Clippings by eleeny
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RE: How do you clean your ss appliances? (Follow-Up #1)
If you can find it near you (or order online): 3M's SS Cleaner and Polish aerosol spray works well (thank you once again to rococogurl for the suggestion--we also use it on our KA fridge). Spray it on a cloth or micro fiber cloth, wipe on (covering all SS surfaces), and then buff in/off with dry part of the cloth, or a fresh cloth. It's approved by the NSF as being safe to use around food, and I use it on my SS sink a few times a week to repel or cut down on water spotting.
For scrubbing off "gook" and cooked on food, you can use some BKF (Bar Keepers Friend) on a blue scrub sponge, and then remove powdery residue with wet/damp sponge or paper towel, and then follow up with the SS spray.
<none>clipped on: 08.21.2009 at 10:37 pm last updated on: 08.21.2009 at 10:37 pm
RE: Which ranges and cooktops have their big burners in the back? (Follow-Up #3)
My GE Profile electric cooktop (PP962SMSS) has the largest burner (3 options) in the middle. There are two 7" ribbons on the left side (w/a bridge b/w them) and a warming element in the upper right & second largest (2 options) on the bottom right. The burners I use the most are the largest one and the 7" one on the upper left...so they would all fit under a shallower hood.
<none>clipped on: 08.20.2009 at 04:28 pm last updated on: 08.20.2009 at 04:28 pm
RE: Which ranges and cooktops have their big burners in the back? (Follow-Up #5)
My 24" deep hood is mounted about 32" above my 37" high counters, so 5'9" off the floor. I'm 5'8" and dh is 5'11", we have no problems. I have a Capital GCR305 gas range that extends out into the kitchen quite a bit compared to a drop-in cooktop where you stand right up against the counter, so take that into consideration when judging headroom.
My largest burner is in the center, but all the burners are pretty powerful.
<none>clipped on: 08.20.2009 at 04:26 pm last updated on: 08.20.2009 at 04:27 pm
BPA free water bottles
Do you use one? If so, any recommendations? I have been using a plastic Rubbermaid bottle I bought from the store. Been hearing stuff about the plastic not being good etc and so forth so I'm considering buying a something else.
I do like the cap on the one I have. You can basically just dump it into your mouth, but the opening is only about the size of a quarter. Most of the BPA free water bottles I'm seeing has those suction caps and I don't want funky lines around my mouth as I age.
<none>clipped on: 08.16.2009 at 07:19 pm last updated on: 08.16.2009 at 07:19 pm
RE: Any advice LG or Samsung (Follow-Up #17)
We purchased the Samsung set in "Tango" red just a couple of weeks ago and LOVE them! I did a lot of research through various publications and online forums like this one. I think the LG set scores a little better with some magazines, but not on the things we do most (wash and dry normal clothes, all of my suits, shirts, etc are dry cleaned). It came down to how I liked the operation of the Samsung units and how they looked. We haven't tried the "Silver Care" feature yet so I can't comment on it. We purchased the set at Lowes and DID opt for the 5-Year extended warranty. It was only $160 for the PAIR, which with pedestals, tax and incidentals came to about $2,900. Surely that's a king's ransom for a washer/dryer combination, but the regret of spending so much has quickly faded, and now we're left with a spectacular set of appliances.
I was **STUNNED** at how quiet the washer was. I thought something had to be wrong with it and was all bummed out that we'd gotten a DOA unit. I heard the sloshing of water, but no drum rotation. To my surprise the drum WAS rotating. Even high-speed spin is quiet. It sounds like the Six Million Dollar Man running faster and faster (dating myself).
However, the dryer is your typically noisy unit. I think Samsung blew their R&D budget on the washer and just made the dryer look like it matches. Nothing special about it, though it has a number of spiffy features that most others likely have.
I really wanted the Bosch Platinum set, but couldn't get over the useless, TINY pedestals and the two WEEK delivery time.
I spent about a couple of hours going over the LG Tromm and they were very nice, but my personal preference was the Samsung pair, and I'm happy with my decision. They may be a little more, but they're worth it.
BTW, both LG and Samsung are based in Korea. LG is actually Goldstar, which used to be a peddler of junk and couldn't make a quality product to save their lives. Samsung wasn't far behind and made enough trash of their own as well. However, they both have turned into world-class manufacturers of some benchmark, high quality products.
