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RE: List of stuff in kitchens? (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: buehl on 07.18.2008 at 12:13 am in Kitchens Forum

To indirectly answer your question, here's the storage planning "guide" I came up should help you figure out what you want to store in the kitchen and where.

Once you've finalized your basic design, it's time to analyze your storage needs in each zone. The results of that analysis will drive the size/configuration of your cabinets and drawers. (The following is a general write-up I've come up with...)

  1. First, make a list of everything you plan to store in your new kitchen, regardless of where it's stored, basement, dining room, etc.

  2. Next, take the list and group the items according to function. Will they be used during prep? cooking? baking? cleanup? Some items, like pot holders, may belong in two different zones (in this case, cooking & baking). You can either find storage between the two zones or have duplicates and store one in each zone.

  3. Now, determine where each of your zones will be (prep, cleanup, cooking, baking, storage, etc.)

  4. The next step depends on the stage you are in the design/order process...

  5. If you've already ordered your cabinets, then you will have to work with what you have. So...

    • Identify the storage potential in each zone and list them on a piece of paper with a section for each cabinet (base & upper) and one line per drawer or shelf in that cabinet. This includes your pantry for your "storage" zone.

    • Take the two lists and, while imagining yourself working in each zone, put the dishes, tools, etc. that you will be using in cabinets in that zone. Fill in the lines in the cabinet list with these items.

    If you are still in the design phase, you will have the opportunity to plan your storage to meet your needs in each zone.

    • Take your list and imagine yourself working in each zone.

    • Go through the motions to determine the best locations for each item that will be used and stored in that zone (don't forget that you will probably have both upper and lower cabinets).

    • Now that you know where to put the items, determine what the best way is to store those items (drawer, shelf, etc.) and what size (e.g., pots & pans work best in 30" or 36" drawers)

    • Lastly, transfer what you've done to your design & tweak as necessary.

You should now have a well-thought out and highly functional kitchen!

This not only helps you to "see" how things will fit, but it also will help when you move back into the won't have to think about it, you'll be able to just put things away. It will also be a handy "map" for everyone to help find things the first few weeks w/o having to open every drawer or door!

Oh, and don't forget the Junk Drawer! Most people end up with one, so you may as well plan for it so you at least have control over where it's located!

Common Zones, Appliances In That Zone, and Suggestions For What To Store There:

  • Storage--pantry & refrigerator--tupperware, food, wraps & plastic bags

  • Preparation--sink & trash--utensils, measuring cups/spoons, mixing bowls, colander, jello molds, cutting boards, knives, cook books, paper towels

  • Cooking--cooktop/range & MW--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, serving dishes (platters, bowls, etc.), paper towels

  • Baking--ovens/range--utensils, pot holders, trivets, pots & pans, casserole dishes, roasting rack, cooling racks, cookie sheets, foils, rolling pin, cookie cutters, pizza stone, muffin tins, paper towels

  • Cleanup--sink & DW & trash--detergents, linens, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Eating--island/peninsula/table/nook/DR--table linens, placemats, napkins, dishes & glasses, flatware

  • Utility--broom, dustpan, swifter, mop, cleaning supplies, cloths, flashlights, batteries, extension cords

  • Message Center--phones, charging station, directories/phone books, calendar, desk supplies, dry erase board or chalkboard

Less Common Zones:

  • Tea/Coffee Bar--coffeemaker--mugs, teas/coffees, sugar, teapot

  • Pet Zone--feeding area--food, snacks

Commonly Used Items: pots & pans, utensils, small appliances, linens, pot holders, trivets, dish detergents, "Tupperware", knives, pitchers, water bottles, vases, picnic supplies, cook books, etc.

Foods: Spices, Breads, Flours/Sugars, Teas/Coffees, Potatoes, Onions, Canned Goods, Dry Goods (rice, pasta, etc.), Cereals, Snacks

Small Appliances: Toaster, Stand and/or Hand Mixer, Blender, Breadmaker, Toaster Oven, Food Processor, Crockpot, Waffle Iron, Electric Skillet, Coffeemaker, Coffee Grinder, Ricer, Steamer

NOTE: If your ceiling or one or more of your walls is coming down, consider wiring for speakers, TV, Computer, etc.


clipped on: 05.05.2013 at 05:36 pm    last updated on: 05.05.2013 at 05:36 pm

RE: Pulls have me tied in knots (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: karin_mt on 03.29.2013 at 05:52 pm in Kitchens Forum

Do a trial run. We thought we wanted the long, sleek pulls until we did a mock-up. We went with 9" instead of 13" and found a great price at Going

Anyway, to do a mock-up, roll up a sheet of paper to the approx diameter. Tape it so it stays rolled up. Cut it to the various lengths. Use double-stick tape to tape it in place. You can try out different lengths, orientations and placements. Also, both of you can stand back and look at it, instead of imagining what it would look like.

There is a recent thread about pulls on slab doors, that might be a good starting place. Good luck! I hope nobody goes under a bus, the poor bus driver would feel terrible about that. :)


mock up door pulls idea
clipped on: 03.30.2013 at 12:22 am    last updated on: 03.30.2013 at 12:22 am

RE: Cabinet quote (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: hollysprings on 01.18.2013 at 07:39 am in Kitchens Forum

It's not all about price unless that's what you want it to be about. There are other considerations.

They are pretty much in order based on their actual quality. Things you can't "see" from a quote. The finishes on Schuler or Diamond are far superior to any on your list. Medallion isn't bad either, just not to the Diamond and Schuler level. Their products are just nicer to look at and touch. That's the really important part of the cabinet. I wouldn't care a fig for all plywood, and would save that upgrade money if choosing one of them puts you over budget. It's only misguided wood snobbery that actually makes people believe that plywood is "better" for cabinet construction. Save the money on the furniture board boxes and get the better quality doors and drawer fronts. You'll never be sorry.


clipped on: 02.22.2013 at 05:56 pm    last updated on: 02.22.2013 at 05:56 pm

RE: New dishwasher for daughter w/new baby (Follow-Up #7)

posted by: pkguy on 12.16.2012 at 03:22 pm in Appliances Forum

Here is the model coding for KitchenAid dishwashers. Useful when you're shopping.

I bought the KUDE40FXWH and am quite happy with it. It has all the sensor type washing, pot scrubbers on the back wall, etc. What I really like though is it has a 1 hour wash cycle (not including optional 20 minute dry time). It's also pretty quiet .
The number in the model indicates variances within that model line, the higher the number more features and maybe some more sound insulation.

KUDC & KUDS models. They have the traditional self cleaning grinder) wash system with the 4 way lower wash arm.

KUDE models are the European filter based washed system with variable speed wash motor and alternating spray arms. Quieter and more energy efficient. "S" shaped spray arms

FX=fully integrated controls on top of the door & towel bar handle. Certain models feature a cycle sequence LED on upper right corner of the front door panel.

