I'm sure she would bloom more in sun. Must trim some trees! Clotilde Soupert does real well in a lot of shade - don't know exactly how much sun she gets. Maybe 4 - 5 hours.

Sherry

NOTES:

shade tolerant roses
clipped on: 12.17.2012 at 10:03 pm    last updated on: 12.17.2012 at 10:05 pm

Organic pest control spray for spider mites etc.

posted by: kasha77 on 07.18.2010 at 03:47 pm in Brugmansia Forum

Insect control spray
Cornell Cooperative Extension has developed an organic spray that can be used year round to control small insects such as aphids, scale, and mites plus it will smother fungal spores to control blackspot and powdery mildew on ornamental plants and fruit trees. The basic recipe calls for horticultural grade oil mixed with baking soda or potassium bicarbonate and water to be sprayed on the plants until they drip slightly. Spray when temperature is above 32 degrees, the weather is dry and the next night won't fall below freezing. Also, wait until moisture from heavy dew or melting frost has evaporated to begin spraying. Spray twice before the leaves appear in spring. I usually prune then spray the roses about mid February then again in two weeks.

There are several brands of horticultural oil available but the basic recipe is:
2- 4 T Horticultural Oil (Ultrafine, Sunspray, Volk Oil) I also use food grade Canola oil. [ the final concentration should be ~ 2%]
4 tsp of baking soda or potassium bicarbonate
1 T liquid soap like Dr Bronners, dish liquid, or Murphys oil soap but only if the oil lacks emulsifiers
Add to 1 gallon of water and spray twigs LIGHTLY, but covering all surfaces.

This can be used in summer also but never on a hot day.
kasha77

NOTES:

sprayed today! let's see what happens!
clipped on: 11.06.2012 at 04:19 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2012 at 04:20 pm

RE: Newbie: Canterbury bells seed question (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: sewobsessed on 04.25.2008 at 03:44 pm in Growing from Seed Forum

gardenlover 7,
this might help you a bit:

Here is a link that might be useful: Wayne Schmidt's Canterbury Bell Page

NOTES:

helpful link on canterbury bell's. also, i just realized that i had been praying for patience. maybe gardening is God's nudge to me to practice it! canterbury bells are biennials!
clipped on: 11.06.2012 at 04:16 pm    last updated on: 11.06.2012 at 04:17 pm

RE: Vinegar for black spots (Follow-Up #78)

posted by: pamelasv on 05.17.2009 at 06:36 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

This recipe I used that stopped BS in its tracks which is also good to get rid of thrips and other insects.

1 Tablespoon veggy oil
1 gallon unclorinated water
1 Tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp brown listerine(I know this isnt organic, its what the insects dont like)
1 Tbsp liquid Soap--NOT DETERGENT. Some dish soaps say detergent in really small print somewhere on the bottle.
1 1/2 Tblsp baking soda
large spray pump.

Add vinegar at the end so it doesnt bubble over.

NOTES:

Good to know! Keeping it in my arsenal :D
clipped on: 11.04.2012 at 11:01 am    last updated on: 11.04.2012 at 11:02 am

RE: Vinegar for black spots (Follow-Up #66)

posted by: neognomic on 06.26.2007 at 11:06 pm in Organic Rose Growing Forum

Vinegar was a waste of time. Two weeks and no change except the plants were more infected and as I mentioned before, one more appeared to be on the way to death.
So I stopped that foolhardy approach.
I used the NEEM oil extract(70%) I had purchased, same way as the vinegar(in hose end sprayer), and problem was gone by the third day. ALL plants with leaves had healthy leaves with no visible BS.
It also removed the aphids... and it took care of the powdery mildew on the groundcover roses.

It also worked in the garden for aphids on the tom's and some kind of bug and fungi on the cuc's.

Neem product is approved for organic growers.
E.g., see http://www.neem4organicfarming.com/

Unfortunately it does not kill or chase off ants or squirrels ...