Five years ago I wouldn't have touched anything either of them made. Now at least Samsung was my first choice, and I actually paid more for them then I would have the Bosch.
<none>clipped on: 08.07.2009 at 10:57 am last updated on: 08.07.2009 at 10:57 am
RE: Please Help... home inspection report (Follow-Up #37)
Nancy is spot on. GIve them the full list and add in the extras suggested by lyfia.
I have a feeling the seller specifically stated they would not be nickled and dimed because they knew about alot of the water issues.
Make sure there is specific mention of the mould problems and the remediation and inspection thereafter - of course, all done by contractors of YOUR choice and allowing for an inspection of everything once it's done.
These people will not agree to this. Do not budge. Do not negotiate. That is your out.
What is also interesting is will they not have to disclose this in their next disclosure when this deal falls through?
Dont' forget to include all relevant photos in the counter about the HI.
I'm really sorry you're going through this, but you need to make sure you get this response back to them in time.
<none>clipped on: 09.21.2007 at 01:44 pm last updated on: 09.21.2007 at 01:44 pm
My realtor took me to some builder's homes today and I've read just bits and pieces of pros and cons about builder's homes. I know they don't come with fences, blinds or appliances. Anything else I might need to know? Thanks!
<none>clipped on: 09.21.2007 at 01:40 pm last updated on: 09.21.2007 at 01:40 pm
RE: Please Help... home inspection report (Follow-Up #35)
Here you go... cut and paste as needed.
The dishwasher was not securely attached to the kitchen counter top and moved when the door was open.
There were water stains observed on the ceiling materials in the kitchen and the master bedroom.
The dishwasher was leaking, apparently at the seal of the door.
The game room patio door screen was damaged.
The window operating hardware was not fully functional at two of the windows in the game room and should be repaired.
Some of the cranks for the window operating hardware were missing.
There appeared to be a water stain at the family room ceiling, near the right side of the fireplace.
The lockset at the back patio door was not fully functional and was in need of adjustment.
The arched window at the master bedroom appeared to be cloudy, however, it could have been dirty. After cleaning, the window should be checked for any moisture between the insulated glass.
Open electrical wiring was observed in the cabinets on the left wall of the back patio foyer.
The GFCI receptacle at the master bathroom ceiling was "hot", however, it was not providing ground fault protection and should be replaced.
The master bathroom shower faucets were leaking at the handle.
These water stains could be from the installation of the wallpaper border. Please check with the seller.
The commode at the master bathroom was leaking at the floor seal.
One of the window screens a the family room was damaged.
This electrical switch (I think in the dining room) was not fully functional and should be replaced.
The refrigerant line at the HVAC coil unit in the attic space was not fully covered with insulation, which could cause condensation to drip on the ceiling below.
Slight water intrusion from the cracked flashing component at the plumbing vent stacks.
There was an unused "hot" wire observed in the attic space.
There was a water stain observed in the attic space over the master bathroom closet.
There was a water stain observed on the basement ceiling.
This electrical receptacle in the basement was not securely attached to the outlet box.
The heat exchanger at the first level gas furnace was rusting. A licensed HVAC technician
The refrigerant line at the HVAC coil unit in the basement space was not fully covered with insulation, which could cause condensation to drip on the floor.
This electrical receptacle at the basement was wiring with the hot/neutral wires reversed.
A section of the driveway was deteriorated and appeared to be a safety concern.
There was open electrical wiring observed in the basement on the wall opposite the main water valve.
The flashing components were not properly installed where the back deck attaches to the structure and was allowing water to penetrate into the ceiling structure of the room below.
The caulking was inadequate at the windows and doors that were installed in the brick veneer.
There was excessive vegetation observed at the right side of the structure.
The steel angle irons over the windows and doors at the brick veneer were rusting.
The refrigerant line at the exterior HVAC units was not fully covered with insulation.
The HVAC condensation lines were exiting at the foundation wall, contributing moisture to the foundation wall area.
The roof surface water was being directed toward the driveway, which was a safety concern.
There were through the brick type cracks observed at the back side of the structure near the garage door opening. These cracks did not appear to be structurally significant at the time of the inspection, however, they should be sealed and monitored for any further movement.
The roof surface water was being directed toward the walkway, which was a safety concern.
The hand railing at the back deck was loose.
The HVAC units at the right exterior were not installed in a level position.
The rubber gaskets at the plumbing vent stack pipes were cracked and should be replaced or repaired to help prevent water intrusion into the attic space.