FXPA=same as above---accepts custom door panels to match your cabinets

SX=fully integrated with top controls, towel bar handle and on-board water softener

IX=traditional console with visible front controls, cycle sequence LED & pocket handle

CX=same as above, but has digital display-bar graph cycle sequence indicator

HX=fully integrated top controls with flush lever style handle on the front of the door


clipped on: 02.15.2013 at 09:10 am    last updated on: 02.15.2013 at 09:10 am

RE: 2LittleFishies Yellow Kitchen Reveal !!! LONG! (Follow-Up #89)

posted by: 2LittleFishies on 02.08.2013 at 05:23 pm in Kitchens Forum

T H A N K Y O U ! ! !

First of all, as I read through all the comments I saw so many names and remembered how some of you may have contributed to my kitchen in some way. That is why I didn't want to list people b/c I don't want to leave anyone out! I hope it suffices to say Thanks and you know who you are if you had a part : )

(why do I feel like I'm accepting an Academy Award??? They ARE in February, right?)

Without sounding crazy, I really am in heaven each time I walk into the kitchen, get to have a cup of tea, talk on the phone, bake muffins.... I find myself just staring at everything and running my hands along the marble... LOL

Our GC really loved it and wants to have professional pics done in the spring. He does homes in our area that are millions of dollars and on all the house/kitchen tours. Ours is just a small, cute home-- but we love it. His comment that our kitchen could stand up to any of the "tour kitchens" really made me feel proud!

Let me scroll up and see what questions were asked---

deedles- the trash/towel cabinet is 14 3/4". I recommend reading my paper towel thread b/c we had a dowel that I didn't love and replaced it with a better mechanism.

rtwilliams- LOVING induction so far : ) Quick, efficient, responsive and easy to clean!

CEFreeman- LOVE your posts! They do always make me smile! We love the house. We did a BIG downsize from a nearly 4000 sq ft house to a now 1700 sq ft HOME. We have two children. We love this house and are hoping it will suit our needs. (I'll never want to leave this kitchen now! And that's where everyone hangs out anyway right?) The living room is our family room which is why we added the doors. The 2 kids rooms are upstairs with a small loft which is their playroom and there's a full bath for them.. SO, they have a little suite of their own and our Bedroom and the main bath is off a small hallway off the living room. We want to finish the basement so they have some more space as they get older.
We love the area we live in and also love having a pool, the school and park across the street and we're walking distance to our downtown where there are a handful of restaurants, ice cream, A&P, pharmacies.... also we are a few miles from the beach! SO, what more could we want? Well, Maybe the butler and pool boy but then we'd have to get a bigger house... right?... hmmm. LOL

quiltgirl- My open shelves are 12" deep. I also had the cabinet maker put a plate groove in all the open shelving and glass cabinets. Presently, I'm only using it to stand up plates in the 2 upper cabs surrounding the hood but I thought it's good to have if I ever want to display plates, etc.
The cabs were all done by a custom PA cabinet maker. I THINK the panels are MDF b/c I believe they said they are better for some reason. Maybe having to do with wood moving? Now, I have to ask about that again. Yes, the cabs were pricey but reasonable at the same time for what we got. I did a lot of price comparing.

rhome- Thank you! Like I was saying to Christine, the doors were mostly b/c the LR is our family room space so we wanted to be able to close things off when the kids are doing hw in the kitchen and DH is watching TV. Or at night if someone (DH) is watching TV and I want to chat in the kitchen on the phone or have a glass of wine with a friend... Last week, I was baking and listening to music through the ceiling speakers and DH watched a movie. It's not sound proof of course but the sounds didn't compete at all! Once that space was nice and open between the 2 rooms, several people said, "Why are you putting doors? Why close it off?" but we knew it was right for us functionally and being I changed the design to glass sliders we got the best of both worlds.
The old swing french door we used to have between our Kitchen and DR was saved and we put it between the LR and hall where Master BR and main bath is. We love it so when someone goes to bed the TV noise gets cut down.

DSC00810 photo file_zps40bf78e7.jpg

The backsplash tiles are a creamy white and hard to photo. Actually with the whole kitchen it's hard to take photos and get the color right (especially with my mediocre camera). You can see the white looks yellowy in some pics are bluish in others with flash. Anyway, I didn't like any of the whites they offered. Way too cool or sometimes pink.. so they did a custom color match to the BM Mascarpone but actually they are not a perfect match. I think I would ave liked them slightly whiter but they do read white most of the time and definitely aren't yellow. These were the only tiles I ever seriously considered. Before that I was thinking of a ceramic bead board but then found these and lavender_lass and I loved them : ) The pattern is more subtle than when the samples were lying on the table, etc. but I think it's just enough.

I love the Pottery Barn Emma dishes. I have them in yellow and white. They are a bit heavier than I wanted but were the perfect yellow (almost a perfect match to the cabs!) and I couldn't pass them up!

stacylh- Loving the Elux Icon ovens! No issues whatsoever so far : )

lzhwong- The command central is 4' 2" wide. The top is regular shelving and mostly empty at this point : )

homebuyer- The island is 9 feet by 51". The aisle on the eating side is 53" from countertop to countertop and on the working side of island it is 43" and 39" where the fridge is. I actually didn't think of the fact that the fridge would stick out from the cabinetry however it's only at the end of island and hasn't been an issue.


2littlefishies details
clipped on: 02.09.2013 at 08:31 pm    last updated on: 02.09.2013 at 08:31 pm

RE: Do you have cream painted cabs? (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: mtnrdredux on 01.21.2013 at 12:47 pm in Kitchens Forum

A034 - Anthropologie. Actually I have them in 4 designs, i just love them. I also like their diminutive size (~ 1 cup). I can't help it, I like everything that company does.

Raee, I have purchased cabinets twice in my life, both custom. The first time it was the Rutt brand. They paint their cabinets before install, in a paint booth with a special paint and paint process ( i forget what it is called and all I can think of is the phrase "catalytic converter" but I know that is not it!).

They boasted how well this paint would hold up. They were right. Nary a chip or scratch, 8 years of use or so and three little kids. When we sold our house they still looked new.

Great, right?

I know this may sound odd, but they were too perfect. To me it was as thought they were not wood, the finish was so smooth and flawless.

So for my new kitchen, which is also in a less formal, more country home, I really wanted to see brush strokes. These were totally custom from a carpenter via our GC. However, everyone said that they really needed to be painted in a spray booth with that same procedure. Then, afterward, they would do a very light glaze to add the brush strokes.

I have no idea if that was good advice or not. I still wonder why people couldn't just paint them in situ. Not enough profit is my guess.


catalyzed finish with brush strokes glaze
clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 10:42 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 10:43 pm

RE: Do you have cream painted cabs? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: grlwprls on 01.21.2013 at 09:58 am in Kitchens Forum

BM Simply White or AF20 (mascarpone) are my out of the box, go to whites from Ben Moore. SW Creamy and Dover White are my Sherwin Williams picks.

But yes, whites/creams are hard. If you're a person who can't see undertones well, look at the deepest color on the strip of whites. It will basically show you whether a color is likely to go peach, green, etc.