I have since found that these "Simplicity" plants are advertised as "hardy" but J&P fails to mention the BS. Now I know why. They are terrible for BS which means I have a once a week - 10 day spraying for the rest of my (or their) life from March until October- NOTHING simple about that!
WoW: NEVER buy Simplicity Hedge Roses from J&P if you are in the South(cannot speak for dryer areas). ...

NOTES:

If the vinegar mixture doesn't work, I'll have to give the Neem oil a try.
clipped on: 11.04.2012 at 10:53 am    last updated on: 11.04.2012 at 10:55 am

RE: Vinegar for black spots (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: The_Dark_Rose on 02.11.2002 at 11:09 am in Organic Rose Growing Forum

I have used this recipe after finding it at one of your rose forums last year and it has worked wonders!!!

3 tablespoons of Apple Cider Vinegar to 5 litres of water. I couldn't begin to tell you how impressed I was at the results! Double Delight, which used to get riddled with blackspot looked lush and healthy with no b/s to be seen!

Also as an experiment I sprayed on the vinegar spray and waited to see how long it would take for more blackspot to appear, and it took approximately 3-4 weeks for the more blackspot prone roses and even longer for the healthier ones,( the Austins ) if at all!

As for only spraying in the early morning or early evening, I found that that didn't matter either. I sprayed during the middle of the day ( in spring, mind you! ) without any burning.

Another method I have adopted now is to spray with the vinegar spray and then alternate with the milk spray - 1 part milk to 7 parts water. Works a treat! I'm so happy to find such a cheap and harmless solution, and by harmless I mean that you can get away with having your skin exposed, but I still wear sunglasses as the vinegar solution could burn your eyes if it blew into them I suppose! All the best and happy gardening!

Here's another method I adopt to occasionally. When your rose leaves are showing sign of deficiency, like yellow leaves etc, simply spray on a solution of either liquid seaweed and water or fish emulsion and water and the leaves bounce back within the week of spraying. I use a small hand sprayer that is about 450 mls. Add only half a teaspoon of the liquid seaweed or fish ..... that's all you need! And that's all from me ......... over and out!
:-D

NOTES:

Good to know!! Will have to try this!
clipped on: 11.03.2012 at 10:39 am    last updated on: 11.03.2012 at 10:40 am

RE: Palm trees in cottage garden??? (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: bahia on 10.17.2007 at 12:10 pm in Tropicals Forum

I can think of a few subtropicals right off the bat that would substitute for your climbing roses, wisteria and hydrangeas and work well with the palms. For the white roses, you might try Pandorea jasminoides alba or Beaumontia grandiflora, for the wisteria you could substitute the evergreen wisteria, Milletia, or the equally lovely purple flowering Petrea volubilis or Hardenbergia violaceae or Dalechampia dioscoreifolia, and for the hydrangeas, why not try Clerodendron phillipinum. There are also tons of foliage plants that work in zone 10 conditions and are as colorful as flowers; such as Iresine bowdenii in its red and yellow/green forms, various Cannas, subtropical Iris relatives such as Iris confusus or Neomarica caerulea, and Phormiums and Astelias. Shrimp plants of various species such as Justicia carnea, J. fulvicoma, J. aurea, J. brandegeana are other long blooming shrubs that could give you a cottagey look but with subtropicals, and work well with the palms. Other flowering shrubs such as the various Tibouchinas, Odontonemas, Hamelia, Hibiscus rosa sinensis, etc could all form part of a colorful garden, and would be the envy of gardeners further north.

It would be worth your effort to get familiar with what grows well in your new climate, rather than try to grow poorly adapted plants that fight your climate. A subtropical climate does not mean you can't garden in a particular garden style, just that you have to adjust your plant choices.

I don't know if you are in Florida, California or the deep south, but palms fit in very well in all of these places, and can be part of a beautiful garden setting in any style.

If you are correct about the species you have, these could be backbones of your new garden, and people would love to have mature specimens of Archontophoenix cunninghamiana, Brahea armata and Cycas revoluta or Dioone species in the garden. You might also think of adding more smaller growing palms to flesh out the garden, such as Phoenix roebellenii, Arenga engleri, Chamaedorea plumosa, Trachycarpus wagneriana, etc to repeat the forms but at a more human scale. Heliconias, Strelitzia, Tupidanthus and Schefflera, Crotons, Cordyline terminalis, etc can also help flesh out the look, and give you background foliage and color.