The metal flashing components at the brick chimney were lifting and in need or repair and sealing.
The exterior door sills were not caulked to help prevent water intrusion.
Check for typos and spelling, I haven't had more than a couple hours of sleep. This was soothing work as we wait to hear how DH's dad is doing at the hospital.
<none>clipped on: 09.21.2007 at 01:38 pm last updated on: 09.21.2007 at 01:38 pm
RE: Please Help... home inspection report (Follow-Up #25)
I'm not sure backing out is an option. Here's what our contract says:
"These inspections must be performed and buyer must submit in writing to seller or seller's agent within 20 days of contract acceptance, a list of any repairs from inspection report(s) needed to bring the inspected item(s) to their standard operating condition. A request for a monetary allowance without a list of repairs will not constitute compliance with this request. Failure to submit a list of repairs to seller or seller's agent in writing within said time shall constitute a waiver of this inspection clause and an acceptance of the property in its "as is" condition. The time frame established in this paragraph is an absolute deadline.
Repairs submitted in compliance with the paragraph above shall be negotiated in good faith within 4 days of buyer submitting repairs to seller and/or seller's agent. If buyer and seller cannot agree on repairs, this contract is voidable at the option of either party with earnest money refunded to buyer. If upon failure to agree upon repairs, either party gives notice of intent to void the contract, then the other party shall, within 3 days of receipt of notice, have the right to: If Seller, agrees to make the necessary repairs, or if Buyer, accepts the property in its as-is condition."
We only have 4 days left until our "list" is due. The inspector had technical difficulties and his report was delayed. We still don't even have the full report; just the list of concerns.
<none>clipped on: 09.21.2007 at 01:29 pm last updated on: 09.21.2007 at 01:29 pm
RE: Please Help... home inspection report (Follow-Up #34)
I find it interesting that your inspection contingency clause basically gives the seller all of the leverage in this transaction. In the D.C. metro area, it is completely reversed. The boilerplate standard inspection contingency clause states that the buyer in his or her sole discretion can determine whether the inspection was satisfactory. If the inspector comes up with even just one minor issue then the buyer can simply walk if he wants to. If the buyer wants to follow through with the purchase then he can give the seller the option of fixing the problem or providing buyer with the money to do so. It is not until then that the seller has any input into whether the contract will be ratified. Once the buyer gives the seller the list, the seller can then either correct the problem(s) or refuse to do so. If the seller chooses not to correct the problem(s), then the buyer once again has the right to cancel the contract.
<none>clipped on: 09.21.2007 at 01:22 pm last updated on: 09.21.2007 at 01:23 pm
Limited electrical wiring in new house... Please help!
Not knowing much about electrical wiring, I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure things out. Thank God for this forum!
We're buying a new construction house - dry walls are up and kitchen cabinets have been installed. The builder has planned $10K USD for GE Monogram built-in appliances, to include a 42" fridge, 36" electric cooktop, 30" double wall ovens, and 24" dishwasher. There's a microwave shelf, but he won't provide the unit.
One of his selling points was that I could customize the appliances and just pay for any price difference. However, with the electrical wiring he has there, it appears that the answer is "NO!" for everything that I've asked for!
I would like to have a garbage disposal under the sink (and maybe a hot-water dispenser as well, but that's less important), but there are no electrical connections under the sink.
Instead of the double wall ovens (I don't bake), I'd like to have just one single oven, and another appliance (such as a combi steam oven) in place of the 2nd oven. However, he only has ONE big electrical wire (240V) there. There is a microwave shelf with 120V wiring in the island.
When I asked about additional electrical wiring, the builder said it would cost me thousands to get another 240V into the oven cabinet area... Do you think that's reasonable, or grossly marked up? Is it's worth the money to "do it right" now, since we'll be stuck with it for years to come? What about getting a recessed outlet under the sink for the disposal and hot water dispenser - how hard and how expensive is that to do?
I know virtually nothing about electrical wiring, so please tell me if this will work - Get a combination unit with one microwave and one 30" convection oven for the space where the double ovens would have one. Do they make those with just 1 electrical connection for both appliances? Then, can I put the Gaggenau combi steam oven on the "microwave shelf" where there's only 120V wiring? If so, I'd give up the warming drawer. (I've tried to ask the builder about these issues, but he acts like I should just be happy with his original plans!)