And don't skimp on painting a large board and looking at it in your space for several days.


clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 10:41 pm

RE: Do you have cream painted cabs? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: christine40 on 01.21.2013 at 09:10 am in Kitchens Forum

mine are not glazed, and are painted OC-11 Clay Beige---here's a pic--it's similiar to the kraftmaid cab color-mushroom.


clipped on: 01.21.2013 at 10:41 pm    last updated on: 01.21.2013 at 10:41 pm

Wood Countertops--IRL usage data discussion

posted by: breezygirl on 01.18.2013 at 02:43 am in Kitchens Forum

On another current thread about how a wood counter with Waterlox is not fairing well, a couple of members have started discussing how their tops are wearing. Rather than hijack that thread, I thought we should begin a separate one for this conversation. It might help others thinking of a wood top to know what to expect. I gave a quick answer to Firsthouse when she posted a thread asking me about mine so I think others could benefit. And, we can reassure ourselves that our patina'd tops are "normal." :)

I NEED to sleep so I won't post much tonight, except to say that my Osmo Polyx Oiled Black Walnut counter has scratches and some dents after 14 months. I can't imagine that any wood counter wouldn't do the same, even those with Waterlox. When you drop an aluminum can of stewed tomatoes or have a cocktail shaker full of Lemon Drop yumminess fly out of your hands while vigorously shaking, wood will do what wood does.

Anyone else want to chime in until I can post some other experience and photos tomorrow? It might help to identify your wood species and what product you used for finishing.


clipped on: 01.18.2013 at 01:16 pm    last updated on: 01.18.2013 at 01:16 pm

Thoughts/Comments on RO (Reverse Osmosis) water systems

posted by: philwojo on 04.18.2012 at 01:07 pm in Appliances Forum

Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts or comments on RO (Reverse Osmosis) water filtration systems. As part of our kitchen remodel DW and I are moving from in the door water on the fridge to an dedicate sink faucet. We are not sure yet if we are going to go with a simple in-line water filer or an RO system.

As I posted in another thread my main holdup with the RO system is the amount of waste water it produces, here is a quote I have read often online:

"An RO unit delivering 5 gallons of treated water per day may discharge anywhere between 20 upwards of 90 gallons of waste water per day. For household use, however, and based on consumption of half a gallon per day, this may amount to less than a toilet-flush per day."

Can anyone offer up some advice on this type of system for me.



read followups
clipped on: 01.16.2013 at 05:22 pm    last updated on: 01.16.2013 at 05:23 pm

salt or chlorine? pebble or plaster?

posted by: lostinthewoodlands on 01.05.2012 at 08:43 pm in Pools & Spas Forum

We have finally decided to build a pool, and have had some great PB'S come out so far. We had one who stood us up (platnuim) but could care less about them now. When talking to the PB'S we realize there are many options and each PB has there own opinion on diffrent aspects.

Should we go with Salt or Chlorine? We live North of Houston, does the climate matter? Will it affect the flagstone or anything else? If I use chlorine, will my kids get the eye and skin irretation? Or is that if I dont keep the levels correct? How often should we check levels.
On the whole pebbel tech pebbel sheer and pebble whatever else, my question is how rough is it, will my kids feet get all beat up or is that myth or a cheap version (knock off) of pebbel tech. How about a "Quartz plaste mix". Does plaster really only last about 3 years? We are at the very beginning stages of this and are learning a lot very fast.

We have had HIPP Pools, Iguana pools, Wise Pools and Lonstar pools come out so far, and have learned something diffrent from each one. We have Atlantis Pools coming out this weekend. Does anyone know if these are good Pool builders for the Woodlands area. I called these and one chain one platnium but got stood up by him, so they are the first off the list. I think im impressedso far with the above builders, but they are talkin to someone who has no clue and googling alot. Thanks for any input you all give


read follow ups
clipped on: 01.14.2013 at 10:52 am    last updated on: 01.14.2013 at 10:53 am

RE: Do's and don't 101: Cabinets (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: bevangel on 01.12.2013 at 01:44 pm in Building a Home Forum

Okay, you're not building a starter home! LOL. My tastes in cabinets are at the opposite extreme from yours so I can't recommend any great sources for white painted Shaker-style cabinets. But I CAN still make some recommendations which - while they won't save you any money and, in fact, will probably cost extra - will make your kitchen so much more user-friendly that you'll be glad you spent the extra.

1) Replace most of your lower cabinet shelves and doors with stacked drawers. You'll love how much easier it is to get to everything and an 8.5 to 9 inch deep drawer will hold just about anything.

2) Make sure the interior depth of your top drawers is deep enough to hold the things you like to store there. This is one mistake I made. I had my custom cabinets built with the top drawer faces the exact same height as those one sees on ready-built cabinets without thinking about the fact that with the thicker wood used to make the bottoms of the drawers, the interior depth of the drawer would wind up being slightly less. I like to keep spatulas, dippers, big cooking spoons, and that sort of thing in a top drawer next to my stove and those things won't quite fit right. If I had another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of depth, they'd be perfect. It was my mistake tho so I don't blame my cabinet maker. He did an awesome job!

3) Opt for 15 inch deep upper cabinets instead of the standard 12 inch deep models. They hold ever so much more and I, at least, never notice them as being "in the way" when I'm using the counter top below them for prep.

4) Ask for at least one extra shelf for each of your upper cabinets especially if you get 42 inch high uppers instead of 36 high ones. (If your kitchen has a 9 ft or 10 ft ceiling, you'll probably want the taller uppers.) Typically cabinets, including custom ones, come with two adjustable shelves. With a 42 in high cabinet, you usually have plenty of room for one more shelf and having it will keep you from having to go out and buy a bunch of those metal wire "stackers." If you don't need the extra shelves, you can store them away in the attic.

5) Don't forget to plan a convenient place for your broom, mop, and mop bucket. Someplace hidden away but where air can circulate to dry the mop is best. I keep mine in a tall cabinet next to my freezer my mud room. The cabinet has air holes drilled in the side next to the freezer for circulation. You have to leave about 2 inches of space around freezers and fridges for air circulation any way and having the broom closet next to the freezer means that warm air coming from the freezer coils helps to dry out my mop.

6) Also, in planning your kitchen, think about where you can put a stand-alone trash can. If you do a built-in trash compactor, when you have a big party, I can promise you that your guests WON'T be able to find the trash compactor. (After all, the point of building it in IS to hide it! LOL!) If your guests can't find a stand-alone trash receptacle, they are forced to either start opening your lower cabinets at random looking for that hidden trash compactor, or leave crushed cocktail napkins and used paper plates lying around on your counter-tops. Even if you ONLY pull it out for big parties, it's nice to have a convenient (and obvious) corner to place an old fashioned tall kitchen trash can.


clipped on: 01.12.2013 at 08:32 pm    last updated on: 01.12.2013 at 08:32 pm

RE: Wall cab height for 11 ft ceilings (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: lishaana on 05.19.2008 at 12:20 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have 11 foot ceilings and used 18" stacked cabs on 42" uppers. We also staggered the heights. Our hood wall the tallest section goes to the ceiling to conceal the hood vent pipes. On our other wall we have a hutch look that doesn't quite go to the ceiling.