You might also consider that some of our most common American garden annuals are all originally tender tropical perennials; such as Cosmos,Impatiens, Zinnias, Marigolds, Dahlias, Petunias, etc., and are all classic cottage garden plants.

NOTES:

Lots of interesting substitutions for traditional English garden flowers
clipped on: 10.31.2012 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2012 at 09:46 pm

RE: Recent Pictures (very pic heavy) (Follow-Up #10)

posted by: carrieburgess3 on 07.13.2010 at 06:01 pm in Cottage Garden Forum

Hey Guys, thanks so much for all the great comments.

I'll start with 'Blue Girl'. This is my first year with her. Her first flash of blooms started about two weeks ago and I remove the last spent bloom from her today. There are lot of buds on her for the next flush. My husband, who is not into gardening at all, went to The Home Depot to buy a tool and stumble upon some bare root roses. He brought her home to me that night along with Miss American Beauty and Pascali. You want to talk about a proud man. From that night in March until she bloomed he told anyone who would listen about the blue rose bush he bought for his wife. Now, if I had been a smart woman it would have accrued to me to sit him down and explain that the blooms would not likely be blue but some shade of purple. Like I said, IF I were a smart woman, no such luck. He went to check on her nearly every night after work. So the day she open I couldn't wait for him to see it. Well I found him staring down at her beautiful lavender blooms, thinking he would be so pleased. When he looked up at and said "I feel like a foul!" I laugh out loud. And told him that if we cut them and put them in some water with blue food colouring they would like turn blue. He was heart broken. I swear I will take this one to my grave. Too Funny.
Anyway all three of the roses he got that day are listed on Dave's Garden as being hardy to Zone 7a. So I think I will dig up Blue Girl, mulch the other two and hope for the best.

The Petunias I started the end of February from pelleted seeds I bought off E Bay. And put them out in the middle of April. They were so easy I had nearly 100% success rate. I used the lights from the two Aerogardens I got for Christmas to get them stared. After they were on their way I took the lights away to get something else start and they patiently waited to be put out.

And finally the Chinese Houses. They are not a wildflower here. I got the seeds as a free gift with some other seeds I bought. They are an annual. I laterally just through the seeds at the ground and forgot them. I was pleasantly surprised when the bloomed.

Annie- I do what I can ;) You should defiantly try Astilbe again. C'mon everyone else is donnin it!!! LOL
Heritage, The Fairy and White Astilbe
I got this shot this morning

I under planted astilbe between The Fairy and Heritage as they both droop. Now the droop down on astilbe instead of the mud. And The fairy offers shade since she is in front.

krycek1984- I only have a handful of poppies in bloom today and another handful left to bloom. Mine were late even for my area. I through the seeds down on the snow in February. I am really not sure why they were so late. This is my first year growing poppies.

Gerylady-gardener, I started the petunias in February.

For Lilyfinch and Craftlady

I find it so hard to take nice picture of the whole garden. But I gave it my best go.
July 13 2010

July
July 13 2010

july
Please excuse the mess we are in the middle of splitting wood. This bed runs along side the garage and has four margaret merril, one abe darby and white foxglove.

Christin- Every year I say, next year I'm spraying. But then I never do. I have to admit, used a bit of creative cropping. Although this has been a great year. Just a bit of blackspot on a few things and the roses only have a few half eat leaves here and there.
I really can't answer your colour question as this is her first flush. However it has been really hot here the last few weeks.

I bought the petunia seeds and have been really vigilant about dead heading. So I haven't looked for seed heads. I plan to just buy more. The pelleted seeds make it so easy.

Thank you again for looking.
Carrie

NOTES:

Such a beautiful cottage garden. Varying height and depth adds interest. Not symmetrical. Will have to keep in mind for future reference. I wonder though, how difficult is it to care for plants when they are all bunched up together....
clipped on: 10.31.2012 at 04:14 pm    last updated on: 10.31.2012 at 04:16 pm