If I will pay for the additional wiring, what is the cheapest/easiest configuration so that I can still get all the appliance I need in there? Ideally, the appliances I'd LOVE to have in the kitchen include 1 conventional oven, 1 microwave, 1 steam oven, 1 warming drawer, 1 garbage disposal, and 1 hot drinking water dispenser. (And of course a refrigerator, cooktop, and dishwasher, but those have been wired properly without any issues to discuss here.)
Well, thanks in advance for your help!
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 06:56 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 06:56 pm
RE: What was your best bathroom remodeling decision? (Follow-Up #4)
First mistake "do'nt gut it". Gut it and second, use a vapor barrier under the cement board, do'nt use greenboard. The rusted nails will tell you where the vapor barrier and cement board prefer to go, I would just put the vapor lock everywhere, use half inch boards. You can use 6 mil plastic or roofing felt as barrier under boards, stapled. I like roofing, a little better insulation sound/thermal.
Cement board is a sponge, if that bothers you do what I did, use a cement board sealer around the shower/pullman area Depot has it. I used epoxy that I get cheap, 80 dollars for 1.5 gallon. That stops moisture before the board and not after.
Next stop tub. Cast iron equals quiet and thermal insulation it memorizes heat, (not drumlike with no echoes) Kohler Villager is cheapest; I say mistake. It is 14 inches tall so beware of a too little tub. I got the Toto 1525 at Express Pipe here in southern cal, 554 dollars. the tub iron is twice as thick as Kohlers I saw also, the glaze is smoother. 2 people can install it (the ground is the third person, roll the tub in end over end or just shuffle it in) 381 pounds but not heavy as you think.
Vanity, ebay has good glass/metal ones, will not absorb odors, lifetime product, under 500 with all hardware, faucets.
The toilet must do one thing foremost, flush. try the Toto Drake and if not the Ultramax will give you much more room. Express pipe or Homeclick. There are some horrible toilets out their beware, get a commercial one, Toto G max for instance.
Porcelain is king on tile, Ceramic is ok, check the grade (1-5) Marble is ok for a bathroom floor awesome visually. I would use 1/8 grout line porcelain on shower with sanded grout. Unsanded might shrink. Keep sponge dry, use caulk in tile corners, do not use premix wet mastic under tile, use powdered thinset with latex additive.
You might want to leave in the cieling when you gut.
You might want to get some kilz and paint the studs around the shower area if moisture problems were evident.
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 05:08 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 05:08 pm
RE: Induction Cookware (Follow-Up #44)
I was at the Thermador/Gaggenau Showroom recently and met their corporate chef. I asked him just this question. His opinion was that All-Clad, while popular, is not his brand of choice. Demeyere probably makes the highest quality of cookware available for induction cooktops, but they do cost an arm and a leg. His recommendation for best value is the Sitram Magnum line, which is made with induction in mind. This is all FWIW, since I haven't tried any of the above personally yet. (We're still trying to decide which brand of induction cooktop we're going to buy!)
As far as woks, he commented that the gorgeous shiny Demeyere wok that was on display (and cost several hundred bucks) is probably overkill for most people. His words were, "Just go to Chinatown and find a cheap steel wok for $10 or so. They'll work great on your induction cooktop!" Apparently, a round bottom wok is perfectly fine, as he explained to me. You'll need to find a pretty shallow wok ring. The wok does NOT have to come into direct contact with the cooktop, but should be very close to it.
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 05:03 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 05:03 pm
RE: Monogram Advantium 240V and one other oven needed (Follow-Up #7)
Gizmonike - I've been obsessed with ovens for months! Part of my decision on the Monogram was budget but I think the Monogram gets high marks for most things, including a not-noisy fan. Good value and a separate customer service from the rest of GE. BUT the clincher was that I really fell in love with the Monogram's full extension shelves and that did it for me! I considered Dacor but there were too many problems with those ovens and the Electrolux is an unknown quantity, despite the full extension shelves.
I don't need trivection - and anyway, I've heard it may be discontinuted because it is not selling well. People are buying MW/convections or speedcook second ovens - and many people need or want two ovens, so the Trivection may be overkill for a single oven.
I've lived with a plain old horrible 20 year old Whirlpool gas range with an oven that runs cool, the self-clean doesn't work any more, and now the pilot light goes out unless it is at 400 degrees or more.