(the center section actually goes a few inches higher now, as a piece of the trim was missing when this picture was taken)


not sure i like the staggered look. don't like lighted upper uppers.
clipped on: 12.18.2012 at 09:27 pm    last updated on: 12.18.2012 at 09:27 pm

Walnut Island top used as cutting board - photos & finish details

posted by: petestein1 on 09.14.2010 at 01:35 pm in Kitchens Forum

Almost two years ago I contributed to some posts about using my island top as a cutting board and got some helpful advice. I thought I'd post an update.

As part of a full renovation our kitchen island got a nice beefy top made of black walnut. Even though everyone thought I was nut, I said I wanted to use part of it as a cutting board. After all, it's a kitchen, not a museum. With that in mind, I had to come up with a food-safe finish for it. What I chose, based on advice here, was nothing more than a hand-rubbed application of mineral oil and bees wax.

I'm happy to report that it's been over a year and everything's gone great. First, the island looks great. Everyone comments on it the moment they see it.

Second, using it as a cutting board has worked out quite well. The wood is more than hard enough to stand up to my knives. Not having to get out a cutting board, and then keep all my chopped whatever on the cutting board as I work... it makes life so much easier. For those who told me I needed to do something akin to butcher-block -- making the island top out of end-grain... well, you were incorrect. End-grain would have been harder no doubt but the walnut is more than hard enough. And worst case? I break out a power sander and 1/64" of an inch later my island would be in immaculate condition.

No doubt, the knife leaves marks in the wood. But the wood is "busy" enough that you can only see them if you go looking for them and your eye is within 12" or so of the counter (photos below).

Oh, for those worried about food safety, I still don't get raw meat on the counter (though I think it would be fine as long as I cleaned up with soap and water afterwards). And we don't chop anything "stinky" like garlic or onion though we do work with other aromatics like rosemary and thyme. 15 months later and the counter has no odor of any kind.

Third, the finish. I was worried about this but in the end it's been fine. I melted some furniture-grade beeswax on the stove, added mineral oil (about 2 parts oil to 1 part wax) and let is solidify into a semi-hard paste. I rub it in, let it stand (sometimes for a few minutes, sometimes overnight), and then I buff it out.

At first I was doing this every few weeks but now I only do it every 2 months or so. I could probably stand to do it a bit more often in the quadrant I use as a cutting board, but, well, you know, life gets in the way.

For the first 6 months or so if you left a wet glass on the counter for more than a few hours we were getting drink rings. I had to lightly sand those out and rewax. But now we seem to have a deep enough coating that we haven't had a drink ring -- or any mark of any kind -- for over 6 months.

How do I clean it? A soapy sponge. Simple as that.

Ready for photos? Ok, here's the island as whole:

Take a good look at the image above. Can you see where I've prepared over 100 meals? You know -- the section where I've sliced up thousands of peppers and cucumbers and apples and peaches and melons and tomatoes and potatoes and celery and carrots and parsnips, etc, etc?

Okay, the "cutting board" area is the left side of the island, from the bottom of the photo to the sink. That 25% of the island is the designated "cutting board" section.

Yes, the board closest to the left of the photo has a lot of lines in it, but those aren't knife marks, that's "tiger-striping" in the wood -- I chose that board for there on purpose in case I needed camouflage for knife marks.

Ok, ready for a close-up of the knife marks? This photo was taken from about 8 inches away:

...looks like a cutting board, doesn't it? ;-)

So what problems do I have? Well, we have a lot of friends and cook a lot of meals together, People like to help. Once they get past the "What??! I can cut right on the counter???!?" moment I have two problems.

First, it's hard to keep them in the designated 25% that I use as a cutting board. Yes, the knife marks are subtle enough that they could probably work anywhere but I still haven't let go.

Second, these same people occasionally use a bread knife that can take some comparatively pretty big chunks out of the top. This has only happened once or twice, and with a coat of wax the marks pretty much disappear. But still, it's stressful.

Bottom line? I strongly encourage people to explore using an island top as cutting board. Second, a food-safe finish is easy! Third, I love my new kitchen. :-)


clipped on: 12.15.2012 at 10:09 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2012 at 10:09 pm

Finishing a wood countertop that WILL be used as a cutting board

posted by: petestein1 on 07.28.2009 at 11:00 pm in Kitchens Forum

So my wife and I are wrapping up a kitchen renovation. Our island top is Walnut. We intend to work right on it -- NO cutting board. So not just raw food touching the wood... food being CUT on the wood.

In looking at finishes I've come across Waterlox. I assume it's food safe from this quote on their website:


...but then I've seen a few people on this forum say they went with a different finish "because it would be a food prep surface."

So, what's the deal? Is Waterlox safe or not? And not just for food prep but for cutting on?

And what other choices do I have? I prefer not to go the mineral oil route -- just too much regular hassle.


clipped on: 12.15.2012 at 09:48 pm    last updated on: 12.15.2012 at 09:48 pm

RE: KA KUDE50CX Dishwasher (Follow-Up #5)

posted by: jmith on 02.21.2011 at 11:37 pm in Appliances Forum

kude60 is something we are buying ... debsflowers thank you for the input i was wondering why i am not going for the kude50 and the local retailer was pushing the 60 and/or 70.

Just fyi kmg67:

the kude60 comes in various flavours:

kude60FX - classic handle
kude60sx - water softner and has led/lcd at the front
kude60hx - has ultra handle that is flushed with the unit

sx and hx only come in SS.

whereas the fx comes in white, black, ss and panel ready.

the kude70 only comes in fx and only available as ss and panel ready.


clipped on: 12.13.2012 at 10:07 am    last updated on: 12.13.2012 at 10:07 am

RE: Please post pics of your wood countertop (Follow-Up #37)

posted by: pirula on 02.05.2012 at 09:29 am in Kitchens Forum

Here are mine. American cherry treated with pure tung oil and citrus solvent from the Real Milk Paint company. Totally food safe, and like nails five years later, or is it six? I've reapplied every 12-18 months. This picture is relatively recent, within the past couple of years.


Here is a link that might be useful: Real Milk Paint Co.


tung oil and citrus with sink
clipped on: 12.10.2012 at 11:38 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2012 at 11:38 pm

RE: Wood island/counter people...questions for you! (Follow-Up #13)

posted by: jw34 on 05.02.2011 at 10:03 am in Kitchens Forum

After much debate I switched from stone to wood for all counters in my kitchen reno; just preferred the warmer look of wood. Considered Ikea but stock sizes didn't work for me so have ordered a custom top from Devos (TX)( I will post photos in a few weeks when it arrives and is installed. (My fingers are crossed.)

Other custom builders recommended on the forum include:

Grothouse ( (Pennsylvania)
Brooks ( (New York)

My GC has previously used and recommend JThompson (NC) (

Things I learned in this process:

1. A custom wooden top is expensive, even when using basic woods. Oak is usually least expensive; cherry and walnut much more and exotics (lyptus, mahogany) even more. Be prepared to pay more than the cost of granite if you go the custom route.

2. You can save a lot if you are handy enough and lucky enough to be able to use stock sizes and do whatever seaming and finishing is required.

3. Ikea is by far the least expensive and most users seem very satisfied with their Ikea tops; however you will want to apply a more durable finish than the simple oil sold by Ikea. (Waterlox is popular and durable but high VOC - some folks move out after applying! I was planning to use a low VOC marine varnish.) I found a test piece of the Ikea beach to be quite pretty when finished with varnish.

4. John Boos ( makes quality tops in std sizes and a variety of woods at good prices, widely available through local dealers. (My local building supply company stocks std sizes of maple and can order others.) They offer a polyurethane type finish ('Varnique') that apparently holds up pretty well and is reportedly repairable (for those inevitable dings and scratches) with their EZ-Do finish. I wanted a different wood and thus did not choose Boos.

5. Once you move to a custom built top the price goes way up -- but it arrives ready to install. No cutting, no joining, no sanding, no finishing. Took me a while to pony up, but this was my final choice.

Hope this helps.


clipped on: 12.10.2012 at 11:04 pm    last updated on: 12.10.2012 at 11:28 pm

RE: placement of microwave oven (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: corgimum on 07.02.2012 at 04:12 pm in Kitchens Forum


clipped on: 12.07.2012 at 12:10 am    last updated on: 12.07.2012 at 12:11 am

What is the deepest drawer a kitchen should have?

posted by: TexasPenny on 12.04.2012 at 09:49 pm in Kitchens Forum

We have been playing around with our cabinet configuration and I'm stumped on how deep the deepest drawer should be. Most of the articles I've read are about how wide cabinets should be, but what about depth? I've measured almost all of our appliances and other stuff we have to store, and I've come up with 14". I don't know if that means the drawer is actually 16"...I'm just focusing on the space that will be used. Is 14 inches enough? Does anyone have drawers deeper than that to hold stuff?


clipped on: 12.05.2012 at 09:45 pm    last updated on: 12.05.2012 at 09:45 pm

Please show me your cream colored cabinets.

posted by: phoggie on 10.18.2012 at 10:18 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am considering using pearl painted cabinets in my new build and I would love to see yours.....thanks!


look at pics in followups
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 09:47 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 09:47 pm

The lowdown on Super White

posted by: karin_mt on 10.26.2012 at 07:01 pm in Kitchens Forum

I am mostly a lurker here so far, and as our kitchen remodel plans take shape I have been enjoying seeing other people's progress and taking comfort that there is a strong community of kindred spirits who like to sweat all the glorious details of a kitchen!

I'm a geologist so perusing the slab yard is always fun. Rarely do you get to see so many fascinating rocks all in one place.

So today when I picked up my backsplash tile and put down a deposit for some small slabs (a separate story), I had a great time visiting various slabs with one of the fabricators. We talked about the minerals and textures that make some rocks winners in the kitchen, and others not so good.

I asked to see some Super White, knowing there is a lack of clarity about what this rock really is. He gave me a piece to bring home and I did some diagnostics. Maybe this is common knowledge to you all, but here's the lowdown.

The rock is dolomitic marble. It's not quartzite - it's not even close to quartzite in terms or hardness or resistance to acid.

Dolomitic marble is a sibling to regular marble. Regular marble is made of calcite. Dolomite is made of calcite plus magnesium. Calcite is CaCO3 and dolomite is CaMgCO3. So this rock started out as the sedimentary rock called dolomite then was metamorphosed (heat + pressure) to cause the grains to recrystallize into dolomitic marble.

My hunch is that this marble would be slightly more resistant to etching than regular calcite marble. But it is still just as soft as marble and has all the other requirements of caring for marble. It sure is a beautiful rock. But no way will it wear like granite or quartzite.

The decorative stone industry has a whole different way of naming and classifying rocks than geologists do. (The first time someone showed me a back granite I protested loudly. There is no such thing as black granite!) But I am coming around to understand how the rocks are classified from the countertop point of view. So yes, the terms are contradictory and confusing, perhaps even deliberately so in some cases. But at least in this case I am certain of what the actual rock type is.

I hope that's helpful or illuminating. And if you have questions about the real identity or geologic history of your countertop, I may be able to shed some light!



granite science. keep reading
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 03:22 pm    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 03:22 pm

Best drawer size?

posted by: MrsPete on 12.03.2012 at 04:05 pm in Kitchens Forum

Everyone here seems to be in agreement on one subject: Drawers are the best kitchen cabinet option. I'm completely sold on the concept, but I could use some specifics:

Question 1:

What is the best drawer size? I'm sure that small drawers aren't as efficient, what with a greater proportion of the materials being used up in sides and between-drawer wood. And I worry that it'd be easy to overload (and then break) an extra-large drawer. So, my question is, Where's the sweet spot? The drawer that's just the perfect size?

I'm thinking I'll have the following:

One stack of 24" drawers
Three stacks of 30" drawers
One stack of 36" drawers
One 12" traditional cabinet, for cookie sheets and drying racks

So, I'll have an abundance of 30" drawers -- if I leave my plans as they stand now. I like the layout, so I'm hoping that 30" is an effective size.

Question 2:

What depth of drawer is best? I'm thinking that -- for looks -- the stacks should all be the same. I'm thinking that I want the bottom drawer to be good and deep; that way, in the island it could hold large pots, and next to the stove it'd be tall enough for bottles of cooking oils. And I'm thinking that the top drawer should be more shallow because it'll hold cooking utensils, etc. Am I on the right track here?

Question 3:

What are the magic words I want to speak when ordering drawers? I know that full-extension is in there, and possibly soft-close. And I know that i need to specify I want drawers that reach allll the way to the back of the cabinet rather than wasting space. I absolutely want to know that I'm getting good quality hardware that'll last.

Thanks in advance.


see advice. group my kitchen stuff by size and location and MEASURE.
clipped on: 12.04.2012 at 10:50 am    last updated on: 12.04.2012 at 10:51 am

RE: Pool Specs - fair price? Any holes that you see? (Follow-Up #4)

posted by: womanowned on 05.26.2011 at 10:03 pm in Pools & Spas Forum

You didn't mention where you are located (did you?), so, as a pool builder, it is hard to comment on the price without knowing if a regular excavator can be used, etc.
Overall, though, it seems reasonable. Like a previous poster, I would opt for variable speed pumps, because it will save you money. You could technically run everything but the cleaner on one Pentair Intelliflo VS-3050, 3 HP, 4 speed pump. You would need to use 3" plumbing on the suction side to maximum the pump efficiency, but that pump is a real energy saver. If I were you, I would also eliminate the booster pump for the cleaner and the Letro Legend cleaner and go with a robotic instead. It too will save you money in operational costs. Pentair makes a good one called the "Prowler". Go with the 720 version.


comment on a league city pool. see next post
clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 02:29 pm    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 02:29 pm