I have to have an undercounter oven (unfortunately) because I only have a 27" place to put ovens in the wall. So, the 120 advantium will go at counter height and I expect to use it most of the time - it's just the two of us. Meanwhile I expect to be obsessed with fridges next!
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 03:41 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 03:42 pm
RE: DH says I don't need a warming drawer.... (Follow-Up #34)
What about the newer warming drawers with the convection feature? Is that necessary? (Costs quite a bit more than the "standard" warming drawers.)
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 03:01 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 03:01 pm
Size of cabinet for Wolf 36' cooktop
I need some help -----
I wanted to get the Wolf 36" gas cooktop (dropin). But it
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 02:59 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 03:00 pm
Odd dishwashing question
I have all the appliances for our new kitchen except dishwasher. I haven't bought the dishwasher yet because I absolutely cannot decide on one.
I hear such great things about Bosch and Miele but have been thinking all this time that we really want (DH says NEED) a DW with the food grinder in it.
Here's my confusion... I load the dishwasher... only me. We have no kids so it's just DH and me. Everyone says that in order to use the european models, you have to "scrape" your dishes. Can anyone give me any idea just how clean the dishes have to be before putting them in the european dishwashers?
We currently have a DW with a food grinder and I have to say that I never throw what I would consider to be chunks of food in our dishwasher. I throw big chunks in the trash and the dishes go in the DW, sometimes with lots of sauce or small bits on them, but not huge food particles.
Basically I don't want to be pre-washing dishes for a european dishwasher, but if I could put them in the way I'm currently used to loading ours, I'd be happy. I think the european model would be good for us because we're on septic and I think they're more conservative with water, and quieter, but I'm definitely not a pre-washer.
Sorry for the weird question!
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 02:53 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 02:53 pm
RE: Is there a dual-fuel gas-induction cooktop? (Follow-Up #3)
I only have space for a 36" cooktop... So, if I go with the 1 or 2 burner modular hobs, and I think they're usually about 15" wide, I'd end up only being able to fit a max of 3 or 4 burners in my 36" area, right? Seems like people who have the modular hobs usually have a lot more cooktop space available to begin with?
I love the idea of having a gas hob, an induction hob, a grill, etc. But realistically, how much room do I need to create a reasonable cooking area for a family of 5?
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:51 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:51 pm
Combi Steam Convection Oven -- Plumbed or Reservoir?
I've been eating up the posts on the Combi... Seems like so many happy owners who use it everyday!
Question on whether to buy the plumbed version, or the new one which has a reservoir:
It will cost quite a bit more for us to get the plumbing to the oven area, but the Gaggenau salesman said that hooking it up to a water supply and a drain hose would be so much easier in terms of cleaning, since you just have to turn on the steam-clean feature, and the oven will clean and drain itself - you won't even have to wipe it down after use! Combi owners -- is that true?
Has anyone tried the version that uses the water pitcher/reservoir? How is it? Do you ever run out of water in the middle of your cooking? Is it very annoying to use and to clean up?
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:50 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:50 pm
Just installed Toto Aquia dual flush - great toilet
I know, I know, a toilet is just a goofy thing to get excited about. We had an old, ancient Kohler, at least 30 years old with a gargantuan flush. It started leaking so I tried to repair it and ended up breaking it when a bolt wouldn't come loose. Anyway, that was a week ago. New toilet is in now. For those of you who have heard they are difficult to install, they really aren't. Took DH and I a total of 2 hours, including a trip to Home Depot and relocating the supply valve which had always been in a bad spot. The actual toilet install probably took 30 minutes. The instructions were good, although they did manage to confuse my DH (I think that's only because of an innate aversion to reading directions). The flush is surprisingly powerful, much better than the old 6-gallon flush toilet we had. This should help with the septic system and electricity too (we are on a private well).
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:25 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:26 pm
I Need Help Picking A Toilet
My family is angry with me. We haven't had a toilet in our newly tiled bathroom since they finished on Tuesday. They want one ASAP. I have been researching the best toilets here and on the web. We all want a good flush. My husband wants one that is comfort height and I want one the cleans easily, especially underneath. I don't know how it happens, but I have 3 males in the house and I find what looks like urine on back, on the sides, and underneath all the time!
Here's where we differ. He wants to pick one up at Home Depot and pay as little as possible. I say the extra features are worth the added cost (I'm the one who cleans them!).
I have narrowed it down to (OK there's a few) these. I would appreciate all of your expert advice! One more thing, I love contemporay things.
The Toto Nexus - This is my favorite. It will cost $497
Here are my seconds.
The Toto Drake - Height and performance only. No easy cleaning - $327
(Both the Toto's I would buy at Homeclick. They are in stock. Good idea?)
The Kohler Cimarron - $200
The American Standard Cadet - $180
Thanks for your help!
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:21 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:21 pm
RE: Do you have a good toilet? (Follow-Up #4)
I beg to differ with your plumber -- California has been using 1.6 gall flush toilets for a decade, and there are many very good ones.
What IS a problem is that low flush toilets can have a difficult time pushing waste through old cast iron pipes. The old pipes were often designed to need those big flushes of water to move the waste out to the city sewer. For instance, in our area, built in the '30's and '40's, it isn't unusual for the sewer pipes coming out of the house to be built running UPHILL. Needless to say, this isn't allowed by code any longer, LOL! Some of our neighbors call the RotoRooter folks every two months. Forget 5-gallon flushes, you'd need the drain output of a filled top load washer to push your "messes" out to the city line in some older homes.
So sometimes we have to take into account that not everyone's house is built with big, level, plastic waste pipes, and even as good as the Totos are -- we have one and it is VERY good indeed -- a poorly designed older house can sabotage even a well made toilet like Toto or Caroma.
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:18 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:21 pm
RE: The Male Equivalent of the Toilet Seat Left Up (Follow-Up #21)
Hilarious thread! Well, as an XX, I can only imagine the issues of round vs elongated bowls for the boys. However, my own pet-peeve is the backsplash, which can be an issue for both sexes. Our current cheap old toilet splashes so much that I often feel like I should shower afterwards... Gross!
Has anyone seen any objective ratings/reviews on how much toilets splash?
<none>clipped on: 09.20.2007 at 12:15 pm last updated on: 09.20.2007 at 12:15 pm
Bill V / other tile experts--re: edging on backsplash
Next project is the backsplash. We're going with a 3/4 inch high stacked tumbled travertine that varies in length up to about 3 or 4 inches (been awhile since I saw the sample). Comes on 12 x 12 inch sheets which mesh together and the horizontal grout lines are very small; tile is a vanilla color.
Initially, the tile guy said he could remove and reverse each end tile at the end of the run where it meets open wall so that the more rounded (tumbled) edge faced outward (instead of the edge being a straight-cut edge) and he could do a bit of work on the straight cut edge to soften it a bit. I hope this makes sense. Today he changed his mind and said he thinks a metal edge ("schluter") would look "more finished." I suspect it's because it's easier for him to use the edging. It's a traditional looking kitchen so the idea of a metal or plastic edge (where tile meets open wall) doesn't appeal to us.
How difficult is it to finish the ends without using the schluter? What's the best way to do this and with what products? Any other thoughts about this are much appreciated too.
Also, I talked to Stone Tech's customer service and was told three possibilities: 1. Use Grout Release before setting the tile then Enhancer Pro after grouting. 2. Use Enhancer Pro before setting then Impregnator Pro after grouting. I want the look of the Enhancer but want it on the grout too as the sample I like was enhanced after grouting so this option seems out. 3. Nothing before setting then Enhancer Pro after grout has cured. Tile guy says he prefers #3 and he's never had a problem getting grout off tile or with staining of tile. Your opinion on that? Grout will be Mapei Ultra Color #13 French Vanilla so it will blend in with the tile for a monochromatic look.
Thanks so much for your expertise.....and welcome back Bill!
<none>clipped on: 09.18.2007 at 10:32 am last updated on: 09.18.2007 at 10:32 am
RE: Please help decide between Diva and Viking Induction (Follow-Up #9)
oskiebabu - do you own a Gaggenau? We're trying to decide between the Gaggenau and the Thermador... And interestingly the Gaggenau costs $100 less than the Thermador.
How do you like the "Twist-Pad" knob control? Any problems with the clicking noise I had heard one person complain about? Any issues with customer service?
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 10:38 pm last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 10:38 pm
Does anyone really use their warming drawers often?
I am planning a new kitchen and am considering purchasing a warming drawer. I would love to know how you feel about yours. How and how often is it used?
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 10:31 pm last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 10:31 pm
Dishwasher Detergent and Products
The Cascade Complete thread has reached its maximum so I created this thread to continue further discussion. I named it Dishwasher Detergent and Products so we can cover all types of detergents plus dishwasher products since that is what we were doing in the other thread anyway.