RE: Texas pool build (Follow-Up #3)

posted by: starplex on 01.01.2012 at 11:45 pm in Pools & Spas Forum

Check to see if you might save a couple hundred by changing the heater to a 350K BTU. We did and he heat up difference for the spa is less than 5 minutes difference. Also, I would highly recommend a robot cleaner over the 280. We have the Polaris 9300 and love it. But you might find it cheaper over the internet vs buying through your PB.


starplex is in beaumont
clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 02:26 pm    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 02:27 pm

RE: Exorcising old demons - how to control costs (Follow-Up #34)

posted by: parsonse on 11.27.2012 at 07:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

***The most important aspect of any contract is who is responsible when things go wrong. Make sure the contract does not make you responsible for things for which you have no control or expertise.***

This cannot be overemphasized. We've had 2 issues now where the subcontractors messed up and even though we're doing a cost plus fixed fee, my builder has eaten the cost to fix said issues.


clipped on: 12.03.2012 at 10:55 am    last updated on: 12.03.2012 at 10:55 am

White Cabinets & Trim Dilemma - What to do now?

posted by: jmcreque on 04.29.2012 at 06:50 pm in Kitchens Forum

First let me say, I have no idea how we didn't anticipate this, as looking back it seems incredibly obvious. All the trim in our house is Behr Polar Bear White. Very crisp, very white. For the kitchen cabinets we were nervous it would be TOO white, too stark, so decided to go with something "warmer". Enter BM White Dove. Samples looked great.

However, looking at it all up a few days later, we are struck by how cream the white dove looks in our kitchen, and how it is exacerbated by the brightness of the polar bear which is right next to it, given the open floor plan.

Firstly (and most noticeably) because of the double pocket doors (leading to the dining room) but also because of the trim of the opening leading into the den. From some angles the cabinets look really dingy in comparison

We're trying to figure out what our options are. Should we:

(1) re-paint the cabinets polar bear white to match all the trim <--Most expensive option.

(2) re-paint all doors and trim in the kitchen to match the white dove, so the only area that will clash will be from the den looking into the living room

(3) paint all trim the polar bear white- since the cabinets go to the ceiling, the whites will be right next to each other. I'm worried it will make the cabinets look more dingy but it is the least expensive option.

Appreciate all feedback. We feel like we really mucked this one up.


read the comments!
clipped on: 11.16.2012 at 10:31 am    last updated on: 11.16.2012 at 10:31 am

RE: Quiet & powerful range hood (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: SparklingWater on 09.01.2012 at 02:36 pm in Appliances Forum

Look at Best by Broan, Modernaire, Zypher, Wolf (formerly Independent) and perhaps Kobe. There are many others too. Consider an exterior fan (adjusted in cfm's by duct length loss to your cooking machine) as well as a Fantech silencer if you can swing it with your purchase.

Here's a recent GW thread on this matter. Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Will the range hood be loud?


clipped on: 11.10.2012 at 01:44 pm    last updated on: 11.10.2012 at 01:45 pm

RE: Which appliances - $5k budget (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: deeageaux on 02.23.2012 at 09:30 pm in Appliances Forum

Samsung RF266AERS $1609 delivered
JD Powers #1 rated for French Door fridges 5 years in a row.

Frigidaire Professional Series FPET3085KF $1854 delvired

Bosch 500 Series DLX SHX55RL5UC $684 delivered
46db Quitest in class.
JD Powers #2 for DWers. #1 much more expensive.

Frigidaire Professional Series FPGC3685KS $855 delivered.

Broan RP136SS $308 delivered.

Total $5310 plus any cheap Sharp/Panasonic MW from Sears/Home Depot.

I suppose you could cut from the DW budget some but sacrifice quite a bit of quiet and/or reduce from ovens budget but sacrifice some very usefull features. I would stick to above as it is close to ~$5k.


clipped on: 11.10.2012 at 09:28 am    last updated on: 11.10.2012 at 09:28 am

Large pantry remodel - WWYD???

posted by: celticmoon on 11.02.2012 at 12:33 pm in Kitchens Forum

In this house 14 plus years. Still content with my 2006 cosmetic gelstain/Marmoleum/Viking update of the 1987 kitchen. But the pantry would truly benefit from refitting.

After too many years, I have finally found a wonderful carpenter/handyman. He is reliable, his work is excellent and very reasonable - but he really had me at "I was cleaning the bathroom last night with my 18 month old son..." OK, you win the perfect man prize. I am happy to employ you.

This pantry narrows into a wedge at the back. Any thoughts on how to deal creatively with the wedge? Moving the entrance would fix the access issue, but that means kitchen cabinets, flooring and massive project creep.

Here's the floor plan

Right now there are 5 too deep (15") shelves plunked in there 18 inches apart. I have a pot rack high on the left as you enter above a hamper storing dog food. Along the long angled right wall there is a rail for hanging table linens, then a hanger holding brooms, mops etc.

The deepest part of the pantry is difficult to access. I do not have a dedicated utility closet. Do you think I could section off the deep corner for that somehow? A reach-in back there?

The space is large - over 26 linear feet of wall space there. But very inefficient as is:


keep reading--shallow shelves, lazy susans in corners, peg board, adjustable shelves
clipped on: 11.06.2012 at 11:59 am    last updated on: 11.06.2012 at 11:59 am

What color are your ceilings?

posted by: bowyer123 on 10.14.2012 at 07:49 pm in Building a Home Forum

We are nearing the end of our build. The contractor had us look at a completed house where the ceilings were painted (I forget the name of the color) an off white to slightly yellow-ish-tan color. I looked good with the tan walls and Swiss Coffee trim so we said we liked it. He painted our vaulted living room on Friday and stopped.

We went to the house today and it seems more yellow than we expected. I understand it 'pops' because our drywall isn't painted and the mud is very white. He likes the tinyed ceiling color because it adds warmth and will let the crown molding show up better versus a white ceiling.

I called another friend who builds high-end spec as well as custom homes ($700K) and he says all of his work has been using plain, ceiling white ceilings. He like the brightness, the timelessness and the decorating flexibility of the plain white.

At some point I could paint the bedroom ceilings if we decided we wanted to go that route, but the vaulted area and kitchen is just too a job for me to do on my own, plus I figure now is the time to get it right.

All this to ask....what are your ceiling colors? Are you happy with 'ceiling white' or should I consider a slightly tinted color up there?

Thoughts? Thanks!


see followups about choosing 2 steps lighter for ceiling or adding 1/4/ or 1/2 tint to white for ceiling.
clipped on: 10.16.2012 at 03:02 pm    last updated on: 10.16.2012 at 03:03 pm

Help me choose a wall oven

posted by: Carda on 10.10.2012 at 05:19 am in Appliances Forum

I am wavering between the Electrolux Pro 30 and the GE Profile. (The Monogram is just a little too expensive, though I like its looks.) I'd like to spend $2500 or less.
Any suggestions? Reliability is a priority!


clipped on: 10.14.2012 at 03:46 pm    last updated on: 10.14.2012 at 03:46 pm

RE: Blower Door Test (Follow-Up #6)

posted by: Laura12 on 06.20.2012 at 04:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

What is the point of doing a blower door test after the drywall is up? I have no idea what Energy Star standards are, however we plan on having the blower door test before the drywall goes up so we can walk around the house and caulk any identified problem areas.

After the drywall is up all it can really do is tell you how tight the house is it doesn't really give you the opportunity to correct many issues.


blower door test before drywall. few hundred bucks. finds real leaks
clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 10:28 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 10:28 pm

RE: Fixed Price - Should I have allowances? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: tooskinneejs on 05.18.2012 at 12:38 pm in Building a Home Forum

The answer to your question depends in large part on the extent to which you have specified in the contract and design documents the finishes for your project.

Using appliances as an example, if your contract specifies the exact appliance models (i.e., GE 36" model ABC123) and their quantities, then no, you don't need to have dollar allowances. The builder will price the specified items and include them in his fixed price contract.

If finishes are not specified, then yes, you should certainly have a dollar amount allowance for you to spend on that finish category. For example, if your contract just said the builder will provide two front porch lights but didn't specify the exact model or give you an allowance, he could literally buy the cheapest two lights and install them and technically meet his obligations under the contract. In this case, you'd want to specify the exact model up front OR get a dollar allowance so that you could decide later.

Obviously, if you get allowances, you'll want to really think about the amounts and determine whether they are sufficient.

I would also recommend your contract stipulates that the allowance amounts be interchangible (i.e., you can use the entire pot of allowance money to cover the entire list of allowance items in any way you wish to allocate the funds) and that you get credited for any allowance amounts unused (not that this will happen, realistically).

I would also recommend that the language regarding allowances is clear on whether the amounts relate to materials or to both materials and installation and related supplies. Kitchen counters is a good example - this allowance would usually include both materials and installation. Tile is another example of one that could be a grey area unless you are specific - in other words, does the tile allowance include (1) just the tile, (2) tile and materials (grout, sealant, adhesive, etc.), or tile, materials and labor?

Lots of things to think about, but you'll save yourself a lot of headache and heartache if you think this through ahead of time.

Good luck!


clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 10:10 pm    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 10:10 pm

RE: Feeling ganged up on (Follow-Up #11)

posted by: Renovator8 on 06.02.2012 at 10:09 am in Building a Home Forum

I haven't read all of this thread but I wanted to repeat what I have said many time on this forum: an Allowance section in a contract should contain the right of the Owner to delete it and supply the material for the contractor to install. Also Allowances should only be for the material and installation should be included in the base contract price.

Not following these Allowance precautions leaves an Owner at the mercy of typical contractor "sweetheart" deals with his favorite suppliers and subs. In this situation GC discounts and even kickbacks are not unusual. It's difficult to say if this additional cost to the Owner is fair or not since the GC is likely to have figured the additional profit in his original bid.

I can't tell you more without seeing the actual wording in your contract regarding Allowances.

Since carpet is the last item to be installed and the pricing at stores is so competitive, most of my clients ask to exclude it from the contractor's work altogether.


clipped on: 10.13.2012 at 08:58 am    last updated on: 10.13.2012 at 08:58 am

RE: who loves their porcelain wood tile floors? (Follow-Up #2)

posted by: swtsae on 07.02.2012 at 01:04 pm in Flooring Forum

We recently put the porcelain Wood tile in our house we love em. They turned out great. Ours are darker than the picture shows (the picture was taken with a lot of light and with a flash). The tiles are 6x24 and have a hand-scraped texture to them.

Things to consider, look for a very "true" tile or if it states "rectified" These tiles are notorious for being warped/cupped/bowed and if not laid correctly could show some lippage.

The tile that we bought although not "rectified" were very true, all the same width. The installers said they had never seen such true plank style tiles. The tile we bought also had a slight beveled edge which gives it more of a true "wood floor" look. The tiles were laid with a 1/16in. joint which if you do not have a "straight" tile will be a pain or nearly impossible.

Here is a link to the pics scroll down toward the bottom

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Look Tile


clipped on: 10.09.2012 at 11:17 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2012 at 11:17 pm

RE: Porcelain tiles that look like wood (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: swtsae on 05.17.2012 at 02:22 pm in Flooring Forum

We just finished the install of our porcelain plank wood tiles. We love em, and think they turned out great.



clipped on: 10.09.2012 at 11:16 pm    last updated on: 10.09.2012 at 11:16 pm

RE: What pump are you using? (Follow-Up #1)

posted by: coastal_concepts on 12.09.2011 at 12:50 pm in Pools & Spas Forum

As a pool contractor I can say with confidence that the person who told you that Hayward will last longer is completely full of it. Dont get me wrong Hayward makes a decent product but not even the nice folks at Hayward would make that claim. Hayward represents the lower end, cost and quality, for pool equipment - which IS what most pool owners want. Cheap and gets the job done.

That being said the Pentair pump is better. Period. Higher quality components, better design, more longevity but a higher price tag.

The only solid advice for pump selection these days is to purchase a variable speed pump. If you can crunch the numbers of cost to run a variable speed pump - either Hayward Ecostar or Pentair VS will the the cheapest way to go in the long run. Also better for the planet =)

Be careful though as both manufacturers require a 2" suction with a specific installation at the suction side of the pump. You must have 5x the pipe diameter in a straight run in front of the pump with no obstructions (valves, fittings) or risk cavitating the pump and likely burning it out early. Dont trust your pool guy to know this.

In bad cases where these pumps are installed on older plumbing systems with insufficient pipe diameter the pumps will not come out of error mode as they are starved for water.

I actually wrote a pool pump comparison article that looks at these two brands, Hayward vs Pentair already that you might be interested in. It goes into a little more detail than I can cover here including pump noise, bearing failure etc.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pool pump reviews


clipped on: 10.07.2012 at 03:39 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2012 at 03:39 pm

RE: Pool Vacuums (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: poolguynj on 09.29.2012 at 06:45 am in Pools & Spas Forum

Suction side sends the debris to the pump basket and filter.
Suction side tends to be slow moving.
Suction side usually is connected to a skimmer.
Suction side usually requires suction valve changes at the pad.

Pressure side with a booster pump move faster.
Pressure side with a booster pump normally have their own debris bag which keeps stuff out of the filter.
Pressure side with a booster pump can handle larger pools.
Pressure side with a booster pump will use some more electricity because of the booster but this is only for a short period (usually under 2 hours).
Pressure side with a booster pump have a thinner hose attached to the sweep from the wall.

Pressure side without a booster and suction side cleaners have a wider diameter hose.
Pressure side without a booster normally run off the primary pool pump's exhaust port's unfiltered water to a small screen filter that needs to be cleaned frequently.



clipped on: 10.07.2012 at 03:32 pm    last updated on: 10.07.2012 at 03:32 pm

RE: Small things that get forgotten (Follow-Up #57)

posted by: Laura12 on 06.03.2012 at 01:19 pm in Building a Home Forum

All the suggestions posted on this thread have been so valuable, though I'm sure many of you (like myself) find your head spinning with all the ideas, so I just sat down and categorized them all!