Sshrivastava - I have Somat rinse aid and usually alternate it with Jet-dry. I don't see any difference between the two either. I do use my water softener but have always just used the Somat salt. On one of my orders from Miele last year I bought some of their salt(well, salt with there name on it- it is made by the same folks that are making their other DW products), but haven't opened the box yet. I still have two more boxes of Somat left. I usually buy 3 boxes at once and this lasts well over a year but I guess you would use more in hard water areas. I don't know of an alternative but in Europe there are several brands of salt made or sold by the makers of DW detergents. Somat, Finish, I guess Claro.
A few years ago there was a size change in the Somat salt. They made the crystals much bigger(it's current size). I was wondering if this would impact my DW but the larger size didn't seem to make any difference except that the regeneration step that occurs before the prewash took longer.
If I remember the Miele salt was .50 to $1.00 more than Somat but the box is holding slightly more product.
Sunday I bought ElectraSol Advanced Dishwasher Powder. I normally buy a large box of regular Cascade and use it to clean my air filters, but today I bought Electrasol powder because it was cheaper than Cascade and seems to work just as well when cleaning filters.
I decided to run some in the DW. This stuff has chlorine bleach in it but I have used it hundreds of times without any problem so figured one time more would not hurt. ElectraSol tabs do not contain chlorine bleachjust this powder.
Then I decided to send Reckitt Benckiser(makers of Electrasol) an email asking them why they use chlorine bleach if it will cause damage to dishwasher components. Reckitt Benckiser also sells Finish in Europe. Can anyone tell us if Finish comes in a powder in Europe and if it contains chlorine bleach?
I just checked the finished load. Everything clean and extremely smooth and shiny. The light was bouncing off of the flatware like crazy. The Miele Rinseaid claims to provide a "brilliant shine" I don't know if that is what is causing this or not but the shine is particularly noticeable on stainless steel.
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 10:09 pm last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 10:09 pm
RE: Does anyone own an.... (Follow-Up #11)
We've hade an Oreck for over 4 years and we love it too! It's light-weight and very easy to maneuver, gets up and down the stairs easily, and is thin enough that it gets under the bed without problems too.
To be honest, it's not the most powerful machine available. And it's not the prettiest. But it works well and is easy to use. I really hate those huge 20+ pound machines with 10 attachments on them. Just the thought of lugging that thing around makes me not feel like vacuuming.
The handheld vac that it came with is a bit too big, rather clunky, and ugly. It works fine, but I think I'd prefer a sleeker smaller machine for a handheld.
The cordless iron it came with (free gift #2) is totally useless. You have to heat it up on the charger, but then once you start to iron, the iron cools like within a minute or two, so you have to put it back on the charger and wait for it to reheat. Every minute or so! Ridiculous! A cordless iron is a lovely idea, but this product is very poorly executed.
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 09:58 pm last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 09:58 pm
RE: Limited electrical wiring in new house... Please help! (Follow-Up #16)
Thanks for all of your help. We're in the process of going to contract on this house, but it may fall through at this point, since the builder is totally uncooperative and has been trying to nickel-and-dime us on every single fixture left in the house. Arrrggghhh! I'm so disappointed!
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 09:27 pm last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 09:27 pm
RE: Please help decide between Diva and Viking Induction (Follow-Up #2)
The Gaggenau 36" can be had both with stainless trim or without, for flush mounting to your cooktop. It is very powerful--looks to be the best model out of the Bosch/Siemens/Thermador group. And it can be gotten at under $2,600----I have even seen it at under $2,500.
With its CI 491/492 36-inch induction cooktop, Gaggenau is pairing the benefits of an extra-wide cooktop with the precision and power of induction. The cooktop accommodates large cookware and contains five flexible cooking zones, with the largest zone in the center, enabling the faster preparation of a diverse range of dishes with minimal energy output
Five cooking zones:
CI491-610 - Stainless Steel Frame
Shipping Weight: 60 lb
The induction cooktops will also be available in two GE Profile models, with choice of black or stainless steel finish starting in September 2007. The 30inch PHP900 model is priced between $1799 and $1999; and the 36inch PHP960 model, from $2299 to $2499.
A very tough decision for me between the GE models and the Gaggenau. The new Siemens model appears to be identical to the Thermador.
<none>clipped on: 09.17.2007 at 11:25 am last updated on: 09.17.2007 at 11:25 am