Closet & Organization
- Plugs in several closets
- Make sure your closet has enough space for both double hung rods, and singles to accomadate long clothes
- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
- More closet/linen space than you think you'll need
- Cubbies in mudroom with an outlet in each one
- Motion sensor on pantry and closet lights

- Plug in master toilet closet for night light
- Outlets inside vanity cabinets (upper and lower) in bathroom for dryer etc.
- Heated towels racks
- Don't caulk the bottom of your toilet to the tile to hide potential leaks
- Make use of the pony wall in a bathroom by turning it into storage.
- Vac pans for hair
- Appliance garage on counter

- Run conduit under the driveway for future wiring or plumbing needs
- Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor
- Ensure you have hose outlets and power on all 4 sides of your house, and on top of any raised areas
- Hot/cold outdoor water is good for washing pets
- Motion sensor pre-wire for selected exterior lights
- Keypad entry on garage door (Keypad entry on front door is great as well)
- Gas line to grill

- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
- Recess the fridge
- With wide islands put cabinets on the both sides. While they are not easy to get to, they are good for storing seldomly used items.
- Built in paper towel holder
- Custom storage organization in kitchen drawers
- Warming drawer in dining room
- Pantry entrance near both kitchen and garage
- Custom shelves and a place to plug in appliances in pantry
- Plugs above cabinets for Christmas lighting
- Set up for both gas and electric appliances
- Pantry door on swivel
- Pantry light on motion sensor
- Copper tubing for your ice maker from the freezer and until it's out of the kitchen wall
- Drawer microwave
- Knife drawer
- Pull-out garbage/recycling/laundry (for dirty dish towels/napkins/bibs!)
- Paper towel holder in drawer slot
- Drawers for all lower cabinets (more efficient use of space)
- Two soap pumps at sink (one for handsoap, one for dish soap)
- Easy-access place to store frequently used appliances
- place to hang hand towels & aprons

Electrical & Plumbing
- Prewire security system & cameras
- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
- Run a 2" PVC pipe up from the basement to the attic for future wiring needs, some suggested double conduits.
- Seperate 20z circut with outlets at waist height in garage to plug in tools
- Seperate 20z ciructe for TV and a/v equipment
- Identify areas for low voltage can/rack
- Pre-wring for music and speakers, inside and outside
- iPad controllers in the walls to control whole house music systems
- Pre-wire for generator to essential areas
- Carbon monozide unit on the wall upstairs
- Make sure plumbing in bathrooms are done correctly. One commenter's toilet was placed too close to the tub pipes so I couldn't get the deeper tub because they didn't allow room.
- Cast iron pipes for the plumbing drops from the second floor cuts down on noise
- Take pictures of all the walls before Sheetrock went up so you knew where all the wiring was in case you needed to add or change anything.
- Include a 220V to garage (tools, future electric car etc)
- Measure the location of anything under the slab, and various utilities out in the yard.
- Run an electrical line with a few floor outlets, especially since we have very open floor plan and couch sets are not against a wall
- Plumbed for a built-in drinking fountain,

- Light switch to the attic in the hallway (and remember lights in attic in general)
- Solar tubes in areas that don�t get natural sunlight
- In cabinet lights and outside lights on timers
- Make sure you check the cost ratings of ceiling fans
- Check all remotes for ceiling fans prior to construction completion
- 3 way switches where helpful
- Master switch from master that controls all exterior lights
- A master switch at each exit (Front, back or garage), that turns off all of the power to the switches/lights in the house, so that you can turn off all lights without going to each room and/or light switch.

- 4 plug outlets near the bed in the master
- A light switch at the head of your bed so you can turn out the light once you are in bed.

- Plugs under eaves for holiday lights, with a switch inside to turn on and off.
- Enough storage for Christmas decorations
- Seasonal closet with hangers for wreaths, and space for rubbermaid storage boxes.
- Plugs for Christmas lights: over cabinets, in stairway, in porch ceiling, under eaves

Heating, Cooling, and Vacuums
- Central Vac with vac pans, if you have hardwood floors - get a Hideahose
- Plan where furnace vents will go instead of letting the builder decide
- Hepa filtration for allegergy sufferers
- WarmFloors heating

- Read Myron Ferguson has a book out, "Better Houses, Better Living"
- Receptacles for fire extinguishers. Maybe plan some cutouts so they are flush to the wall.
- Where possible pocket doors
- Secondary dryer lint trap
- Soundproofing where needed
- Stairs from garage to basement
- A phone by the door leading into the garage for those pesky calls when you are getting in or out of the car
- An inside button to open and close your garage door for when guests arrive and its raining.
- Additional support during framing on the top side of windows for curtains
- Power outage flashlights and keep in outlets around around house. Recess these into the space with each fire extinguisher.
- Mailbox sensor to alert you whenever your mailbox is opened so that you're not running out of the house checking for mail when it's not there.
- Ensure builders don't "box" off spaces, where storage or shelving could go
- Make copies of manuals prior to installation and give the builder the copies so you can keep the originals.
- Minimal walls, and lots of windows.
- A laundry room. Not just a hall, or closet, a room.
- Spindles and hand rail made that can be removed for moving furniture
- Handicapped accessible.
- Plan an elevator shaft in case you want to install one later, in the meantime it will serve as storage closets.

- Plan a specific place for your dog food,
- Place for the kitty box,
- Place for dogs to be bathed
- place for dog crates
- Exhaust fan in laundry room for litterbox

Regional considerations:
- an ante-room, with coatracks and shoe storage, and a way to keep the heat in.
- An entrance to the basement from outside for salt delivery, repair men etc so they don't track thru your house.
- storm shelter to weather the threats your area faces.
- a mosquito system and
- little covered niche for bear spray at/near each entry.
- Drain in the garage to get rid of the excess water quicker from vehicles after it snows
- Pest line (brand name Taexx) a small tube is run around the perimeter of the home through the framing, and then pest control can spray within it.


clipped on: 10.06.2012 at 10:12 pm    last updated on: 10.06.2012 at 10:12 pm

RE: Area Rugs on Hardwood Floors (Follow-Up #8)

posted by: gardenchick1 on 02.06.2008 at 03:28 pm in Flooring Forum

Regarding the carpet pads -- we have Brazilian Teak floors with several area rugs throughout. When we recently had one of our area rugs picked up to get cleaned we noticed that the pad underneath (which was a thin foam) had stuck to the floor and left a slight gummy residue. It took quite a bit of elbow grease to remove. This is a similar pad that you find at BBB or many other stores that sell inexpensive area rugs.

When we checked the pad underneath one of our other rugs we noticed a different pad made of felt which had not left any residue. So my advice is to get a good quality felt pad so as to not ruin your floors. We didn't not choose our pads -- the dealers who sold us the rugs brought their own hence the different types in our home.


clipped on: 10.03.2012 at 03:29 pm    last updated on: 10.03.2012 at 03:29 pm